WOW, I am soooooo farrrrrrr behind the curve. I am embarrassed to look at my work after watching this. Great information. I will be watching your work from now on.
As a tanker, the one thing that I would mention is the track center guides. Where they go into the idler wheel they scrape the paint off, on the inside of the idler guide and the surfaces of the track center guides, which end up being bare polished metal.
Because of you and nightshift i am now on tank #3, military truck #2 ,and a couple of 35th and 1 16th scale figures painted along with a 35th scale diorama in the last month. I am considering bringing them or 1 to a modelers contest or show.Thanks i love this hobby so much now being that it is a break and something fresh away from hectic work!!
Awesome! I have been tinkering with the idea of building a tank and so purchased an Armourfast 1/72 Panzer IV. After this magnificent work I'm going to try everything before attempting a 1/35. Fantastic build, respect from England.
I think the reason you're getting silvering around your decals is because you aren't pressing them onto the surface. To remove the layer of water they are floating on. I usually do this with a cotton bud/q-tip. Using a rolling action you can press the decal onto the surface and absorb the water. Then you're all set to apply micro set/sol and they won't be diluted. Hope this helps.
Again,just emptied spares from RFM Pzkw IV ausJ (£36) alongside the four types\sets of steel return rolllers,four early type cupolas,several ariels and mounts,just noticed 3 types of rear wheel hub that attaches to rear plate spare.To buy all these parts seperate as resin detail parts would cost as much as whole kit.Theres probably more,those are just what i noticed.Top's dragons mkIv 'superkits' in moulded detail.Three wheel welds to scale,cast numbers on several parts.You would probably know the factorys where the different parts where from.
RAL 8000 & RAL 7008 are very similar. RAL 8000 is more towards the Brown spectrum, where RAL 7008 is more towards the Green spectrum. The most used colour was RAL 8020 which is more of a yellowish-grey. Other all I really like your work, well done.
Awesome in-depth review of your techniques and the reasoning behind them, which is just as useful as seeing it all actually done. I don´t know really why, but Panzer IIIs are simply magnificent machines.
I love this build, would like to see more of the oil wet affects around some of the idler arms and the road wheel hubs - perhaps more of the same effect around the Jerry Cans, often fuel is spilled, Jerry can tops and down the sides around the cap area. Also on the block of wood I would like to see some darker stains on the wood, the block of wood on the rear I would like to see some damage to the surface such as dents, gouges and some splintering. A really good tool to use is a carpenters pencil to give you the more polished surface area on the track teeth and pads, and machine gun barrels. Lastly the tow cables are often covered in grime - often shiny in some areas such as the bridle loops from use. Great looking tank'
Great video, thank you. Super helpful suggestion re putting a small piece of paper underneath the tools when you paint them! God I wish I did that over the past twenty years lol.
Outstanding job! I thought that looked like a Dragon kit. I just finished a Dragon Tiger I Initial Production. Had those "magic tracks". About 15% of the links had the guide horns molded as a mirror image of what they should have been. Whew!! That said, I still like Dragon and Tamiya when I need a very accurate representation of a subject. You've got me looking to do a DAK vehicle of some sort. Great techniques with good explanations to go along with them.
