Thank you! :) So many guys offer "instructions" with terrible angles and zero info! This helped me before I even started the project. Made sure I had all the tools etc ..
Well explained, step by step approach which included all the necessary detail re marking shaft and flanges, reusing washers and even torque specs. Well done. much appreciated.
@@6thGearGarage Thanks again. I had it in a garage and they are good with most things, but couldnt pinpoint this. I brought my tacoma home put it on a jack and wabbled the center bering had a lot of play, then came in and goggled it and this video hit it on the nail!
Great how-to video. Thanks a lot. I replaced the bearing yesterday on my '99 xtra-cab 4x4. I bought the truck brand new in Nov '98 (0 miles) and this was the first center support bearing replacement in 20 years (160K miles). I used a 'Timpken' bearing, which cost about $75, or about half of what Toyota wanted. If it lasts half as long as the original one did, I'll be happy. Anyway, great video. I ran into a small problem of re-installing the flange bolts and lock washers...as in which side does the lock washer go on? I was able to review your video again and see how they go. Note: The original bearing on mine didn't have any hooks hanging it onto the frame. The new bearing has hooks, but not needed. Point is there are some slight differences on these vehicles.
Thanks so much for making this video mate! You saved me a ton of money and got my old truck back on the road in only a couple of hours. I followed your instructions to the letter and it works like new. Thanks again - really appreciate it.
On my "86 Toyota pickup, the thin washer was missing (as the previous owner(s) has replaced this part at one time or another). The part number that fit from Toyota is 90201-26005. I ended up ordering two and used both, but using one should be fine.
Thanks you explained it perfectly, I'm a retired mechanic and only replace a carrier bearing once and that was on a 1979 F-150 and it pressed on which was a pain because it went completely out 10 miles from home so that made things interesting. I have a slight vibration when accelerating in my tacoma, I crawled under and checked u joints and carrier for obvious wear but didn't feel any play. But my seat of the pants tell me it's coming from that area and I'm considering new u joints and carrier bearing in one shot to be done with it and if that doesn't fix i know it isn't coming from the driveshaft. It has 138k on it and i have towed so ?
Really good video! I tried to do the same job to day on my truck, however after i released the 24 mm nut and removed the washer it was imposible to get the,,ehh..(dont know what the part is called) metal flange(?) off to access the center bearing. It had sized on the splines - zero movment. Tried wd40, rubber mallet +++ Nothing worked. Like it was welded on. Taking it to a garage sometimes soon.
I'm doing the same job on a dual cab ln106 and only found 1 thick washer on the front of the bearing. Not sure if the job was done before. Any ideas before i just put everything back with only the one washer?
I don't have any experience with that model, but I'd check a service manual, or even stop at the dealership and see if they can look up if there should be a washer, then buy it while you're there. I wouldn't know the part # to buy one online.
Good Video Cheers, I purchased a heavy duty one from Australia for $60.. On inspection of my current bearing hanger only the rubber boot is left the bearing has completely crapped its self. eeek
Remove the rear shaft then remove the flange with the entire assembly still on the truck. The bearing carrier will come off backwards without removing the front shaft.
Hello, Thanks you for the DIY videos! Your videos are among the best. I have 1987 Toyota Pickup 4x4 Long wheel base with 5sp MT and have some vibration at highway speed. Examining the driveline can not see 'Carrier Bearing' , The rear drive shaft is connected directly to the transmission. The front shaft is going front the transfer case to the differential. Is that correct? or my truck was previous modify?
I've never changed bearing before. I have a manual 06 4 cyl Frontier. Apparently I need a bearing puller and a bearing press to change mine. I'm sure I can find a way to cut/remove it without a puller. But I'm worried about installing the new bearing. Some come with only the bearing and some come with the hanging bracket/hardware. If I order one with the bracket included, would I still need a press to install the new bearing? Thanks great video!
I'm unsure what the bearing on an 06 Frontier looks like. If it's exactly like this one, one unit with the bracket included, then I don't see why you would need a puller/press.
I have question do all hilux pickup have that because I don't have Extended cap my is a short Cap and it 1988 4x4 and dosent have that centre shaft support......?
