UPDATE: I screwed up the noise measurement. It's actually way better at about 60mVp-p no load and about 100mVp-p at 6A using a proper scope probe in X10. I was using a BNC cable with banana plugs and forgot the 50ohm series matcher. Oops. Will have to do another video showing this. Good excuse for a video on this topic anyway.
I think for your sensing would be better to use spade lugs and banana instead of the banana over banana, in both cases you are not taking into account the loss from the binding post to the sensing banana. That would be even better than this at higher currents. Also shouldn't matter which is the load and which the sens...
@@EEVblog When I saw 0.5 Vp-p I thought that is worse than some shitty car-plug phone charger for $1.99... Couldn't believe it, my sanity check was telling me it is odd, would be a huge downgrade in their quality but then again, it was Dave himself measuring it with high end equipment... RD buck modules are usually rather nice with noise (for their price), it used to be their buck-boost ones that had like order of magnitude worse performance in that regard. Also that efficiency drop at around 4A, isn't that a ramp up of that small cooling fan?
Apreciaate very much opening yourself to these cheap equipment, cause there are many of us who can't afford expensive equipment that is going to be use in home-entusiast aplications, and having your respectable opinion on these afordable stuff is very very useful. (Sorry my english, from Mexico by the way)
The battery charging terminal includes protection to prevent back-powering the supply if the mains is disconnected, and reverse polarity protection to prevent blowing the crap out of the unit (or at least the fuse) if you connect the battery terminals backwards, which has been a complaint with RD supplies in the past (-_-). You wouldn't normally use it outside of charging applications as it would reduce the efficiency and maximum power handling. Noise issue seemed clearly wrong. If that is switching noise, whats the higher frequency lower magnitude crap between pulses? There shouldn't be that much external noise coupling onto the signal. Also using an adjustable load for such measurements is usually a Bad Idea (tm) Their DPH modules are buck+boost, so you can eg use a 12V or 19V supply and get the full 0-30V output range. I don't think they have an equivalent in their new RD series just yet. The serial connection on the DPS/DPH units used a MODBUS implementation, hence the slave address selection. They do document this protocol quite well. It was fairly easy to build custom software to interact with, and it's supported by third party stuff such as sigrok etc. Looks like these new RD units use the same interface.
The back drive protection is standard on normal outputs on all reasonable lab supplies. There’s exactly zero reason to have a special output for that. It’s silly. It’s a single output supply, it needs a pair of output posts and that’s that. Do it right and no problem. I imagine this one wouldn’t pass my “unboxing” test. I hook lab supply outputs to a car battery, if they smoke they go back in the box and get sent back. Weeds out junk real quick. But even HP didn’t get that right once or twice.
I find it useful as it allows for a near complete disconnect from the battery when I don't want it charging but can still monitor the voltage remotely with the app. The regular port will show a small parasitic draw on the battery when connected with the output turned off, so it would need to be physically disconnected to avoid that. It's a good feature to have available. They just need to ditch the nonstandard backup battery, unless they just have a surplus of those battery holders to use up.
Wow. Forget the PS, i'll buy the case for my own project. That's a nice case and way cheaper than a similar project case from Digi-key. And it comes with accessories.
My marketing manager learned not to mess with random knobs when she blew up an important prototype, losing our biggest customer and almost burning down the lab.
28:52 I feel like this interface was designed by a technician from Hyundai. I rented one of their cars last year and was BLOWN AWAY by the thought that went into everything. Their menus and options were highly intuitive and allowed a lot of customization. Not only that, but the steering wheel controls, the media unit, the side panel controls, adaptive cruise control, it was amazing. I just really wish other companies put that kind of effort into their design and think about how the consumer will actually use the product - like the buttons and knob not doing anything unless you select a function to avoid marketing manager idiots.
15:25 the reason they do not have an enter button on the scroll knob is because you are very likely to rotate the knob while pressing it, thereby messing up with your settings. It's human tendency and I think a seperate enter button is perfect.. although I would have appreciated a dedicated enter button right below the knob.
33:40 The only difference I could tell with battery mode via the green post is that it actually shuts down the output when the battery reaches the desired full charge level as opposed to a regular power supply or when using the red output post.
I just tested it and it's just basic CC/CV functionality, but it does seem it has a shutdown at that low value, but I haven't confirmed that on my unit yet.
EEVblog On the “RD Tech” youtube channel they have an operations video which goes loosly over the battery charging at minute 3:10. It’s very basic. Accumilating amp hour statistics and auto shutoff at 10mA. Hopefully they will extend that in firmware at some point.
I'm not sure this thing is worth getting over the venerable KA3005 Korad(or rebrand) power supply, unless you already have a bulky DC supply itching for a front panel, but even then, korads, for around the same price($100-150 for everything) are fully linear power supplies.
RND 320-KA3005P i bought this one Just a Rebrand for 86,90 from germany it does everything it needs to do and even with charging battery cells it works great also software control through Windows/Linux i was thinking about this power supply aswell but went for the germany one because of warranty faster shipping and it getting Good reviews even with abusing it with big motors using startup power of over 100 watts its keeps going like a champ
@@Pixelchaos I bought the same RND model as well! Can confirm, identical to korad and works just as well. The fan is a bit wonky... but at least it's temperature-controlled.
I just bought the RND branded KA3305P for €144 ex VAT free shipping. So that's the 2 channel Programmable one (+5v output). So If you're in the market for a dual programmable power supply this is for sure a cheaper alternative that is linear as well.
I have this exact same - from 8-1-2020 - exact same settings, both USB and WIFI, all works just fine. The "virus" is concerned, it has NO VIRUS in the software, at least not when I scanned it with MS-Antivirus and AVG + some other scanning softwares, found 0 viruses! For the money it is a great value! It isn't for everyone - like the noise problems, but for most people this shouldn't cause any problems. Thanks for the video.
I have an old 19V laptop power supply (60W I think), all I need is a panelmount DC barrel jack into the smaller case and I should have a handy little bench supply. Looking forward to this. Thanks for doing the thorough review!
If you use the jog wheel, you can change the vertical scale. This is useful for monitoring the current draw on your prototype devices, so you can easily determine what kind of power pack and fuse you can get away with.
@@rdtech9153 Got it - I understand that the measurement was done incorrectly. I was more asking for a general video on output filtering that is not related to your product. I asked because I built a 2000 volt switching power supply and was not happy with the amount of ripple I was seeing after the voltage multiplier. I have inductors in the output path but I suspect they are not big enough.
Amazing. I paid $200 10 years ago for a USED 60V 10A B&K lab supply that is rack mount and makes me take a deep breath and grunt when I have to move it. I just love the size and price of hobby-grade electronics gear these days. From sig gens, to VNA's, to scopes, to power supplies, I find myself slowly shifting from using my boat anchor HP gear to this cheap, small stuff for anything that doesn't require max precision. And very little ever does.
36:04 My plan for a DIY hack-together is an old desktop PSU and I'll attach a boost converter board for instances I need more than 24V on my table. --Literally, I built a table, so far just with outlets and a couple switches, but I plan to incorporate the DIY lab bench underneath and "pipe" the power right onto the main work surface with banana plugs. Right now it's basically a soldering station and I've got a hot glue gun holster, but I plan to expand. Modular designs are very desirable to me, I want to ultimately plumb it with exhaust, propane, and an air line hooked to a compressor in another room, all with quick connect fittings so I can hook up multiple benches with perhaps 6ft hoses so I can arrange them in a garage, maybe with casters for easy moving and a welding bench - this is getting out of hand.
Incredibly deceiving title when you factor in the price of the case and actual power supply. It's really a $160 power supply. I've seen some actual $50-$60 bench power supplies for sale, would love to see a video on one of those.
Agree. Think this is only the second of Dave's videos I've ever thumbed down (and I've watched them all over the years.) Just came across as one long advert for a an overpriced pile of junk. A brand new Tenmar unit would better this in every area, and cost less.
I mean, it isn't too hard to find a working pc power supply for cheap or even free, and the case you could make it yourself with any metal box, I made mine with a scrap sound amplifier I found in a dumpster. You only need to be creative.
