Thanks for uploading a video for us "Team N54" Addicts. I have to be honest I didn't realize that you owned a 135i. I would love to have one myself in Manual form But the money is all going to the 335XI these days. If you guys didn't have the move hanging over your heads I'd say this is shaping up to be the summer of FUN for you with all these great new builds coming in. No matter it will still be an incredible summer once the big shuffle is completed. Lots to look forward to all around!
About soldering, do you use Flux? If not, try to get a syringe with Flux. Add Flux on the contact-points and then solder. Remember til clean with Isopropyl alcohol after soldering.
Soldering is weird. Make sure the part is clean. Flux the contacts. Make sure you're tip is still good. Tin and clean your tip. Retin and the tip and then tin the pads. It can be really fiddly, especially when you get into super small or weird joints. I'm really enjoying the content. Its holding me over while I search for a 335I E92 of my own. Cant wait to see more of the single turbo car with the equal length manifolds.
Key for good and easy soldering is to use the smallest gauge solder (I personally use 0.5mm diameter that has flux in it) and sharpest soldering iron tip you can find👍🏻 Great video as always. I have to say that you did great job soldering that box considering that I couldn't have soldered a thing using wire that thick
I think you just helped me figure out my problem I’ve been having with my power steering. At first I thought it was bushings when I would taking u turn. I’ll know by tomorrow morning. Thank you playa.
Man this sounded like rod knock at idle and piston slap at 7000rpm. But rotating the pump even by hand I could make it click. New second hand one nice and quiet at idle. Haven’t had a dry to test 7000rpm yet hehe
@@ZeroTo60Tube I haven’t even gunned it passed 4000 rpm but if it works it works. There’s barely any liquid in the power steering resovour, I didn’t see any leaks anywhere and if it’s a noise that’ll let you know then there is a good chance I just need to fill it up. I’ll know by tomorrow. For now thankfully it’s taking me to work lol
Hey long time sub here. I am running the Canformance “CanTcu” in my E90/N54/Hybrids/xDrive 8HP45 swap… first xDrive? I just wanted to give Ken a shout out as he has been amazing working through the various issues that had come up. The wizardry that is going on behind the scenes to make these units talk to each other is impressive. I will be making a post shortly on spoolstreet with more info. I am just trying to do my part now and stop the DME from giving me the old fashioned timing flatline post shift to call it done. I’m curious if you are working through the same issue with the Lamik/Wedge?
So with the lamik the torque reduction is just a setting. Well it’s a setting with a few tables to tune how much torque reduction occurs and for how long. The flow max car is still on default settings which are safe in my opinion lol. Car feels amazing to drive but it’s pulling power for a while. That said it recovers as the lamik stops requesting reduction. I know from working with a lot of 6at cars getting the post shift timing corrections dialed out can cause an issue for a lot of tuners. However wedge will know every way possible to make it work. The bms flashes were the worst I experienced and unfortunately a lot of tuners learnt from those. Who is doing your dme tuning?
@@ZeroTo60Tube I do all my own tuning. Not a pro by any means but have about 6-7 years on this platform circa BBflash and many years on others. But again just a hobbyist for myself and friends. In the CanTcu you run the OEM programming so I have xhp stage 3 installed. However what I did not realize is the 8hp version of xhp does not have any adjustments for torque reduction probably too many maps/drive modes. But would be a nice update to be able to use on maybe “stage 4” flash only. 6HP xhp users are spoiled with this haha. So I may look into making a custom map for the xhp but like you said there are soooo many maps on the 8HP it’s a daunting task. And quite a pain using winols when you do. That will be the last resort so for now just tinkering to see what will making it happy with reported torque and load relationship. Careful what you read online from the early days on flatline a lot has changed since then. I know wedge is well aware of all that and I’m sure he will figure it out and hopefully share some insight. IJE0S/xDrive is notorious for this and post shift corrections. OTS BEF is good for probably 80% of JB4 users and same for ots MHD but at this level a custom tune is the only way as each car has its own little quirks. Either way I’m happy to see the N54 world getting some attention again from these guys… I may be regretting not going with the 8HP70 soon as I am seeing slip even in drag mode going to 6th. It’s still turned down to around 500wtq for this testing as well. But for convenience the 8hp45 was bolt on no adapters even for the transfer case. Only hardware mod was adapting the oil cooler lines. I know Ken@Canformance plans to eventually offer a stand-alone option but I think that may be far off. Again big thanks to him working crazy hours with the time difference from USA to Finland to get me to where I’m at. I am happy just having it in my car and running for now with no errors I will figure out the rest eventually. Though the drives in Mexico are really hurting my fuel economy at the moment lol.
