DUUUUUDE... I really thought I was going to have to take my driveshaft to someone to get this done. I just did it in maybe 25 minutes thanks to your video. Cant tell you how much I appreciate your video!! THANK YOU!!
That's awesome! Thank you for great compliment. That's the reasons for my channel and I love hearing it helps. You are absolutely welcome. I appreciate you watching and sharing your experience.
Glad it worked out for you! I'm about to attempt mine this weekend & idk that it's ever been replaced... new to me 2006 tundra now with 201k on the dash. Were you able to get your old bearing off the shaft easily? I'm worried mines gonna be stuck af. I know this guy's came right off bc he said he'd replaced his twice already.
You sir are a true hero. Took me about an hour cus I had to take a torch to some rusty bolts but this saved so much time compared to dropping the whole driveshaft. For anyone wondering, process is the exact same on 01 tacoma 4x4. Thank you for sharing this video!
Awesome!! Thank you for the great compliment. Appreciate you sharing your experience with the Tacoma. So happy my video was helpful. Thanks for supporting my channel. Cheers.
Awesome!! Thank you for the great compliment. Appreciate you sharing your experience with the Tacoma. So happy my video was helpful. Thanks for supporting my channel. Cheers.
Getting ready to do mine on my 05 . I found your video to make sure I didn't have any gotchas when changing it out. Nicely done. I just subscribed. It's nice to see video of it done and not just go by the FSM.
Of course it is that easy! Every other persons' video on this repair scared me away from attempting this myself, which lead to waiting to long to take it a shop and lead to me needing an entire new driveshaft along with the bearing. I've got this video saved for the next time! Thanks!
Oh no. I hate hearing that. First time I did it I pulled entire driveshaft, but it still all came apart as easy. I've now done it this way 4 times. Thanks for saving my video. And thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it.
@@funjunkiegarage your 3rd gen 4Runner CV axle video helped me out a ton too! You are my go to channel when it comes to working on my Toyota's! Also, those Auxito headlight bulbs are amazing with the factory headlight gasket. Thanks for everything!
Dude this is so awesome to hear! Thank you very much. And you are absolutely welcome. I love to see my channels goals realized and recognized. Saying I'm your go to channel has really made my day. I appreciate you sharing that. And I appreciate your support! Have a great day.
Front or rear? In this video ua-cam.com/video/8hq7Ogd19Ss/v-deo.html I install an Eaton TruTrac in the rear of my 2000 Tundra. The e-locker you just have to drill a hole for the wires. I wish I would have done the e-locker when I bought the TruTrac, but it is twice the price. If you want to put a Tacoma factory elocker in there is a kit. You cut away your diff housing to allow for the actuator, weld in the plate that has the holes already drilled and tapped and done. Let me know if we're talking about the same stuff.
Because of this video and the one from a while back I felt comfortable doing this myself. Unfortunately mine wasn't a straightforward 15 minute job. My old carrier bearing was STUCK on and I couldn't get it off while under the truck. But it's done and I feel good that I was still able to do it myself thanks to your videos.
Sorry to hear yours was stuck, but I'm glad you got it. It's awesome to hear my videos were helpful, thank you for sharing that. My goal is to motivate and inspire. Thanks for watching and supporting my channel I greatly appreciate it
Been chasing a vibration for a few weeks now. About $400 in parts later ive got new CV axles and have realized its the carrier! This video came in such perfect timing. Thank you!
You're welcome. Happy you found it at the right time and it was helpful. Chasing vibrations can be tricky for certain. Thanks for watching and commenting
The 24mm nut needs to be torqued to 134 ft.lb. to seat it, then backed off and re-torqued to 51 ft.lb. This ensures it's seated properly and is probably why some people say these are pressed on.
After watching this video a month ago I decided to buy a cheap bearing from Rock Auto. If the cheap carrier bearing last 50,000 miles, that is ten years for me. Thanks for the video. I ordered one on close out from Rock auto for $11.00. Maybe it will last a five years.
