Like Rick mentions near the end of his video, I had similar problems getting all of the readiness monitors to complete after disconnecting the battery on my 2017 Volt. The next day while driving normally, all but 2 of the readiness monitors completed after ~10 minutes of driving at 65 mph and ~3 minutes of stop and go driving in traffic while obeying a 30 mph speed limit. The incomplete monitors were for the: (1) the fuel system and (2) the O2 sensors. The fuel system monitor completed after 2 GM drive cycles, (drive cycles described by Rick near the end of the video) those cycles being separated by at least 8 hours engine off time and the O2 sensors monitor completed after driving ~35 mph for 5 minutes, followed by driving ~55 mph for 15 minutes, as suggested in the UA-cam video: ua-cam.com/video/0hyWGVHYDwI/v-deo.html So if you are living in a state that requires no incomplete readiness monitors to pass an emissions test and your last remaining incomplete monitor is the O2 sensors monitor, try a simple drive cycle that incorporates driving at~ 35 mph for 5 minutes followed by ~55 mph for 15 minutes, it worked for me.
Wish I had seen this post... similar situation. I ended having to pay $250 to the dealer to tell what my problem was - and then, wanted $3500 downpayment to order the part - then informed me that there are no parts available. When I get my car back I will try soaking it for a few days and hope it can operate again. I love my car, but I am totally done with GM. (It seems that many 2016-2019 owners are dealing with this, so I am surprised there isn't a class action lawsuit)
Chevy dealerships are such an absolute scam. $250 just to run the code to see what the problem is. Do you have across the street at the AutoZone and they did it for free…
Great video, worked for me, saved me $$$, Thanks! Some comments for those who want to try this: 1. This was a two-hour job for me. The bolts were difficult to reach; you'll sometimes be going by feel. I needed two lengths of socket extenders. The spacing is tight. I never cut my hands, but I went through several pairs of nitrile gloves. And I went through two handkerchiefs, I was sweating wrestling with this. 2. Like another commenter, I had success just using carburetor cleaner with the straw attached to the nozzle to better direct the spray. I had the Purple Power degreaser on hand but never used it. The force of the cleaning spray really helped. I also used a small wire brush. If you go this way, plan to use a whole can (though you may get away with less). 3. There are two gaskets, one between the flange attaching the metal hose to the front of the EGR valve and the EGR valve and one between the EGR valve and the engine. Keep track of them, they could be easy to lose. The first is clipped to the flange, but the second doesn't have a retention mechanism that I saw, and is just sandwiched in place. 4. In my case, not more than one pint of coolant leaked during the cleaning. 5. All bolts were 10mm. The two on the front flange are shorter than the three on the EGR valve itself. The three on the EGR valve have black plastic(?) bushings on the bolt-head side. These can come out of their seats in the EGR valve, another thing to keep track of. 6. I found removing the black hose secured with the hose clamp to the valve difficult. I removed all the bolts first, then rotated the valve to make getting to the clamp and hose easier. Good luck!
You can CLEAN THE EGR COOLER without removing it (you will need to remove the manifold cover to gain access to the EGR cooler, shown in video). I tried cleaning this valve several times, convinced I wasn't doing it right. I decided to try cleaning the cooler instead. AT 4:48 Dr. Rick points out the EGR cooler, specifically a pipe that comes out and above the cooler. If you look to the right of this and just below this pipe (can't see it in his video) there is another pipe entering the EGR cooler with a sensor (It's the lowest point you can access the EGR cooler without removing it). I unscrewed this sensor, attached a 1"(I think) clear hose to a small shop vac (with make shift reducers to get it all to connect without losing much suction). Then I sprayed carb cleaner down the pipe (@2:21 where he says "here" in the video) that attaches to the EGR valve. I used almost the whole can. I noticed a big difference in the shop vac as the carbon buildup inside the EGR cooler was cleared. THIS WORKED! I finally passed emissions test. NO ISSUES yet and its been a year since I did this.
Wow, It WORKED!!! You saved me a ton of cash Dr. Curry! I can't thank you enough for this video. I had the same error code message and check engine light. Also, when I accelerated in Hold mode (gas engine would turn on), I would hear a LOUD Pop sound (the EGR was sticking). My local Chevy dealership quoted me $700 part and $1,100 for Labor! I did what you said to do and its fixed. I didn't even use the Purple cleaner. Just a can of Carb cleaner and a metal brush. Only took me 1 hour to fix. Someone PLEASE tell me why the CHEVROLET Dealership wanted to charge me $1,100 for one hour of labor!!! Jerks! NEVER taking my car to a Chevy dealership again.
How has it been going? My car just lit up the check engine light with this error code but previously when in gas mode I also have heard a loud pop when accelerating
They would not do what you did. They would replace a part because it is dirty. Note that replacing it does not fix anything. The new one will be in exactly the same system that made it dirty. Dealerships have a license to steal and the political environment today is against consumer protection.
