How to: Battery Terminal Install. Better than Factory.
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
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This is the solder I used:
amzn.to/3wT6q8J
Battery Cable:
amzn.to/2PV4zQp
Watch until the end for a tip you'll want to see. You may also want to add a crimp for extra grip on the wire.
Great for stationary circuits. In most vehicles and aircraft the wires are subject to vibration and a quality crimp allows the wire to remain flexible. The solder joint creates a stiff point in the strands that can fatigue and break over time.
Same for maritime applications
I have hand crimped thousands of these working in the semi truck parts business. 99.9% of those mechanics wouldn't consider a solder joint nor would they have time. With the addition of a small heat shrink tube it makes the crimp joint nearly impervious.
Come to think of it, maybe he knows this and is just doing it for views
@@gtcam723 My 1970 EggHarbor 37, OEM 2/0 wires have all the lugs soldered on. They then wrapped it with black electrical tape. In 50 years, it never overheated and fell apart. Mostly though I agree the crimped cables are technically superior. Other thing is these large cables are very naturally stiff, a small hard spot in the end from solder has no effect on it breaking. Not in my experience. I have also made some of my own copper lugs from small sections of copper pipe. Made them to look like typical lugs, but have also simply put the copper tube 2 inches onto the striped wire, then used a 3 lb sledge hammer to smash them together. Drill a 3/8 hole in the end and sometimes solder sealed the end only. Now of course if your going to stack lugs, might be an issue cause the lugs you make that way will be 2 to 3 times thick where the stud bolts on. I have also used a tubing flare tool to crimp copper tubing onto wires. Works amazingly well, tighten it down and smash the flare tool with a sledge hammer. May have to rotate the crimp in the flare tool and hit it a few times. This can work very well if the copper tubing is a close fit for the wire gauge. If the copper tube is slightly too small for the wire gauge, you can heat the copper to anneal the tube, then run a drift into it with a hammer to expand it, then use it for the crimp. I did that recently for a 6 gauge wire and 1/4 copper tubing crimp.
@@TheBluegoatman Yes well that is a business. My time is my own time. heatshrink is a good idea. Also sealing the copper to the wire with tape first, then heat shrink is better. Truth is get this, blue painters tape, wrap a few turns around the joint, then heat shrink seals the water out. I find it better than black vinyl electric tape which over time leaks out this stick goo and it also fails to stick. And you can get adhesive lined heat shrink tubing, for a price... Anyway the blue painters tape actually holds up for years and years. Many wires in the past had paper liners under the insulation, same idea using paper tape, but not masking tape, that is no good.
Nothing beats the good old hydraulic crimper
Crimping is resistant to heat. It tends to hold the cable in place even at a high temperature. Soldered connection tends to loosen up if your cable heats up.
Yes and if it shorts it will melt that solder faster than shit through a goose.
Plumbing technique and materials should not be used for electical connections.
If it's a bad job for solder in the engine bay it will break up but he is using a different type of solder into solder needs more heat than a RadioShack heat gun
Correct!
👍
Presto, now u have a cold solder joint sure to fail since the cable was not heated sufficiently. Be sure to crimp 1st, then solder for rope heating, resulting in reliability and avoiding cold solder failures.
Not To mention that crimping provides less resistance than Solder due to copper being a better conductor
I agree. Crimp & then solder.
@@pedrorojascervantes3928 you both are incorrect there's no need to solder after a hydraulic crimp it already creates a fusion cold weld
Tuyệt vời
Yes wanted to say same and solder can contaminate copper which will lead to oxidizing and corrosion. IMO mechanical crimping is the best way, can be done with heavy hammer and dull chisel.
I do snow plowing for a while and that’s exactly what I did in the beginning but after about two years the ends would get corroded and fall off or stop making good connection then I went to a professional crimp and the crap is way better with Heat shrink tubing that’s the best way
Corroding due to environmental reasons (salts and water, dissimilar metals, H2So4 gas) and your new cables have protection from heat shrink and I bet coatings too.
That is a good way to develop a cold solder joint and to ensure the premature failure of your cables. If you want to have solid cables buy the correct crimp tool and do it the right way or pay to have it done. Good luck with that.
Absolutely agree !!!
I learned years ago, crimped joints won't break from vibration, but solder jionts absolutely will.. made me rethink a lot of my projects...
That is not what NASA has proved, or perfers.
