Thanks guy! helped me in reassembly. Just replaced mine on the side of the road, not too bad. The bearing nut is 133lbs, back off 1 full turn, then 60lbs, so says the FSM, but gave it about 68 lbs after setting the bearing. And then staked the nut.
Dude your channel has been amazing for fixing things on my Tundra! Every time I search what's going on with my truck I seem to find one of your videos.
I figured common folks like us would find the things that I do useful. My experiences has been that mechanics like to take advantage of people with little knowledge of their vehicles. That is why I started this show. If you find it helpful please like and subscribe and share with your friends.
The Other Guy 1st gens are the unicorn of the truck world in canada. Knowledge and parts are hard to come by. I think we are victims of the success our trucks carried through to the next generations. Mine’s a 2000, white, 175,000km. It just started vibrating on throttle recently. I’m hoping that rubber is the problem. Now that I have your video I can guesstimate time and cost and negotiate with the wife if I go DIY or not. I figure a full Saturday dedicated would be about right, with room for unexpected... cheers to all the Gen 1 owners out there!
@@thegolfdude He only submits doing the furthest ends of driveshaft yolks. Using the nuts as spacers is a bit cheesy, but call me crazy, I even replaced the 24mm Stake Nut... Also, the first tightening should plant CSB, be loosened, THEN tightened to spec. 133 ft/lbs, loosen, then torque to 60 ft/lbs, stake the nut. You're welcome.
I did not do that when I done this job 5 days ago and there is slight vibration..likely due to not marking the shafts and yokes position before taking them apart...oh well..any answers on fix?
Very helpful...one important thing I noticed was when you reattached the splined yoke to the front driveshaft section and then bolted the double cardan joint flange to it, the u-joint loops on the cardan joint flange need to line up with the front u-joint loops on the front driveshaft or it creates an out of phase condition and possible vibration. Just reattach the splined yoke in the proper alignment. You can see this at 24:14 in your video. Thanx for the video.
Mine a 2005 2-wheel drive SR5. Only 124,000 miles, but squeak squeak squeak. I’ve been afraid to take it to Toyota in fear of labor rate sticker shock. Thanks for this, I think I can do this.
Excellent instructions Other Guy . About to do this on a 90 xtracab Toyota. Looks similar and I may be able to drop the rear only as suggested at the end of vid.
Good job on your tundra, less vibration is always a good thing. I bought a cheaper bearing for my 2wd Tacoma and it lasted maybe a year and half. Now I got a better timken brand, hopefully it will be better.
KOYO was the oem manufacturer for my 06 wheel bearings. They didn’t last very long at all. Replaced them with Timken and they ended up being re-boxed KOYO.
My brother works for timken and they shipped all their manufacturing to countries like India that can't even wipe their butts much less make a good bearing. They are all either junk or just repackaged. Thanks obama
just had to replace mine on my tacoma and the center ujoint. had to replace the other two ujoints the following weekend. just replace all 4 while you have the driveshaft out. you'll thank yourself later, i promise. when these start going (probably in a year..way she goes) i'll just be ordering a new one-piece drive shaft with sealed ujoints. barely more than an OEM 2-piece, and less stuff to replace when the time comes.
Important!!!!! Dear friends, it has been a year since the Replacement of the OEM unit. The aftermarket unit is failing. Please don't buy aftermarket carrier bearing. I am buying a OEM OEM bearing unit. Will be making another video announcing this.
Mines shakes after 15mph and I checked it today's and I seen one of the u-joints bad . I'm wondering if I should replace all u- joints and the center support or just that one u joint?
Ironically, I just greased my 2003 Tacoma original universal joints yesterday. The universals and the center support bearing have no play in them. The rubber in the support bearing still looks like new! My truck has 192,000 miles and this is the first time I greased them.
