The fact that I showed up 10 minutes after it was posted and there are already 75+ views on it really shows how far your channel has come. Looking forward to this!
Great tutorial. I am getting close to painting my first British SSC 15 (Sherman Firefly) so this will be invaluable... plus I struggle with dusty stuff so your 4 product running gear will be tried
Great tutorial my friend. Especially, I learned a lot from your brushing technique. Thank you for sharing. Have a nice week end and stay safe carefully. Best wishes, NOB
Your tutorials are very helpful for a beginner like me. I call myself a beginner as I had been away from this hobby for many years. Thanks for these great videos!
I tried out some of your tips on my custom built Sherman Tulip. Not finished yet though, and I must say your tutorial helped a lot. Thanks for your Knowledge.
Very useful. As I've probably mentioned before ...I have a block on weathering green vehicles when compared to my relative comfort weathering desert subjects. Always looking for good tutorials like this. Thanks Evan
Turned out very nice. I made the "sister" kit, the M10 Wolverine few months ago and I used exactly the same tracks. Mine was painted with propper US olive drab from AK RC range and I was very pleased with the effect. Those paints are just great. Good luck with the show.
I really like your approach to painting and weathering. Lighting the base colour successively looks far better and more realisitc than Spanish colour modulation which always looks cartoonish to me. Thanks for the tip regarding the VMS metal primer. I ordered it while pausing your video.
the kit came out great. my own DARK Achilles is more of the darkish bronze green beloved of the British army for much of the era. there's also so much discussion on subjects as tanks were supplied in standard olive drab for much of ww2 - 2 main types, one slightly more brownish and the other greenish and you have a lot of local factors .. the colour photographs from era are not also so helpful either - remember the Bovington Museum had their Matilda in BLUE for many years due to a mis-coloured photo of one in the desert.. :) glad kit came out so well..
Nice and well explained tutorial mate :) Cool to see the methodes and techniques you use , very interesting to watch . Keep on the good work and model on mate :)
Great finish and the video is great as well , I remember people losing their shit over glossing before decals and I see alot of modellers going back to a semi-gloss or gloss before decals. Interesting.
Great finish, welcome to the delights of SCC15 ;) It’s 7th A/Tk Regt RCA isn’t it? I do like those decals - perfect fit too, unlike the ones in my kit (ended up making my own). Shading/weathering looks superb, so definitely gonna refer back on this for tips as can never get weathering right.
@@Panzermeister36 if you lean more toward acrylic, they have a 4BO as well. Funny enough I’m building a JS-2 alongside the Nightshift series and I found it sprayed a nice warm green without much need to add buff or sky to lighten it. I did de-saturate and modulate with those shades as well as Ammo shaders on the panel joins but I’ll say it sprayed great out of the bottle with some X-22 added.
Look great mate! Same with me on the decals the only silvering of any kind I've ever had was on the meng Rolce Royce I had to scrape them all off n get better ones they looked like a mirror the massive RNAS on the side I'm.jusy doing the takom 1.16 jeep and andys 1.16 sherman and my god the decals are bad!
Thanks Charlie. I believe the Andy's Hobby HQ Sherman is also engineered by Takom, and Takom's decals are always really thick and hard to use. Good luck with those big 1:16 scale projects!
I was considering doing some fuel spill effects but I didn't have a ton of time to finish this one, so I just focused some extra dark wash in those areas. And, fuel streaks down the hull sides would not have been visible due to the grouser racks and stowage. On my next Sherman project though, I will explore that more :)
*A lot of products but the result is amazing, maybe some dust on the front and side tracks will give another point of realism ... but whatever your M-10 is wonderful!*
Another great VLOG, full of excellent advice and techniques. Thanks. I never have the courage to mix paint brands. Any advice on that? One small detail I noticed. The 'rope' you used to tie off the stowage, is in scale. Far too many modelers use twine that would be three inches thick, in 1/35.
I do not varnish at the very end as it will affect the pigments. Rather, I apply the matte varnish after all the oil streaking and dust on the vehicle is done...then I add the pigments and mud on the lower hull. It won't get worn off as I don't handle the model from the hull.
Awesome work! An Achilles and now on my to do list! Seriously this is awesome! I do wonder, was there a seam between the turret halves after painting on the inside?
