When the dude shoots the 4 cans and hits 2, then the wind blows the last 2 over, that was the best part of the whole video. The cheesy look of confidence or good enough look on his face was priceless. Reminds me of alot of people in my area...
After being in the Army for 8yrs in a combat unit, 25m / 300m zero is king. You are basically pinpoint accurate from 0-50m and 250-325m. Everything in between aim a *tad* low. Either way 0-350m if you aim low center mass at a man sized target (without wind) you score a hit.
Max point blank is less error and gets you the same distance..I mean get some sort of zero for sure, but you’re better off zeroing at a farther distance. The only reason the Army does 25 is because they can’t afford the time or ammo and dont have the space to do a 200 yard zero in austere environments
My first AR15 was a M&P15 gen 1. I was in the Army so I got it from the PX for $500+ tax free. I converted as much as I can to get it as close to my Army issued M4 so I can improve my marksmanship. 10 years later and 4 other AR's, I still have it and it's my bedside home defense AR.
Fun tip: if you have iron sights you can adjust your front sight with just a round of 5.56 by using the tip of the bullet to push down the retaining pin. Then just rotate that pin to move it slightly up and down.
I joined the military without ever owning a gun, I got stationed in Japan and have been watching your videos since. These videos get me so excited to hop into the gun game when I get back to the states. MERICAAA!!
The traitors in our government, which is most of our government, are working hard to commit treason by dismantling the 2nd and many other amendments. The politicians are globalists.
@@bundle420 Wouldn't that be a kick in the balls? Serve your country, protecting our rights, can't exercise them yourself when you get back to the States...
Army teaches 25/300m zero which works extremely well with the 4x32 ACOG. If you zero with the bottom of the chevron for 300m, the top of the chevron will near perfectly line up for 150ish meter targets. That way you’ll never shoot over the target if you can estimate range fairly well.
The width of the elevation ticks is also supposed to approximate average human shoulder width at the labelled range, which helps estimate distance a bit.
Marines teaches 36/300 yard zero which allows no need for any other adjustments besides hold center mass and fire out to 300. After 300 yards we do wind holds out to 500 yards. It allows that at 500 yards your general round drift etc will not expand larger than that of a CD size. Obviously the ammo type will make a difference but essentially holding center mass from 301-500 yrds will enable an effective hit within a CD sized target.
@@arc_4543 ACOG ALL CASH OPTIONS GONE super spendy. You’re correct they are super tough. If marines can keep them working, then it’s one tough ass optic. Loved running the ACOG in the ARMY, loved the Eotech even more. 36/300 zero is the way to go in my opinion 25 yard zero about 1/2” high.
Not technically my first rifle, but my first AR rifle was a PSA carbine kit I bought. All I put on it was a carry handle iron sight, a flashlight mount and a simple vertical foregrip.
My first rifle was a PSA upper kit and a locally sourced lower. Total was $380. Cheaper than any of my handguns. Those were the days. More accurate than I am and over 6200 rounds the only issue has been it won't feed steel case reliably. Meh.
That bit on the cheap optics hit me right in the feels. I mounted a $50 open reflex on an ultimak railed gas tube and learned the importance of paying for quality. 12 rounds was all it took to cook that thing.
I forgot the brand. The at I bought came with El cheapo red dot sight. Thing sighted well indoors and stays on the gun. The moment sunlight came outside the dot disappears to the point of being unusable.
Bought a cheap red dot myself a few years ago. Every few shots it would go lose it's zero. Didn't matter what I did, it kept happening. A quote from Dave Canterbury I heard years ago, "you buy cheap you buy twice."
I went with the vortex Strike fire 2 for my red dot. Awesome optic for the price. I lost my turret cap and emailed the warranty department. They sent me 2 of them and a free hat, all for free. Best lifetime warranty hands down
Not gonna lie, I put a Sig Romeo 5 on my shorty AR and fully expecting to upgrade it later but in 5 years I've had zero issues with it. It's still holding the same zero that I put on it when I first zeroed out. I'm not gentle with that gun either. I'm very pleasantly surprised by how well it's done.
You gotta realize these guys are a bit elitest and not really the everyman. There are really good red dots from sig, primary arms, and holosun. They all last a long time. In many cases just as long as stuff costing double. They recommend some great stuff but it is all high end expensive stuff if you aren't a wanna be operator.
@@SW0000A totally agree… they do recommend kind of the best there is but I got to give it to him he did mention primary and holosun as good options. We all want that DD with a aim point or razor surefire can and dbal but until I get that, I’ll stick with an average gun with a holosun .
no your drop is bigger than a cd size from just the 36 yards to 300 you are looking at a 7in drop with an 18" barrel and it just gets worse using anything else... If you are aiming at the middle of the target you aren't within a cd you are missing by way more than a cd.
Definitely my favorite for SBRs. I am so used to a 25m zero from the army but I'm coming around to it. I now have my 308 on a 36m zero and I'm digging it. I can't believe I ever zeroed a rifle at 100 at this point.
One of the things I'm learning as a new AR shooter (after growing up shooting shotguns) is that a 5.56 actually has little to no recoil. When we learned to shoot shotguns, we were always taught to pull the stock into your shoulder firmly otherwise you'd start getting bruised. I notice that I'm doing that when shooting my AR and I really don't need to. The stock seems like it's their to help steady the gun not transfer recoil into your body. Old habits.
As a new ar owner your videos have been the most informative and straightforward with a little bit of comedic smartassery thrown in. I'll be watching everything you have. Great video
I’m so glad the choices were so much more narrow when I built my first AR in 2009. Bushmaster A3 Patrolman’s upper, Doublestar lower, milspec everything on the lower. State of the art optics at the time was an Aimpoint Comp M3 on a cantilever mount, so that’s what it got. Arms #30L buis, Midwest quad rail & a Surefire G series light topped it off. So few people had AR’s back then that any time I went to the range it was an attention grabber. Now it rarely gets taken out of the safe because I’ve built much, much better rifles that suit my current needs much more completely. But I’ll never get rid of her, she was my first & I’ll always have a soft spot for her, antiquated though she may be.
Shit back in the early 90's we were mini 14 guy's because they were only 400 clams but I saved up my money and bought a colt for 1200! When I took that to the range everyone looked... now?... Not so much lol
that Glock specific frontgrip is killing me! For those who don´t know: Its designed to put on a glock, and if folded, the extension covers the Trigger, to act as a "Trigger Holster" to prevent the trigger from getting caught on something (Its designed to be used in conjection with a Stock, as a PDW kinda thing, so the Gun is maybe hanging from a sling, thus the triggerprotection may be needed)
Your needs out of an optic can change as time goes on. I have ran the same Vortex spitfire AR 1x for years and finally upgraded to one of the Primary arms 3x microprisms for a little bit of magnification. As new products hit the market it makes sense to grab stuff that fits your needs that maybe wasn't around for a decent price 5+ years ago🤷
I don't know when I got my first AR the first optic was an EOTech. This was back in 2009 timeframe. It was the huge one with the AA battery. I thought it was so cool but looking on forums the one optic that I was immediately interested in the Elcan. I was put off by the price at first but after some time I just got it. I've been using it for the last 10 years now and can't see myself using anything else since I like it so much.
True...mostly. I spent months finding a used Leopold at a sane price. The long discontinued VX2 1-4x is highly sought after. Not one company has made a 1-4X that light, before or since. It is a mere 8 ounces. Crystal clear and quite robust. Their newer "improved 1-4's are heavier and not as well made with glass, for the $400 price point being no batter than the old VX2's. I would rather drive a nail through my foot than carry an AR with an Elcan on it. Or any LPVO weighing a POUND or more. The ONLY exception would be the new(classified) military VORTEX LPVO with the integrated computer and laser range finder. THAT is what I call "cutting edge" of tech/
@@deplorabledave1048 My change was an increase from 1x to 3x and dropped 3.5 ounces if I remember correctly. So the change to modern made sense, that isn't always the case, that Leopold you got is a keeper!
@@breakdown7153 Indeed. When they 1st came out they were $400 notice count. Since they have been discontinued they they routinely sell for the same price on eBay. I watched for years until I found one for $230 right after Christmas when everybody is broke. And then 2 weeks later I found another 1 for $200 new in the Box . I had to buy that one too!
A good pair of irons and a light are really all you need to get proficient and accurate on target. Everything else comes down to want. Many soldiers shot expert with just irons. These days we have endless choices in the 2A community, which is a very good thing, but your training will always keep you alive. Not fancy gear. Great video. Keep up the great work.
I got my first nice rifle. Aero lower DD upper 16”barrel quad rail. Came with the DD rear metal sight and fixed FSP. I added a nice sling, surefire turbo light, and I’ve only shot w the irons it’s so much damn fun. My first AR was a ruger and I put a 3x primary Arms prism and once I had it zeroed in it is boring as fuck to shoot within 200 yards. It never misses. I’ll use the irons until I decide what I trust my life with as this new rifle is my SHTF do it all rifle.
I've made nearly every one of these mistakes (except for not zeroing properly), but I don't necessarily regret making them. As a new shooter, you have to play around with different configurations before deciding what works for you. If you buy top of the line lights/optics/accessories every time you change up your configuration, you'll be spending boatloads. Play around with different options with some cheaper components until you find something that you like and works for you, and then shell out some good cash for quality components.