@@6thGearGarage Thanks I see your other video in Changing the transfer case seal Cause mine's was bad now no more leaks I all by my self thk to your video every Educational. But I noticed mine didn't have that support I think I was going crazy. 😅
I was wondering how your Beck Carrier Bearing is holding up? I have a 2003 Toyota Tundra that needs replacing. I have researched that possibly the OEM may be made by DANA Spicer.
I have a 2wd and my center support bearing won’t pull out... can i just pull my front driveshaft out of the engine mechanisms in the front so i can get better access?
No necessarily so George, I'm all for Toyota replacement parts but my budget isn't, being a retired mechanic we gave the customers two prices, parts from the dealer, parts from Oreilly. We pretty much knew which part from Oreilly's was decent or not and were surprised sometimes. $145 for an alternator from Oreillys vs $375 + at the dealer, the important thing was to give the customer a choice and tell them the difference and 97% of the time Oreillys wins out.
@@6thGearGarage Spicer is the OEM and often about 1/3 the price. I found that my Anchor brand bearing has a bit of slop around the donut which can cause vibration and harmonics. I'm replacing mine with a Spicer.
As a retired mechanic the customers wallet dictated where the part comes from , as mechanic's we all would love to use dealer parts and did at the dealer but working at an independent shop and most people not budgeting for auto repair that's just not realistic.
I figured it out after 5 minutes of inspection lol. These local shops don’t carry these lock nuts so I’ll have to order through the dealership. Thanks for the video it was very informative!
Yeah, I haven't had any issues with this part. OEM is always the highest quality, but too many projects drain my wallet lol. I'd be OK with replacing this a couple of times if it wears out early.
I unbolted the back of the middle and lowered the rear driveshaft out of the way. Then unbolt the front off the transfer case and the front driveshaft can be removed, along with the bearing.
nice work mate is a really great vedeo and great explain!! i don"t understend why 11 STUPID IDIOTS said not!! is a great vedeo mate keeping going great vedeos i need make the same on my LN40 hilux 2.4diesel 4X4 cheers from norway thanks
Thank you! :) So many guys offer "instructions" with terrible angles and zero info! This helped me before I even started the project. Made sure I had all the tools etc ..
Glad to see this video is still helping people!
Well explained, step by step approach which included all the necessary detail re marking shaft and flanges, reusing washers and even torque specs. Well done. much appreciated.
Just replaced mine today using your video as a guide, this really saved me a lot of time and money, thank you
Good vid. Short and sweet. Knowing where there easy-to-lose parts are, like the washer, is good knowledge. Thanks.
3 year old video yet still extremely helpful
Glad it helped
Sure glad you made this video. Even though I will have a garage change it, it led me to my problem. Thanks, great video!
Glad it helped
@@6thGearGarage Thanks again. I had it in a garage and they are good with most things, but couldnt pinpoint this. I brought my tacoma home put it on a jack and wabbled the center bering had a lot of play, then came in and goggled it and this video hit it on the nail!
Great how-to video. Thanks a lot. I replaced the bearing yesterday on my '99 xtra-cab 4x4. I bought the truck brand new in Nov '98 (0 miles) and this was the first center support bearing replacement in 20 years (160K miles). I used a 'Timpken' bearing, which cost about $75, or about half of what Toyota wanted. If it lasts half as long as the original one did, I'll be happy. Anyway, great video. I ran into a small problem of re-installing the flange bolts and lock washers...as in which side does the lock washer go on? I was able to review your video again and see how they go. Note: The original bearing on mine didn't have any hooks hanging it onto the frame. The new bearing has hooks, but not needed. Point is there are some slight differences on these vehicles.
Dave Spence was it a Timpkin or Timkin? Timkin is good quality but Timpkin sounds like a knockoff of Timkin.
Thanks so much for making this video mate! You saved me a ton of money and got my old truck back on the road in only a couple of hours. I followed your instructions to the letter and it works like new. Thanks again - really appreciate it.
Thank for your time to make the video its goin to help me to remplace mine in my toyota 87 custom cab
That’s a rare truck!
