This video is awesome.I wasn't getting any spark to the engine and originally thought it was the fuel pump, turned out to be fine and I just replaced my distributor and ignition coil and I have to reconnect the wiring on my 1995 Chevy Tahoe LS 4x4. Set up looks almost identical under the hood!
@@FreshKicks4545 no, the timing adjustment twists the entire top of the distributor itself. The cap bolts onto the top of that, so as long as your adjustment bolt is tightened down well then taking the cap off and putting it back on won't affect the timing at all.
I wondered that. Why ever take any spark plug wires off unless you absolutely have to? I figure I may have to take the coil wire loose because it's shorter, but idk yet.
Joe great video dude. Did the same on my 1990 Chevy V1500 Suburban. I felt the same way as the chorus singing "Hallelujah" in your vid. LOL!! Have a good one bro.
This was a very helpful (and entertaining) video- thank you! Appreciate folks that walk through the whole process (even if they fast forward) so you can physically see start to finish.
Thanks Joe, lol on the video editing, your tutorial still holds up. Your video helped me tremendously on troubleshooting my 93 Chevy Silverado. Thumbs up on your numbering system, whatever it takes! I’ve changed the spark plug wires before, I know the damn firing order, it’s still a pain in the ass. 👍 I hit the subscribe button, keep up the good work. AFJUAN
wow Im really greatful for your time and help!! you did perfect! no long stupid intro and then some jerk taking in huge detail abot something. you were right to the point and im subscribing. you actually were funny too! thanks man
Dielectric grease is for the actual electrical connections the packet that comes with it is thermal paste it goes on the heat sink on the rear of the unit. Just in case anyone loses theirs thought I’d throw this up.
Thanks for info Joe. Note; I always put a rag over carb/throt bod when handling small parts (screws) over engine. It has saved me more than 1 headache.
I know you're right I had one hit the rag on a tbi just destined to bypass through the idle air control cavity! They're drawn to that particular area every chance they get!
Good video, however cover the throttle body, dont take plug wires off cap, and use die electric grease for the conections, and the white stuff is NOT grease it is heat sink compound.
@Joe Littell I had just changed this item too and was thinking it was the starter coil come to find out it was the same item i replaced the year before
That was the best tutorial of how to replace the ICM!!! By the way, I have a Chevy silverado 1993 350, i need to buy some parts and sensors, please can you tell me where i can buy those things??. Please send me a link, because I am from Chile and here they don´t have spare parts for this truck. thanks!!
Great video. You’re actually pretty funny, because you’re just funny enough while seeming to know what you’re talking about automotively, and not trying to worry about being funny. It’s a delicate balance. It’s a balmy 17*F outside right now and I must do this very task now. This may be the last post I make before losing my finger tips to exposure. 🤞🏼 🤙🏼🖕🏼🤟🏼🤘🏼👍🏼
do you see the built up carbon in the center of that rotor,the cap is probably burned up too,when you see carbon on ignition parts ,just replace them,they will allow high voltage to jump and drive you nuts,its the little things that get you on a tuneup
Thank you for the informative film. When you attached a new Ignition control module, did you lubricate all the female connectors? I've read on Amazon - all female connectors on the module (which are 2) should be lubricated, but some people including this film seems lubricate only the back of the module and don't put any of Silicon Heat Compound into connectors. If you put any of that compound into connectors how much did you put, if you could tell. Thank you again.
A little late I'm sure but this grease is good for all electrical connections. Just a dab will do, often what's left on your finger smeared in the plug is enough for me. Hope this helps someone!
@@therealbenavis I also always write if know smth regardless time posted, bcs other people read and that is how we learn. Actually I still don't have a certain answer for that lubricant. I've learned and do it on the regular bases to apply a bit on connectors, though first worried, since it is a dielectric, but everything works fine. But what I'm not sure about it is application of Silicon Heat Compound on the back of the Module in the sense how much to apply. 1 year ago I didn't apply at all, since read somewhere that in 2003 Chevy Cavalier there is some kind of internal heat think in that Module and you don't need to apply any heat grease. Then I forgot about it and though I need to apply some, so recently, like 2 weeks ago I applied on the back of the Module like 2 tsp. Everything works fine, but the back of the Module looked weird (like a buttered sandwich). I though to open again and remove some (since everyone write it should be very thin layer of thermal grease, but I've also came across statements that it won't hurt, and better to worry if it is not enough). We are in TX, so I decided to continue the experiment and drive w/that amount of Silicon Heat Compound in the Module. Thank you for your comment and concern.