Thanks Rick! Great video. I have a 2017 Volt and I got the Reduced Propulsion warning, and the CEL came on. Took it to the dealer and they sat on it for a week and then said they didn't have the part. They did say it was the EGR valve. The dealer didn't want me to drive it, but the car seems to run fine.Took it home and followed your advice; removed and cleaned the EGR valve. I tried to do the drive cycle, but the traffic was ridiculously slow today and couldn't effectively complete it. I guess I'll just have to wait it out with the regular driving (no emission test constraints where I live). Your video really helped out; it was the best source of information on the internet!
Just some input here. I have been getting intermittent propulsion power limited messages and then noticed a pop or knock intermittently. Tracked it down to when the engine would start. Thought it was the exhaust hitting a bolt under the car. Today I got a cel for p0401 and f3 fuse is not blown. We’ll after reading this comment and watching this video I believe it just needs a good cleaning. I will update after cleaning it.
@@68elsancho for about 8k miles, now it’s back on. I plan on cleaning it again here for SmoG reasons. It did not cure the popping sound. That is a service bulletin that requires a ecu update to cure. It does not harm.
@@ScootinNTunin mined started having propulsion power message when engine is cold but onces is operating temp runs amazing only cell I'm getting are the normal no engine start. My plan is to unplug the EGR and drive it to see if issue still there. I'm still cleaning the EGR see what it does
I just want to point out that this video has 27,000 views which is more Chevy volts that were sold in any single year of production, and roughly a third of all chevy volts ever sold. This is a serious problem with the car.
@@FestiveScholar , With the Gen2 Volt it has 3 things that crop up. Along with this EGR problem the BECM and the "Shift to park" problems. I have taken care of the last 2 but am awaiting the EGR problem. Thanks for your video!
@@TRyanMooney- I bought the correct microswitch and wire harness attachment. Replace the microswitch and add the harness. The harness reduces the electric so the new switch doesn't arc over again. If you're handy it's not that hard.
TL;DR: I can confirm this fix worked for me too! Thanks a lot Rick for discovering the fix and then taking the time to make this video. Some more details: I followed what Rick said exactly. On my car, even after removing the 5 screws (10mm in case you were wondering), the EGR valve kinda stayed put strong enough that shaking it shook the whole car. I tried a few days later again, and this time gently hitting the EGR valve with a rubber mallet pried it loose. The engine coolant hole is on the engine block (not on the EGR valve itself), so be ready with something to plug it. I used chewing gum, but I don't think it worked well, so I had to buy and refill the coolant. Dunking the EGR valve's metal portion in the purple power for a few hours left behind a residue which I then cleaned of with water and a brush. After a few days of driving, I cleared the fault code and it hasn't come back! I do want the next person who faces this to experiment something. instead of opening up the whole EGR valve (I can't try it anymore since it's already fixed). With an adjustable wrench, unscrew the nut on the thing Rick points to at 1:55 in the video. That allows you to take out the sensor without opening *any* of the 5 screws. Clean just this probe with some degreaser, put it back together and see if it also clears the code? Please let us know if anybody tries this. It is *MUCH* easier.
I believe that probe in the corrugated pipe is EGR temperature sensor 1. I think the 2nd one is on the far end of the egr cooler. I don't have the code yet, but I'm chasing a rough idle, and my valve does appear to be sticking a fair bit. I've been watching the "commanded EGR" and "EGR error" readings on my OBD2 scanner. I don't think it's the cause of my rough idle, but I may clean the valve anyway before it gets worse.
Since I couldn’t get to the bottom two bolts due to such a tight space, I cleaned the EGR valve without taking the whole thing off as you mentioned in the second part of your comment. It’s been about 24 hrs since and I am waiting to see if the check engine light disappears. I’ll be back to post an update. It’d be great if it could be cleaned without taking the whole thing off. I can hardly get to the bolts even with my tiny hands. 😩
@@kimberlynguyen927 Reporting back after cleaning the EGR valve. My check engine light never went away after a couple months of driving. I went to an auto repair shop and they concluded that I had to get a whole new EGR valve which is on national back-order. Now deciding if I should get one from eBay with the risk of no warranty or get one through O'Reilly's/dealership with a warranty. Who knows when the ones with warranty will be available though.
Rick, Thank you so much for this video. It allowed me to drive 250 miles home from NJ to Rhode Island. You saved me a bunch of time, money, and aggravation. Just unplugging the EGR (the lock on the connecter took a bit of figuring out) and replacing the 15 amp #3 fuse (Non Walk Home" fuse) did the trick. Since it is covered I am taking it in to a dealer.
Thanks for posting this. I had the exact same issue. Back in 2021, I waited 6 months for a back ordered part. BTW, at the time GM informed me that the repair was specifically excluded by the drivetrain warranty. Fortunately, I had a supplemental warranty that covered the cost.
Worked for my brothers Volt. You are the man. Thank you so much. Check engine light went away within 24 hours. We used Ace Hardware's purple degreaser instead of purple power and their version of carb/choke cleaner.
Out of a sense of worry, I checked the warranty booklet for the Volt..... It seems here in CA, most all smog components are covered under a 15 year/150,000 mile warranty for TZEV vehicles. EGR valve and cooler are specifically named as covered. So good news ! whoot.
