Excited to see you trying these modules, but I think you should read the manual first. Setting the voltage is actually way simpler then going into the settings menu. Just pressing V or A and then pushing and turning the knob will enable you to quickly change the voltage. I have the DPS5015 and I am still very happy especially for the money, would like to see if it could actually go up to the maximum advertised power, I have only tested mine up to 250w.
If the current is reading a bit low, you can take some wire cutters and put a little crimp in the current shunt. That will increase the resistance and make the current read higher.
One cannot even get the parts for this price even if you buy SMD rolls of 10000. How on earth are these guys able to *even make a profit* on these? They have to get the parts for free...
"I just wanted to mention these types of devices, in this video I'm not going to be characterizing them or anything" *looks at timeline, 12 minutes left* He's going to characterize them isn't he...
The fact that Dave didn't manage to start a campfire with it, overall positive review & the manufacturer being willing to respond to questions (& shows a great deal of pride in their work) on a UA-cam video about a 20-30$ product... I'll be purchasing one. I've been looking at these for a couple of weeks & this seals the deal😉 Thanks for the video
I've had the DPS5005 for about 6 years working great. The first few years I powered it with an old dell laptop charger at 19.5v. About 2 years ago I got a 48v brick for it and have loved it the whole time. The case they sell to go with them includes an extra cooling fan with it's own daughter board mini power supply off the input.
Dave, did you notice that current and voltage are selectable directly from the main screen without going into the menu? As you explain it, it seems very complicated but it isn't. Just press the "V" button and change the voltage. And the "A" button for the Amps...
I’ve been using the RuiDeng BPH3205 on my bench (and on my channel) for a few months and it works extremely well as a buck boost on my 12 volt lead acid batteries. It’s worth noting you can adjust the voltage and current output without going into the full setup menu by pressing the V or A button and then using the rotary encoder. Great value as you say.
build ? this is only DC-DC power supply, if you want to build AC-DC power supply, you just buy a swwwtich power supply to let him as input, so they will be a great AC-DC power supply
The DPS-series units are the way to go with these. I've been very satisfied with the bench PSU I built with a DPS3012 and a 36V 10A power supply I had lying around. Also, you can adjust the output from the main screen by pressing the V/A buttons and adjusting with the knob.
Dave, I've seen them before and contemplated using them however when you start counting the cost, they start getting quite expensive (up in the territory of actual lab power supplies). Say you wanted a 0-30V 3A PS. This module is about $32AU + supply to run (36V 3A) $15 + ABS case $15 =$62 (never mind the bits and bobs). You can get a bench power supply on ebay for $60 delivered (V/A display, steel chassis + warranty). Fine if you have a spare PS to run it, or have an abundance of cases laying around, or you want include a PS with another project for some reason. These are OK when you're taking
Ran one of the dps5015's on a resistive load as a room heater in my office most of last winter, the little module held up like a champ! Ran it at full current load for hours at a bit over 700w everyday without a bit of trouble, seems like it would even run slightly more current than rated. Good little bit of kit!
It's good to see that the guy with a lab full of thousand dollars scopes and test equipment is still recommending these low end products, he can probably remember the days when stuff like this was all he could afford, much like many of his viewers.
I have been dying for someone to do a review on one of these, been looking at them for a while. I've just pulled the trigger on a 50v 5A one before the price skyrockets.
Dave, I also have one and you do not need to controll them from the configuration screen, which is only for the maximum ratings. You can set voltage and current from the main screen with the big letters by pressing "V" or "A" . Cheers
I have the 50V 15A version. 2 of them actually, and they work great. When I got the first one, I put it through a stress test, drawing 15A at 12V with 54V input, for an hour and it survived flawlessly. That is when I decided to order another one. Highly recommended for anyone who needs a relatively cheap and reliable CV/CC bench power supply.
Sure you do, several of the boards you looked at had tx/rx/gnd headers for serial comms. Also my be worth checking out github.com/kanflo/opendps which even enables WiFi capabilities via an ESP8266
Nice to see you do a video on a bit of kit that's affordable to pretty much everyone. They look like a great option for hobbyists and tinkerers on a budget.
Nothing to stop you from upgrading the heatsink on there. I mean, jeez, if you don't have a couple of heatsinks lying around, you aren't really trying. I'd love to see someone build one of these up with a fan-ventillated enclosure and a bigger heat sink and see how much power they can push before letting the smoke out.
My 50V 20A one (max 600w) runs at 500w for 4 hours a day. Just gets warm to the touch. I use it to charge large deep cycle Lead acid battery banks. (400ah 24v). After one year, I'm still waiting for the smoke.
I use a 36V 16A power supply but if you do not need 600w, you can buy the 400w for much cheaper, Shop around. Aliexpress also have some cheaper ones available. www.ebay.ie/itm/DC-3V-5V-12V-24V-36V-48V-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-LED-CCTV-PSU-/151886747221?var=&hash=item235d27d655:m:mQZovYXghnw8y48gBQEuuLw
I have the 12 amp version and have fully loaded it with an electronic load, for about 8 hours, without a problem. Max temp on the heatsink was about 50 deg C in an ambient of about 25 deg C. Biggest problem was finding a TX big enough to provide the DC input but I lucked out and was gifted a DC pack from a scrapped MRI scanner! That had a huge toroidal TX on it, with some hefty bridge recs and smoothing caps! They are really nice little modules and even if they turn into magic smoke after some abuse, who cares at the price!
being heavy into electronics i have never needed to limit my current unless im charging a small cell and i tend to use solar cells for current limiting. because of that i just use a cc cv variable step up chip and a lithium battery. making it pocket portable and a max of around 4-30v 3a. 10 dollars or less.
I have a 35V 15A version of one of these hooked up to a 36V 20A DC power supply. Works great. It is a bit noisy, but I just add extra filtering to any sensitive projects. I haven't tested it below 1.5V, but it does give a full 15A at 1.5V.
There are newer buck-boost versions of these with much higher output as well, those have a separate module with a heatsink and fan. They are amazing, having buck-boost gives u 6-40v input 0-30v output, you can plug it into anything you find and get the power you need. Been using them for a year now every day.