@@bowez9source?
@@henmich NMEA recommendation is to crimp. Industry best practice (Google it) also recommends crimp.
Plumbing solder is generally acid core and you don't want to use acid core on electric connections.
My thoughts also.
Yeah don't use plumbing solder for electrical connections lol. He should've used the right solder. It will crack inside over time and probably other issues too
You are correct that acid core will cause corrosion that will make that cable useless. There will likely be 6-8 inches of corrosion in less than a year. Not good.
Don’t think that was acid core, just straight solder.
Plumbing solder is not acid core.
I'm so glad to see videos like this. People need to know exactly what NOT to do. Thank you!
bRAVO VOUS AVEZ RAISON.
Soldered connector is easly to broke when wire is often bending and streching... clamping connector is better in thic case.
In that case metal fatigue would sent in an would fail no matter what, either the cable, crimp, or connection.
A good test is to measure and compare voltage drop over the cables under heavy load. I would also recommend twisting the copper strands before crimping and then solder after crimping.
This will give you the strongest and lowest resistance joint.
In the cell phone site industry the engineers specify using Kopr Sheild and crimping. In the boating industry the connections must always be crimped. Although this may look good it would fail most inspections and the solder would absolutely melt under a high current load and the connection would almost certainly fail.
all the videos i have watched on this topic, you are the first one to say to use solder. everyone else seems to think its a bad idea with soders low melting point
If that wire ever gets hot enough to melt the solder , there will be much bigger things wrong .
@@kennethnevel3263
@@njineermike Soldering is allowed by code in electrical work but isn't commonly used because it takes too much time and labor.
@@LV_CRAZY Depends on the usage.
If the wire end gets hot enough to melt the solder. then you have a bad connection at the wire end. or possibly too much load caused by a faulty starter. providing it's in a starting circuit. on a good connection it should never get hot enough to melt the solder.
There's a very good reason why high current leads in high-power applications such as MRI are crimped - solder is very poor at resisting fatigue. Crimped cables are made that way to resist billions of operation cycles or oscillations, soldered joints begin to fail far more quickly. I can't think of a single plug or receptacle on a car that isn't crimped from the factory, and it's not just because it's cheaper than soldering.
Iow temp solder if cable heats up it will fail must be crimped for safty
Crimp first then fill gaps with solder to prevent oxidation.
A crimp is a mechanical connection 👍. Belt and braces 👍
If you solder anything its become solid, If you try to move that copper wire, It will brake little by little. Crimping connectors with RIGHT tool, will do the job.
@@milanmilicevic4618 only if it vibrates and is held perfectly rigid. With a slight amount of slack the oscillations can not propagate, have you ever tried to push a chain.
@@bowez9 you assume only the wire vibrates and wire has stiffness so vibrations are transmitted to connection.
Only thing rosin core solder is the only one for electrical use
PLUMBING SOLDER IS NOT FOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS. Also, paste flux is TYPICALLY ACIDIC for plumbing, you want ROSIN FLUX. Do not do what is in this video. Solder is to be used ONLY when there is ALREADY a PHYSICAL connection - as in CRIMP - also, do NOT heat the wire first. DO NOT DO WHAT THIS VIDEO SHOWS.
Took the words out of my mouth. We're not sweating copper pipe here...
I think this is just for millennia and Prius.
Thank you for posting your reply. In my mind this seems like a good idea at first but what you said makes much more sense. I am grateful for people like you that take the time to reply with correct information. It just saves a lot of hassle later on.
@@tonyfontes8935 Also, we use a wire brush on the inside of the terminal, CRC QD Contact Cleaner to clean the components, and then Deoxit before assembly and crimping to eliminate the corrosion that happens between different copper alloys, and then spray it with CRC 2-26 to protect it. Or, CRC Battery Terminal spray will protect it from moisture and other contaminants.
It's crazy how many absolutely terribly DIY repair videos become some of the most viewed
In the military I was trained to strip wires with a razor blade just as you did here, even much smaller wires. I still do it that way. You can put the blade in a pin vice and leave it protruding the thickness of the insulation, lay the wire on the blade, press with your finger and rotate the wire. It cuts the insulation perfectly without nicking the conductor. The only other option we were allowed to use was thermal strippers. This isn’t very practical for one wire but if you get the procedure down, it works quick and is really handy for multiple wires.