I just did this job. It is not for the faint of heart. I have worked on cars for over 50 years. Modern cars are very challenging especially electric cars. Things are so tightly packed under the hood. One item I think was not discussed was the small coolant hose attached to the EGR valve. Now that I've done the job, I would probably advise others to remove the end of the hose NOT at the EGR valve. The clamp can be quite difficult to release on the EGR end, but the other end looks more accessible. Now that the job is done, I am not as pleased as I thought I'd be having save myself from paying the dealer. I reused the existing gaskets and I only hope that the EGR to engine block gasket re-seals and doesn't leak coolant. You will need GM coolant to top off because you will lose some during this job. My EGR wasn't all that bad. The temperature probe in the outlet of the EGR might just be where the CPU senses temperature. Perhaps just cleaning that probe (easily removed with one open end wrench) would be sufficient. I'm not sure. I cleaned mine anyhow. Good luck if you attempt this job. You need to be rather good with wrenches, sockets, extensions, magnets etc. Just don't overtighten the bolts into the ALUMINUM block. I did not have any codes, I did this as a preventive measure.
Just finished this job, I attempted to remove the clamp based on your comment, however the small hose impedes use of pliers for removing it from the non-EGR side. Maybe if i were left-handed it would've been easier. Personally, it was easier to remove the hose on the EGR side.YMMV
Oh. Forgot to mention! If you remove the hose on the non-egr side, it vomits a ton of extra coolant. Must be below the coolant in the system, so it will vomit until it's at the same level.
Tip for others attempting this: Don't use a degreaser (PurplePower, Simple Green, etc) as they corrode aluminum and must be thoroughly rinsed and removed with a solvent. Preferably don't use carb cleaner or brake cleaner either, as there are rubbers and plastics they can damage. Certain carb cleaners are safe-ish (no acetone, etc) and certain fuel system cleaners should be safe (SeaFoam, Gumout Regane, Techron) but need to be rinsed with a solvent. Any fuel system cleaner with PEA will likely work best on the carbon deposits, especially if kept warm during soaking. Anything remaining should be cleaned and rinsed with high concentration isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol, and allowed to dry fully. Denatured alcohol, or just methanol (Everclear) technically leaves residue but only a very small amount and should be aggressive enough to clean and rinse everything start to finish without damage.
I have a 2016 Volt exactly like Rick's (same color and state). I blew the 15 amp ( No wak Home Fuse) fuse on a trip from Houston to Austin. The car started running poorly so i turned on the heater and popped the hood band kept the car around 220° (thank God it was cool outsi 10:00 de). The CEL came on too. On the way home i disconnected the EGR Valve wiring harness and replaced the fuse and had no problems with overheating. I had heard that GM was starting to produce (or rebuild) EGR Valves so i took a chanceand order one from GM Parts Center online. The price was $175 plus a $125 core charge and wouldn't you know it they shipped it out three days later. I'm getting it later this week and will clean the cooler and install the new EGR. My fingers are crossed as i need to get the car inspected this month 1/25. The moral of this is that there seem to be EGR Valves available now.
I just did the decarboning and all I can say is that you are a far, far, FAR more capable wrench turner than I am because getting the inner three bolts off and then back on were as hard as any complete engine change I have ever done....Plus I lost my small 10mm wrench and socket somewhere in the bowels of the Volt...Aarch.
Thanks man. This worked! I used b12 Chemtool spray and a power washing degreaser/hot water. Worked good. My cat would get red hot while idling the engine. After cleaning it stays nice and cool. So far so good. 2017 volt.
I can help to wonder that the Volt EGR issues are related to the functional design of the car itself. The ICE augments the battery pack. The engine starts / stops for short periods particularly in the winter. I suspect most EGR failures are related to the crankcase not often enough being allowed to get sufficiently hot enough and long enough to burn off harmful carbon and moisture within which leads to eventual EGR failure. I could be wrong. But, I run my ICE hard and often. I’ve also deselected the cold assist mode.
Thanks for the helpful info and the location of the part...because you can clean all this carbon by spraying some kerosene or if if you jet fuel you can spray and this will clean like magic...also the purple cleaner or simple green will help too
You are the man, got this code in my gen 2. Did the soak with the purple power and cleaned it good. Installed and no egr code. Did however throw a o2 sensor code the carbon might have went downstream and clogged the o2 sensor. That's replaced and no codes for about a week. Thanks
Dr. Rick - Glad I found your video and thanks for taking the time to put this together. Few questions: 1) Someone mentioned we'd need to top off the cooler fluid. You didn't mention that, so please confirm, and if so, where do we top it off? 2) It wasn't clear about the drive cycle. What I understood is that after doing the cleaning, then clear the code with the scanner, and then we have to do that drive cycle to permanently clear it? Or do we do the drive cycle to clear it without the scanner? 3) For the drive cycle, when you say a speed like up to 55 MPH, does that mean above 55? And when you say 3 minutes, you mean exact, or at least 3 minutes? 4) And when you say down to 25 MPH, you mean just below that and then immediately punch it back to above 55MPH...that right? 5) And is there any way for me to know if I did it right or not? Thanks in advance for your help.