Very nice Video Dave ! I too love all these cheap Chinese doodads and gizmos. Very inexpensive way to get an adjustable bench power supply- for those of us who like to tinker. Bought a load of stuff last year for not much more than postage and with the electronic junk we harvest from the scrap pile, my little middle school student electronic club has parts and such to learn and tinker with. Kids still love to learn about, tear apart, and up-cycle electronics, just as we did as kids- warms my heart. Keeping the electronics bug going for another generation ! Be Well !
Ha! I just built one of these today with the 50V 15A version xD BTW press the V and A buttons to set the Volts and Amps instead of going through the menu. Way quicker
Tom Combe it has a input of up to 60v DC. It is not mains powered. It is literally just a buck converter on steroids. I bought a 48v 15A supply to power mine. With tweeking you can output just over 50v at the full 15A.
I have been using a 50v 15A one for half a year or so, it's really rather nice. Have not tested with more than 400W, but it does that admirably while staying fairly cool (65*C or so), yet a bit loud (though I dont think that was the max RPM on the fan). Powering it from 500W 48V power supply that I build into the same case as the module for a nice self contained unit. Overall really nice pieces of kit. Got it for 36$ on Ali at the time. Also you can press the up and down arrow to adjust from the main screen, that's why they are marked with V and A.
Hi friend thank you very much for your message and your support, you can try it over 400w, there is not any problem now we have DPS5015 communication version about the fan , it is loud? it should be not loud.. in the begining it is loud or after some times, it begin to be loud ?
This channel has the best yt comments that I've seen by far!! Every body is on topic and no one is trying to be funny. You guys are awesome, have a wounderfull day!
Output power protection is good for things like LED modules ... You may get different voltage and current depending on temperature of module but you can still set hard limit for power to protect module.
if you press V/A/arrow button on the higher power Modules you can do live Adjust which is much more comfortable than how you adjusted current and voltage.
I've had my eye on these for a while. I was planning to buy one and toss on a power transformer, full bridge rectifier and a smoothing cap then have a DPS3005 on the output. Also include a few nifty options of my own. If it passes Dave's test then I think I shall buy a couple.
Hi Dave, these are very good performers. I made a few different combinations up recently, one as a portable battery powered bench (field) supply running a 3s 5Ah lipo into a boost regulator and the appropriate module giving 0-30v and up to 5A.. fully portable, it works brilliantly. Another is the 15A version backed up with a 350W smps which I use to charge a 200Ah 24v lead acid EV battery, and it does full load (300W) for hours, and has done dozens of charge cycles with that vehicle. It runs pretty warm but no runaway. The last one is a brute with a 750w smps (48V/16A) and it really delivers. For the money no other option comes close.
Funny, I just got mine and put it together today. I got the DPS5005 along with the metal housing. Bought them off Banggood, $26 USD for the module, $19 for the housing. Grabbed a 60v 6.7a psu off ebay for $30 (which has a voltage adjustment range of 54-66v, so I simply set it to 54v) for a complete setup that takes advantage of its full potential. They're manufactured by Ruideng. The housing is labeled with both the RD logo and "Hangzhou Ruideng Technology"
i was putting in my latest eBay order when I noticed something similar in my recommendations, so I splurged for I think the $15 and I have been so happy with it. I went the even simpler route and got some short 2-3" chunks of wire and some "M" cable connectors. combined that with some custom alligator breakout clips and everything else using the same connections I have a very modular system. I actually soldered to the connectors in case I wanted to use the screw terminals with a higher gauge wire or other projects. I also picked up a LED work light that works off of 12V and because everything uses the same connectors I can just put this in line and now I have a dimmable LED light when needed.
Just bought two DPS5005, because of this video and another one made by our other famous Andreas Spieß - the guy with the swiss accent ;) because they added a USB and bluetooth module which enables full control via a PC. One DPS5005 is about 39 euro at the moment with a german seller (no import tax and/or customs hassle)
I'd love to see more video's on cheap unit's like this (there are many bareboard version's of these) It's great for those of us who aren't serious into electronics but like to dabble a bit. I'm not dropping 200$+ on a bench power supply for the use i'd get out of it. A 20$ish board and a old plugpack though? hell ya i'm going to buy one
thank you very much for your support , this is our directly to make some expensive product cheaper , the quality and function are still good. for our power supply, you just buy a switch power supply to make a digital power supply ... generally switch power supply is not expensive
Hey Dave. Please make more videos on these nice little modules. Please do a simple efficiency test and take look on the big one. I love high current power supplies.
Torsten B Especially when you realize that every electronic device out of China that has ever suffered an early catastrophic death carried that exact same sticker. Definitely inspired confidence! LOL The sad thing is that the seem to apply those stickers without ever powering on many (most/all?) devices as I have received other China export products where the input or outputs of a power supply were clearly bridged across with solder, so a dead short, yet still carried that silly QC sticker! That or "Inspector ##"!
Ive got one of thse little module units which i run off a 18v Li Ion power tool battery. Also added a little beeper set to 15v so i dont run the battery down too much. Works as a great portable little power supply!
TheColinputer If you are using the Ryobi 18V One+ Lithium Ion battery packs then they have the necessary protection circuitry built into the actual battery packs themselves since the battery packs had to maintain backwards compatibility with their older NiCd battery packs. So if those are what you are using then no other protection is required. But I can only say that with certainty for the Ryobi 18V One+ battery packs, though some other brands may also build protection into their batteries (as opposed to the tool). I occasionally disassemble their battery packs to incorporate into robotics projects since their batteries have the protection and balancing circuitry built in and all that is required for charging is a 4-pin connection back to the charger (and you can use an empty battery shell to interface with an unmodified charger. But that gives me a 5-cell battery pack that ranges between 18-22V, depending upon charge state, for driving motors and a source of power to downregulate to 3.3V and 5V as needed for the sensors, control circuitry and microcontroller boards.
I use Makita mostly which dont have any cut off in them. But i also have some AEG which do however its at about 13.5v and i also have Milwaukee but i honestly am unsure about them. I just got the little USB phone charger add ons for each brand and cut part of the plastic to fit an XT60 connector. Then just use that to plug the power module into them.
These are great modules. I have a DPS5015 (50V/15A) powered with a 150W 48V power supply. It is rated to charge batteries directly. They have just introduced a cheap RS232 and Bluetooth module to control supply from PC.