Brillant idea. Complète pain when dealing with expensive cables and you nick one of the inner wire's insulation.
As a 25yr sparkie, I've never used a safety razor blade, the last 20yrs I haven't used a utility knife. A well kept splicers knife or edc pocket knife is actually preferred for higher voltage or amperage. Not going to knock the military members, but the training they give you sucks. 2 trips to Afghanistan as a civ to fix wiring done by our military.
@@Boreamear- Gotcha, That sound like bigger stuff than what I deal with. 22-16ga typically the smaller end of that range. Zero stretch allowed on the insulation, zero nicks on the conductors. Inspected and “bought off” by an inspector typically with a 10x magnifier. I’m sure none of my work has been redone because of quality.
I always used electricians scissors. It was always the fastest way for me to strip wires.
To get the professional crimp on a lug use the correct size lug for the cable and the correct type of crimper usually crimped two or more times to maximise surface area contact between the wire and lug.
But what if you only need a couple of crimps for a small basic off grid solar system ?
Throw some heat shrink on there, it'll look really pro then.👍
Grow up. It’s fine
right on with the shrink tube, i been doing it too, customers like it and coment on it as well
@@barryross1191 sure
@@barryross1191
You don’t understand soldering.
@@barryross1191 100% on the heat shrink tubing if using solder connections. Working in the marine field, any bare wire exposed to moisture can and will corrode.
OMG, are you using acid core solder ? Acid core will corrode and cause high resistance. Use these techniques with QUALITY electrial solder and you will have a long term repair. Can't tell you how many times I've seen corroded electrial connections due to acid core solder.
Rosin core solder for electrical.
Acid for plumbing.
Used this technic for years.
You can't use plumber's solder on battery cable because it has a low melting point, unlike the solid lead terminal connectors made for batteries
I doubt the melting point will be an issue, but 63/37 solder would be best just because it's eutectic. It goes completely from liquid to solid at a single temperature. Still, even non-eutectic is OK but the joint must be kept completely still until completely solidified.
This works
@@zoobrizz sure it works but no one dares to try it for their own cars.
@@zoobrizz ...WITH THE CORRECT SOLDER AND NO ACID TYPE FLUX!
@@tonyr8443 I have over 15yrs ago without issue, while factory cable rotted.
I do both crimp first than soldier , this way if anything ever happens and the soldier should ever get to hot for whatever reason you still have a crimp .
Used to do the same but not anymore. Will losen when heated o break due to bending fatigue. Crimping far safer!
.
Thanks for the video. I'm building a solar battery system for my van. The van build guys are saying to cold weld/crimp rather than solder.
Soldering has its specific applications if this is Automotive better of crimping as it allows the cable to flex and not break off at solder joint. Also soldering can cause other issues like higher resistance which is bad if you have a very high load.
True!
Crimp with a hydraulic crimper, solder to seal it, shrink tubing filled with Vasoline. But that only needs done where you use them directly on Lead Acid batteries. Other places just crimp and shrink tubing.
I crimp and then solder my connections just in case the solder happens to break or melt for some strange reason. Just a back up measure.
YEP
Solder will break. It make the connection rigid and susceptible to cracking from vibration.
Had that happen. I too crimp, then soldier.
Yeah agreed.
Not supposed to solder crimps.
Had a tool just for crimping ends on to cables. With technic shown here, will work, but is doomed for failure from fatigue and corrosion.
Motorsports wiring suggest to crimp all connectjon as solder will always have some level of resistance.
I did it like you sbow in video 10 years ago. The connections loosened. I reheated copper ends and crimped while hot to have a mechanical connection along with the old solder. Helped and connection doesn't get hot anymore.(noticed problem when I touch it and was hot and then noticed it was a bit loose.
In future I will crimp only.
I would love to see your solder joint sawed through to see the solder penetration into the core of the wire bundle.
It won't be unless you heat the wire before shoving it in there. If you don't heat it first you had better heat lug really good after it's in the molten solder or it will be a cold weld
@@rmblwgn you need more heat than just a short, few seconds, of flame to heat the wire enough to really soak in the solder.