Hi Musud. It's always a good idea to check the fluid levels. My coolant levels were fine after my repair, so I didn't need to add any, but if you do, it's easy, and the coolant can be purchased at any auto store. Just make sure it's for GM vehicles. The drive cycle will complete itself and clear the codes without you having to do all the crazy steps. It will just take a week or so of regular driving. I only needed to do the immediate reset because my inspection was expired and I didn't want to get a ticket. If you need the immediate reset, yes, go up to the speeds mentioned and then go to the next step. Good luck!
All of my DTC readiness checks except for one (O2 sensor I believe) cleared on my drive into work the morning after cleaning my EGR valve. My state allows one to be uncleared, so I got it inspected later in the day and it passed without issue. No CEL yet. Fingers crossed again, but at least now I don't have the pressure of my inspection expiring in a few weeks. So thanks again. Maybe I'll start saving for the repair. Or a fully electric car lol.
So glad it was helpful! The state inspection being expired was the biggest issue I had, but it ran issue free for another 15 months before popping back up again. I reset it again and traded it on something new.
Unfortunately, I don't. Try searching for the service manual online. I think when I used it (it's been a few years ago) I had to pay a few bucks for access. Good luck with your repair.
Tried this and did not work. CEL came on right away. I did have a clogged EGR cooler which i was able to free up. A can of 16oz TBC was used. I had to take that flex tube off egr actuator off then the tube post egr cooler which is on the side of engine. Its tight and lots of shap hose clamps cutting you up. I put air in one side and barely got air out the other. Sprayed TBC waited 5min and blew air through. Got some gunk out. Did 3 times and got good airflow. Put back together and no CEL. The cooler is like $180 but you have to remove the converter to get to it. Which is a big job. Rusted exhaust bolts suck to deal with. I can help anyone walk through the process if interested.
I am currently in the same boat you were after cleaning the EGR valve. I have already bought the egr cooler replacement but if I can avoid replacing it I am all ears. Is the CEL still off currently?
Did you do this from above or below? It seems like there is not enough room to operate from above. So basically you removed the intake flex pipe and the outflowing pipe. Then you sprayed cleaner and blasted with air. Am I missing anything?
Update: i used carbon cleaner with this method. Cleaned the egr valve with spray nine and some carbon engine cleaner. I then sprayed a bunch of carbon cleaner into the cooler and let it sit for about 10 min. Cooler was plugged up but the carbon cleaner worked well. Permanent fault code cleared now.
@@shannonsmith148it’s been a while hello, just wanted to know if you can update us on how’s it’s been now? Have you had the code come up again? I might take mine to a shop they will charge me about. $280~300 to clean both the egr valve and cooler so wanted to make sure this does indeed work Thank you I’m advance
I have the same problem and have been quoted $1500 to fix it also with the Chevy Dealer here in Houston, Texas. Did you also clean the cooler? You don't mention that in the closing comments. Thanks for the video!
Sorry for the late response - but replying now in the event others have the same question in the future - I didn't do anything to the EGR cooler and my issue was resolved for over a year. The light eventually came back on and I cleaned it again. It went off again and I ended up trading the car in with around 117k miles.
Does it help to use additives like Seafoam occasionally to prevent this problem or even after the code goes off? Maybe laquer thinner would work too. I've cleaned dirty catalytic converters enough to clear the code and get it to run better by adding that to the gas tank and driving for an hour or so.
As long as the EGR valve doesn't blow the non-walk-home fuse, it just needs a cleaning. problem with these, is that the engine sometimes doesn't reach operating temperature, mine has come online a mile or 2 from home.
200k miles on my 2017. My CEL is on and it is throwing the code. I recently had the EGR cooler replaced, so im almost positive that it is the valve failing - right? Because if the cooler was replaced recently... It has to be the valve. Cleaning it, im hoping will work - thoughts? Im basically ready to do it - but im also looking to get an EGR valve.
Since you replaced the cooler, the odds are it's the valve. The positive note is that the valve is much simpler and cheaper than the cooler! It's worth the shot to try cleaning it before replacement and seeing if that solves your problem. You can take the sensor off the front and tell by looking in the valve what condition it's in before you even take it off. Let us know how it goes and good luck!
Awesome man, glad you were able to get it fixed without dropping $1500. Considering picking up a 2017 Volt with 35k on it today, been looking around at different issues and what all is needed to fix them. Luckily I live in San Antonio where we don't have to worry about that emissions crap, but I still don't like having a check engine light on.
Dr. Rick Curry so I did this method and cleared the code. It’s been 2 weeks and the CEL hasn’t come back on. However, my Volt now seems to run pretty rough on ICE. It jolts, hesitates, and runs hard. Suggestions? Is it possible that air got in the coolant when I took the EGR off?
Alexander Vousden haven’t personally run into this issue. For the last year, my volt has run a little rough on ICE, especially on idle. It could be a result of the EGR issues- but I’m honestly not sure. I don’t think Air in the fluid would effect how it runs on ICE- it would effect the heater, etc. There’s some UA-cam videos where A few people had Heat issues and it was due to low coolant levels and/or air in the system. If this is the case, you’d hear a “gurgling” noise from the dash. Check your coolant levels and with your car parked on an incline, run the heat on high for a few minutes and it will purge the line. There’s also the chance the issues are unrelated. Any other codes thrown or shown as pending ?