Nice, I buy lots of stuff from Rock Auto close out. I hope you get good use from it. Thanks for watching and sharing, I appreciate your support of my channel
bruh i just did this in my 04 tundra luckily its a florida car so it was so easy taking the bearing off no rust, thanks man Did not wanna remove my ujoints
Hi there, I did buy the Toyota version and swapped it out not knowing how long these are suppose to last. You got 50k out of yours good to know. It was a pretty easy swap so I would think about the RockAuto next time. It might be awhile since I work from home now and don't drive it much except for pleasure. Love these videos, you're an excellent teacher. Thanks.
Hello. Yes, I like to try the inexpensive parts and see how it goes. Not bad at all with this one. I work at home as well, but my work involves using my truck often. Happy to hear you enjoy my videos, I really appreciate the compliments! I also much appreciate your continued support of my channel. Have a good one.
Awesome video, thanks for showing us this! Maybe I did something wrong but I recommend supporting the rear segment of the driveshaft while doing this as mine slid right off the slip yoke. Added a little more time and a whole lot of headache 😂
Thank you. I appreciate the compliment. Thank you for sharing your experience with the driveshaft. The less headache the better. Much appreciate you watching and leaving a comment.
Thanks for your expertise and clear demonstration. It's given me confidence to attempt it on my 2010 Tundra 4x4. Could you tell me if it's the same as on your truck? Thanks
Thank you for the great compliments. I'm afraid it's different on the newer trucks. You have to remove a u joint to get to the nut and pull the yoke out of the front part of the shaft to get the bearing off/on. I'm sure you can do the job just fine. I don't have a video on the process for your truck but there are some good ones out there. Please let me know how it turns out. Here is a link ua-cam.com/video/vvC7Iy3RKog/v-deo.htmlsi=GQ9N5Cye3BKb8NIg this is for a 2010 model I appreciate you watching and supporting my channel.
I thank you for this advice as my newest one is failing. I've been looking at some real fancy ones I'll definitely checkout the one you suggested. Thank you for watching and commenting and supporting my channel. I'll let you know what happens
Thanks for the awesome video. I just completed it. When I got it all back together I noticed two shims on the ground. They looked clean, so I assume they’re from the new bearing. Somehow I didn’t even see them- How critical are they?
My existing bearing had 1 shim and I reinstalled it in the same place it came out from. Of the 4 I've done, this is the first shim I've found. My new bearing didn't come with any. I'm no professional, but I can't see it being a big deal. They are very thin, I wouldn't worry about them personally. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and supporting my channel.
That's definitely the way I'm going meow Sucks having to replace it again. I really appreciate your input. Thank you for watching and sharing your experience
@@funjunkiegarage thank you for demonstrating how easy it is, and not having to remove your entire shaft if it's just your carrier and not your splines or u-joints going bad. Generally the carrier replacement will solve the bumping at stop and go, and the vibration. I was getting a 30mph vibration through the steering wheel and so I wiggled my driveshaft and saw some play. Ironically after jiggling the unit my vibration at 30mph went away. So I know it's the carrier. I'll be replacing mine soon and will use this technique. One thing to remember for future videos is putting torque specs on the screen so people can know how to fasten everything safely and correctly.
Right on. I do appreciate the suggestion to add torque specs. I consider this often, but I have to add a disclaimer to every video if I get into specifics
I wouldn't think it could cause a big problem. I've done some of these that didn't have a shim to start with (at least by the time I got to it). I can't say for sure, but I personally wouldn't be concerned.
Hi. Thank you for this great video! Doing some research on doing the same service on my 01 Tacoma. It looks like the process should be very similar or the same. Do you have any idea if I can use this method on the Tacoma? I would like to not have to drop the whole side shaft.!
You're welcome. This is the same procedure for your Tacoma. Should be simple job. Let me know how it goes please. Thanks for watching and supporting my channel. I really appreciate it.
Really appreciate your videos. Could you answer a question for me? When greasing all driveline zirks. I pump until it comes out the seals. Some have said im blowing them ? I usually pump up and release w little back out. My manual does not really specify. Probably over complicating. Love the channel.