Exactly. I intentionally bought the cheapest, most ridiculous all-in-one setup off Amazon when I first bought my AR. I wasn't looking for quality. I was just looking to see if I wanted to spend real money on a dot, a scope or even a laser, light ir laser/light combo. Now on my Sig Cross .308 I have a big Vortex scope that cost more than my first AR did, on my original M&P Sport II I've changed out literally everything but the striped lower, bare upper and barrel but I'm running a 1-6x LVPO with backup itons that I love on that gun with a simple angled foregrip and light. Even changed out the grip, stock and every other part with lightweight components because it's my go-to rifle. Solidly dependable. Other guns get other stuff. Like my Kel-Tec S2k got the full MCarbo treatment and a Stalk-tek laser. It's fun as heck, reliable, and can be folded into a backpack. It has a vertical foregrip just because the placement of the laser's pressure switch is ideal. So, yeah, try cheap stuff so you learn what you like and then buy good stuff. One thing he didn't mention in the video was the trigger. Biggest improvement to me was a good, single stage, light weight trigger. I'm now to a 3 lb pull on my AR and no gun is over 4.5 lbs in my safe. My groupings are far better that way. As to keeping it level: he mentioned technique but I didn't catch the most important part: pull the gun into your shoulder. That'll keep you from getting bruised by larger caliber guns and keep the muzzle down.
The very first sight I had on my AR was a cheap Chinese reflex/red dot. It worked fine and never lost zero, but the brightness/color selector got a little messed up from recoil. Bought my first legit sight from cabelas, it was a Sig SAUER Romeo 5. It worked fantastically and I’m still using it to this day. And finally I just bought an Eotech EXPS2-2 the other day, delivers tomorrow. Putting that on my AR and the Romeo 5 is going on one of my other guns, haven’t decided which yet.
Sig Romeo is probably the best option for the first AR, inexpensive but reliable and gets the job done. Especially since, on the first one, most people probably aren't trying to break the bank
my first AR is the exact same model in this video, and the very first part that's worth replacing is the foregrip. it's plastic and gets crazy hot. replaced it with a Magpul for like $30. after that, i saved up a little and picked up a Sig Romeo5 and still run it to this day. it's simple, but has been incredibly reliable for me. don't have any plans to replace it anytime soon. obviously, there are better optics out there, but it's more than adequate for my uses. now i'm trying to save up to replace the BUIS i currently have with a set of Troy HKs...
Lucas, I must say that I whole heartedly agree with your statement “buying your firearm for your 2A rights.” If you’re buying to exercise 2A, then it needs to truly be 2A capable.
Lucas. You're dead on in your conclusion. The purpose of the 2nd Amendment is to have the capabilities of a modern infantryman. Not many truly understand this statement and the rifle is merely a part of that.
first time buyer this year, went with a diamondback db15 and a small $300 holosun red dot and irons. simple magpul foregrip and a sling. im glad to hear i only went halfway nooby getting into rifles. its been very fun learning how to shoot and clean it so far
@@jhutch1470 from what i researched about them, they seem still relatively new to the game as well but like this comment thread, i saw so many positive reviews for their db15 series. a friend has a db10, swears by it. it really convinced me so i went with diamondback. got the db15 for $700 and the only problem i have had is myself getting used to it. i also REALLY like that their youtube channel invites potential customers to essentially meet them and their product. feels really down to earth and american made. left an impression on me without busting my wallet as a beginner.
I was disappointed in battery life in my sig msr and Rome 5, then double disappointed and thought the Romeo 5 died. Ended up being the Energizer batteries I bought were all crap.
@@warrenharrison9490 I have both and can confirm that the msr plays slightly better with an astigmatism. As far as battery life goes, I've left both on for months at a time and never had either die on me. The Romeo 5 has shake awake which helps
I have both, and run them on 22lr builds. I personally wouldn’t run them on anything other than a range toy. Also ran the MSR on a 6” pcc and it did fine.
Not sure if you're serious or this is a joke because Lucas has mentioned it sucks in the "Can you build a rifle under for $1000" video. I haven't had any issues with mine and it moves to new rifles as I get better ones, but I do know a few people who started "having issues with zero" after he posted that video. Kinda funny how that works.
@@Fourty5 Lucas is an arrogant elitist snob who is upset that any optic under $500 can be good, which is why he hates the perfectly good and affordable Romero 5.
The one saving grace I had as an AR-15 builder was I was a trained Unit Armorer - attending Small Arms Armorer course in the Army. And one of my buds was an actual trained Gunsmith and another a senior armorer. Still I still had to learn on my own that not to cheap out. And I always do iron sights first. Always. But learning never stops.
I worked at an indoor range and heres some of the common things that make my eye twitch: $15 optics with no riser on an ar, bipods with red dots, $10,000 worth of gear and zeroing a lpvo at 5 yds... we need more videos like this.
"bipods with red dots" Are you people serious? Bipods and red dots? Do you guys know what the purpose of a bipod is? Do you know what the purpose of a red dot is? That's like putting Super Swampers on a Lambo. The whole point of a bipod is stabilization from prone for long range shooting. Red dots aren't for long range shooting. Yes, you can put magnifiers on there, but there are still better options out there than that, like any decent LPVO or prism scope. "$10,000 worth of gear and zeroing a lpvo at 5 yds" Those are the kind of people that, when shit hits the fan, are going to be referred to as 'loot boxes.'
@@stupidanon5941 “are you people serious”. Honest questions from people willing to learn shouldn’t earn such a shitty reply. Get over yourself joe hardcore…
What I found out with the AR stock setting was that sometimes I might have to rest the stock against arm instead of shoulder, so the stock had to be set not too long or short for a good grip and stability. This happens when you really got to stretch out for around a corner shot, not to mention if you can only use one hand. Once I instinctively did it when having to run and shoot behind around my left (I'm right handed) and after that I realised the stock was actually resting against the arm instead of shoulder. It was a good run.
I just had a revelation that I was totally oblivious to the convergence point. Tried to zero in my red dot on my first carbine (KR9) and was weirded out why I was laying perfect 10s at 25 meters and then it was landing center mass at 100 meters, but at 50 it was almost at the head level. Next range session I'll recalibrate the red dot. Incredible.
Most people don't realize that bullets actually fly in a parabolic arc due to the spin. They don't just come out and drop. They come out, the centripetal force of the bullet spins to the right, causing it to go up and then it eventually drops back down. It caused the bullet to do exactly what you just described. At extreme distances, if you aim at the center of a target, what actually will happen is the bullet will come out, arc up, drop back down, while continuing to spin of course and as the bullet loses velocity, the spin of the bullet will cause it to left up and to the right so your shot will land nowhere near where you were originally aiming. Barring all other factors (like wind drift), compensating for "bullet drop" isn't enough at long range.
I’ve been wanting to purchase my first rifle for a few months now, but I decided to do research and look into these topics beforehand. I’m glad I did or else I would’ve wasted a lot of money down the road. I’m glad Lucas made this video for newcomers just like me and get this information out there. You’re saving money & informative.
Good on you for planning ahead. Give yourself/save up enough of a budget to buy solid, meat and potatoes stuff. Vortex, Daniel Defense, Eotech, and Holosun have always worked well for me. Your gun, your call.
As an Unarmed Individual, ive always wondered how Zeroing worked, since your sight is aiming in a straight line while your round is travelling in an arc. thanks for the explaination
I started off with that very same rifle. Upgraded the red dot to a sig romeo 5, later to an lpvo. Changed the gas block to a low profile MI gasblock and handguard to a 15 icnh free float MI mlok handguard. A 2AA pencil barrel with a 1:8 twist with mid length gas system. Bcm stock, magpul grip, bcm bcg, added a inforce light and magpul handstop. Soon to be a bcm kag just cuz i wanna try it. Looks bad ass, i got a compliment today from the gunshop. Told me im one of the few people who set their rifle up correctly and i did a perfext job installing everything. Made me feel good.
@@James-cr5mc in my honest opinion yes. My buddy bought one (he sets up his guns like the one in the video) and compared to the streamlights, surefires, cloud defensive, and arisaka stuff it's garbage. Once you try a high quality light you'll never go back. An entry level streamlight is around $100 and honestly isn't too bad. I'm saving for an arisaka.
I live in Germany and im a hunter. In the course taht we had to take before the test to get the license we got taught that hitting 4cm high on 100m is the best option for Germany. With that you have the 50/200 septup wich allows you to aim dead center at almost every piece of bigger game without worrying about the point of impact
My son spent his birthday money on an Osprey gun show special. $200 burned. We went to the range for his birthday. The vertical adjustment made a J. Never ever buy Osprey. I ended up buying him a vortex that day. It cost more than the rifle.
Basically, everything in this video boils down to "buy once, cry once" - which is the right mentality. My Dad keeps buying the cheapest crap out there, and wonders why it breaks. He's spent so much on low-quality items that he could have easily purchased an EoTech or more affordable Aimpoint lol. He loves his Hi-Points...even though the 3 Hi-Point firearms he has keep jamming, stovepiping, or straight up breaking. But he swears by them. Thank God he actually got a Taurus (can't believe I'm saying that lol) to carry. At least it hasn't jammed once...yet.
