Two things: don't use your bare hands to spread flux. It is acid and eats your skin. Not quickly, but it is not good to do. The second: if you can get the lug hot enough to melt the solder joint, your truck is on fire and you have much bigger problems. Just thoughts from a plumber.
@@danielpatton3317 Owned one myself lots of years ago. Body rotted off but wish I had kept it. I'm a Jeep guy but won't belong to club that's not all inclusive. Life is too short.
@@jake-hy2zb yea, I've got body image issues too. Tailgate is rotted, quarters are more Bondo than metal. But I love her. And I will rebuild it better than before. Time is all I need.
@@danielpatton3317 heat at lug due to high current can be localized when the lug to wire connection has a higher resistance than the rest of the electrical system handling the same amount of amps. When this happens you could have high enough temperatures to melt solder without the wire's insulation catching fire much less the entire car. Having said that, I don't think worrying about the solder melting makes much sense because if the solder melted, something else in the system has gone wrong to enable the wire/lug to get that hot. Poor lug connection was made, lug connection was starting to fail due to vibration, fusing was incorrect, drawing more current than the system was designed to handle, maybe something else.
@@lorne1325 i just know how hot you have to get a joint to solder. If its that hot, something else is terribly wrong and more than likely, youre going to have a fire. Plus i think i was trying to be funny. It was a while ago lol.
What I do at 12:32 to the strand of wires is I use a zip tie backwards (flipped so it won’t lock), pull zip tie closed and get it really tight, leave a small amount of wire in the tip so you can insert the wire into the terminal without any strands off wire coming out. Then once it’s almost all inserted, remove the zip tie. & You’ve finally installed the wire all in place with no strands of wire coming off. Works every time for me! I hope this makes sense!
Put a dental floss wire two times round the copper wire as far as possible to the end. A pair of extra hands would be helpfull pulling the dental floss wire.
I love this guy! He is very knowledgeable and he remembers that his audience is mostly do it yourselfers. He covers every aspect of the project in a friendly manner and lots of visuals. ‘
Yep, solder through the "inspection hole" after crimping so it really locks it in forever and it won't wick up the cable making it stiff right where the cable enters the crimped part.
You dont need to hot solder if you have the proper crimping force to crimp it becomes monolithic ots called a cold self . Solder just allows corrosion faster @tullgutten
This! It is not about what is convenient. The soldered copper strands gets stiff when soldered, and can get fatigued/break as the cable vibrates or moves over time.
@@smjerbetsk exactly. Have seen this a lot on dirt bikes that repaired connections with solder. On the other hand.. The plastics even vibrate through aluminium subframes..
@@bikemannc on a vehicle crimped for sure! But let's say a part of the copper wires is solidly crimped for 2cm then it does not really matter if the first cm has solder on it. Although solder has more resistance
On a battery terminal I use both. A crimped connection is generally the best but on a battery terminal a crimped connection will allow the battery acid to wick into the connection causing it to corrode. Solder will prevent this from happening because it fills the gaps between the individual strands. The trick is to just heat the terminal lug or the battery terminal only and push the wire into the melted solder inside the connector. Doing this will minimise the solder making the wire stiff. Solder is drawn to the heat so if you just heat the connector the solder will tend to flow towards the connector reducing how much solder goes to the wire. Don't go crazy with the heat
Crimping is better in coastal and marine applications because dissimilar metals in solder joints lead to galvanic corrosion hidden inside the lug. Clear heat shrink tube allows you to see the cable condition exiting the lug where mechanical failures often occur. Informative and thought provoking video. Great job.
Thank you, no fake show here, awesome video, teach, learn and decide. After this, a $20 tool with my big hammer is how I will do it moving forward. Thanks again for your knowledge.
I stumbled upon this video looking for information about doing solar panels and battery setups for camping and this makes me feel far better and way more comfortable about doing it than I did this morning.
Well done ! I have used all of the methods shown. All will work in an automotive application if done correctly. I wish somebody would have offered this information to me when I started out as a mechanic 35 years ago.
Hammer crimper does a great job and is cheap. Adhesive in your shrink tubing is essential. Those two together work perfect. If on a budget spend money on the adhesive shrink tubing before paying for a more expensive crimper.
@@nullernullson6749 Given that all connections should be soldered anyway, the physical connection will do fine to mechanically hold the termination in place.
@@patrickwassall116 Soldering heavy cable is inferior to a quality crimp done by quality tools; soldering is not an approved method in certain industries (such as aerospace) for a reason.
@@nullernullson6749 I agree. There is no reason to solder the wire after a proper crimp is made. Copper to Copper is a preferred connection. Also Flux if that didn't all burn off I have seen it oxidize copper . You often see this on cold water lines that were soldered and they can even pit. I personally would never solder a battery connection. Oxidation develops on metal when heat, a metal alloyed with copper and oxygen are all present so I wouldn't want to add flux and heat the wire. When you overheat the copper you can see the bluing on it... oxidation. As a rule of thumb with electrical connection I prefer to stay all with 1 metal, thats just me though. On my old school Crimp connects before all these amazing fancy crimpers that work amazing If i Did these I would add 2 small slits partially around the outside, so basically that small little band I created can now press down and also lock the wire along with a hammering crimp, this way I know that wire is not moving, then I heat shrink over. I do another strange thing too... When i cut the insulation off I take a small piece of heat shrink or wrap where the insulation was cut off and then heat shrink over the whole thing after the connector and crimp, I think it looks nicer as it isnt just flush but 1/8 inch I guess is under the Crimp, stops insulation from any mushrooming or if someone is yanking on wire I dont want the insulation pulled back and a "soft" spot between the insulation and the outer copper
I’ve watched a bunch of Crimping videos today while researching what tool to buy. AND THIS IS BU FAR THE BEST CRIMPING VIDEO I’ve found. Well done Sir!
I love the idea of crimp and then solder. Gives you all the benefits of both. I'm replacing 3/0 cables on a large tractor and that is the way I've decided to go.
Crimp AND solder. Crimp for mechanical strength and retention. Solder to fill all (most) voids and maximize conductivity, thus minimizing resistance. At least, those are my thoughts. This is a REALLY good video on how to construct and fasten lugs. It helped me a lot!
Solder isn't ideal for high vibration environments and is more susceptible to corrosion. Where the solder ends creates a pivot point that eventually fails. A very well done solder connection will do better than a poor crimp, but a high quality crimp is the best option.
Amazing how pertinent battery terminals are on these jeeps! On my 99 WJ, I just replaced, 30 minutes ago, those marine terminals. The material was so soft, no matter how tight I'd crank them down, they'd come loose. For a week, I've been dealing with the jeep cranking, but not turning over... like my fuel pump went out. Checked the schrader valve, all good. Ironically, as soon as I let go of the key, it'd start. I broke down and bought hard zinc terminals for $15 pair. Back in business!
Hey again... I forgot to let everyone know that (IMHO) while watching your work I felt like a student who wanted to be in class! Hope the other offerings are as enjoyable!
Great video. I must admit I have always considered the hammer crimper a little sketchy, but after watching this I would say it did a better job than I would have ever thought possible.