Awesome, thank you. When greasing U Joints I always add until it starts to come out the seals. U Joint seals are soft rubber without internal springs, so they can deform and let excess grease escape. So no, you are not hurting anything. Happy to hear you enjoy my channel. Thanks for the question. I really appreciate you watching and supporting my channel. Have a great day
Nice. Just what I needed to see. Mine is sloppy. I will be replacing this week. I decided to spend the $200 and get the Toyota OEM part though. What does a bad center support do to the truck drive? 3 thumbs up...
Awesome, glad you enjoyed the video. Getting the OEM is a good move. If your bearing goes bad it can cause clunking and vibration as well as noise if it's really bad. Please let me know how the job goes for you. I appreciate your support of my channel.
Thank you. I'd just be guessing, since I've never spent the money on an OEM part. However both of my Tundras, (the 04 I used to have) and the 2000 I currently have, both had about 150,000 miles on what appeared to be the factory bearing . My Toyota dealer wanted approximately $300.00 for an OEM. That's around 6 times as much cost, for 3 times longer life. That's just an estimation from my own experience. I love to go OEM whenever I can but sometimes I just cannot justify the cost. Hope this helps. Thanks for the question. I appreciate you watching and commenting.
After you install the large nut, you stake it into the groove in the threaded part to lock it into place. Hope that answers you question. Thanks for watching and asking.
Center bearing from Rock Auto that is supposed to fit my truck does not. It has mounting arms at a weird angle and looks larger than the one on my 94 Pickup. Not sure what truck uses the part they sent. Luckily it was a close-out part so didn't cost much. They are refunding half my expenses and I can keep the part, although I don't know what I will do with it. Would cost too much to ship back and they won't cover that.
Harbor Freight rechargeable units. www.harborfreight.com/500-lumen-led-rechargeable-magnetic-handheld-foldable-slim-bar-work-light-59536.html?campaignid=12189148308&adsetid=163074506155&product=59536&store=743&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwuG1BhCnARIsAFWBUC33Dp_qqXLfokV64yZx8UzI1hkYF72FfscVVBwZQRcxBWYK1bqNz3QaAvDQEALw_wcB I have 2 of them on during the video
I replaced mine with the anchor brand. Bad choice, it squeaked right away and got worse with mileage and wore out quickly. Tomorrow I will replace it with oem Toyota part.
Thank you for sharing this, I had some reserve thinking mine was gonna be stuck but that was not the case. One thing I saw in another persons UA-cam short ua-cam.com/users/shortsv0pA_Z7yhPk, they were saying there are similar center carriers with or without dust shields in addition to the driveshaft dust seals. And that the centers with their own dust shields cause premature wear. I noticed yours had dust shields on the bearing and the driveshaft, maybe that's why yours are going out faster than you'd like? I feel like they should last longer than 2 years in normal circumstances, idk what yours is obviously, but I figured since you helped me, there's my two cents. Hope it helps you. Ps, i got a Spicer one (Spicer 211750-1X), and it said Toyota on it and it didnt have a dust shield on the bearing itself.
Glad yours wasn't stuck. I always appreciate the sharing of experiences and knowledge. I'll definitely check it out. Many people have suggested the Spicer unit and I'll certainly be giving it a try. Happy you enjoyed the video. I appreciate you watching and sharing your information.
@@funjunkiegarage I've owned my 01 limited for 13 years now and have never replaced this carrier bearing so I am guessing it is original. It is torn so I plan on (trying) to replace it myself. You make it look so easy. What is the point of staking it?
The point of me shaking it is to show excessive movement in the shaft. The point of the carrier bearing is to keep the driveshaft centered and solid (to a point) in the middle. When they wear out, the drive shaft can move up & down with acceleration & deceleration as well as shake & shimmy around at steady speeds. Usually if it's real bad the shaft just rests at the bottom of the bearing housing when parked. If your old one is original, it will say Aisin on the housing and have a timken bearing inside. It is as easy as it looks in the video. I'd spend the $$ on the Spicer brand unit. Other viewers have said it's way better. Honestly this Anchor brand unit I installed in this video is already failing. Lastly, don't go mega buck on the solid kind with the solid polyurethane center. The vibration transfer is crazy unless your driveline is flawlessly perfect. Really hope this helps. Would love to hear how the project goes. Cheers
@@funjunkiegarage ordered the spicer today. I don’t drive the truck much this time of year. Will me a project for before winter up here in WNY. Thanks !