Bro high quality products like my authentic stream light railmount HL-X for $200. It’s little rubber piece inside of the light is garbage just one disassemble/assemble and it’s basically already trashed it’s all ripped apart. I got a Springfield armory ar15 16” with just moe hand guard. I currently have ^^^that light as mentioned above the: STREAMLIGHT HL-X - $200 Lantac compensator - $150 Magpul bipod - $150 Magpul SL-K adjustable stock - $65 1 x Magpul 60rd drum (unpinned. I live in the unconstitutional law breaking California *not paying a fortune for an actually *REAL*, high capacity magazine) - $200 -CMC Single Stage Flat faced 2.5lb Trigger - $200 -Romeo6 Juliet3 combo Red dot sight & magnifier - $300 -stupid juggernaut hell fighter cali comp. Mod *literally useless as all hell. Adds less than a second to my reload of my standard 30rd mags well any mag but I’m trying to state the fact THIRTY ROUND MAGS ARE NOT LARGE CAPACITY*!!! I will actually be remove and going back to the standard mag release hate not being able to lock my bolt back it’s so “unsafe” 😂💀💀💀💀💀**** California
Hi points are absolutely shit. Waste of money and can get something a lot better for a little more. Taurus has stepped their game up and are pretty reliable now
I had a Hipoint carbine for almost 20 years, most reliable gun I ve ever owned till it burned up in a house fire, and impressively accurate. I ve never had one of the hideous pistols but the guys I know who have had no serious issues
This is a great vid for a beginner. Wish I would’ve had someone like this! I definitely made some of these mistakes 8-9 years ago when I got my first AR. The mistake I didn’t make was buying a crappy gun though. I wanted something solid, so I got a colt le6920 for my first ar and played around with crappy optics and scopes until I finally learned what makes a 400-500 dollar optic actually worth that price. Now I run an Eotech and have an even better rifle that I build (and still have the colt)
I think we ALL did this in the very beginning...but thats the fun of the journey. Me personally...every time i think about how bad my first 2 builds were (16" carbine, 7.5" pistol 2014) compared to the stuff im doing almost 10 yrs later, i get a really good chuckle. Then i smile inside because now i "get it" 🫡 keep learning
yeah I wish I watched a video like this when I got my first AR, learned most of it slowly though practicing shooting and getting a tip here or there. For a long time I only had iron sights on my first AR, and got a Sig Romeo5 as my first red dot, which is the bare minimum. I prefer Primary Arms Microprims now
Solid vid. Speaking of foregrips, a few years ago I seen a video with Travis Haley and he said a good way to find the proper location was to shoulder the rifle (stock properly adjusted of course) with your dominant hand/arm, close your eyes, and reach/grab the handgaurd with your support hand to the point that feels the most natural, and that's where your foregrip should be. It worked for me and a couple other people who I had try it 🤷♂️
That’s how we’ve always setup our rifles when we use a fire grip or lights. If it comes naturally you’ll do it without thinking when you don’t have time to think.
Thanks Lucas, this really helped understanding so much of the tech and mechanics without having to learn everything from scratch. I will say, in all my experimenting, at least I have NOT used channel locks on any weapon. Internally I screamed "NOOOOO!!!" when I saw those channel locks in action. Ugh, that was good theatrics.
Makes me feel a little better about my first BCM 14.5 build with romeo5 and hlx light purchase in 2019.. that rifle now has a modlite and an ACOG! The build with a plan to upgrade is the way
The AR-15 accessory market is vast. Got my first AR 4yrs ago. It was an Aero build. I now have a safe full of AR rifles and accessories. It’s kinda addictive.
$25 field sport clone of that multi radical Red Dot you showed. First Red Dot I ever bought. I've had that on 22s, AR is in 556, and a Mosin to go in 7.62x54r. I'm not saying I recommend it. But cheap crap can sometimes be worth it. I've had good luck with fieldsport, CVlife, and monstrum. My current is a Monstrum Banshee MPVO 2-10x34. It's amazing.
Thought I knew everything until I watched this. Specifically the adjustable stock advice I found to be immensely helpful and everything else is right on the money. Great video
I would disagree. Streamlight are the lowest end of good but their candela leaves much to be desired. It can be said they do well for their lumens but a Cloud or a Modlite has substantially better candela which is the most important aspect of a light meant for identifying threats before ventilating them.
These kind of videos are invaluable pools of knowledge as someone that lives in the UK and wouldn't get these kind of tips/hints otherwise! Cheers mate!
@@samhellion I took up airsoft shortly after the 'does it transfer' video. I play with some old mates/veterans and we work on ourselves and have fun at the same time. Gotta take what you can, right?
So I've seen the "Daniel Defense extendo-grip" jokes all over but having worked in the industry there is a simple explanation. It is done with a purpose. Most manufacturer's that include a grip of some sort simply put it in a rough midpoint of the rail. Most end users never customize it for optimum ergonomics and just leave it there. Hell, more than a few probably do not even know you can adjust it. DD places the grip at the extreme end of the rail so that you are forced to fit it to your needs as the individual shooter. Sure they could just throw it in the box and achieve the same ends, but can't include it in photos that way. You don't have to agree with or like the explanation but it is their thinking and in no way was the grip meant to be utilized in that placement....
I just came out of military service and the amount of guys running their foregrip at the dead front of the rail actually started to blow my mind, only me and few others had the common knowledge of ergonomics but the rest insisted their set up was best - full length stock and grip all the way out to the front. Started to get on my nerves XD
I played around with the location on my foregrip and stock to get them where they felt good before I screwed the front down. If I ever buy another AR I’m going to build this one for portability and lighter weight
ikr? it's so common with the "tacticool" clowns these days, it irks me as well. In the Army, we used a mid length foregrip (forearm at/near 45° angle), long enough for good support, but still short enough to tuck in and brace elbow on carrier for precise shots. all these wacky foregrips, hold locations, overhanded holds, etc. might work for the weekend warrior youtubers; but ergonomics, comfort, support, etc. definitely take precedence when you're humping 90+ pounds of gear on a patrol engaging targets that actually shoot back...
I’m not the best at shooting, I don’t practice enough, but I set up my first AR with what felt comfortable. Lot of guys I served with were trying to give me 15 different things of advice about what should go where. But it feels like the ergonomics of a lot of weapons is fairly intuitive. The only thing I didn’t know was where was the best placement for an optic.
We all have to start somewhere as it goes for equipment, but training is essential regardless of what tier you're currently at. I still remember starting from Delton/PSA to now BCMs and Sig MCX Virtus or from Olight to now Surefire... Thanks Lucas! 🤙🏽
So much hate on OLights lol. I still use them on my guns. Last thing I really need to change on them. But they work so no rushing to spend a ton of money on surefire.
I'd seen a post on Facebook where some guy had both an angled and vertical grip, claimed the angled grip gave him a faster "aim down sight speed" up close and that the vertical grip was for "down range shooting".
Former Infantry Drill Sergeant here. Here are your holds when using a 25/300 zero and shooting at a torso sized E-type silhouette: 25-center mass 50-center mass 100-center mass 150-belly button 200-belt buckle 250-belly button 300-center mass Hint: with a 25/300 zero, the apex of the trajectory is at 190m. So for all my former army vets out there who recall the old saying “aim low get a go”, this is what they were talking about. In the heat of firing, we tend to start aiming between the shoulders rather than keeping it center mass.
@@jasonwitcher2594 For 5.56 specifically, when you use a military zero target, it is labeled 25/300. That means that when you zero your weapon at 25 meters, the ballistic path will create identical holes at locations of 25m and 300m. Where the guesswork comes into play is between 25 and 300 where the bullet’s trajectory arches up slowly, then begins to drop quickly. The highest point of that trajectory is at 190m. Of course if you use a 100m zero or an Infantry 200m zero, the ballistic paths and hold points will be very different. The manual, FM 3-22.9 is downloadable from the internet. It has all the detailed info you need for both the weapon and the ammo.
Ive used the T-Rex zero targets before. They work pretty good for the 100yd zero actually. Those 25/100 designed zero targets work a lot better than the 25/50/200 designed zero targets in my experience.
Got mine in 2016 and it’s running great. Got a gen 1 3x vortex spitfire, m-lok extended handguard with vertical grip, and a light. Shoots m193 like a champ.
Remember that rifle is fine as long as it runs if anything fails buy quality parts from known places. As long as the lower and upper are in spec and 7075 aluminum should be good. Just change things as you go.
I'm glad to see some support in the comments for Sig Sauers Romeo 5. It's a great optic that stays zero and is pretty cost friendly. I did have to warranty my first one due to an abnormal connection issue in the selector but they paid shipping and the new one has went through 800 rounds so far and hasn't needed to be re-zeroed at all and the selector hasn't had any issues.
My Romeo5 has been through 3 different rifles, I've had it for two years, no issues 👍🏼 you won't find a better red dot for around $150 and the Holosun clone is good too, my Vortex and Primary Arms (low end) red dots suck, would not recommend them.
A friend of mine runs a romeo5 on just about everything. They have worked out really well for him. I have a sig MSR that has been great but my favorite is my romeo4 s with a circle dot.
Lucas, it's really great to use your platform to educate the new and uninformed. You're a well respected expert in the entire firearms industry. This is selfless and classy. Well done, sir.
I kind of like the method where you imagine you're holding your pistol and aim where you feel most comfy, then look at where and how far out your supporting hand is, and that GENERALLY is a good Ergo spot to put your forward grip.
I watched my homie with his first 5.56 sbr go to the store and buy a cheap red dot on our way to shoot outdoors. no research. thing wouldnt stay on the rifle haha. Imma send him this
@lmgpro buy once cry once. I’m telling you the 1,200-1,800$ range is money. Don’t limit your life. You will regret buying trash. And u will get trash if u buy trash. Get one of those names. Bcm won’t do u wrong. I’m telling u LWRC is amazing. So is DD, noveske and LmT are pricey, but that’s operator level. Up to you. I’m 21 and went straight to high quality and haven’t been disappointed
In the Swiss Army (SIG 550, 20“, 556 Nato) we zero with the 30/300m zero, my private Rifles I did the Zero with 50/200m and what I learnd is: It doesn‘t matter. Choose one, stick to that and train with it
@@Brokkolesz 30 meters and 300 meters. The bullet will be at the same spot. Like throwing a baseball it has an arc, it goes up reaches its highest point then starts to drop back down because gravity. Say you threw it really hard in the air and at were able to throw it 500 meters. at 30 and 300 they would both be at the same height.
The zeroing class should be it’s own video. Very good explanation, I preach zeroing to everyone!!! Btw I love the shade Lucas throws out to cheap gun parts 🤣
100%. When I went through Navy SAMI, we spent a whole day on zeroing. Next day they handed us rifles that had a BZO, and everyone that didnt zero their rifles with 10 rounds got dropped from the class.
I'm not a first time rifle owner. But I am a first time AK owner and I love the "out of box" iron sites that comes with that system. Its quick and accurate. And if I get an optic I'm gonna keep those irons on for a reliable back up.
Your videos are always very well done and informative. I love how you always educate people on the true purpose of the 2A and what every day law abiding citizens should be spending their money on to be prepared.