Matt, i know it's 2 year old video. But this is really helpful video for me, i have saved this video in my list. So i went out did some shopping, i am now stocked up on supplies for what i need to do. I did some solder only on 2 gage lug for dodge Cummins. Cables were bad, needed replacing. Now I'll try various versions like you did. Thanks for the video. I happened to find this video on Google :)
Good show. Battery cables and their end pieces are so important to be done correct. There are so many vehicles out there with poor cable connections to the battery. I think the hammer crimp and followed up with the solder would be the best value. The two crimper types are just as fine but in my observation, they didn't provide that much value or advantage on the workbench version, maybe they could excel more when working in a more restricted location such as under the hood with the other end of the cables connected to their locations. Although, if you need a nice pair of cable cutters, the $29 crimper would be the best value. It seems that the flux & solder with the crimp simply adds another "crimp" to the crimp or seals up and fills voids within the crimp in the event it isn't "perfect", the solder makes up for that especially with its mechanical grip to the copper lug and cable. Love the heat shrink idea to put icing on the job. Once you do these, your cables will be likely forever maintenance free. Thanks for the show.
Thanks for putting this together and putting it out there. Quite informative, especially the cutting to view the crimp quality. Awesome! There is no substitute for a quality crimp, not even solder. Solder is great as a conductor but is not a not considered a solid mechanical connection. So the two together is the best of both worlds. Since most solder joints require an additional mechanical connection, and that is only possible here by crimping, crimping is the proper way to go, even if solder is not added. Plus, solder will create an improved electrical connection that will resist corrosion.
When I looked at the $20 crimp it just visually looks like a better crimp over the others. And as cheap as it is it's easy to pick over the others. I would think that soldering after crimping but I think that may be Overkill. Great vid!
When you strip the wire, only pull the stripped section forward a tiny little bit then twist it as you pull it off. That will make the wire strands stay together nice when you put them in the terminal
This is probably the best video on this subject. I just set up a small 12 volt power station. I used 2/0 awg Flex-A-Prene welding cable. 1/0 awg x 5/16" tin plated copper cable lugs with glue lined heat shrink. The crimp tool used is the lever type "HX-50B" with a crimp range of 10 awg to 1/0 awg After stripping off 3/4" of sheath from the cable, I placed a small zip tie tightly around the conductor strands and slid the zip tie almost to the end of the strands (after strands are inserted in lug, break off zip tie). It is an extremely tight fit, but the 2/0 awg cable can be inserted into the 1/0 awg lugs. I used the largest die on the tool, the 1/0 awg size. Because it takes a great deal of force to crimp the lug, you only need to crimp once on the back of the lug closest to the lug flare. PRO TIP: Prior to inserting the cable strands, coat the inside of the lug with a small amount of die-electric grease. No solder used (or needed). Power station componets: INVERTER: Nature Power 38320 Pure Sine Wave Inverter, 2000-watt. Reg. price is $300, on sale for $148 at Walmart. Current Tractor Supply price: $549.99 BATTERY: CloudEnergy LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery 12V 150Ah with Built-in 100A BMS. BATTER CHARGER: Timeusb 14.6V 40A Fast Charging LiFePO4 Battery Charger. Again, excellent job doing this video. Cheers!
Great video. I have made my own out off coper pipe before but i put the wire all the way in then smash it flat and drill so the wire is all the way through and the nut will help keep it tight
Awesome video! Love your idea of making your own battery terminals - that's something I've never thought about! Considering the fact that I've wrestled with finding battery terminals late at night (for hours!) in a cluttered shop, with a pile of copper tubing within arm's reach makes me feel like a bit of an idiot! Just to kick start the conversation about soldering versus crimping, the reason OE manufacturers crimp (or swage) everything instead of solder is NOT (as most people believe) because swaging or crimping is faster. At the scale of industrial manufacturing, a solder connection would be much, much faster and more economical- it is about durability. At the heart of every good electrical connection is a good mechanical connection, and in a rugged environment, soldier alone will not stand up to the vibration, mechanical stresses or heat cycles that are present in automotive and marine applications (former marine rigger and automotive fab guy here). Anybody who says that crimp connections (more accurately called swage connections) are not as strong or have failed them in the past were either using inexpensive tools to make the unions, using the tooling incorrectly, or purchased poorly manufactured connectors. The only case where soldering make sense is when you are dealing with very small gauge signal wires, typically 22 gauge or smaller... And this is only when an OE connector is not available or will not fit through a pass-through. To make these work takes special considerations and many steps to ensure that the union will remain stable over time. If you don't believe me, compared super cheap pre manufactured battery cables that have flame soldered connectors versus high-end cables produced by a racing spec manufacturer (or a military contractor)...
Ewing Fox yea I feel dump searched for hours all over for my copper lugs went through my scrap metal pail setting the 12” sections of copper pipe on the ground that were in the pail lol
@@manatee1999 I just saw this comment now! Hopefully you've already gone out and bought one, the best tools are the hand pump hydraulic units with a variety of inserts for various gauges. Much more attainable are the units to use a hammer, or fit in the jaws of a vice (I like those less, however) - I'd start with a set of the dies for a hammer personally unless you are planning on doing a lot of these. We had a very high quality unit that was manufactured by Wurth, and a companion tool by the same brand for doing button flares for brake and fuel lines. Regardless of what route you go, you should be able to hang from a battery cable you make and swing like Tarzan! If you wouldn't trust it to that test, do it again!
This is a direct quote: Per Mercury Mercruiser Service Manual Number 31, Section 4, Electrical System; Battery Cable Recommendations: "IMPORTANT: The terminals must be soldered to the cable ends to ensure good electrical contact. Use electrical grade (resin flux) solder only. Do not use acid flux solder as it may cause corrosion and failure." My guess is that Mercury Marine knows a thing or two about marine wiring. Personally I have 30+ years maintaining weapons systems on nuclear submarines, I crimp and solder.
Awesome, Matt! Never made a cable before, but that "hydraulic" tool seems like it'd just be annoying to use after a while...seems too slow. Impressed with how well the simple hammer tool compressed the cable in the terminal. Thanks for the info!
The hand pump hyro crimpers are not any better than the cheaper pliers models. About he lowest tier one I would suggest has what looks like a cordless drill hooked to it but is in the couple of hundred price range. Not something the normal DIY guy wants to spend at all. Hell even doing it for a living it still stings the wallet.
I soldered my battery cables when I built my CJ7... I use the solder plugs and they worked great for me. Seeing the crimpers though, I like the ease of use, the portability and the results. Thanks! thumbs up and shared.
Nice video, very helpful. Personally I prefer the hammer crimp and it has the advantage of being the cheapest option, which is always nice. Saw another video using copper tubing to make your own crimps and is definitely the way to go in my opinion as screw ups happen and a few pennies wasted is a lot better than having to throw away factory made ones.
Great comparison. Making your own terminals is something I never thought to try. I have a crimper that is small and has a nut so that you can use an impact gun to crimp. It's very useful when doing repairs on the vehicle where you may not have room
I was told by John Deere ag tech school that crimping is always the better connection because soldering will crack and fail under vibrations but being there are humans involved they all will fail at one point or another lol
Not to mention failing from the HEAT created from a deteriorated connection. If you're insistent on using solder, CRIMP it first and then flux and sweat in the solder. It will help prevent INTERNAL corrosion.
@@anthonymarino4260 Untrue Anthony. Nearly every production vehicle today has a soldered (or metal impregnated) battery terminal design to prevent acid induced corrosion. Look at any older vehicle with a simple crimp and you'll see massive corrosion which is a major cause of 'battery failure' as perceived by vehicle owners. Almost no one does it that way anymore for good reason.
@@anthonymarino4260 that is not a standard to go by. Cars are built as cheap as possible. If thats the way you think in your head, i want to stay far away from you.
I sell a ton of lugs for medium and high voltage industrial application. They ALWAYS crimp. Sell a ton of dies for various 1/0 to 4/0 wires as a result. The installer uses an electric crimper, usually a milwaukee crimper. The part of making our own lugs was genius! Thanks!