Do not use di electric silicone grease use heat sink compound, its usually opaque white This compound is a conductor of heat to the heat sink the module is attached to . for heat transference away from the transistors in the module .
@@FreshKicks4545 Not at the time, but on another note check your MAP sensor to make sure it isn't clogged with carbon if you truck is having start issues
Don,t think u need to pop off the plug wires, just move the cap off to the side ,perhaps take off one or two plug wires is all. But your quality and closeness of coverage is very good and self explanitory . thanks. My ,92 silverado lost power and shut down in heavy traffic ,realy bad timing,. I replaced my coil and control module . Course the truck is 31 years old along with the electronics so what could u expect ,no big surprise . I,ll be checking any and all underhood wiring as well for cracking or abrasion
So far I,ve replaced the IAC sensor, MAP sensor, O2 sensor , Ignition control module ,dist. cap +rotor , 8mm wires and plugs ,Michelin Defender tires and in the midst of installing an MSD system + MSD super coil . Along with a TBI spacer and injector spacer ( riser ). It,s a bit of money ,but it,l run far better than stock ( 31 yrs. old ) , better fuel economy and dead dependable . It,s paid for, better than spending $60 k on a new truck .
I have a 1994 chevy 1500 with a 5.7L. Its been having major acceleration issues on the freeway at night at 70+MPH. Ive spend a total of about $1300 so far trying to figure out what the hell is wrong with it. I have a strong feeling its the ICM and I could have saved $1200 if I just knew that to start. Ive replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel injectors, EGR valve, TPS sensor, battery and O2 sensor so far and its still acting up on the freeway at night. Its not the headlights cause I drive it with them on in the day on the freeway just to be sure. If its not the ICM then its got to be the voltage regulator, otherwise I guess Ill douse the truck in gas and just give it a viking funeral LOL which sucks cause it drives like a beast during the day LOL, If I keep it under 60 on the freeway at night then its fine, if I go 70+ its screwed.
I had a similar issue ,could barely get up to 70 ,the more I pressed the throtle the worse it got. I replaced the Map sensor and IAC sensor and issue solved. I had already replaced the fuel pump before this happened. I,ve since gone quite a bit farther by replacing most every electronic sensor and ignition part , as I see you,ve a few yourself ,but these trucks are old and so are these parts and that,s why I,ve spent the money cause I don,t want to buy a new ,quite expensive truck . These are long lived and great trucks ,well worth the pain in the ass. I often hear of huge mileage figures of 1 ,2 ,3 ,4 ,even 500 k miles on these Chevies .
Would the suburban run fine in park till u put it in drive? It seems like one day it will run fine then the next min it will start cuttin out goin down the road
@@juansaldivar4171 yeah man, I'd pulled the spark advance plug (brown and black wire) and drive it for a couple weeks. Then replaced the ecm and it ran perfectly fine after that.
I've got an idea to run by you, if you were to make a jumper wire to connect to those two prongs to, then you could connect the ICM outside of the distributor. What do you think?
I have a Suburban 1995 7.4 engine The engine does not work so I replaced this part then it worked for a few seconds and it broke again I don't know why, is it a contact or the computer is down?
@@carlosmedrano2145 yes I did. Turned out the engine ground was bad. When it would loose ground the instruments would go crazy. New ground was installed and everything works as it should.
@@clapdemcheekz731 I'm reading the codes out of the Chilton's manual for a 5.7 chev engine. 12 is the initiation of the obd code program. But that's ok, whatever gets us back on the road!
I know, right, Stoney. I was sitting here smokin a fatty and watching this. I say to myself,.. WOW, a 10 cylinder Suburban... That is the only reason I was reading the comments to see if anyone caught that. It's funny, Stoney. I think you are the only one who even caught that, or at least mentioned it.... ;o}~
Yea mine would turn on and run for maybe 10 seconds then shut off .... mine seemed like it was fuel related not rpm but I have a 1987 model..... could be the same on yours just different signs
This video is awesome.I wasn't getting any spark to the engine and originally thought it was the fuel pump, turned out to be fine and I just replaced my distributor and ignition coil and I have to reconnect the wiring on my 1995 Chevy Tahoe LS 4x4. Set up looks almost identical under the hood!