Excellent work Evan! This is a great addition to what you showed us in the series with Michael. Love that you went into detail on the painting and weathering of this kit, great example of a DAK tank, well done! 👍
@@Panzermeister36 Happy New Year, Panzermeister! I had a question (need some help :) . The paint set I got for my Panzer IV is AF Vallejo for German Afrika Korps (DAK). I received it as a gift from a friend who knew I was building a DAK tank. They instructed me to first apply the #603 German Panzer Grey. I did, and it looks pretty good as a base coat, I think (I haven't used hair spray yet). But the next color they instruct me to apply is #097 Base Grey. They are saying it's for lightening, "especially in the center of the panels and for details". I found this a little confusing. Are they meaning for it to work as White would? Because if that's the case, why would they want it applied over the whole tank (they picture it that way). I thought the 603 Panzer Grey should be the visible one underneath the desert camo after chipping (as you show in your video here)? Wouldn't the Base Grey #097 negate that? That's my first question. Next, they're saying to apply the #606 German Green Brown (the RAL 8000 you show here). But they say it doesn't have to be applied evenly and some areas can even be left Grey (which would now be their 097 Base Grey). I'm like, "What? Why would they say to leave any 097 Base Grey visible?" That didn't seem like it would be would be historically accurate. Next, they say to use #230 Light as a highlight on the center of the panels & upper parts such as the turret. But my question here is, "Wouldn't they be light enough from the 097 Base Grey underneath by now? I'm wondering if this would be overkill? Then they say (as an OPTION) to use camouflage markings #116 Grey Green (the RAL 7008 you show) over 30% of the tank, like you mentioned. And finally, their Step 6 is the 520 Mat Vanish. So my main question is what would you do at this point? Apply the 097 Base Grey over the whole tank (like they advise) or just in certain places (like White to go over panels, detailed and upper parts)? Do I really even need the 097 Base Grey at ALL? Then (If I did use it) wouldn't I just cover the entire tank with the RAL 8000 Green Brown (as you did) after to not leave ANY of the 097 Base Grey visible (like they say I have the option of doing)? Forgive me for typing so much and if any of this is confusing, let me know and I'll clarify. Because Vallejo really confused me here. Please let me know what you think. And as always, your stuff looks great!! :)
Thanks so much! I came upon this video at the perfect time. I just started building Tamiya's Panzer IV Ausf. G which is a DAK version and you're video has really inspired me on what to do. I didn't know you could use hair spray for instance. Going to try that. Thank you!
Thank you Mark! I had never really done this kind of dust before but I was inspired by how you and Norm use those enamel dust effects and blend it out. So I tried something similar with the AquaLine :)
Hi Panzermeister, nice video... !!! Nice sound and picture / vid quality . Always fun to see your videos and how you explain the techniques.... !!!! Like it a lot... greetings Carsten
Thanks for that reply ! Love your work , particularly your weathering with oils , have a cheap hand held airbrush/compressor and would love to move up to a Patriot 105 set-up , maybe Santa ! Thanks again Ed
Iwata revolution + AS18 on the way . ? Why do you dilute acrylics 60/40 ? Is it necessary for the colour or the airbrush ! I'm using Vallejo Model air straight out of the bottle ! Best Edward
Very good tutorial and outstanding result. Thank you. Thanks mate for the share in your community tab, you did send about 1500 views over and 150 new subscribers - shot me right through the 1000 milestone xD You realy brightend up my last days with this : ) After watching this, I'll crack open a bronco stug D : )
I am glad to hear that! I think the high quality of your video production and models, plus how well you explain stuff in the videos, really deserved more viewers :) I'll look forward to a StuG III :) the Bronco StuG kits go together very well...other Bronco kits can be overly complicated, but not the StuG.
It's definitely easier to use oil/enamel washes. But if you really want to use acrylic washes, wet the surface before you apply the wash. While it's still wet you can clean the overspill with a dry brush and repeat. Streaking with acrylic can be done the same way.
I found the new AK Real Colors do not work with the Tamiya X-20A Acrylic Thinner; however when thinned with the standard Tamiya Lacquer Thinner, chipping can still de done.
I find that tracks are often mis-painted as German tracks were painted black or grey in the factory and wherever the vehicle is used the tracks pick up the terrain color. You would never normally see rust on dirty tracks. On American tracks, yes you may see rust as the tracks were not painted.
Just wanted to say that if anyone would like to use acrylics for weathering, you easily can and even re activate them with water, just make sure to put hand soap into the mix. For example a wash of 7 parts water, 2 parts paint and 2 parts of hand soap, and the wash can re activated , just like enamels.
...I love your tank painting tutorials, I learn a lot...thanks for posting!!! I have to correct you on one thing...it is NOT a "DAK" tank...it is a D. A. K. (DEUTCHES AFRIKA KORPS) tank. You don't say DAK as in the Dallas Cowboys' Quarterbacks name, you have to pronounce the D. A. K. individually; I am an Honorary D.A.K. member of the Schweinfurt, Germany Chapter; Verband die Deutches Afrika Korps from back in the 1980's. (U.S. ARMY NCO RETIRED/DRILL SGT./BRADLEY MASTER GUNNER) Just trying to help...
