you may have heard this before, but you have an AMAZING cameraman (or woman). relatively steady shots, and no cutting back and forth like crazy. always focused on whatever you are talking about. it's part of what makes you one of my favorite (if not my favorite) DIY guys on UA-cam :) hope you are giving them their money's worth! keep up the good work!
I have watched at least 8 different videos on how to replace a toilet (my PVC flange cracked due to an uneven floor) and your video is by far the very best and most comprehensive I have seen. Thank you so much!
Great information, always appreciate you help. When installing toilets I do 2 additional steps. 1. When putting in the flange bolts, instead of the plastic holds I use a washer with a 1/4 20 nut. It tightens the bolts and makes it easier when lowering the bowl. It helps so you don't knock the bolts around. (especially if you're lowering a bowl and tank) 2. Once I have the wax ring and bowl set, before I tighten the bolts on the bowl I pour a bucket of water in the bowl. If you have any leak, it's best to see now before you got everything all together. Again, thank you for all that you do.
Great install! And thanks for the tips. If I were doing the job, I would have replaced the old water supply valve with a new quarter turn ball valve. The small extra cost and bit of extra work could save trouble later on. With the toilet lefted, you have good access, making the job easier than replacing later with the toilet in the way.
I've owned multiple rentals for over 20 years now, buying and selling several over the years. FIRST thing I do in a new purchase - replace all the water valves with 1/4-turn valves, SharkBite the last few cycles. Supply lines also. And all the smoke alarms, amazing how people allow their alarms to expire!
One argument I've heard to not seal your toilet to the floor is that if your flange is leaking you'll know. If it's sealed it will keep that leak invisible.
In many states it is required to caulk of silicone the bowl to the floor. You do not seal the rear so if the wax ring blows out...... the water will come out the back.
Thank you sir! I'm very grateful for your willingness to record all this. Especially your, "If you're not familiar with this," lead into explanations. That was a very gentle way to word those phrases for those of us (like me) who are very not familiar with any of it!
Always love your videos. My father always taught me use the right tool for the job. Channel-Locks have a purpose but it's not for perfectly fine nuts. That's the best way to mess up the nut. Otherwise, thank you for the demo. Only minutes before seeing your video I saw a toilet on sale on another channel and thought about buying one to change out mine. Kinda eerie 🥺
I've moved on from wax rings to the rubber rings which accommodate more heights and movement! Yes, significantly more expensive, at tends of dollars instead of dollars, but prevents leaks/smells and future repairs costing way more!
I went back to the wax ring due to the rubber/neoprene/closed cell foam gasket would cause the toilet bowl mount to crack at the flange bolts !, not good when you come back in to use the bathroom only to find the bowl is broken at the floor and water around the base !
I agree with b.powell3480. I just installed a Toto Drake toilet and tried the Fluidmaster Wax-Free foam and rubber seal. The instructions have you attaching it to the flange (using its ear-loops to slide over the flange bolts). However, the Toto Drake drain horn was too wide to fit through the Fluidmaster seal and ended up with the horn lip contacting and trying to compress the rubber seal face down. There was too much thickness with the rubber seal and the flange a standard 1/4" above the floor to get the Drake to sit flat on the floor. I ended up pulling the Drake back up and switching to an old standard wax ring. Putting the wax ring around the drain horn and sticking it to the toilet made it 100% sure the horn would be sealed all the way around. That Fluidmaster No-Wax ring I pulled from the unsuccessful first effort? It was all deformed and there was a good chance the deformation pulled part of the rubber seal into the path of the drain hole. Not good.
I’ve installed a few toilets in my day. I didn’t know about sealing toilets in apartment dwellings before, but then again, sealing toilets to the floor is a standard practice of mine. Excellent video Jeff. You did an excellent toilet install. 🇨🇦💝🙏. P.S. Happy Easter. 🐣
Lot of contractors will not use silicone on their toilet bowls, but I think it’s the best way I did it at my house, in the olden days we used to use plaster of Paris, and it all crumbles out and looks like crap. A year later, grout is no good, but that seems to be the preferred method of builders, I’ve had to smash toilet bowls to get them up and if they just use a little it won’t work, and then eventually crumbles and looks like crap, but hundred percent silicone keeps the whole moisture and pee and dirt out from under the bowl and it holds the bowl down very good. it’s the most sanitary way to do it and I think it looks the best
He states in another video that the silicone breaks down and leaks over time. I wouldn't know - but he mentioned that specifically and said that is why he orders the specialty spacers with the gaskets...... he can avoid using the silicone.
@@stresd111Same. I technically failed my final bathroom inspection because the toilet wasn’t caulked. Thankfully all I had to do to pass was text him a picture of the caulk before the end of the day. Phew.
Those old oval handled toilet shut-off valves are the worst pieces of el-cheapo garbage ever. Half the time the crummy zinc oval handle is crushed or completely missing.