It can cause a drive line vibration. Also a feeling of slop in the driveline. Can cause a clunk when going from drive to reverse. You can move it up and down a bunch Hope this helps.
1. I did mark the driveshaft/flange location by scratching it with a wrench. (I even put text on screen about the importance of marking it). If you are referring to orientation of the 2 sections of the shaft, since I didn't remove it, it has no choice but to go back in the same orientation it was in. Hope this helps. 2. Why does it need supported? It isn't hurting it to hang. 3. Thank you for watching and commenting
DUUUUUDE... I really thought I was going to have to take my driveshaft to someone to get this done. I just did it in maybe 25 minutes thanks to your video. Cant tell you how much I appreciate your video!! THANK YOU!!
That's awesome!
Thank you for great compliment.
That's the reasons for my channel and I love hearing it helps.
You are absolutely welcome.
I appreciate you watching and sharing your experience.
Glad it worked out for you!
I'm about to attempt mine this weekend & idk that it's ever been replaced... new to me 2006 tundra now with 201k on the dash.
Were you able to get your old bearing off the shaft easily?
I'm worried mines gonna be stuck af.
I know this guy's came right off bc he said he'd replaced his twice already.
You sir are a true hero. Took me about an hour cus I had to take a torch to some rusty bolts but this saved so much time compared to dropping the whole driveshaft. For anyone wondering, process is the exact same on 01 tacoma 4x4. Thank you for sharing this video!
Awesome!!
Thank you for the great compliment.
Appreciate you sharing your experience with the Tacoma. So happy my video was helpful.
Thanks for supporting my channel.
Cheers.
Awesome!!
Thank you for the great compliment.
Appreciate you sharing your experience with the Tacoma. So happy my video was helpful.
Thanks for supporting my channel.
Cheers.
Getting ready to do mine on my 05 . I found your video to make sure I didn't have any gotchas when changing it out. Nicely done. I just subscribed. It's nice to see video of it done and not just go by the FSM.
Thank you.
Glad you found the video helpful.
I appreciate the sub and the support of my channel.
Have a great day
Of course it is that easy! Every other persons' video on this repair scared me away from attempting this myself, which lead to waiting to long to take it a shop and lead to me needing an entire new driveshaft along with the bearing. I've got this video saved for the next time! Thanks!
Oh no. I hate hearing that.
First time I did it I pulled entire driveshaft, but it still all came apart as easy.
I've now done it this way 4 times.
Thanks for saving my video.
And thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it.
@@funjunkiegarage your 3rd gen 4Runner CV axle video helped me out a ton too! You are my go to channel when it comes to working on my Toyota's! Also, those Auxito headlight bulbs are amazing with the factory headlight gasket. Thanks for everything!
Dude this is so awesome to hear!
Thank you very much.
And you are absolutely welcome.
I love to see my channels goals realized and recognized.
Saying I'm your go to channel has really made my day. I appreciate you sharing that.
And I appreciate your support!
Have a great day.
@@funjunkiegarage now how do you install an E locker on a 1st gen Tundra?
Front or rear?
In this video ua-cam.com/video/8hq7Ogd19Ss/v-deo.html
I install an Eaton TruTrac in the rear of my 2000 Tundra.
The e-locker you just have to drill a hole for the wires.
I wish I would have done the e-locker when I bought the TruTrac, but it is twice the price.
If you want to put a Tacoma factory elocker in there is a kit. You cut away your diff housing to allow for the actuator, weld in the plate that has the holes already drilled and tapped and done.
Let me know if we're talking about the same stuff.
