Ford 7.3 Powerstroke- Rough Running [IPR replacement]
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2020
- 1999 to 2003 7.3 liter Powerstroke Ford diesel truck with IPR problems MUST watch this video! Whats up & Welcome back. Thanks so much for tuning in this week. I hope in the video you all get to hear the noise change that this engine made Before & After replacing the IPR valve. Drop me a line in the comment section below and tell me if anyone has had to replace their IPR valve or if they have a special tool! LIKE - SUBSCRIBE - SHARE See you next Friday, DUCES
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@PTT_W_AROD
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Ah yes, back when diesels sounded the way god intended...
Love my 7.3 & 6.7
It cracks me up that you keep showing that new Super Duty every chance you get. We 7.3 lovers wouldn't trade ours for it, regardless how nice it looks.
"we" lmaoo ill take that new one over my 7.3 otherwise I wouldn't be on this video..
Minimal sensors and easier to work on compared to todays vehicles. Both of my trucks are 2002 f series. 02 f150 xlt 4.6 2wd with 4x4 lift in the rear, aftermarket remote start with start stop button (no ignition key cylinder) aftermarket digital transmission temp gauge, touchscreen double din radio, all terrain rear tires, curved light bar behind grille and on front bumper and dual flag poles in the bed. Now for the cherry on top...02 f350 xl 7.3 turbo diesel, light bar on front bumper, double din touch screen radio, flush mount back up lights, led: headlights, turn signals ( front and rear) cargo lights, clearance lights (smoked), custom smoked leds added to grille to match cab over leds, hideaway gooseneck ball in bed...more mods coming soon. With all mods to both trucks, its still cheaper than buying a "throw away" vehicle being made today😂
I'm loving my 7.3! Just bought early 99 F450.. I'm restoring her back to new.. Truck pays for itself
You are obviously a very knowledgeable Master Technician. While I really don't appreciate the "relic" and "turd" slurs for our beloved and venerable "old" 7.3, I DO appreciate your level of workmanship and ability to properly diagnose and repair the old boy. Thank you for the video as it helps us DIY'ers understand what's involved with the process of this repair.
🙏
Haha, I'm having this problem right now and turd has slipped outta my mouth, along with many other slurs. I just spent a pretty penny on injectors and I get a knock knock, and I don't know who's there.
I've been enjoying the 7.3 and learning all about it after getting the F550 work truck. Been a very good truck and could not ask for more.
My only recommendation would be if you want us to hear something you should put the kibosh on the Kids Bop dance beat.
Love my 2000 f250 7.3 4x4 flatbed with 414,971 miles. I've learned so much about this diesel engine (my 1st to own). I will not attempt to replace the IPR, I learned how to properly replace the IPC ? about 6 mos ago. Was told to replace IPR and IPC at the same time because replacing one always dictates replacing the other fairly soon after. I got lazy and didn't do it so tomorrow IPR replacement...Here I come! Great video, thank you for showing us the symptoms while running because that's exactly how my engine was running. Loud knockout with constant hesitations Especially when AC on.
Correction...I will NOW* attempt
I have an 01 F350 and I did that replacement because of rough idle and cutting off when stopped. It was a pain but it fixed it. Been a year now. Enjoy your videos. Thanks
I have 3 of those relics 96, 98 and 2001, all stock and running great!
What all have you had to do to the 01?
Huh?
I just bought my first 7.3 in a shuttle bus. I live in Florida and drove it to Montana on a trip. Drive it a total of 6400 miles on a fresh oil and filter change (not the fuel filter, yes, I should have). Got about 1500 and it started losing power. Seemed starved for fuel. I'd let it sit a couple of hours and it would run fine. After some 7.3 videos I decided it was the 2 tank filters. 35 gallon tank and it seems to run better with a full tank. I completed the trip and got it home, but I noticed excessive clatter. I don't have a reader, but after your video, I'll be replacing that valve. Thanks.
Yes yes yes !!! I have Bree the 7🌲 and please keep the videos coming !! We need all the help we can get out here. Thanks bro
If you crack open hpop reservoir nut you can suck out the oil in it so when you take ipr off no mess!
Good video ARod haven't heard the noise of a 7.3 in a long time. Nice job thanks
Right on OLD FAITHFUL 7.3 keep them videos coming
Oooooo yah brother man! Love me some old school 7.3 content. This is EXACTLY why I change the oil more often, I feel like if you let the get oil and worn out it just messes up the injection system and all the other junk that goes with it. I still have the OG IPR on my piece and it's almost at 200k. I hope I didn't jinx myself now, lol! Have a good weekend brah, we need to catch up!