When our power goes out we don't have running water because we're on a well system. We have to use this bucket technique to flush the toilet. So, whenever we know there is a storm coming and that our power will likely be out, we fill up 5 gallon buckets to store in the tubs. Then we have smaller buckets to get the water out of the 5 gallon buckets. I use a toilet lift jack and it lifts at an angle so water will say in the trap until it is lowered back down straight. But not everyone will be changing out toilets enough to need or want one of those. We were having to change out multiple toilets so it was worth it. Good to know about the flange height when its time to do the other bathrooms. All of them will be getting vinyl sheet so it will be low profile. I used a better-than-wax ring for the bathroom that we just renovated. I never knew they made caps for those shutoffs. That's good to know. All of the shutoffs in my house are new relatively new from when the winter storm ruptured all of the waterlines and we replaced them with PEX. We spent around $400 years ago on some Toto Drake toilets. They were worth it for how well they flush. Paid less years later for an ADA height Toto Drake and under $200 for a chair height Toto Entrada for our friend's house when we were staying there. I found that its good to cover the toilet bowl if you're going to be handling bolts and/or nuts over it. I have a tendency to drop things. LOL. I personally went with wingnuts for my tank bolts to make them easier to turn. Where I live, whenever we put on a new hose or something, we always put the open end in a bucket and turn the shutoff to let the water run into the bucket and clear any debris before we shut it back off and connect it to the fitting. My friend didn't do this with his kitchen sink and it clogged up the cartridges. He ended up having to get a new faucet (older one wasn't worth trying to get cartridges for). So, bottom line, even plumbers recommend clearing the lines a bit before connecting. I've had to take apart a flush valve assembly to clean it before. It's annoying. For the toilet connection, I like to get one that makes a click when it locks on so you know its on tight enough. For the toilet seat, I like to get bolts that slide in to rubber bungs. The bungs act as the nut to lock them in place and they do not move. I hate the standard kind that you constantly have to tighten and the seat keeps getting loose. I haven't had to tighten bolts once since using the kind with the bungs. If you want to be fancy, you can get a toilet with built in bidet sprayer or a bidet seat attachment that uses a tee to split off for supply. I got those split flange covers in chrome for my house. They are great. I should use the sealant underneath though. I've always heard from plumbers that you should leave a small unsealed part at the back of the toilet so that if the wax ring breaks and is leaking, it will come out the back and you will know. Otherwise, all the water stays under the toilet and rots the floor.
Very much enjoyed your video. At 25:50, it sounds like you say hydrostatic pressure is 50 psi, which doesn't sound right to me. From high school physics, I thought i remembered it was something like 0.5 psi per foot of water.
Love the videos! I have learned so much from you. Our next project is to replace a half wall going up our stairs into an open railing. So, I would love to see a half wall turned into an open railing how to.
Our Proflow toilets clog SUPER easy. Replacing both during our current remodel. One caused some damage when it clogged, the flap stuck and it overflowed. I have had to pull one, once and the other twice, to remove blockages. Never had that problem with any other toilet before. Willing to go Toto to make sure I don’t have to deal with it again. I have also had to repair/replace tank parts as well on both. Not pleased with the brand.
THANK YOU for the valve-Cap idea. Amazing, headed to the hardware store right now to get some (just what I needed for peace of mind in my semi-DIY reno-job.
Thanks Jeff for another great video! But I do have a quick question... I believe the manufacturers of Wax Rings usually recommend to apply the wax ring to the bottom of the toilet first and not the flange. How come you did it to the flange first?
Those wax rings with the plastic horn can cause water to splash UP from the water dump and onto the floor. The horn also narrows the dump route which could cause to clogging. Always use standard old fashioned wax rings.
Re: Lowering the amount of water in your toilet before removal. You can also wrap a plastic bag around the end of your vacuum cleaner hose and then put the vacuum cleaner on blow instead of suck. And blast the water down the toilet stack. That is, if you're concerned about some clear toilet water being vacuumed up by your wet vacuum cleaner and introducing bacteria to your pristine antiseptic vacuum cleaner canister.
I like to cover the toilet hold down bolt with Vaseline to keep it from rusting and then install the cap. I also like to make everything visible look pretty so the valve would be replaced and the ring would be tight to the line and probably chrome and the water line itself would have a nice loop to direct any leak to the floor as opposed to running down the line back to the valve. I also like to seal the around the toilet except for the back. Plastic toilet seat bolts are preferred but brass is ok too.
I enjoy the common sense approach to your renovation videos. I always caulk the toilet but it seems redundant when the supply line for the toilet comes up through the floor.
As for handy bucket flush hint, that's how my mother taught me to clean the toilet. You can scrub the original water ring line with full strength cleaning products. Then flush to rinse. 😁
I do maintenance on my apt complex and l replaced a lot of toilets and they all went smooth without all these precautionary steps. The most important thing not to do it is to over tighten your toilet bolts because you can easily damage your flange. I like to use thinset over tile under the toilet for better and strong adhesion.
Hi Jeff, great info. Wondering if you know of a toilet with excellent flushing ability, that attaches to the floor properly AND has straight sides. In terms of cleaning and maintenance, those curvy grooves are an ongoing headache.
27:47 clearly shows that you broke the seal between the floor and the water supply pipe. It was sealed and then you pushed the supply line down and created gaps at the water line. A small issue but without correcting you have left a place moisture(even from a sweating pipe) can get below the floor covering. This pic also highlights the SUB quality valve you used, as it didn't even shut off the water supply. I was surprised it even turned because the sub 5.00 valves tend to seize up before the time a new toilet is installed. I tossed out these and installed a better 1/4 turn shutoff that works much better. That said your video is great because of the detail and clear presentation.
I was going to ask same ? I always change from multi- turn to 1/4 turn when replacing toilets also, everything is new in that bathroom y not change shut off valve???
@tristanmartinez2667 no, 1/4 turn valves are built different than multi turn valves. There's no rubber gaskets to degrade, it's a ball valve that seals around a soft plastic material that basically doesn't erode or degrade like rubber does. That's been known for years
Just what I needed. I was trying to change out cracked nuts and washers. After fighting for nearly an hour to get the nuts off, and finessing one back on, the other hold-down posts popped out of the track. So I fiddled it back in, but every time I tried to tighten the nut, it turned and popped out again. And again. I figured there had to be a trick to keeping the post head in the track, so I was just looking for how the flange looks. Now I know how to install a toilet from the get-go (in case I still can't get this back together without having to run to the store for a new seal and bolts and taking the toilet out. Because it's Sunday and this little addendum to big plumbing job to move the washer into the bathroom is taking more time than replumbing the whole house with pex. Day of rest, indeed! :-D Thanks a lot!
Awesome n informative upload. Learned a lot from ur explanations even though have experience repairing my toilets, especially flange height; caulking; toilet tank pressure etc. Kudos. New subscriber because of this vid. Anticipating ur next one.. Peace
Very helpful. I had a leak from a second floor toilet into a soffit. Turns out the toilet flange was way below the new tile & the wax ring never made contact. Added a spacer and problem solved.