Would love to see you test those who have higher current and voltage. I have wanted you to test these since I found them. I have built my own and is quite happy with it. The only problem I have is to find a good case that can fit the plug pack, the module and a extra fan but isn't to big.
Hi Sorry Dave-Nothing new I bought one of these 3 years ago,the only problem I found was RFI You need some very good filtering to make it viable. It is best driven from a linear supply !
These would be great for setting up a small electronics lab for grade school kids. Cheap to set up and you don't have to worry of the kids get rough with them.
I've got a DPS5015 for a year now and it's a wonderful little thing to have even though it doesn't have a great user interface or I'm doubtful about the max output power. Stil, I've been using it at 10-12A on low voltages (a few volts) or 48V with less than an amps and it's working great. I don't need a high output power from this unit. Sadly it doesn't perform really well on low output current/voltage but it's OK. It has a fan but it only kicks in when I go above 10A with a couple of volts, doesn't seem to heat that much. I didn't take a look at the noise on the output but it doesn't matter for me. It is fed by an Aliexpress PSU (220VAC to 48VDC, I set it to about 51V) and it's working great for a total of $65. Not that cheap but you won't find anything else with such a high output current and voltage, and the most important characteristics: current limiting capabilities.
I have 12 of these, all different models. Not an issue yet with any, even the DPS5020 50V @ 20A with USB & Bluetooth connection to A PC running their software. They're awesome. Just grab a 48V powersupply (with adjustable voltage, most I've used go over 50V, or something higher but under 60V If I remember right) DPH is great with Buck/Boost. The guy who owns RDTech is a great guy. Very friendly and my packages via e-Packet arrive to Canada (West Coast) in 1 to 3 weeks in a nice styrofoam container. I don't know if something has happened to the quality though, none of mine look like that. They're clean and no solder issues. AliExpress is the official store.
I used their buck-boost converter (DPH3205) to build a bench supply. I had a 12V 13A Cosel power supply lying around which serves as input to the buck-boost converter. Very easy to build.
I bought 1 at a local pc show I got the one that goes to 5 amps cost 15.99 . Have had it for 4 weeks and have made a battery charger from it and it workes better than my craftsman battery charger. Please do more testing on these things.
mad , i just bought a dps3003 one few weeks ago . Glad you gave em look . Now it just has to arrive . Mail to Canada from China is a crap-shoot time wise.
Agreed :) BigClive as well. I'm almost certain all 3 of them have referenced each other in their videos. I almost expected him to call the instructions chinglish. but come on, "power supply is cabinet and delicate". Now if Dave says "skookum choocher"..
Great Video... Been using a couple of DPH 3205 (32V/5Amp) units in the shop for a year now. Work great for what we need. Mounted 1 in the box they sell. The other in a larger enclosure with an AC to DC PS built in.
I've heard that when you disable output on some of these that the *capacitor is still charged* to previous output voltage (possible potential on output posts) *or* perhaps if you were to then change the output voltage (say to a lower value) and re-enable output it could damage a component being supplied to (as it takes a while for the capacitor to drain to the new selected output voltage)...
if you design a psu, you can either place the output capacitance before or after the output switch or after, which means, if you toggle the switch and switch the output off, the capacitors still dump their load into your circuit, or if you switch on the load, the voltage may ramp up slower. so if i had to design that, i would rather go for the first way, put output capacitance before the switch....so there could be theoretical the problem, say you dail in 50V, switch the load of, dial in 3V and switch the load on again, realy realy quickly (say for example, you do it in software), and your psu design is not able to sink current and has realy fat massive output caps, then your load may see a voltage spike of 50V. But in reality in most cases this should not case a problem, and if it does, you probably know it
Yep, these things are great! If you can believe it they sell one that puts out *** 870 Watts!! ***. I couldn’t resist and bought one for around $50 and use it to control the brightness of a 100W LED. It’s worth mentioning that it’s a buck/boost model so it will quite happily put out 33V with a 20V input. It also stays quite cool at 100W, and at 30W the fan stays off without it feeling even warm. It’s like the other high output models with a separate power board and two ribbon cables to the display. Haven’t had a chance to really push its limits at higher power, but it’s definitely intriguing as an inexpensive supply that can conceivably put out several hundred watts at up to roughly 80V, can’t remember the output voltage limit however it was quite high, with a 15A output limit.
You may also want to test switching the primary while the secondary is supposed off. May be in for some surprises with certain cheap power supplies. Regards
I put two DPS5005 (sharing a 24V meanwell supply) and a DPS5015 (with a separate 5A 24V supply) in a box for a three-channel supply, and with the separate input supplies it functions as a split supply too. Very happy with it! Also worth checking out github.com/kanflo/opendps but TBH the stock firmware UI doesn't bother me too much. I think I'll update them if I find myself wanting to control or data log over the UART.
You can't control it over UART? I thought that the DPS5015 ha sthis option built in. They are selling those with USB and/or Bluetooth modules and some fancy LabVIEW software.
They do the job as long as you don't ask too much. Choice of PSU, obviously the one you already have in a drawer is the best, if you have a choice bear in mind the unit will drop somewhere round 2v so if you want 12v you need a PSU that delivers more than that. I found a couple of old laptop bricks which give 15v and 17v which is an ideal value. I find the limiters very useful for troubleshooting, the unit looks after itself but it saves frying components
Awesome...I would put the 3 capacitor ac ripple on the inside of the output plugs to clean it up....I remember you covering that a while back...and yes a 19vdc laptop pack would be great
Very interesting little device. I currently have some 1970 era power supplies I've been thinking of modifying into something as useful. The ones I have contain Fero-Resonant isolation transformers. Those coupled with AutoTransformers to get the range of voltages from 0 to 128 VAC or 135 VDC, but no current control and no readout. Glad you did this video FIRST. I can still use the cases these old supplies are in and cut new holes for the modules. No doubt I'd opt for the higher voltage and power ranges just simply for the sake of having something I might need (if ever). I certainly don't need 135 VDC, and I have virtually no idea how much amperage these oldie's are capable of. So it looks like this will be a "Soon to tackle" project. For now, I still have to build my "Marble Machine" for my grandkids and a custom hand made picture frame made from Juniper we cut down two years ago. Busy little beaver here.