It’s a damn shame that The Quartermasters Depot went out of business. The range of subjects was fantastic. Personally, I’m tired of US based subjects, when the Allies had many more other interesting members. Trying to make a few Canuck and Brit examples from the Italian Campaign and it’s slim pickings. Thankfully there are Polish and French options, plus a few Kiwi and Saffer units, but not widely available. If anyone knows where to replicate the Canadian and/or Commonwealth vehicle formation and tac sign offering that the QMD used to offer, please let me know.
@@Panzermeister36 I ended up buying parchment paper and I used small and expensive Ziploc dishes but you could also use a container you get from the Chinese food place or any place for takeout and then you can put a sponge in there. It really works well and it keeps your paint from drying out..
Hello! I noticed that you added varnish after weathering? I have understood that after weathering it is not worth varnishing the model, because the effects disappear? Great Achilles anyway, the color and details are amazing, great job 👍
Varnish will only make pigments disappear. Notice that I applied it only on the top of the vehicle. I want to protect the oil weathering effects and make the surface of the model matte rather than glossy.
Hey sorry late to the party but I hadn't had a question when i watched it the first time. First off amazing job as always 👏 Anyway love the m10 family of tanks always wanted to build the earliest version of it with the VERY small counter wights on the rear or the turret. So yeah do you have any info on said wights? I'm really looking for the sizes of them. I can scratch build them but without the dimensions I could mess it up. Anyway thanks for any help. Again as always fantastic artistry.
Hi, very impressive technics for the weathering....I'm just finishing my first AFV - the HB Commando V150 - nice kit for starters! I just wondered if you finished all your tanks in clear matt?...I used the semi-gloss clear for sealing prior to weathering but having coated the V150 with clear matt, it now looks a bit dull!
What are your thoughts on using Pledge or Quick Shine floor polish for clear and gloss coats? If anyone uses those often, can they be used as a varnish?
My thoughts are they are unreliable products for a varnish. They can occasionally give poor surface finishes or not properly protect underlying paints. It's best to use a proper modelling varnish...it's only a couple dollars more, and you're not risking ruining the model.
I very carefully applied a very small amount of cement along that seam in the rear centre of the turret. I didn't apply a lot as I didn't want it to flow out along details or anything.
How is the durability of dust paint mixed with a dust pigment? I am not a fan of pigments, because they are not as durable as oils and I don't like to work with pigment fixers
It's quite good, but I don't risk touching the running gear afterwards. I only handle the model from the upper surfaces and there I did dust with oils so it's very durable.
If you're looking for markings from this sheet, I can send you some. The sheet has a ton of spares...can probably do a dozen individual vehicles with it.
@@Panzermeister36 That would be great. I am working on a Canadian 4th Armoured Division Sherman V and the decals are not great. I made my own with the yellow maple leaf over a green background but not totally happy with it.
Because when you look at high-resolution, close-up photos of vehicles from the war, they look like this. You don't see much chipping in most photos as they are taken from too far away and they're not a high enough resolution to pick up detail. If you can find close shots of crewmen in hatches, you will notice the wear. Maybe I will include some of these photos in my next video.
There are plenty of photos of what primer looked like for allied vehicles. Red oxide and grey automotive primers were used. Sheet metal was enameled black. Etc.
They are very similar since SSC15 was meant to be essentially a copy of US OD but using pigments and chemicals that the British had on hand. SSC15 is a little more green in some photos, but very similar.
You screwed up from get go. All interiors on US supplied vehicles should be semi-gloss white at 1:1 scale. If you doubt me go get a copy of Zenith presses M4 Sherman by Pat Ware. Pics.
We truly live in the future when our models can disassemble themselves. Now we need to invent models that assemble themselves!
Hey Martin! Well we can 3D Print models that are nearly already assembled now can't we? ;)
You want to invent Tamiya again?
hi Nightshift =D
The fact that I showed up 10 minutes after it was posted and there are already 75+ views on it really shows how far your channel has come. Looking forward to this!
Thank you Tim!
i am watching these a little out of order. Very helpful.
Fantastic! I'm new to the whole thing apart from some Airfix as a boy. I've got the same M10 IIC and can't wait to make it.
Having seen the model in person it’s great to have a chance to see how you painted and weathered it. Simple weathering process, but really effective!
Thank you Bruce!
So many great things to comment on but one thing that got my attention was how realistic the mud in the track links looks.
Thanks for this!
Amazing job my friend, as always
Thank you!