I'm sorry Jeff, but you're never going to convince me that after all that work in the beautiful bathroom that it's a good idea to leave the old multi-turn shut off valve and CPVC piping
@@HomeRenoVisionDIYyeah but it looks like an crappy 20 yr old valve. All that effort making a nice bathroom and skimping on a cheap valve that fits the newness of everything else is bonkers 😂
GOOD except I put the wax ring on the toilet seated around the opening instead of on the floor flange. If it’s over a little bit, it could shave the wax making the hole size smaller. I have removed toilets and have seen this. Instead of channel locks, I use a small crescent wrench to tighten the nuts on the toilet.
19:30 - I thought I made up that trick. Where’d you get it? Here’s the rest of that trick: when removing stubborn bolts or nuts, tighten slightly and they will break loose easier.
Use the deluxe wax ring with the black funnel. Almost guarantees the water has no reason to get close the outside edge of the upper part of the flange, ever. It's like $8. That's the same one I used in this video!
somewhat agree on the caulk,, however in my experience caulk always ends up wicking up moisture and breaking down, almost rather not use iit so it can dry properly underneath
Such a wonderfully detailed explanation for installing a toilet...i feel more able and encouraged to do it myself (DIM), thank you so much I love your channel my go to for DIY!!
I put nuts on the toilet studs to keep them from ever turning on the flange, along with the wax ring, I don't use the reinforced ones due it reducing the pipe diameter
The wax rings don't need reinforcing they just need to be thick enough. Those stupid plastic attachments cause more problems that didn't exist before we started using all the time.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIYThe porcelain hole is already tapered and sized to match the flange. You can clearly see an unnecessary reduction in diameter with the plastic "reinforcer".
if you have a toilet leak, that water isn't gonna be coming through the siliconed gap. That water is gonna go under the base moulding, edges of the room, and leak to the room below.
I see a few that fill the gap between the flange and the tile with silicone so that way it doesn't have a place to leak down through & with come out the toilet base if you haven't sealed the entire perimeter.
the point if setting a toilet correctly and secure is to make sure you don't get a leak. Cheers! Leaks don't happen randomly. they happen because of poor install practices.
I use a Stream Machine water gun, made for water play, to evacuate toilet bowls. It only requires a couple of cups of water. After shutting off the water supply and flushing the toilet, one intense shot into the toilet bowl in the direction of the siphon does it about as well as the gallon-and-half shown in the video. There is very little residual water left in the toilet plumbing, easily removed the with a sponge or rag.
I see a completely different drain system on Australian toilets but I'm not sure that would work here because they seem to use way more water to clear. They empty out the back into the wall and have a nice 4 point mount to the floor which means you never have the silly two bolt rocking issue or gap issue. I also see lots of failures of these stupid wax gaskets that have a plastic funnel attachment. Those funnels are unnecessary and completely stupid. They seem to be a trick to use less wax but end up causing splash back or hold waste. Or the wax is reacting to the plastic. I've had the replace like four of those within a couple years in rentals because they are rotted already.
Put caulk or silicone around the toilet and you will never know the gasket leaks until it rots the floor and the ceiling below is damaged or the toilet starts falling thru
Yes, I tell my clients I will silicone the toilets for them if they want but that I do not recommend it. Even though the chance of failure is very very slim, I'd want to know there is a leak instead of it being hidden for potentially years, creating more serious problems. If they still want it, I leave a 1" gap at the back where at least there's more of a chance of finding a leak.
Change out ALL your old valves to quarter turn. I don't leave any of the old multiturn valves in my house. They are so inexpensive I'm shocked you didn/t replace it.
I have seen other plumbers say not to silicone seal the tank to the floor so if the toilet leaks, you can see it, and it doesn't trap water under it, rotting the subfloor. I am not sure which is a better method. To seal, or not to seal?
I don't silicone around toilets, if they leak I want to know right away it's leaking instead of water buildup between the floor and the toilet rotting the flooring. Lowes $89
Same, as a service plumber I never seal the bottom of the toilet to the floor unless the owner requests it. Especially with a trailer like this where you wont see that the wax seal is broken because you are never in the crawl space below it. Silicone may look cleaner but I'd rather not need to rip up the entire bathroom because of rot in the sub-floor
Jeff, A pumice stone will remove those rust stains in the toilet. Walmart has them in the cleaning section! Great for hard water stain circles in a toilet too!
Hi, could you give more details about the toilet? What model number is the one you used here? What's your preference of proflo toilet you use? Love you videos and your detailed explanations.
wow, i Agree with you about the first part about the toilet. That's exactly right. You turn off the water supply. Sponge out the water out of the back of the tank and then take a 2 gallons of water, dump it down there and that's exactly right. Forget all that stuff that you add to toilets to make it gel. This. Is how it's done. And always disconnect from the water supply. I see you disconnected it from the toilet which is fine.But there's less chance of a leak.Disconnecting the water supply, then disconnecting the water supply from the toilet.If that makes any sense if you're reinstalling the same toilet.... You made me happy...ok, now im mad, I don't care what code or what piece of paper you're reading from but that If toilet should have been grouted with sanded grout that you used on your tile floor there. Why you ask? Because when you pack growl underneath a toilet. It sets up hard and makes a solid foundation for the toilet to sit on whereas silicone does not. It's also the grout matches how it's supposed to. If also silicone does not dry hard which leaves movement in the toilet. If that wasn't enough information how about this, When you pull a toilet it is way easier to clean grout with a margin trawl off instead of scraping silicon all day. Is there are 0 benefits of siliconing your toilet unless it IS lVP or wood, NOT ON TILE. Oh. Another reason if your toilet ever leaks and you did not leave an opening in the back, you will have longer time to notice that it's leaking if it was grouted. You would notice pretty much right away. Because growl is poorest, whether it's sanded. Or unsanded, so the water if the toilet is leaking, we'll show itself before a silicone toilet WILL..... The condo stuff that you're talking about at the end. There. That has nothing to do with water getting down to the 2nd floor if water is gonna get down to the 2nd floor it's gonna get down in between the wood or concrete sub floor and the toilet flange. It's not the toilet that you see in your bathroom. That you're siliconing the outside of it. That does nothing... And over time it's not gonna match color it's gonna crack and peel apart. Have a good Easter.