Great info. The proof at the end was excellent. I was debating which crimper to use. Seems like I can’t go wrong with these different methods. Thanks for posting.
I have used the first one with a hammer for a long time. It has worked great for me and I live around a very salty environment. South florida is humid and salty both.
Good video! I use a crimper myself as an electrician. If the dies are thinner you can move the crimper and crimp it in two different spots. I have access to hydraulic and adjustable crimpers like the one you used after the hammer crimp which I though was just fine for battery leads. Good video!
As an aircraft electrician i never soldered the power wires from aircraft generators. Most aircraft use 00 but to make it easier some companies use an electro hydraulic crimping tool. Those are very cool. You place the lugs and wire into position and just press the button.
Hello Matt, that cutter tool that you have can also be used as an insulation cutter to strip off the wire's jacket. Just don't squeeze to hard and cut any of the fine wires. Rotate either the tool or the cable as you squeeze. Keep up the good work.
The CORRECT method is to crimp FIRST, then solder. It is not necessary to drill a hole in the terminal as there is already one there... where the copper wire goes in. Flux cable before putting on the terminal. Now crimp terminal and cable together. You heat the terminal, (where you drilled the hole), to avoid melting the cable covering. When solder will melt touching it to the cable at the terminal opening, you fill terminal with solder. The reasons to do both crimp then solder is, it makes a much stronger hold and it will resist corrosion. The heat shrink tube is a good idea to help keep connection dryer and cleaner, thereby aiding in the corrosion protection. I've always used heat shrink since its invention. That is my method for over 50, yes fifty years. Thanks for the video. I will subscribe.
Thanks for the video and the cool tip on making the copper terminals. Ive owned 17 or 18 boats in my life and always hated paying top dollar. On those in local hardware or marine supply stores i appreciate the demo on all the crimping tools in the past. Ive borrowed whatever was available in the marina but ive been wanting to buy my own to make up cables at home for other applications
I’ve done both and just bought a hydraulic crimper. I do car audio and am a welder so I use cables all the time. It’s just a good practice to do it. Now on a customer car I ask. Time is money and soldering takes time. If the audio system is a few thousand dollars don’t scrimp on the wire. But again it’s up to the person I always crimp on bigger gauge. Nice video🤘
Yes, last time I complained about not using a hydraulic crimper for a proper cold solder (which NASA says is better). Now I am satisfied, thank you bleepinjeep EDIT: I guess you did highlight the negatives of the cheaper hydraulic crimpers, I usually just take it to my local car audio shop which has a huge one that works great
According to Trojan battery (with infrared photos), crimped and soldered results in lowest terminal temp when under load. I build cables for golf carts every day, I hammer crimp then solder, plus good heatshrink.
Yes TL! I was talking to the video like, dude cover the wire with flux, then push the terminal end on and crimp it, finally you heat up the end and the solder will pull in like plumbers do with copper pipe. Then like he mentioned about using a winch making it hot the crimping holds the wire in the terminal. Boom. I've worked on stereo systems since I was about 16 (am now 45) and soldering is the best for a clean connection. Plus, the better the connection there is less resistance for power or audio signal. If a power wire has more resistance it will get hot. It also applies in the home which has caused many house fires because of too many items plugged in an outlet. Anyways, crimp and solder. I mean, is it going to take that much longer?
Great video, I'm a huge fan of the hex crimp, Especially when dealing with vibrations, solder can be a little brittle and a crimp is not. The copper pipe trick was really slick.
I'm crimping and soldering cables that mount on a stationary surface in a home environment, not subject to vibration as in a trailer, machinery or moving transportation. Just crimping in those situations are fine. In my situation, its still the best of both worlds. Its all about the application, performance and safety.
I use both methods at work, and over the years I've gone to using solder on smaller connections (16-24 awg) and crimps on anything larger. It's just my personal preference because, at a basic level I was seeing a lot of small crimp/large solder failures.
never though of drilling a little hole, always figured i'd slap some solder paste in there but, i'm sure a hole is needed for degassing and relief as it melts
Crimped ring terminals are the only authorized process in the aviation industry. Soldering was never meant to be a method to secure electrical components, and wires crimped properly are equal to the tensile strength of the wire loom itself. FAA regulations are what I try to run by. If something messes up on an aircraft, you cant just pull over. 😁 As always, I love the channel and have been watching from near the beginning of it all! Appreciate y'all!
When crimping, you should only do it once. Doing it multiple times has a chance to loosen the previous crimps and it fatigues the metal. Do it once, cut it open and it should look exactly like the others.
Exactly what I was about to comment! The 2nd crimp will work AGAINST the first, thereby loosening & weakening it. ONE well placed solid crimp gets it done.
The manufacturer of the crimped says to do it twice. You think since they make the product that they would research it a little more. I only do mine once even though directions say otherwise.
@@Arkie407 I think that depends on how the crimp is applied. With a hex crimp, rotating the lug 45 degrees could cause it to loosen. If you don't then a second crimp beside the first may not be necessary, but it shouldn't do any harm. The benefit of a second crimp will be greatest with a narrow-width crimping tool.
I have had all of these crimpers, and after all is said and done the hydraulic crimper is the BEST for crimping with many dyes that allows cosmetic differences in crimps
I've always soldered because I've never had the crimper..but recently been lookin at crimpers..one thing I also do is use "liquid electrical tape" on the gap and let it dry a bit.. then heat shrink
I was (laid of due to covid) an electronic technician who worked on frac and cement equipment for a well known oilfield service company. Ive made thousands of crimp and solder connections. I can give you two tips when soldering lugs. First, I used to poke a hole in the cap of a water bottle. This is used to squirt water on lug when soldering is complete. This cools it quickly and reduces the dwell time between the solidus and liquidus state. This is especially helpful when using non eutectic solder like 60/40 and also helps with larger wires that will stay hot for a long time. It eliminates cold joints caused by joint movement when solder is cooling, saves the insulation from melting, and can be used on fire. Second, when heating the lug, remember to not over heat the solder. The solder and flux work best in a given range of heat. If the flux burns and turns black it has already lost its ability to etch oxides from copper, and approaching 1000 degrees the lead will turn into a vapor. I have seen mechanics torch the shit out out lugs and hammer lugs that fail in short order due to poor soldering and crimping.
In my profession (marine electritian) we always crimp due to the enviroment is both warm and vibrating. Our experience is that soldered connections ar prone to crack when exposed to vibrations over time.
I was taught by an aircraft mechanic to crimp with the lever type crimpers. He used to put the jaw ( one side) of the crimper in a vice so that the tool was solid. Like an extra set of hands . Made all the difference in the world I now use the hydro type crimper but still hold the jaw with the vice and have both hands to position the lug and wire.
There is a white anti oxidising compound that the ends of the cable a dipped in to prevent any oxidisation of the cable from moisture contamination. The reason your hydraulic crimp pulled apart is that the dies are for thicker walled forged copper tags. The forged copper tags are well worth considering as they are plated to resist oxidisation, they conduct no less amps than the cable, make stronger crimps and have greater mechanical strength. Heavy cables is not really an area where you should be looking to make any relatively small savings! My top tip is to invest in the very best you can get,the cost difference is less than a can of beer! The tools can be hired or pooled if money is a real factor. Lost count of the Ammon of problems I have come across caused by badly done cable and wire ends.
@@FishFind3000 Copper oxidizes too! Also, battery acid fumes or migration can happen.. Apparently you have never encountered a green rotting battery cable end.