It's nice work as usual. I'm so happy, because I watched your painting from start to the end. Probably, I know what you had done and wanted to do. So, I got a lot. Thanks Panzermeistar36 and I'm looking forward to the next. Regards, : )
I picked up archers peelable transfer film DAK decals there amazing! See the palm tree one on the front it looks amazing! My friend owns the shop next to my house so he got a shed load of archers fine transfers n decals in as a job lot from a company down south! Just aswell with poor archers fine transfers are going out of business! This was actually sad ,,to hear! I'm away to start building the Ausf N from a J the new Dragon re release first edition with fighting compartment interior etc
i love your videos, they are really inspiring! You have that perfect kind of sedateness in your videos which really gives me the feeling "I can do that, too!" :) Right now, i am building a Pz.KpfW III following this video. Is there any substitute for the "Aqua Line dry earth"? Can i maybe use some other branded similiar earth-effects, or does something special doing the magic in the one from Aqua Line?
I build WW2 armor in two modes. One it's going to be handled a LOT playing Bolt Action or Tank Platoon an the other are dioramas normally built to commemorate Grandfather doing his bit in the war. On the later occasions I have the luck of having a source photo(s). For the first, I try to make them look good with realization that they're effectively toys.
Excellent! Very much looking forward to going through this full video once or twice or 10 times when I finally get around to my DAK builds. (Alongside your original DAK Panzer I video as well!)
That looks like an awesome kit..and I am looking for one for an Afrika Corps Diorama...I did a great European diorama for the same Panzer...but plz let me know your thoughts,,,on this Dragon kit...it looks great...thank you so much...
Heyyy, would you maybe do a video about brushes at some point? Which sizes you tend to use for what, what kind of make like sable or otherwise and which type to look for for particular tasks (like dry brushing, or pinwashing). Also, yours always seem in good condition so is there anything you do to preserve them and keep their tip etc?
One can put enamel or oil effects on top of other enamel or oils effects and not fear what you’ve done already being damaged if you give them enough time to fully dry before applying more. That could mean waiting an entire 24 hours, especially for oil paint.
Another awesome episode. Can't wait to test these techniques out on a DAK vehicle of my own. Thank you! At some point, would you consider building a late war vehicle in tri-color? Maybe a Panther G, Pz.IV Ausf. J, etc?
At 23:34 The stuff is accumulating in droplets. Would using "wet water" (water with a very small amount of dishwashing liquid in it) instead of regular water make a difference here? Seems like your fighting the water's surface tension.
Hi Mr P. Loving your videos helping me get back into hobby. Yes I’m not finding much choice in oil paint thinners local to me. Do you know of Mr Colour thinner? It’s 100% Organic solvent. Is that any good for thinning oil weathering? Cheers , Dave.
I really enjoyed and learned a lot from your weathering tutorials - thank you! Q: Where do you get your Wilder products from? None of my local hobby shops carry them. Peace.
I got my Wilder products from Wilder itself. But they're very hard to find nowadays. AK interactive has equivalent products that I would recommend in place of Wilder's.
One particular detail I love is the Continental embossed on the rubber of the wheels. At what point did Dragon start including that? And are there any other companies that reflect such detail?
How do you get wilder products it seems like most of the stuff is sold out they don't have the thinner the aqualine or grease. Do they restock or is it usually one run and done the website doesn't seem to have been updated in awhile
Wilder has been unable to ship because of covid. They are bottled in Russia I believe so it's something to do with that. That's all I know though, sorry.
Bad news on the Tresemme HS - they've changed the formula - Unilever's been sued in a class action for adding a Carcinogen Benzene to their hair products - All the old product has been pulled - I've used the new stuff and it is definitely not the same.
Hairspray question: does it not weaken the adhesion of everything applied over it, making all the subsequent work fragile and prone to moisture damage? Does the hairspray ever 'cure' or is it liable to dissolved by water for ever more?
The top layer of paint applied over the hairspray will eventually fully cure (assuming you are using a good quality paint and not Vallejo). That's why it's important to chip the model within a few hours; it gets hard to chip while the paint cures. Eventually it will fully cure -- 24 hours later and I'll be applying a varnish and wash over the model.
Another new question is I'm using the AK paints you suggest but when I try and thin them with the x20a like you suggest they just seem to clump and not thin since they are lacquer based. I don't understand how your not getting a clumpy mess
AK Real Colors were originally a lacquer-acrylic hybrid paint, like Tamiya, so you could thin them with water or X-20A (butyl alcohol) or lacquer thinner. About a year ago, AK changed their formula without announcing this to anyone, so now the Real Colors are pure lacquers and only work with lacquer thinner. I have some AK RC paints from before (as I used in this video at the time) and I've also bought more since and it's impossible to tell which type you have by the bottle. Sometimes you can still end up with the old ones if stores have old enough stock.