I knw we doooo
Love the 7.3 content, I know they are old but I love mine. Anyway the way I do it is pull some oil out through the cap on top, then quick swap like your idea to minimize mess. Also I don’t even know if you can get them anymore, but I use these adapters that go into the 1/2” drive of the socket that have a hex head on them so it basically puts a bolt head on the end of the socket you can get a wrench on, requires slightly less space than a ratchet, but enough to help
I’m picking up a 99 4 door lariat f250 this evening and this will help me fix the part that needs replaced. Thank you awesome video
Congrats on da purchase
Thanks for a OLD truck on the show, I have 2 7.3's. Keep the vids coming
Thanks bud
I also have 2 wonderful 7.3s! Running amazing btw!
Thanks for sharing guy
How much did you sell it for cuz I'm looking for a low mileage 7.3
I just did an IPR on a 95 today. It had a torn o-ring. The symptom was a slightly extended crank with no throttle response for a few seconds after start up. I compared the ICP pressure while cranking to a known good and it was taking just a wee bit longer to built pressure. The fuel bowl is further back and I had to crack it loose to the get the IRP out. I drained the HPOP reservoir through the fill plug with a fluid extractor and refilled it before start up. I have a pretty decent IPR video in the archive.
Hell yeah my mann
Can you send me the link to that video?
Thanks
Very nice! Nice to see the senager still has plenty of life in her! With of course a master repairmister in her corner! Thank you for the trip into your world.
👊💯
Thanks for a good lesson. I am at 487,586. I am getting a hard cold start and injectors that might be leaking down. I do change my oil every 50k where it needs it or not. Oil filter gets changed out every 25k. The independent lab report has always been within specifications. I have 100 on replacement injectors. and 220 o n Hpop. The back cover leaked so it got replaced. I am getting ready to upgraďe " D" all of the above. I can take the time off my own company and $20 k and start over. I will not support a manufacturer who puts out a crappy engine and unreliable serviceability. Our Government is to blame as much as We the people have allowed it, When our government can buy the same vehicles without the Bullshxt. Amsoil works. I will be going to a dual oiil filter in the next 500k.
Thanks for the video. I have dropped the tank and replaced the screen, replaced lift pump, replaced CPS, ICP, IPR and HPOP, rebuilt the fuel bowl, new filters and oil, New pigtails on IPR and ICP New seals on the injectors and new glow plugs.. Just picked up and Ford ICP pigtail and hope this works My 2002 has less then 100K miles and is doing exactly what you described. I runs fine down the road but when you let off the gas watch out she will die sometimes. This post give me hope because I have big square holes.
But did u go to IHOP to celebrate afterwards 😁
Did you figure it out?
I have owned 5...just bought my 6th one last week...2000 dually ZF-6
My 2002 is sounding and running just like that one was thanks for the video
Dude... tanks for your memories how to fix em. I run two 7.3s. Both over 300k. Yep ... old school. Old faithful 2000 Leroy crew cab 4by utility gets me to and from and the work done each day. Comfy too. Tru that a day will come when it'll be upgrade when the road gets too steep... until then I still love my ole powerstrokes.
Hell yea brother
it will never happen; my 2v v10 has 520k.
love your videos, hoping this may help with issue I'm having now, plow truck died this morning
For the IPR valve, I found that a shower valve tool works really well. Nice and thin, plus you can use a long punch for gobs of leverage. Nice and cheap, which is always a plus.
I ordered a special socket off of Amazon for the 7.3 IPR.... having to return it because it wasn’t long enough nor was the right size and the aftermarket IPR was junk, ordered a Ford Motor Craft IPR
What’s a shower valve tool Project ? Link please ?
@@dangitgrossman He means a shower valve socket. It's like a thin walled socket designed to slide over shower pipes. It's hexed at both ends, and has a hole on one end designed to accommodate a T-Handle. However, the real magic is that due to it being hexed on both ends, you can easily slide a wrench on the ratchet end and work more comfortably.
They tend to split though with time, so best to have a spare for back up.
I have a 01 7.3 my truck has the same problem it's got almost 400 thousand the po had it bullet proofed then took it to a shop in arazona and had the transmission beefed up I keep up with the maintenance myself the po always took it to Ford the only thing I take it to ford is for oil change every 3000 miles or sooner if I pull the trailer alot I'm just going to replace the valve it looks old thank you for the videos sir
Awesome detail direction. Merci Beacoup
Oh the nostalgia
Good stuff Arod, looks like there is so much room in that engine bay that you could crawl in there and take a nap.
