Thank you for posting such a nice video. Your unit looks professional and quite versatile. There is one issue you should consider. When converting a computer power supply such as this, consider that the ground on most PC power supplies are internally connected to the AC power ground. If by chance you have another piece of AC powered test equipment such as an oscilloscope (they have the same issue with the ground), connecting test leads to the wrong place could cause something to go 'poof' or worse. You may want to consider, if you have the room inside the case, to install an isolation transformer. Or at least use one externally.
Thanks! About isolation, just as you said, I had a problem the other day. I connected a VESC controller to a 42V power supply that wasn't isolated because I didn't have a battery on hand aaaand when I connected the VESC to my PC over USB, the USB hub died together with a couple receivers for my barcode scanner and keyboards
I took a look at some isolation transformers for 240VAC but they are all over 100 Euros which is too expensive for such a project. I'll do some more research hoping I find something better
Neat build up, just an FYI, you need to remember that an ATX PSU is a switching PSU, the output is by no means clean there is a lot of noise on the output. If you want to design or repair I would suggest you rather build a linear lab bench supply, there is a reason these supplies are STILL used, especially in a repair and design environment. For a simple and dirty supply yes you can do this, but, I would not suggest this for repair and design.
Yeah, and since I removed its case which is a shield it probably isn't a good idea to use it in a professional way. With that being said, this project was aimed at beginners, who are just starting out. Playing with LEDs, small motors, and similar stuff. It should do a good job for such things and I'm still using it to power simple stuff. When I quickly need to test a proximity sensor, for example, it's neat to have both 3V3 and 5V rails always there, always on
@@Djambo57 Yes, for sure. I am sure it would be a good stating point for the beginner, I just wish that content creators would state this though, SMPS's are great at delivering a decent amount of current in a small package, it is just not always the cleanest. FYI, another tip, is to put a choke and another cap just ahead of the output terminals something like a 220uf cap and an appropriately rated choke for the current further cleans it up.....
I like the video because you managed to make it really small in size and I know it could be upgraded, but I also understand that this is like a supplementary power supply and then there is no point in wasting money because it would cost too much. In this way, it is functional and serves exactly what it was designed for. I use them too and they come in handy for various projects.
Well done! You put a lot of thought into this thing. Many times, I cringe when I see people neglecting to use fuses and to build in other sorts of protections and precautions into their janky DIY PSUs. They just use stuff like ATX PSU cases for enclosures or they have cooling slots all over the place(in 3D printed cases), even though a Bench PSU is in a work area, and pieces of cr*p that you snip off or throw away, like pieces of copper wire and plastic etc.. can go into the enclosure and fans, and bliksem it all up. I've never bothered with DIY bench power supplies- they just aren't worth it, and just bought my own- spending good money on it- as I do all my tools, equipment and appliances. My dad always said that it doesn't matter how *poor you are, just buy quality tools and equipment, BUT... I would like to build this one- with variation of course. I'd add a temperatue sensor for the fans- it's a low-power bench unit, no need for the fans to always be on and use additional power(every little helps). I'd also add a solar option and Li-ON batteries. Should be good enough for an everyday option to preserve the life of my TDK-LAMBDA. * (And my dad really was an underpaid tradesmen, but he had Hilti, Bosch, Gedore, Makita, Sony, JVC, Telefunken, Phillips, Calibra, Tektronix, Engineer Tools(Japan), Shimano, Weller, etc - all over the place. None of those ever let him down.)