Hi Panzermeister, I would like to use acrylic AK paints for my Dak. panzer two. What colors/number would you recommend for base and camouflage. Thanks for your great videos! 🇺🇸
Sorry I'm not super familiar with the AK acrylic range. I really only use those for brush painting. The AK Real Color line is what I use for painting camouflage.
Nice and good explained. But are the color not to dark and not yellow enough for Africa Corps? Default dunkelgelb is the color I read? Another question how ti coose right primer color? If I use a dark one like black the lighter color like yellow become darker?
No, Dunkelgelb is not the North Afrika theatre colour. That would be RAL7028; instead this is RAL8000 and 7027 for camouflage. I generally use a red primer colour on my models now as it gives a nice warmth to the colours applied on top.
Love your tutorials. I've heard that applying varnish after everything is done is a no-no as it ruins the weathering effects, pigments and oils. Is this true? How would I protect a model I use for wargaming?
Yeah, i have also heard it melts the pigments. I would suggest not weathering the wargaming kits all that much. Try to use mostly acrylic effects since they are okay to touch. I think it is okay to varnish after enamel washes, filters or oil dots. People use wilder acrylic effects but i cannot give any suggestions about them since they arent avaible here in turkey.
These tutorials are the best. The amount of detailed explanation is just fantastic. Keep up the great work!
Thank you!
WOW, I am soooooo farrrrrrr behind the curve. I am embarrassed to look at my work after watching this. Great information. I will be watching your work from now on.
As a tanker, the one thing that I would mention is the track center guides. Where they go into the idler wheel they scrape the paint off, on the inside of the idler guide and the surfaces of the track center guides, which end up being bare polished metal.
Good Job. You taught me a lot of techniques and what colors I need to use on my R/C tanks. Thank You.
Very nice tutorial. I' m building my first tank, normaly i build aircraft. This helps me a lot. Great stuff.
Glad I could help!
Because of you and nightshift i am now on tank #3, military truck #2 ,and a couple of 35th and 1 16th scale figures painted along with a 35th scale diorama in the last month. I am considering bringing them or 1 to a modelers contest or show.Thanks i love this hobby so much now being that it is a break and something fresh away from hectic work!!
Really incredible attention to detail - thanks.
Awesome! I have been tinkering with the idea of building a tank and so purchased an Armourfast 1/72 Panzer IV. After this magnificent work I'm going to try everything before attempting a 1/35. Fantastic build, respect from England.
Currently working on two DAK MkIII’s and will be applying your tips and tricks to them both. Thanks for the detailed lessons!
Glad it was helpful!
Outstanding work
Man...you and nightshift are absolutely amazing and my favorite channels now.. beautiful work!
“My friends”
You should check plasmo too than...
back in the day, we called this superdetailing... Now, for many modelers its routine.
The white colour treatment on the wheels rubber is a great tip ! Bravo !
Thank you!
Great build report / “tutorial”; very nice and interesting oral presentation. 👍
Thank you!
Excellent.
That came out Excellent !!
Very nice work!
Thanks for sharing knowledge.
Outstanding video tutorial and outcome!! I can't wait to do this tank with these weathering effects.
Brilliant Video. I’ll be using these techniques for my DAK Armour 👍
*WONDERFUL! Step by step the tank becomes more and more realistic! 😍*
Thank you!
L'un des plus beaux tank Afrika Korps que j'ai vu...!
Je vais faire prochainement mon Tiger exactement de cette manière là, merci et Bravo !
The dynamic-looking finished product is a joy to watch as the development and weathering process moves along.
Why the F did I not comment on this when you did it? Its great, im rewatching it now.
Enjoy 😊
Thanks for sharing your great tips, this is perfect for the Pz. IV I am about to build.
Best vid ever … love your tank man it’s surpreme
Superb video... Really captured the look of sand scoured and sun beaten tanks.
Thank you Paul!
What I dig about this camo pattern is its subtlety.
Great Video!
Maybe it helps to add a little bit of dish soap to the acrylic dust fx, to break the surface tension when airbrushing. Just a thought.