Very interesting insight wancasta. Actually im planming to use canformance cantcu for an e46 330i and hopefully a b3s...actually I think I won't have the problem of to much Power and torque then...maybe more the problem of not enough as both are n/a
@@maxgr7723 It will hold it no problem with torque reduction active. The problem I have is the timing doesn’t start to recover until after the following shift but this is an age old N54 issue you should be fine. My thoughts when going the with the 8hp45 was it is basically still the same hardware as the 8hp50 running in all the b58 cars making similar power with no issues.
You need some FLUX added to your soldering kit. It may splatter or need a final clean up with some IPA after soldering. I have not had to do any soldering work on my n54 car yet. I like Kester Brand solder for working on keyboards, I would go with the Silver 63/ Lead 37 if you can find it, if not a Sn60/Pb40 will do. 63/37 will flash/ solidify almost instantly and help prevent cold solder joints. The Sn60/Pb40 transitions a bit slower to a finished solder joint. Stick to quality brands for solder. Kester, AIM Metals, MG Chemicals, Loctite. As for flux, I use a paste SRA flux #135. Flux is a game changer. Flux removes oxides on the metals and makes the surface "wetter" ... sooo satisfying. GOOD LUCK! And soldering rule #1) If you smell bacon, THAT IS NOT BACON, its your hand! Kester 24-6337-0018 Kester 24-6040-0027 SRA flux #135
Oh Damn!... you better believe this video caught my eye. As a fellow 135i'er I'm Über keen on seeing how this project unfolds! You can bet a good portion of my future spare time, and spare change will be devoted to tracking down a proper E70 8HP now.🤓 By the way Andrew, has the owner of this E82 upgraded to an LSD yet? And, in case I missed it, how about the FLOW MAX car? Thank you for the amazing info and helping make the N54 platform more exciting than ever!
About the epoxy...maybe put some atf and a piece of something with epoxy on it into a can , maybe even heat it to a usual zf8 temp and see if it becomes loose or smth before putting the 8hp together and filling it with atf...
hello Andrew, Lamik kit and E90 harness showed up! thank you! how did you wire in the 6hp connector? not power, wake up and ground but the Canbus wires? what were they hooked to? the DDE? or? need to know so i can test mine too keep up the great work, Cheers
Hi Kevin, on my cars they were plug and play. Shoot 8speed an email and ill look in to it properly. Got heaps on at the moment so i am a bit behind on youtube comments.
I do use flux. I think my issue is the size of the soldering tip. It doesnt transfer the heat in to the pads quickly enough. Based on a few other comments anyway.
Unfortunately everything has gone to crap wth the move, so very behind on that. Im trying to get an exhaust made for it. But its currently just sitting outside the shed.
That shifter is likely from a DCT E82, they didn’t get the glossy trim. Not cross compatible with the 8HP shifters, unfortunately. What errors were the E70 guys getting? I’ve been playing around with one and could probably help.