Nappy nap
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod
😂 👊🏻 🤦🏻♂️
we have a million mile 7.3 in at the moment. PCM shat itself. Nice looking school buses you have there too...gravy train!
Brings back memories. I had a 2001 F350 lariat. It was a great truck. That 3/8 Craftsman ratchet had to be one of the 1st tools that you've owned Bro!!. I still use my 1/4" set from when I was 16 years old!!
Hahaha yeppppppp
7.3 with 6-speed, I'm the second owner $287k. Multiple sensor issues some of that has been taken care of I think you nailed it on this IPR valve hard starting then no power for the first minute second minute you can get some RPM. After warm up it's better but I think I'm buying an IPR.. great explanation and detail thank you kindly
Have you checked your engine wiring harness where it goes from the connector on top of the valve cover toward the injectors and sensors? Common wear spot that rubs insulation off of wires, and allows them to short to the valve cover.
Love my 2000 7.3L with 255,000 miles getting 18.5 MPG unloaded and 13.5 MPG with a 12,000 lbs 5th wheel strapped to the rear. Thanks for posting this video! I was surprised when I saw an update for this new video and it was about a 7.3L.
Keep up the good work and that new truck is looking sharp!
Thanks buddy, i appreciate that!!
Have you had any transmission issues? Im looking at buying one with 230k miles on it.
Nope!
@@MarcoRodriguez-lr2xt I replaced the clutch on the ZF6 at ~230,000 miles, but the truck is rock solid other than that. They can and will have issues, but I have $15,000 total including purchase price 7 years ago into my truck that hauls a 12,000 lbs 5th wheel cross country with ease. I installed a Borg Warner T4 turbo on it to bring it up to date regarding the induction system.
I have a couple of videos on/about my truck on our family UA-cam channel (ua-cam.com/play/PL5blclzP3mjORWsk6dLJZEE-Kv1XAzSir.html). None of them are monetized, so I don't make anything off of them, just sharing our experiences.
Also, check out the FTE at www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=31
The 7.3L is not for everyone, but for my family that travels cross country towing the 5th wheel it is a great work horse.
What oil are you guys using? Currently have 218,000 miles and got a little seeping from switching to T5 10w-30, might switch back to 15w conventional
Great 7.3 video! I enjoy all of your 7.3 stuff.
Thanks pal!!!
I am having the same issue. Thanks for your help.
Sounds like the problem I'm having. Thanks
I haven't owned a seven tree; but, did preemptively replace the IPR on my six ooh when in for headgaskets. Need the windowed socket for that one!
Yuppp
Another thing I think people are not diagnosing the right way in the right order I think you should always check the level of the oil first because you can’t get good pressure if the reservoir is not full that is the easiest check to make to make sure you can even get good pressure
That is true, good point. Most people forget about that port. See I know you are cool. If you put key words, YT takes them away b4 I do. 🤷♂️
Thank you ! Great video .
Relic?? Best Dang Power Stroke out there! I've had my 2000 F-250 7.3 4X4 Lariot Relic for 22 years... The Big plus is No EGR, DEF or other crap on newer 6,7s 😎 The solenoid gets heat cracks and goes bad... I've replaced only the solenoid and she came back to life! But seeing the sticky, gooy oil, you need to tell the owner to change his oil at 5K or 6 months if the truck sits alot!
Good video. I use a breaker bar on the big nut, and then turn it the rest of the way with my hand. Seems like the fasted most efficient way. Don't know if anyone ever told you, but there is no such word as orientated. ;-) The word is oriented.
If I remember correctly, I had to buy a special socket to get that thing off. My meaty fingers and knuckles weren’t sized for that cramped space. Nice work bud!
Same, whatever size it was but had to be 3.5" deep to get it off/on
29mm or 1 1/8 inch extended deep well socket. Emphasis on the extended, normal deep sockets wouldnt reach for me
I ordered special socket off of Amazon.... too short and wouldn’t fit, used a standard 3 in deep well socket , but ratchet wouldn’t snap all the way in
I didn’t have good luck with aftermarket IPR
@@dannydenham8141 aftermarket IPR’s are generally trash. I bought 2 off brand IPR’s and both came in and were stuck so pump wouldn’t build pressure. Ended up getting o rings for my Ford one and everything’s been all good since. I spent the same amount of money on two crappy sensors instead of just buying the motorcraft once and calling it a day lol
I knew the noise you were talking about. I Replaced my IPR 3 times. This last time I replaced the pigtail but it turns out the magnet goes bad on these IPRs. I replaced the magnet on mine and while it ran better, the valve itself is worn out and I need to order a new one.