Great Africa Korps Panzerkampfwagen III , excelent painting and weathering , it's looking so realistic !👍🏆🥇
I think the reason you're getting silvering around your decals is because you aren't pressing them onto the surface. To remove the layer of water they are floating on. I usually do this with a cotton bud/q-tip. Using a rolling action you can press the decal onto the surface and absorb the water. Then you're all set to apply micro set/sol and they won't be diluted.
Hope this helps.
Definitely one of the best builds for panzer 3s I've seen on here!
Awesome stuff man! My favorite is the dust effects
Again,just emptied spares from RFM Pzkw IV ausJ (£36) alongside the four types\sets of steel return rolllers,four early type cupolas,several ariels and mounts,just noticed 3 types of rear wheel hub that attaches to rear plate spare.To buy all these parts seperate as resin detail parts would cost as much as whole kit.Theres probably more,those are just what i noticed.Top's dragons mkIv 'superkits' in moulded detail.Three wheel welds to scale,cast numbers on several parts.You would probably know the factorys where the different parts where from.
RAL 8000 & RAL 7008 are very similar. RAL 8000 is more towards the Brown spectrum, where RAL 7008 is more towards the Green spectrum. The most used colour was RAL 8020 which is more of a yellowish-grey. Other all I really like your work, well done.
I'd say the 8020 is bit pinkish or orange. It was supposed to match the local sand tone better.
Awesome in-depth review of your techniques and the reasoning behind them, which is just as useful as seeing it all actually done. I don´t know really why, but Panzer IIIs are simply magnificent machines.
Absolute perfection, thanks for the presentation. A true tank worthy of DAK lore!
I love this build, would like to see more of the oil wet affects around some of the idler arms and the road wheel hubs - perhaps more of the same effect around the Jerry Cans, often fuel is spilled, Jerry can tops and down the sides around the cap area. Also on the block of wood I would like to see some darker stains on the wood, the block of wood on the rear I would like to see some damage to the surface such as dents, gouges and some splintering. A really good tool to use is a carpenters pencil to give you the more polished surface area on the track teeth and pads, and machine gun barrels. Lastly the tow cables are often covered in grime - often shiny in some areas such as the bridle loops from use. Great looking tank'
Great video, thank you. Super helpful suggestion re putting a small piece of paper underneath the tools when you paint them! God I wish I did that over the past twenty years lol.
Looking forward to watching this after work. Fantastic.
Thank you Stevie! I hope you enjoyed :)
@@Panzermeister36 I always enjoy your videos, pal. I don't really watch many others.
Great video, thank you.
Nicely done though. That bit about the "dusting" I must have missed as I have followed Nightshift for around two years now.
It was from an article he wrote before he started his UA-cam channel. It was on the Wilder website as a guide when the Aqualine first came out.
Outstanding job! I thought that looked like a Dragon kit. I just finished a Dragon Tiger I Initial Production. Had those "magic tracks". About 15% of the links had the guide horns molded as a mirror image of what they should have been. Whew!! That said, I still like Dragon and Tamiya when I need a very accurate representation of a subject. You've got me looking to do a DAK vehicle of some sort. Great techniques with good explanations to go along with them.
Much agreed Stephen
Wow, thanks for sharing, excellent job!
Excellent work Evan! This is a great addition to what you showed us in the series with Michael. Love that you went into detail on the painting and weathering of this kit, great example of a DAK tank, well done! 👍
Thank you Jerry :) I'm glad you have enjoyed our series.
@@Panzermeister36 Happy New Year, Panzermeister! I had a question (need some help :) . The paint set I got for my Panzer IV is AF Vallejo for German Afrika Korps (DAK). I received it as a gift from a friend who knew I was building a DAK tank. They instructed me to first apply the #603 German Panzer Grey. I did, and it looks pretty good as a base coat, I think (I haven't used hair spray yet).
But the next color they instruct me to apply is #097 Base Grey. They are saying it's for lightening, "especially in the center of the panels and for details". I found this a little confusing. Are they meaning for it to work as White would? Because if that's the case, why would they want it applied over the whole tank (they picture it that way). I thought the 603 Panzer Grey should be the visible one underneath the desert camo after chipping (as you show in your video here)? Wouldn't the Base Grey #097 negate that? That's my first question.