Doorman seems like a cheaper brand, even with a koyo inner. Might want to go.with the dealer or greaseable timken brand bearing. At this time you may also wanna service that double cardigan and have the entire shaft rebalanced at a shaft shop since you may have lost a weight during wheeling. Great video as always
@@theotherguy3083 I bought a complete rear shaft off an 03 that wasn't in the rust belt, took it to a shaft shop and had them replace all the bearings and the support bearing when my own support bearing died. Bolted it on at the fire station and it has run smooth since
Just a suggestion, don't clean everything with brake cleaner. Use a degreaser that doesn't attack like brake cleaner does. Works super fast but can tear up seals with 1 cleaning.
@@theotherguy3083 my driveshaft broke the u joints this morning in my 2013 DCSB tacoma 4x4 lol. I was on my way to work at 4:30 and it let go in the middle of the road, 😭😂 that's why I was watching your video the other day. Now I've ordered some new Spicer joints and a new Inland Empire Driveshaft Center Bearing Support Bearing ID: 1.181" 211590-1XS
I'm getting ready to do my 2006 tundra and have watched a few vids in preparation .I noticed that wasn't mentioned and thought it seemed important....but really enjoyed your vid ---thanks. other vids left out taking advantage of the ability to grease u joints .....so I thank you for that.
@@csw923 it is really hard when I am the only one setting up camera angle, editing, and working. Sometime I forget steps because I have to do so many things at the same time. Tells you I am only human.
The first U joint flange you took off looked really loose. You should mention to check all U joints for play and possible replacement. You marked the 2 ends of the driveshaft but didn't mark the center splined flange. Should have mentioned lining the shaft with your marks. Since the holes that bolt the center bearing to frame are slotted, do you have to adjust how it sits or just hope that it lines up correctly. Just suggestions for novice mechanics. Keep on truckin'...
Word to the wise the mid joints are not ment to be replaced and finding replacements are a hassle (if no play I wouldn't touch them) (if play make sure u get the part before taking apart)
I have a 2000 Tundra and even if it has only 140,000km on it. I’ve noticed, like you, that mileage isn’t everything. An 18 year old piece of plastic, rubber, steal or whatever eventually wears, rusts or deteriorates with time. It’s sad to see the possible start of a uphill battle but so for now seeing others cling to the truck they love keeps me motivated. I have off-road videos not yet edited. Right now it’s just my CRV on the channel... anyways, what was the symptoms that led you to notice it was due for replacement? Wobble? Noise? Visual inspection when looking at something else? Keep fighting the good fight and make videos. Cheers
The main reason that brought me to this point was a irritating clunk as you began to take off from dead stop. Upon inspection, I saw the tear and wobble. Due to the age of my truck, I noticed that all the rubber stuff are beginning to dry and rot. Thus, the replacements.
Is it necessary to remove it from the transmission as you did to remove the whole driveshaft or can I just split it just forward of the carrier bearing and remove it from the rear differential?
So is it that the support bearing may not be worn out but the rubber bushing that it sits in is? My 2002 Tacoma I notice a good bit of play in the bushing but the bearing seems OK so I guess I should change out the support bearing. its never been changed.
Important!!!!! Dear friends, it has been a year since the Replacement of the OEM unit. The aftermarket unit is failing. Please don't buy aftermarket carrier bearing. I am buying a OEM OEM bearing unit. Will be making another video announcing this.
If you didn't and have you not rotate the diff, there is one in 4 chances that you can reinstall it back to it's original spot. Try it, if there is no vibration, you should be ok.
@@theotherguy3083 I have a rotation sound what sounds to be coming from the front of my Tundra, the shop said my bearing was fine but my cv axels was both gone well I picked it up today with new Cv's and it still has a slight rotation sound just not as bad as before, so I'm not sure what my problem is.