Because of this video and the one from a while back I felt comfortable doing this myself. Unfortunately mine wasn't a straightforward 15 minute job. My old carrier bearing was STUCK on and I couldn't get it off while under the truck. But it's done and I feel good that I was still able to do it myself thanks to your videos.
Sorry to hear yours was stuck, but I'm glad you got it. It's awesome to hear my videos were helpful, thank you for sharing that. My goal is to motivate and inspire.
Thanks for watching and supporting my channel I greatly appreciate it
some of the best videos (as in most practical) I've seen on the first gen Tundras. Thanks!
You're welcome.
Much appreciate your kind words.
Thank you for your support.
Been chasing a vibration for a few weeks now. About $400 in parts later ive got new CV axles and have realized its the carrier! This video came in such perfect timing. Thank you!
You're welcome. Happy you found it at the right time and it was helpful. Chasing vibrations can be tricky for certain.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Auto mechanic shops will tell you it's your differential
The 24mm nut needs to be torqued to 134 ft.lb. to seat it, then backed off and re-torqued to 51 ft.lb. This ensures it's seated properly and is probably why some people say these are pressed on.
Thank you for that information.
I appreciate you watching and sharing your knowledge.
Got 35 years out of my 88 Toyota truck -now in the process of refurbishing it...thanks for the video.
That's awesome.
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
Enjoy your project.
Better than a new one
I did this in 20 minutes literally. Thanks so much!!! Unbelievable.
You're welcome.
Happy to hear it all went well.
Thanks for watching and sharing your experience.
I appreciate your support.
I’m glad I saw this video bc I was about to pull my whole shaft
I'm glad you found it also.
Saves time for sure.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
After watching this video a month ago I decided to buy a cheap bearing from Rock Auto. If the cheap carrier bearing last 50,000 miles, that is ten years for me. Thanks for the video. I ordered one on close out from Rock auto for $11.00. Maybe it will last a five years.
Nice, I buy lots of stuff from Rock Auto close out.
I hope you get good use from it.
Thanks for watching and sharing, I appreciate your support of my channel
bruh i just did this in my 04 tundra luckily its a florida car so it was so easy taking the bearing off no rust, thanks man Did not wanna remove my ujoints
You're welcome.
Always happy to hear the project went well. Thanks for sharing your experience and supporting my channel.
Hi there, I did buy the Toyota version and swapped it out not knowing how long these are suppose to last. You got 50k out of yours good to know. It was a pretty easy swap so I would think about the RockAuto next time. It might be awhile since I work from home now and don't drive it much except for pleasure. Love these videos, you're an excellent teacher. Thanks.
Hello.
Yes, I like to try the inexpensive parts and see how it goes. Not bad at all with this one.
I work at home as well, but my work involves using my truck often.
Happy to hear you enjoy my videos, I really appreciate the compliments!
I also much appreciate your continued support of my channel.
Have a good one.
Awesome video, thanks for showing us this! Maybe I did something wrong but I recommend supporting the rear segment of the driveshaft while doing this as mine slid right off the slip yoke. Added a little more time and a whole lot of headache 😂
Thank you.
I appreciate the compliment.
Thank you for sharing your experience with the driveshaft. The less headache the better.
Much appreciate you watching and leaving a comment.
Great vid, Old Schooled and Done like a Dinner!👌🎯
Thank you brother. Much appreciate you watching and commenting .
Awesome video. Thank you. I need to replace my carrier bearing.
You're welcome.
I appreciate the compliment.
Enjoy the project.
Thank you for watching and commenting.
And that folks is how it’s done on the 4x4 Tundras!! My OEM center bearing went bad at 217,000 miles!!
Indeed it is!
That's great milage in the stock bearing.
Much appreciate the support. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great video! I’m confident doing this thanks
Thank you.
Hope it all goes smoothly for you.
You're welcome and I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Great work. Thanks!
Thank you.
I appreciate the awesome compliment.
Thanks for watching and supporting my channel.
Very informative video,Thank you!
Thank you and you're welcome.