well designed in the casing and connectors and such. as in looking nice and easy to use, so good product design. however electrically I still see some improvements, some of which can bring down the price, some others are just important lab powersuply features you forgot, or things which might still misfunction 1. add variable voltage and current limiting on atleast one port. this is super handy on a lab powersuply and actually also one of it's most important features often. 2. add a port for the -12V wire, can handle low current but is super usefull since some devices(like high sensitivity operational amplifiers ) need a psu with a center tap or a positive and negative voltage. 3. for the indicator leds of which output is on and which not, as the screens go on it might not be needed, but more importantly the connection in your diagram does often work but isn't really a propper way to do it. you used mosfets to switch them on and off, and the mosfets hobbyists get and work with are made for high current or high voltage, the thing is the 5v and 12v one will probably work well, but the 3v one might not fully open, many mosfets need a rather high voltage to fully turn on, probably won't notice it but not perfect. the main problem next to that however is that they are super expensive compared to cheap general purpose transistors which can cost less than a cent a piece and still can easily handle the power of that led many times. with transistors their opening is decided by current, not by voltage, so you can use a resistor to set them at a fixed current and with some calculation you might even be able to skip the resistor for the led. however since you are using red leds(often around 2.6V to 2.8V) you can actually skip that entire led cirquit and connect them the way you originally wanted to avoid, just give them all a different resistor value, the led itself will also act like a variable resistor(variable based on current and voltage) you can find that in the datasheet and just find a certain value for the intensity then take the voltage drop and easily calculate the needed resistor(or lack there of)
That's a great build. I would not use an atx psu for various reasons (the load resister being one of them) but i fully understand your choice. That said, i am particularly impressed by your design
Hi, i m vers happy to see your video you are a nice builder, but do you think to be able to build an oscilloscope with a décent refresh rate? And thanks again
one limit of this is that you can't tie your grounds of different voltages together, so if you have a circuit that needs 3.3v and 5v, it won't fly. You can't tie the grounds together because the volt-amp displays have to be between the load and ground, not the supply and ground. If you do tie them, your current readings will be wrong. I ran into this myself. My solution was to get some hall-effect current sensors and use an arduino to fake an analog output to the current measuring part of the circuit. Never got it quite calibrated though, other projects came up.
Cool build! I kinda want to build one after I watch this video. If I am building this, I will probably use a relay to switch the power and a single ULN2003 for handling the LEDs.
Nice project, the only thing I don't agree with is the positioning of the fans. In my opinion, all 3 fans should be positioned on the side where there are now 2 of them (throwing out air) while on the side where you placed one, create a grill large enough to let in the same amount of air that goes out. With this configuration, the hot air present inside is expelled by the fans and replaced by the fresh air that arrives from the grill.
one usefull think i havent seen here is over current protection. i know you have fuses, but 10Amps can kill a lot of hardware anyway, so a ;)n active one sometime saves a day. (well it did for me, meny times;) )
One thing that worries me is 3v3 switching. It can be that 3.3v for Vgs is not enough to fully turn it on so with hi current it can cause some heating problems. Recommend to check used mosfet Vds to Id diagram with 3.3v Vgs and use it to adjust fuse size.
Hey, thanks for the comment! I may make a small series on 3D modeling if there's enough interest... Recently I switched to Fusion and I can say that it's a way faster workflow haha
Your lab bench atx psu might be the best one Ive seen. I'm thinking of doing the same but I read online that ATX psus arent current limited. If I wanted 12V at 0.5 amps will it be possible or will I end up frying pcbs?
Thanks! They are not current limited but you can find some DC-DC converters on Aliexpress which can help you regulate both voltage and current. I'll be doing another power supply video soon and I'll be adding such a module so make sure to stick around :)
What a fantastic video ,i kind of enjoy the pro presentation ,if it's okay with you ,will you kindly send me the schematic diagram please , need to do a project using that Lab bench power supply
Hey, the workshop is still not finished... I still need to get some tools like a microscope and an oscilloscope. I don't want to make a video about it until it's 100% how I want it to be, but when it gets there, definitely! For the parts, I left around 0.2mm tolerance if I remember right so it could be printed with PLA, but I'm not 100% sure :)
I was having an idea that smd rework station has an adjusting knob for fan and temp control It delivers voltage upto 24 v And the pcb in it can handle a descent wattage consumed by heating element of heat gun and soldering iron Why can't we use it to make variable bench power supply If you can make one It is a new design no one has ever done I hope you will find it interesting The idea is instead of heat gun handle we can use female banana clips The temp meter can be replaced by volt amp meter We will get two connections 1 soldering station For low power equipment 2 heat gun connection For more power
You’d prolly want a buck boost converter. There’s a -12V line but it’s only got half and amp and thus is a bad idea to tap into. Unless you want to power an op amp or something simple like that I’d recommend against it.