Next, they're saying to apply the #606 German Green Brown (the RAL 8000 you show here). But they say it doesn't have to be applied evenly and some areas can even be left Grey (which would now be their 097 Base Grey). I'm like, "What? Why would they say to leave any 097 Base Grey visible?" That didn't seem like it would be would be historically accurate. Next, they say to use #230 Light as a highlight on the center of the panels & upper parts such as the turret. But my question here is, "Wouldn't they be light enough from the 097 Base Grey underneath by now? I'm wondering if this would be overkill? Then they say (as an OPTION) to use camouflage markings #116 Grey Green (the RAL 7008 you show) over 30% of the tank, like you mentioned. And finally, their Step 6 is the 520 Mat Vanish.
So my main question is what would you do at this point? Apply the 097 Base Grey over the whole tank (like they advise) or just in certain places (like White to go over panels, detailed and upper parts)? Do I really even need the 097 Base Grey at ALL? Then (If I did use it) wouldn't I just cover the entire tank with the RAL 8000 Green Brown (as you did) after to not leave ANY of the 097 Base Grey visible (like they say I have the option of doing)?
Forgive me for typing so much and if any of this is confusing, let me know and I'll clarify. Because Vallejo really confused me here. Please let me know what you think. And as always, your stuff looks great!! :)
Wow! Such great timing! I have two DAK Pz IIIs that are just about finished. This video will be quite helpful.
Thanks so much! I came upon this video at the perfect time. I just started building Tamiya's Panzer IV Ausf. G which is a DAK version and you're video has really inspired me on what to do. I didn't know you could use hair spray for instance. Going to try that. Thank you!
Interesting video again and very helpful. Thanks
I just finished building the same kit and this surely will help me.
Great work again really helping me with my projects you make it look so easy
FANTASTIC!
Tank looks great, I really learn a lot watching your videos.
Really impressive dust techniques. Need to source some of that product and give it a go myself. Great tutorial
Thank you Mark! I had never really done this kind of dust before but I was inspired by how you and Norm use those enamel dust effects and blend it out. So I tried something similar with the AquaLine :)
Great job as usual, thumbs up. The only thing is the North Africa dust has a specific colour, different than european dust you used on Pz.III.
Impressive work. Greetings from Ukraine.
Thank you! Greetings from Canada.
Hi Panzermeister, nice video... !!! Nice sound and picture / vid quality . Always fun to see your videos and how you explain the techniques.... !!!! Like it a lot... greetings Carsten
Thank you Carsten. I've been a big fan of your videos too!
Thanks for that reply !
Love your work , particularly your weathering with oils , have a cheap hand held airbrush/compressor and would love to move up to a Patriot 105 set-up , maybe Santa !
Thanks again
Ed
Iwata revolution + AS18 on the way .
? Why do you dilute acrylics 60/40 ?
Is it necessary for the colour or the airbrush !
I'm using Vallejo Model air straight out of the bottle !
Best Edward
Very good tutorial and outstanding result. Thank you. Thanks mate for the share in your community tab, you did send about 1500 views over and 150 new subscribers - shot me right through the 1000 milestone xD You realy brightend up my last days with this : ) After watching this, I'll crack open a bronco stug D : )
I am glad to hear that! I think the high quality of your video production and models, plus how well you explain stuff in the videos, really deserved more viewers :) I'll look forward to a StuG III :) the Bronco StuG kits go together very well...other Bronco kits can be overly complicated, but not the StuG.
It's definitely easier to use oil/enamel washes. But if you really want to use acrylic washes, wet the surface before you apply the wash. While it's still wet you can clean the overspill with a dry brush and repeat. Streaking with acrylic can be done the same way.
Outstanding job! Really nice touch! Your videos are top!
I found the new AK Real Colors do not work with the Tamiya X-20A Acrylic Thinner; however when thinned with the standard Tamiya Lacquer Thinner, chipping can still de done.
They work with IPA in case there's no laquer thinner around.
I find that tracks are often mis-painted as German tracks were painted black or grey in the factory and wherever the vehicle is used the tracks pick up the terrain color. You would never normally see rust on dirty tracks. On American tracks, yes you may see rust as the tracks were not painted.
The German track primer is a dark gray-brown colour. Essentially the XF-72/-69 mix I use now.
Tamiya “Gloss” is pretty disappointing. I like Future, but I’m pretty old school. I admire your skills!😁
Just wanted to say that if anyone would like to use acrylics for weathering, you easily can and even re activate them with water, just make sure to put hand soap into the mix. For example a wash of 7 parts water, 2 parts paint and 2 parts of hand soap, and the wash can re activated , just like enamels.