I just got my 30V 5A boost/buck converter and two 50V 20A buck converters from banggood. I'm going to build a bit beefier lab supply with those. I'll be using those only for building and testing a few more lab supplies :)
I really like these and recently bought the version with bluetooth and usb after having the regular 50 15. Very inexpensive and capable. Can hardly hear the fan when it's on. Planning to get one of their signal generators soon.
These would make good use of several power adapters I have in a drawer from dead laptops over the years. Now if I only had a project for all the out dated smart phones in the other drawer.
I just wish they had a bridge rectifier and transformer that you can buy to make it complete. These are just dc to dc, so you need a power supply for your power supply.
Bound to be better than my ghetto bench power supply built from an old computer power supply. 3.3V, 5V, & 12 by default, but I can hook up a cheap adjustable boost converter for other options & check the setting with the multimeter. I've been considering revising the design to have a dedicated adjustable output with a sub $10 multimeter display. I've also been toying with the idea of connecting all the unused 12V lines to a car power outlet so I can power more power-hungry devices. If the supplies in this video are decent, that might make my bench supply obsolete
Hi friend I guss you need the DPH3205, you can see our friends video to DPH3205 ua-cam.com/play/PLNcr2Rj_07PGANRTMdMsFRQWA4wMcLdx2.html You will know the quality . recently, we will publish DPH5005. it will be good too
They must be incredibly efficient, I'd love to see them put through tests and also know what switching devices and frequency they use. It reminds me of these little "class D" audio amp modules I see on ebay etc. that put out tens of watts from a tiny little board. Don't know how they're doing it!
i have got the 50v/15A with Bluetooth and Serial connection and it works like a charm. also the pc Programm to control the unit over bluetooth/UART long press the knob to lock
Oh. My dad bought that module thing. He ordered 2 for the both of use but only one got here :/ Didn't solve our problem because we still need a power supply to power it. We have this thing we cobbled together with a huge ass transformer, a bunch of diodes and a big capacitor, giving us either 24 or 48V, but everything is just sitting there in open air.
You could probably get a half decent laptop PSU to power it pretty cheap, and save having the shock hazards kicking about for you to touch. Here's one good for 19V and 4.74A, should give you about 18V and at least 4.5A usable range. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-HP-Pavilion-dv3-dv4-dv5-g4-g6-g7-tm2-Laptop-Charger-Adapter-Power-Supply-PSU-/111078181436?hash=item19dcc68a3c:g:o0QAAOSw-29ZSLeg
I have similar module from ebay for 13$ with model number N438+ and it has a voltage range from 0,8v to 24v and current from 0 to 3.200A (everything was tested and confirmed by myself)... I recommend to buy some bigger heatsink and invest in some computer fan for cooling because it gets pretty hot.
i have that one too but now it has a problem. microcontroller and screen works fine but output over 100ma makes it to reset and restart. havent found anything online , semms i am the only one who has a faulty unit?
Excited to see you trying these modules, but I think you should read the manual first. Setting the voltage is actually way simpler then going into the settings menu. Just pressing V or A and then pushing and turning the knob will enable you to quickly change the voltage. I have the DPS5015 and I am still very happy especially for the money, would like to see if it could actually go up to the maximum advertised power, I have only tested mine up to 250w.
If the current is reading a bit low, you can take some wire cutters and put a little crimp in the current shunt.
That will increase the resistance and make the current read higher.
These look great for the money! Please do a follow up Dave!
I can attest to that ... I built it with the 0-32V 5A 0-5.000A boost version and for 30$ and a 3d printed case I have one badass power supply.
One cannot even get the parts for this price even if you buy SMD rolls of 10000.
How on earth are these guys able to *even make a profit* on these? They have to get the parts for free...
GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods
you can buy one to test , you will like it
Kevin Miedema
thank you for your support , hope you like it , you should have a DPS3205, we will publish DPH5005, It will be great too
Stavros Korokithakis
thanik you for your support , do you have one ?
"I just wanted to mention these types of devices, in this video I'm not going to be characterizing them or anything"
*looks at timeline, 12 minutes left*
He's going to characterize them isn't he...
Hahahaha LITERALLY thought exactly the same thing
It's rather annoying.
The fact that Dave didn't manage to start a campfire with it, overall positive review & the manufacturer being willing to respond to questions (& shows a great deal of pride in their work) on a UA-cam video about a 20-30$ product... I'll be purchasing one.
I've been looking at these for a couple of weeks & this seals the deal😉
Thanks for the video
I've had the DPS5005 for about 6 years working great. The first few years I powered it with an old dell laptop charger at 19.5v. About 2 years ago I got a 48v brick for it and have loved it the whole time. The case they sell to go with them includes an extra cooling fan with it's own daughter board mini power supply off the input.
Dave, did you notice that current and voltage are selectable directly from the main screen without going into the menu? As you explain it, it seems very complicated but it isn't.
Just press the "V" button and change the voltage. And the "A" button for the Amps...
I thought he would find that later. But he didn´t.
Play with Junk
yes, you are right , in the first, he did not find it out .. at his second video, he knows
thank you very much for your explain ...
Björn Hellgren
he found it now ... in the second video , he show this operation
Walter Boxhead
he should be very busy and we can understand him , about the operation, we will make it better
you mean how to set some data and store it into data group ?
I’ve been using the RuiDeng BPH3205 on my bench (and on my channel) for a few months and it works extremely well as a buck boost on my 12 volt lead acid batteries. It’s worth noting you can adjust the voltage and current output without going into the full setup menu by pressing the V or A button and then using the rotary encoder. Great value as you say.
> How to build this device
Open mail, plug in.
Well...
build ? this is only DC-DC power supply, if you want to build AC-DC power supply, you just buy a swwwtich power supply to let him as input, so they will be a great AC-DC power supply
I bought a couple of these about a year ago - they work well - don't short the output or feed volts into it. It's good to see cases are available.
Pretty sure it's not a special case
I like it when you play with things that are affordable for the typical hobbyist
yep and these videos get about double the view count compared to his other videos :)
bdot02
bdot02
You can buy one to play
The DPS-series units are the way to go with these.
I've been very satisfied with the bench PSU I built with a DPS3012 and a 36V 10A power supply I had lying around.
Also, you can adjust the output from the main screen by pressing the V/A buttons and adjusting with the knob.