E70 guys were abs errors. Can you clarify the not compatible with 8hp shifters please. I have it set as a e92 m3 shifter in the lamik. Same as the way I have the e series 8hp shifter set in the flow max car
@@ZeroTo60Tube can’t speak on the Lamik, but I initially had an E82 DCT shifter which threw all sorts of errors when connected to the 8HP; swapped it for an E84 shifter and it was happy. Presumably they have completely different messages. Externally it looks the same as the E84 shifter, but there’s an extra 2 pins for the parking lock, so I don’t know if it’s the same hardware internally. You could try flashing E84 GWS ZB# with WinKFP. As for the ABS errors - if the code is that EGS is complaining that it’s not receiving messages from the DSC - you’ll most likely need to use a different EGS software, as I believe the E90 DSC wasn’t used in the E70. I’ve flashed ZB#7642189 to the EGS, which got rid of the DSC error. There was also an error for driver’s door message; perhaps this has already been figured out, but I just needed to upgrade the JBE to a JBBF3 and that was solved. I suspect that at this point, you could install the transmission in your car, and it would drive. Unfortunately, the E84 (and E89) only ever used the 8HP with the N20 engine, so the included map would be wrong for the N54 and presumably non-N20 torque converter. xHP only supports the E70 8HP, so there is no custom tune support for the E84 or E89 software. I’m currently looking into this.
Hey zero to 60. I have a question about something I bought a 335i e90 about 2 weeks ago and I have noticed under full boost while doing a pull, and during the pull around 6k rev's I hear something go "tap tap tap tap tap" super fast almost like it sounds like a solenoid but then after multiple times of that, it then gets an engine code come up saying "Superknock on cylinder 1,2,3" (Shadow code in MHD) Would you know what that is at all? It's driving me crazy of what it could be... The car is running stage 2+ with intakes, charge pipe, downpipes Cheers man, love your vids
What you are describing sounds like detonation, which is knock. And very very bad. Need to check why that it, if your have a faulty O2 sensor and the DME doesnt realise it may make that entire bank run lean. Also very sorry for the slow reply, youtube put it in the spam folder. Let me know when you work out what it is and avoid driving the car when it does it. If it is detonation, its eating your pistons.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Hey Zero To 60, nah all good brother, yeah my O2's were bad about a month ago and I got them replaced as they were damaged when I got the downpipes fitted by a mob.. I replaced then and the O2's are perfect, getting 11.5-12 AFR's.. Still today, I have no idea why it's doing it, seems the the torque is not there while the "power" is there which is very odd. Starting to wonder if it's my injectors not working properly because I put some injector cleaner in it and after a few minutes of driving, the power is there and everything but after a few days, it's all gone...
But then it doesn't explain the "Superknock" shadow code... Is there any software or test I could run to see what it is exactly, or a place in Brisbane that I could take her to, taking a wild guess that's your home town, as I am on the Gold Coast 👍
@@ZeroTo60Tube Oh man, if you open a shop I'll take it to you at any cost man, I'm only 19 and spent so much on this 335i and now I can't find the problem! Seems very odd as it does keep back firing on it's own, seems like it's dumping so much fuel while there's a misfire... Very strange problem and has no codes.
Thanks will just be interesting to know I'm in the process of doing a 8hp swap and enjoying your videos but would like to see how the 8hp45 will do in the 135 I'm planning on putting a 8hp45 behind a Mazda 4cl engine so planning max torque around 550-600nm peak and. About max 500nm at 7000rpm
I can’t believe you couldn’t pick it from my description in the video. Canformance Cantcu in google should bring it up. Kenneth watches the vids so mention where you heard about. Seems like a good solution if you are not performance orientated. Mainly due to the trans still running a stock tcu. Where the lamik has full control.
Haha. I must have been walking my goldfish and missed it :) wanting to swap the M57 & 5L40 out of my E39 for the M67 and ZF8. If I wanted all out performance I’d get rid of the diesel element haha
Nothing speaks against it! Actually a lot for it! But shouldn't a 2013 already be an 8hp? I once Was curious about the n52 x1s but the 6hp Tore me away
Actually shouldn't this be coming with an 8hp50 and having more the positioning of the dieselstarter and angle of the dieselgearbox like zf8hp70 then the 8hp45 from the n55? Actually one big thing that differs. The n55 8hp45 has the same dimensions as the 6hp...the n20 8hp is shorter
The actual unit is about $1300euro. But then you need the wiring, adapater plate, transmission cooler and so on. In Aussie it cost about $5000aud to setup it up in the other car with the 8hp70, plus the cost of the trans.