Also whats super funny is a lot of airsoft accessories if you buy decent ones are ones from regular firearms or are of a similar quality still using the fore grip and light from my airsoft days and they are holding up great
I do recommend the vortex sparc solar. I’ve had it on my truck gun for months now. It’s been banged around used in heat and cold and always held zero. Great entry lvl red dot. Even works decently under nods for passive aiming
Why pay vortex for a holosun when can skip the middle man and buy a holosun lol. Why buy vortex when I can buy the same scope with a better reticle from Primary Arms?
I paid about $180 for my Vortex Spitfire AR prism optic, and I love it so far. It has an etched glass reticle, so my astigmatism isn't an issue and I don't need backup iron sights because it works even without battery power, unlike red dot sights. It came with the mount and everything. I ended up buying the 3x version too. I got them both on sale. I've been thinking about putting my Deltapoint Pro on an AR, because I'm not using it on my Canik TP9SFX because I just don't like that gun. I've gotten too used to my CZ TS2.
As a Veteran of the USMC I think everyone should train and be proficient with irons first! Then get a good optic and train with that. Trust me you can hit a human size target at 500 yards with irons (M16 A2)
This is a phenomenal video. The portion about the 2nd Amendment in the conclusion is a conversation that, in my experience, the vast majority of gun owners need to hear.
I wish I could put one my 10.5"... my FIRST grip was made of aluminum and LOOKS cool, but holy shit it was uncomfortable... the MagPul angled foregrip is SO MUCH BETTER
@@ryanduchaine3994 AFGs are great and it's what I had before the VFG, but there's something about the leverage that you can get with a VFG that feels super good. Plus, some of them have storage compartments in them which I dig.
It baffles me that people don't zero their rifles. The idea of a bullet leaving my barrel and not going exactly (or at least as close to) where I want it to go terrifies me. I always thought it was kind of fun seeing my groups shift over until they are center of where I want it to be.
MSR's are about the cheapest Red dot you can get thats reliable. I regularly see them go for $80-$90, sometimes as low as $70. No reason not to have one if you are on even an extreme budget.
Switching to your secondary grip is always faster than reloading your primary grip.
This comment deserves more praise.
This comment made my day
*backwards secondary grip
😂
😂😂
When the dude shoots the 4 cans and hits 2, then the wind blows the last 2 over, that was the best part of the whole video. The cheesy look of confidence or good enough look on his face was priceless. Reminds me of alot of people in my area...
The actor nailed his part. He's not actually like that, to be clear. :)
5:00
They said down the 4 cans. Are the 4 cans not down?
@@TREXARMS I figured lol. Solid acting, let's see him again in a video with a highpoint pistol...
when the grip fell off
My first ever mistake as a newbie gun owner years ago was accidentally buying a California compliant AR lol.
Ouch
Just gotta build one in Ca to skip the bs
At least it wasn’t vice versa and your not in federal prison
You’re definitely not alone in that lol
You can easily swap out the parts yourself to make it a normal rifle.
After being in the Army for
8yrs in a combat unit, 25m / 300m zero is king. You are basically pinpoint accurate from 0-50m and 250-325m. Everything in between aim a *tad* low. Either way 0-350m if you aim low center mass at a man sized target (without wind) you score a hit.
hard wrong
I’m so glad you said that😅 because for us city boys with indoor ranges sometimes 25m is all we can get
I zero 30-30 to 175 yds. A center hold hits a deer's vital zones from 0-250 yds
Max point blank is less error and gets you the same distance..I mean get some sort of zero for sure, but you’re better off zeroing at a farther distance. The only reason the Army does 25 is because they can’t afford the time or ammo and dont have the space to do a 200 yard zero in austere environments
Is the romeo5 a good red dot to start with?
I’ll never forget my first rifle. A bolt action 5.56 with iron sights so old that it had “Made in West Germany” on the barrel.
Have a 30-06 made in germany in the mid 50's
It gets truely old when you have the test markings from the kingdom of Bavaria.
@@bobuscesar2534 or Franconia
@@ThanxBeToGod
Franconia hasn't been an independent region since the coalition wars.
My first rifle was a Pattern 17 with OG parts. Still works great even on account of it being 105 years old.
I’ve seen this exact configuration on so many Facebook groups
I've seen YOU configuration on Facebook groups...
Bro you have to share 😆
More like Reno Gay
@@leef8433 haha this is so funny, what a great pun, you destroyed him, he will literally never recover from this
AR-15 Nation 😂
My first AR15 was a M&P15 gen 1. I was in the Army so I got it from the PX for $500+ tax free. I converted as much as I can to get it as close to my Army issued M4 so I can improve my marksmanship. 10 years later and 4 other AR's, I still have it and it's my bedside home defense AR.
Yeah an actual war fighter opinion is what really matter not some snob mclovin looking mf
You sound like a real boomer/Fudd. What cringe statement. "I WaS In ThE ArMy".
S&W MP15 is a very good AR. Don't let anyone bull you.
Where were you at? We didn't have guns at our PX at Fort Stewart.
@@tballstaedt7807 yup I tell people the same thing.
Fun tip: if you have iron sights you can adjust your front sight with just a round of 5.56 by using the tip of the bullet to push down the retaining pin. Then just rotate that pin to move it slightly up and down.
I learned that trick in the military
@@TheBlackScatPackit is literally in the M4 carbine user manual
A nail usually works FAR better.
@@harrymallory7963 Sure, but how likely are you to have a nail on hand to adjust it in the field?
@@GoogleDoesEvil I have two now that I keep in my rifle bag. I keep them because I know they work better than so-called front sight tools.
I joined the military without ever owning a gun, I got stationed in Japan and have been watching your videos since. These videos get me so excited to hop into the gun game when I get back to the states. MERICAAA!!
Hopefully you can still buy one when you get back
The traitors in our government, which is most of our government, are working hard to commit treason by dismantling the 2nd and many other amendments.
The politicians are globalists.
@@bundle420 Wouldn't that be a kick in the balls? Serve your country, protecting our rights, can't exercise them yourself when you get back to the States...
If it were up to certain SF Mil guys you wouldn't be able to when you get home....
Talk about cringe
Army teaches 25/300m zero which works extremely well with the 4x32 ACOG. If you zero with the bottom of the chevron for 300m, the top of the chevron will near perfectly line up for 150ish meter targets. That way you’ll never shoot over the target if you can estimate range fairly well.
The width of the elevation ticks is also supposed to approximate average human shoulder width at the labelled range, which helps estimate distance a bit.
Marines teaches 36/300 yard zero which allows no need for any other adjustments besides hold center mass and fire out to 300. After 300 yards we do wind holds out to 500 yards. It allows that at 500 yards your general round drift etc will not expand larger than that of a CD size. Obviously the ammo type will make a difference but essentially holding center mass from 301-500 yrds will enable an effective hit within a CD sized target.
Battlefield 3 and ArmA both taught me how to utilize the ACOG. Then I grew up a little and realized how expensive Trijicon is lol
@@BeamMonsterZeus Facts. As expensive as they are I still want one for my AK in the near future due to their durability. ACOGs are not easy to break.
@@arc_4543 ACOG
ALL CASH OPTIONS GONE
super spendy.
You’re correct they are super tough.
If marines can keep them working, then it’s one tough ass optic.
Loved running the ACOG in the ARMY, loved the Eotech even more.
36/300 zero is the way to go in my opinion 25 yard zero about 1/2” high.
Not technically my first rifle, but my first AR rifle was a PSA carbine kit I bought. All I put on it was a carry handle iron sight, a flashlight mount and a simple vertical foregrip.
No sling?
@@xxxlonewolf49 not at first, that was my first upgrade, I also put an aimpoint on a carry handle optics mount because why not?
My first rifle was a PSA upper kit and a locally sourced lower. Total was $380. Cheaper than any of my handguns. Those were the days. More accurate than I am and over 6200 rounds the only issue has been it won't feed steel case reliably. Meh.
Chad detected. Same but 20 inch
I just built one of those!
That bit on the cheap optics hit me right in the feels. I mounted a $50 open reflex on an ultimak railed gas tube and learned the importance of paying for quality. 12 rounds was all it took to cook that thing.
Yep haha I bought a Chinese Eotech and put it on a ar and it literally flew off the rifle after a couple mags 😂
Not an ar but reminds of the time my buddy bought a red dot for his pistol and the glass blew out on the first mag
we've all been there lol
I forgot the brand. The at I bought came with El cheapo red dot sight. Thing sighted well indoors and stays on the gun. The moment sunlight came outside the dot disappears to the point of being unusable.
Bought a cheap red dot myself a few years ago. Every few shots it would go lose it's zero. Didn't matter what I did, it kept happening.
A quote from Dave Canterbury I heard years ago, "you buy cheap you buy twice."
I went with the vortex Strike fire 2 for my red dot. Awesome optic for the price. I lost my turret cap and emailed the warranty department. They sent me 2 of them and a free hat, all for free. Best lifetime warranty hands down
My first red dot was sight mark, I paid 150 and the thing hasn't lost zero in 3 years, has night vision capability but the battery life sucks dick
What if you were in danger?
You may not be alive to use the warranty.
Buy good optics. I started with a Sight Mark.
@@DronesUnder2A Vortex strikefire was good enough for brenton tarrant
What's wrong with vortex?
Vortex is good for sure.
Not gonna lie, I put a Sig Romeo 5 on my shorty AR and fully expecting to upgrade it later but in 5 years I've had zero issues with it. It's still holding the same zero that I put on it when I first zeroed out. I'm not gentle with that gun either. I'm very pleasantly surprised by how well it's done.
x2 for Sig Romeo 5
Yep
Same here, took it off now for a vortex pst lpvo but it served me extremely well for 3 years…
You gotta realize these guys are a bit elitest and not really the everyman. There are really good red dots from sig, primary arms, and holosun. They all last a long time. In many cases just as long as stuff costing double.