That's right!! I'm preparing a very special video at the moment where I'll show you the project I've been working on for more than 7 years at this point... I think it's going to be pretty interesting :)
Excellent! Although I would have added another adjustable option in volts and amps, or would remove the 3.3V to place the adjustable! You may make the modification for a next video. Another thing that would be great is that you would include subtitles for other languages, for example Spanish. Greetings
Hey, thanks for the comment! I was thinking about adding something like the XYS3580 module so I can adjust the voltage and current but I decided to leave this one as a basic atx supply with some added features. I already have an adjustable PSU at my desk but I'll for sure make my own in the future! 3V3 is actually pretty useful in my case because most of the ICs work on 3v3 so I wouldn't leave it out... And for the subtitles, I'll take a look at it :)
Nice project, couple of suggestions. You do not really need to monitor the voltages for the different lines as they do not vary (much), that would simplify the project. A current meter is useful and this could be put on the 0V line as this line is common for all the different voltages (3.3, 5, 12, ...).
Thanks for the comment. I already built a couple of these before, without a custom enclosure or anything else but I wanted this one to be a bit more complicated. A beginner could learn a lot by building something like this. That's exactly how I got started with electronics, by building an unnecessarily complicated electric longboard.
⚠ Hi Djambo. Is it not possible to make a "standard" ATX Lab power supply chassis that will fit more or less any ATX PSU (could be restricted to modern PSUs from a certain date only or other parameters) so that you simply can grab it (the Lab chassis) off the shelf and throw in a PSU and it will work❓
Your work looks amazing, and the case is very well-designed, but there is one problem. ATX power supplies work at high frequencies - without electromagnetic shielding (which is its own case), they cause significant amounts of interference in sensitive devices, like audio amplifiers - amplifier may hum or even (?) boost (idk how to say it, English is not my first language). The easiest solution for this problem is to install the original power supply with the original metal shield inside your case. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate your work, but you shouldn't use it, when professional hardware is needed. BTW, if someone uses an old ATX, it's good to check the electrolytic capacitors. It may help with issues like turning off at random moments when it has to provide more power than usual.
Well these displays have 3 thinner wires. Red and Black are for powering up the display and you can connect the red wire to let's say 12V. Then use the yellow wire on the 3.3V rail to measure it. This measurement will then be displayed on the display...
I see the schematic for the mosfets in the video. In your video it looks like you are connecting two of the legs of the P channel mosfets together. Is that just an illusion, or are you really doing that? It would be nice to see a bit more detail on the connection of these :) Maybe a link to the schematic at least. Thanks for the video.
Just follow the schematic it is correct. I remember connecting something wrong while recording because the camera was in a way and it wasn't comfortable to solder like I usually do 😁
Hi! The parts were available to buy but I don't really thinker with printers anymore since there's always something new to fix haha.. If you really don't have a way of printing it, you can try to find some 3D printing stores on Etsy and ask a couple for a quote
Hey, Thanks! The yellow socket is connected to the earth pin in the outlet. It may be used with an antistatic band and a current limiting resistor in series so you can hook yourself up to it while working with PCB so you don't damage something with electrostatic discharge
very cool Project. but because my english is not so good... would it be possible for you to create a sketch where you can see again what needs to be connected where and how?