On my "86 Toyota pickup, the thin washer was missing (as the previous owner(s) has replaced this part at one time or another). The part number that fit from Toyota is 90201-26005. I ended up ordering two and used both, but using one should be fine.
I'm doing mine as I'm watching your video thanks man 😊
Glad to hear! for a $20 part, mine has not had one issue since.
Exactly the video I was looking for, thanks mate
Thanks you explained it perfectly, I'm a retired mechanic and only replace a carrier bearing once and that was on a 1979 F-150 and it pressed on which was a pain because it went completely out 10 miles from home so that made things interesting. I have a slight vibration when accelerating in my tacoma, I crawled under and checked u joints and carrier for obvious wear but didn't feel any play. But my seat of the pants tell me it's coming from that area and I'm considering new u joints and carrier bearing in one shot to be done with it and if that doesn't fix i know it isn't coming from the driveshaft. It has 138k on it and i have towed so ?
Yes, this is a great time to replace the U joints as well
Awesome job. Awesome video. Thanks for the help
Much appreciated tips.... little washer... marking split points... thanks..👍🤠
Really good video! I tried to do the same job to day on my truck, however after i released the 24 mm nut and removed the washer it was imposible to get the,,ehh..(dont know what the part is called) metal flange(?) off to access the center bearing. It had sized on the splines - zero movment. Tried wd40, rubber mallet +++ Nothing worked. Like it was welded on. Taking it to a garage sometimes soon.
Wow that's some serious corrosion! Was the shop able to remove it with a press?
Excellent video and well detailed job!!
Thank you very much!
Great video! Very informative and detailed. Keep up the great work.
Very helpful. Thanks for posting this vid👍
No more Mike Doomberg ads!!!!!!!
I agree, but can't decide which one YT shows.
@@6thGearGarage Your video was excellent however. Thank you for the info on the carrier bearing replacement.
Excellent video. Nice garage.
I'm doing the same job on a dual cab ln106 and only found 1 thick washer on the front of the bearing. Not sure if the job was done before. Any ideas before i just put everything back with only the one washer?
I don't have any experience with that model, but I'd check a service manual, or even stop at the dealership and see if they can look up if there should be a washer, then buy it while you're there. I wouldn't know the part # to buy one online.
My 2002 Tacoma had two thin shim washers from the factory. It really only needs one.
Good Video Cheers, I purchased a heavy duty one from Australia for $60.. On inspection of my current bearing hanger only the rubber boot is left the bearing has completely crapped its self. eeek
Remove the rear shaft then remove the flange with the entire assembly still on the truck. The bearing carrier will come off backwards without removing the front shaft.
Oliver Banford that's a good way to do it
@@6thGearGarage I've had my 91 ln105 2.4 diesel for 16 years now, done this more than once 😉. Great vid fella
@@oliverbanford Thanks!!
Hello, Thanks you for the DIY videos! Your videos are among the best.
I have 1987 Toyota Pickup 4x4 Long wheel base with 5sp MT and have some vibration at highway speed.
Examining the driveline can not see 'Carrier Bearing' , The rear drive shaft is connected directly to the transmission.
The front shaft is going front the transfer case to the differential. Is that correct? or my truck was previous modify?
The carrier bearing was only used on the long wheelbase models I believe; truck with Xtra Cab or 7' long bed.
I've never changed bearing before. I have a manual 06 4 cyl Frontier. Apparently I need a bearing puller and a bearing press to change mine. I'm sure I can find a way to cut/remove it without a puller. But I'm worried about installing the new bearing. Some come with only the bearing and some come with the hanging bracket/hardware. If I order one with the bracket included, would I still need a press to install the new bearing? Thanks great video!
I'm unsure what the bearing on an 06 Frontier looks like. If it's exactly like this one, one unit with the bracket included, then I don't see why you would need a puller/press.
Very helpful. Thanks!
You can put the center bearing on the wrong way.
Ordered a preassembled driveshaft from ebay for my 1994 lux and they managed to put it on backwards.
I have question do all hilux pickup have that because I don't have Extended cap my is a short Cap and it 1988 4x4 and dosent have that centre shaft support......?
You’re right, only the long wheelbase trucks have them to my knowledge.