@@hasenlamano But then you'd only get a maximum of 11V output (probably a lot less), high current but only a few volts. I've seen 30V 3A complete bench supplies for sale for $50. This is an UP TO 360W power supply CONTROLLER for $50, that's what I meant.
You are awesome, Dave. Men like you should live forever. Then we would have videos from you forever. I guess we would all have to live forever. I'm up for that. Anyone? ;-) Thank You for your spirited delivery and "bottomless" knowledge.
I was considering buying one of these from Banggood where it was $10 cheaper than this AliExpress price, but I don’t have a high voltage DC power supply that could make full use of this thing’s output, and to buy a power supply would double the overall price. I did get one of those tiny little bench power supplies and have it connected to a big 24 volt power supply, and it works surprisingly well with excellent accuracy.
If you require a PSU for projects such as Arduino, Raspberry Pi, USB circuits, maybe TTL circuits, this is a perfect power supply. All you need is a spare laptop charger in your junk box powering it. Oh the arrangement can then be used for charging different Lithium, NiCad batteries too. If you need PSU for audio circuits, telecom circuits then this unit is not for you. You need linear not switched PSUs. Thinking out loudly, why will a C-L-C filter at the output ( the C values in pF, and L in micro Henries) not filter the output noise?
That 24V power supply I have running that little lab power supply (the Ruideng DP50V5A special from Banggood) is an old telecom transformer with various taps so in that case it is linear. But I don't have anything that can put 60 or 70 volts to this lab power supply. I wouldn't be using it for any sort of serious audio circuits. It would just be for tinkering with circuits on the bench, with a bit more features than the tiny one.
19:03 If it's bolted to the enclosure, I think the screws would provide enough contact for grounding, might not need to scrape the paint, but definitely would test it in diode mode with a meter. Cheers mate, I've seen a few of your videos before and have glanced over the UA-cam recommendations because I didn't wasn't in the mood to think in depth. The few videos I watched tonight were very interesting and I look forward to your more recent and upcoming videos. I see a 2kw PSU video is "up next", _ctrl+click_ that into a new tab for later.
It's been mentioned once already, but I thought I'd bump the observation: The fuse clip in the 48v supply needs some attention. It's noticeably bent and may prove to be an imminent failure point.
Must be a supply issue, since the chassis and PSU are multi-purpose, they probably have more of them in stock. I ordered mine all at the same time shortly after this video posted, but though I got the chassis and power supply, in December, I only got my RD6006 a few days ago. So far though, I'm enjoying mine. Used the graph setting to record current changes as I was testing a forced-feedback joystick (didn't come with it's power adapter). Very handy for testing your prototype device so you can see what kind of power supply and fuse you can get away with in practical usage.
15:44...close, but no cigar...I know, you're trying to keep it clean, but it only works proper if you use the right words for Focusing...AvE isn't wrong...LOL
@@hxhdfjifzirstc894 I'm german. But I catch myself often also use "Fooocus you Faack" when my camera doesn't want to. But focus you bastard is the UK style of saying it. :D
Interesting PSU. The DC input is great for me as I run my inverters off a 48V DC battery system here so I can just add another breaker to the LVD :) I'll hang on a little first to see if anything can be done with the output noise before I get one.
Nice video, This help tip me over into buying a 6012 and 6018, which have the same noise levels as the 6006 (at the same current level) the noise only rises after that with 160mv p-p at 14vdc 10a, and increases rather linearly. You can disassemble it, as the banana posts while soldered have cutouts in the front panel, so they can just pull out of the front panel with out desoldering.
I have a mean well beast brick. 48V 10A It's fan runs constantly from power on. However... if you put it under duress the fan has a LOT more to go. At idle it's at minimum. I remember getting it really going using an RDTech module to charge a high charge rate Lipo at 12.6V 20A. It didn't take long for the fan noise to get much, much worse from both the PSU and the DC Brick. On the other end, I use an RDTech to manage a 12V solar feed for bench use. It's 5Amp and I never use half that, so I just cut it's fan lead with a pair of cutters and decided to install a thermal cut in later... it's still termporarilly fixed.
Well had it over 12 months now and still pleased with it. I have used it hard charging some big batteries. So have pushed to limits and still going. I did get the full Monty with all the suggested units direct Tom manufacturers. Good review nearly need to watch the follow up 😂
Maybe someone else mentioned this, but the Mean Well RS-320-48v power supply referenced in the video has been replaced with a newer model: LRS-350-48 and the price is lower! Not sure if it's better or worse, but the newer model is readily available for quite a bit less.
An ATX power supply is limited to 12V output, and with a 2.5V overhead, the RD6006 would only output a maximum of 9.5V. It can still be done, but it's more practical to just take a fuse, a salvaged transformer, a bridge rectifier, and a few electrolytic capacitors to just rig up your own supply if you don't want to buy theirs. There are plenty of cheap interfaces on eBay that connect to a 20-24 pin ATX connector with bannana-screw terminals and a power switch. The concept is as simple as can be, since to turn an ATX supply on, all you need to do is connect a switch between pin 14 and any of the ground pins. I've been doing that for years with old AT supplies.
Yeah, their extra fan in the case that always runs is a Ruideng specialty. Same for the older, smaller cases. I just made a fan duct for the load-controlled fan on the device to make that one suck the air into the case.
Without proper forced airflow between the PSU and case walls, that might be worse; if the thermal connection between MeanWell and outer case is good enough and there can be better airflow at the outside of the case, the outer case might work better as the heatsink (extension). In fact, IIRC, a bit similar MeanWell model that I have actually instructs about how one side can be screwed directly to the outer case (or to a proper heatsink) for heatsink purposes.
@@markkuhassinen5745 I think the rear fan in the case would be enough forced airflow to the MeanWell. I don't like the idea of using powder painted thin steel plate as a heatsink.
@@mrnmrn1 That certainly can work, especially if one adds some airflow guidance so more air flows through the narrower gap, as typically standoffs that are rigid enough are only around 5mm, maybe up to 8mm. If the other side has all the rest of free space, most of the airflow will go that easier path. But having only standoffs and a backside fan might leave it better to attach directly the case. Difficult to estimate, though. Also the PSU's own fan my affect the airflow, for better or worse. That particular model doesn't state about the attachment to the sides like the documentation on the model I have, but its insides looks similarly arranged. The hottest parts are attached to the sides (although annoyingly so that the hottest spots' metal is set deeper, so can not get good contact on those as easily, unless the heatsink is small enough), so it might be more beneficial to squeeze some proper heatsinks against the sides and direct air flow through those. There is enough space for such arrangement in that case. Obviously, many choices, but the PSU seems to be rated to work even "as is" without additional arrangements, as long as its own fan gets proper flow and is not heated by other sources.
Well, my RD6006 finally arrived a few days ago, with the chassis and 60V DC supply arriving sometime mid December, though I ordered all three at the same time. So far, I'm really liking this thing. I got the 60V supply, so with the forward voltage from the regulator itself, it's maximum output is 58.48V DC at 6.1A. The DR6006 unit will take up to 70v in. The graph display is actually pretty useful, because if you use the jog wheel, you can change the vertical scale (notice the division readout at the bottom) and see the amperage and wattage, so you can plot your device's current draw over certain times of it's usage and determine what kind of power supply and fuse your prototype device will need (you could calculate that before hand, but you could end up with something way overblown for what you actually need). I was just using it as a makeshift supply to test a force feedback joystick, and was able to graph the current change when I moved the stick. Presumably this kind of logging is what the software should be used for, but with the antivirus complaining like that, I'd use an isolated system if you need to interface with it. At least until somebody can reverse-engineer the code and determine that there's nothing untowards going on. It should be noted that there is other software from more reputable sources that recommends that you disable the antivirus while you install it, so this isn't exactly anything new. It may be nothing of concern, but exercise caution until you know for sure. I also discovered that the voltage monitor works even when the supply is off. Probably for the battery charge function. I wouldn't use it for a multi-meter, but that's a curiosity. The chassis and power supply fans only go on initially at startup, and thereafter only when they're needed, so it's completely silent when on standby. That would probably change if I find something to do with it that requires higher current, but with what I'm doing, it runs pretty quiet. So far, it seems like a good buy if you get the components on sale. About $170 CDN for the whole lot on sale (on Banggood.com), including shipping, which is far cheaper than a comparable name brand supply, even off of eBay. We'll have to see how well it holds up over time, but based on what I've experienced so far, and Dave's own review, I'd definitely recommend this for electronics hobbyists looking to get their lab going at an affordable price.