I did calculations (which I don't have handy) and IIRC, you have to go a size or two smaller on the die size when crimping thin wall or homemade terminals (I think I figured two sizes for typical stranded wire). There are charts for circular mil area, diameter of stranded wire (air volume that you'll be compressing), tubing wall thickness (you'll need to convert to area), and area of a hexagon; for those that are mathematically proficient, and want to determine the ideal hex die size... Ideally it will compress some of the air volume. I don't think you can compress it to solid copper... [I don't remember if my calculations came out to two sizes smaller, or if the ideal size was in between available sizes; but I think you should feel significantly higher force before the dies close fully, or you are not fully crimped].
Years ago i read a study by some radio people (ham folks are excessive ) and they actually found that in vibration intensive environments a soldered lug tends to have the strands break where they meet the solder. Just to add from my lifetime of experience
In high vibration applications solder is more likely to cause the wire to break. Copper work hardens with repeated flexing and solder focuses the movement to one point which then becomes the failure point.
Use a multi-hundred dollar tool (if it's a decent induction heater) instead of a $15 torch that does fine? Okay then, whatever floats your boat but you could have it done with the torch by the time you went to get the extension cord to use the induction heater.
@@stinkycheese804 Some people have an induction heater already, I wasn't suggesting people buy it specifically for the task. Per heat unit (BTU, calorie etc), the torch is less efficient.
@@evilutionltd If they have the induction heater, they already knew what when how etc so why would then need a video? Heat unit efficiency makes no difference whatsoever when doing a repair, are you smoking crack? Even if you are off the grid with a limited power source, it would be non-applicable since the torch doesn't use electricity. Even if it does the job good, so does a torch and that takes less time, no wear on more expensive equipment. Win/Win.
What I’ve learned to do is, slide die over stripped wire. When it fits perfectly tight. That’s usually the die to use. I also use a zip tip to keep strands perfectly round to insert into lug
15:00 if that nug is ever getting hot enough to melt the solder, you have much much bigger problems on your hands. if anything, melting the soldering and coming disconnected is more safe then it not and burning things down.
Hate to be picky but _not true._ Melting point for most electrical solder is about 370 deg F - he did state the problem of a high resistance connection specifically at the winch motor - we do not want a 2/0 cable falling out of a winch and welding itself to the bumper until the battery explodes. It's better that other things like circuit breakers do that job. For the same reasons, we don't want molten lead and copper on top of a lead-acid (and hydrogen and oxygen gases) battery melting their way through the case - crimped and soldered is a fantastic way to go for high current critical loads as well as high end audio power connectors. Crimped is the next best for automotive but it must be a proper crimp. For low current devices, soldering beats crimped, even in automotive. For the record, I solder for a living. But more importantly, as a Master electrician, I join wires for a living 🧓⚡👷♂️
@@sinistersparky9657 Do you enjoy joining the poky brown things together? I disagree I would like to see Matt show us 2/0 cable overheat and fall on a bumper and explode the battery, also some tin and lead melting on top of a battery and burning a hole in the battery would be neat to see. Maybe Matt could video it for the channel it would get some views. I got sucked into IBEW years ago and do hope you the best in the profession. Hope you did not have to join the ununion.
@@cencoast_7.340 Give me a fucking break. Anyone who would speak I'll of the ibew has never been a member or was to worthless to stay one the job and off the books. Why the hell would you not want free school, good pay, good benefits, incredible retirement, a yellow ticket in your pocket that lets you walk in and work for any union contractor in the country, a brotherhood with your fellow workers, and numerous other benefits ? PM me if you have any questions about joining the ibew.
@@badgerpa9 This week I have had to replace one 12V 100Ah battery in a 24V 4-ton truck system which had a hole burned in it next to the positive terminal, and then repair (seal) the new battery which got damaged the exact same way the following day. This was caused by the copper wire and brass allow terminal fitting melting while pulling starting current... No solder involved, it actually melted the bolt-on fitting. That's how hot it can get. WAY hotter than for melting solder! The blob of metal that dropped off burned a 1/4" (6.5mm) hole straight through the top of the battery casing. Sadly I didn't get video of it happening, it happened while the truck was out on the open road.
Next up, let's talk about fusion solder fittings. Love the channel Matt. You guys are doing a lot to help the community! Even us dirty bronco owners.
Two things: don't use your bare hands to spread flux. It is acid and eats your skin. Not quickly, but it is not good to do.
The second: if you can get the lug hot enough to melt the solder joint, your truck is on fire and you have much bigger problems.
Just thoughts from a plumber.
@@danielpatton3317 Owned one myself lots of years ago. Body rotted off but wish I had kept it. I'm a Jeep guy but won't belong to club that's not all inclusive. Life is too short.
@@jake-hy2zb yea, I've got body image issues too. Tailgate is rotted, quarters are more Bondo than metal. But I love her. And I will rebuild it better than before. Time is all I need.
@@danielpatton3317 heat at lug due to high current can be localized when the lug to wire connection has a higher resistance than the rest of the electrical system handling the same amount of amps. When this happens you could have high enough temperatures to melt solder without the wire's insulation catching fire much less the entire car.
Having said that, I don't think worrying about the solder melting makes much sense because if the solder melted, something else in the system has gone wrong to enable the wire/lug to get that hot. Poor lug connection was made, lug connection was starting to fail due to vibration, fusing was incorrect, drawing more current than the system was designed to handle, maybe something else.
@@lorne1325 i just know how hot you have to get a joint to solder. If its that hot, something else is terribly wrong and more than likely, youre going to have a fire. Plus i think i was trying to be funny. It was a while ago lol.
What I do at 12:32 to the strand of wires is I use a zip tie backwards (flipped so it won’t lock), pull zip tie closed and get it really tight, leave a small amount of wire in the tip so you can insert the wire into the terminal without any strands off wire coming out. Then once it’s almost all inserted, remove the zip tie. & You’ve finally installed the wire all in place with no strands of wire coming off. Works every time for me! I hope this makes sense!
Great idea.
Put a dental floss wire two times round the copper wire as far as possible to the end. A pair of extra hands would be helpfull pulling the dental floss wire.
I love this guy! He is very knowledgeable and he remembers that his audience is mostly do it yourselfers. He covers every aspect of the project in a friendly manner and lots of visuals.
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I've always done both. I crimp first, then solder to ensure a uniform low resistance connection. For 60+ years it always works.
I am 16 and I will go by your steps doing cables.
Yep, solder through the "inspection hole" after crimping so it really locks it in forever and it won't wick up the cable making it stiff right where the cable enters the crimped part.
You dont need to hot solder if you have the proper crimping force to crimp it becomes monolithic ots called a cold self . Solder just allows corrosion faster @tullgutten
dude that copper tubing trick is genius!
Crimping is generally preferred over solder in automotive applications due to vibration. Thank you for a great video
This!
It is not about what is convenient. The soldered copper strands gets stiff when soldered, and can get fatigued/break as the cable vibrates or moves over time.
@@smjerbetsk exactly. Have seen this a lot on dirt bikes that repaired connections with solder. On the other hand.. The plastics even vibrate through aluminium subframes..
@@nickab9719 So which lasts longer..properly Crimped or soldered; it sounds you'd prefer Crimbed?
@@bikemannc on a vehicle crimped for sure! But let's say a part of the copper wires is solidly crimped for 2cm then it does not really matter if the first cm has solder on it. Although solder has more resistance
On a battery terminal I use both. A crimped connection is generally the best but on a battery terminal a crimped connection will allow the battery acid to wick into the connection causing it to corrode. Solder will prevent this from happening because it fills the gaps between the individual strands. The trick is to just heat the terminal lug or the battery terminal only and push the wire into the melted solder inside the connector. Doing this will minimise the solder making the wire stiff. Solder is drawn to the heat so if you just heat the connector the solder will tend to flow towards the connector reducing how much solder goes to the wire. Don't go crazy with the heat
I've done a few of my own cables and often wondered about a hydraulic hose crimper but after watching this I'm satisfied with my hammer crimper!