Another great video! Very informative and your model looks awesome. Well done!
...I love your tank painting tutorials, I learn a lot...thanks for posting!!! I have to correct you on one thing...it is NOT a "DAK" tank...it is a D. A. K. (DEUTCHES AFRIKA KORPS) tank. You don't say DAK as in the Dallas Cowboys' Quarterbacks name, you have to pronounce the D. A. K. individually; I am an Honorary D.A.K. member of the Schweinfurt, Germany Chapter; Verband die Deutches Afrika Korps from back in the 1980's. (U.S. ARMY NCO RETIRED/DRILL SGT./BRADLEY MASTER GUNNER) Just trying to help...
It's nice work as usual. I'm so happy, because I watched your painting from start to the end. Probably, I know what you had done and
wanted to do. So, I got a lot. Thanks Panzermeistar36 and I'm looking forward to the next. Regards, : )
Thank you again for the supportive comments. Your messages on my videos always brighten my day!
Another great video my friend!
It looks incredible. "Saludos" from Spain
Thank you! Greetings from Canada.
I picked up archers peelable transfer film DAK decals there amazing! See the palm tree one on the front it looks amazing! My friend owns the shop next to my house so he got a shed load of archers fine transfers n decals in as a job lot from a company down south! Just aswell with poor archers fine transfers are going out of business! This was actually sad ,,to hear! I'm away to start building the Ausf N from a J the new Dragon re release first edition with fighting compartment interior etc
i love your videos, they are really inspiring! You have that perfect kind of sedateness in your videos which really gives me the feeling "I can do that, too!" :)
Right now, i am building a Pz.KpfW III following this video. Is there any substitute for the "Aqua Line dry earth"? Can i maybe use some other branded similiar earth-effects, or does something special doing the magic in the one from Aqua Line?
Thank you 🙂 The Aqualine are water based, but you can get the same effect with enamel-based dust effects from AK or Mig AMMO.
I build WW2 armor in two modes. One it's going to be handled a LOT playing Bolt Action or Tank Platoon an the other are dioramas normally built to commemorate Grandfather doing his bit in the war. On the later occasions I have the luck of having a source photo(s).
For the first, I try to make them look good with realization that they're effectively toys.
Excellent! Very much looking forward to going through this full video once or twice or 10 times when I finally get around to my DAK builds. (Alongside your original DAK Panzer I video as well!)
Thank you Chris! DAK stuff is always an interesting subject :)
Nice work!
That looks like an awesome kit..and I am looking for one for an Afrika Corps Diorama...I did a great European diorama for the same Panzer...but plz let me know your thoughts,,,on this Dragon kit...it looks great...thank you so much...
Heyyy, would you maybe do a video about brushes at some point? Which sizes you tend to use for what, what kind of make like sable or otherwise and which type to look for for particular tasks (like dry brushing, or pinwashing). Also, yours always seem in good condition so is there anything you do to preserve them and keep their tip etc?
One can put enamel or oil effects on top of other enamel or oils effects and not fear what you’ve done already being damaged if you give them enough time to fully dry before applying more. That could mean waiting an entire 24 hours, especially for oil paint.
Yeah, but waiting 24-48 hours....I'm a busy guy. I prefer waiting 15 minutes :)
Another awesome episode. Can't wait to test these techniques out on a DAK vehicle of my own. Thank you!
At some point, would you consider building a late war vehicle in tri-color? Maybe a Panther G, Pz.IV Ausf. J, etc?
Later-war three-colour factory camo is a good idea! I'll see what I can set up for that.
Meant to say what I DIG about that camo pattern!
Great work!!!! Say how do I make a tarp for my tanks and or a air recognition flag? And what color in Tamiya could I use as the camo color?
I love your work, need to up the sound volume.
Nice job! I have a question... did you fix the pigments or add any varnish coat at the end?
I rust the mufflers on my tanks starting with Testors Rubber and then dry brush with AK dry brush rust.
At 23:34 The stuff is accumulating in droplets. Would using "wet water" (water with a very small amount of dishwashing liquid in it) instead of regular water make a difference here? Seems like your fighting the water's surface tension.