Also, thanks Dave on the reminder about the OVP. My RDtech for the bench supplies my headphone amp. It's input bulk cap is a 16V 400uF. That little PSU will happily with a spin of a knob put out 50V. BANG goes that cap inside my headphone amp case.... and anything else similarly limited on that rail which may NOT be in a case. I should set it to 16V as a secondary protection against "Whooopsies". If I need more it will remind me to clear off the other devices from the rail first.
@@ElecDashTronDotOrg Not everyone needs to power this from AC mains. Some people may want to power it from batteries, or some existing 48V power source. Is your use-case the ONLY use-case for everyone?
The white thingy on the heatsink is a thermal switch (klixon) that cuts mains power if the heatsink gets too hot. The regulation for the fan is done elsewhere.
That meanwell PSU is using temperature switch for the fan and those sometimes take a while to switch off. It also might be doing some current detection.
The previous little one psus came with a diode and the instruction to use it to charge batteries otherwise the battery could discharge and damage the circuit when power is off. I think that the green battery post has that diode in series.
I think the idea is that you can just use it with whatever large wall-wart you have lying around. Or gang multiple RD6006 units together with a large DC supply in a single chassis to make a multi-output regulated power supply.
bought one of these from AliExpress... it works ok, but the fit and finish aren't great. One screw came pre-stripped, the on/off switch to the power supply is intermittent (so I just leave it on and use the plug) the power supply module to frame connection isnt tight, so every time I connect and disconnect leads the front plate wiggles. But it puts out power in a controlled manner to do all sorts of projects, so, good for the money I suppose.
I got the chassis and power supply within a couple weeks (ordered shortly after this video was posted). The RD6006 just arrived a few days ago. Probably a supply issue. The power supply and chassis can be used for other projects, so they probably have more of them in stock.
I saw someone testing the current limiting and I guess the output caps are not directly across the output because he was about to hook up like a 5mm led with it on already with no problems
I'm also using the new 24A version, still in the same form factor incredibly. Throw it in some case with a 60V low amps supply and through the magic of buck, you still get 24A out of at low voltages - unbeatable for the like 50$ that I paid ...
Got the parts and assembled it tonight. Got the recommended AC power supply from the Aliexpress posting. And despite having a sticker next to the fan saying the PSU have built-in fan on-off control the bloody fan runs all the time. With the case on, the noice was even worse. Since I'm not ever going to be pushing 300 watts through this PSU in my litte lab, I just disconnected the fan, and now its nice and quiet.Taped the internal temperature probe to the case of the AC Power brick, so I can monitor it's temperature on the Display. Also attached the sensor of the little board controlling the case fan to the PSU, so it'll turn on if the metal gets hot. If it dies because if this it's just 30 bucks after all, and peace of mind / lack of fan noice is worth it.
Looks like RD6006 is a hot topic on UA-cam right now. Multiple UA-camrs made videos about it and got into my feed even though I'm not watching them and haven't watched this video at that point.
Hello! Excellent Vid! Came to comment that the 2x4 female terminal on the back end looks exactly like one designed to fit an NRF24L01 Wifi module! Looks like the pins match up as well as the fact it runs on 3.3v as seen in the vid. I hope this helps!
I can certainly see some uses for this but frankly a bench power supply is one of my most valued tools and I really can't see going cheap on it. The last thing you need when troubleshooting are problems induced by noisy power. I notice you have a pretty good one also. 4 tools I suggest guys pay a little more and get a quality product are soldering irons, power supplies, scope and a good meter. Open up say a Tektronix bench power supply and do a side by side.
When you unscrewed the negative binding post I noticed the hole was horizontal, pointing at the next binding post. The holes should always be orthogonal to the alignment of the binding posts to prevent shorting and also make them easier to use.
I've ordered the components also , it it on it's way, 2 are in the destination country and 1 (the PSU) is in a airplane , so i think i can build it soon, ordered the recommended power supply so al should be well.
Uranium is an interesting case since it is thought to be formed in a supernova. Definitely fusion but not the typical direct release of energy from fusion as in the sun.
I think there are lots better choices than this. Too many useless features and not enough basic function. By the time you have this configured to provide 360W output you'd be into it for $200, and you'd still have all that noise. There is a thing on eBay called the Dr.Meter triple Variable linear DC power supply that provides 0-30V@5A + 0-30V@5A + 5V@3A. You can series the adjustable outputs for 0-60V@5A or parallel them for 0-30V@10A. That's a total of 315W. A buddy of mine bought one ($200) and it gets the job done. Construction was not perfect, but we spent about an hour rectifying things to our satisfaction. Less time than it would take to fully configure one of these switchmode things in a nice case and input power for 360W out. Far more real life versatility too. They can keep their RD6006 as far as I'm concerned.
Don't know if they fixed it but we had problems with Win's auto install version of the CH340 driver a couple years back. The official one works perfect.
It's also around half the price of something with similar specs/features, sure you can find some super cheap bench PSUs from china at ~$50 but they're equally pretty low quality and for at least a few people those have even caught on fire, also personally I have a couple spare computer PSUs so pair that with a $5 boost converter and it could power it at v30-v40 easily.
Well, my RD6006 finally arrived a few days ago, with the chassis and 60V DC supply arriving sometime mid December, though I ordered all three at the same time. So far, I'm really liking this thing. I got the 60V supply, so with the forward voltage from the regulator itself, it's maximum output is 58.48V DC at 6.1A. The DR6006 unit will take up to 70v in. The graph display is actually pretty useful, because if you use the jog wheel, you can change the vertical scale (notice the division readout at the bottom) and see the amperage and wattage, so you can plot your device's current draw over certain times of it's usage. I was just using it as a makeshift supply to test a force feedback joystick, and was able to graph the current change when I moved the stick. Presumably this kind of logging is what the software should be used for, but with the antivirus complaining like that, I'd use an isolated system if you need to interface with it. At least until somebody can reverse-engineer the code and determine that there's nothing untowards going on. It should be noted that there is other software from more reputable sources that recommends that you disable the antivirus while you install it, so this isn't exactly anything new. It may be nothing of concern, but exercise caution until you know for sure. I also discovered that the voltage monitor works even when the supply is off. Probably for the battery charge function. I wouldn't use it for a multi-meter, but that's a curiosity. The chassis and power supply fans only go on initially at startup, and thereafter only when they're needed, so it's completely silent when on standby. That would probably change if I find something to do with it that requires higher current, but with what I'm doing, it runs pretty quiet. So far, it seems like a good buy if you get the components on sale. About $160 CDN for the whole lot on sale, including shipping, which is far cheaper than a comparable name brand supply, even off of eBay. We'll have to see how well it holds up over time, but based on what I've experienced so far, and Dave's own review, I'd definitely recommend this for electronics hobbyists looking to get their lab going at an affordable price.
Charging most chemistries is just CC/CV (with a cutoff after minimal charging current is reached if you want to be fancy), so 99% of bench PSUs are perfectly fine for that. Given how many people blew up their earlier models by connecting the battery the wrong way around or without proper voltage set, I'm willing to bet the battery terminal just has a built in diode (possibly with it's voltage drop compensated)
31:08 I have DPS 5005, it has well documented modbus protocol, really easy to work with (from programmers perspective). This one is probably more of the same. 37:02 Check your files, mine's called "DPS5005 CNC Communication Protocol V1.2.docx" (supports only modbus read/write register and write multiple registers, but they exported practically everything, there are some 20+ registers so you can set or read everything (e.g. set OV/OC, power ON/OFF, backlight brightness, memory presets, etc etc))
Simplifying the colour scheme saves memory. and simplifies design. What colours would you have? I'm also into retro computing, so I don't mind the CGA colour pallet.
