nice build!! has inspired me to build something similar one suggestion though is to follow best practice for output power connectors. generally, female (plug) type receptacles are used to minimize the chance of short
3:12 - You will need a filter over your fan to keep the dust from going straight through (just sayin’). 10:48 - Guess I should have watched all the way through before commenting (oops!)
I like the overall look and features of the power supply. But I would have put a switch on the fixed power side so I could select from two or more fixed voltages. Maybe 24V, 12V, 5V and 3.3V. The latter three voltages would be the most useful to me.
The cost of all components from Ali is around 50 USD but most of these are bought in bulk and can be found way cheaper so I bet you could bring it down to around 40 if you took the time...
In some high current or high voltage applications it is safer to keep the high voltage and current away from the user and it can be difficult to find switches rated for the current. However with the voltages and currents used here it isn’t an issue so there is no reason to do it.
As @conorstewart2214 said, it is to keep the current and the voltage away from the switch. The switches used are rated up to 5A max and my power supply can output 5A. In such situations it's always recommended to give yourself a little bit more room to not overload the switch and by using a mosfet, I'm triggering the gate pin only which doesn't draw any current. All of the current then goes trought the mosfets which are rated 50A+ and cost cents so It just made sense to add them
Hello, being a novice I have questions, I am in the process of creating the lab power supply and in your diagram there is, in each voltage rail, an inscription 3V3T, or 5VT or 12VT. What does the T stand for? And do you plan to make an oscilloscope afterwards? Thank you for your response
If I buy the 36V 5A power supply and follow your tutorial for the rest, would this still work? I would get the same parts but just change the PSU to 36V.
Well, I'm not sure the power supply module can handle voltage higher than 30V but everything should be listed in the description on the product page. If it doesn't, you can easily search for a replacement unit that does and all connections should remain the same...
Well, the cost of materials could maybe get close to a prebuilt power supply but for me, I had most of the stuff laying around and it's an interesting project... Your learn about 3D modeling, printing, electronics, soldering... Plus, it's always there on your desk and you know YOU made it which makes it so much cooler
I love u men, i was about to build the other one, and now im thinking of building a mix of both
Haha, that's awesome! I'd love to see how it turns out...
nice build!! has inspired me to build something similar
one suggestion though is to follow best practice for output power connectors. generally, female (plug) type receptacles are used to minimize the chance of short
3:12 - You will need a filter over your fan to keep the dust from going straight through (just sayin’).
10:48 - Guess I should have watched all the way through before commenting (oops!)
I like the overall look and features of the power supply. But I would have put a switch on the fixed power side so I could select from two or more fixed voltages. Maybe 24V, 12V, 5V and 3.3V. The latter three voltages would be the most useful to me.
Hey, thanks for the comment! That would be interesting but would require a couple of more components.. Did you have an idea on how to make it work?
Nice video, which one p-channel mosfet are you using, it's no longer on aliexpress
Nice video. Curious why you switch hot and neutral and not just hot.
Well, for the ON/OFF switch LED to work, both live and neutral are required on the AC inlet socket...
@@Djambo57 both are required, but normally only the hot is switched as for a lamp. Just curious why switch both.
Hello bro this is the first video of your channel and love this video carryover who make it soon
Thanks :D
Very cool project ! However, for my needs I'd prefer a fixed 12V output instead of 24V, how could I achieve that ?
you can do that by using a 12V power supply instead of 24V like I did
@@Djambo57 how do you choose the fuse values? Or more simply, what values did you choose?
4:35 nice resistor organizer, do u have 3d files for it?
Very nice build! What 3D printer do you use or recommend?
Really nice build. What is the approximate cost of the components ?
The cost of all components from Ali is around 50 USD but most of these are bought in bulk and can be found way cheaper so I bet you could bring it down to around 40 if you took the time...
@@Djambo57 thanks a lot!
You can try fritzing to draw those schematics
I'll give it a try for sure, thanks :D
Why do you prefer to use mosfets for the buttons?
In some high current or high voltage applications it is safer to keep the high voltage and current away from the user and it can be difficult to find switches rated for the current. However with the voltages and currents used here it isn’t an issue so there is no reason to do it.
As @conorstewart2214 said, it is to keep the current and the voltage away from the switch. The switches used are rated up to 5A max and my power supply can output 5A. In such situations it's always recommended to give yourself a little bit more room to not overload the switch and by using a mosfet, I'm triggering the gate pin only which doesn't draw any current. All of the current then goes trought the mosfets which are rated 50A+ and cost cents so It just made sense to add them
You from Croatia aswell? Do you have any recommended place for buying affordable Li-ions and Lipos?
Hello, being a novice I have questions, I am in the process of creating the lab power supply and in your diagram there is, in each voltage rail, an inscription 3V3T, or 5VT or 12VT. What does the T stand for?
And do you plan to make an oscilloscope afterwards?
Thank you for your response
If I buy the 36V 5A power supply and follow your tutorial for the rest, would this still work? I would get the same parts but just change the PSU to 36V.
Well, I'm not sure the power supply module can handle voltage higher than 30V but everything should be listed in the description on the product page. If it doesn't, you can easily search for a replacement unit that does and all connections should remain the same...
Can we get 30v output
Hi! Yes, totally! It's a buck-boost module so it can both lower and up the voltage coming from the input. It's rated for 0.6-36V on the output
Masz też polski kanał?
Andthe total price comes up equivalent to a pre-built bench power supply from aliexpress.... But still nice project
Well, the cost of materials could maybe get close to a prebuilt power supply but for me, I had most of the stuff laying around and it's an interesting project... Your learn about 3D modeling, printing, electronics, soldering... Plus, it's always there on your desk and you know YOU made it which makes it so much cooler