Dave, I've seen them before and contemplated using them however when you start counting the cost, they start getting quite expensive (up in the territory of actual lab power supplies). Say you wanted a 0-30V 3A PS. This module is about $32AU + supply to run (36V 3A) $15 + ABS case $15 =$62 (never mind the bits and bobs). You can get a bench power supply on ebay for $60 delivered (V/A display, steel chassis + warranty). Fine if you have a spare PS to run it, or have an abundance of cases laying around, or you want include a PS with another project for some reason. These are OK when you're taking
Ran one of the dps5015's on a resistive load as a room heater in my office most of last winter, the little module held up like a champ! Ran it at full current load for hours at a bit over 700w everyday without a bit of trouble, seems like it would even run slightly more current than rated. Good little bit of kit!
Dave giving good reviews of chinese stuff, what a time to be alive.
yes, thank for Dave. in fact, our produce is good, so he can give me good review. if it is rubbish , he will not see it
It's good to see that the guy with a lab full of thousand dollars scopes and test equipment is still recommending these low end products, he can probably remember the days when stuff like this was all he could afford, much like many of his viewers.
@@rdtech9153 do you have dual rail power supply?
@@nitinkumar29 sorry for now we don't have that
I have been dying for someone to do a review on one of these, been looking at them for a while. I've just pulled the trigger on a 50v 5A one before the price skyrockets.
Dave, I also have one and you do not need to controll them from the configuration screen, which is only for the maximum ratings. You can set voltage and current from the main screen with the big letters by pressing "V" or "A" . Cheers
I have the 50V 15A version. 2 of them actually, and they work great. When I got the first one, I put it through a stress test, drawing 15A at 12V with 54V input, for an hour and it survived flawlessly. That is when I decided to order another one. Highly recommended for anyone who needs a relatively cheap and reliable CV/CC bench power supply.
Dave, you missed the COMMUNICATION versions of some of these modules, which include serial or bluetooth connection and pc software!
Yes, forgot to mention, but I didn't have one of those.
take a look at this video for info about them and the software: ua-cam.com/video/QxR-_ZnREQQ/v-deo.html
Sure you do, several of the boards you looked at had tx/rx/gnd headers for serial comms. Also my be worth checking out github.com/kanflo/opendps which even enables WiFi capabilities via an ESP8266
squalazzo
he should buy it 10 months ago, there is not communication version at that time
EEVblog
yes, when you buy it , there is no communication version
Nice to see you do a video on a bit of kit that's affordable to pretty much everyone. They look like a great option for hobbyists and tinkerers on a budget.
Pete Allum As they say, you can never have enough power supplies. :-p
A while back i got one of these, a computer PSU and a plastic case. I get fixed 12v,5v,3.3v and a variable output from that case.
Very useful.
Nothing to stop you from upgrading the heatsink on there. I mean, jeez, if you don't have a couple of heatsinks lying around, you aren't really trying.
I'd love to see someone build one of these up with a fan-ventillated enclosure and a bigger heat sink and see how much power they can push before letting the smoke out.
My 50V 20A one (max 600w) runs at 500w for 4 hours a day. Just gets warm to the touch. I use it to charge large deep cycle Lead acid battery banks. (400ah 24v). After one year, I'm still waiting for the smoke.
What do you use to power it?
lead acid battery charging as mentioned above
billywhizzy
No, what transformer/rectifiers provide the dc input voltage to the 50v 20a module?
I use a 36V 16A power supply but if you do not need 600w, you can buy the 400w for much cheaper, Shop around. Aliexpress also have some cheaper ones available. www.ebay.ie/itm/DC-3V-5V-12V-24V-36V-48V-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-LED-CCTV-PSU-/151886747221?var=&hash=item235d27d655:m:mQZovYXghnw8y48gBQEuuLw
I have the 12 amp version and have fully loaded it with an electronic load, for about 8 hours, without a problem. Max temp on the heatsink was about 50 deg C in an ambient of about 25 deg C. Biggest problem was finding a TX big enough to provide the DC input but I lucked out and was gifted a DC pack from a scrapped MRI scanner! That had a huge toroidal TX on it, with some hefty bridge recs and smoothing caps! They are really nice little modules and even if they turn into magic smoke after some abuse, who cares at the price!
being heavy into electronics i have never needed to limit my current unless im charging a small cell and i tend to use solar cells for current limiting. because of that i just use a cc cv variable step up chip and a lithium battery. making it pocket portable and a max of around 4-30v 3a. 10 dollars or less.
I have a 35V 15A version of one of these hooked up to a 36V 20A DC power supply. Works great. It is a bit noisy, but I just add extra filtering to any sensitive projects. I haven't tested it below 1.5V, but it does give a full 15A at 1.5V.
👍😁 This was quite instrumental and I'm glad you had the power to regulate this current information in a way that wasn't conFUSEing.
There are newer buck-boost versions of these with much higher output as well, those have a separate module with a heatsink and fan. They are amazing, having buck-boost gives u 6-40v input 0-30v output, you can plug it into anything you find and get the power you need. Been using them for a year now every day.
DPH3205? www.aliexpress.com/store/product/RD-DPH32305-Constant-Voltage-current-Buck-boost-Programmable-digital-Power-Supply-buck-Voltage-converter-color-LCD/923042_32762131242.html
Michael Lowe that's the exact one, thanks for posting
Very nice Video Dave !
I too love all these cheap Chinese doodads and gizmos. Very inexpensive way to get an adjustable bench power supply- for those of us who like to tinker. Bought a load of stuff last year for not much more than postage and with the electronic junk we harvest from the scrap pile, my little middle school student electronic club has parts and such to learn and tinker with. Kids still love to learn about, tear apart, and up-cycle electronics, just as we did as kids- warms my heart. Keeping the electronics bug going for another generation ! Be Well !
Ha! I just built one of these today with the 50V 15A version xD
BTW press the V and A buttons to set the Volts and Amps instead of going through the menu. Way quicker
holy shit, that's a lot of power
TheJacksterINFO
Did you make a custom power supply for the module or does it convert the mains itself???
Tom Combe it has a input of up to 60v DC. It is not mains powered. It is literally just a buck converter on steroids.
I bought a 48v 15A supply to power mine. With tweeking you can output just over 50v at the full 15A.
TheJacksterINFO do you have a link to your supply?
Just go on eBay. "48V 15A power supply"
One thing that is much better than even some higher priced bench power supplies: It shows set and actual value at once.