@@jeremy98269 i don't understand by what you mean by rotational sound. However, if it is a carrier bearing, you should have drive line vibration. You can do underneath it and push it up and down to see if it makes any sound. Please view this video ua-cam.com/video/L9HpbRhaA6I/v-deo.html
Hello, my bearing carrier is gone bad. The factor price is over my budget. I want to know how long your carrier last you and should I go for aftermarket carrier and brand? Thnx
He did pump it till grease came out. A little tip, the grease is inside the bearing so you pump slow until the first sign the grease comes out then stop and clean the zerk fitting of excess grease so it doesnt get clogged. If you go crazy with the grease gushing out then that grease slings everywhere for no reason. Once the grease first comes out and makes a little fart noise lol thats it, you know its lubricated.👍
@@theotherguy3083 I wana do this repair myself aslong as I don't have to do u joints lol don't wanna learn that yet 😂 maybe next weekend. My truck squeeks and a small clunk when I stop and go (initial torque) truck has 100k miles
It also does not matter which direction the bearing goes on just that its right side up when mounted as the mounts are not in the center of the bearing housing
I'm just wondering why you didn't keep pumping the grease gun until you saw the red grease coming out of each bearing surface rather than quitting once you saw the black grease moving and then move on. Seems to me that if I were doing this I'd want to know that the black grease had been fully removed from the joint. I also felt that you skipped a llot of steps by simply describing what you did and I never saw you actually grease the sliding yoke on the back as that has a specific procedure for greasing it that is different from the other lube zerks. Not showing your expertise on how you got all the old grease out of your assemblies seemed lazy to me, as perhaps we all could have learned a better method than what your viewers had at their disposal. Saying that if we don't know how to clean the area, then the job is too tough for us to do is condescending at the very least. Not gonna click the thumbs down and ruin your perfect score, but also not gonna click the thumbs up. Using different height spacers for the carrier bearing is not gonna help the longevity of your new carrier bearing and one wonders why you didn't do this when you installed the 7" lift kit and your viewers may have put two and two together by thinking the lack of spacers may have caused the premature wearing of your carrier bearing in the first place. How are those upper and lower ball joints tolerating that lift kit, especially when the Tundra factory ball joints are a weak design to being with.??
Sorry for not showing everything. In the past I used to make multiple parts lasting hours and people would yell at me for taking too long. I guess, I can't please everyone. To-date, everything is functioning normal. Even my BJs. Maybe I should do a video about my build and how the lift kit brings my BJ back to OEM angles?
@@theotherguy3083 you definitely can’t please everyone man I came to your video because the other channel didn’t get straight to the point like you did thank you
Thanks guy! helped me in reassembly. Just replaced mine on the side of the road, not too bad. The bearing nut is 133lbs, back off 1 full turn, then 60lbs, so says the FSM, but gave it about 68 lbs after setting the bearing. And then staked the nut.
Dude your channel has been amazing for fixing things on my Tundra! Every time I search what's going on with my truck I seem to find one of your videos.
I figured common folks like us would find the things that I do useful. My experiences has been that mechanics like to take advantage of people with little knowledge of their vehicles. That is why I started this show. If you find it helpful please like and subscribe and share with your friends.
Same. Thank you
The Other Guy 1st gens are the unicorn of the truck world in canada. Knowledge and parts are hard to come by. I think we are victims of the success our trucks carried through to the next generations. Mine’s a 2000, white, 175,000km. It just started vibrating on throttle recently. I’m hoping that rubber is the problem. Now that I have your video I can guesstimate time and cost and negotiate with the wife if I go DIY or not. I figure a full Saturday dedicated would be about right, with room for unexpected... cheers to all the Gen 1 owners out there!
A word to the wise - Mark your driveshaft before taking it apart to maintain the BALANCE of the shaft!
He does that like 3 mins into the video
@@thegolfdude
He only submits doing the furthest ends of driveshaft yolks. Using the nuts as spacers is a bit cheesy, but call me crazy, I even replaced the 24mm Stake Nut...
Also, the first tightening should plant CSB, be loosened, THEN tightened to spec.
133 ft/lbs, loosen, then torque to 60 ft/lbs, stake the nut.