I appreciate the support of my channel
It has to stay in alignment due to balance. Weight distribution
Thanks for your expertise and clear demonstration. It's given me confidence to attempt it on my 2010 Tundra 4x4. Could you tell me if it's the same as on your truck? Thanks
Thank you for the great compliments.
I'm afraid it's different on the newer trucks.
You have to remove a u joint to get to the nut and pull the yoke out of the front part of the shaft to get the bearing off/on.
I'm sure you can do the job just fine. I don't have a video on the process for your truck but there are some good ones out there. Please let me know how it turns out. Here is a link ua-cam.com/video/vvC7Iy3RKog/v-deo.htmlsi=GQ9N5Cye3BKb8NIg this is for a 2010 model
I appreciate you watching and supporting my channel.
Gen 1 tundra is 2000-2006
Excellent vid
Thank you very much
You should get a Spicer bearing for $60 more and it will last longer. Spicer is the OEM supplier for Toyota.
I thank you for this advice as my newest one is failing.
I've been looking at some real fancy ones
I'll definitely checkout the one you suggested.
Thank you for watching and commenting and supporting my channel.
I'll let you know what happens
Thanks for the awesome video. I just completed it. When I got it all back together I noticed two shims on the ground. They looked clean, so I assume they’re from the new bearing. Somehow I didn’t even see them- How critical are they?
My existing bearing had 1 shim and I reinstalled it in the same place it came out from.
Of the 4 I've done, this is the first shim I've found.
My new bearing didn't come with any.
I'm no professional, but I can't see it being a big deal. They are very thin, I wouldn't worry about them personally.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for watching and supporting my channel.
Rock Auto sells the spicer Dana bearing. It’s twice the price but lasts a hell of a lot longer.
Thank you for sharing that.
I appreciate your input
I commented before seeing your Spicer recommendation. That's the way to go, personally.
That's definitely the way I'm going meow
Sucks having to replace it again.
I really appreciate your input.
Thank you for watching and sharing your experience
@@funjunkiegarage thank you for demonstrating how easy it is, and not having to remove your entire shaft if it's just your carrier and not your splines or u-joints going bad. Generally the carrier replacement will solve the bumping at stop and go, and the vibration. I was getting a 30mph vibration through the steering wheel and so I wiggled my driveshaft and saw some play. Ironically after jiggling the unit my vibration at 30mph went away. So I know it's the carrier. I'll be replacing mine soon and will use this technique.
One thing to remember for future videos is putting torque specs on the screen so people can know how to fasten everything safely and correctly.
Right on.
I do appreciate the suggestion to add torque specs.
I consider this often, but I have to add a disclaimer to every video if I get into specifics
Couldn’t find the shim until I was cleaning up afterwards. How screwed am I for not having it installed?
I wouldn't think it could cause a big problem.
I've done some of these that didn't have a shim to start with (at least by the time I got to it).
I can't say for sure, but I personally wouldn't be concerned.
Hi. Thank you for this great video! Doing some research on doing the same service on my 01 Tacoma. It looks like the process should be very similar or the same. Do you have any idea if I can use this method on the Tacoma? I would like to not have to drop the whole side shaft.!
You're welcome.
This is the same procedure for your Tacoma.
Should be simple job.
Let me know how it goes please.
Thanks for watching and supporting my channel.
I really appreciate it.
Really appreciate your videos. Could you answer a question for me? When greasing all driveline zirks. I pump until it comes out the seals. Some have said im blowing them ? I usually pump up and release w little back out. My manual does not really specify. Probably over complicating. Love the channel.
Awesome, thank you.
When greasing U Joints I always add until it starts to come out the seals.
U Joint seals are soft rubber without internal springs, so they can deform and let excess grease escape. So no, you are not hurting anything.
Happy to hear you enjoy my channel.
Thanks for the question.
I really appreciate you watching and supporting my channel. Have a great day
Nice. Just what I needed to see. Mine is sloppy. I will be replacing this week. I decided to spend the $200 and get the Toyota OEM part though. What does a bad center support do to the truck drive? 3 thumbs up...