The battery charger is a joke, WIFI not working, USB interface is broken...You can buy decent stand-alone bench power supplies for ~ $150 USD. IMHO this thing is NOT worth it.
A few years ago I ordered some lithium pouch cells, and one had free usb charger modules taped strategic so a when they xray it would look like it was installed. I got a makerphone and the lipo was connected to the pcb just so they could ship it.
The battery regulations are a load of bureaucratic bull shit. As long as they're packaged securely in a rigid box, there is no problem. And a tiny coin cell is never going to explode anyway.
Simon Tay If uninstalled lithium batteries are shipped bare in the air, it needs to be in a fire proof container. Not feasible to check how everything is packaged. Doesn't cost much more if you find a carrier who does it. However, I have no clue why it wouldn't be able to be shipped with it. Installed batteries really have no issues with being shipped.
CR-2032 Batteries, made by Panasonic are dirt cheap on Amazon. Buy a shitload of them for abut $8 and have them for the rest of your life. :-) www.amazon.com/Panasonic-Lithium-Battery-20-Batteries/dp/B015JR47T8/ref=sxin_2_osp59-efea6d05_cov?ascsubtag=efea6d05-8c9c-4ab2-8216-75945b7e05e2&creativeASIN=B015JR47T8&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.efea6d05-8c9c-4ab2-8216-75945b7e05e2&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=cr-2032&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B015JR47T8&pd_rd_r=397176c3-fac4-4c35-9d86-c3106a49f4ca&pd_rd_w=2gWfd&pd_rd_wg=hLR5O&pf_rd_p=a23a388c-add5-49df-b293-a31ade89c6bf&pf_rd_r=TQSMRJ1JSKG9JEN95G5E&qid=1574923067&tag=tbonsite-20
you said the PC software ? there is not virus , someone have explained that , we add some code to avoid decode, so some system detect it as virus, but in fact, it is not ,but don't worry, it will be a new version, all system will accept it , not take it as virus .. please wait some day, it should be finished in this week
@Rd Tech - You mean prevent reverse engineering the .exe? Why bother, and why is the control protocol a secret and not something simple like SCPI? It won't take long for someone to just sniff the serial data protocol and then write a driver for sigrok or python. Much more useful than some lockdown windows only app with virus rubbish. I don't know of any (pro) test instruments that come with a control interface, GPIB, USB-TMC, serial, LXI that do not have a published control protocol.
@@Drew-Dastardly thank you for your suggest, it is just a protection, we will provide the communication protocol later, but if we do not set any protection, you know in China, you can get cheap copy in a few days, sorry for that, though it is still useless if you have skills to do that
UPDATE: I screwed up the noise measurement. It's actually way better at about 60mVp-p no load and about 100mVp-p at 6A using a proper scope probe in X10. I was using a BNC cable with banana plugs and forgot the 50ohm series matcher. Oops. Will have to do another video showing this. Good excuse for a video on this topic anyway.
oopsie
EEVblog is this a better reading than you originally thought? I don’t remember what you said in the video. 🙈
I think for your sensing would be better to use spade lugs and banana instead of the banana over banana, in both cases you are not taking into account the loss from the binding post to the sensing banana. That would be even better than this at higher currents. Also shouldn't matter which is the load and which the sens...
@@MrOrangeman18 Yes, way better reading. IIRC equivalent to the other RD Tech modules.
@@EEVblog When I saw 0.5 Vp-p I thought that is worse than some shitty car-plug phone charger for $1.99... Couldn't believe it, my sanity check was telling me it is odd, would be a huge downgrade in their quality but then again, it was Dave himself measuring it with high end equipment... RD buck modules are usually rather nice with noise (for their price), it used to be their buck-boost ones that had like order of magnitude worse performance in that regard.
Also that efficiency drop at around 4A, isn't that a ramp up of that small cooling fan?
Apreciaate very much opening yourself to these cheap equipment, cause there are many of us who can't afford expensive equipment that is going to be use in home-entusiast aplications, and having your respectable opinion on these afordable stuff is very very useful. (Sorry my english, from Mexico by the way)
well said
I've been enjoying mine so far.
I am from the Uk and you're english is better than mine .
Well said!
Great English
English just fine. Comment on target. Well said.
The battery charging terminal includes protection to prevent back-powering the supply if the mains is disconnected, and reverse polarity protection to prevent blowing the crap out of the unit (or at least the fuse) if you connect the battery terminals backwards, which has been a complaint with RD supplies in the past (-_-). You wouldn't normally use it outside of charging applications as it would reduce the efficiency and maximum power handling.
Noise issue seemed clearly wrong. If that is switching noise, whats the higher frequency lower magnitude crap between pulses? There shouldn't be that much external noise coupling onto the signal. Also using an adjustable load for such measurements is usually a Bad Idea (tm)
Their DPH modules are buck+boost, so you can eg use a 12V or 19V supply and get the full 0-30V output range. I don't think they have an equivalent in their new RD series just yet.
The serial connection on the DPS/DPH units used a MODBUS implementation, hence the slave address selection. They do document this protocol quite well. It was fairly easy to build custom software to interact with, and it's supported by third party stuff such as sigrok etc. Looks like these new RD units use the same interface.
you are right ...
I blew out a supply doing just that. whoopsi
The back drive protection is standard on normal outputs on all reasonable lab supplies. There’s exactly zero reason to have a special output for that. It’s silly. It’s a single output supply, it needs a pair of output posts and that’s that. Do it right and no problem. I imagine this one wouldn’t pass my “unboxing” test. I hook lab supply outputs to a car battery, if they smoke they go back in the box and get sent back. Weeds out junk real quick. But even HP didn’t get that right once or twice.
I find it useful as it allows for a near complete disconnect from the battery when I don't want it charging but can still monitor the voltage remotely with the app. The regular port will show a small parasitic draw on the battery when connected with the output turned off, so it would need to be physically disconnected to avoid that.
It's a good feature to have available.
They just need to ditch the nonstandard backup battery, unless they just have a surplus of those battery holders to use up.
Wow. Forget the PS, i'll buy the case for my own project. That's a nice case and way cheaper than a similar project case from Digi-key. And it comes with accessories.
Yeah, good point.
Looks like they have the case for sale under "S06A Case". ~$30.
Isogen so basically you pay like $20 for the other stuff
Jake Mitch
No the case + the regulater/controller is about $80.
Conservator I realized that after I typed it but didn't want to go back and find the comment I posted this to
Oh I do so hate it when our marketing manager comes over and twiddles with my knob... so annoying.
My marketing manager is a girl, she can mess with my knob anytime.
And does!
@@kevinbroderick3779 is still waiting, any time now and she will come mess with his knob....any time...any...time..
My marketing manager learned not to mess with random knobs when she blew up an important prototype, losing our biggest customer and almost burning down the lab.
Really are adult people so dumb out there? Touching knobs doing stuff they do not understand at all? :facepalm:
28:52 I feel like this interface was designed by a technician from Hyundai. I rented one of their cars last year and was BLOWN AWAY by the thought that went into everything. Their menus and options were highly intuitive and allowed a lot of customization. Not only that, but the steering wheel controls, the media unit, the side panel controls, adaptive cruise control, it was amazing. I just really wish other companies put that kind of effort into their design and think about how the consumer will actually use the product - like the buttons and knob not doing anything unless you select a function to avoid marketing manager idiots.
Tell me more.
My experience with modern UIs has left not just a bitter taste, but a blasted hellscape
Chinese UI's are totally crap on every level. Valid for all (non stolen) firmware and software.
15:25 the reason they do not have an enter button on the scroll knob is because you are very likely to rotate the knob while pressing it, thereby messing up with your settings. It's human tendency and I think a seperate enter button is perfect.. although I would have appreciated a dedicated enter button right below the knob.
knob
33:40 The only difference I could tell with battery mode via the green post is that it actually shuts down the output when the battery reaches the desired full charge level as opposed to a regular power supply or when using the red output post.
I didn't let it go long enough to find out. That's ok, but doesn't take into account various charging topologies.
I just tested it and it's just basic CC/CV functionality, but it does seem it has a shutdown at that low value, but I haven't confirmed that on my unit yet.