You're welcome.
I did not do that when I done this job 5 days ago and there is slight vibration..likely due to not marking the shafts and yokes position before taking them apart...oh well..any answers on fix?
@@jerrysponagle3881following, I did the same
Could of done without the "word to the wise" part. You're platitudes bore me. Just get to the point.
Very helpful...one important thing I noticed was when you reattached the splined yoke to the front driveshaft section and then bolted the double cardan joint flange to it, the u-joint loops on the cardan joint flange need to line up with the front u-joint loops on the front driveshaft or it creates an out of phase condition and possible vibration. Just reattach the splined yoke in the proper alignment. You can see this at 24:14 in your video. Thanx for the video.
yes the most important part... he forgot to clock the u-joints
Mine a 2005 2-wheel drive SR5. Only 124,000 miles, but squeak squeak squeak. I’ve been afraid to take it to Toyota in fear of labor rate sticker shock. Thanks for this, I think I can do this.
Excellent instructions Other Guy . About to do this on a 90 xtracab Toyota. Looks similar and I may be able to drop the rear only as suggested at the end of vid.
Mark your drive shaft joints first and remember to "stake" that nut before you reassemble the carrier bearing so the nut doesn't walk off the bolt!
Good job on your tundra, less vibration is always a good thing. I bought a cheaper bearing for my 2wd Tacoma and it lasted maybe a year and half. Now I got a better timken brand, hopefully it will be better.
KOYO was the oem manufacturer for my 06 wheel bearings. They didn’t last very long at all. Replaced them with Timken and they ended up being re-boxed KOYO.
My brother works for timken and they shipped all their manufacturing to countries like India that can't even wipe their butts much less make a good bearing. They are all either junk or just repackaged. Thanks obama
just had to replace mine on my tacoma and the center ujoint. had to replace the other two ujoints the following weekend. just replace all 4 while you have the driveshaft out. you'll thank yourself later, i promise.
when these start going (probably in a year..way she goes) i'll just be ordering a new one-piece drive shaft with sealed ujoints. barely more than an OEM 2-piece, and less stuff to replace when the time comes.
I replaced my control arm and lower and up ball joints and tie rod ends with after market parts hope they last me thank you for the great videos
Important!!!!!
Dear friends, it has been a year since the Replacement of the OEM unit. The aftermarket unit is failing. Please don't buy aftermarket carrier bearing. I am buying a OEM OEM bearing unit. Will be making another video announcing this.
@@waltermaciel9355 you can get it here
Look at this on eBay
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F201945049761
Was this making your truck vibrate
@@juantellez9280 yes
Mines shakes after 15mph and I checked it today's and I seen one of the u-joints bad . I'm wondering if I should replace all u- joints and the center support or just that one u joint?
@@juantellez9280 yes. Replace the them all if you have the time and budget
Ironically, I just greased my 2003 Tacoma original universal joints yesterday. The universals and the center support bearing have no play in them. The rubber in the support bearing still looks like new! My truck has 192,000 miles and this is the first time I greased them.
Damn! Lucky
@@pitchforkpeasant6219 the truck now has 197K miles on it and my son is the new owner. Yes, I didn't drive it much after retiring 15 years ago.
@@2-old-Forthischet nice! Thx for the reply 👍👍
I recently did mine at 470,000km, used a Timken branded part, seems good so far
Awesome video man...gave me the confidence to try this myself on our 85 Toyota Pickup (which is also our home). Wish me luck!
"I'm not gunna tell you the torque spec because I'm gunna use this 250lb impact gun instead"
I think that nut is only 133 ft-lbs. Probably gonna come off hard the next time :)
Doorman seems like a cheaper brand, even with a koyo inner. Might want to go.with the dealer or greaseable timken brand bearing.
At this time you may also wanna service that double cardigan and have the entire shaft rebalanced at a shaft shop since you may have lost a weight during wheeling. Great video as always
Dorman. They use koyo bearings, made in Japan. That is why I decided to go with this brand.