Thank you. My toilet keeps swirling in the bowl for about 2 minutes before ot will go down. We have changed all the parts in the toilet. Could it be the air vent or something. I'm at a loss but need to fix on my own due to finances. Do you have any suggestions? Would greatly appreciate any input you may have. Thank y ou so much for all the time you put in teaching us valuable information. God bless you sir
You should NEVER turn the tank bolts to tighten the tank to the bowl. This will distort the rubber washers. The bolts are slotted only so you can keep them from turning as you tighten the nuts below.
The vacuum next to you would of done a GREAT job of cleaning out the putty in the valve, the mess in the closet flange and the tile crap. Clean Clean Clean all new areas and surfaces so your not cleaning the crap out of the new toilet flush valve?? Thats how I do it in the USA, lol. Good info thanks.
My hero ... no shortcuts ... then you use a utility knife and channel locks to tighten the bowl-to-tank bolts! 🤣😂🤣 JUST KIDDING - JUST KIDDING! In our new-to-us home, I have a toilet that I expect to see the exact issues you have covered with this project where the toilet was installed over new tile flooring. I always appreciate your videos and appreciate your thorough and detailed instructions and advice! Thank you!!!
Just wanted to say that I randomly found your videos a while back just randomly. I watched the shed ones. I am so glad that I did because I was planning to build a tree house for my children (10'x12') and had already drew up my own plans and everything. I learned so much in your shed videos that I was able to apply to my own plans and I know now that it'll be a lot more durable, but also a lot safer. So thanks for that. Also planned to replace our toilets soon so this was perfect timing!
@@stresd111 Hey I seen your comment. Would I be able to put a cap on a shut off valve if I cannot turn the water supply to the room or the main. I’m currently changing my gate valves to ball valves but waiting for the city to come turn my water off. Not thinking I took my toilet off the wax ring and disconnected it only depending on the aged shut off valve to stay closed. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
I really enjoy watching your videos. You always provide tips of the trade that require years of experience to learn, which in turn helps us DIY'ers properly do the job. Thank you so much for your videos.
I set the bowl down but don't tighten it to the floor just yet. I put the tank on next and then slightly adjust to whole toilet left/right so it's even with the wall. It's difficult to get the bowl exactly 90 degrees from the wall and then the home owner complains. The last step is tightening the bowl to the floor.
19:30 - I thought I made up that trick. Where’d _you_ get it? This trick actually works on any type of threaded application. Even the cap to your plastic milk jug.Here’s the rest of that trick: when removing stubborn bolts or nuts, tighten slightly and they will break loose easier. 22:21 - One of the few cases where it’s better to use your pliers backward is when attempting to remove a contrary cap on a can of PVC glue to keep from deforming the cap _and_ the can!
you may have heard this before, but you have an AMAZING cameraman (or woman). relatively steady shots, and no cutting back and forth like crazy. always focused on whatever you are talking about. it's part of what makes you one of my favorite (if not my favorite) DIY guys on UA-cam :)
hope you are giving them their money's worth! keep up the good work!
I have watched at least 8 different videos on how to replace a toilet (my PVC flange cracked due to an uneven floor) and your video is by far the very best and most comprehensive I have seen. Thank you so much!
Great information, always appreciate you help. When installing toilets I do 2 additional steps. 1. When putting in the flange bolts, instead of the plastic holds I use a washer with a 1/4 20 nut. It tightens the bolts and makes it easier when lowering the bowl. It helps so you don't knock the bolts around. (especially if you're lowering a bowl and tank) 2. Once I have the wax ring and bowl set, before I tighten the bolts on the bowl I pour a bucket of water in the bowl. If you have any leak, it's best to see now before you got everything all together.
Again, thank you for all that you do.
Great install! And thanks for the tips. If I were doing the job, I would have replaced the old water supply valve with a new quarter turn ball valve. The small extra cost and bit of extra work could save trouble later on. With the toilet lefted, you have good access, making the job easier than replacing later with the toilet in the way.
You said "It's the small things that bite you" so true and why I like your informative videos. Nice job.
I've owned multiple rentals for over 20 years now, buying and selling several over the years. FIRST thing I do in a new purchase - replace all the water valves with 1/4-turn valves, SharkBite the last few cycles. Supply lines also. And all the smoke alarms, amazing how people allow their alarms to expire!
One argument I've heard to not seal your toilet to the floor is that if your flange is leaking you'll know. If it's sealed it will keep that leak invisible.
In many states it is required to caulk of silicone the bowl to the floor. You do not seal the rear so if the wax ring blows out...... the water will come out the back.
Thank you sir! I'm very grateful for your willingness to record all this. Especially your, "If you're not familiar with this," lead into explanations. That was a very gentle way to word those phrases for those of us (like me) who are very not familiar with any of it!
I like to add a board behind the tank for added support. Some members of the family like to recline while handling their business
I never do any of these things on these videos I just love watching you I watch this UA-cam channel for hours
cheers!
Always love your videos.
My father always taught me use the right tool for the job. Channel-Locks have a purpose but it's not for perfectly fine nuts. That's the best way to mess up the nut.
Otherwise, thank you for the demo. Only minutes before seeing your video I saw a toilet on sale on another channel and thought about buying one to change out mine. Kinda eerie 🥺
I've moved on from wax rings to the rubber rings which accommodate more heights and movement! Yes, significantly more expensive, at tends of dollars instead of dollars, but prevents leaks/smells and future repairs costing way more!