I’ve been waiting for this video the entire week, finally I can work on my m10 Achilles. Amazing work man
Thank you! I hope it was worth the wait :)
wow, this looks really good! thanks for sharing
My pleasure 😊
brilliant instructional video, preparing for my first build in over 40 yrs, very helpful, many thanks.
.
Great tutorial. I am getting close to painting my first British SSC 15 (Sherman Firefly) so this will be invaluable... plus I struggle with dusty stuff so your 4 product running gear will be tried
Great tutorial my friend. Especially, I learned a lot from your brushing technique. Thank you for sharing.
Have a nice week end and stay safe carefully. Best wishes, NOB
Thank you! Cheers!
Your tutorials are very helpful for a beginner like me.
I call myself a beginner as I had been away from this hobby for many years.
Thanks for these great videos!
Thank you! I am glad my videos help you out :)
I tried out some of your tips on my custom built Sherman Tulip. Not finished yet though, and I must say your tutorial helped a lot. Thanks for your Knowledge.
Gorgeous weathering Ev! Really beautiful and eye catching!
Hello Shane! Thank you :) Hope you're doing well.
Love watching your builds and painting / weathering 👍🏻🇦🇺
Stunning work as always mate, your approach was pretty straightforward and simple actually, yet the result is incredible! I like that a lot.
Thank you Michael :) look forward to chatting with you tomorrow about our next project!
Good tutorial. Showing and talking about the paints, brushes, how to apply is always helpful. Good lighting and camera work as well. Well done!
Geez mate it looks so cool! I can smell the diesel & cordite already!👍
Fantastic! Thanks for sharing Evan.
I just bought my first 502 oil paint. I can’t wait to try it out.
It looks AMAZING I love these kinds of weathering/painting videos! I think I might have watched all of them at least twice keep it up!
Nice one. It all looks great, (including the lightened green!), and all tied together very well with your weathering.
Thank you so much, Rick!
Great detail and painting, loved seeing this one at Nationals
Thank you very much Grant! It was great meeting you too, and all the other Posse guys :)
That's a cracking finish Evan!!
I especially like the chipping in the fighting compartment.
Thank you Dave!
Very useful. As I've probably mentioned before ...I have a block on weathering green vehicles when compared to my relative comfort weathering desert subjects. Always looking for good tutorials like this. Thanks Evan
Great content from you always Evan. Thank you for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for an excellent tutorial. I always learn something from your videos!
Wow - great work! Those Allied green vehicles are tough to weather - this looks terrific. Thanks.
wake up babe, new panzermeister vid just dropped
'i didn't prime it because I don't care'
Don't ever change bro.
Excellent workflow 👌
Turned out very nice. I made the "sister" kit, the M10 Wolverine few months ago and I used exactly the same tracks. Mine was painted with propper US olive drab from AK RC range and I was very pleased with the effect. Those paints are just great. Good luck with the show.
That came out looking really good, awesome job.
Thank you!
Very good job with both the kit and the video!!! As always!!!!
Thank you Todd!
Absolutely amazing, I'm learning so much from you, cheers 😀
Thank you! I'm glad my videos help you out :)
Superb as ever and a very eyecatching finish…next add it to a diorama with a simple building….
The TD looks great man! 👍
Great job sir .
I really like your approach to painting and weathering. Lighting the base colour successively looks far better and more realisitc than Spanish colour modulation which always looks cartoonish to me. Thanks for the tip regarding the VMS metal primer. I ordered it while pausing your video.
Excellent tutorial.
Thank you!
the kit came out great. my own DARK Achilles is more of the darkish bronze green beloved of the British army for much of the era. there's also so much discussion on subjects as tanks were supplied in standard olive drab for much of ww2 - 2 main types, one slightly more brownish and the other greenish and you have a lot of local factors .. the colour photographs from era are not also so helpful either - remember the Bovington Museum had their Matilda in BLUE for many years due to a mis-coloured photo of one in the desert.. :) glad kit came out so well..
been a while since I watched your videos! good job
Thank you!
Everything is great about this, including the fact that it's a build of a Canadian vehicle.
It's my first proper Canadian vehicle build :)
Nice and well explained tutorial mate :)
Cool to see the methodes and techniques you use , very interesting to watch .
Keep on the good work and model on mate :)
Thank you Ozzy :) I will for sure keep up the videos!
Great finish and the video is great as well , I remember people losing their shit over glossing before decals and I see alot of modellers going back to a semi-gloss or gloss before decals. Interesting.