I'm doing this tomorrow on different vehicle but same process. This video gave me all the pointers I needed. Thank you...
U dont have to disconnect all the wires. Just unscrew the cap n lift away.
Will it trow timing off?
@@FreshKicks4545 no, the timing adjustment twists the entire top of the distributor itself. The cap bolts onto the top of that, so as long as your adjustment bolt is tightened down well then taking the cap off and putting it back on won't affect the timing at all.
I wondered that. Why ever take any spark plug wires off unless you absolutely have to? I figure I may have to take the coil wire loose because it's shorter, but idk yet.
For me, with all the wires on the cap it's hard to get to the lower screws
Joe great video dude. Did the same on my 1990 Chevy V1500 Suburban. I felt the same way as the chorus singing "Hallelujah" in your vid. LOL!! Have a good one bro.
This was a very helpful (and entertaining) video- thank you! Appreciate folks that walk through the whole process (even if they fast forward) so you can physically see start to finish.
Thanks Joe, lol on the video editing, your tutorial still holds up.
Your video helped me tremendously on troubleshooting my 93 Chevy Silverado.
Thumbs up on your numbering system, whatever it takes!
I’ve changed the spark plug wires before, I know the damn firing order, it’s still a pain in the ass. 👍
I hit the subscribe button, keep up the good work. AFJUAN
wow Im really greatful for your time and help!! you did perfect! no long stupid intro and then some jerk taking in huge detail abot something. you were right to the point and im subscribing. you actually were funny too! thanks man
Thanks for the helpful video brother, I will give an update after I change it out.
Hopefully it helps with my acceleration issue
3 years later and no update must be still working on it 🤦
I am about to do this on my Suburban so thanks for the video.
thanks. fixed my truck using your video.
Yeah! What Jimmy Smith said. What prompted you to change the ICM?
Dielectric grease is for the actual electrical connections the packet that comes with it is thermal paste it goes on the heat sink on the rear of the unit. Just in case anyone loses theirs thought I’d throw this up.
Thanks for info Joe. Note; I always put a rag over carb/throt bod when handling small parts (screws) over engine. It has saved me more than 1 headache.
Wild Bill Firehands excellent idea
I know you're right I had one hit the rag on a tbi just destined to bypass through the idle air control cavity! They're drawn to that particular area every chance they get!
44 oz pop cup works well too too cover the opening...
Good video, however cover the throttle body, dont take plug wires off cap, and use die electric grease for the conections, and the white stuff is NOT grease it is heat sink compound.
this was the coolest video ever in my time of distressed
@Joe Littell I had just changed this item too and was thinking it was the starter coil come to find out it was the same item i replaced the year before
Thank you! You speak my language!!..💪😊
That was the best tutorial of how to replace the ICM!!! By the way, I have a Chevy silverado 1993 350, i need to buy some parts and sensors, please can you tell me where i can buy those things??. Please send me a link, because I am from Chile and here they don´t have spare parts for this truck.
thanks!!
Might also check out LMCtruck.com if you still have your truck
The only useful video I could find on this fix!
Thank you, i got a 1987 Gmc Suburban Classic, it helped me alot! Your Awesome, Thanks Again! 👍
Did you get it fixed or were you just running your pie hole
Love the zip tie on the map sensor LOL I did the same modification f****** clips. Also have the same issue on my engine temp sensor dam clips
Great video.
You’re actually pretty funny, because you’re just funny enough while seeming to know what you’re talking about automotively, and not trying to worry about being funny.
It’s a delicate balance.
It’s a balmy 17*F outside right now and I must do this very task now. This may be the last post I make before losing my finger tips to exposure. 🤞🏼 🤙🏼🖕🏼🤟🏼🤘🏼👍🏼
Great video
do you see the built up carbon in the center of that rotor,the cap is probably burned up too,when you see carbon on ignition parts ,just replace them,they will allow high voltage to jump and drive you nuts,its the little things that get you on a tuneup
Thank you
great content and video was very helpful 🎉
Nice video.
LOL I like your style. Doing an ICM on an 89 k1500 Rc/Sb.