I went back to the wax ring due to the rubber/neoprene/closed cell foam gasket would cause the toilet bowl mount to crack at the flange bolts !, not good when you come back in to use the bathroom only to find the bowl is broken at the floor and water around the base !
@@b.powell3480use two wax rings
I agree with b.powell3480. I just installed a Toto Drake toilet and tried the Fluidmaster Wax-Free foam and rubber seal.
The instructions have you attaching it to the flange (using its ear-loops to slide over the flange bolts).
However, the Toto Drake drain horn was too wide to fit through the Fluidmaster seal and ended up with the horn lip contacting and trying to compress the rubber seal face down. There was too much thickness with the rubber seal and the flange a standard 1/4" above the floor to get the Drake to sit flat on the floor.
I ended up pulling the Drake back up and switching to an old standard wax ring. Putting the wax ring around the drain horn and sticking it to the toilet made it 100% sure the horn would be sealed all the way around.
That Fluidmaster No-Wax ring I pulled from the unsuccessful first effort? It was all deformed and there was a good chance the deformation pulled part of the rubber seal into the path of the drain hole. Not good.
I’ve installed a few toilets in my day. I didn’t know about sealing toilets in apartment dwellings before, but then again, sealing toilets to the floor is a standard practice of mine. Excellent video Jeff. You did an excellent toilet install. 🇨🇦💝🙏. P.S. Happy Easter. 🐣
Lot of contractors will not use silicone on their toilet bowls, but I think it’s the best way I did it at my house, in the olden days we used to use plaster of Paris, and it all crumbles out and looks like crap. A year later, grout is no good, but that seems to be the preferred method of builders, I’ve had to smash toilet bowls to get them up and if they just use a little it won’t work, and then eventually crumbles and looks like crap, but hundred percent silicone keeps the whole moisture and pee and dirt out from under the bowl and it holds the bowl down very good. it’s the most sanitary way to do it and I think it looks the best
Your plaster of paris reminded me I once pulled up a toilet to find that instead of a wax ring they had used plumbers putty. Omg.
He states in another video that the silicone breaks down and leaks over time. I wouldn't know - but he mentioned that specifically and said that is why he orders the specialty spacers with the gaskets...... he can avoid using the silicone.
@@theelusive8058 100% real silicone last a really long time but it’s hard to work with But it’s all I use the latex stuff stinks
silicone is code where I am
@@stresd111Same. I technically failed my final bathroom inspection because the toilet wasn’t caulked. Thankfully all I had to do to pass was text him a picture of the caulk before the end of the day. Phew.
Always replace any multi turn valve with a quarter turn valve, period!!
Those old oval handled toilet shut-off valves are the worst pieces of el-cheapo garbage ever. Half the time the crummy zinc oval handle is crushed or completely missing.
Even my newly built home had these oval valves! Makes sense for how cheaply built the contractors do it.
When our power goes out we don't have running water because we're on a well system. We have to use this bucket technique to flush the toilet. So, whenever we know there is a storm coming and that our power will likely be out, we fill up 5 gallon buckets to store in the tubs. Then we have smaller buckets to get the water out of the 5 gallon buckets.
I use a toilet lift jack and it lifts at an angle so water will say in the trap until it is lowered back down straight. But not everyone will be changing out toilets enough to need or want one of those. We were having to change out multiple toilets so it was worth it.
Good to know about the flange height when its time to do the other bathrooms. All of them will be getting vinyl sheet so it will be low profile. I used a better-than-wax ring for the bathroom that we just renovated.
I never knew they made caps for those shutoffs. That's good to know. All of the shutoffs in my house are new relatively new from when the winter storm ruptured all of the waterlines and we replaced them with PEX.
We spent around $400 years ago on some Toto Drake toilets. They were worth it for how well they flush. Paid less years later for an ADA height Toto Drake and under $200 for a chair height Toto Entrada for our friend's house when we were staying there.
I found that its good to cover the toilet bowl if you're going to be handling bolts and/or nuts over it. I have a tendency to drop things. LOL.
I personally went with wingnuts for my tank bolts to make them easier to turn.
Where I live, whenever we put on a new hose or something, we always put the open end in a bucket and turn the shutoff to let the water run into the bucket and clear any debris before we shut it back off and connect it to the fitting. My friend didn't do this with his kitchen sink and it clogged up the cartridges. He ended up having to get a new faucet (older one wasn't worth trying to get cartridges for). So, bottom line, even plumbers recommend clearing the lines a bit before connecting. I've had to take apart a flush valve assembly to clean it before. It's annoying.
For the toilet connection, I like to get one that makes a click when it locks on so you know its on tight enough.
For the toilet seat, I like to get bolts that slide in to rubber bungs. The bungs act as the nut to lock them in place and they do not move. I hate the standard kind that you constantly have to tighten and the seat keeps getting loose. I haven't had to tighten bolts once since using the kind with the bungs.
If you want to be fancy, you can get a toilet with built in bidet sprayer or a bidet seat attachment that uses a tee to split off for supply.
I got those split flange covers in chrome for my house. They are great. I should use the sealant underneath though. I've always heard from plumbers that you should leave a small unsealed part at the back of the toilet so that if the wax ring breaks and is leaking, it will come out the back and you will know. Otherwise, all the water stays under the toilet and rots the floor.
Could be an interesting video - how to replace gaskets in an old valve and where to buy them...
Probably easier to shut the water off, pull the old stop-valve off, and replace it with a new one for under $10
Very much enjoyed your video. At 25:50, it sounds like you say hydrostatic pressure is 50 psi, which doesn't sound right to me. From high school physics, I thought i remembered it was something like 0.5 psi per foot of water.
Love the videos! I have learned so much from you. Our next project is to replace a half wall going up our stairs into an open railing. So, I would love to see a half wall turned into an open railing how to.