I was soldering my battery cables but you have kind of convinced me it would make sense to crimp. Great video.
Crimping is better in coastal and marine applications because dissimilar metals in solder joints lead to galvanic corrosion hidden inside the lug.
Clear heat shrink tube allows you to see the cable condition exiting the lug where mechanical failures often occur.
Informative and thought provoking video. Great job.
Good idea on the clear heat shrink tubing
Definitely informative, "thought provoking" is probably a stretch
That crimp and solder with the hole was an awesome idea!
Great video and job!
Soldering is bad idea so it does not matter.
Thank you, no fake show here, awesome video, teach, learn and decide. After this, a $20 tool with my big hammer is how I will do it moving forward. Thanks again for your knowledge.
That hydraulic crimper makes a really clean crimp both inside and out! Thanks for the video and showing us the differences! 👌
I stumbled upon this video looking for information about doing solar panels and battery setups for camping and this makes me feel far better and way more comfortable about doing it than I did this morning.
Well done ! I have used all of the methods shown. All will work in an automotive application if done correctly. I wish somebody would have offered this information to me when I started out as a mechanic 35 years ago.
He is amazing. Real gentleman, knowledgeable, and humble. Thank you for your ultimate guide! It will save many people from making crucial mistakes.
Hammer crimper does a great job and is cheap. Adhesive in your shrink tubing is essential. Those two together work perfect. If on a budget spend money on the adhesive shrink tubing before paying for a more expensive crimper.
Hammer crimp is a garbage crimp compared to what a quality calibrated crimper can do.
@@nullernullson6749 Given that all connections should be soldered anyway, the physical connection will do fine to mechanically hold the termination in place.
@@patrickwassall116 Soldering heavy cable is inferior to a quality crimp done by quality tools; soldering is not an approved method in certain industries (such as aerospace) for a reason.
@@nullernullson6749 I agree. There is no reason to solder the wire after a proper crimp is made. Copper to Copper is a preferred connection. Also Flux if that didn't all burn off I have seen it oxidize copper . You often see this on cold water lines that were soldered and they can even pit. I personally would never solder a battery connection. Oxidation develops on metal when heat, a metal alloyed with copper and oxygen are all present so I wouldn't want to add flux and heat the wire. When you overheat the copper you can see the bluing on it... oxidation. As a rule of thumb with electrical connection I prefer to stay all with 1 metal, thats just me though. On my old school Crimp connects before all these amazing fancy crimpers that work amazing If i Did these I would add 2 small slits partially around the outside, so basically that small little band I created can now press down and also lock the wire along with a hammering crimp, this way I know that wire is not moving, then I heat shrink over. I do another strange thing too... When i cut the insulation off I take a small piece of heat shrink or wrap where the insulation was cut off and then heat shrink over the whole thing after the connector and crimp, I think it looks nicer as it isnt just flush but 1/8 inch I guess is under the Crimp, stops insulation from any mushrooming or if someone is yanking on wire I dont want the insulation pulled back and a "soft" spot between the insulation and the outer copper
I just dab on some superlube or silicone faucet seat lube and use cheap heatshrink
I’ve watched a bunch of Crimping videos today while researching what tool to buy. AND THIS IS BU FAR THE BEST CRIMPING VIDEO I’ve found. Well done Sir!
i liked the hammer crimped wire. it looked pretty good for $20.00. great video
I helped wire a government research vessel and crimping was done per military specification. 👌
The $20 stamp and BFH system seems to work fine. 💯 Thanks Matt 👍
I love the idea of crimp and then solder. Gives you all the benefits of both. I'm replacing 3/0 cables on a large tractor and that is the way I've decided to go.
Crimp AND solder. Crimp for mechanical strength and retention. Solder to fill all (most) voids and maximize conductivity, thus minimizing resistance. At least, those are my thoughts.
This is a REALLY good video on how to construct and fasten lugs. It helped me a lot!
Solder isn't ideal for high vibration environments and is more susceptible to corrosion. Where the solder ends creates a pivot point that eventually fails. A very well done solder connection will do better than a poor crimp, but a high quality crimp is the best option.
Best tip ever was the make your own lugs part! Thanks!
Thank you, I am about to make new cables for my battery and winch and had planned to solder them.. I am now going with the hydraulic crimp!
Amazing how pertinent battery terminals are on these jeeps! On my 99 WJ, I just replaced, 30 minutes ago, those marine terminals. The material was so soft, no matter how tight I'd crank them down, they'd come loose. For a week, I've been dealing with the jeep cranking, but not turning over... like my fuel pump went out. Checked the schrader valve, all good. Ironically, as soon as I let go of the key, it'd start. I broke down and bought hard zinc terminals for $15 pair. Back in business!
Look at tue Military style terminal. They have been on both My99 and 01 Wj's gor over a year and are Rock solid
Hey again... I forgot to let everyone know that (IMHO) while watching your work I felt like a student who wanted to be in class! Hope the other offerings are as enjoyable!
Great video. I must admit I have always considered the hammer crimper a little sketchy, but after watching this I would say it did a better job than I would have ever thought possible.
Hammer crimp for me ..Thanks for this vid it was an eye opener
Matt, i know it's 2 year old video. But this is really helpful video for me, i have saved this video in my list. So i went out did some shopping, i am now stocked up on supplies for what i need to do. I did some solder only on 2 gage lug for dodge Cummins. Cables were bad, needed replacing. Now I'll try various versions like you did. Thanks for the video. I happened to find this video on Google :)
Great tip on the copper tubing...that is certainly a Macgyber move
Make your own terminals w/ copper pipe... GENIUS! Thanks for all the awesome stuff in this video!
Good show. Battery cables and their end pieces are so important to be done correct. There are so many vehicles out there with poor cable connections to the battery.
I think the hammer crimp and followed up with the solder would be the best value. The two crimper types are just as fine but in my observation, they didn't provide that much value or advantage on the workbench version, maybe they could excel more when working in a more restricted location such as under the hood with the other end of the cables connected to their locations. Although, if you need a nice pair of cable cutters, the $29 crimper would be the best value. It seems that the flux & solder with the crimp simply adds another "crimp" to the crimp or seals up and fills voids within the crimp in the event it isn't "perfect", the solder makes up for that especially with its mechanical grip to the copper lug and cable. Love the heat shrink idea to put icing on the job. Once you do these, your cables will be likely forever maintenance free. Thanks for the show.
Thanks for putting this together and putting it out there. Quite informative, especially the cutting to view the crimp quality. Awesome!
There is no substitute for a quality crimp, not even solder. Solder is great as a conductor but is not a not considered a solid mechanical connection. So the two together is the best of both worlds.
Since most solder joints require an additional mechanical connection, and that is only possible here by crimping, crimping is the proper way to go, even if solder is not added. Plus, solder will create an improved electrical connection that will resist corrosion.
I always thought soldering was the best but now the hammer crimper is my favorite
Sweet!
Why not do both?
The hammer crimper is the easiest and the best in my opinion!
When I looked at the $20 crimp it just visually looks like a better crimp over the others. And as cheap as it is it's easy to pick over the others. I would think that soldering after crimping but I think that may be Overkill. Great vid!
Was a gift and they loved this battery recondition guide
When you strip the wire, only pull the stripped section forward a tiny little bit then twist it as you pull it off. That will make the wire strands stay together nice when you put them in the terminal
If you don't do this do you still deserve to be loved?