Sorry! I guess I had taken it on and off so many times it was just second nature to me. Look for the tabs and work with it. It usually comes out pretty easily.
Search for the service manual online and you can find the location and procedure for repair of the thermostat: www.gm-volt.com/threads/ Reddit is also a good place to find the service manual.
Unsure of the torque specs. I just hand tightened until moderate resistance. If you run across that info feel free to drop it in the comments and I’ll add it into the description. Thanks!
So, what is that confusing "drive cycle" you did? Why does it need to be done in the very specific way? Is it to make that part start working completely again? Does it have to be done if I don't need to pass an inspection?
Hi there. No, the drive cycle doesn't need to be done if you don't need to pass an inspection. The car will automatically clear the codes over a week via everyday driving. My car was past inspection, and I didn't want to get ticketed or pay the fees, so I was under a time crunch and needed to clear them quickly.
Not much at all. Fluid levels were still good and didn’t need any additional coolant. That of course may differ for others, so just check it after you finish to make sure.
Same code cleaned EGR did not work then removed cooler mount exhaust house sensor then 2 bolts sprayed sea foam carb cleaner had to get creative to feed the red draw all the way into the EGR cooler. Connected idled engine for five mins cooled and put more in on warmed engine. Code did not trip have run 100 miles no code
I just got mine replaced by the dealership you have to tell them that it is covered under the PZEV LIMITED WARRANTY as long as it’s under 150k miles they won’t charge mine was at 84k when the egr valve and egr cooler had issues.
Nice! Here in Texas, they wouldn't touch it under warranty work, but hopefully, they've changed their tune now that they've had a lot of them with issues! Thanks for the suggestion.
@@FestiveScholar I’m in Arlington Tx but got the service done in Fort Worth with no charge maybe it depends on your dealer but they didn’t give me any problems
EGR valves are a required emissions component so it’s going to have one, unfortunately I don’t have any experience with the model year. There are sites where you can access the service manuals and can find the location there. Try: www.gm-volt.com/threads/2012-chevy-volt-service-manual.19294/
I have cleaned it twice clear the fault code but came backdo you think its better just to replace the valve and not the cooler. and if i keep driving it with the fault will it do harm to the engine by not replacing it. Thanks.
It won't hurt the car to drive with it on. I only needed to clear mine for state emissions testing. Many folks are having issues with the coolers now, and depending on where you're located, it's possible it's covered up to 150,000 miles. I'd check with a few local dealerships and see if it's still warrantied. Worth a shot!
Glad you found it useful! To answer your question, I have a PhD. and am a college professor. 99% of my videos are course related learning videos so I keep it in my name header for those purposes.
Hey I wish I had your same reaction and outcome you did after I did this. But no luck for me :-( and my inspection is due this month. I soaked mine overnight. I also sprayed carb cleaner down the cooler while engine is running, read that somewhere. P0401 came back after reset. With scan tool egr error remained at negative 70% to mostly 96-100%. Fuse has never went out and coolant has never gone over 217. Any other thoughts?
Thanks for the video! About how much coolant fluid came out of the engine? I see the coolant flow is via one hose and presumably a duct into the engine block.
Hi Dave. I let the coolant hose attached so my fluid levels were basically unchanged from before. Always a good idea to check levels after and make sure, if you do no need to add, that you use the GM specific coolant.
@@DaveLaneNS Im sure there was some. It’s been a few years since I did this so the specific amount isn’t something I recall. My fluid levels were the same before and after so any loss was minimal.
I just took my Chevy 2017 volt to the dealership with the same problem: clogged egr/cooler due to using regular gas instead of premium. They replaced the system for free under GM extended warranty of 15 years/ 150k miles. The same applies to the BECM problem. From now on, I will only use premium fuel plus ocasional fuel system cleaner. Also, driving on gas could contribute to cleaning the system.
Yeah I don't think too that using premium will solve this situation. Your engine may run even more sluggish until the computer relearn. Running the engine on hold mode, highway speed once a week will do a better cleaning that EGR valve. Also, cleaning the EGR valve once a year, like explained in this video will probably save you some troubles.
Hi 4N. I don't own a Volt anymore or I'd go outside and take a look at the clip! To the best of my memory I squeezed both sides with my thumb and pointer finger while rock it back and forth and it slid out. Maybe someone who has done this more recently and comment with some suggestions.
I'm having a lot of trouble with this connector as well. Definitely can't just pinch from the sides. There appears to be a tab on the underside (great placement GM) but I can't figure out how it releases.
also, my volt is currently in the shop for the egr cooler and valve replacements. the valve is backordered til the end of Feb. I was able to clean it..., it worked perfectly for like a month, then back to failure. cost = $2500 (cooler, valve, and the 100,000 mi battery trans flush)
@@4n6dave that sucks. Sorry to hear it. I eventually got the wiring harness disconnected after breaking off that piece of the clip/tab. A little mirror helped me see what I was doing. I think the tab was supposed to slide back allowing you to push up on the middle. After teasing out the remains of the tab/clip I was able to push on the correct spot (with the help of the mirror). I can't imagine the design engineer looking at that connection with the release facing down thinking "Yeah, that looks good!" After removing and cleaning the valve as best I could, I reinstalled and will see what happens. I cleared the code and drove around a little (in Hold drive mode) but didn't have it in me to look up and jump through the DTC readiness check hoops. I just need it to pass inspection next month and then I'll revaluate.