Our Proflow toilets clog SUPER easy. Replacing both during our current remodel. One caused some damage when it clogged, the flap stuck and it overflowed. I have had to pull one, once and the other twice, to remove blockages. Never had that problem with any other toilet before. Willing to go Toto to make sure I don’t have to deal with it again. I have also had to repair/replace tank parts as well on both. Not pleased with the brand.
Toto -smart thinking. I also prefer a higher rate flush.
Sterling makes a good toilet
THANK YOU for the valve-Cap idea. Amazing, headed to the hardware store right now to get some (just what I needed for peace of mind in my semi-DIY reno-job.
Thank for explaining everything! All the side tidbits are helpful also!
Excellent walk thru on the proper way to install. I learned so much !
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Jeff for another great video! But I do have a quick question... I believe the manufacturers of Wax Rings usually recommend to apply the wax ring to the bottom of the toilet first and not the flange. How come you did it to the flange first?
Those wax rings with the plastic horn can cause water to splash UP from the water dump and onto the floor. The horn also narrows the dump route which could cause to clogging. Always use standard old fashioned wax rings.
Re: Lowering the amount of water in your toilet before removal.
You can also wrap a plastic bag around the end of your vacuum cleaner hose and then put the vacuum cleaner on blow instead of suck. And blast the water down the toilet stack.
That is, if you're concerned about some clear toilet water being vacuumed up by your wet vacuum cleaner and introducing bacteria to your pristine antiseptic vacuum cleaner canister.
This guy is amazing. I'm a journeyman and master plumber and I didnt know that trick to empty toilet water. I always used my shop vac
Caps with a rubber washer work also great for overnight / temporary shut off and take less time.
Excellent advice in this video! Thanks
I like to cover the toilet hold down bolt with Vaseline to keep it from rusting and then install the cap. I also like to make everything visible look pretty so the valve would be replaced and the ring would be tight to the line and probably chrome and the water line itself would have a nice loop to direct any leak to the floor as opposed to running down the line back to the valve. I also like to seal the around the toilet except for the back. Plastic toilet seat bolts are preferred but brass is ok too.
I enjoy the common sense approach to your renovation videos. I always caulk the toilet but it seems redundant when the supply line for the toilet comes up through the floor.
I'm going to install my new toilets correctly just so I don't disappoint this man.
Very good job explaining how to stack the floor flanges.
Thanks so much.
As for handy bucket flush hint, that's how my mother taught me to clean the toilet. You can scrub the original water ring line with full strength cleaning products. Then flush to rinse. 😁
No BIDET?????? Can’t live without a bidet!!!!
Can't thank you enough for this DIY video, just in case I need to replace my toilet(s)!
I do maintenance on my apt complex and l replaced a lot of toilets and they all went smooth without all these precautionary steps. The most important thing not to do it is to over tighten your toilet bolts because you can easily damage your flange. I like to use thinset over tile under the toilet for better and strong adhesion.
Wht didn't you use a 1/4 turn valve
Hi Jeff, great info. Wondering if you know of a toilet with excellent flushing ability, that attaches to the floor properly AND has straight sides. In terms of cleaning and maintenance, those curvy grooves are an ongoing headache.
The water level being so low in that bowl lets me know it'll have more skid marks than runway 31 at LaGuardia.
Yes indeed and that's why the round toilet is my most favorite. It cleanse well exclamation mark and it takes less room in your bathroom
Want the brass bolts heads to last longer in tank?.... I use some of the wax ring to coat the bolt heads.
ALL THAT BEAUTIFUL WORK AND KNOWLEDGE TO DO AN EXCELLENT JOB - AND YOU DONT HAVE A SCREWDRIVER !!
27:47 clearly shows that you broke the seal between the floor and the water supply pipe. It was sealed and then you pushed the supply line down and created gaps at the water line.
A small issue but without correcting you have left a place moisture(even from a sweating pipe) can get below the floor covering.
This pic also highlights the SUB quality valve you used, as it didn't even shut off the water supply. I was surprised it even turned because the sub 5.00 valves tend to seize up before the time a new toilet is installed. I tossed out these and installed a better 1/4 turn shutoff that works much better.
That said your video is great because of the detail and clear presentation.
Why didn't you spend $5 for a new quarter turn valve, you know better it's money in the bank
No doubt all that work then reuse old crappy valve.
Dang you beat me to this comment 😅
I was going to ask same ? I always change from multi- turn to 1/4 turn when replacing toilets also, everything is new in that bathroom y not change shut off valve???
Waste time and money to change a valve that will never be used and the same thing will happen. Meh.
@tristanmartinez2667 no, 1/4 turn valves are built different than multi turn valves. There's no rubber gaskets to degrade, it's a ball valve that seals around a soft plastic material that basically doesn't erode or degrade like rubber does. That's been known for years
Thanks again. Always learn something new every time I watch your videos.
Just what I needed. I was trying to change out cracked nuts and washers. After fighting for nearly an hour to get the nuts off, and finessing one back on, the other hold-down posts popped out of the track. So I fiddled it back in, but every time I tried to tighten the nut, it turned and popped out again. And again. I figured there had to be a trick to keeping the post head in the track, so I was just looking for how the flange looks. Now I know how to install a toilet from the get-go (in case I still can't get this back together without having to run to the store for a new seal and bolts and taking the toilet out. Because it's Sunday and this little addendum to big plumbing job to move the washer into the bathroom is taking more time than replumbing the whole house with pex. Day of rest, indeed! :-D Thanks a lot!
Thanks for showing us how it’s done. Very helpful.
A toilet that moves and has a wax less seal will not leak! It’s the beauty of not using wax. Only use wax on concrete slab foundation
FYI Jeff for every foot of water is .485 psi or half a pound.
The DANCO Perfect Seal works from 1/2" above to 1-1/2" below. available at every Home Depot I have been to.