You used many screens, connectors and mosfets by connecting them to each voltage separately ... When u can just use a one volt/Amp screen plus one "Rotary Switch" ... Just connect the yellow wire from the screen to select the voltage ur working on 12, 5 and 3.3V ... LEDS i dont see why u need mosfets to control them, just one for stand by plus one for power on ... I built my power supply like that from 5 years back (plus i added a temperature control for the fan to work from 37c to 42c) .. BUT the important thing is that you had fun :)
I needed to have all outputs available at any time because sometimes I have stuff that needs multiple voltage rails to operate... For the LEDs, I wanted them to shine with the same brightness, I didn't have any smaller MOSFETs or transistors so I had to use these large ones
Nice PSU u got there. I really like how it front panel looks, and your choice of elements to turn ATX into bench. I just don't get one thing. Why did you spend so much time creating this and leave it only 3, 5 and 12v, without adjustable voltage/current? there's enough room in the box for a module, and maybe if usb is on the side/top the screen and button of the module can be fitted on front panel. and it can get powered on from 12v rail i rly don't see the point of making this, other than just out of passion and too much spare time. it looks really nice, but you can get pretty much the same effect if you just drill atx and add 4 terminals (3V,5V,12V, Ground)+fuses and find a way to live with urself without on/off and LEDs for each terminal. If I am to build such a PSU myself again, prolly I'll use a significant part of your design, its inspirational :)
I wanted this supply to be a basic fixed one, I'll make an adjustable one in the future for sure! The space inside the case was eaten up by the wires so I couldn't fit anything else even it I wanted to :/ It is the same thing if you made it by securing the bindings posts to the ATX supply's case but I wanted it to look like a finished product, that's my obsession with these projects :)
MANY problems - such PSUs are very noisy - the waveform is terrible - when they fail they can destroy the load - no current limiting - no short-circuit protection - not recommended for capacitive or inductive loads - very high current at 5V so a short in the load will fry everything - NOT for the novice as there is a MAINS voltage subsection
I'd say they are fine for someone who's just figuring out how LEDs and resistors work. It's quite handy to test stuff like fans, etc. I maybe went too far with the enclosure, but I really like how it looks, and I use it almost every day
I'm still using my power bench atx PSU for about 12yrs, I started to build it in 2012 & works fine. 👌 Edit: there is recently a very cheap module an ATX power adapter that comes out in the market (Aideepen hu-m28w & XH-M299) you only need to plug the 24pin atx adapter on it.
Hi, i m vers happy to see your video you are a nice builder, but do you think to be able to build an oscilloscope with a décent refresh rate? And thanks again
Thank you for posting such a nice video. Your unit looks professional and quite versatile. There is one issue you should consider. When converting a computer power supply such as this, consider that the ground on most PC power supplies are internally connected to the AC power ground. If by chance you have another piece of AC powered test equipment such as an oscilloscope (they have the same issue with the ground), connecting test leads to the wrong place could cause something to go 'poof' or worse. You may want to consider, if you have the room inside the case, to install an isolation transformer. Or at least use one externally.
Thanks! About isolation, just as you said, I had a problem the other day. I connected a VESC controller to a 42V power supply that wasn't isolated because I didn't have a battery on hand aaaand when I connected the VESC to my PC over USB, the USB hub died together with a couple receivers for my barcode scanner and keyboards
I took a look at some isolation transformers for 240VAC but they are all over 100 Euros which is too expensive for such a project. I'll do some more research hoping I find something better
@@Djambo57 you can make your own with a couple transformers, they must be same.
Neat build up, just an FYI, you need to remember that an ATX PSU is a switching PSU, the output is by no means clean there is a lot of noise on the output. If you want to design or repair I would suggest you rather build a linear lab bench supply, there is a reason these supplies are STILL used, especially in a repair and design environment. For a simple and dirty supply yes you can do this, but, I would not suggest this for repair and design.
Yeah, and since I removed its case which is a shield it probably isn't a good idea to use it in a professional way. With that being said, this project was aimed at beginners, who are just starting out. Playing with LEDs, small motors, and similar stuff.
It should do a good job for such things and I'm still using it to power simple stuff. When I quickly need to test a proximity sensor, for example, it's neat to have both 3V3 and 5V rails always there, always on
@@Djambo57 Yes, for sure. I am sure it would be a good stating point for the beginner, I just wish that content creators would state this though, SMPS's are great at delivering a decent amount of current in a small package, it is just not always the cleanest. FYI, another tip, is to put a choke and another cap just ahead of the output terminals something like a 220uf cap and an appropriately rated choke for the current further cleans it up.....