Similar issue based on the sound. My 97 doesn't have nearly the space that you have on this 2000 for that gigantic socket. I ended up removing the IPC sensor, one of the fuel lines and all of the local electrical connectors in the vicinity so that I could get my hand down into the valley without too many injuries. I used a 3/4" (19 MM) combination wrench to remove the stamped nut on the end of the IPR assembly, which dropped into the void and was then retrieved with the 'magnet on a flexible thingy'. I fabricated a 1 1/8" (28.6 mm) custom socket to remove the IPR, but later determined that a 1 1/8" Combination Wrench on the IPR would have worked. In my case I removed the oil from the HPOP to avoid most of the mess (too much time out of the hole) because I disassembled and cleaned the IPR, rather than replacing it (it's a money thing), and replaced the seals. Running well after the surgery. Only 198000 miles on this 1997 F250HD and now again running strong. I apologize for the Imperial metric conversions, but this engine was designed and then built on the cusp of the engineering transition from imperial to Metric in the US. Soft metric was such a pain.
Awesome tnx Sr you the man!!🍻
Beautiful old truck!
Was in pretty good shape
Sounds chuggie.
I've had my 2000 F350 "relic" for 20 yrs and 310K miles...I love that truck. It has been making the same rough running sound and loss of power. Sounds and runs like a cylinder isn't working. After watching this I am going to try it and see if the valve replacement foes the trick. Thanks for the input and I'll let you know if it works.
Wonder if a stiction additive to the oil could have freed the valve?
Probably not
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Turns out it was the injector harness. The valve cover gasket cost about as much as the harness did. Thanks for your input though.
My truck is doing something simillar to yours only im not getting any codes with my small scanner did you have any codes set ? I was also thinking injector or harness
@@juangarza3795 I don't have a scanner. I just walked through the most likely possibilities starting with the least expensive and I got lucky. It was the harness. The valve cover gasket cost more than the harness. :)
I am changing mine out this weekend. Took me awhile to figure out what was actually bad on my 02 7.3
Crank no start or running like shit?
I can’t believe 20 years ago we thought these were fast. Still have a 7 tree out back, but the hopped up six fo is how I get stuff moved quick.
Righhht
what you need is a good brick nose bronco.
@@D4x4Bronc For Broncos, I've hoarded an 84, 88, 92, and 94.
I used a 29mm with ½ to ⅜ adapter. Just long enough. I also filled hpop reservoir before starting. I also ditched the factory lines and went with JiC fittings. Got them from RD2FS PERFORMANCE. The guy needs to change his oil more often. I cannot actually see my hatch marks on my dipstick after 5k. That clean..
Great video.
Good luck 👍
Awesome I got to do mine
My 2002 7.3 with 130000 ipr when bad too. Good job
Thanks
Great video sir
Thanks broski
I wasn't really having any issues with my truck a little missing and sometimes long crank starts so I ran some Hot Shot in both the oil and fuel, the injectors seemed to quiet down and only had 150 miles on the Hot Shot then NO start and a huge mess in the engine, the IPR had a massive blowout, maybe the HOT SHOT did to good of a job??? took me 2 hrs in 20* weather to change it out and a lot of mechanic words.
Where are you located?
Not sure why Ford can't do these diagnostics. They always want to drive it and replicate the issue. This is far quicker, Ford had my truck for 2 weeks and gave it back and told me they couldn't find the issue.
I'm leaning toward this as it has over 300k mi. I have changed, fuel pump, ignition switch, CPS 2x, fuel filter, fuel pressure spring, batteries and oil and filter. Truck runs great other than random stalls as if someone just turns ignition off. Motor is clean, no drips or leaks, I've has it since 209k mi and have taken good care of it. I look at newer trucks, the price and payment and think, yeah mine's good. lol
Just ordered this and hoping that i can do the drop and swap as fast as you did to lose as little oil as possible.
Thanks for the video!