@@cencoast_7.340 yes.. only if you are a hot woman
What about a gay dude? I'm asking for a friend.
@@rmcpeek can I DM you???
@@jcanfixall1585 is a DM a gay thing?
This video is pure gold
When using the hydraulic press put the head into a vise for one handed operation. great video, good info
Also helps to put the lug in the jaws and snug connector first, then insert the cable instead of wrestling with three things at once.
And now in Dec 2020 that same tool comes with the return spring he was asking for.
@@dmwi1549 must of just missed the return spring model oh well I'm used to it now
This is probably the best video on this subject. I just set up a small 12 volt power station. I used 2/0 awg Flex-A-Prene welding cable. 1/0 awg x 5/16" tin plated copper cable lugs with glue lined heat shrink. The crimp tool used is the lever type "HX-50B" with a crimp range of 10 awg to 1/0 awg After stripping off 3/4" of sheath from the cable, I placed a small zip tie tightly around the conductor strands and slid the zip tie almost to the end of the strands (after strands are inserted in lug, break off zip tie). It is an extremely tight fit, but the 2/0 awg cable can be inserted into the 1/0 awg lugs. I used the largest die on the tool, the 1/0 awg size. Because it takes a great deal of force to crimp the lug, you only need to crimp once on the back of the lug closest to the lug flare. PRO TIP: Prior to inserting the cable strands, coat the inside of the lug with a small amount of die-electric grease. No solder used (or needed).
Power station componets:
INVERTER: Nature Power 38320 Pure Sine Wave Inverter, 2000-watt. Reg. price is $300, on sale for $148 at Walmart. Current Tractor Supply price: $549.99
BATTERY: CloudEnergy LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery 12V 150Ah with Built-in 100A BMS.
BATTER CHARGER: Timeusb 14.6V 40A Fast Charging LiFePO4 Battery Charger.
Again, excellent job doing this video. Cheers!
Great video. I have made my own out off coper pipe before but i put the wire all the way in then smash it flat and drill so the wire is all the way through and the nut will help keep it tight
Nice to learn from you. the copper pipe idea was WOW. Thank you. Greetings from the UK Corporation.
When I built my cables I crimped them down using my bench vice. Has held up very well for the last 3 years.
Your video is so detail showing the advantage & disadvantage of different types of connections ... Thanks !
I've been super gluing all my cables. 🚨💆♂️
Wow you're a REAL mechanic. Thank You.
v.v useful! thankyou for your methodical and focused approach to your production.
Awesome video! Love your idea of making your own battery terminals - that's something I've never thought about! Considering the fact that I've wrestled with finding battery terminals late at night (for hours!) in a cluttered shop, with a pile of copper tubing within arm's reach makes me feel like a bit of an idiot! Just to kick start the conversation about soldering versus crimping, the reason OE manufacturers crimp (or swage) everything instead of solder is NOT (as most people believe) because swaging or crimping is faster. At the scale of industrial manufacturing, a solder connection would be much, much faster and more economical- it is about durability. At the heart of every good electrical connection is a good mechanical connection, and in a rugged environment, soldier alone will not stand up to the vibration, mechanical stresses or heat cycles that are present in automotive and marine applications (former marine rigger and automotive fab guy here). Anybody who says that crimp connections (more accurately called swage connections) are not as strong or have failed them in the past were either using inexpensive tools to make the unions, using the tooling incorrectly, or purchased poorly manufactured connectors. The only case where soldering make sense is when you are dealing with very small gauge signal wires, typically 22 gauge or smaller... And this is only when an OE connector is not available or will not fit through a pass-through. To make these work takes special considerations and many steps to ensure that the union will remain stable over time. If you don't believe me, compared super cheap pre manufactured battery cables that have flame soldered connectors versus high-end cables produced by a racing spec manufacturer (or a military contractor)...
Hey I know you! Good points. I have watched too many videos on making various connectors.
I would like your advice on crimping tools I see there is crimping tools that's say 10 tons 15 Tons 20 tons which I better. Thanks.
Ewing Fox yea I feel dump searched for hours all over for my copper lugs went through my scrap metal pail setting the 12” sections of copper pipe on the ground that were in the pail lol
@@manatee1999 I just saw this comment now! Hopefully you've already gone out and bought one, the best tools are the hand pump hydraulic units with a variety of inserts for various gauges. Much more attainable are the units to use a hammer, or fit in the jaws of a vice (I like those less, however) - I'd start with a set of the dies for a hammer personally unless you are planning on doing a lot of these. We had a very high quality unit that was manufactured by Wurth, and a companion tool by the same brand for doing button flares for brake and fuel lines. Regardless of what route you go, you should be able to hang from a battery cable you make and swing like Tarzan! If you wouldn't trust it to that test, do it again!
This is a direct quote:
Per Mercury Mercruiser Service Manual Number 31, Section 4, Electrical System;
Battery Cable Recommendations:
"IMPORTANT: The terminals must be soldered to the cable ends to ensure good
electrical contact. Use electrical grade (resin flux) solder only. Do not use acid flux
solder as it may cause corrosion and failure."
My guess is that Mercury Marine knows a thing or two about marine wiring.
Personally I have 30+ years maintaining weapons systems on nuclear submarines,
I crimp and solder.
i never would have thought of making my own lugs out of the copper tubing...awesome vid
Awesome, Matt! Never made a cable before, but that "hydraulic" tool seems like it'd just be annoying to use after a while...seems too slow. Impressed with how well the simple hammer tool compressed the cable in the terminal. Thanks for the info!
Rob Pedrow i have the hydraulic one and its a pain to use the pliers are the way to go much easier to use
The hand pump hyro crimpers are not any better than the cheaper pliers models. About he lowest tier one I would suggest has what looks like a cordless drill hooked to it but is in the couple of hundred price range. Not something the normal DIY guy wants to spend at all. Hell even doing it for a living it still stings the wallet.
I soldered my battery cables when I built my CJ7... I use the solder plugs and they worked great for me. Seeing the crimpers though, I like the ease of use, the portability and the results. Thanks! thumbs up and shared.
Nice video, very helpful. Personally I prefer the hammer crimp and it has the advantage of being the cheapest option, which is always nice. Saw another video using copper tubing to make your own crimps and is definitely the way to go in my opinion as screw ups happen and a few pennies wasted is a lot better than having to throw away factory made ones.
Great comparison. Making your own terminals is something I never thought to try. I have a crimper that is small and has a nut so that you can use an impact gun to crimp. It's very useful when doing repairs on the vehicle where you may not have room
I was told by John Deere ag tech school that crimping is always the better connection because soldering will crack and fail under vibrations but being there are humans involved they all will fail at one point or another lol
crimping is better because it makes a molecular bond. vibration doesn't necessarily crack solder if done correctly
Not to mention failing from the HEAT created from a deteriorated connection. If you're insistent on using solder, CRIMP it first and then flux and sweat in the solder. It will help prevent INTERNAL corrosion.
@@mylesl2890 every terminal in your car is crimped enough said
@@anthonymarino4260 Untrue Anthony. Nearly every production vehicle today has a soldered (or metal impregnated) battery terminal design to prevent acid induced corrosion. Look at any older vehicle with a simple crimp and you'll see massive corrosion which is a major cause of 'battery failure' as perceived by vehicle owners. Almost no one does it that way anymore for good reason.
@@anthonymarino4260 that is not a standard to go by. Cars are built as cheap as possible. If thats the way you think in your head, i want to stay far away from you.