Awesome n informative upload. Learned a lot from ur explanations even though have experience repairing my toilets, especially flange height; caulking; toilet tank pressure etc. Kudos. New subscriber because of this vid. Anticipating ur next one.. Peace
Very helpful. I had a leak from a second floor toilet into a soffit. Turns out the toilet flange was way below the new tile & the wax ring never made contact. Added a spacer and problem solved.
I'm sorry Jeff, but you're never going to convince me that after all that work in the beautiful bathroom that it's a good idea to leave the old multi-turn shut off valve and CPVC piping
no worries. I changed out the guts of that valve so it is all new. Cheers!
Ball valve
@@HomeRenoVisionDIYyeah but it looks like an crappy 20 yr old valve. All that effort making a nice bathroom and skimping on a cheap valve that fits the newness of everything else is bonkers 😂
Beautiful work, but it was good if you could have replaced the old multiple turn valve with a new quarter turn valve.
I knew you were Canadian when I heard the way you pronounce the words “process” and “out.” Thanks for the walkthrough and the thorough explanations.
you are a freaking boss. no frills and no arrogance. thanks for sharing
GOOD except I put the wax ring on the toilet seated around the opening instead of on the floor flange. If it’s over a little bit, it could shave the wax making the hole size smaller. I have removed toilets and have seen this. Instead of channel locks, I use a small crescent wrench to tighten the nuts on the toilet.
19:30 - I thought I made up that trick. Where’d you get it? Here’s the rest of that trick: when removing stubborn bolts or nuts, tighten slightly and they will break loose easier.
21:50 Why didn't you replace the valve with a 1/4 turn valve?
Use the deluxe wax ring with the black funnel. Almost guarantees the water has no reason to get close the outside edge of the upper part of the flange, ever. It's like $8.
That's the same one I used in this video!
I had to use a level on top of the bowl and tile shims underneath before grouting to ensure mine were perfectly level.
somewhat agree on the caulk,, however in my experience caulk always ends up wicking up moisture and breaking down, almost rather not use iit so it can dry properly underneath
In UK it would be 1/2”
3/8” are rare
I honestly think UK method of coupling toilet is far more straightforward.
Such a wonderfully detailed explanation for installing a toilet...i feel more able and encouraged to do it myself (DIM), thank you so much I love your channel my go to for DIY!!
I put nuts on the toilet studs to keep them from ever turning on the flange, along with the wax ring, I don't use the reinforced ones due it reducing the pipe diameter
The wax rings don't need reinforcing they just need to be thick enough. Those stupid plastic attachments cause more problems that didn't exist before we started using all the time.
the reinforced ones still have a larger diameter than that if the trap in the bowl. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIYThe porcelain hole is already tapered and sized to match the flange. You can clearly see an unnecessary reduction in diameter with the plastic "reinforcer".
if you have a toilet leak, that water isn't gonna be coming through the siliconed gap. That water is gonna go under the base moulding, edges of the room, and leak to the room below.
I see a few that fill the gap between the flange and the tile with silicone so that way it doesn't have a place to leak down through & with come out the toilet base if you haven't sealed the entire perimeter.
the point if setting a toilet correctly and secure is to make sure you don't get a leak. Cheers! Leaks don't happen randomly. they happen because of poor install practices.
Great job. Thank You for showing the correct way
I use a Stream Machine water gun, made for water play, to evacuate toilet bowls. It only requires a couple of cups of water. After shutting off the water supply and flushing the toilet, one intense shot into the toilet bowl in the direction of the siphon does it about as well as the gallon-and-half shown in the video. There is very little residual water left in the toilet plumbing, easily removed the with a sponge or rag.
I see a completely different drain system on Australian toilets but I'm not sure that would work here because they seem to use way more water to clear.
They empty out the back into the wall and have a nice 4 point mount to the floor which means you never have the silly two bolt rocking issue or gap issue.
I also see lots of failures of these stupid wax gaskets that have a plastic funnel attachment. Those funnels are unnecessary and completely stupid. They seem to be a trick to use less wax but end up causing splash back or hold waste. Or the wax is reacting to the plastic. I've had the replace like four of those within a couple years in rentals because they are rotted already.
Put caulk or silicone around the toilet and you will never know the gasket leaks until it rots the floor and the ceiling below is damaged or the toilet starts falling thru
Yes, I tell my clients I will silicone the toilets for them if they want but that I do not recommend it. Even though the chance of failure is very very slim, I'd want to know there is a leak instead of it being hidden for potentially years, creating more serious problems. If they still want it, I leave a 1" gap at the back where at least there's more of a chance of finding a leak.
I'm 68, I just learned something. Thanks 👍
Change out ALL your old valves to quarter turn. I don't leave any of the old multiturn valves in my house. They are so inexpensive I'm shocked you didn/t replace it.
I have seen other plumbers say not to silicone seal the tank to the floor so if the toilet leaks, you can see it, and it doesn't trap water under it, rotting the subfloor. I am not sure which is a better method. To seal, or not to seal?
I don't silicone around toilets, if they leak I want to know right away it's leaking instead of water buildup between the floor and the toilet rotting the flooring. Lowes $89
Same, as a service plumber I never seal the bottom of the toilet to the floor unless the owner requests it. Especially with a trailer like this where you wont see that the wax seal is broken because you are never in the crawl space below it. Silicone may look cleaner but I'd rather not need to rip up the entire bathroom because of rot in the sub-floor
Contrac is another good builder brand (Canadian). Can get pretty much all fixtures from them. Toilet will set you back around $200
You have the Best Videos and information.
Jeff, A pumice stone will remove those rust stains in the toilet. Walmart has them in the cleaning section! Great for hard water stain circles in a toilet too!
If you remove a ground floor toilet to repurpose the room. What is the best way to cover over the waste hole and tidy up the water pipes?
Hi, could you give more details about the toilet? What model number is the one you used here? What's your preference of proflo toilet you use? Love you videos and your detailed explanations.