@@FlexDRG I know that's what I was saying. ppl who only heat up Lug just until solder melrs are going to have a cold joint
@@rmblwgn i usually tin the wire first, then the lug with some solder and with the warm lug i insert the wire and keep the heat going a while longer to remelt the tin on the wire. But I also at times, crimp the lug onto the wire and then add solder for better electrical contact. (At least in my mind)
If you have heated the solder up enough, it flows nicely into the cable strands. I have been making batter relocation harnesses for 20 years and I have never had one fail. Cars have been in accidents where they were totaled, and the cables have parted or the terminal lugs have broken at the attach point, but the cable has NEVER come out of the cup.
THIS GUY HAS IT ALMOST RIGHT!!!! NO FLUX AND USE THE RIGHT SOLDER, AND YA GOLDEN!!!
having made several of them, I will remove the flange on the outter part of the connector, install a heat shrink to cover the transhion from the wire to the connector, No Biggie, it just makes it look better,,,,, Thanks for your post
A wise old man showed me that years ago but he used the lead from an old battery terminal works great and you give no one anything to complain about.
Keep up the good work.
Good job, i make my own also. I use copper tubbing. Cut off length then hammer down one end and drill your hole for bolt to go through.. then solder your wire like you did..
I have trouble drilling the copper, seems to grab. Any tips?
Never solder powersupply cable. The solder joint can head up and loosen.
Brother, your videos are amazing.
Thank you for sharing!!!
I've been an electrician for 20 years and yes that connection looks good and will probably work good. I just don't have the time for all that. I have an expensive crimp tool that is probably still rated as more of a permanent connection. Yours looks good though and I wouldn't have any problem installing it, I just would have cut a straight end on the wire before installing. Good work, get a dang utility knife please lol.
I really hope you're lying about being an electrician.
@@studog7851 not at all
@@studog7851 I gave the video poster his accalaids and said I wouldn't have a problem installing his style. What was it?, the part about I dont have time for it or that a crimp is more of a permanent mechanical connection? Where's the disbelief?
@@studog7851 oh I see what your comment was about the solder material and that this guy is an idiot. I was trying to be diplomatic with the poster and not be too rude. I agree that people who don't know what their doing shouldn't give demonstrations of the wrong way to do something. Most people take these videos with a grain of salt and may still educate themselves before trusting the poster, I hope.
@@Jzzonem Hey Scott, I just have a sure point about people demonstrating poor electrical work on UA-cam, its not responsible and can be deadly. Not sure where you're from but it is illegal to do your own electrical work in my country without a licence and the amount of rubbish on UA-cam and misinformation is not helpful. And it just takes one person to not take advise with a grain on salt. In response to "I wouldn't have any problem installing it". I would not install a cold soldered connection on anything (boat, house, toy car or whatever), and I am not an electrician but as a licensed builder, if I sure this on my job site the sparky would be out on his arse, no question.
Im a union commercial plumber and im mind blown rn. This is how ill be doing my cables from now on. Thank you!
BUT DO NOT USE THAT DAMNED SOLDER OR THE FLUX!!! ITS THE WRONG KIND FOR ELECTRICAL CABLES AND WILL CAUSE MASSIVE CORROSION!!! YOU MUST USE 'ELECTRICAL' SOLDER!!! AND NO NEED FOR THE FLUX IF YOU CLEAN THE INSIDE IF THE TERMINAL CUP WITH A BRASS BRUSH OR A GREEN SCRUBY PAD!!!
I HAVE BEEN MAKING BATTERY RELOCATION HARNESSES FOR 20 YEARS AND I HAVE MADE HUNDREDS, AND THIS IS THE WRONG SOLDER AND FLUX BEING USED HERE!!!
@@ssnerd583 thank you for that heads up
I would advise always crimping this style of connector. No one is going to use it to repel off of a mountain. A crimped connector will hold even if the connector gets too hot due to a poor connection which may become loose over time.
Plumbing solder is the wrong type for electrical use. It is best to use a hydraulic crimper for these types of terminals. If you are going to solder, you can buy solder slugs from an electrical terminal supplier that contain flux and are properly sized for the terminal.
Dude you sound like Steve Buscemi (You don't look anything like him though)!
Hey I do something similar with 1/2 copper pipe. I still use solder but I usually extend the copper sleeve up the cable and softly hex crimp it. This keeps the cable from bending near weakest spot (the solder joint).
Thanks for posting this up mate!
All the best from OZ,
Ben
Lol.. I can hear him right enough..