Thanks for uploading a video for us "Team N54" Addicts. I have to be honest I didn't realize that you owned a 135i. I would love to have one myself in Manual form But the money is all going to the 335XI these days. If you guys didn't have the move hanging over your heads I'd say this is shaping up to be the summer of FUN for you with all these great new builds coming in. No matter it will still be an incredible summer once the big shuffle is completed. Lots to look forward to all around!
Ohhh no no. This is a zeroto60 g members car.
About soldering, do you use Flux? If not, try to get a syringe with Flux. Add Flux on the contact-points and then solder. Remember til clean with Isopropyl alcohol after soldering.
came here to say the same thing! flux ftw
This is such a pretty car. I have had this exact spec in a 123d version. I loved it, sold it and now again looking for one in 135i or 125i version...
Soldering is weird. Make sure the part is clean. Flux the contacts. Make sure you're tip is still good. Tin and clean your tip. Retin and the tip and then tin the pads. It can be really fiddly, especially when you get into super small or weird joints.
I'm really enjoying the content. Its holding me over while I search for a 335I E92 of my own. Cant wait to see more of the single turbo car with the equal length manifolds.
You have to use flux, otherwise the solder will not flow in place. Very nice stuff going on in the shop guys. Good luck, Dutch regards, Nico.
Key for good and easy soldering is to use the smallest gauge solder (I personally use 0.5mm diameter that has flux in it) and sharpest soldering iron tip you can find👍🏻 Great video as always. I have to say that you did great job soldering that box considering that I couldn't have soldered a thing using wire that thick
Amazing 👍. Will be great to finally see if the 8hp45 box fits n54 and what other hardware is required. Thank you 😊
Actually the n54 isn't much of a problem as it already has so many in common with the n55
I was a bit confused for a minute thinking "have I missed a video where Andrew shows us his 135I"
I think you just helped me figure out my problem I’ve been having with my power steering. At first I thought it was bushings when I would taking u turn. I’ll know by tomorrow morning. Thank you playa.
Man this sounded like rod knock at idle and piston slap at 7000rpm. But rotating the pump even by hand I could make it click. New second hand one nice and quiet at idle. Haven’t had a dry to test 7000rpm yet hehe
@@ZeroTo60Tube I haven’t even gunned it passed 4000 rpm but if it works it works. There’s barely any liquid in the power steering resovour, I didn’t see any leaks anywhere and if it’s a noise that’ll let you know then there is a good chance I just need to fill it up. I’ll know by tomorrow. For now thankfully it’s taking me to work lol
Hey long time sub here. I am running the Canformance “CanTcu” in my E90/N54/Hybrids/xDrive 8HP45 swap… first xDrive? I just wanted to give Ken a shout out as he has been amazing working through the various issues that had come up. The wizardry that is going on behind the scenes to make these units talk to each other is impressive. I will be making a post shortly on spoolstreet with more info. I am just trying to do my part now and stop the DME from giving me the old fashioned timing flatline post shift to call it done. I’m curious if you are working through the same issue with the Lamik/Wedge?
So with the lamik the torque reduction is just a setting. Well it’s a setting with a few tables to tune how much torque reduction occurs and for how long. The flow max car is still on default settings which are safe in my opinion lol. Car feels amazing to drive but it’s pulling power for a while. That said it recovers as the lamik stops requesting reduction.
I know from working with a lot of 6at cars getting the post shift timing corrections dialed out can cause an issue for a lot of tuners. However wedge will know every way possible to make it work. The bms flashes were the worst I experienced and unfortunately a lot of tuners learnt from those. Who is doing your dme tuning?