I like the video because you managed to make it really small in size and I know it could be upgraded, but I also understand that this is like a supplementary power supply and then there is no point in wasting money because it would cost too much. In this way, it is functional and serves exactly what it was designed for. I use them too and they come in handy for various projects.
You should definitely be way more popular, you go into more detail than every DIY channel I've seen and you are funnier. You deserve much more!!
Thank you so much for the nice comment! :)
Well done!
You put a lot of thought into this thing. Many times, I cringe when I see people neglecting to use fuses and to build in other sorts of protections and precautions into their janky DIY PSUs. They just use stuff like ATX PSU cases for enclosures or they have cooling slots all over the place(in 3D printed cases), even though a Bench PSU is in a work area, and pieces of cr*p that you snip off or throw away, like pieces of copper wire and plastic etc.. can go into the enclosure and fans, and bliksem it all up.
I've never bothered with DIY bench power supplies- they just aren't worth it, and just bought my own- spending good money on it- as I do all my tools, equipment and appliances. My dad always said that it doesn't matter how *poor you are, just buy quality tools and equipment, BUT... I would like to build this one- with variation of course. I'd add a temperatue sensor for the fans- it's a low-power bench unit, no need for the fans to always be on and use additional power(every little helps). I'd also add a solar option and Li-ON batteries.
Should be good enough for an everyday option to preserve the life of my TDK-LAMBDA.
* (And my dad really was an underpaid tradesmen, but he had Hilti, Bosch, Gedore, Makita, Sony, JVC, Telefunken, Phillips, Calibra, Tektronix, Engineer Tools(Japan), Shimano, Weller, etc - all over the place. None of those ever let him down.)
well designed in the casing and connectors and such.
as in looking nice and easy to use, so good product design.
however electrically I still see some improvements, some of which can bring down the price, some others are just important lab powersuply features you forgot, or things which might still misfunction
1. add variable voltage and current limiting on atleast one port.
this is super handy on a lab powersuply and actually also one of it's most important features often.
2. add a port for the -12V wire, can handle low current but is super usefull since some devices(like high sensitivity operational amplifiers ) need a psu with a center tap or a positive and negative voltage.
3. for the indicator leds of which output is on and which not, as the screens go on it might not be needed, but more importantly the connection in your diagram does often work but isn't really a propper way to do it. you used mosfets to switch them on and off, and the mosfets hobbyists get and work with are made for high current or high voltage, the thing is the 5v and 12v one will probably work well, but the 3v one might not fully open, many mosfets need a rather high voltage to fully turn on, probably won't notice it but not perfect. the main problem next to that however is that they are super expensive compared to cheap general purpose transistors which can cost less than a cent a piece and still can easily handle the power of that led many times. with transistors their opening is decided by current, not by voltage, so you can use a resistor to set them at a fixed current and with some calculation you might even be able to skip the resistor for the led.
however since you are using red leds(often around 2.6V to 2.8V) you can actually skip that entire led cirquit and connect them the way you originally wanted to avoid, just give them all a different resistor value, the led itself will also act like a variable resistor(variable based on current and voltage) you can find that in the datasheet and just find a certain value for the intensity then take the voltage drop and easily calculate the needed resistor(or lack there of)
That's a great build. I would not use an atx psu for various reasons (the load resister being one of them) but i fully understand your choice. That said, i am particularly impressed by your design
Hi, i m vers happy to see your video you are a nice builder, but do you think to be able to build an oscilloscope with a décent refresh rate? And thanks again
one limit of this is that you can't tie your grounds of different voltages together, so if you have a circuit that needs 3.3v and 5v, it won't fly.
You can't tie the grounds together because the volt-amp displays have to be between the load and ground, not the supply and ground. If you do tie them, your current readings will be wrong.
I ran into this myself. My solution was to get some hall-effect current sensors and use an arduino to fake an analog output to the current measuring part of the circuit. Never got it quite calibrated though, other projects came up.