@@theotherguy3083 I bought a complete rear shaft off an 03 that wasn't in the rust belt, took it to a shaft shop and had them replace all the bearings and the support bearing when my own support bearing died. Bolted it on at the fire station and it has run smooth since
@@somemedic mine runs fine. No vibration what so ever after the replacement.
@@theotherguy3083 get the spicer brand, it says Toyota right on it. I got one from Amazon for 66$.
Don't have to remove the drive shafts, just the carrier bearing and it will come apart enough to replace
Excellent video brother. Thank you for the clear explanations.
Just a suggestion, don't clean everything with brake cleaner. Use a degreaser that doesn't attack like brake cleaner does. Works super fast but can tear up seals with 1 cleaning.
One of your merch shirts should be “we don’t like crud” lol love the videos man !
Am I the only one who stopped the video to see who tf was mowing my yard 🤔🌿🌱😂
Well, you are definitely the first to mention it
@@theotherguy3083 my driveshaft broke the u joints this morning in my 2013 DCSB tacoma 4x4 lol. I was on my way to work at 4:30 and it let go in the middle of the road, 😭😂 that's why I was watching your video the other day. Now I've ordered some new Spicer joints and a new Inland Empire Driveshaft Center Bearing Support Bearing ID: 1.181"
211590-1XS
@@arrowheadhunter420 That is awesome hope everything works out for you
Haha! Me too! And my landscape doesn’t even have a blade of grass 😂
Mine looks a lot worse than that. I'm gonna have to replace mine soon. Thanks for the videos.
When you installed your (torque spec'd nut) you forgot to take a punch and hit it where the channel is to keep it from backing off.
Thanks for catching that. I did went back to do it.
I'm getting ready to do my 2006 tundra and have watched a few vids in preparation .I noticed that wasn't mentioned and thought it seemed important....but really enjoyed your vid ---thanks. other vids left out taking advantage of the ability to grease u joints .....so I thank you for that.
@@csw923 it is really hard when I am the only one setting up camera angle, editing, and working. Sometime I forget steps because I have to do so many things at the same time. Tells you I am only human.
yes it looks hard to do ......keep up the good work and keep them coming.
The first U joint flange you took off looked really loose. You should mention to check all U joints for play and possible replacement. You marked the 2 ends of the driveshaft but didn't mark the center splined flange. Should have mentioned lining the shaft with your marks. Since the holes that bolt the center bearing to frame are slotted, do you have to adjust how it sits or just hope that it lines up correctly. Just suggestions for novice mechanics. Keep on truckin'...
Word to the wise the mid joints are not ment to be replaced and finding replacements are a hassle (if no play I wouldn't touch them) (if play make sure u get the part before taking apart)
Yeah I understand your job is good for me.
Wonder why the thick spacer on the diff side its not supposed to be there
You need a special tool for this. It's called a hammer. Haha jesus
Thanks a lot other guy
Yeah funny, the special tool is your brain and your hands. Lol
I have a 2000 Tundra and even if it has only 140,000km on it. I’ve noticed, like you, that mileage isn’t everything. An 18 year old piece of plastic, rubber, steal or whatever eventually wears, rusts or deteriorates with time. It’s sad to see the possible start of a uphill battle but so for now seeing others cling to the truck they love keeps me motivated. I have off-road videos not yet edited. Right now it’s just my CRV on the channel... anyways, what was the symptoms that led you to notice it was due for replacement? Wobble? Noise? Visual inspection when looking at something else? Keep fighting the good fight and make videos. Cheers
The main reason that brought me to this point was a irritating clunk as you began to take off from dead stop. Upon inspection, I saw the tear and wobble. Due to the age of my truck, I noticed that all the rubber stuff are beginning to dry and rot. Thus, the replacements.