6:17 In a case like that, you could probably fit a 90w laptop power brick in there too...
Yeah, likely.
I have been using a 50v 15A one for half a year or so, it's really rather nice. Have not tested with more than 400W, but it does that admirably while staying fairly cool (65*C or so), yet a bit loud (though I dont think that was the max RPM on the fan). Powering it from 500W 48V power supply that I build into the same case as the module for a nice self contained unit. Overall really nice pieces of kit. Got it for 36$ on Ali at the time.
Also you can press the up and down arrow to adjust from the main screen, that's why they are marked with V and A.
Hi friend
thank you very much for your message and your support, you can try it over 400w, there is not any problem
now we have DPS5015 communication version
about the fan , it is loud? it should be not loud.. in the begining it is loud or after some times, it begin to be loud ?
This channel has the best yt comments that I've seen by far!! Every body is on topic and no one is trying to be funny. You guys are awesome, have a wounderfull day!
Adeldex
yes, there are many watcher and they all like electronic.
Output power protection is good for things like LED modules ... You may get different voltage and current depending on temperature of module but you can still set hard limit for power to protect module.
if you press V/A/arrow button on the higher power Modules you can do live Adjust which is much more comfortable than how you adjusted current and voltage.
I've had my eye on these for a while. I was planning to buy one and toss on a power transformer, full bridge rectifier and a smoothing cap then have a DPS3005 on the output. Also include a few nifty options of my own. If it passes Dave's test then I think I shall buy a couple.
Is the DPS3005 up to 30v 5A output?
@@irishguy200007 I think so
Hi Dave, these are very good performers. I made a few different combinations up recently, one as a portable battery powered bench (field) supply running a 3s 5Ah lipo into a boost regulator and the appropriate module giving 0-30v and up to 5A.. fully portable, it works brilliantly.
Another is the 15A version backed up with a 350W smps which I use to charge a 200Ah 24v lead acid EV battery, and it does full load (300W) for hours, and has done dozens of charge cycles with that vehicle. It runs pretty warm but no runaway.
The last one is a brute with a 750w smps (48V/16A) and it really delivers. For the money no other option comes close.
Funny, I just got mine and put it together today. I got the DPS5005 along with the metal housing. Bought them off Banggood, $26 USD for the module, $19 for the housing. Grabbed a 60v 6.7a psu off ebay for $30 (which has a voltage adjustment range of 54-66v, so I simply set it to 54v) for a complete setup that takes advantage of its full potential. They're manufactured by Ruideng. The housing is labeled with both the RD logo and "Hangzhou Ruideng Technology"
i was putting in my latest eBay order when I noticed something similar in my recommendations, so I splurged for I think the $15 and I have been so happy with it.
I went the even simpler route and got some short 2-3" chunks of wire and some "M" cable connectors. combined that with some custom alligator breakout clips and everything else using the same connections I have a very modular system.
I actually soldered to the connectors in case I wanted to use the screw terminals with a higher gauge wire or other projects.
I also picked up a LED work light that works off of 12V and because everything uses the same connectors I can just put this in line and now I have a dimmable LED light when needed.
Just bought two DPS5005, because of this video and another one made by our other famous Andreas Spieß - the guy with the swiss accent ;) because they added a USB and bluetooth module which enables full control via a PC.
One DPS5005 is about 39 euro at the moment with a german seller (no import tax and/or customs hassle)
I was afraid of shorting mine! Thanks for checking them out.
I'd love to see more video's on cheap unit's like this (there are many bareboard version's of these) It's great for those of us who aren't serious into electronics but like to dabble a bit. I'm not dropping 200$+ on a bench power supply for the use i'd get out of it. A 20$ish board and a old plugpack though? hell ya i'm going to buy one
thank you very much for your support , this is our directly to make some expensive product cheaper , the quality and function are still good. for our power supply, you just buy a switch power supply to make a digital power supply ...
generally switch power supply is not expensive
Hey Dave. Please make more videos on these nice little modules. Please do a simple efficiency test and take look on the big one. I love high current power supplies.
Gotta love that "Q.C. PASSED" sticker. Improves confidence by at least 200%.
Torsten B Especially when you realize that every electronic device out of China that has ever suffered an early catastrophic death carried that exact same sticker. Definitely inspired confidence! LOL
The sad thing is that the seem to apply those stickers without ever powering on many (most/all?) devices as I have received other China export products where the input or outputs of a power supply were clearly bridged across with solder, so a dead short, yet still carried that silly QC sticker! That or "Inspector ##"!
"If you haven't got a whole bunch of spare plug packs...you're not really trying." Best Laugh o' the Day Award winner. Thanks Sir Dave!
Ive got one of thse little module units which i run off a 18v Li Ion power tool battery. Also added a little beeper set to 15v so i dont run the battery down too much. Works as a great portable little power supply!
TheColinputer If you are using the Ryobi 18V One+ Lithium Ion battery packs then they have the necessary protection circuitry built into the actual battery packs themselves since the battery packs had to maintain backwards compatibility with their older NiCd battery packs. So if those are what you are using then no other protection is required. But I can only say that with certainty for the Ryobi 18V One+ battery packs, though some other brands may also build protection into their batteries (as opposed to the tool).
I occasionally disassemble their battery packs to incorporate into robotics projects since their batteries have the protection and balancing circuitry built in and all that is required for charging is a 4-pin connection back to the charger (and you can use an empty battery shell to interface with an unmodified charger. But that gives me a 5-cell battery pack that ranges between 18-22V, depending upon charge state, for driving motors and a source of power to downregulate to 3.3V and 5V as needed for the sensors, control circuitry and microcontroller boards.
I use Makita mostly which dont have any cut off in them. But i also have some AEG which do however its at about 13.5v and i also have Milwaukee but i honestly am unsure about them. I just got the little USB phone charger add ons for each brand and cut part of the plastic to fit an XT60 connector. Then just use that to plug the power module into them.
These are great modules. I have a DPS5015 (50V/15A) powered with a 150W 48V power supply. It is rated to charge batteries directly.
They have just introduced a cheap RS232 and Bluetooth module to control supply from PC.
Would love to see you test those who have higher current and voltage. I have wanted you to test these since I found them. I have built my own and is quite happy with it.
The only problem I have is to find a good case that can fit the plug pack, the module and a extra fan but isn't to big.