Cool build! I kinda want to build one after I watch this video. If I am building this, I will probably use a relay to switch the power and a single ULN2003 for handling the LEDs.
ULN2003 looks really interesting for this case, I haven't heard about it yet but I'll definitely look more into it. Thanks :D
Very professional build and presentation !! Power Supply looks fantastic !!
Very nice build, I'll have to try and make one. Thank you for the video.
Thanks!
Nice project, the only thing I don't agree with is the positioning of the fans. In my opinion, all 3 fans should be positioned on the side where there are now 2 of them (throwing out air) while on the side where you placed one, create a grill large enough to let in the same amount of air that goes out. With this configuration, the hot air present inside is expelled by the fans and replaced by the fresh air that arrives from the grill.
one usefull think i havent seen here is over current protection. i know you have fuses, but 10Amps can kill a lot of hardware anyway, so a ;)n active one sometime saves a day. (well it did for me, meny times;) )
One thing that worries me is 3v3 switching. It can be that 3.3v for Vgs is not enough to fully turn it on so with hi current it can cause some heating problems. Recommend to check used mosfet Vds to Id diagram with 3.3v Vgs and use it to adjust fuse size.
I like your work Djambo, and to be a full tutorial, why not considering doing a tutorial of how we do the Solidworks enclosure.
Hey, thanks for the comment! I may make a small series on 3D modeling if there's enough interest... Recently I switched to Fusion and I can say that it's a way faster workflow haha
Your lab bench atx psu might be the best one Ive seen. I'm thinking of doing the same but I read online that ATX psus arent current limited. If I wanted 12V at 0.5 amps will it be possible or will I end up frying pcbs?
Thanks! They are not current limited but you can find some DC-DC converters on Aliexpress which can help you regulate both voltage and current. I'll be doing another power supply video soon and I'll be adding such a module so make sure to stick around :)
What a fantastic video ,i kind of enjoy the pro presentation ,if it's okay with you ,will you kindly send me the schematic diagram please , need to do a project using that Lab bench power supply
Can you do a workshop and lab tour of yours, Please 🥺🥺. Also is it important to print the bezzel in TPU or it can be printed in PLA ?
Hey, the workshop is still not finished... I still need to get some tools like a microscope and an oscilloscope. I don't want to make a video about it until it's 100% how I want it to be, but when it gets there, definitely! For the parts, I left around 0.2mm tolerance if I remember right so it could be printed with PLA, but I'm not 100% sure :)
+1 for the workshop and lab tour
Very good video, bro❤
Thanks! :D
Great video with very good explanations on how you did everything! I am definitely a subscriber from now on.
Thank you so much! :)
Same here, this is the best I have found so far
I was having an idea that smd rework station has an adjusting knob for fan and temp control
It delivers voltage upto 24 v
And the pcb in it can handle a descent wattage consumed by heating element of heat gun and soldering iron
Why can't we use it to make variable bench power supply
If you can make one
It is a new design no one has ever done
I hope you will find it interesting
The idea is instead of heat gun handle we can use female banana clips
The temp meter can be replaced by volt amp meter
We will get two connections
1 soldering station
For low power equipment
2 heat gun connection
For more power
I love this. Could it be made wider to include +24V and maybe a variable module?
You’d prolly want a buck boost converter. There’s a -12V line but it’s only got half and amp and thus is a bad idea to tap into. Unless you want to power an op amp or something simple like that I’d recommend against it.
5k subs🎉
That's right!! I'm preparing a very special video at the moment where I'll show you the project I've been working on for more than 7 years at this point... I think it's going to be pretty interesting :)
@djambo57, by any chance do you have a printable set of instructions for this build?
I was wondering before i start this project, what are the dimensions of the enclosure?
And what is the Yellow binding post used for?
thank you
duuuddeee ur so underrated
Just started out, there's time to grow :D Thanks
Excellent! Although I would have added another adjustable option in volts and amps, or would remove the 3.3V to place the adjustable! You may make the modification for a next video.