@@6thGearGarage Thanks I see your other video in Changing the transfer case seal Cause mine's was bad now no more leaks I all by my self thk to your video every Educational. But I noticed mine didn't have that support I think I was going crazy. 😅
I was wondering how your Beck Carrier Bearing is holding up? I have a 2003 Toyota Tundra that needs replacing. I have researched that possibly the OEM may be made by DANA Spicer.
So far it has held up great with no issues.
Thank you, good job
I have a 2wd and my center support bearing won’t pull out... can i just pull my front driveshaft out of the engine mechanisms in the front so i can get better access?
Yeah, you can drop it that way. Just mark the position before removing.
very informative ,Thanks !
Helped me out thanks
How many miles on the original center bearing?
I'm unsure, as the truck had 170k when I purchased it. I do not know if it was the original bearing.
Thanks, I'm 4wheelin again....
Buy the cheap one and you'll be doing the job again next year... been there.
No necessarily so George, I'm all for Toyota replacement parts but my budget isn't, being a retired mechanic we gave the customers two prices, parts from the dealer, parts from Oreilly. We pretty much knew which part from Oreilly's was decent or not and were surprised sometimes. $145 for an alternator from Oreillys vs $375 + at the dealer, the important thing was to give the customer a choice and tell them the difference and 97% of the time Oreillys wins out.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
good video !
Honest I rather use the oem one
OEM is always the best.
@@6thGearGarage Spicer is the OEM and often about 1/3 the price. I found that my Anchor brand bearing has a bit of slop around the donut which can cause vibration and harmonics. I'm replacing mine with a Spicer.
As a retired mechanic the customers wallet dictated where the part comes from , as mechanic's we all would love to use dealer parts and did at the dealer but working at an independent shop and most people not budgeting for auto repair that's just not realistic.
What did you mean by punch the hole in the nut “out”?
first6string are you referring to the part where I had to unstake the nut? Maybe I said hole by accident.
I figured it out after 5 minutes of inspection lol. These local shops don’t carry these lock nuts so I’ll have to order through the dealership. Thanks for the video it was very informative!
@@first6stringdo you know the part # for that nut?
I have a prerunner 4x4 2001 v6 think itll work on that?
Im not even sure if an 01 prerunner uses a center support bearing. If so, it's probably a similar procedure.
Prerunner 4x4? Lol
Evan Locke Ha I didn't even notice that the first time I read it.
Its rwd until you put the 4x4 in gear i guess?.
How much would this cost to have done with labor?
I'm not sure, but maybe $200-300? Probably more at a dealership.
@@6thGearGarage Thanks! I'm actually having it done today to my 2011 Tacoma.
Could you give me part number for this? OEM. Thanks. James
James Swetland sorry I don’t know the OEM part #. Mine was aftermarket.
Are you still ahead if you count your time as money? The OEM is probably the most reliable option.
Yeah, I haven't had any issues with this part. OEM is always the highest quality, but too many projects drain my wallet lol. I'd be OK with replacing this a couple of times if it wears out early.
Thanks
👍👍😊
Just got a quote for 640 for this job for entertainment purposes lol
That's amazing... I chose the wrong career!
6th Gear Garage i did it yesterday for 85$ in the driveway!! Lol. Turns out it was only the rear u joint!
Which part of the shart comes out first(front, middle and end) can you explain. Thanks
I unbolted the back of the middle and lowered the rear driveshaft out of the way. Then unbolt the front off the transfer case and the front driveshaft can be removed, along with the bearing.
I have the same truck and I don't have one of these
I think support bearing will only be found on the long wheelbase trucks. Is yours an Xtra Cab or Long Bed model?
@@6thGearGarage mine is extra cab. My drive shaft is different than yours
I had a 83 and a 87 Toyota 4WD pickups, an they would go anywhere.
nice work mate is a really great vedeo and great explain!! i don"t understend why 11 STUPID IDIOTS said not!! is a great vedeo mate keeping going great vedeos i need make the same on my LN40 hilux 2.4diesel 4X4 cheers from norway thanks
good
Looks like your drive shaft could do with some grease
Probably, thanks!
Thanks