Great job thx
Thanks!!
Actually I just take half the plugs off and the coil wire off. Tip the cap to the passenger side. no need to remove all. Good vid!
But hey Joe thanks. It was cool to be able to tell my boyfriend what to do.
😂
Excellently perfect.
i've never seen anyone label the wires like that. not a bad idea, since i forget the firing order all the time
yeah except there’s not 10 spark plugs in a 350 v8 lol
Spitfulbacon15 He labeled the coil plug also still not sure we’re number 10 was but I know that was number nine LOL
Not all of them are held down by screws. 5.5mm bolts for me. Instantly broke both cause they were so rusty
Thank you for the informative film. When you attached a new Ignition control module, did you lubricate all the female connectors? I've read on Amazon - all female connectors on the module (which are 2) should be lubricated, but some people including this film seems lubricate only the back of the module and don't put any of Silicon Heat Compound into connectors. If you put any of that compound into connectors how much did you put, if you could tell. Thank you again.
A little late I'm sure but this grease is good for all electrical connections. Just a dab will do, often what's left on your finger smeared in the plug is enough for me. Hope this helps someone!
@@therealbenavis I also always write if know smth regardless time posted, bcs other people read and that is how we learn. Actually I still don't have a certain answer for that lubricant. I've learned and do it on the regular bases to apply a bit on connectors, though first worried, since it is a dielectric, but everything works fine. But what I'm not sure about it is application of Silicon Heat Compound on the back of the Module in the sense how much to apply. 1 year ago I didn't apply at all, since read somewhere that in 2003 Chevy Cavalier there is some kind of internal heat think in that Module and you don't need to apply any heat grease. Then I forgot about it and though I need to apply some, so recently, like 2 weeks ago I applied on the back of the Module like 2 tsp. Everything works fine, but the back of the Module looked weird (like a buttered sandwich). I though to open again and remove some (since everyone write it should be very thin layer of thermal grease, but I've also came across statements that it won't hurt, and better to worry if it is not enough). We are in TX, so I decided to continue the experiment and drive w/that amount of Silicon Heat Compound in the Module. Thank you for your comment and concern.
Do not use di electric silicone grease use heat sink compound, its usually opaque white This compound is a conductor of heat to the heat sink the module is attached to . for heat transference away from the transistors in the module .
My 98 chevy c1500 was having hesitation issues trying to start when engine was hot. I replaced this and engine start issue was resolved
Did you have the same when cold?
@@FreshKicks4545 Not at the time, but on another note check your MAP sensor to make sure it isn't clogged with carbon if you truck is having start issues
You left out the "Startup"? I want to see the thing running! Anyways, i'll try this and see. Thx!
Don,t think u need to pop off the plug wires, just move the cap off to the side ,perhaps take off one or two plug wires is all. But your quality and closeness of coverage is very good and self explanitory . thanks. My ,92 silverado lost power and shut down in heavy traffic ,realy bad timing,. I replaced my coil and control module . Course the truck is 31 years old along with the electronics so what could u expect ,no big surprise . I,ll be checking any and all underhood wiring as well for cracking or abrasion
So far I,ve replaced the IAC sensor, MAP sensor, O2 sensor , Ignition control module ,dist. cap +rotor , 8mm wires and plugs ,Michelin Defender tires and in the midst of installing an MSD system + MSD super coil . Along with a TBI spacer and injector spacer ( riser ). It,s a bit of money ,but it,l run far better than stock ( 31 yrs. old ) , better fuel economy and dead dependable . It,s paid for, better than spending $60 k on a new truck .
were you getting code 42?
Thanks man right on the $
Good video bruh...u got swag
What were the symptoms? I have a 95 chevy 1500 and it started to hesitate or cough while running. Thinking fuel filter but maybe its this?
Did you find out what it was?
Did this work for you?
Probably fuel filter. Bad ICM results in truck not starting or just dying when it's warm and refusing to restart.