I solder those types of terminals with a high temperature rosin core electronic solder, no additional flux needed. Don't use plumbers solder or plumbers flux. In high temperature applications as you demonstrated, the insulation will fail before the solder connection does. I'd also recommend using a soldering iron tip on your torch to prevent hitting the terminal with an open flame to help avoid burning the insulation.
This is how a youtuber do engineer work, not a trully engineer
Properly crimped terminals are more reliable than soldered barrels. They will handle higher current and provide better strain relief. If the plumbing solder has flux core the acid flux used in plumbing promotes corrosion of the cables and any electronics nearby will suffer effects of the acid. If care is not taken to prevent the solder from wicking up the cable strands under the insulation the added rigidity to the stranded cable will increase stress to the terminal under vibration
As a retired high voltage electrian, we never soldered any connections. Connections were either crimped or mechanical or bolted. But in the electronics world, well thats a different story.
Keep your cell phone handy for calling a tow truck when your cold solder joint fails.
Here is another tip. Hydraulic crimping is the ONLY way to install lugs on power cables. Anything else is resistants getting in way of current flow. This is where you are not getting your money’s worth when the full beans is applied. Voltage drop is the most important thing to watch for. You could actually starve your equipment.
Applying solder to the wire is called tinning.
Use less solder and add a crimp.
Dissimilar metals and DC current cause oxidation. copper and solder and DC current overtime, will oxidize, that's why we use a crimping tool for that terminal.
There's a reason those terminals are crimped on. The Achilles heel to your method is if the connection ever becomes loose the resulting resistance will create heat which can be high enough to melt your "sodder" and the connection falls apart. When this happens under a load the arc created at the time of separation can ignite the hydrogen given off by a weak battery thus causing an explosion.
For those who follow his fouled advice do yourself a favor and use solder and flux that does NOT contain acid. By using materials meant for electrical connections you needn't have to worry about.
You do appear to make a good electrical connection, but crimping it will give you a good mechanical connection as well.
Wow you’re a rocket scientist I have done that for over 30 years as an auto tech! I just use a vice though instead of that bullshit you used!
Hey man I have been "hooked" on your channel ever since I watched your "trucker hitch" video on You Tube...
So since you are a "smart feller" who likes a challenge, How do I get you to do A VID? About A soda can stove diy of course
WE've got to start recycling all these aluminum cans???!!!
Hey Kevin, I’ll try and make one in the next few days. Thanks for the comment.
@@First_Class_Amateur In Colorado we do a lot of back-packing and camping and boating and I would love to see a quick can stove out of recycled pop cans into a "jet-stove" with your "special twist" as always Thank brother..
(Btw:
Brent, you sure must be doing something right, I'm looking at a few of the "hater comments" just jealous because they do NOT have the 'drive and ambition" to make great simple videos!)
The critical factor missing from your method is a good mechanical connection between the cable and the terminal. That is the point of crimping.
Crimp is best. That will be a high resistance cold joint, with unknown amount of air gaps ready for breakage and corrosion.
I'm so glad someone finally made a video on this. I've been doing this for years and it always shocks people when I do it this way
People are shock because it's not correct. If I seen this done to my car I would never return. Jerry rig everything. True sign of no education. This guy is what we technician call a Shady Tree Mechanic. They give us a bad reputation because they have convinced themselves that they know what they are doing.
@@jasonk795 can you please explain what he did wrong?
@@sanpepsiman1277 no crimp. Crank in the starter too long and the cable heats up from the resistance and melts the low temp solder. There goes the cable at the connector. There are shops that will crimp it for you if you don't have the correct tool. People giving bad repair lessons. Now others are going to do this. Creating more problems.
@@jasonk795 Thanks fam, dodged a big one here
Same here, it literally freaks people out. The only thing I do different is I prep the copper with a wire brush, and then crimp it a bit before soldering.
If the cable gets hot the solder could melt 😩 i always crimp the lug
Yes, that can happen. Even below the actual "melting point" comes the "softening point" for any material that can phase change between solid and liquid. When it softens, it can come loose even without actually melting.
That's why all cables are crimped inside of a car's engine bay and never soldered. In aircraft, that extra hold of a crimp during high heat could give pilot enough time to land the craft in case of some on-board fire or other overheat situation.
I read that solder, as strong as it is, was never meant to provide mechanical hold. Solder starts softening at 90°C too. High power machines like combustion engines, turbines, can get that hot too in their bays. Not impossible to reach those temps from high amperage either. This solder-only solution is asking for trouble.