They recommend some great stuff but it is all high end expensive stuff if you aren't a wanna be operator.
@@SW0000A totally agree… they do recommend kind of the best there is but I got to give it to him he did mention primary and holosun as good options.
We all want that DD with a aim point or razor surefire can and dbal but until I get that, I’ll stick with an average gun with a holosun .
"because that would be murder, and murder isnt cool"
-Lucas Botkin
Murder is definitely uncool
Murder is uncool
Oh, well. Lesson learn, thanks stranger!
36 yard zero will always remain my favorite. Out to 300 yards depending on barrel and rounds, you're pretty much shooting inside a cd size.
the marine corps zero, also my personal favorite; pops was force recon and I learned everything about shooting from him
no your drop is bigger than a cd size from just the 36 yards to 300 you are looking at a 7in drop with an 18" barrel and it just gets worse using anything else... If you are aiming at the middle of the target you aren't within a cd you are missing by way more than a cd.
@@thomgizzizno.
Can tell you’ve never actually shot before 😂
Definitely my favorite for SBRs. I am so used to a 25m zero from the army but I'm coming around to it. I now have my 308 on a 36m zero and I'm digging it. I can't believe I ever zeroed a rifle at 100 at this point.
I have had really good results with the Sig Sauer Romeo 5. Even after close to 5 years of use, it has not run into any issues holding zero.
I have two of them. One on my pistol Ar home defense and the other on my ruger 10/22 takedown
I beat the piss out of mine and it’s held up for 2 years.
I've had that 100 dollar sightmark for 5 years and hunted with it several times. Still holds true
Same. Got one on my AK and it has always held up.
Agreed. Mine went from my rifle to my pistol when I went with a prism sight on my rifle.
Could’ve been a Ruger, Bushmaster, or PSA, but y’all just had to pick on us M&P Sport II owners 😒
He's doing new Sport 2 owners a solid. If Lucas used an Anderson, most Sport 2 owners would think he didn't mean them.
YES. And?
@@olysean92 if we are being real, new gun owners probably are not buying an anderson lol
Thats the lower we buy and build just for the heck of it haha
The quality margins between higher end AR15's and Rugers, M&Ps, PSA's and Anderson isn't as much as you think.
Don't bring PSA into this lol. You don't see anyone torture testing a DD or Geiselle the way people beat up the budget guns that still shoot.
One of the things I'm learning as a new AR shooter (after growing up shooting shotguns) is that a 5.56 actually has little to no recoil. When we learned to shoot shotguns, we were always taught to pull the stock into your shoulder firmly otherwise you'd start getting bruised. I notice that I'm doing that when shooting my AR and I really don't need to. The stock seems like it's their to help steady the gun not transfer recoil into your body. Old habits.
Still good to hold tight. Well depends on ar. If its small and light like an m4 atleast yeah.
Little recoil but like 7 pounds it likes to shake
You need an AK haha, I’ve always shot 12 shotguns too so other guns don’t really bother me either
@@outdoorvideoswithbrad AK's are hardly hard recoiling either.
5.56 is only one AR round, there's many more and there's beefy ones that can hurt you.
@@StuninRub ya I never understand why people complain about recoil, I can back on target somewhat quick, I like my AK
As a new ar owner your videos have been the most informative and straightforward with a little bit of comedic smartassery thrown in. I'll be watching everything you have. Great video
I watch for his spikey moussed hair and fashionable skinny jeans. It's badass
I’m so glad the choices were so much more narrow when I built my first AR in 2009. Bushmaster A3 Patrolman’s upper, Doublestar lower, milspec everything on the lower.
State of the art optics at the time was an Aimpoint Comp M3 on a cantilever mount, so that’s what it got. Arms #30L buis, Midwest quad rail & a Surefire G series light topped it off.
So few people had AR’s back then that any time I went to the range it was an attention grabber. Now it rarely gets taken out of the safe because I’ve built much, much better rifles that suit my current needs much more completely. But I’ll never get rid of her, she was my first & I’ll always have a soft spot for her, antiquated though she may be.
Funny back in 2009 ars were the most expensive gun you could have and aks were dirt cheap and saiga's and veprs just started getting popular.
Shit back in the early 90's we were mini 14 guy's because they were only 400 clams but I saved up my money and bought a colt for 1200! When I took that to the range everyone looked... now?... Not so much lol
Same! I even put a Bushmaster gas piston on mine. Worked at Tapco at the time so I kitted it out with their gear. Thing was ridiculous.
I consider myself lucky, did 9 months of research before setting up my first AR
I remember when everyone was running quadrail. 😂
that Glock specific frontgrip is killing me! For those who don´t know: Its designed to put on a glock, and if folded, the extension covers the Trigger, to act as a "Trigger Holster" to prevent the trigger from getting caught on something (Its designed to be used in conjection with a Stock, as a PDW kinda thing, so the Gun is maybe hanging from a sling, thus the triggerprotection may be needed)
Your needs out of an optic can change as time goes on. I have ran the same Vortex spitfire AR 1x for years and finally upgraded to one of the Primary arms 3x microprisms for a little bit of magnification. As new products hit the market it makes sense to grab stuff that fits your needs that maybe wasn't around for a decent price 5+ years ago🤷
I don't know when I got my first AR the first optic was an EOTech. This was back in 2009 timeframe. It was the huge one with the AA battery. I thought it was so cool but looking on forums the one optic that I was immediately interested in the Elcan. I was put off by the price at first but after some time I just got it. I've been using it for the last 10 years now and can't see myself using anything else since I like it so much.
Ran my Vortex Sparc 2 for 2500 rounds on an AR. Than switched it to my AK and ran another 1000 rounds + , what a great optic. Still holding zero.
True...mostly. I spent months finding a used Leopold at a sane price. The long discontinued VX2 1-4x is highly sought after. Not one company has made a 1-4X that light, before or since. It is a mere 8 ounces. Crystal clear and quite robust. Their newer "improved 1-4's are heavier and not as well made with glass, for the $400 price point being no batter than the old VX2's.
I would rather drive a nail through my foot than carry an AR with an Elcan on it. Or any LPVO weighing a POUND or more.
The ONLY exception would be the new(classified) military VORTEX LPVO with the integrated computer and laser range finder. THAT is what I call "cutting edge" of tech/
@@deplorabledave1048 My change was an increase from 1x to 3x and dropped 3.5 ounces if I remember correctly. So the change to modern made sense, that isn't always the case, that Leopold you got is a keeper!
@@breakdown7153
Indeed. When they 1st came out they were $400 notice count. Since they have been discontinued they they routinely sell for the same price on eBay. I watched for years until I found one for $230 right after Christmas when everybody is broke. And then 2 weeks later I found another 1 for $200 new in the Box . I had to buy that one too!
A good pair of irons and a light are really all you need to get proficient and accurate on target.
Everything else comes down to want. Many soldiers shot expert with just irons. These days we have endless choices in the 2A community, which is a very good thing, but your training will always keep you alive. Not fancy gear. Great video. Keep up the great work.
Optics are inherently superior
@@stephenzavatski8016 that’s not the point, training trumps Gucci gear is the point.
You don't really need a light if you are shooting at ranges...
@@thomgizzizobviously….
I got my first nice rifle. Aero lower DD upper 16”barrel quad rail. Came with the DD rear metal sight and fixed FSP. I added a nice sling, surefire turbo light, and I’ve only shot w the irons it’s so much damn fun.
My first AR was a ruger and I put a 3x primary Arms prism and once I had it zeroed in it is boring as fuck to shoot within 200 yards. It never misses.
I’ll use the irons until I decide what I trust my life with as this new rifle is my SHTF do it all rifle.
"This video brought to you by Strike Industries" lol
that one cuts deep😢
I like their dust cover, that’s it
They make some good stuff tho. I love their Ambi mag release and extended bolt catch
I only have a left eye so those little SI attachments make a huge difference for me
Their Glock 19 EMPs work better than Zev's in my experience. I'm just a case study of 1 though, so take that with a grain of salt.
I've made nearly every one of these mistakes (except for not zeroing properly), but I don't necessarily regret making them. As a new shooter, you have to play around with different configurations before deciding what works for you. If you buy top of the line lights/optics/accessories every time you change up your configuration, you'll be spending boatloads. Play around with different options with some cheaper components until you find something that you like and works for you, and then shell out some good cash for quality components.
This comment needs more thumbs up
This is the exact thing I have done
Exactly. I intentionally bought the cheapest, most ridiculous all-in-one setup off Amazon when I first bought my AR. I wasn't looking for quality. I was just looking to see if I wanted to spend real money on a dot, a scope or even a laser, light ir laser/light combo.
Now on my Sig Cross .308 I have a big Vortex scope that cost more than my first AR did, on my original M&P Sport II I've changed out literally everything but the striped lower, bare upper and barrel but I'm running a 1-6x LVPO with backup itons that I love on that gun with a simple angled foregrip and light. Even changed out the grip, stock and every other part with lightweight components because it's my go-to rifle. Solidly dependable.
Other guns get other stuff. Like my Kel-Tec S2k got the full MCarbo treatment and a Stalk-tek laser. It's fun as heck, reliable, and can be folded into a backpack. It has a vertical foregrip just because the placement of the laser's pressure switch is ideal.
So, yeah, try cheap stuff so you learn what you like and then buy good stuff.
One thing he didn't mention in the video was the trigger. Biggest improvement to me was a good, single stage, light weight trigger. I'm now to a 3 lb pull on my AR and no gun is over 4.5 lbs in my safe. My groupings are far better that way.
As to keeping it level: he mentioned technique but I didn't catch the most important part: pull the gun into your shoulder. That'll keep you from getting bruised by larger caliber guns and keep the muzzle down.