Btw, I used to have a CRV as well. But sold it along time ago. But yeah, I wanna see your Tundra videos
If that center bearing is gone, your transmission mount probably needs replacing at the same time.
No. I checked it. It is ok.
I like that you clean
Nice video
Thank you my friend for your. very helpful video..
thank you vi thought it was my U JOINTS but it was my support bracket
Was it fixed?
Is it necessary to remove it from the transmission as you did to remove the whole driveshaft or can I just split it just forward of the carrier bearing and remove it from the rear differential?
To me, this is the best method.
@@theotherguy3083 Gonna try and tackle this this week on my 05 DC SR5 Tundra. Thanks. I got my Spicer center support bearing already.
koyo made in japa, best in the world
So is it that the support bearing may not be worn out but the rubber bushing that it sits in is? My 2002 Tacoma I notice a good bit of play in the bushing but the bearing seems OK so I guess I should change out the support bearing. its never been changed.
Yes. The bearing is still good. The rubber wore out.
Important!!!!!
Dear friends, it has been a year since the Replacement of the OEM unit. The aftermarket unit is failing. Please don't buy aftermarket carrier bearing. I am buying a OEM OEM bearing unit. Will be making another video announcing this.
Or just unbolt it and flip it around
Did you mark the shaft where it connects to the carrier bearing? I didn’t do this and now I’m not sure if it matters which way it goes in.
If you didn't and have you not rotate the diff, there is one in 4 chances that you can reinstall it back to it's original spot. Try it, if there is no vibration, you should be ok.
What year is this truck and is it 4x4 ?
@@Nctbgs 2000. 4x4
Most times it's recommended to peen the nut after TORQUE to 65 ft/lbs so that nut will back off from the flange spindle
1:52 😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣
21:49 why did you need a space now if you didnt have one the the original one? good video and is the same for a the supra drive shaft?
"because its like been here forever, you need a special tool, its called a hammer"
LOL! A rather large one will suface!
Thank You. sitting with a pad and paper, doin my homework...
If my truck is making a ticking noise from the driveshaft area could this be the problem? It roughly happens at slow speed and I really need help
Check for excessive play and torn rubber in the center support bearing. If it is bad, chances are it is.
The Other Guy thank you really appreciate the help
1:51 GOOOT EEEMMMM
Did mine already...do not need to remove both driveshafts...not sure why you did.
Easier to re-lube.
thank you i thought i had to take the u joints off now i see its not that hard
That think is done son.
Did your truck make a noise before replacing the support bearing?
No, just vibration.
@@theotherguy3083 I have a rotation sound what sounds to be coming from the front of my Tundra, the shop said my bearing was fine but my cv axels was both gone well I picked it up today with new Cv's and it still has a slight rotation sound just not as bad as before, so I'm not sure what my problem is.
@@jeremy98269 i don't understand by what you mean by rotational sound. However, if it is a carrier bearing, you should have drive line vibration. You can do underneath it and push it up and down to see if it makes any sound.
Please view this video
ua-cam.com/video/L9HpbRhaA6I/v-deo.html
Is there supposed to be play in that bearing at all ? an is that hole on it for greasing it ? Thanks
Yes there should be some play. If you test yours and there is a lot of play and noise like a turkey call then yours is broken. Replace.
May as well just go with a 1 piece driveshaft. Much smoother and less problems.
What's the front part of drive shaft called
Thanks Dog
So, how long did that part last, I understand only the Toyota brand lasts.
It lasted 18 years
1 question though:
Do we like crud?
???
Y u yankin on ur grease gun like that? Thats why its leaking broski
Is the Milwaukee impact gun the 1/2 or the 3/8?
What's are the symptoms on a bad center support bearing
Vibration during take off, while on the highway if you let of the accelerator pedal, it starts to vibrate, coming to stop will also vibrate.
what size is the extended bolt?