@@EEVblog I think it only cuts off when current drops to 10% of set value or maybe 10mA mostly good for Lithium cells.
@@electrodacus That's the thing, it doesn't tell you any of this.
EEVblog On the “RD Tech” youtube channel they have an operations video which goes loosly over the battery charging at minute 3:10.
It’s very basic. Accumilating amp hour statistics and auto shutoff at 10mA. Hopefully they will extend that in firmware at some point.
I'm not sure this thing is worth getting over the venerable KA3005 Korad(or rebrand) power supply, unless you already have a bulky DC supply itching for a front panel, but even then, korads, for around the same price($100-150 for everything) are fully linear power supplies.
RND 320-KA3005P i bought this one Just a Rebrand for 86,90 from germany it does everything it needs to do and even with charging battery cells it works great also software control through Windows/Linux i was thinking about this power supply aswell but went for the germany one because of warranty faster shipping and it getting Good reviews even with abusing it with big motors using startup power of over 100 watts its keeps going like a champ
@@Pixelchaos I bought the same RND model as well! Can confirm, identical to korad and works just as well.
The fan is a bit wonky... but at least it's temperature-controlled.
I just bought the RND branded KA3305P for €144 ex VAT free shipping.
So that's the 2 channel Programmable one (+5v output).
So If you're in the market for a dual programmable power supply this is for sure a cheaper alternative that is linear as well.
6018 model does 18A@60V. That's not even remotely comparable to 5A@30v of your Korad.
I have this exact same - from 8-1-2020 - exact same settings, both USB and WIFI, all works just fine. The "virus" is concerned, it has NO VIRUS in the software, at least not when I scanned it with MS-Antivirus and AVG + some other scanning softwares, found 0 viruses! For the money it is a great value! It isn't for everyone - like the noise problems, but for most people this shouldn't cause any problems. Thanks for the video.
For the price, not a bad deal.
I have an old 19V laptop power supply (60W I think), all I need is a panelmount DC barrel jack into the smaller case and I should have a handy little bench supply. Looking forward to this. Thanks for doing the thorough review!
The voltage graph display mode is obviously for charging batteries and tracking their charge progress!
If you use the jog wheel, you can change the vertical scale. This is useful for monitoring the current draw on your prototype devices, so you can easily determine what kind of power pack and fuse you can get away with.
Would definitely be interested in an output filtering video. Thanks for the review!
A decently sized common mode inductor would work.
Does not need one, Dave was not measuring correctly.
he already made one , but he did not use the *1 probe , our test is to use *1 probe and 20M bandwidth
@@rdtech9153 Got it - I understand that the measurement was done incorrectly. I was more asking for a general video on output filtering that is not related to your product. I asked because I built a 2000 volt switching power supply and was not happy with the amount of ripple I was seeing after the voltage multiplier. I have inductors in the output path but I suspect they are not big enough.
@@vincei4252 got it, I misunderstand it before
The drop in efficiency at 4A is when the fan turns on - it is current controlled, not temperature controlled
It's definitely temperature controlled. You can heat up the unit to get it to turn on
it was also control by temperature too
@@sdgelectronics yes...
Amazing. I paid $200 10 years ago for a USED 60V 10A B&K lab supply that is rack mount and makes me take a deep breath and grunt when I have to move it. I just love the size and price of hobby-grade electronics gear these days. From sig gens, to VNA's, to scopes, to power supplies, I find myself slowly shifting from using my boat anchor HP gear to this cheap, small stuff for anything that doesn't require max precision. And very little ever does.
I've been waiting for your review of these, I was holding off buying until now. Thanks!
Great day in the morning! Your knowledge is IMPECCABLE! Cheers my friend! Thanks for the knowledge.
Battery wasn't included for shipping reasons.
Yep, likely.
Does it have a Clock or something why do it need a coin cell battery
@@Rainbow__cookie yes, it has a realtime-clock, as you can see on the top of the display.
@@NerdyNEET Maybe? Most likely.
Now you know why the wifi module comes in at 4$.
36:04 My plan for a DIY hack-together is an old desktop PSU and I'll attach a boost converter board for instances I need more than 24V on my table. --Literally, I built a table, so far just with outlets and a couple switches, but I plan to incorporate the DIY lab bench underneath and "pipe" the power right onto the main work surface with banana plugs.
Right now it's basically a soldering station and I've got a hot glue gun holster, but I plan to expand. Modular designs are very desirable to me, I want to ultimately plumb it with exhaust, propane, and an air line hooked to a compressor in another room, all with quick connect fittings so I can hook up multiple benches with perhaps 6ft hoses so I can arrange them in a garage, maybe with casters for easy moving and a welding bench - this is getting out of hand.
Wow, Literally was looking at one of these on ban good last night! So glad you made a video!!
Seems very decent for the price.
You are awesome Dave, Thank you for all your videos, I love watching and learning from them.
Incredibly deceiving title when you factor in the price of the case and actual power supply. It's really a $160 power supply. I've seen some actual $50-$60 bench power supplies for sale, would love to see a video on one of those.
my thoughts exactly. Value is being way over-egged.
Agree. Think this is only the second of Dave's videos I've ever thumbed down (and I've watched them all over the years.)
Just came across as one long advert for a an overpriced pile of junk.
A brand new Tenmar unit would better this in every area, and cost less.
I mean, it isn't too hard to find a working pc power supply for cheap or even free, and the case you could make it yourself with any metal box, I made mine with a scrap sound amplifier I found in a dumpster. You only need to be creative.
@@hasenlamano ....and have nothing better to do
@@hasenlamano But then you'd only get a maximum of 11V output (probably a lot less), high current but only a few volts. I've seen 30V 3A complete bench supplies for sale for $50. This is an UP TO 360W power supply CONTROLLER for $50, that's what I meant.
You are awesome, Dave. Men like you should live forever. Then we would have videos from you forever. I guess we would all have to live forever. I'm up for that. Anyone? ;-) Thank You for your spirited delivery and "bottomless" knowledge.
Yes please make a video fixing the noise, my bet is the MOSFET or Diode needs a ferrite bead slipping over it.
And a common mode inductor on the output.
I'll be impressed if it can be included inside the case.
I was considering buying one of these from Banggood where it was $10 cheaper than this AliExpress price, but I don’t have a high voltage DC power supply that could make full use of this thing’s output, and to buy a power supply would double the overall price. I did get one of those tiny little bench power supplies and have it connected to a big 24 volt power supply, and it works surprisingly well with excellent accuracy.
If you require a PSU for projects such as Arduino, Raspberry Pi, USB circuits, maybe TTL circuits, this is a perfect power supply. All you need is a spare laptop charger in your junk box powering it. Oh the arrangement can then be used for charging different Lithium, NiCad batteries too.
If you need PSU for audio circuits, telecom circuits then this unit is not for you. You need linear not switched PSUs.
Thinking out loudly, why will a C-L-C filter at the output ( the C values in pF, and L in micro Henries) not filter the output noise?
That 24V power supply I have running that little lab power supply (the Ruideng DP50V5A special from Banggood) is an old telecom transformer with various taps so in that case it is linear. But I don't have anything that can put 60 or 70 volts to this lab power supply. I wouldn't be using it for any sort of serious audio circuits. It would just be for tinkering with circuits on the bench, with a bit more features than the tiny one.
Just built one last night :-)
Works well so far!
19:03 If it's bolted to the enclosure, I think the screws would provide enough contact for grounding, might not need to scrape the paint, but definitely would test it in diode mode with a meter.
Cheers mate, I've seen a few of your videos before and have glanced over the UA-cam recommendations because I didn't wasn't in the mood to think in depth. The few videos I watched tonight were very interesting and I look forward to your more recent and upcoming videos. I see a 2kw PSU video is "up next", _ctrl+click_ that into a new tab for later.
It's been mentioned once already, but I thought I'd bump the observation: The fuse clip in the 48v supply needs some attention. It's noticeably bent and may prove to be an imminent failure point.
Yep, I noticed that and pushed it in properly.
For the first time I have something before EEVBLOG. I'm quite happy with mine. The recommended power supply is taking ages to ship though.