When the sightmark goes on, it's gonna be a party
The very first sight I had on my AR was a cheap Chinese reflex/red dot. It worked fine and never lost zero, but the brightness/color selector got a little messed up from recoil. Bought my first legit sight from cabelas, it was a Sig SAUER Romeo 5. It worked fantastically and I’m still using it to this day. And finally I just bought an Eotech EXPS2-2 the other day, delivers tomorrow. Putting that on my AR and the Romeo 5 is going on one of my other guns, haven’t decided which yet.
Sig Romeo is probably the best option for the first AR, inexpensive but reliable and gets the job done. Especially since, on the first one, most people probably aren't trying to break the bank
my first AR is the exact same model in this video, and the very first part that's worth replacing is the foregrip. it's plastic and gets crazy hot. replaced it with a Magpul for like $30. after that, i saved up a little and picked up a Sig Romeo5 and still run it to this day. it's simple, but has been incredibly reliable for me. don't have any plans to replace it anytime soon. obviously, there are better optics out there, but it's more than adequate for my uses.
now i'm trying to save up to replace the BUIS i currently have with a set of Troy HKs...
Lucas, I must say that I whole heartedly agree with your statement “buying your firearm for your 2A rights.” If you’re buying to exercise 2A, then it needs to truly be 2A capable.
aka it needs to be able to be put to service on a battlefield. 2A was literally to guarantee civilian access to weapons of war.
Lucas. You're dead on in your conclusion. The purpose of the 2nd Amendment is to have the capabilities of a modern infantryman. Not many truly understand this statement and the rifle is merely a part of that.
He also called the ar-15 a "assault weapon" maybe he didnt know assault is verb not a noun. Fucking Larper....
We need tax stamped javelins and frags.
@@BereanBeliever86 tax stamp for what?
@@Sgunner88 I was joking, I actually do not think civilians should have rocket launchers and grenades or nukes.
@@BereanBeliever86 Then you’re not actually for the 2A then...
first time buyer this year, went with a diamondback db15 and a small $300 holosun red dot and irons. simple magpul foregrip and a sling. im glad to hear i only went halfway nooby getting into rifles. its been very fun learning how to shoot and clean it so far
I love diamondback. Never used them for anything serious but I was really surprised by their quality for the price
My first ar was a diamondback 4 years ago. Honestly I love that gun and it never jammed on me or had any problems
I love Diamondback. The newest ones are looking to be even better than ever. They are not your highest dollar stuff, but also not a joke.
I love Diamondback. The newest ones are looking to be even better than ever. They are not your highest dollar stuff, but also not a joke.
@@jhutch1470 from what i researched about them, they seem still relatively new to the game as well but like this comment thread, i saw so many positive reviews for their db15 series. a friend has a db10, swears by it. it really convinced me so i went with diamondback. got the db15 for $700 and the only problem i have had is myself getting used to it.
i also REALLY like that their youtube channel invites potential customers to essentially meet them and their product. feels really down to earth and american made. left an impression on me without busting my wallet as a beginner.
The backwards angled grip got me pretty good
The dude playing the newbie had me rolling.
"Woww, that's a good one"
"And it's only 50 bucks? Hhhey dad"
You can get a sig msr for $80, or a Romeo 5 for $120. On either one you replace the mount and you have a solid setup for cheap.
I was disappointed in battery life in my sig msr and Rome 5, then double disappointed and thought the Romeo 5 died. Ended up being the Energizer batteries I bought were all crap.
I did discover the msr gives me better fit with my astigmatism over the Romeo 5.
Like my Romeo 5 as well. Essentially, it's a rebranded holosun.
@@warrenharrison9490 I have both and can confirm that the msr plays slightly better with an astigmatism.
As far as battery life goes, I've left both on for months at a time and never had either die on me. The Romeo 5 has shake awake which helps
I have both, and run them on 22lr builds. I personally wouldn’t run them on anything other than a range toy. Also ran the MSR on a 6” pcc and it did fine.
The Sig Romeo 5X is my favorite entry level RDS. It’s durable and reliable.
Not sure if you're serious or this is a joke because Lucas has mentioned it sucks in the "Can you build a rifle under for $1000" video. I haven't had any issues with mine and it moves to new rifles as I get better ones, but I do know a few people who started "having issues with zero" after he posted that video. Kinda funny how that works.
Do not get this RDS if you have astigmatism fyi
I have a lot of budget rds my favorite is the bushnell tsr26! very durable for a cheap dot got it from psa for 99$.
@@Bordsteinstampfen_Yeshua lol you have a bad experience with the 5? Ain't great for mine either lol.
@@Fourty5 Lucas is an arrogant elitist snob who is upset that any optic under $500 can be good, which is why he hates the perfectly good and affordable Romero 5.
The one saving grace I had as an AR-15 builder was I was a trained Unit Armorer - attending Small Arms Armorer course in the Army. And one of my buds was an actual trained Gunsmith and another a senior armorer.
Still I still had to learn on my own that not to cheap out.
And I always do iron sights first. Always.
But learning never stops.
Irons first, agree
In my experience the sig Romeo 5 and 7 have been great entry level optics
Agreed. It holds its ground against many mid tier red dot systems on the market. Very surprised he didnt mention Sig.
@@corey552 He hates Sig cause China...
Agree 💯 Romeo5 red dots are dam good for 125$ !!
same. love my Romeo 5's ... Iron sights align perfectly cowitness....on about every rifle whether primary on top or cantilevered on 308's
Bought a Romeo 7s from PSA for $114
I worked at an indoor range and heres some of the common things that make my eye twitch: $15 optics with no riser on an ar, bipods with red dots, $10,000 worth of gear and zeroing a lpvo at 5 yds... we need more videos like this.
Enlighten me, what’s issue with bipod in conjunction with a red dot?
@@guins99 right I want to know the same thing lol
"bipods with red dots"
Are you people serious? Bipods and red dots? Do you guys know what the purpose of a bipod is? Do you know what the purpose of a red dot is? That's like putting Super Swampers on a Lambo. The whole point of a bipod is stabilization from prone for long range shooting. Red dots aren't for long range shooting. Yes, you can put magnifiers on there, but there are still better options out there than that, like any decent LPVO or prism scope.
"$10,000 worth of gear and zeroing a lpvo at 5 yds"
Those are the kind of people that, when shit hits the fan, are going to be referred to as 'loot boxes.'
@@stupidanon5941 “are you people serious”. Honest questions from people willing to learn shouldn’t earn such a shitty reply. Get over yourself joe hardcore…
Great video. Older videos concerning lights completely changed the way I set up guns. All of my weapons have them now.
What I found out with the AR stock setting was that sometimes I might have to rest the stock against arm instead of shoulder, so the stock had to be set not too long or short for a good grip and stability. This happens when you really got to stretch out for around a corner shot, not to mention if you can only use one hand. Once I instinctively did it when having to run and shoot behind around my left (I'm right handed) and after that I realised the stock was actually resting against the arm instead of shoulder. It was a good run.
I watch this channel to understand what to do and not to do. Thank God we are in the same body build so they seem to work for me every day
Good guy right here… careful on those depositions with the snake lawyers
I just had a revelation that I was totally oblivious to the convergence point. Tried to zero in my red dot on my first carbine (KR9) and was weirded out why I was laying perfect 10s at 25 meters and then it was landing center mass at 100 meters, but at 50 it was almost at the head level. Next range session I'll recalibrate the red dot. Incredible.
Most people don't realize that bullets actually fly in a parabolic arc due to the spin. They don't just come out and drop. They come out, the centripetal force of the bullet spins to the right, causing it to go up and then it eventually drops back down. It caused the bullet to do exactly what you just described.
At extreme distances, if you aim at the center of a target, what actually will happen is the bullet will come out, arc up, drop back down, while continuing to spin of course and as the bullet loses velocity, the spin of the bullet will cause it to left up and to the right so your shot will land nowhere near where you were originally aiming. Barring all other factors (like wind drift), compensating for "bullet drop" isn't enough at long range.
@@BullsMahunny everything you said is wrong. Did you even watch the video? He literally explains the convergence.
I’ve been wanting to purchase my first rifle for a few months now, but I decided to do research and look into these topics beforehand. I’m glad I did or else I would’ve wasted a lot of money down the road. I’m glad Lucas made this video for newcomers just like me and get this information out there. You’re saving money & informative.
Good on you for planning ahead.
Give yourself/save up enough of a budget to buy solid, meat and potatoes stuff. Vortex, Daniel Defense, Eotech, and Holosun have always worked well for me.
Your gun, your call.
As an Unarmed Individual, ive always wondered how Zeroing worked, since your sight is aiming in a straight line while your round is travelling in an arc. thanks for the explaination
I started off with that very same rifle. Upgraded the red dot to a sig romeo 5, later to an lpvo.
Changed the gas block to a low profile MI gasblock and handguard to a 15 icnh free float MI mlok handguard. A 2AA pencil barrel with a 1:8 twist with mid length gas system. Bcm stock, magpul grip, bcm bcg, added a inforce light and magpul handstop. Soon to be a bcm kag just cuz i wanna try it.
Looks bad ass, i got a compliment today from the gunshop. Told me im one of the few people who set their rifle up correctly and i did a perfext job installing everything.
Made me feel good.
You lost me at inforce
@@levihuckabee6407 is it a bad light?
@@James-cr5mc in my honest opinion yes. My buddy bought one (he sets up his guns like the one in the video) and compared to the streamlights, surefires, cloud defensive, and arisaka stuff it's garbage. Once you try a high quality light you'll never go back. An entry level streamlight is around $100 and honestly isn't too bad. I'm saving for an arisaka.
@@levihuckabee6407 ill have to check them out
@@James-cr5mc good luck brother
I live in Germany and im a hunter. In the course taht we had to take before the test to get the license we got taught that hitting 4cm high on 100m is the best option for Germany. With that you have the 50/200 septup wich allows you to aim dead center at almost every piece of bigger game without worrying about the point of impact
No love for Vortex Optics???
I've had one on one of my builds for years now and its always worked well.