Hello Björn Hellgren, am also trying to build my on like this. As you did can you help me with it please?.
Hi
Sorry Dave-Nothing new
I bought one of these 3 years ago,the only problem I found was RFI
You need some very good filtering to make it viable.
It is best driven from a linear supply !
These would be great for setting up a small electronics lab for grade school kids. Cheap to set up and you don't have to worry of the kids get rough with them.
I've got a DPS5015 for a year now and it's a wonderful little thing to have even though it doesn't have a great user interface or I'm doubtful about the max output power. Stil, I've been using it at 10-12A on low voltages (a few volts) or 48V with less than an amps and it's working great. I don't need a high output power from this unit. Sadly it doesn't perform really well on low output current/voltage but it's OK. It has a fan but it only kicks in when I go above 10A with a couple of volts, doesn't seem to heat that much. I didn't take a look at the noise on the output but it doesn't matter for me.
It is fed by an Aliexpress PSU (220VAC to 48VDC, I set it to about 51V) and it's working great for a total of $65. Not that cheap but you won't find anything else with such a high output current and voltage, and the most important characteristics: current limiting capabilities.
This video cleared some of the fog Dave, I was in doubt about these power supplies. Thanks for sharing!!
Excellent. Thanks for doing some basic characterisation. I have a couple of the DP50V5A ones sitting around but hadn't got around to trying them.
Let's see the big power ones!!
he will make , and you can go to our channel to our video and our friends video, there are many test for DPS5015 and DPS5020
I saw these module a few months ago, didn't buy it because i though they were going to be crap. glad dave got a look at it.
I have 12 of these, all different models. Not an issue yet with any, even the DPS5020 50V @ 20A with USB & Bluetooth connection to A PC running their software. They're awesome. Just grab a 48V powersupply (with adjustable voltage, most I've used go over 50V, or something higher but under 60V If I remember right) DPH is great with Buck/Boost. The guy who owns RDTech is a great guy. Very friendly and my packages via e-Packet arrive to Canada (West Coast) in 1 to 3 weeks in a nice styrofoam container. I don't know if something has happened to the quality though, none of mine look like that. They're clean and no solder issues. AliExpress is the official store.
I used their buck-boost converter (DPH3205) to build a bench supply. I had a 12V 13A Cosel power supply lying around which serves as input to the buck-boost converter. Very easy to build.
I bought 1 at a local pc show I got the one that goes to 5 amps cost 15.99 . Have had it for 4 weeks and have made a battery charger from it and it workes better than my craftsman battery charger. Please do more testing on these things.
mad , i just bought a dps3003 one few weeks ago . Glad you gave em look . Now it just has to arrive . Mail to Canada from China is a crap-shoot time wise.
Good looking out Dave, had half an eye out for one of these for a while.
I didn't know about these power supplies. They look pretty good. I would certainly like you to do more videos on them Dave.
Those modules look very nice. Now that someone checked them with a oscilloscope, i think i can trust them well enough to order one. Thanks!
Definitely buying one of those. Could use a second power supply and this would make for an affordable DIY project.
Neat!
Awesome! Been looking bench power supply for a while to my random usage. Bought 32v 5A version of this!
Julian Ilett's channel bleeding into Dave's channel :)
Not that there's nothing wrong with that, they're two of my favorite channels.
Agreed :) BigClive as well. I'm almost certain all 3 of them have referenced each other in their videos. I almost expected him to call the instructions chinglish. but come on, "power supply is cabinet and delicate". Now if Dave says "skookum choocher"..
yes, those are best channel , and make video to best products, and they are all professional
chemicalvamp
so it can prove that our produce is indeed good , haha
unsubscribed from illet after he smashed up a watch
Great Video... Been using a couple of DPH 3205 (32V/5Amp) units in the shop for a year now. Work great for what we need.
Mounted 1 in the box they sell. The other in a larger enclosure with an AC to DC PS built in.
I've heard that when you disable output on some of these that the *capacitor is still charged* to previous output voltage (possible potential on output posts) *or* perhaps if you were to then change the output voltage (say to a lower value) and re-enable output it could damage a component being supplied to (as it takes a while for the capacitor to drain to the new selected output voltage)...
if you design a psu, you can either place the output capacitance before or after the output switch or after, which means, if you toggle the switch and switch the output off, the capacitors still dump their load into your circuit, or if you switch on the load, the voltage may ramp up slower. so if i had to design that, i would rather go for the first way, put output capacitance before the switch....so there could be theoretical the problem, say you dail in 50V, switch the load of, dial in 3V and switch the load on again, realy realy quickly (say for example, you do it in software), and your psu design is not able to sink current and has realy fat massive output caps, then your load may see a voltage spike of 50V. But in reality in most cases this should not case a problem, and if it does, you probably know it
Use diodes
Yep, these things are great! If you can believe it they sell one that puts out *** 870 Watts!! ***. I couldn’t resist and bought one for around $50 and use it to control the brightness of a 100W LED. It’s worth mentioning that it’s a buck/boost model so it will quite happily put out 33V with a 20V input. It also stays quite cool at 100W, and at 30W the fan stays off without it feeling even warm. It’s like the other high output models with a separate power board and two ribbon cables to the display. Haven’t had a chance to really push its limits at higher power, but it’s definitely intriguing as an inexpensive supply that can conceivably put out several hundred watts at up to roughly 80V, can’t remember the output voltage limit however it was quite high, with a 15A output limit.
You may also want to test switching the primary while the secondary is supposed off. May be in for some surprises with certain cheap power supplies.
Regards
Yes, please do more videos on these modules, it's interesting.
I think I will finally find a use for this old 24V transfo resting on my rack behind the bench. Just bought the DPS3005 for 43 euros from Amazon.
I put two DPS5005 (sharing a 24V meanwell supply) and a DPS5015 (with a separate 5A 24V supply) in a box for a three-channel supply, and with the separate input supplies it functions as a split supply too. Very happy with it! Also worth checking out github.com/kanflo/opendps but TBH the stock firmware UI doesn't bother me too much. I think I'll update them if I find myself wanting to control or data log over the UART.
I think the opendps doesn;t include current control. Does it?
Ah, thank, thought someone might do their own firmware. But yeah, it's adequate already, not great, but adequate.