I sell a ton of lugs for medium and high voltage industrial application. They ALWAYS crimp. Sell a ton of dies for various 1/0 to 4/0 wires as a result. The installer uses an electric crimper, usually a milwaukee crimper. The part of making our own lugs was genius! Thanks!
adding a dielectric grease to the straight crimp helps long term in my past
dielectric means non-conductive.
woodhonky correct it’s meant to mitigate corrosion not it increase conductivity
@@woodhonky3890 Cmon man get with it!
Great info. The proof at the end was excellent. I was debating which crimper to use. Seems like I can’t go wrong with these different methods. Thanks for posting.
I have used the first one with a hammer for a long time. It has worked great for me and I live around a very salty environment. South florida is humid and salty both.
Great idea using the copper pipe. Wouldn't have thought to do that. Thanks
Good video! I use a crimper myself as an electrician. If the dies are thinner you can move the crimper and crimp it in two different spots. I have access to hydraulic and adjustable crimpers like the one you used after the hammer crimp which I though was just fine for battery leads. Good video!
Great video. Thanks for the education. Surprising the best one looks to be the hammered one.
Really great video! Makes me want to start making my own battery terminals
You can make me some if you are so gun ho.. Nice to see you man you have awesome videos too.
As an aircraft electrician i never soldered the power wires from aircraft generators. Most aircraft use 00 but to make it easier some companies use an electro hydraulic crimping tool. Those are very cool. You place the lugs and wire into position and just press the button.
Hello Matt, that cutter tool that you have can also be used as an insulation cutter to strip off the wire's jacket. Just don't squeeze to hard and cut any of the fine wires. Rotate either the tool or the cable as you squeeze. Keep up the good work.
Or he could use that pipe cutter with more accuracy !!
...but I did it my way...
The CORRECT method is to crimp FIRST, then solder. It is not necessary to drill a hole in the terminal as there is already one there... where the copper wire goes in. Flux cable before putting on the terminal. Now crimp terminal and cable together. You heat the terminal, (where you drilled the hole), to avoid melting the cable covering. When solder will melt touching it to the cable at the terminal opening, you fill terminal with solder. The reasons to do both crimp then solder is, it makes a much stronger hold and it will resist corrosion. The heat shrink tube is a good idea to help keep connection dryer and cleaner, thereby aiding in the corrosion protection. I've always used heat shrink since its invention. That is my method for over 50, yes fifty years. Thanks for the video. I will subscribe.
Once you crimp actually takes less solder. Been crimping then soldering for 30 years. Works for me.
Thanks for the video and the cool tip on making the copper terminals. Ive owned 17 or 18 boats in my life and always hated paying top dollar. On those in local hardware or marine supply stores i appreciate the demo on all the crimping tools in the past. Ive borrowed whatever was available in the marina but ive been wanting to buy my own to make up cables at home for other applications
that is the reason who have owned 18 boats, because you tend to skimp in quality.
@@ursodermatt8809 he never said he didn't pay top dollar he said he hated paying top dollar...
@@jcanfixall1585
okay ................
The best video on the subject I have seen. Thanks for taking the time.
Crimp and solder, Solder is better fighting corosion . I like how you drilled little hole and added there. 2 thumbs up
Just buy tinned wire (that is tinned the entire length from factory) if you want tinned wire and use a quality crimp tool.
2nd for crimp and solder, crimp provides mechanical strength, and the solder helps keep corrosion out. Adhesive lined heat shrink is a must as well.
I’ve done both and just bought a hydraulic crimper. I do car audio and am a welder so I use cables all the time. It’s just a good practice to do it. Now on a customer car I ask. Time is money and soldering takes time. If the audio system is a few thousand dollars don’t scrimp on the wire. But again it’s up to the person I always crimp on bigger gauge. Nice video🤘
Yes, last time I complained about not using a hydraulic crimper for a proper cold solder (which NASA says is better).
Now I am satisfied, thank you bleepinjeep
EDIT:
I guess you did highlight the negatives of the cheaper hydraulic crimpers, I usually just take it to my local car audio shop which has a huge one that works great
Hammer crimp and solder, looks like the way to go, great video, thank you for sharing!
According to Trojan battery (with infrared photos), crimped and soldered results in lowest terminal temp when under load. I build cables for golf carts every day, I hammer crimp then solder, plus good heatshrink.
Yes TL! I was talking to the video like, dude cover the wire with flux, then push the terminal end on and crimp it, finally you heat up the end and the solder will pull in like plumbers do with copper pipe. Then like he mentioned about using a winch making it hot the crimping holds the wire in the terminal. Boom. I've worked on stereo systems since I was about 16 (am now 45) and soldering is the best for a clean connection. Plus, the better the connection there is less resistance for power or audio signal. If a power wire has more resistance it will get hot. It also applies in the home which has caused many house fires because of too many items plugged in an outlet. Anyways, crimp and solder. I mean, is it going to take that much longer?
Great video, I'm a huge fan of the hex crimp, Especially when dealing with vibrations, solder can be a little brittle and a crimp is not. The copper pipe trick was really slick.
Crimping is industry standard.
Yes but is it better? 😉 Lol *jokes*
I say do both. Crimp and then solder. Shrink wrap your work after. End product: Best of all worlds with safety in mind.
@@mr.makeit4037 No, soldering makes the cable solid, giving it a hard point to break off, right where the solder finishes. Crimping alone is better.
I'm crimping and soldering cables that mount on a stationary surface in a home environment, not subject to vibration as in a trailer, machinery or moving transportation. Just crimping in those situations are fine. In my situation, its still the best of both worlds. Its all about the application, performance and safety.
soldering is standard in industry.
I've always crimped & soldered, now im thinking crimp by itself is not bad at all. Great in depth video, I enjoyed it alot
I use both methods at work, and over the years I've gone to using solder on smaller connections (16-24 awg) and crimps on anything larger. It's just my personal preference because, at a basic level I was seeing a lot of small crimp/large solder failures.
I cannot believe a man is actually using what appears to be a EMERSON QCQ-7 knife for actual work. Awesome video
never though of drilling a little hole, always figured i'd slap some solder paste in there but, i'm sure a hole is needed for degassing and relief as it melts
Crimped ring terminals are the only authorized process in the aviation industry. Soldering was never meant to be a method to secure electrical components, and wires crimped properly are equal to the tensile strength of the wire loom itself. FAA regulations are what I try to run by. If something messes up on an aircraft, you cant just pull over. 😁
As always, I love the channel and have been watching from near the beginning of it all! Appreciate y'all!
When crimping, you should only do it once. Doing it multiple times has a chance to loosen the previous crimps and it fatigues the metal.
Do it once, cut it open and it should look exactly like the others.
Nice to known.
Exactly what I was about to comment! The 2nd crimp will work AGAINST the first, thereby loosening & weakening it. ONE well placed solid crimp gets it done.
@@Arkie407 I didn't know that for sure, but that's what I thought when I saw it being done. Thanks.
The manufacturer of the crimped says to do it twice. You think since they make the product that they would research it a little more. I only do mine once even though directions say otherwise.
@@Arkie407 I think that depends on how the crimp is applied. With a hex crimp, rotating the lug 45 degrees could cause it to loosen. If you don't then a second crimp beside the first may not be necessary, but it shouldn't do any harm. The benefit of a second crimp will be greatest with a narrow-width crimping tool.