Great finish, welcome to the delights of SCC15 ;) It’s 7th A/Tk Regt RCA isn’t it? I do like those decals - perfect fit too, unlike the ones in my kit (ended up making my own). Shading/weathering looks superb, so definitely gonna refer back on this for tips as can never get weathering right.
20:13 some of the best fake shadowing I’ve seen, kudos Evan
SCC15 is an incredibly difficult colour to nail down, just look at Britmodeller debates on it! MRP probably do the best.
I need go get some MRP. Their colours are always rated very well. 4BO...Panzer Grey...I hope I can get some eventually!
@@Panzermeister36 if you lean more toward acrylic, they have a 4BO as well. Funny enough I’m building a JS-2 alongside the Nightshift series and I found it sprayed a nice warm green without much need to add buff or sky to lighten it. I did de-saturate and modulate with those shades as well as Ammo shaders on the panel joins but I’ll say it sprayed great out of the bottle with some X-22 added.
Look great mate! Same with me on the decals the only silvering of any kind I've ever had was on the meng Rolce Royce I had to scrape them all off n get better ones they looked like a mirror the massive RNAS on the side I'm.jusy doing the takom 1.16 jeep and andys 1.16 sherman and my god the decals are bad!
Thanks Charlie. I believe the Andy's Hobby HQ Sherman is also engineered by Takom, and Takom's decals are always really thick and hard to use. Good luck with those big 1:16 scale projects!
Smart choise to use some tan to lighten the s.cc olive drab. When I used it after clear coat it became way too dark.
Job well done! Thanks, I’ve learned a lot.
Any chance of getting a tutorial on figure construction and painting?
Your idea of buff is dunkel gelb.
Thanks for the video. Have you ever looked at fuel filler areas? They usually are darker due to spillage. I agree on the dark wash detail shadowing.
I was considering doing some fuel spill effects but I didn't have a ton of time to finish this one, so I just focused some extra dark wash in those areas. And, fuel streaks down the hull sides would not have been visible due to the grouser racks and stowage. On my next Sherman project though, I will explore that more :)
*A lot of products but the result is amazing, maybe some dust on the front and side tracks will give another point of realism ... but whatever your M-10 is wonderful!*
Thank you!
Очень хорошая работа! Спасибо вам за видео! 👍
Спасибо!
genial trabajo!!!!!!!!!!!
Another great VLOG, full of excellent advice and techniques. Thanks. I never have the courage to mix paint brands. Any advice on that?
One small detail I noticed. The 'rope' you used to tie off the stowage, is in scale. Far too many modelers use twine that would be three inches thick, in 1/35.
Thank you! Yes, I used a strand of copper wire for the tie-downs. I don't like the overscale and frayed look of thread.
Amazing modelling 👍 I’m new to the modelling world ….. do you varnish after all the weathering ? Again brilliant detail 👌
I do not varnish at the very end as it will affect the pigments. Rather, I apply the matte varnish after all the oil streaking and dust on the vehicle is done...then I add the pigments and mud on the lower hull. It won't get worn off as I don't handle the model from the hull.
@@Panzermeister36 Thanks for that 👍
Awesome work! An Achilles and now on my to do list! Seriously this is awesome! I do wonder, was there a seam between the turret halves after painting on the inside?
It’s a damn shame that The Quartermasters Depot went out of business. The range of subjects was fantastic. Personally, I’m tired of US based subjects, when the Allies had many more other interesting members. Trying to make a few Canuck and Brit examples from the Italian Campaign and it’s slim pickings. Thankfully there are Polish and French options, plus a few Kiwi and Saffer units, but not widely available. If anyone knows where to replicate the Canadian and/or Commonwealth vehicle formation and tac sign offering that the QMD used to offer, please let me know.
It is a shame indeed. If you are trying to model one of these vehicles I can send you some decals....there's enough in here for a dozen vehicles!
This looks amazing. , have you ever used a wet pallet for mixing your colors ?
Not yet but I will look into one as I start painting figures
I started using one about a year ago for mixing colors for chipping and weathering. It works really. Your work is amazing.
Thank you! Did you make your own or did you buy any of the specific products or papers out there for the palette?
@@Panzermeister36 I ended up buying parchment paper and I used small and expensive Ziploc dishes but you could also use a container you get from the Chinese food place or any place for takeout and then you can put a sponge in there. It really works well and it keeps your paint from drying out..
Hello!
I noticed that you added varnish after weathering?
I have understood that after weathering it is not worth varnishing the model, because the effects disappear?