Another thing that would be great is that you would include subtitles for other languages, for example Spanish. Greetings
Hey, thanks for the comment! I was thinking about adding something like the XYS3580 module so I can adjust the voltage and current but I decided to leave this one as a basic atx supply with some added features. I already have an adjustable PSU at my desk but I'll for sure make my own in the future! 3V3 is actually pretty useful in my case because most of the ICs work on 3v3 so I wouldn't leave it out... And for the subtitles, I'll take a look at it :)
Looks really cool 👌Sorry for such a shallow comment 😉
Thanks :)
Nice project, couple of suggestions. You do not really need to monitor the voltages for the different lines as they do not vary (much), that would simplify the project. A current meter is useful and this could be put on the 0V line as this line is common for all the different voltages (3.3, 5, 12, ...).
Thanks for the comment. I already built a couple of these before, without a custom enclosure or anything else but I wanted this one to be a bit more complicated. A beginner could learn a lot by building something like this. That's exactly how I got started with electronics, by building an unnecessarily complicated electric longboard.
@@BlondieHappyGuy Yeah I feel safer when I can see the voltage reading all the time
Wow this is amazing - really well made video and project! You deserve so much more views. Keep it up because you got talent my friend.
Thank you :D
Can this be used to test things that need more than 10amps?
⚠ Hi Djambo. Is it not possible to make a "standard" ATX Lab power supply chassis that will fit more or less any ATX PSU (could be restricted to modern PSUs from a certain date only or other parameters) so that you simply can grab it (the Lab chassis) off the shelf and throw in a PSU and it will work❓
Hi! That would be possible, I like the idea
@@Djambo57 I'm sure you are the man to pull it off. I don't have the necessary skills. Oops.. maybe this idea should be kept secret lol.
Your work looks amazing, and the case is very well-designed, but there is one problem. ATX power supplies work at high frequencies - without electromagnetic shielding (which is its own case), they cause significant amounts of interference in sensitive devices, like audio amplifiers - amplifier may hum or even (?) boost (idk how to say it, English is not my first language). The easiest solution for this problem is to install the original power supply with the original metal shield inside your case. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate your work, but you shouldn't use it, when professional hardware is needed.
BTW, if someone uses an old ATX, it's good to check the electrolytic capacitors. It may help with issues like turning off at random moments when it has to provide more power than usual.
You are 100% right but for an electornics beginner it shouldn't be a problem. Thanks! :D
Nice
Thanks :)
Hm, how do you get the 3.3V display to work? On the Ali that kind of displays says they only works from 4.5 to 30 VDC?
Well these displays have 3 thinner wires. Red and Black are for powering up the display and you can connect the red wire to let's say 12V. Then use the yellow wire on the 3.3V rail to measure it. This measurement will then be displayed on the display...
I see the schematic for the mosfets in the video. In your video it looks like you are connecting two of the legs of the P channel mosfets together. Is that just an illusion, or are you really doing that? It would be nice to see a bit more detail on the connection of these :) Maybe a link to the schematic at least. Thanks for the video.
Just follow the schematic it is correct. I remember connecting something wrong while recording because the camera was in a way and it wasn't comfortable to solder like I usually do 😁
Nice bro... Continue good work.. ❤
Thank you :)
Maybe I missed it, but is there a schematic somewhere?
I dont have a 3d printer. Is the box and front back panels available to buy?
Hi! The parts were available to buy but I don't really thinker with printers anymore since there's always something new to fix haha.. If you really don't have a way of printing it, you can try to find some 3D printing stores on Etsy and ask a couple for a quote
just the 3d printed enclosure is 90 dollars which is more expensive than a uni t bench power supply
Why you don't connect the voltage sense wire?
Looks great!
Thank you :)
hi there! Cool built! What is the yellow banana socket?
Hey, Thanks! The yellow socket is connected to the earth pin in the outlet. It may be used with an antistatic band and a current limiting resistor in series so you can hook yourself up to it while working with PCB so you don't damage something with electrostatic discharge
Thanks for this video. Decent PSUs are so expensive, why not make a project out of it eh. Was just wondering what 3D printer you use?