Must be a supply issue, since the chassis and PSU are multi-purpose, they probably have more of them in stock. I ordered mine all at the same time shortly after this video posted, but though I got the chassis and power supply, in December, I only got my RD6006 a few days ago.
So far though, I'm enjoying mine. Used the graph setting to record current changes as I was testing a forced-feedback joystick (didn't come with it's power adapter). Very handy for testing your prototype device so you can see what kind of power supply and fuse you can get away with in practical usage.
Depends where you order and where you live.....I got mine in 6 days.
@@muppetpaster How do you like it? I've been enjoying the graph and memory recall functions.
15:44...close, but no cigar...I know, you're trying to keep it clean, but it only works proper if you use the right words for Focusing...AvE isn't wrong...LOL
WreckDiver99
FOCUS YOU FACK
@@hxhdfjifzirstc894 I'm german. But I catch myself often also use "Fooocus you Faack" when my camera doesn't want to.
But focus you bastard is the UK style of saying it. :D
There is always some fokker that will remind us.
@@gorillaau Keep your Richard in the Clamping device!
@@WreckDiver99 Do not insert your thomas in the current clamp while in operation.
What i really like most is this nice and humble oscilloscope.
haha, buy one
Interesting PSU. The DC input is great for me as I run my inverters off a 48V DC battery system here so I can just add another breaker to the LVD :) I'll hang on a little first to see if anything can be done with the output noise before I get one.
FYI: Dave posted that the output noise was incorrect, it's about equivalent to other units.
I've reviewed mine and I really like it. The graph mode is cool.
That is one beautiful case for one hell of a price
The case on it's own is great value.
Nice video, This help tip me over into buying a 6012 and 6018, which have the same noise levels as the 6006 (at the same current level) the noise only rises after that with 160mv p-p at 14vdc 10a, and increases rather linearly.
You can disassemble it, as the banana posts while soldered have cutouts in the front panel, so they can just pull out of the front panel with out desoldering.
thank you for your support , you also can check RD6006P and RD6012P , it is better for ripple
My uncle Bob thought it was bloody brilliant, so i wrote my mom about it. Gotta tell you, nothing to sneeze at, remarkable value. 😁
Mine just came in, very nice ......thanks! Struggled to source 60V backend PSU, so bit the bullet and ordered a 60V form their recommended supplier.
"Idiot marketing protection mode"
I'm sensing a story behind that, Dave. How expensive was the damage, & was he punished for his crime?
They NEVER get punished for their crimes.
@@EEVblog? Committing crimes is kinda the job description. They always have the 3 martini lunch for plausible deniability defense.
My dad tells how he stopped this kind of thing. Leave a handful of capacitors that have been on the megger lying around the bench.
@@salerio61 That's hilarious :) .
@@EEVblog SO TRUE. IDIOTS, as soon as the project drops, they have "nothing to do with it" .... could be worse than Dilbert jokes.
I have a mean well beast brick. 48V 10A It's fan runs constantly from power on. However... if you put it under duress the fan has a LOT more to go. At idle it's at minimum. I remember getting it really going using an RDTech module to charge a high charge rate Lipo at 12.6V 20A. It didn't take long for the fan noise to get much, much worse from both the PSU and the DC Brick.
On the other end, I use an RDTech to manage a 12V solar feed for bench use. It's 5Amp and I never use half that, so I just cut it's fan lead with a pair of cutters and decided to install a thermal cut in later... it's still termporarilly fixed.
Dave: I use the power supply to Power the power supply
whats' your feeling?
@@rdtech9153 what....???
Exactly. While none if them are really power supplies, I expect something labeled as one to use mains power.
Haha it says it all about modern technology
Chinese manufacturing tends to use a lot of modular components.
Well had it over 12 months now and still pleased with it. I have used it hard charging some big batteries. So have pushed to limits and still going. I did get the full Monty with all the suggested units direct Tom manufacturers. Good review nearly need to watch the follow up 😂
Is it radiating switching noise too? Maybe you could do a video on how to reduce that high freq ringing by adding an RC snubber circuit.
I'll bet that plastic front panel is not shielded. And if it is shielded, it appears there is no EMI gasket to bond it to the case.
@@steverobbins4872 In China, the only shielding that name worthy is the shielding of their people against 'bad' political ideas.
Maybe someone else mentioned this, but the Mean Well RS-320-48v power supply referenced in the video has been replaced with a newer model: LRS-350-48 and the price is lower! Not sure if it's better or worse, but the newer model is readily available for quite a bit less.
I've always wondered why these things done exist that just plug up to an atx power supply. They are ubiquitous, and provide multiple voltages.
An ATX power supply is limited to 12V output, and with a 2.5V overhead, the RD6006 would only output a maximum of 9.5V. It can still be done, but it's more practical to just take a fuse, a salvaged transformer, a bridge rectifier, and a few electrolytic capacitors to just rig up your own supply if you don't want to buy theirs.
There are plenty of cheap interfaces on eBay that connect to a 20-24 pin ATX connector with bannana-screw terminals and a power switch. The concept is as simple as can be, since to turn an ATX supply on, all you need to do is connect a switch between pin 14 and any of the ground pins. I've been doing that for years with old AT supplies.
Yeah, their extra fan in the case that always runs is a Ruideng specialty. Same for the older, smaller cases. I just made a fan duct for the load-controlled fan on the device to make that one suck the air into the case.
Looks great! Might have to get one of these!
I just bought one - i've only got an ancient one from Rapid - uses dial meters to show the voltages :D
@@ukmk3supra hope you like it
The communications for these is MODBUS, address 01. I will write my own software interface when i have time. GREAT review! thank you, Sir!
Oh they have published the protocol? But MODBUS… Coils and registers, gak! There is PyModbus for python open source.
Wouldn't it be advantageous to mount the MeanWell supply on standoffs, so the air can flow under it? The whole bottom of it is a heatsink.
Without proper forced airflow between the PSU and case walls, that might be worse; if the thermal connection between MeanWell and outer case is good enough and there can be better airflow at the outside of the case, the outer case might work better as the heatsink (extension). In fact, IIRC, a bit similar MeanWell model that I have actually instructs about how one side can be screwed directly to the outer case (or to a proper heatsink) for heatsink purposes.
@@markkuhassinen5745 I think the rear fan in the case would be enough forced airflow to the MeanWell. I don't like the idea of using powder painted thin steel plate as a heatsink.
@@mrnmrn1 That certainly can work, especially if one adds some airflow guidance so more air flows through the narrower gap, as typically standoffs that are rigid enough are only around 5mm, maybe up to 8mm. If the other side has all the rest of free space, most of the airflow will go that easier path. But having only standoffs and a backside fan might leave it better to attach directly the case. Difficult to estimate, though. Also the PSU's own fan my affect the airflow, for better or worse.
That particular model doesn't state about the attachment to the sides like the documentation on the model I have, but its insides looks similarly arranged. The hottest parts are attached to the sides (although annoyingly so that the hottest spots' metal is set deeper, so can not get good contact on those as easily, unless the heatsink is small enough), so it might be more beneficial to squeeze some proper heatsinks against the sides and direct air flow through those. There is enough space for such arrangement in that case.
Obviously, many choices, but the PSU seems to be rated to work even "as is" without additional arrangements, as long as its own fan gets proper flow and is not heated by other sources.
Well, my RD6006 finally arrived a few days ago, with the chassis and 60V DC supply arriving sometime mid December, though I ordered all three at the same time.
So far, I'm really liking this thing.
I got the 60V supply, so with the forward voltage from the regulator itself, it's maximum output is 58.48V DC at 6.1A. The DR6006 unit will take up to 70v in.
The graph display is actually pretty useful, because if you use the jog wheel, you can change the vertical scale (notice the division readout at the bottom) and see the amperage and wattage, so you can plot your device's current draw over certain times of it's usage and determine what kind of power supply and fuse your prototype device will need (you could calculate that before hand, but you could end up with something way overblown for what you actually need). I was just using it as a makeshift supply to test a force feedback joystick, and was able to graph the current change when I moved the stick.