You can't control it over UART? I thought that the DPS5015 ha sthis option built in. They are selling those with USB and/or Bluetooth modules and some fancy LabVIEW software.
firewalker there ist a branch that enables current control
Please share!
When I showed a similar module on my channel a while back, the designer left a comment. The firm was called Rui Deng Technologies.
They do the job as long as you don't ask too much. Choice of PSU, obviously the one you already have in a drawer is the best, if you have a choice bear in mind the unit will drop somewhere round 2v so if you want 12v you need a PSU that delivers more than that. I found a couple of old laptop bricks which give 15v and 17v which is an ideal value.
I find the limiters very useful for troubleshooting, the unit looks after itself but it saves frying components
Awesome...I would put the 3 capacitor ac ripple on the inside of the output plugs to clean it up....I remember you covering that a while back...and yes a 19vdc laptop pack would be great
Very interesting little device. I currently have some 1970 era power supplies I've been thinking of modifying into something as useful. The ones I have contain Fero-Resonant isolation transformers. Those coupled with AutoTransformers to get the range of voltages from 0 to 128 VAC or 135 VDC, but no current control and no readout. Glad you did this video FIRST. I can still use the cases these old supplies are in and cut new holes for the modules. No doubt I'd opt for the higher voltage and power ranges just simply for the sake of having something I might need (if ever). I certainly don't need 135 VDC, and I have virtually no idea how much amperage these oldie's are capable of. So it looks like this will be a "Soon to tackle" project. For now, I still have to build my "Marble Machine" for my grandkids and a custom hand made picture frame made from Juniper we cut down two years ago. Busy little beaver here.
I just got my 30V 5A boost/buck converter and two 50V 20A buck converters from banggood. I'm going to build a bit beefier lab supply with those. I'll be using those only for building and testing a few more lab supplies :)
Love to see a power supply build for high power tube systems. Something with 6.3v, 12v, 0 to -150v, 0 to 600v with good amperage on all.
I really like these and recently bought the version with bluetooth and usb after having the regular 50 15. Very inexpensive and capable. Can hardly hear the fan when it's on. Planning to get one of their signal generators soon.
These would make good use of several power adapters I have in a drawer from dead laptops over the years. Now if I only had a project for all the out dated smart phones in the other drawer.
I just wish they had a bridge rectifier and transformer that you can buy to make it complete. These are just dc to dc, so you need a power supply for your power supply.
Reverse engineer the big one please. I like to see how they do it.
ok, many people like this , but it is meaningless
How would it be worth anybody's while, to reverse engineer something that's cheaper than he could get the parts for?
Outstanding! I did not know that these exist. Plan on buying one soon!
Really good module for different volt power supply thanks
Bound to be better than my ghetto bench power supply built from an old computer power supply. 3.3V, 5V, & 12 by default, but I can hook up a cheap adjustable boost converter for other options & check the setting with the multimeter. I've been considering revising the design to have a dedicated adjustable output with a sub $10 multimeter display. I've also been toying with the idea of connecting all the unused 12V lines to a car power outlet so I can power more power-hungry devices.
If the supplies in this video are decent, that might make my bench supply obsolete
Just use a notebook charger and build yourself a decent buck/boost converter
Hi friend
I guss you need the DPH3205, you can see our friends video to DPH3205 ua-cam.com/play/PLNcr2Rj_07PGANRTMdMsFRQWA4wMcLdx2.html
You will know the quality .
recently, we will publish DPH5005. it will be good too
They must be incredibly efficient, I'd love to see them put through tests and also know what switching devices and frequency they use. It reminds me of these little "class D" audio amp modules I see on ebay etc. that put out tens of watts from a tiny little board. Don't know how they're doing it!
i have got the 50v/15A with Bluetooth and Serial connection and it works like a charm. also the pc Programm to control the unit over bluetooth/UART
long press the knob to lock
Oh. My dad bought that module thing. He ordered 2 for the both of use but only one got here :/ Didn't solve our problem because we still need a power supply to power it.
We have this thing we cobbled together with a huge ass transformer, a bunch of diodes and a big capacitor, giving us either 24 or 48V, but everything is just sitting there in open air.
You could probably get a half decent laptop PSU to power it pretty cheap, and save having the shock hazards kicking about for you to touch. Here's one good for 19V and 4.74A, should give you about 18V and at least 4.5A usable range. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-HP-Pavilion-dv3-dv4-dv5-g4-g6-g7-tm2-Laptop-Charger-Adapter-Power-Supply-PSU-/111078181436?hash=item19dcc68a3c:g:o0QAAOSw-29ZSLeg
Hmm, didn't even think of that. I actually have a bunch of laptop PSUS laying around somewhere. Well, those I didn't crack open for parts.
Yeah great would like to see the video of the big one assembled. Waiting on the dsp30v5 unit now
Please do a follow-up building out the beefed up solution you were mentioning. Great video!!
you can go to our channel , there are also many video for DPS power supply
I've got the DPH3205 along with the flat 'box' style case they sell (as opposed to the angled case) and it works great for so many little projects.
Thank you for the info and I like when people videos are nice and loud.
Dude, I was planning on building a couple different power supplies for different voltages. Thank you.
They do these now with bluetooth option and other bits,
There is also an opensource replacement firmware floating about for some of these as well..
Looks good -- and I really appreciate your delivery! Thanks, Dave!
The symbol that Dave said he didn't know that was seen around 6:09 is the logo for the company whose page was shown at 3:39
I have similar module from ebay for 13$ with model number N438+ and it has a voltage range from 0,8v to 24v and current from 0 to 3.200A (everything was tested and confirmed by myself)...
I recommend to buy some bigger heatsink and invest in some computer fan for cooling because it gets pretty hot.
Hi dave, I just made a video about that power supply, but mine is 50v 5a, it works really well
i have that one too but now it has a problem. microcontroller and screen works fine but output over 100ma makes it to reset and restart. havent found anything online , semms i am the only one who has a faulty unit?
Mine give up charging a 12 volt battery totally dead .
Barrybados©. mine came wiht a diode for charging battery
I have the model with USB communication. Great device
Yes i should of added one but i had no idea it needed one .
I have one of those! It works great! I have it on my ATX converted bench power supply.
i would highly recommend filtering at least your input to stop it from radiating all kinds of noise
but these are nice little devices