Great Achilles anyway, the color and details are amazing, great job 👍
Varnish will only make pigments disappear. Notice that I applied it only on the top of the vehicle. I want to protect the oil weathering effects and make the surface of the model matte rather than glossy.
Hey sorry late to the party but I hadn't had a question when i watched it the first time. First off amazing job as always 👏 Anyway love the m10 family of tanks always wanted to build the earliest version of it with the VERY small counter wights on the rear or the turret. So yeah do you have any info on said wights? I'm really looking for the sizes of them. I can scratch build them but without the dimensions I could mess it up. Anyway thanks for any help. Again as always fantastic artistry.
Hi, very impressive technics for the weathering....I'm just finishing my first AFV - the HB Commando V150 - nice kit for starters! I just wondered if you finished all your tanks in clear matt?...I used the semi-gloss clear for sealing prior to weathering but having coated the V150 with clear matt, it now looks a bit dull!
What are your thoughts on using Pledge or Quick Shine floor polish for clear and gloss coats? If anyone uses those often, can they be used as a varnish?
My thoughts are they are unreliable products for a varnish. They can occasionally give poor surface finishes or not properly protect underlying paints. It's best to use a proper modelling varnish...it's only a couple dollars more, and you're not risking ruining the model.
How do I know that my acrylic paints have the correct consistency
(I use these Revell paints)
Nice work! Question on assembly of kit after painting, how you put the turret together without getting cement to ruin your paint finish?
I very carefully applied a very small amount of cement along that seam in the rear centre of the turret. I didn't apply a lot as I didn't want it to flow out along details or anything.
This is GreT
RC037 you are using has a dark lid, what is different between that and the clear cap RC037?
I think they just changed materials. COVID supply chain issues etc.
Mr. Color now have their Modulation Set Olive Drab. Save some trouble of mixing. I haven't tried it though
Well, I'm not painting US Olive Drab 319. This is British Olive Drab SSC15...much less yellow in hue.
I use yellow to lighten OD.
Well, SSC15 isn't olive drab. It is the British equivalent meant to mimic OD but it is darker and more blueish than yellowish.
Do you always use a oil wash on enamel paint for weathering welds and rivets?
How is the durability of dust paint mixed with a dust pigment? I am not a fan of pigments, because they are not as durable as oils and I don't like to work with pigment fixers
It's quite good, but I don't risk touching the running gear afterwards. I only handle the model from the upper surfaces and there I did dust with oils so it's very durable.
MAY I ASK HOW MANY HOURS YOU SPEND ON PAINTING THIS TANK?
Maybe 25 hours
As you say the color is very light why don't you go back darken it with more olive barb??
Because I only realized it was a little too light at the very end, which is too late to darken it.
Just the tip.
Quarter Master Decals are no longer in business I believe.
I also believe so. My set is from 2005. Great decals though, shame they're no longer around.
@@Panzermeister36 I Can't find a good maker of Canadian WW2 armour decals.
If you're looking for markings from this sheet, I can send you some. The sheet has a ton of spares...can probably do a dozen individual vehicles with it.
@@Panzermeister36 That would be great. I am working on a Canadian 4th Armoured Division Sherman V and the decals are not great. I made my own with the yellow maple leaf over a green background but not totally happy with it.
Why do you think these vehicles were covered with brightly coloured chips in the paintwork like that? They completely spoil the model.
Because when you look at high-resolution, close-up photos of vehicles from the war, they look like this. You don't see much chipping in most photos as they are taken from too far away and they're not a high enough resolution to pick up detail. If you can find close shots of crewmen in hatches, you will notice the wear. Maybe I will include some of these photos in my next video.
All vehicles, read pics. oh and they didn't use primer.
There are plenty of photos of what primer looked like for allied vehicles. Red oxide and grey automotive primers were used. Sheet metal was enameled black. Etc.
I dont think their is much difference in wheatering british olive drab to usa olive drab.
They are very similar since SSC15 was meant to be essentially a copy of US OD but using pigments and chemicals that the British had on hand. SSC15 is a little more green in some photos, but very similar.
@@Panzermeister36 Agree, first time I used olive drab it was this british version.
You screwed up from get go. All interiors on US supplied vehicles should be semi-gloss white at 1:1 scale. If you doubt me go get a copy of Zenith presses M4 Sherman by Pat Ware. Pics.
Not on open topped vehicles. I used original photographs as reference.