Shouldn’t this repair have been covered under the 8 year/ 100,000 warranty on the hybrid drive system? My light turned on yesterday and the dealer appointment is later this week.
Here in Texas, they told me no, it wasn't covered, although posters in other areas of the country seem to have had better luck with Chevy. Unfortunately, it seems to be a hit or miss - but definitely worth trying to get Chevy to fix it before you try a self-fix.
@@SnakeDoctor303 how did you get it off??? I see there's a Grey tab on the underside...just squeeze it? Or Is the Grey tab a lock that has to be pulled out??? Thanks
So, one thing I’ve heard that comes along with that fault, is a blown fuse that you can’t cure with a new fuse until you remedy the EGR issue. You might want to show your viewers where that fuse is.
I got that code on my 16.. it didn't seem to blow my NWH F3 fuse.. I heard you can uplug the EGR valve and keep driving. I did blow that fuse once before without that code.
@@ilovemyevo556 What you do, is un-plug the EGR, and THEN replace the fuse. Otherwise, it’ll often blow the fuse repeatedly. If it’s blowing the fuse, you probably need to replace the EGR valve itself.
How common would you say this issue is? I was about to close the deal on a used 2018 Volt, but found this in a search for problems as I'm concerned about reliability.
The Volt was one of the most popular PHEV's sold - so I wouldn't take the comments on this video as representative of the larger sample of folk who have bought one. It is problematic to see the same issue popping up with folks - but i know many other volt owners who have had no issues. Given what i know now, I would still purchase my Volt again. It's been a great car (we actually own 2)!
@@BoopSnoot I’ve actually owned both. I loved my I3 but it was in the shop 5 times in one year for battery charging issues. The last time the kept it 1 month before they were going to buy it back via lemon law. Again ( just like with the Volt- that’s just my experience). The Volt feels and drives like a regular car. I’ve taken it on 2,000 mile road trips. The i3 was a great around the city car. Zippy, more fun to drive than the Volt, and I loved the futuristic interior. I had the range extender version but the car wasn’t really drivable on long trips. Anything further than an hour and half and you find yourself stopping for gas every 30 mins. Having owned both- pick the one you feel most drawn to. You can’t really go wrong with either. Good luck in your purchase !
I personally didn't have the propulsion power reduced message, and for me, yes the car ran fine in EV mode even when it was throwing the codes and had the issues.
I'm hoping to try this but I can't reach the bottom two bolts on the valve with the limited tools that I have. What can I get to get in those tight spaces?
You can try a small 5 inch ratchet extension that will extend it out far enough for you turn it. If you don’t have one, most auto part places have them for free rental. Try autozone or o’rileys if they’re in your area.
Resetting the drive cycle doesn’t mean resetting the check engine light. All vehicles have something called readiness monitors. The computer tests onboard systems and some of those tests take a while to complete. This is true for any vehicle post 1995.
Thank you for this. Did you have a reduced propulsion message as well, or any other codes thrown? My 2017 broke down months ago (its a CPO with warranty) - Chevy has had it for 2+months telling me it needs a new EGR. The part is on national backorder with no ship date in sight... cant source it from any sellers in US, and no aftermarket will work per Chevy. Debating pulling it from Chevy and trying this, but I had a myriad of other codes that were thrown when the EGR failed. Chevy has given me the worst customer experience I've ever had. Making it sound like its my fault that they are an American company (that was bailed out with tax dollars) who chose to have their parts manufactured overseas. They refuse to give a loaner, or provide proof of reimbursement for a rental. Nobody is lifting a finger.
Sorry to hear about your experience, Alec. The EGR will often throw other codes (like the propulsion one). The EGR also won’t hurt the car if driven while you wait for the part. It’s emissions related only. Mine eventually threw the code again a year and half later and I had to clean it again. Last year you could get the EGRs on eBay for a few hundred. Hope your issue gets resolved soon.
@@FestiveScholar Thanks for the reply. I managed to find one at an out of state Chevy dealer for about %200 normal price. Seemed worth it considering everything. A bit disheartening that it seems this will be a repeat occurrence with the car. Debating trading it in for a 22 WRX.. Those gas prices though.. Hoping the EGR is the only issue as some of the other codes seemed to indicate a misfire in a cylinder. We will see next week... Ill be sure they give me the old EGR back so I can clean it and rotate it in when this other one starts throwing codes lol
Sorry to hear of the issue getting to the bolts. I remember getting a few knuckles scuffed up trying to access it, but really it's the only way to get it off. Maybe get some beer and pizza and bring some friends over with some smaller hands.. lol. Unfortunately, it's not a part that can be cleaned in place. It will need to be removed. I think the parts and prices have come down significantly in the last year, in the event you have to have it worked on. Also, it's not going to damage or hurt the car. It's purely emissions based. I drove mine daily for 10 months with the light on, and finally cleaned it/ cleared the codes once my yearly inspection was due.