Great customer service and warranty
I personally love Vortex. Mine have held up great and I'm extremely hard on them.
Thanks for not making a "if you dont have a surefire and Eotech on your HK youre going to die" video
Imagine running the backwards AFG...
GFA
Saw it done on a Sci fi TV show, such cringe.
Imagine running an AFG…
@@kyleg1166 If someone wanted to follow US law...
Lmfao!
My first optic was a SIG Tango and it has treated me well. Great LPVO for a great price, held zero after removal as well
Bought my son a Tango and I use a Strike Eagle on my Grendel. Love the LVPO.
I just purchased one for my first rifle, glad to hear that it's not shit. haha
My son spent his birthday money on an Osprey gun show special.
$200 burned. We went to the range for his birthday. The vertical adjustment made a J. Never ever buy Osprey. I ended up buying him a vortex that day. It cost more than the rifle.
Basically, everything in this video boils down to "buy once, cry once" - which is the right mentality.
My Dad keeps buying the cheapest crap out there, and wonders why it breaks. He's spent so much on low-quality items that he could have easily purchased an EoTech or more affordable Aimpoint lol. He loves his Hi-Points...even though the 3 Hi-Point firearms he has keep jamming, stovepiping, or straight up breaking. But he swears by them.
Thank God he actually got a Taurus (can't believe I'm saying that lol) to carry. At least it hasn't jammed once...yet.
Bro high quality products like my authentic stream light railmount HL-X for $200. It’s little rubber piece inside of the light is garbage just one disassemble/assemble and it’s basically already trashed it’s all ripped apart. I got a Springfield armory ar15 16” with just moe hand guard. I currently have ^^^that light as mentioned above the:
STREAMLIGHT HL-X - $200
Lantac compensator - $150
Magpul bipod - $150
Magpul SL-K adjustable stock - $65
1 x Magpul 60rd drum (unpinned. I live in the unconstitutional law breaking California *not paying a fortune for an actually *REAL*, high capacity magazine) - $200
-CMC Single Stage Flat faced 2.5lb
Trigger - $200
-Romeo6 Juliet3 combo Red dot sight & magnifier - $300
-stupid juggernaut hell fighter cali comp. Mod *literally useless as all hell. Adds less than a second to my reload of my standard 30rd mags well any mag but I’m trying to state the fact THIRTY ROUND MAGS ARE NOT LARGE CAPACITY*!!!
I will actually be remove and going back to the standard mag release hate not being able to lock my bolt back it’s so “unsafe” 😂💀💀💀💀💀**** California
Hi points are absolutely shit. Waste of money and can get something a lot better for a little more. Taurus has stepped their game up and are pretty reliable now
@@Camopar87 that's...basically what I said. 😂 But agreed.
I had a Hipoint carbine for almost 20 years, most reliable gun I ve ever owned till it burned up in a house fire, and impressively accurate. I ve never had one of the hideous pistols but the guys I know who have had no serious issues
@@ST19859 I wouldnt hate to own a carbine honestly.
This is a great vid for a beginner. Wish I would’ve had someone like this! I definitely made some of these mistakes 8-9 years ago when I got my first AR. The mistake I didn’t make was buying a crappy gun though. I wanted something solid, so I got a colt le6920 for my first ar and played around with crappy optics and scopes until I finally learned what makes a 400-500 dollar optic actually worth that price. Now I run an Eotech and have an even better rifle that I build (and still have the colt)
I think we ALL did this in the very beginning...but thats the fun of the journey. Me personally...every time i think about how bad my first 2 builds were (16" carbine, 7.5" pistol 2014) compared to the stuff im doing almost 10 yrs later, i get a really good chuckle. Then i smile inside because now i "get it" 🫡 keep learning
yeah I wish I watched a video like this when I got my first AR, learned most of it slowly though practicing shooting and getting a tip here or there. For a long time I only had iron sights on my first AR, and got a Sig Romeo5 as my first red dot, which is the bare minimum. I prefer Primary Arms Microprims now
My first red dot for my AR was Sig Sauer Romeo7 still holding on strong after few years, its budget friendly and accurate…
Got that a few months ago actually! I love it! Keeps zero very well
Same here but haven't had time to zero it.
Solid vid. Speaking of foregrips, a few years ago I seen a video with Travis Haley and he said a good way to find the proper location was to shoulder the rifle (stock properly adjusted of course) with your dominant hand/arm, close your eyes, and reach/grab the handgaurd with your support hand to the point that feels the most natural, and that's where your foregrip should be. It worked for me and a couple other people who I had try it 🤷♂️
That’s how we’ve always setup our rifles when we use a fire grip or lights. If it comes naturally you’ll do it without thinking when you don’t have time to think.
Thanks Lucas, this really helped understanding so much of the tech and mechanics without having to learn everything from scratch. I will say, in all my experimenting, at least I have NOT used channel locks on any weapon. Internally I screamed "NOOOOO!!!" when I saw those channel locks in action. Ugh, that was good theatrics.
The 2A speech at the end was on point 🇺🇲
Makes me feel a little better about my first BCM 14.5 build with romeo5 and hlx light purchase in 2019.. that rifle now has a modlite and an ACOG! The build with a plan to upgrade is the way
The AR-15 accessory market is vast. Got my first AR 4yrs ago. It was an Aero build. I now have a safe full of AR rifles and accessories. It’s kinda addictive.
@lmgpro I think so but I bought one of their complete uppers and built a lower! It was a zev forged lower actually!
Please do the same video for plate carriers. I see tons of people with cheap stuff who don’t understand why it isn’t good. Keep up the great content
$25 field sport clone of that multi radical Red Dot you showed. First Red Dot I ever bought. I've had that on 22s, AR is in 556, and a Mosin to go in 7.62x54r.
I'm not saying I recommend it. But cheap crap can sometimes be worth it.
I've had good luck with fieldsport, CVlife, and monstrum.
My current is a Monstrum Banshee MPVO 2-10x34. It's amazing.
Thought I knew everything until I watched this. Specifically the adjustable stock advice I found to be immensely helpful and everything else is right on the money. Great video
people can nitpick gear, but I agree, that stock setting info was great.
Love the backwards AFG lmao
The guy putting his setup together was like "this'll work🤓"
Loving the content dude! Always great work
I was starting to think I had mine backwards after seeing how he had his 😂😂 so I was reading the comments to see if anyone noticed it 😂😂
Not new to rifles, but really good to review in any case. I think it's great for new shooters, and always no nonsense, practical use.
I got steel magpul iron sights for about 150 and they are amazing. Definitely best decision I made for my 300 blackout 7.5 inch
For lights, I mostly stick to Streamlight.
The quality vs price seems to peak out there.
I would disagree. Streamlight are the lowest end of good but their candela leaves much to be desired. It can be said they do well for their lumens but a Cloud or a Modlite has substantially better candela which is the most important aspect of a light meant for identifying threats before ventilating them.
Agreed
These kind of videos are invaluable pools of knowledge as someone that lives in the UK and wouldn't get these kind of tips/hints otherwise! Cheers mate!
Island nations get evaded all the time. Keep your chin up, there's always hope you'll need this mayhem mitigation information.
@@samhellion I took up airsoft shortly after the 'does it transfer' video. I play with some old mates/veterans and we work on ourselves and have fun at the same time. Gotta take what you can, right?
Kinda makes me sad to hear but I get it. Airsoft is still pretty though, not gonna lie.
So I've seen the "Daniel Defense extendo-grip" jokes all over but having worked in the industry there is a simple explanation. It is done with a purpose. Most manufacturer's that include a grip of some sort simply put it in a rough midpoint of the rail. Most end users never customize it for optimum ergonomics and just leave it there. Hell, more than a few probably do not even know you can adjust it. DD places the grip at the extreme end of the rail so that you are forced to fit it to your needs as the individual shooter. Sure they could just throw it in the box and achieve the same ends, but can't include it in photos that way. You don't have to agree with or like the explanation but it is their thinking and in no way was the grip meant to be utilized in that placement....
Have the m&p15 too. Holosun aems RD, Vortex mini magnifier, timney trigger, strike Industries handguard and safety. Magpul handgrip. MFT butstock. Streamlight. Harris bipod. B&T bipod adapter. Blacktrident sling. Barrel shortened to 10.5“…it’s my first Ar15
I just came out of military service and the amount of guys running their foregrip at the dead front of the rail actually started to blow my mind, only me and few others had the common knowledge of ergonomics but the rest insisted their set up was best - full length stock and grip all the way out to the front. Started to get on my nerves XD
I played around with the location on my foregrip and stock to get them where they felt good before I screwed the front down. If I ever buy another AR I’m going to build this one for portability and lighter weight
ikr? it's so common with the "tacticool" clowns these days, it irks me as well. In the Army, we used a mid length foregrip (forearm at/near 45° angle), long enough for good support, but still short enough to tuck in and brace elbow on carrier for precise shots.
all these wacky foregrips, hold locations, overhanded holds, etc. might work for the weekend warrior youtubers; but ergonomics, comfort, support, etc. definitely take precedence when you're humping 90+ pounds of gear on a patrol engaging targets that actually shoot back...
@@wildbill6976 exactly, and then they wonder why their arms are fatigued way too fast and why their groupings are wider than the Nile is long.
I’m not the best at shooting, I don’t practice enough, but I set up my first AR with what felt comfortable. Lot of guys I served with were trying to give me 15 different things of advice about what should go where. But it feels like the ergonomics of a lot of weapons is fairly intuitive. The only thing I didn’t know was where was the best placement for an optic.
We all have to start somewhere as it goes for equipment, but training is essential regardless of what tier you're currently at. I still remember starting from Delton/PSA to now BCMs and Sig MCX Virtus or from Olight to now Surefire... Thanks Lucas! 🤙🏽
Oo
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So much hate on OLights lol. I still use them on my guns. Last thing I really need to change on them. But they work so no rushing to spend a ton of money on surefire.