Hi Mr P. Loving your videos helping me get back into hobby. Yes I’m not finding much choice in oil paint thinners local to me. Do you know of Mr Colour thinner? It’s 100% Organic solvent. Is that any good for thinning oil weathering?
Cheers , Dave.
I really enjoyed and learned a lot from your weathering tutorials - thank you! Q: Where do you get your Wilder products from? None of my local hobby shops carry them. Peace.
I got my Wilder products from Wilder itself. But they're very hard to find nowadays. AK interactive has equivalent products that I would recommend in place of Wilder's.
One particular detail I love is the Continental embossed on the rubber of the wheels. At what point did Dragon start including that? And are there any other companies that reflect such detail?
WoW thats a great vidéo…..i dont hâve an air brush…. Can i do thé same thing as you if i use spray can paint ?
How do you get wilder products it seems like most of the stuff is sold out they don't have the thinner the aqualine or grease. Do they restock or is it usually one run and done the website doesn't seem to have been updated in awhile
Yeah I've noticed the same thing, his website sucks when it comes to being instock and I can't find anyone that has wilder products in stock
Wilder has been unable to ship because of covid. They are bottled in Russia I believe so it's something to do with that. That's all I know though, sorry.
Bad news on the Tresemme HS - they've changed the formula - Unilever's been sued in a class action for adding a Carcinogen Benzene to their hair products - All the old product has been pulled - I've used the new stuff and it is definitely not the same.
Hairspray question: does it not weaken the adhesion of everything applied over it, making all the subsequent work fragile and prone to moisture damage? Does the hairspray ever 'cure' or is it liable to dissolved by water for ever more?
The top layer of paint applied over the hairspray will eventually fully cure (assuming you are using a good quality paint and not Vallejo). That's why it's important to chip the model within a few hours; it gets hard to chip while the paint cures. Eventually it will fully cure -- 24 hours later and I'll be applying a varnish and wash over the model.
Another new question is I'm using the AK paints you suggest but when I try and thin them with the x20a like you suggest they just seem to clump and not thin since they are lacquer based. I don't understand how your not getting a clumpy mess
AK Real Colors were originally a lacquer-acrylic hybrid paint, like Tamiya, so you could thin them with water or X-20A (butyl alcohol) or lacquer thinner. About a year ago, AK changed their formula without announcing this to anyone, so now the Real Colors are pure lacquers and only work with lacquer thinner. I have some AK RC paints from before (as I used in this video at the time) and I've also bought more since and it's impossible to tell which type you have by the bottle. Sometimes you can still end up with the old ones if stores have old enough stock.
Hi Panzermeister, I would like to use acrylic AK paints for my Dak. panzer two. What colors/number would you recommend for base and camouflage. Thanks for your great videos! 🇺🇸
Sorry I'm not super familiar with the AK acrylic range. I really only use those for brush painting. The AK Real Color line is what I use for painting camouflage.
roll a cotton bud on decals it takes away excess water
Usually it leaves some fuzz though. At least the ones I can get here.
Nice and good explained. But are the color not to dark and not yellow enough for Africa Corps? Default dunkelgelb is the color I read?
Another question how ti coose right primer color? If I use a dark one like black the lighter color like yellow become darker?
No, Dunkelgelb is not the North Afrika theatre colour. That would be RAL7028; instead this is RAL8000 and 7027 for camouflage.
I generally use a red primer colour on my models now as it gives a nice warmth to the colours applied on top.
U said at end u didnt have to use oil paints, but earlier ur pin washing was the most important wethering
Because you can use enamel paints and other methods to achieve the pin wash.
Panzer 1 is soooo cute when panzer 3 is beside it...
Love your tutorials. I've heard that applying varnish after everything is done is a no-no as it ruins the weathering effects, pigments and oils. Is this true? How would I protect a model I use for wargaming?
Yeah, i have also heard it melts the pigments. I would suggest not weathering the wargaming kits all that much. Try to use mostly acrylic effects since they are okay to touch. I think it is okay to varnish after enamel washes, filters or oil dots. People use wilder acrylic effects but i cannot give any suggestions about them since they arent avaible here in turkey.
Woww
Bro you skills are phenomenal. Wish I was as good as you!!!! Also can you say how you do the stripes on the jerry cans?
Thank you! I just brush painted those white :)
Panzermeister36 ok they look great. I always seem to have a hard time with that. Ty