Presumably this kind of logging is what the software should be used for, but with the antivirus complaining like that, I'd use an isolated system if you need to interface with it. At least until somebody can reverse-engineer the code and determine that there's nothing untowards going on. It should be noted that there is other software from more reputable sources that recommends that you disable the antivirus while you install it, so this isn't exactly anything new. It may be nothing of concern, but exercise caution until you know for sure.
I also discovered that the voltage monitor works even when the supply is off. Probably for the battery charge function. I wouldn't use it for a multi-meter, but that's a curiosity.
The chassis and power supply fans only go on initially at startup, and thereafter only when they're needed, so it's completely silent when on standby. That would probably change if I find something to do with it that requires higher current, but with what I'm doing, it runs pretty quiet.
So far, it seems like a good buy if you get the components on sale. About $170 CDN for the whole lot on sale (on Banggood.com), including shipping, which is far cheaper than a comparable name brand supply, even off of eBay. We'll have to see how well it holds up over time, but based on what I've experienced so far, and Dave's own review, I'd definitely recommend this for electronics hobbyists looking to get their lab going at an affordable price.
Can we call a product “power supply” which doesn’t power from the ac mains?
What is the difference between power supply vs. dc to dc converter?
It is just a buck converter with a display, so it won't boost.
power supply contains DC-DC power supply
Also, thanks Dave on the reminder about the OVP. My RDtech for the bench supplies my headphone amp. It's input bulk cap is a 16V 400uF. That little PSU will happily with a spin of a knob put out 50V. BANG goes that cap inside my headphone amp case.... and anything else similarly limited on that rail which may NOT be in a case. I should set it to 16V as a secondary protection against "Whooopsies". If I need more it will remind me to clear off the other devices from the rail first.
So you need a power supply for the power supply?? This is neat and affordable, but its only half a power supply
Yeah, but it's the more complicated part of the power supply. All you need is a power brick, which is pretty cheap and simple.
Yes, but it does all the fancy hard stuff. You can convert literally any DC power source into a lab PSU
All you need is a transformer, bridge rectifier and some caps.
You can easily recycle all those parts from a single audio amplifier.
@@EEVblog Agree, but its still only HALF a power supply
@@ElecDashTronDotOrg Not everyone needs to power this from AC mains. Some people may want to power it from batteries, or some existing 48V power source. Is your use-case the ONLY use-case for everyone?
14:35 I'm using the DPS5020 here. Shows the same behaviour, seems the fan is triggered by internal temperature AND load/current.
keep reviewing things like this Chinese stuff is quite interesting
The white thingy on the heatsink is a thermal switch (klixon) that cuts mains power if the heatsink gets too hot. The regulation for the fan is done elsewhere.
so I need a power supply to power my power supply?
Yes, and when you're done you will have a nice power supply to power other power supplies.
@Carlos Teixeira Have you heard of the law of conservation of energy?
Even Homer Simpson obeys the laws of thermodynamics!
If I supply my power supply with the output of its power supply, will I have infinite power?
@@natecontarino1748 lol
That meanwell PSU is using temperature switch for the fan and those sometimes take a while to switch off.
It also might be doing some current detection.
Piss-poor current detection and temperature measurement then.
15:43 Having an AvE moment I see :D
the aussie version
Exactly my thought.
Really nice observation ;)
@@michalveselenyi3801 sometimes shouting at the camera - on camera - works, even makes it comical to some.
Focus you FAK!
The previous little one psus came with a diode and the instruction to use it to charge batteries otherwise the battery could discharge and damage the circuit when power is off. I think that the green battery post has that diode in series.
Ah, likely.
no ,we just add a reply to protect from reversely connection
well that ain't no proper power supply. Its just a fancy regulator unless you can plug it into the wall ;)
I think the idea is that you can just use it with whatever large wall-wart you have lying around. Or gang multiple RD6006 units together with a large DC supply in a single chassis to make a multi-output regulated power supply.
bought one of these from AliExpress... it works ok, but the fit and finish aren't great. One screw came pre-stripped, the on/off switch to the power supply is intermittent (so I just leave it on and use the plug) the power supply module to frame connection isnt tight, so every time I connect and disconnect leads the front plate wiggles. But it puts out power in a controlled manner to do all sorts of projects, so, good for the money I suppose.
thank you
Ordered it more than 20 days ago :( still in transit ...
I got mine DHL'd, I was impatient.
35 days for me....
It takes 60+ days for stuff to get here over the normal mail
I got the chassis and power supply within a couple weeks (ordered shortly after this video was posted). The RD6006 just arrived a few days ago. Probably a supply issue. The power supply and chassis can be used for other projects, so they probably have more of them in stock.
@@gglovato where is "here"?
I saw someone testing the current limiting and I guess the output caps are not directly across the output because he was about to hook up like a 5mm led with it on already with no problems
The lab bench psu didn't kill himself
I'm also using the new 24A version, still in the same form factor incredibly. Throw it in some case with a 60V low amps supply and through the magic of buck, you still get 24A out of at low voltages - unbeatable for the like 50$ that I paid ...
Was that fuseholder damaged in the meanwell PSU ?. It looked like one of the legs was splayed open.
Cheap power supplies is buying used laptop chargers! Might only be at 19v but I guess you can put two in series if you need the voltage.
i have a 100v 50v center tap calling for this thing out of a 200W Kenwood receiver
Ad a 6A fuse, a bridge rectifier, and a few electrolytic caps, and you've got yourself a power supply for it.
Got the parts and assembled it tonight.
Got the recommended AC power supply from the Aliexpress posting. And despite having a sticker next to the fan saying the PSU have built-in fan on-off control the bloody fan runs all the time. With the case on, the noice was even worse.
Since I'm not ever going to be pushing 300 watts through this PSU in my litte lab, I just disconnected the fan, and now its nice and quiet.Taped the internal temperature probe to the case of the AC Power brick, so I can monitor it's temperature on the Display. Also attached the sensor of the little board controlling the case fan to the PSU, so it'll turn on if the metal gets hot.
If it dies because if this it's just 30 bucks after all, and peace of mind / lack of fan noice is worth it.
2 fuses, must send this to weller
Ah, but do they actually blow, or are they like Apple iFuses, as found in burnt out MacBooks?
Looks like RD6006 is a hot topic on UA-cam right now. Multiple UA-camrs made videos about it and got into my feed even though I'm not watching them and haven't watched this video at that point.
How long ago did you buy this? It's over $200.00 now.
Really? I checked now and this model is still available at the same price range.
Hello! Excellent Vid! Came to comment that the 2x4 female terminal on the back end looks exactly like one designed to fit an NRF24L01 Wifi module! Looks like the pins match up as well as the fact it runs on 3.3v as seen in the vid. I hope this helps!
No Wucka’s!! Bobby Dazzler!! Your gonna need another video on Aussie Colloquialism for our International friends 😂
I can certainly see some uses for this but frankly a bench power supply is one of my most valued tools and I really can't see going cheap on it. The last thing you need when troubleshooting are problems induced by noisy power. I notice you have a pretty good one also. 4 tools I suggest guys pay a little more and get a quality product are soldering irons, power supplies, scope and a good meter. Open up say a Tektronix bench power supply and do a side by side.
4:05 "whhhyyyyyy?" made me laugh
When you unscrewed the negative binding post I noticed the hole was horizontal, pointing at the next binding post. The holes should always be orthogonal to the alignment of the binding posts to prevent shorting and also make them easier to use.
you said the case ?
3:03 omg he just ripped it off :( slower = better
lol I thought the same! Need to do it slowly to get that satisfaction.
I've ordered the components also , it it on it's way, 2 are in the destination country and 1 (the PSU) is in a airplane , so i think i can build it soon, ordered the recommended power supply so al should be well.
So it's not ACTUALLY a power supply - it's a REGULATOR.
it is DC-DC power supply
ACTUALLY the power supply is a big spinning lump of metal in a power station
@@tomkennaugh ACTUALLY - the power supply is God.
@@gregsullivan7408 ACTUALLY nuclear fusion, but I'm open to new ideas :P
Uranium is an interesting case since it is thought to be formed in a supernova. Definitely fusion but not the typical direct release of energy from fusion as in the sun.
this is great, i can cross this one off the birthday list. noise is a Ham's worst enemy. thanks for the review, as always awesome job mate.