I have a 1994 chevy 1500 with a 5.7L. Its been having major acceleration issues on the freeway at night at 70+MPH. Ive spend a total of about $1300 so far trying to figure out what the hell is wrong with it. I have a strong feeling its the ICM and I could have saved $1200 if I just knew that to start. Ive replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel injectors, EGR valve, TPS sensor, battery and O2 sensor so far and its still acting up on the freeway at night. Its not the headlights cause I drive it with them on in the day on the freeway just to be sure. If its not the ICM then its got to be the voltage regulator, otherwise I guess Ill douse the truck in gas and just give it a viking funeral LOL which sucks cause it drives like a beast during the day LOL, If I keep it under 60 on the freeway at night then its fine, if I go 70+ its screwed.
Then keep it under 60 lol . Check tps connectors and pig tails???
I had a similar issue ,could barely get up to 70 ,the more I pressed the throtle the worse it got. I replaced the Map sensor and IAC sensor and issue solved. I had already replaced the fuel pump before this happened. I,ve since gone quite a bit farther by replacing most every electronic sensor and ignition part , as I see you,ve a few yourself ,but these trucks are old and so are these parts and that,s why I,ve spent the money cause I don,t want to buy a new ,quite expensive truck . These are long lived and great trucks ,well worth the pain in the ass. I often hear of huge mileage figures of 1 ,2 ,3 ,4 ,even 500 k miles on these Chevies .
What grease did you use. ?
Would the suburban run fine in park till u put it in drive? It seems like one day it will run fine then the next min it will start cuttin out goin down the road
Did u ever fix that issue I’m having problems with my
@@juansaldivar4171 yeah man, I'd pulled the spark advance plug (brown and black wire) and drive it for a couple weeks. Then replaced the ecm and it ran perfectly fine after that.
I've got an idea to run by you, if you were to make a jumper wire to connect to those two prongs to, then you could connect the ICM outside of the distributor.
What do you think?
Well damn i was thinking of something like that myself.
It would overheat like that
@@jonhsmith2706 What if it were mounted on the firewall or fender well?
I have a Suburban 1995 7.4 engine The engine does not work so I replaced this part then it worked for a few seconds and it broke again I don't know why, is it a contact or the computer is down?
U get urs figured out mine is doing the same thing
A dirty, dusty Dis. Cap means rainy day PROBLEMS. The rubber strip along the cowling keeps dirt out.
I got a 95 gmc 1500 305, what symptoms did this truck Have? Did engine crank? Gauges act crazy?
Did you fix your truck?
James ?
@@carlosmedrano2145 yes I did. Turned out the engine ground was bad. When it would loose ground the instruments would go crazy. New ground was installed and everything works as it should.
@@JamesSmith-co1kt what ground wire ?
Lil' Twosie!
REprogram 1999 Ifiniti i30 after ignition switch replaced
What code is it. In order to replace that part. On the Chevy Silverado obs
Mine threw a code 12
Code 42 for the ICM. Code 12 is the initial diagnostic code when you start the OBD system diagnostics.
@@rickbarnes9269 mine threw 12. I cross referenced it and it turned up ICM...replaced it...never threw another code. Idk
@@rickbarnes9269 Google 94 chevy code 12.
@@clapdemcheekz731 I'm reading the codes out of the Chilton's manual for a 5.7 chev engine. 12 is the initiation of the obd code program. But that's ok, whatever gets us back on the road!
How do you have 10 plug wires?
I know, right, Stoney. I was sitting here smokin a fatty and watching this. I say to myself,..
WOW, a 10 cylinder Suburban...
That is the only reason I was reading the comments to see if anyone caught that.
It's funny, Stoney. I think you are the only one who even caught that, or at least mentioned it.... ;o}~
If it hot will it make you truck back fire
This was the problem with my truck.... running now
What was it doing before ? Mine seem to have low rpms and it shuts off
Yea mine would turn on and run for maybe 10 seconds then shut off .... mine seemed like it was fuel related not rpm but I have a 1987 model..... could be the same on yours just different signs
All that and you didn't start the truck?! You could've just taken off the dist. cap with all the plugs attached also.
entertaining
You should not use your finger, uncovered. Oil from finger not good.
Is that dielectric grease?
Heat sink compound
You should have cleaned the rotor and cap.
Maybe you should clean your hiney.
I've never seen a 9 cylinder
or just get the firing order from the internet much easier.
Chipmunks
Just be gentle with it....lol
It’s fuel injected not carbureted 😢😂
Why not just leave the wires on the distributor cap and just take the distributor cap off
18436572
It's the coil connection 🙄🙄