You love those wobbly sockets! 😂
Love em
Wish i would have seen this before replacing my icp, low pressure oil pump, removing the in tank screens, fuel pump, fuel filter...finally giving a fresh oil change on 1000 mile old oil. Still running like poop. Going to change my ipr right now...will get back to you shortly
Awe man, thats a lot of stuff to have replaced
Swapped out ipr with a known good one. Still running like 🐕 💩. My buddy that has a really good scan tool is dusting me. Can't get him to come over and this truck is NOT going down the road like this. Hard start. Smoke on initial start up. After I swapped all sensors and parts earlier...it ran great...until I cleared the stored codes. As soon as I hit the clear codes enter button? Went right back to running like crap. Lopping, misses, low low power, smoking. Buzz tests are good. Contribution tests are good. Im stumped on this. Really am.
Oh. Swapped idms to a known good one too. Forgot about that lol. I've scoured the wiring over and over. Did the 50 cent mod. And like I said...buzz and contribution are perfect.
Did you ever figure it out?
The 7.3 and 6.7. Only Powerstrokes worth a damn.
Ya right 6.0s are the way to go, I dust 7.3s and 6.7s
@@jacobgomez2682 I agree. I love my 6.0
Thanks!
What does IPR stand for? Us upcoming SHE-chanics don't know the proper abbreviations when it comes to the codes especially. It helps with comprehension and innerstanding the functions and flow of the total mechanics of the automobile!
Love-n-light with AutoMight!
Injection Pressure Regulator. Some of the codes may be on google. A lot of diagnostic tools will explain the codes' meanings as well
I have a 2000 and shes runnin sloppy bout to check injector harness plus other wires to make sure there not grounding out anything else to check??
First gen SD is my favorite.
Six foe bruh
Would it matter if you drain oil out before pulling out ipr to not make a mess in valley
This is an extremely hard fix on the 94-97 E-Series vans. Got the tin nut, spacer and solenoid off with relative ease, but I’m having a hard time getting the 29mm socket onto the valve itself. Fuel bowl and lines are in the way. No bueno 😭
Good job as always
🤝🙌
Having a socket like you used really helps. Unfortunately, I couldn't find one. However, I had a water heater "socket" which gave a bit of a sloppy fit, but other YT videos use it too. I have an '03 Excursion which has some sort of PCM thingy with cooling fins and two massive 7-pin plugs going into it right about under where your camera was. It's kind of towards the passenger side from the IPR, aft of the fuel filter, slightly lower. Maybe something with the glow plugs? I needed that space for wrench swing, so it really helped to get that unit out. Only two bolts on that module, but were slightly covered up. To get to those, I loosened the cold air pipe rubber connector coming off of the turbo intake. Nobody seems to do it that way, but having all that room *REALLY* helped. It all went together almost too easily. (Maybe a bit of an exaggeration) Kind of cool to get all the gunk off those parts too. She ran when I went to start up. Let's hope that was my problem. Maybe this will help someone else doing an IPR change.
Mine is sounding the same! I hope that’s all it is
Yeah use a 29 mm socket also except just not snap on because they’re over priced I think Harbor freight actually works pretty good to get a whole set for like $40 so I bought one for the house and bought one for work but the 29mm works perfectly
Before I watch. I’m guessing the lack of power is due to this truck not being a subscriber and not being a 6.7 💪💪💪💪💪🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Lmaoo!!!!
You want us to hear engine then turn off that annoying background music. I rather have an old 7.3 relic then any of the new power strokes out today, how many times has Ford changed that next generation of PS since 2003? Thanks for your content.🛠
INTERNATIONAL GARBAGE DONT COUNT 😉😉😉
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod lol 7.3 isn't international garbage. 6.4 s are junkers though
My truck is showing the same things like my icp at idle is 3000 psi and the ipr is at 4.7%. got the truck from my dad and he said he just replaced the ipr not that long ago but I'm wondering if he got a dud ipr or something because I know that the ipr shouldn't be at 4.7 and that the icp shouldn't be that high while at idle
Do I have to replace the wire to the icp sensor that came with the new icp ? Or will the old one still work
The Harbor Freight Shower Valve Socket Wrench Set has a thin sized socket that fits perfectly.
Yeah I use the 29 also But I don’t by the snap on axle nut socket the harbor freight ones work just fine I think some snap on stuff it’s just not necessary I have a lot of snap on but just not those because I have two sets one I had at work and one I had at home and it just cost too much
Wwwwway over priced
3/4 and 1 1/8 snap on deep socket and 10 min later and shes good to go. seen several the 3/4 nut fell off and upon acceleration the coil would slide off and it would shut off lol.
and a flex head 18in 1/2 or longer ratchet makes the job much easier.