Awesome, glad you enjoyed the video.
Getting the OEM is a good move.
If your bearing goes bad it can cause clunking and vibration as well as noise if it's really bad.
Please let me know how the job goes for you.
I appreciate your support of my channel.
@@funjunkiegarage Will do. Thanks
Absolutely
Good bideo
Thank you.
I appreciate you watching and commenting
I dont know if this is what i have to replace on my 05 tundra ive already replaced my U joints but it still makes a clunking noise when accelerating
If it's really worn out it will cause the driveshaft to flop around, worth checking it for sure.
What symptoms did you have? I have a whirling noise at 10 mph and wondering if that is my issue.
Mine was making noise at slow speeds also.
I had a noise at slow speeds also.
Mine had a slight vibration too.
You can do this to the RWD rear differential?
If a RWD truck has a carrier bearing, and I believe it does. Then yes, same procedure.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I just replaced mine today thank you for the step by step, really helpful video 🫡
You're welcome.
I'm happy you found the video to be a benefit.
Thank you for watching and supporting my channel.
Great video! Question, how long will the OEM last vs the one from Rock Auto?
Thank you.
I'd just be guessing, since I've never spent the money on an OEM part. However both of my Tundras, (the 04 I used to have) and the 2000 I currently have, both had about 150,000 miles on what appeared to be the factory bearing .
My Toyota dealer wanted approximately $300.00
for an OEM. That's around 6 times as much cost, for 3 times longer life. That's just an estimation from my own experience.
I love to go OEM whenever I can but sometimes I just cannot justify the cost.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the question.
I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Just now replacing mine. 327,000mi
That's awesome it lasted that long.
Hope the process all went well.
Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it
@@funjunkiegarage Absolutely. 👍
@@funjunkiegarage Have 327,000 on the original clutch as well. And it still hauls my 17' boat no problem.
Buy the Toyota version next time..lol Maybe you'll get 5 years out if it..😅Great video..👍
Yeah, next time, I'll get the Toyota version.
Thank you and I appreciate you supporting my channel
What year tundra is this?
This is a 2000 Tundra
Thank you
You're welcome.
Thanks for watching.
Спасибо за это полезное видео! Скоро я так же буду менять этот подшипник на своей Т100. 🤝👍
Awesome, thank you.
I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Whats the point of the notch on the bolt?
After you install the large nut, you stake it into the groove in the threaded part to lock it into place.
Hope that answers you question.
Thanks for watching and asking.
Center bearing from Rock Auto that is supposed to fit my truck does not. It has mounting arms at a weird angle and looks larger than the one on my 94 Pickup. Not sure what truck uses the part they sent. Luckily it was a close-out part so didn't cost much. They are refunding half my expenses and I can keep the part, although I don't know what I will do with it. Would cost too much to ship back and they won't cover that.
Wow, that's unusual, from my experience, to get a wrong part. At least you got something back.
What do u mean by staking it?
To put a dent in the nut, driving it into the void in the shaft. It keeps it from working loose.
Ok thanks
@joshuarhodes9022 you're welcome.
Thanks for watching.
will it cause a vibration when its bad?
It can cause a vibration. But not always.
A clunk or slop in the driveline can also be symptoms.
What light is that you using?
Harbor Freight rechargeable units.
www.harborfreight.com/500-lumen-led-rechargeable-magnetic-handheld-foldable-slim-bar-work-light-59536.html?campaignid=12189148308&adsetid=163074506155&product=59536&store=743&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwuG1BhCnARIsAFWBUC33Dp_qqXLfokV64yZx8UzI1hkYF72FfscVVBwZQRcxBWYK1bqNz3QaAvDQEALw_wcB
I have 2 of them on during the video
@@funjunkiegarage Cool. Thanks I need to get a new grease gun from HF and that is on the list now.
@@Methodical2 you're welcome.
I got a nice grease gun there too.
Buy a nachi bearing. Japanese stuff lasts a lot longer. Get one with a better abec rating
Awesome advice. Thank you for sharing your experience. I agree Japanese stuff lasts longer.