Hello, my bearing carrier is gone bad. The factor price is over my budget. I want to know how long your carrier last you and should I go for aftermarket carrier and brand? Thnx
Oem only. Goto ebay and order it. Cheaper that way.
@@theotherguy3083 thank you. I like your channel!
@@johnsmith-si7bj please support me by liking, subscribing, and sharing.
hello i was just wondering do you have any information on replacing the driveshaft bearings on a 2010 toyota venza?
Good video but i would pump the gun until i see new grease!
He did pump it till grease came out. A little tip, the grease is inside the bearing so you pump slow until the first sign the grease comes out then stop and clean the zerk fitting of excess grease so it doesnt get clogged. If you go crazy with the grease gushing out then that grease slings everywhere for no reason. Once the grease first comes out and makes a little fart noise lol thats it, you know its lubricated.👍
Thank!!
will this be the same process on my 2008 tacoma off road?
Same concept
@@theotherguy3083 I wana do this repair myself aslong as I don't have to do u joints lol don't wanna learn that yet 😂 maybe next weekend. My truck squeeks and a small clunk when I stop and go (initial torque) truck has 100k miles
@@donnieflame squeak and clunk? How many miles you got?
@@theotherguy3083 100k miles (160k kms)
@@donnieflame check for excessive play. If the center support bearing is bad replace
I thought you didn’t have to remove the entire drive shaft to do this?
You didn't watch the video?
Lol sorry I stopped at 19 minutes
Good vid for sure
Good... 💪💪
Is this the same bearing for the toyota Mark 2 jzx110?
I am unsure. But the bearing is Koyo, the same brand as the OEM.
Is that Milwaukee a 1/2 or 3/8 ? Thank you!!
1/2 inch. I did a review on it.
Bruh how tf do he just pull the Bearing off without puller 🤯
Did you watch the video? It's all in the video. Lmbo
Felipe Esparza is that you
No I am not him. Lol
@@theotherguy3083 just playing. you sound like him. Watching your video prepping for tomorrow. Thanks man!
Did you grease your yoke
Yes I did
Deez nuts
Deez nutz!!! 😂
There is zero reason for you to drop the rear shaft at the back like that at all.
PHEW ...I thought I was the only one to figure that . When he does his U joints , he will get it.
It also does not matter which direction the bearing goes on just that its right side up when mounted as the mounts are not in the center of the bearing housing
Kung-fu torque?
dennis ranck we call it a two grunter
Your hmoob, I can hear you speak..
I'm just wondering why you didn't keep pumping the grease gun until you saw the red grease coming out of each bearing surface rather than quitting once you saw the black grease moving and then move on. Seems to me that if I were doing this I'd want to know that the black grease had been fully removed from the joint. I also felt that you skipped a llot of steps by simply describing what you did and I never saw you actually grease the sliding yoke on the back as that has a specific procedure for greasing it that is different from the other lube zerks. Not showing your expertise on how you got all the old grease out of your assemblies seemed lazy to me, as perhaps we all could have learned a better method than what your viewers had at their disposal. Saying that if we don't know how to clean the area, then the job is too tough for us to do is condescending at the very least. Not gonna click the thumbs down and ruin your perfect score, but also not gonna click the thumbs up. Using different height spacers for the carrier bearing is not gonna help the longevity of your new carrier bearing and one wonders why you didn't do this when you installed the 7" lift kit and your viewers may have put two and two together by thinking the lack of spacers may have caused the premature wearing of your carrier bearing in the first place. How are those upper and lower ball joints tolerating that lift kit, especially when the Tundra factory ball joints are a weak design to being with.??
Sorry for not showing everything. In the past I used to make multiple parts lasting hours and people would yell at me for taking too long. I guess, I can't please everyone.
To-date, everything is functioning normal. Even my BJs.
Maybe I should do a video about my build and how the lift kit brings my BJ back to OEM angles?
@@theotherguy3083 you definitely can’t please everyone man I came to your video because the other channel didn’t get straight to the point like you did thank you