I have had all of these crimpers, and after all is said and done the hydraulic crimper is the BEST for crimping with many dyes that allows cosmetic differences in crimps
I've always soldered because I've never had the crimper..but recently been lookin at crimpers..one thing I also do is use "liquid electrical tape" on the gap and let it dry a bit.. then heat shrink
Great vid man. Answered some questions I've been asking myself
"try not to hit your thumb" Was this a reference to when you did the bread trick and smacked your thumb?! LoL
I was (laid of due to covid) an electronic technician who worked on frac and cement equipment for a well known oilfield service company. Ive made thousands of crimp and solder connections. I can give you two tips when soldering lugs. First, I used to poke a hole in the cap of a water bottle. This is used to squirt water on lug when soldering is complete. This cools it quickly and reduces the dwell time between the solidus and liquidus state. This is especially helpful when using non eutectic solder like 60/40 and also helps with larger wires that will stay hot for a long time. It eliminates cold joints caused by joint movement when solder is cooling, saves the insulation from melting, and can be used on fire. Second, when heating the lug, remember to not over heat the solder. The solder and flux work best in a given range of heat. If the flux burns and turns black it has already lost its ability to etch oxides from copper, and approaching 1000 degrees the lead will turn into a vapor. I have seen mechanics torch the shit out out lugs and hammer lugs that fail in short order due to poor soldering and crimping.
In my profession (marine electritian) we always crimp due to the enviroment is both warm and vibrating. Our experience is that soldered connections ar prone to crack when exposed to vibrations over time.
Would doing the crimp & solder method work too? Would it be better in those conditions?
I was taught by an aircraft mechanic to crimp with the lever type crimpers. He used to put the jaw ( one side) of the crimper in a vice so that the tool was solid. Like an extra set of hands . Made all the difference in the world I now use the hydro type crimper but still hold the jaw with the vice and have both hands to position the lug and wire.
There is a white anti oxidising compound that the ends of the cable a dipped in to prevent any oxidisation of the cable from moisture contamination. The reason your hydraulic crimp pulled apart is that the dies are for thicker walled forged copper tags. The forged copper tags are well worth considering as they are plated to resist oxidisation, they conduct no less amps than the cable, make stronger crimps and have greater mechanical strength. Heavy cables is not really an area where you should be looking to make any relatively small savings! My top tip is to invest in the very best you can get,the cost difference is less than a can of beer! The tools can be hired or pooled if money is a real factor. Lost count of the Ammon of problems I have come across caused by badly done cable and wire ends.
Oxidation is only an issue with aluminum wires.
@@FishFind3000 Copper oxidizes too!
Also, battery acid fumes or migration can happen..
Apparently you have never encountered a green rotting battery cable end.
I did calculations (which I don't have handy) and IIRC, you have to go a size or two smaller on the die size when crimping thin wall or homemade terminals (I think I figured two sizes for typical stranded wire).
There are charts for circular mil area, diameter of stranded wire (air volume that you'll be compressing), tubing wall thickness (you'll need to convert to area), and area of a hexagon; for those that are mathematically proficient, and want to determine the ideal hex die size...
Ideally it will compress some of the air volume. I don't think you can compress it to solid copper...
[I don't remember if my calculations came out to two sizes smaller, or if the ideal size was in between available sizes; but I think you should feel significantly higher force before the dies close fully, or you are not fully crimped].
This save me a lot on emergency status
Hammer crimp is what I use. Easiest, cheapest, most trustworthy.
Also a garbage way to crimp a cable. A proper hexagon crimp is the most trust worthy.
Nah....a nice hexagonal hydraulic crimp will press the copper solid at the joint... she's absolutely trustworthy and ain't going nowhere Jimmy....👈
Years ago i read a study by some radio people (ham folks are excessive ) and they actually found that in vibration intensive environments a soldered lug tends to have the strands break where they meet the solder. Just to add from my lifetime of experience
In high vibration applications solder is more likely to cause the wire to break. Copper work hardens with repeated flexing and solder focuses the movement to one point which then becomes the failure point.
halnywiatr -copper does not work harden.
ua-cam.com/video/fzHMnaRinJ8/v-deo.html
Jepp got stuck in Namibia, cracked solder, battery,dead remove cable and used a blunt centerpunch to get back on the sand dunens.
We used to crimp and solder. When practical. Nice video!
Using an induction heater to heat the lug for soldering would be interesting.
Use a multi-hundred dollar tool (if it's a decent induction heater) instead of a $15 torch that does fine? Okay then, whatever floats your boat but you could have it done with the torch by the time you went to get the extension cord to use the induction heater.
@@stinkycheese804 Some people have an induction heater already, I wasn't suggesting people buy it specifically for the task.
Per heat unit (BTU, calorie etc), the torch is less efficient.
@@evilutionltd If they have the induction heater, they already knew what when how etc so why would then need a video? Heat unit efficiency makes no difference whatsoever when doing a repair, are you smoking crack? Even if you are off the grid with a limited power source, it would be non-applicable since the torch doesn't use electricity. Even if it does the job good, so does a torch and that takes less time, no wear on more expensive equipment. Win/Win.
do you understand why an induction works? inducing a current in metal that conducts well is probably not going to heat the copper very much.
What I’ve learned to do is, slide die over stripped wire. When it fits perfectly tight. That’s usually the die to use. I also use a zip tip to keep strands perfectly round to insert into lug
You should solder one end of a cable, and crimp the other and see which one fails first when you try and pull it apart
science.
Wow these are the exact tools i see on amazon few years later. Thanks, i feel secure about what imma get!
15:00 if that nug is ever getting hot enough to melt the solder, you have much much bigger problems on your hands. if anything, melting the soldering and coming disconnected is more safe then it not and burning things down.
Hate to be picky but _not true._
Melting point for most electrical solder is about 370 deg F - he did state the problem of a high resistance connection specifically at the winch motor - we do not want a 2/0 cable falling out of a winch and welding itself to the bumper until the battery explodes. It's better that other things like circuit breakers do that job.
For the same reasons, we don't want molten lead and copper on top of a lead-acid (and hydrogen and oxygen gases) battery melting their way through the case - crimped and soldered is a fantastic way to go for high current critical loads as well as high end audio power connectors. Crimped is the next best for automotive but it must be a proper crimp. For low current devices, soldering beats crimped, even in automotive. For the record, I solder for a living. But more importantly, as a Master electrician, I join wires for a living 🧓⚡👷♂️
@@sinistersparky9657 Do you enjoy joining the poky brown things together? I disagree I would like to see Matt show us 2/0 cable overheat and fall on a bumper and explode the battery, also some tin and lead melting on top of a battery and burning a hole in the battery would be neat to see. Maybe Matt could video it for the channel it would get some views. I got sucked into IBEW years ago and do hope you the best in the profession. Hope you did not have to join the ununion.
@@badgerpa9 Hey loved you comment lol. I was actually looking into the IBEW so I'm curious are you not suggesting it?
@@cencoast_7.340 Give me a fucking
break. Anyone who would speak I'll of the ibew has never been a member or was to worthless to stay one the job and off the books. Why the hell would you not want free school, good pay, good benefits, incredible retirement, a yellow ticket in your pocket that lets you walk in and work for any union contractor in the country, a brotherhood with your fellow workers, and numerous other benefits ?
PM me if you have any questions about joining the ibew.
@@badgerpa9 This week I have had to replace one 12V 100Ah battery in a 24V 4-ton truck system which had a hole burned in it next to the positive terminal, and then repair (seal) the new battery which got damaged the exact same way the following day.
This was caused by the copper wire and brass allow terminal fitting melting while pulling starting current... No solder involved, it actually melted the bolt-on fitting. That's how hot it can get. WAY hotter than for melting solder!
The blob of metal that dropped off burned a 1/4" (6.5mm) hole straight through the top of the battery casing.
Sadly I didn't get video of it happening, it happened while the truck was out on the open road.
Very helpful to this discussion. Thanks for making the content.