Yepp sure does
I bought one for years ago late 99 at 38900 miles on it today it only has 58000 miles on it was a barn find and other than taking the motor out everything else has been taken out and reseal due to leakage but I love my baby
Put a picture and I've also learned the hard way use FORD ONLY PARTS
Yepppppp
Got that problem today 10/13/21! was running rough then wouldn't start..... service engine soon came on but no check engine lights. i did unplug the oil psi sensor and after several attempts it finally started but ran rough. i did plug it psi sensor back in after starting thinking it would shut off but it stayed running And after a minute or 2 it started running good. im like WTH. Drove down the road and back still running good. so idk if i should change it or not.
Good ol' heuis
Love your videos bud keep them coming... quick question maybe somebody here can help....I have a 2006 6.0 and occasionally my cluster goes out and I lose all controls to radio,windows,etc. The truck runs fine but I notice that its happening more often now... any advice???
Time for a cluster.....HAVE DONE TONZ....accessory delay relay is integral to the cluster...thats why u loose everything...
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod thank you for the response I will look into a new cluster 🤑
Gravy
Agreed on the new cluster needed
Not relic....classic.
Bad choice of a word
How long of a socket do you need? Even my deep one dosnt seem to be long enought
I know this video is kinds old but I am interested in the program you have on the laptop I have 2 7.3 trucks and this would be very handy vs my old snap-on modis. And no I'm not a full time mechanic or anything like that I just do it after work on my stuff
Expensive. It is called Ford IDS
It’s no 6.7! But good video!!
im having the same issue with my 2002 f350 7.3 ran good for a couple days then started to rough idle and die noticed the icp sensor was unplugged and plugged it back in no start replaced icp with one from oriellys to no avail so went and got a icp from ford dealer and installed still same issue i ordered ipr off rock auto hoping that it works but from what i hear these 7.3s only like ford parts
still have the same issue cps sensor will be in today almost like a short some where only thing i havent done is pull off the valve covers
What size socket did you use?
What software were you using to read the % ?? I have a late 99 7.3 that is idling low. It runs fine but idling around 580 rpm 🤔🤔
IDS
what are the 2 relays by the fuel bowl
My truck doesn’t have these codes, but has that same sound at idle. No blow by, no oil consumption, the injectors are new, and pass a buzz test. Cylinder contribution test says number 8 is low, but that doesn’t seem to indicate anything.
After installing IPR what reading did you get on that and ICP thanks
Watch the video
I just bought a manual transmission 02 F250 with 355k, it turns on but after a few mins it begins to miss and die, I reset the key and starts right up. I was wondering what scan tool can I purchase to view what's going on with my sensors/pressures?
Forscan
My son has a 7.3 1999 I changed the I.p.r but the locking clip is missing would it after hot make it run ruff? I changed the sending unit and the fuel pump . And would a bad exhaust back pressure switch have the same effect
No, sounds like u have something else going on
What do you use to read that the on truck?
Could you tell me what would cause a 95 7.3 with over 200,000 cut out for a second while driving and then immediately start driving fine and then do the same thing over and over again it does not do it when it is cold only when the engine is up to operating temperature I'm thinking it's the ICP sensor because I pulled the connector off and it was full of oil I unplugged it started the truck ran it for a little while and it stopped doing that that seems to be my problem but I'm not sure
CMP possibly...
What if your 99 7.3 truck feels like it has a misfire but it’s throwing no codes. Would that possibly be a injector
Most def
Help! Ive been trying to diagnose my 01 7.3 and have thrown a few parts at it already and seem to be getting nowhere. Died suddenly, crank/no start. No wait to start, have already put new fuel pump, and relays. New ignition switch, new cam sensor. Tried hooking a code reader to it but wouldn’t connect to any of my machines. Don’t want to put a PCM on it if it could be something simple I’ve overlooked. The glow plug sensor test I did wasn’t getting power to the connection with the key on what do I do?
If u need diag, you'll have to email me and you will have to compensate for my time. Email is in the about tab
If you have a tuner and turn it on and it doesn’t say wait to start it has a bad connection
Nice video very informative 👍 where is you shop
Detroit...
Just did new icp, new ipr, and new injector wiring harnesses. Still sounds exactly like this motor in the beginning of the video. Any ideas?
Sounds like ur shootin the parts cannon at it
Check for codes and report back. Check the CPS. Common failure.
Gonna make it not start, not run like this 1 did...
My 7.3 will idle down then go up then back down a couple times before it dies then would take couple times to start and now it takes 10 times or so before it starts would that be the ipr or cam shaft sensor
Or something else I haven't brought it to a shop cuz it struggles running for awhile