Printed on Prusa MK3s
very cool Project.
but because my english is not so good... would it be possible for you to create a sketch where you can see again what needs to be connected where and how?
Hey, I'll make a schematic in a few days when I get some time and I'll leave a link to it in the description
@@Djambo57 thank you so much =)
👏👏👏
Excellent.
Thank you :)
Dobar
You used many screens, connectors and mosfets by connecting them to each voltage separately ... When u can just use a one volt/Amp screen plus one "Rotary Switch" ... Just connect the yellow wire from the screen to select the voltage ur working on 12, 5 and 3.3V ... LEDS i dont see why u need mosfets to control them, just one for stand by plus one for power on ... I built my power supply like that from 5 years back (plus i added a temperature control for the fan to work from 37c to 42c) .. BUT the important thing is that you had fun :)
I needed to have all outputs available at any time because sometimes I have stuff that needs multiple voltage rails to operate...
For the LEDs, I wanted them to shine with the same brightness, I didn't have any smaller MOSFETs or transistors so I had to use these large ones
@@Djambo57 In that case u are right .. keep the good job
load resitor == Load Regulation or not? ,How to notice that already build in psu ,key word in datasheet please.
or it bleeder resistor ?
Voltage is too low and too bulky. Should use laptop psu usually has 20v.
Nice PSU u got there. I really like how it front panel looks, and your choice of elements to turn ATX into bench. I just don't get one thing. Why did you spend so much time creating this and leave it only 3, 5 and 12v, without adjustable voltage/current? there's enough room in the box for a module, and maybe if usb is on the side/top the screen and button of the module can be fitted on front panel. and it can get powered on from 12v rail
i rly don't see the point of making this, other than just out of passion and too much spare time. it looks really nice, but you can get pretty much the same effect if you just drill atx and add 4 terminals (3V,5V,12V, Ground)+fuses and find a way to live with urself without on/off and LEDs for each terminal.
If I am to build such a PSU myself again, prolly I'll use a significant part of your design, its inspirational :)
I wanted this supply to be a basic fixed one, I'll make an adjustable one in the future for sure!
The space inside the case was eaten up by the wires so I couldn't fit anything else even it I wanted to :/
It is the same thing if you made it by securing the bindings posts to the ATX supply's case but I wanted it to look like a finished product, that's my obsession with these projects :)
Can you send me diagram ??
It would have been easier to us relays
Didn't have any on hand :D
All that work just to supply 3 fixed voltages.
I'm working on an adjustable supply at the moment :)
Italiano? Ahahaha
no italiano!
complexo
MANY problems
- such PSUs are very noisy - the waveform is terrible
- when they fail they can destroy the load
- no current limiting
- no short-circuit protection
- not recommended for capacitive or inductive loads
- very high current at 5V so a short in the load will fry everything
- NOT for the novice as there is a MAINS voltage subsection
I'd say they are fine for someone who's just figuring out how LEDs and resistors work. It's quite handy to test stuff like fans, etc. I maybe went too far with the enclosure, but I really like how it looks, and I use it almost every day
@@Djambo57 "I'd say they are fine for someone who's just figuring out how LEDs and resistors work. "
Congratulations, you're a moron!
Di si đambo
Ты русский?
Я хорват :)
I totally disagree that OLD ATX PSUS are 'fine'. They are much more likely to break down. And when they do they can destroy whatever they are powering
Most ATX PS breakdowns are cause by leaky electrolytic Caps. Replace them and you're good to go.
@@paules0099 have seen many more active parts fail than caps in ATX PSUs
@@kennmossman8701 and that was what???
I'm still using my power bench atx PSU for about 12yrs, I started to build it in 2012 & works fine. 👌
Edit: there is recently a very cheap module an ATX power adapter that comes out in the market (Aideepen hu-m28w & XH-M299) you only need to plug the 24pin atx adapter on it.
Hi, i m vers happy to see your video you are a nice builder, but do you think to be able to build an oscilloscope with a décent refresh rate? And thanks again