Never heard the grout idea but I but thin small plastic shims made for toilet installs You can trim off excess before silicone caulk….
wow, i Agree with you about the first part about the toilet. That's exactly right. You turn off the water supply. Sponge out the water out of the back of the tank and then take a 2 gallons of water, dump it down there and that's exactly right. Forget all that stuff that you add to toilets to make it gel. This.
Is how it's done. And always disconnect from the water supply. I see you disconnected it from the toilet which is fine.But there's less chance of a leak.Disconnecting the water supply, then disconnecting the water supply from the toilet.If that makes any sense if you're reinstalling the same toilet.... You made me happy...ok, now im mad, I don't care what code or what piece of paper you're reading from but that If toilet should have been grouted with sanded grout that you used on your tile floor there. Why you ask? Because when you pack growl underneath a toilet. It sets up hard and makes a solid foundation for the toilet to sit on whereas silicone does not. It's also the grout matches how it's supposed to. If also silicone does not dry hard which leaves movement in the toilet. If that wasn't enough information how about this, When you pull a toilet it is way easier to clean grout with a margin trawl off instead of scraping silicon all day. Is there are 0 benefits of siliconing your toilet unless it IS lVP or wood, NOT ON TILE. Oh. Another reason if your toilet ever leaks and you did not leave an opening in the back, you will have longer time to notice that it's leaking if it was grouted. You would notice pretty much right away. Because growl is poorest, whether it's sanded. Or unsanded, so the water if the toilet is leaking, we'll show itself before a silicone toilet WILL..... The condo stuff that you're talking about at the end. There. That has nothing to do with water getting down to the 2nd floor if water is gonna get down to the 2nd floor it's gonna get down in between the wood or concrete sub floor and the toilet flange. It's not the toilet that you see in your bathroom. That you're siliconing the outside of it. That does nothing... And over time it's not gonna match color it's gonna crack and peel apart. Have a good Easter.
Holy shit what a load of dung
You can use a plunger to remove the water from the bowl too.
I have never come across a 1/2” shut off yet. I can’t believe the stores sell that many except to people grabbing the wrong toilet supply.
Thank you, Jeff. Very informative video. Love your channel!
Thank you. My toilet keeps swirling in the bowl for about 2 minutes before ot will go down. We have changed all the parts in the toilet. Could it be the air vent or something. I'm at a loss but need to fix on my own due to finances. Do you have any suggestions? Would greatly appreciate any input you may have. Thank y ou so much for all the time you put in teaching us valuable information. God bless you sir
Amazing, I feel like I'm a professional plumber after watching your video, sir. Thank you.
Great explanations , keep up the good work
I can see why you have over 3 MILLION FOLLOWERS !!! Great Job !!
My wife is soooo going to the thank you, or think I am a genius, to put that cap on the supply line. I did not know that tip. Thank you ! ! !
You should NEVER turn the tank bolts to tighten the tank to the bowl. This will distort the rubber washers. The bolts are slotted only so you can keep them from turning as you tighten the nuts below.
The vacuum next to you would of done a GREAT job of cleaning out the putty in the valve, the mess in the closet flange and the tile crap. Clean Clean Clean all new areas and surfaces so your not cleaning the crap out of the new toilet flush valve?? Thats how I do it in the USA, lol. Good info thanks.
My hero ... no shortcuts ... then you use a utility knife and channel locks to tighten the bowl-to-tank bolts! 🤣😂🤣 JUST KIDDING - JUST KIDDING! In our new-to-us home, I have a toilet that I expect to see the exact issues you have covered with this project where the toilet was installed over new tile flooring. I always appreciate your videos and appreciate your thorough and detailed instructions and advice! Thank you!!!
I love your channel. It's so easy to learn from you ❤
Love all your videos.
But if my water main is turned off, and the toilet is out, I'm changing that multi turn stop valve with a quarter turn.
25:48 "Hydrostatic pressure is 50 psi per inch"
No I don't think so. It's 0.036 PSI per inch.
28 inches of water is roughly 1 PSI.
I prefer the UK style exposed wastepipe. Leaks are visible!
Just wanted to say that I randomly found your videos a while back just randomly. I watched the shed ones. I am so glad that I did because I was planning to build a tree house for my children (10'x12') and had already drew up my own plans and everything. I learned so much in your shed videos that I was able to apply to my own plans and I know now that it'll be a lot more durable, but also a lot safer. So thanks for that. Also planned to replace our toilets soon so this was perfect timing!
WOW, I did exactly what u said with the cap but i used a Rubber washer on the inside of the cap.
Youre awesome homie. Thanks for these videos.
good for you as they will often..unlike what he says leak as they are a running thread... 40 yrs plumbing with a TQ... if in doubt ask a real plumber
@@stresd111 Hey I seen your comment. Would I be able to put a cap on a shut off valve if I cannot turn the water supply to the room or the main. I’m currently changing my gate valves to ball valves but waiting for the city to come turn my water off. Not thinking I took my toilet off the wax ring and disconnected it only depending on the aged shut off valve to stay closed. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
You’re wall paper matches nicely
grout idea is nice, may prevent toilet bottom to crack on uneven floor
I really enjoy watching your videos. You always provide tips of the trade that require years of experience to learn, which in turn helps us DIY'ers properly do the job. Thank you so much for your videos.
I set the bowl down but don't tighten it to the floor just yet. I put the tank on next and then slightly adjust to whole toilet left/right so it's even with the wall. It's difficult to get the bowl exactly 90 degrees from the wall and then the home owner complains. The last step is tightening the bowl to the floor.
19:30 - I thought I made up that trick. Where’d _you_ get it? This trick actually works on any type of threaded application. Even the cap to your plastic milk jug.Here’s the rest of that trick: when removing stubborn bolts or nuts, tighten slightly and they will break loose easier.
22:21 - One of the few cases where it’s better to use your pliers backward is when attempting to remove a contrary cap on a can of PVC glue to keep from deforming the cap _and_ the can!