But, for my Anderson Powerpoles connectors, I've actually crimped first and then flowed in some solder into the crimped wire. Not sure that could work in extra thick cables like this though.
ALWAYS CRIMP
That joint MUST BE TIGHT, No solder needed, A heavy gauge wire like that must be crimped.
If your cable gets to 300+ deg F you have much bigger problems. But crimping is often better because it doesn't create a brittle strain point right next to the connector, which is where the cable will fail from fatigue stress.
My adhd thanks you for getting right to the point holy fuhhhh
proper lug size, and proper size crimp die are the approved methods for terminals or splices. There are zero codes or standards that allow for a "soldier" only splice or termination.
I was always taught to make a good mechanical connection first, never depend on solder for that. I do both, crimp then solder.
Yea was going to say , Come On Man where's your Shrink Wrap?
Maybe apply flux to both conductors, tin the stranded copper, crimp the connector, heat again?... Or, after crimping stranded wire with only flux on it, solder and the flux will draw it in. I like your video, just a few ideas.
The previous owner of my Trans Am decided to switch from side terminals to top but, the +’s have 3 cables and -‘s 2 to the battery. He crammed 2 cables into a single cable. After time it roasted the bcm. I ended up rewiring my starter, fuse box and alt.
You have to crimp them when u do that
On bigger truck with heat shoulder fall out
Best is to crimp and use what he did
Mechanical crimps done with the proper hexagonal compression crimpers don't melt.
All this time I’ve been okie crimping ! Great fix 👍
Crimp before soldering just soldering is a no go the solder is electrically resistive and will heat up during high current loading (60+amps) and can melt causing a partial connection causing additional heating and full failure possibly even starting the wire insulation on fire. Crimping first prevents this possibility... My trick is I take an engineers hammer place the connector on a hard flat surface with the cable and flux already inserted give a good wack or 2 to the terminal socket crimping it solidly (my crimps are strong enough that either the cable or the terminal eye will fail when pulled across the crimp(had a guy test one when he pulled an engine I had replaced the cable on 5yrs prior and forgot to remove the engine to chassis ground cable I made actually picking the front end of the 91 Dodge d350(1ton diesel) from the ground by that OO gauge copper cable). Then I give it some electrical solder and sleeve it with 2 layers of marine electical shrink tubing shorter piece first covering the connection second overlaps the ends of the first and reinforces/protects the connection from flexing (the marine grade heat shrink tubing contains a heat set epoxy that adds an extra layer of water penetration protection). This is the proper way to make a professional battery cable eye connection. (However because it takes too long most mechanics don't do this heck you're lucky if they don't use the cheap non permanent/temporary use clamp on battery cable ends).
You really need a crimp, the heat from prolonged cranking will melt the solder, and plumbers flux adds a corrosive to two dissimilar metals. Your connection is on the road to corrosion already. You can google "galvanic reaction." If you do as many ends as you make it appear, buy a mini bolt cutter and drill and file the jaws to make a crimper. Most cutters have enough jaw to make two or more crimp sizes. Place one jaw in the bench vice and pull the opposite handle for good quality crimps every time.
the last part is key .
2 copper is best plated in zink or other non reactive metals .
since it tends to collect the green stuff and stop charging .
if you dip it in tin it will last longer
This is somewhat better than an incorrectly crimped connection. Too often compromises are made when the correct crimping tool is not used. He’s y gauge Crimping should be done at the workshop. I often opt for professionally pre-crimped when out and about.
Thanks for the great educational video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music while you're talking. I don't know why some people are compelled to add annoying background music throughout their videos.
Friend, you and I are twin sons from different mothers; I have commented on many videos exactly the way you did on this one. I despise and detest overpowering, overly loud, inappropriate, and annoying background music in videos like this… Or for any other videos for that matter. Background music is WAY OVERRATED.
@@adobemastr way cool bro!
I actually have the text saved so I don't have to type it out every time. Sometimes I make minor mods for a particular video creator. So far I only remember one creator replying to me. He said he has poor command of the English language, & I tried to give him some confidence to give it a try anyway. Best to you, say hi to mom.