Much appreciate you watching and commenting.
I replaced mine with the anchor brand. Bad choice, it squeaked right away and got worse with mileage and wore out quickly. Tomorrow I will replace it with oem Toyota part.
Awe man, that sucks.
I'll keep an eye on this one.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
I appreciate you watching and commenting
Thank you for sharing this, I had some reserve thinking mine was gonna be stuck but that was not the case. One thing I saw in another persons UA-cam short ua-cam.com/users/shortsv0pA_Z7yhPk, they were saying there are similar center carriers with or without dust shields in addition to the driveshaft dust seals. And that the centers with their own dust shields cause premature wear. I noticed yours had dust shields on the bearing and the driveshaft, maybe that's why yours are going out faster than you'd like? I feel like they should last longer than 2 years in normal circumstances, idk what yours is obviously, but I figured since you helped me, there's my two cents. Hope it helps you. Ps, i got a Spicer one (Spicer 211750-1X), and it said Toyota on it and it didnt have a dust shield on the bearing itself.
Glad yours wasn't stuck.
I always appreciate the sharing of experiences and knowledge. I'll definitely check it out.
Many people have suggested the Spicer unit and I'll certainly be giving it a try.
Happy you enjoyed the video.
I appreciate you watching and sharing your information.
What year tundra is yours ? Thanks
It's a 2000
@@funjunkiegarage I've owned my 01 limited for 13 years now and have never replaced this carrier bearing so I am guessing it is original. It is torn so I plan on (trying) to replace it myself.
You make it look so easy. What is the point of staking it?
The point of me shaking it is to show excessive movement in the shaft. The point of the carrier bearing is to keep the driveshaft centered and solid (to a point) in the middle.
When they wear out, the drive shaft can move up & down with acceleration & deceleration as well as shake & shimmy around at steady speeds. Usually if it's real bad the shaft just rests at the bottom of the bearing housing when parked.
If your old one is original, it will say Aisin on the housing and have a timken bearing inside.
It is as easy as it looks in the video.
I'd spend the $$ on the Spicer brand unit.
Other viewers have said it's way better.
Honestly this Anchor brand unit I installed in this video is already failing.
Lastly, don't go mega buck on the solid kind with the solid polyurethane center. The vibration transfer is crazy unless your driveline is flawlessly perfect.
Really hope this helps.
Would love to hear how the project goes.
Cheers
@@funjunkiegarage ordered the spicer today. I don’t drive the truck much this time of year. Will me a project for before winter up here in WNY. Thanks !
@jeremyrobinson1458 nice, I'm going to order one also. You're welcome for sure.
Thanks for supporting my channel.
What are symptoms of this going out
It can cause a drive line vibration. Also a feeling of slop in the driveline. Can cause a clunk when going from drive to reverse.
You can move it up and down a bunch
Hope this helps.
@funjunkie4wdGarage thanks so much Shalom
You're welcome
Sir you put it on backwards you got to flip it around
Thank you
Shouldn’t that bearing last more than 27 months?
Yes it should.
1. He didn't mark the driveshaft and 2. He didn't put any type of support under either side when dropping it
1. I did mark the driveshaft/flange location by scratching it with a wrench. (I even put text on screen about the importance of marking it).
If you are referring to orientation of the 2 sections of the shaft, since I didn't remove it, it has no choice but to go back in the same orientation it was in. Hope this helps.
2. Why does it need supported?
It isn't hurting it to hang.
3. Thank you for watching and commenting
@funjunkiegarage what year truck is this? I've noticed some don't have the flange to make it this easy
This is a 2000 model year.
The one from Toyota cost $360
Thanks for that info.
I knew it was spendy.
Thanks for watching.
You put the bearing on backwards. Before you ask me why I know, it’s because I own a driveline shop.
Awesome. Please explain the difference.
I love to learn from my mistakes
Is it upside down?
He put the holes in the right position r u talking about the direction he put the bearing
@joshuarhodes9022 yes he's referring to direction, flip it over.