I think he addressed the noise issue in the next video.
I think there are lots better choices than this. Too many useless features and not enough basic function. By the time you have this configured to provide 360W output you'd be into it for $200, and you'd still have all that noise. There is a thing on eBay called the Dr.Meter triple Variable linear DC power supply that provides 0-30V@5A + 0-30V@5A + 5V@3A. You can series the adjustable outputs for 0-60V@5A or parallel them for 0-30V@10A. That's a total of 315W. A buddy of mine bought one ($200) and it gets the job done. Construction was not perfect, but we spent about an hour rectifying things to our satisfaction. Less time than it would take to fully configure one of these switchmode things in a nice case and input power for 360W out. Far more real life versatility too. They can keep their RD6006 as far as I'm concerned.
Sure, each to their own.
Don't know if they fixed it but we had problems with Win's auto install version of the CH340 driver a couple years back. The official one works perfect.
It’s fine but it’s half a power supply. I’m not sure it’s that good value.
It's also around half the price of something with similar specs/features, sure you can find some super cheap bench PSUs from china at ~$50 but they're equally pretty low quality and for at least a few people those have even caught on fire, also personally I have a couple spare computer PSUs so pair that with a $5 boost converter and it could power it at v30-v40 easily.
Well, my RD6006 finally arrived a few days ago, with the chassis and 60V DC supply arriving sometime mid December, though I ordered all three at the same time.
So far, I'm really liking this thing.
I got the 60V supply, so with the forward voltage from the regulator itself, it's maximum output is 58.48V DC at 6.1A. The DR6006 unit will take up to 70v in.
The graph display is actually pretty useful, because if you use the jog wheel, you can change the vertical scale (notice the division readout at the bottom) and see the amperage and wattage, so you can plot your device's current draw over certain times of it's usage. I was just using it as a makeshift supply to test a force feedback joystick, and was able to graph the current change when I moved the stick.
Presumably this kind of logging is what the software should be used for, but with the antivirus complaining like that, I'd use an isolated system if you need to interface with it. At least until somebody can reverse-engineer the code and determine that there's nothing untowards going on. It should be noted that there is other software from more reputable sources that recommends that you disable the antivirus while you install it, so this isn't exactly anything new. It may be nothing of concern, but exercise caution until you know for sure.
I also discovered that the voltage monitor works even when the supply is off. Probably for the battery charge function. I wouldn't use it for a multi-meter, but that's a curiosity.
The chassis and power supply fans only go on initially at startup, and thereafter only when they're needed, so it's completely silent when on standby. That would probably change if I find something to do with it that requires higher current, but with what I'm doing, it runs pretty quiet.
So far, it seems like a good buy if you get the components on sale. About $160 CDN for the whole lot on sale, including shipping, which is far cheaper than a comparable name brand supply, even off of eBay. We'll have to see how well it holds up over time, but based on what I've experienced so far, and Dave's own review, I'd definitely recommend this for electronics hobbyists looking to get their lab going at an affordable price.
Battery charging in bench lab power supply? Chinese style ;D
Im surprised they didn't build in a flashlight with dedicated SOS mode.
Charging most chemistries is just CC/CV (with a cutoff after minimal charging current is reached if you want to be fancy), so 99% of bench PSUs are perfectly fine for that. Given how many people blew up their earlier models by connecting the battery the wrong way around or without proper voltage set, I'm willing to bet the battery terminal just has a built in diode (possibly with it's voltage drop compensated)
@@MikrySoft Or perhaps it has a dedicated NiMH charging circuit which is way different than CC/CV you mentioned.
*snort*
@@ataria5609 May as well throw in a tranny tester too.
31:08 I have DPS 5005, it has well documented modbus protocol, really easy to work with (from programmers perspective). This one is probably more of the same.
37:02 Check your files, mine's called "DPS5005 CNC Communication Protocol V1.2.docx" (supports only modbus read/write register and write multiple registers, but they exported practically everything, there are some 20+ registers so you can set or read everything (e.g. set OV/OC, power ON/OFF, backlight brightness, memory presets, etc etc))
thank you for your suppor , for this RD6006, we did not provide communication protocol
Those display colors are AWFUL! Reminds me of one of the original PC 'color' graphics modes!
Camera artifact...
@@CaptainDangeax
I suspect he was referring to the purple and cyan. Default mode for CGA was purple, cyan, white (or light grey) and black.
Simplifying the colour scheme saves memory. and simplifies design. What colours would you have? I'm also into retro computing, so I don't mind the CGA colour pallet.
One of your links goes to Lighting Global Store that charges $20 shipping for US destination.
The battery charger is a joke, WIFI not working, USB interface is broken...You can buy decent stand-alone bench power supplies for ~ $150 USD. IMHO this thing is NOT worth it.
how did you know wifi not work? usb interface was damaged ? Dave did not connect the APP with right way and did not connect PC software ...
Maybe the dip in the efficiency curve (21:39) is caused by the fan ramping up?
The battery is a "Lithium ion regulation" nonsense situation.
A few years ago I ordered some lithium pouch cells, and one had free usb charger modules taped strategic so a when they xray it would look like it was installed. I got a makerphone and the lipo was connected to the pcb just so they could ship it.
The battery regulations are a load of bureaucratic bull shit. As long as they're packaged securely in a rigid box, there is no problem. And a tiny coin cell is never going to explode anyway.
Simon Tay If uninstalled lithium batteries are shipped bare in the air, it needs to be in a fire proof container. Not feasible to check how everything is packaged. Doesn't cost much more if you find a carrier who does it.
However, I have no clue why it wouldn't be able to be shipped with it. Installed batteries really have no issues with being shipped.
CR-2032 Batteries, made by Panasonic are dirt cheap on Amazon. Buy a shitload of them for abut $8 and have them for the rest of your life. :-)
www.amazon.com/Panasonic-Lithium-Battery-20-Batteries/dp/B015JR47T8/ref=sxin_2_osp59-efea6d05_cov?ascsubtag=efea6d05-8c9c-4ab2-8216-75945b7e05e2&creativeASIN=B015JR47T8&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.efea6d05-8c9c-4ab2-8216-75945b7e05e2&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=cr-2032&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B015JR47T8&pd_rd_r=397176c3-fac4-4c35-9d86-c3106a49f4ca&pd_rd_w=2gWfd&pd_rd_wg=hLR5O&pf_rd_p=a23a388c-add5-49df-b293-a31ade89c6bf&pf_rd_r=TQSMRJ1JSKG9JEN95G5E&qid=1574923067&tag=tbonsite-20
@@simontay4851 Aviation authorities suspects lithium batteries have downed aircraft
I downloaded the software, and apart from using inbound TCP port 8080 http-proxy to check for software version, it isn't a virus at all
32:09
ask your colleague Dave who's a crack at software to setup a virtual machine for you so you can safely install this unsafe software.
you said the PC software ? there is not virus , someone have explained that , we add some code to avoid decode, so some system detect it as virus, but in fact, it is not ,but don't worry, it will be a new version, all system will accept it , not take it as virus .. please wait some day, it should be finished in this week
@Rd Tech - You mean prevent reverse engineering the .exe? Why bother, and why is the control protocol a secret and not something simple like SCPI? It won't take long for someone to just sniff the serial data protocol and then write a driver for sigrok or python. Much more useful than some lockdown windows only app with virus rubbish.
I don't know of any (pro) test instruments that come with a control interface, GPIB, USB-TMC, serial, LXI that do not have a published control protocol.
@@Drew-Dastardly thank you for your suggest, it is just a protection, we will provide the communication protocol later, but if we do not set any protection, you know in China, you can get cheap copy in a few days, sorry for that, though it is still useless if you have skills to do that
Finally found this exact power supply and as of mid-September 2021, the price has skyrocketed, and it IS a very good supply.
thank you for your support
I would buy one for 53$ but not for close to 70$ nowadays :| Pure hobby stuff, add case, PSU and you got doubled that price sadly.
* RIDEN WINS *
it would be nice to get a module like that but one that's capable of negative and positive rail output at the same time - for pesky audio and op-amps
thank you for your suggestion
so...really a power supply "controller".......