@@ZeroTo60Tube I do all my own tuning. Not a pro by any means but have about 6-7 years on this platform circa BBflash and many years on others. But again just a hobbyist for myself and friends. In the CanTcu you run the OEM programming so I have xhp stage 3 installed. However what I did not realize is the 8hp version of xhp does not have any adjustments for torque reduction probably too many maps/drive modes. But would be a nice update to be able to use on maybe “stage 4” flash only. 6HP xhp users are spoiled with this haha. So I may look into making a custom map for the xhp but like you said there are soooo many maps on the 8HP it’s a daunting task. And quite a pain using winols when you do. That will be the last resort so for now just tinkering to see what will making it happy with reported torque and load relationship. Careful what you read online from the early days on flatline a lot has changed since then. I know wedge is well aware of all that and I’m sure he will figure it out and hopefully share some insight. IJE0S/xDrive is notorious for this and post shift corrections.
OTS BEF is good for probably 80% of JB4 users and same for ots MHD but at this level a custom tune is the only way as each car has its own little quirks. Either way I’m happy to see the N54 world getting some attention again from these guys…
I may be regretting not going with the 8HP70 soon as I am seeing slip even in drag mode going to 6th. It’s still turned down to around 500wtq for this testing as well. But for convenience the 8hp45 was bolt on no adapters even for the transfer case. Only hardware mod was adapting the oil cooler lines.
I know Ken@Canformance plans to eventually offer a stand-alone option but I think that may be far off. Again big thanks to him working crazy hours with the time difference from USA to Finland to get me to where I’m at. I am happy just having it in my car and running for now with no errors I will figure out the rest eventually. Though the drives in Mexico are really hurting my fuel economy at the moment lol.
Very interesting insight wancasta. Actually im planming to use canformance cantcu for an e46 330i and hopefully a b3s...actually I think I won't have the problem of to much Power and torque then...maybe more the problem of not enough as both are n/a
@@maxgr7723 It will hold it no problem with torque reduction active. The problem I have is the timing doesn’t start to recover until after the following shift but this is an age old N54 issue you should be fine. My thoughts when going the with the 8hp45 was it is basically still the same hardware as the 8hp50 running in all the b58 cars making similar power with no issues.
You need some FLUX added to your soldering kit. It may splatter or need a final clean up with some IPA after soldering. I have not had to do any soldering work on my n54 car yet.
I like Kester Brand solder for working on keyboards, I would go with the Silver 63/ Lead 37 if you can find it, if not a Sn60/Pb40 will do. 63/37 will flash/ solidify almost instantly and help prevent cold solder joints. The Sn60/Pb40 transitions a bit slower to a finished solder joint. Stick to quality brands for solder. Kester, AIM Metals, MG Chemicals, Loctite.
As for flux, I use a paste SRA flux #135. Flux is a game changer. Flux removes oxides on the metals and makes the surface "wetter" ... sooo satisfying. GOOD LUCK!
And soldering rule #1) If you smell bacon, THAT IS NOT BACON, its your hand!
Kester 24-6337-0018
Kester 24-6040-0027
SRA flux #135
Get a larger tip for your soldering iron, it's less about the irons heat and more about the ability of the tip to transfer the heat.
That makes sense! That makes a lot of sense actually.
Oh Damn!... you better believe this video caught my eye. As a fellow 135i'er I'm Über keen on seeing how this project unfolds! You can bet a good portion of my future spare time, and spare change will be devoted to tracking down a proper E70 8HP now.🤓 By the way Andrew, has the owner of this E82 upgraded to an LSD yet? And, in case I missed it, how about the FLOW MAX car? Thank you for the amazing info and helping make the N54 platform more exciting than ever!
This one is a stock diff, i believe. Flow max car does have an LSD.
Getting excited mate..... Love your work Andrew
Just get a Hakko FX888 bro.. you wont regret it!!
Grab some solder flux to help the solder to flow 👍
I did use flux. However there is flux in the solder as well. Maybe it’s too much
How much is the price for the TCU turbo limak can you send it to malta for me
Ahh a Blue 135i, best model haha
About the epoxy...maybe put some atf and a piece of something with epoxy on it into a can , maybe even heat it to a usual zf8 temp and see if it becomes loose or smth before putting the 8hp together and filling it with atf...
Not a bad idea. I had some left over, I’ll put it in something and see if I can hurt it!