I really love that backwards angled grip and then the vertical grip. If it was a grip-pod Id be sold.
I'd seen a post on Facebook where some guy had both an angled and vertical grip, claimed the angled grip gave him a faster "aim down sight speed" up close and that the vertical grip was for "down range shooting".
I could have used this video back when I put together my first AR.
Former Infantry Drill Sergeant here. Here are your holds when using a 25/300 zero and shooting at a torso sized E-type silhouette:
25-center mass
50-center mass
100-center mass
150-belly button
200-belt buckle
250-belly button
300-center mass
Hint: with a 25/300 zero, the apex of the trajectory is at 190m.
So for all my former army vets out there who recall the old saying “aim low get a go”, this is what they were talking about.
In the heat of firing, we tend to start aiming between the shoulders rather than keeping it center mass.
You missed a c on the maximum ordinate of the 5.56. It should read 1.9cm not 19m. 2 cm is about 5 inches 19m is about 65 feet.
@@jasonwitcher2594 Are you sure you are on the correct thread? What are you saying?
My DS taught my to hold my red dot slightly above the head to get clean 300m head shots due to trajectory. Why would you aim lower at further ranges?
@@blackhawk7r221 are you saying the max height of the round is 190m or occurs at 190m meters? It appears you are saying 190m
@@jasonwitcher2594 For 5.56 specifically, when you use a military zero target, it is labeled 25/300. That means that when you zero your weapon at 25 meters, the ballistic path will create identical holes at locations of 25m and 300m. Where the guesswork comes into play is between 25 and 300 where the bullet’s trajectory arches up slowly, then begins to drop quickly. The highest point of that trajectory is at 190m.
Of course if you use a 100m zero or an Infantry 200m zero, the ballistic paths and hold points will be very different.
The manual, FM 3-22.9 is downloadable from the internet. It has all the detailed info you need for both the weapon and the ammo.
Ive used the T-Rex zero targets before. They work pretty good for the 100yd zero actually. Those 25/100 designed zero targets work a lot better than the 25/50/200 designed zero targets in my experience.
The S&W had been a great Entry AR no problems so far. I was able to save money to get a holosun 510, 2 point sling, flash light.
Got mine in 2016 and it’s running great. Got a gen 1 3x vortex spitfire, m-lok extended handguard with vertical grip, and a light. Shoots m193 like a champ.
Remember that rifle is fine as long as it runs if anything fails buy quality parts from known places. As long as the lower and upper are in spec and 7075 aluminum should be good. Just change things as you go.
"Entry AR" what a stupid term. The S&W MP15 is a good AR. Likely way better than you will ever need.
Could’ve saved a bit more and bought quality. But OK poor.
@@sevenpointsixtwo9707 Oh look. Another gun snob…
That operation gothic serpent era CAR15 is badass! #blackhawkdown #dboys
I'm glad to see some support in the comments for Sig Sauers Romeo 5. It's a great optic that stays zero and is pretty cost friendly. I did have to warranty my first one due to an abnormal connection issue in the selector but they paid shipping and the new one has went through 800 rounds so far and hasn't needed to be re-zeroed at all and the selector hasn't had any issues.
My Romeo5 has been through 3 different rifles, I've had it for two years, no issues 👍🏼 you won't find a better red dot for around $150 and the Holosun clone is good too, my Vortex and Primary Arms (low end) red dots suck, would not recommend them.
A friend of mine runs a romeo5 on just about everything. They have worked out really well for him. I have a sig MSR that has been great but my favorite is my romeo4 s with a circle dot.
Lucas, it's really great to use your platform to educate the new and uninformed. You're a well respected expert in the entire firearms industry. This is selfless and classy. Well done, sir.
Get off his sack bruh
The best optic I got for my AR-15 is the one I got initially SiG Romeo 5. An affordable but fantastic optic.
I kind of like the method where you imagine you're holding your pistol and aim where you feel most comfy, then look at where and how far out your supporting hand is, and that GENERALLY is a good Ergo spot to put your forward grip.
New vid just got yoinked with a quickness
I watched my homie with his first 5.56 sbr go to the store and buy a cheap red dot on our way to shoot outdoors. no research.
thing wouldnt stay on the rifle haha. Imma send him this
Glad i watched this before i got my red dot, now i just want a good acog next 😎
I'm gonna be getting my first rifle probably within the next week or so. So this video came out at a good time.
If you aren't sure, find a local gunsmith. They can help you.
LWRC mAkes amazing rifles. And DD .
@lmgpro yes. Either one, bcm lwrc, DD, noveske, Lmt, radian, Larue u can’t go wrong with
@lmgpro buy once cry once. I’m telling you the 1,200-1,800$ range is money. Don’t limit your life. You will regret buying trash. And u will get trash if u buy trash. Get one of those names. Bcm won’t do u wrong. I’m telling u LWRC is amazing. So is DD, noveske and LmT are pricey, but that’s operator level. Up to you. I’m 21 and went straight to high quality and haven’t been disappointed
In the Swiss Army (SIG 550, 20“, 556 Nato) we zero with the 30/300m zero, my private Rifles I did the Zero with 50/200m and what I learnd is: It doesn‘t matter. Choose one, stick to that and train with it
What does 30/300 mean?
@@Brokkolesz 30 meters and 300 meters. The bullet will be at the same spot. Like throwing a baseball it has an arc, it goes up reaches its highest point then starts to drop back down because gravity. Say you threw it really hard in the air and at were able to throw it 500 meters. at 30 and 300 they would both be at the same height.
@@Dirtkid98505 Yeah I commented before the video got to that part. Damn
The zeroing class should be it’s own video. Very good explanation, I preach zeroing to everyone!!! Btw I love the shade Lucas throws out to cheap gun parts 🤣
100%. When I went through Navy SAMI, we spent a whole day on zeroing. Next day they handed us rifles that had a BZO, and everyone that didnt zero their rifles with 10 rounds got dropped from the class.
I'm not a first time rifle owner. But I am a first time AK owner and I love the "out of box" iron sites that comes with that system. Its quick and accurate. And if I get an optic I'm gonna keep those irons on for a reliable back up.
Can’t beat the reliability
Perfectly fine with iron sights & a good scope on my rifle cause it works & has worked for me for 30 years.
I'd recommend the eotech 512 as a starting one because you can get em for like $300 on ebay and they take easy to source batteries.
Great video tho
Drain batteries like nuts though
Vortex is good for like 250
@@austindiaz6767 Sig, Holosun, Vortex all good options
That is my first optic and I train with it all the time. Now I use the exps 3 and night vision shoot,
Can never go wrong with a 512
Your videos are always very well done and informative. I love how you always educate people on the true purpose of the 2A and what every day law abiding citizens should be spending their money on to be prepared.
Also whats super funny is a lot of airsoft accessories if you buy decent ones are ones from regular firearms or are of a similar quality still using the fore grip and light from my airsoft days and they are holding up great
I do recommend the vortex sparc solar. I’ve had it on my truck gun for months now. It’s been banged around used in heat and cold and always held zero. Great entry lvl red dot. Even works decently under nods for passive aiming
Gt a sparc vortex had it for several yrs
Vortex Spitfire 1x also works great. Etched reticle, so if the battery dies, you still have a reticle.
I'd recommend anything vortex. I have mine on an AK and it holds zero like a champ
Why pay vortex for a holosun when can skip the middle man and buy a holosun lol. Why buy vortex when I can buy the same scope with a better reticle from Primary Arms?
I paid about $180 for my Vortex Spitfire AR prism optic, and I love it so far. It has an etched glass reticle, so my astigmatism isn't an issue and I don't need backup iron sights because it works even without battery power, unlike red dot sights. It came with the mount and everything. I ended up buying the 3x version too. I got them both on sale. I've been thinking about putting my Deltapoint Pro on an AR, because I'm not using it on my Canik TP9SFX because I just don't like that gun. I've gotten too used to my CZ TS2.
That 100 meter zero is like selecting the “inverted” aim/steering options in games lol
As a Veteran of the USMC I think everyone should train and be proficient with irons first!
Then get a good optic and train with that. Trust me you can hit a human size target at 500 yards with irons (M16 A2)
Damn right
I remember qualifying many years ago on the m16 with irons and then watching the new kids come in and do it with acogs. Damn cheaters 😂
I agree
As long as they are wearing contrasting colors to the environment around them-and stand still with zero movement…
@justin cooper remember optics can break or batteries die. Sole reliance on optics is a death wish
This is a phenomenal video. The portion about the 2nd Amendment in the conclusion is a conversation that, in my experience, the vast majority of gun owners need to hear.
I started out not thinking vertical grips were very useful until someone gave me one then I loved it and had to reconfigure all my guns with them.
I wish I could put one my 10.5"... my FIRST grip was made of aluminum and LOOKS cool, but holy shit it was uncomfortable... the MagPul angled foregrip is SO MUCH BETTER
@@ryanduchaine3994 AFGs are great and it's what I had before the VFG, but there's something about the leverage that you can get with a VFG that feels super good. Plus, some of them have storage compartments in them which I dig.
Best instructor on UA-cam! Thank you for all you do!
I gotta say man the Sig Romeo MSR does the job quite nicely, plus paired with the Juliet magnifier, nice little piece of kit.
Been thinkin bout picking up one myself
It baffles me that people don't zero their rifles. The idea of a bullet leaving my barrel and not going exactly (or at least as close to) where I want it to go terrifies me. I always thought it was kind of fun seeing my groups shift over until they are center of where I want it to be.
couldn't agree more man, zeroing and cleaning are honestly probably more satisfying that shooting some days, at least for me.
I like the SIG MSR. I have 2 of them, one on a 5.56 and one on a .308. they are cheap and well built for an entry level red dot.
MSR's are about the cheapest Red dot you can get thats reliable. I regularly see them go for $80-$90, sometimes as low as $70.
No reason not to have one if you are on even an extreme budget.