@@FestiveScholar yea I can tell it just needs cleaned. 2017 with 68k on it. Kinda shocked that this part needs cleaned. My jeep is a 2014 and never had this issue and she has 106k miles on it. I got 4 bolts off. I'll get the 5th. What fluid comes out from the back? Coolant?
@@SnakeDoctor303 i just did this and think its my EGR cooler but yes youll loose about 1L of coolant so put a tray down. as for fully removing. you can just take off the outward facing side...but youll only be able to clean that side. if it doesnt fix your problem youll end up taking off the whole thing anyway. (watch out for the bushings on the 3 bolts holding the EGR to the block, they get lost quick
The first gen required premium fuel, they changed the engine around but maybe this would run cleaner on premium fuel too who knows. Glad you fixed yours for cheap!
It will clear itself over a period of a few hundred miles and then the light will also go off. You can also have a local advance auto parts, o’Reilly’s, or autozone clear it for free if you’re impatient.
Cleaned the valve a week ago and had the code cleared by dealer it has not come back on since. Normally after the code is cleared 3 days before it would come back on.
The clip has a lock underneath that slides towards the front . Then it slides off easily. I used the can opener tool on my swiss army knife to hook pull the locking tab. It was too hard for my finger alone.
Copied from another reply I made above... I eventually got the wiring harness disconnected after breaking off that piece of the clip/tab. A little mirror helped me see what I was doing. I think the tab was supposed to slide back allowing you to push up on the middle. After teasing out the remains of the tab/clip I was able to push on the correct spot (with the help of the mirror). I can't imagine the design engineer looking at that connection with the release facing down thinking "Yeah, that looks good!"
Just in case this helps anyone else who comes across these comments while looking into this... There is a coolant hose that runs from a rigid metal connector on the left side of the EGR valve to the right and down to the engine. I was able to remove the hose where it connects to the EGR valve (with some difficulty) and lost maybe a few ounces of coolant only. It ran out from the connector on the EGR valve, and I could see the hose was filled up to the open end that I had just removed. I just made sure not to bend it down to avoid spilling any more. After cleaning and reinstalling the EGR valve, I didn't feel the need to replace any coolant. A note on removing the coolant hose where it connects to the EGR valve...I ended up using a pair of needle nosed pliers (a bent or curved pair would've made it much easier) to loosen to hose clamp and used the open end of a box wrench that was the same diameter of the hose to ease the clamp down. I did the reverse when reinstalling.
@@getfilipino123 Dealers lie. It may be covered but slimy dealers will say it's not covered when it is. Do research online and bring it in to plead your case. Just because dealers don't get adequately covered for warranty work shouldn't be the customers problem.
@@FestiveScholar that's for the video it helped alot..did mine Saturday I seen on one of the comments that you did reuse original so said screw it I'm doing lol now i just got to clear the check engine light
Not sure if you ever ended up trying this @Gunner but access is definitely an issue. It helped me to disconnect the wiring that is in the way and beyond that it's all about small enough hands, long enough fingers, ratchet extensions, and dexterity. I found the bolt on the bottom left of the EGR valve as well as the coolant hose (disconnecting/reconnecting it from/to the EGR valve) to be the most challenging in terms of access. The wiring harness connected to the top of the EGR valve (which has its release on the bottom side) was a real pain in the ass too.
@@FestiveScholar I ended up picking a 2017 off lease with only 22kmi, fully loaded with ACC managed to talk them down to 19000. It required me flying out from houston to LAX over two weekends (one to view/test drive, the next to finalize paperwork and drive it back) Fantastic vehicle, love it.
@@FestiveScholar People waste a lot of fuel there, & elsewhere, trying to make their cars pass smog inspection. Sounds like they make more emissions just to get tested!
@@FestiveScholar My dealership basically fixed it for free after letting it sit in their lot for months. GM kept ping ponging me back and forth. I did get the government involved and that’s when they got it resolved. The dealerships and GM know it’s a defect - they just don’t care.
This isn't a GM problem, it's EPA INSANITY. Nothing in nature is designed to swallow its own waste. Plants, animals, ANYTHING produces a form of waste and it's called waste for a reason. Those things shouldn't exist. But, thank God I have the Gen1 VOLT. NO EGR SYSTEM !!!!😊
Seems like more and more people are having an issue with this now. I have heard the price has come down significantly - so that's a positive (if they're ever readily available again).
Spent 1/2 my day removing, cleaning and reinstalling the EGR, which was pretty coked-up. The cleaning went well, but no dice, it's still burning out the F3 fuse and then overheating. This sucks. Really don't want to give money to GM right now, especially to reward their under-engineered garbage parts supply chain.
A carbon fouled EGR cooler is usually the source of the problem. ECU detects low flow based on the temperature sensor reading downstream of the EGR cooler, so it commands the EGR valve to open. When the command doesn't result in increased flow as a result of EGR cooler blockage it keeps trying to open the EGR valve and burns up the electronics in it. The difficulty for a DIY job is that to remove the EGR cooler requires partially draining the engine coolant but to properly replace the coolant and purge the system of air one must run special commands to cycle coolant pumps and flow control solenoids. Since most of us don't have the means to do so we're left to clean the EGR cooler without removing it. I'm doing that now and it's a tremendous PITA. That's in followup to the PITA of removing the catalytic converter to access the EGR cooler.