Cannot wait for the next video!
hello Andrew, Lamik kit and E90 harness showed up! thank you! how did you wire in the 6hp connector? not power, wake up and ground but the Canbus wires? what were they hooked to? the DDE? or? need to know so i can test mine too keep up the great work, Cheers
Hi Kevin, on my cars they were plug and play. Shoot 8speed an email and ill look in to it properly. Got heaps on at the moment so i am a bit behind on youtube comments.
What’s the part number for the shifter that you are using
Good job on the soldering, definitely an improvement :D
Also that epoxy looks like it works really well.
It definitely is way more runny, not that the other stuff was bad, but this has to have seeped under the board a little better.
Add flux on the pads you'd like to solder to and it should help the solder wet onto them.
Oh she was fluxed!
Waiting for eBay to drop N54 Chinese Transmissions to pair with 17Ts 🤣
*Jack Ma - "hold my beer"
Has anybody got or know where i can get a index 7 injector? Pretty shure my bank 3 is leaking
Great job man, that Epoxy seems nicer to use. /bookmarked
whole different ballgame when you use flux paste for soldering, definitely try it out you’ll thank me later!
I do use flux. I think my issue is the size of the soldering tip. It doesnt transfer the heat in to the pads quickly enough. Based on a few other comments anyway.
Hey did I hear you say better use the diesel converter than the N57 one? For single turbo application?
i cant remember this video. Sorry. However the diesel converter from N57 is tighter than the N55 petrol converter.
@@ZeroTo60Tube ah so the N57 is a diesel? Thought it wasn’t sorry my bad.
Hey mate not sure if you use flux when soldering but will make your life way easier
Yeah, flux the crap out of it…. I’m thinking it needs a thicker tip to actually get heat transferring on to these oads
Louis Rossman turned me on to this amazing flux: AMTECH NC-559-V2-TF no-clean tacky flux
The day I can go ST with a solid trans I'll be in heaven.
Shame about the TCU hopefully it’s not serious, but I think lamik will easily sort it out as he’s a wizard.
Any updates on the JMC tuning kit?
Unfortunately everything has gone to crap wth the move, so very behind on that. Im trying to get an exhaust made for it. But its currently just sitting outside the shed.
Good morning from Boston MA
To make the solder stick, you need to use flux
I do use flux
That shifter is likely from a DCT E82, they didn’t get the glossy trim. Not cross compatible with the 8HP shifters, unfortunately.
What errors were the E70 guys getting? I’ve been playing around with one and could probably help.
E70 guys were abs errors.
Can you clarify the not compatible with 8hp shifters please. I have it set as a e92 m3 shifter in the lamik. Same as the way I have the e series 8hp shifter set in the flow max car
@@ZeroTo60Tube can’t speak on the Lamik, but I initially had an E82 DCT shifter which threw all sorts of errors when connected to the 8HP; swapped it for an E84 shifter and it was happy. Presumably they have completely different messages. Externally it looks the same as the E84 shifter, but there’s an extra 2 pins for the parking lock, so I don’t know if it’s the same hardware internally. You could try flashing E84 GWS ZB# with WinKFP.
As for the ABS errors - if the code is that EGS is complaining that it’s not receiving messages from the DSC - you’ll most likely need to use a different EGS software, as I believe the E90 DSC wasn’t used in the E70.
I’ve flashed ZB#7642189 to the EGS, which got rid of the DSC error. There was also an error for driver’s door message; perhaps this has already been figured out, but I just needed to upgrade the JBE to a JBBF3 and that was solved.
I suspect that at this point, you could install the transmission in your car, and it would drive. Unfortunately, the E84 (and E89) only ever used the 8HP with the N20 engine, so the included map would be wrong for the N54 and presumably non-N20 torque converter. xHP only supports the E70 8HP, so there is no custom tune support for the E84 or E89 software. I’m currently looking into this.