Как же прав был Задорнов
Oceanside… nice
Did you know that open flames cause the cable to oxidise which can increase the electrical resistance? Its fine for copper pipes since you would use earth bonding anyway
This isnt a bad video overall, i personally prefer a 'cold weld' or a crimp on my battery connections. Whether it be a hammer, vise or plier style of crimper, i always prefer to crimp my copper connections. A proper cold weld can also hold your body weight if done properly. I think your video is good you just overshadow how well a conventional pressed crimp unto a wire can be.
Acid flux and cold solder joints !
Reall electrician this guy.
I did this on some cables I made, when you drop out that excess solder just fold it up and drop into the next connection
Good job, it really helps thanks
after soldering then use crimping tool :) thats solid :)
solder not coast guard approve , you need to crimp the ends , if the wire gets too hot the solder will heat up and wire come loose
I subbed because you created the perfect Jorgensen clamp .
Hi my name is Jorge
You should use rosin based flux for electrical connections. The acid based plumbing flux will corrode the wire over time.
I think such type of cable terminals must be crimpted, not soldered.
Looks pretty but when that wire heats up from a loose connection, that's gonna pull apart.
Anything that needs that large of a cable WILL melt the solder. It MUST be crimped. Do what you want. You WILL end up crimping. That's why the crimp was on the factory made wire. Just saying. Some folks named to learn the hard way.
Steve. It is probably an Earth cable, it has two ring terminals.
Crimping connector is way batter than soldering. Maybe solder is stronger but when you have a lot of movement, solder will brake.
Yes sir, this is the right way!
3) yeah i did that and still get a voltage drop whether i touch the leads to the battery terminal or the battery cable, i get 12.6 or 12. 7 volts everytime (edit: but i get 11.7 or so at the cables) so i never amp tested the battery, i thought it had to be the leads but the interior light had been left on overnoight how it began , and the battery is dated 2019 so seemed like maybe it was sos so , i don't know if the voltage drop is...i'll test the battery and go from batteyr instead because maybe there won't be the half volt or whatever ...it's a pain to solder those down in the hood but it looks like the cables go into the wiring harness , i found the battery cables on r*ck auto for like $6- $22 depending on length and one is like the stock one , the copper boots were almost $12 for 6 (3 2 packs but i'lll return one size.....take care thanks again i'll need the tips elsewhere sometime too ...
This is really interesting. Thank you!
GREAT VIDEO GOOD IDEA THANKS
I didn’t expect to see an Oceanside shirt! Weird you popped up in my suggested - I grew up in south O
Under high current draw that solder will melt out .
Nice cold solder joint, looks good but does not function well electrically speaking. Cramp then solder then seal with heat shrink, that's how to do it.
Good job.
Congratulations.
I enjoyed this video and it actually tempted me to replace the end connectors on my battery cables. I clean my battery cables and clamps twice a year fall & spring to maintain a good electrical connection. One question I have is are you really improving the electrical connection if plumbing solder-which isn’t copper-is sandwich between the copper end connector and the copper wire? (Being facetious: Getting the professional look is the real goal here for a cable that will connect to the battery under a car hood and never be seen by anybody. I always try to get a professional weld on my exhaust pipes as well. 😅)
Careful on factory replacement cables, they are typically copper coated aluminum.
Most plumbing solder is acid core. Never use it on copper wire.
Just learned something new
What a bad repair that will fail? Monkey see money do. Do it right or don't do it at all.
I had to repair a huge battery cable that had corroded through, once. I wound up using a 4" piece of copper pipe, and putting both cable stubs through into it, and doing this to both ends.
Then, I drilled a 1/4" hole in the top middle, and filling the rest with solder to make it a solid piece.
It lasted for many years.
I used linerless splicing tape to cover it, then slid a 8" piece of shrink tube over it to finish the job.
All this, because some ASE mechanic decided that the double layer of liquid electrical tape looked like something else.
Instead of asking, he just peeled it off and exposed the prior damage to the insulation.
The first repair had worked for a year with no chance of corrosion.
After his stunt, it didn't last long.
Looks cool, but for a RV or boat I would prefer to a mechanical crimped one
Wrong
A half moon back dye with a center tooth crimp is the best mechanical connection you can get.. solder attracts corrosion.. I repaired locomotives for 12 years and saw all types of failures.. quality crimps never failed on 1000 amp motors... the crimp shape is very important though..
The reason this isn't done is because it causes the cable to become brittle and break with vibration.
With all due respect. Crimp, then solder. Measurable difference under high current conditions.