Hey zero to 60. I have a question about something
I bought a 335i e90 about 2 weeks ago and I have noticed under full boost while doing a pull, and during the pull around 6k rev's I hear something go "tap tap tap tap tap" super fast almost like it sounds like a solenoid but then after multiple times of that, it then gets an engine code come up saying "Superknock on cylinder 1,2,3" (Shadow code in MHD)
Would you know what that is at all? It's driving me crazy of what it could be... The car is running stage 2+ with intakes, charge pipe, downpipes
Cheers man, love your vids
What you are describing sounds like detonation, which is knock. And very very bad. Need to check why that it, if your have a faulty O2 sensor and the DME doesnt realise it may make that entire bank run lean. Also very sorry for the slow reply, youtube put it in the spam folder. Let me know when you work out what it is and avoid driving the car when it does it. If it is detonation, its eating your pistons.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Hey Zero To 60, nah all good brother, yeah my O2's were bad about a month ago and I got them replaced as they were damaged when I got the downpipes fitted by a mob.. I replaced then and the O2's are perfect, getting 11.5-12 AFR's..
Still today, I have no idea why it's doing it, seems the the torque is not there while the "power" is there which is very odd.
Starting to wonder if it's my injectors not working properly because I put some injector cleaner in it and after a few minutes of driving, the power is there and everything but after a few days, it's all gone...
But then it doesn't explain the "Superknock" shadow code...
Is there any software or test I could run to see what it is exactly, or a place in Brisbane that I could take her to, taking a wild guess that's your home town, as I am on the Gold Coast 👍
@@rabbitolychee6395 super knock is detonation. well..... if you can just wait abotu 2 months i might have a shop ready to look after customers.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Oh man, if you open a shop I'll take it to you at any cost man, I'm only 19 and spent so much on this 335i and now I can't find the problem! Seems very odd as it does keep back firing on it's own, seems like it's dumping so much fuel while there's a misfire... Very strange problem and has no codes.
Hi any news why the one tcu gave the extra error codes?
Havent worked it out yet. It works fine in the flowmax car.
Thanks will just be interesting to know I'm in the process of doing a 8hp swap and enjoying your videos but would like to see how the 8hp45 will do in the 135 I'm planning on putting a 8hp45 behind a Mazda 4cl engine so planning max torque around 550-600nm peak and. About max 500nm at 7000rpm
Cam performance? Any info on where I can find more details on taking that route?
I can’t believe you couldn’t pick it from my description in the video. Canformance Cantcu in google should bring it up. Kenneth watches the vids so mention where you heard about. Seems like a good solution if you are not performance orientated. Mainly due to the trans still running a stock tcu. Where the lamik has full control.
Haha. I must have been walking my goldfish and missed it :) wanting to swap the M57 & 5L40 out of my E39 for the M67 and ZF8. If I wanted all out performance I’d get rid of the diesel element haha
@@craigpickering5784 happy luck finding a 740d
How much does the turbolamik controller cost?
The controller is $1300euro ish. However the entire kit is a lot more.
Anyone try a 2013 E84 X1 8HP? We are thinking of trying it.
Nothing speaks against it! Actually a lot for it! But shouldn't a 2013 already be an 8hp? I once Was curious about the n52 x1s but the 6hp Tore me away
@@maxgr7723 I meant using a 2013 X1 8HP to put in a 2009 E93 N54
@@igotaction that would mean using an n20 setup?
@@maxgr7723 correct, same 8HP 45, although in USA we had N55 option 2013-15, but I know 2013 has only one PT CAN
Actually shouldn't this be coming with an 8hp50 and having more the positioning of the dieselstarter and angle of the dieselgearbox like zf8hp70 then the 8hp45 from the n55? Actually one big thing that differs. The n55 8hp45 has the same dimensions as the 6hp...the n20 8hp is shorter
Bro how much is the turbo Lamic?
The actual unit is about $1300euro. But then you need the wiring, adapater plate, transmission cooler and so on. In Aussie it cost about $5000aud to setup it up in the other car with the 8hp70, plus the cost of the trans.
I said "DOES IT RAIN IN QLD"? "WHAT"?
When doesn’t it rain. It’s bloody annoying. I actually googled rain fall for here vs where I grew up in the UK to see if I was in the wrong place…..:.