@@jimmybalsam3696 if you read the fine print of the warranty manual, it says 24,000 miles for emissions, except for things with an asterisk next to them ... the EGR valve does not have the asterisk, thus is subject to only 24k ... the EGR cooler has the asterisk, and thus is covered up to 70,000. .... I think the whole thing is total horseshit, since I've only driven mine 10,000 on ICE, and 30,000 electric. So really, the valve failed after 10K miles. And I wish I had a free lawyer to fight the bastards.
Like Rick mentions near the end of his video, I had similar problems getting all of the readiness monitors to complete after disconnecting the battery on my 2017 Volt. The next day while driving normally, all but 2 of the readiness monitors completed after ~10 minutes of driving at 65 mph and ~3 minutes of stop and go driving in traffic while obeying a 30 mph speed limit. The incomplete monitors were for the: (1) the fuel system and (2) the O2 sensors. The fuel system monitor completed after 2 GM drive cycles, (drive cycles described by Rick near the end of the video) those cycles being separated by at least 8 hours engine off time and the O2 sensors monitor completed after driving ~35 mph for 5 minutes, followed by driving ~55 mph for 15 minutes, as suggested in the UA-cam video: ua-cam.com/video/0hyWGVHYDwI/v-deo.html
So if you are living in a state that requires no incomplete readiness monitors to pass an emissions test and your last remaining incomplete monitor is the O2 sensors monitor, try a simple drive cycle that incorporates driving at~ 35 mph for 5 minutes followed by ~55 mph for 15 minutes, it worked for me.
Thanks for the useful suggestions on the drive cycle!
Chev quoted me $2000 and charged me $175 to tell me they won't fix it. Thank you for your efforts here.
Wish I had seen this post... similar situation. I ended having to pay $250 to the dealer to tell what my problem was - and then, wanted $3500 downpayment to order the part - then informed me that there are no parts available. When I get my car back I will try soaking it for a few days and hope it can operate again. I love my car, but I am totally done with GM. (It seems that many 2016-2019 owners are dealing with this, so I am surprised there isn't a class action lawsuit)
Chevy dealerships are such an absolute scam. $250 just to run the code to see what the problem is. Do you have across the street at the AutoZone and they did it for free…
Great video, worked for me, saved me $$$, Thanks! Some comments for those who want to try this:
1. This was a two-hour job for me. The bolts were difficult to reach; you'll sometimes be going by feel. I needed two lengths of socket extenders. The spacing is tight. I never cut my hands, but I went through several pairs of nitrile gloves. And I went through two handkerchiefs, I was sweating wrestling with this.
2. Like another commenter, I had success just using carburetor cleaner with the straw attached to the nozzle to better direct the spray. I had the Purple Power degreaser on hand but never used it. The force of the cleaning spray really helped. I also used a small wire brush. If you go this way, plan to use a whole can (though you may get away with less).
3. There are two gaskets, one between the flange attaching the metal hose to the front of the EGR valve and the EGR valve and one between the EGR valve and the engine. Keep track of them, they could be easy to lose. The first is clipped to the flange, but the second doesn't have a retention mechanism that I saw, and is just sandwiched in place.
4. In my case, not more than one pint of coolant leaked during the cleaning.
5. All bolts were 10mm. The two on the front flange are shorter than the three on the EGR valve itself. The three on the EGR valve have black plastic(?) bushings on the bolt-head side. These can come out of their seats in the EGR valve, another thing to keep track of.
6. I found removing the black hose secured with the hose clamp to the valve difficult. I removed all the bolts first, then rotated the valve to make getting to the clamp and hose easier.
Good luck!
You can CLEAN THE EGR COOLER without removing it (you will need to remove the manifold cover to gain access to the EGR cooler, shown in video). I tried cleaning this valve several times, convinced I wasn't doing it right. I decided to try cleaning the cooler instead. AT 4:48 Dr. Rick points out the EGR cooler, specifically a pipe that comes out and above the cooler. If you look to the right of this and just below this pipe (can't see it in his video) there is another pipe entering the EGR cooler with a sensor (It's the lowest point you can access the EGR cooler without removing it). I unscrewed this sensor, attached a 1"(I think) clear hose to a small shop vac (with make shift reducers to get it all to connect without losing much suction). Then I sprayed carb cleaner down the pipe (@2:21 where he says "here" in the video) that attaches to the EGR valve. I used almost the whole can. I noticed a big difference in the shop vac as the carbon buildup inside the EGR cooler was cleared. THIS WORKED! I finally passed emissions test. NO ISSUES yet and its been a year since I did this.
Your video tips worked! Saved me 6 weeks of waiting and $1K in labor. Much Love!!
Awesome to hear. So glad it was useful!
Wow, It WORKED!!! You saved me a ton of cash Dr. Curry! I can't thank you enough for this video. I had the same error code message and check engine light. Also, when I accelerated in Hold mode (gas engine would turn on), I would hear a LOUD Pop sound (the EGR was sticking). My local Chevy dealership quoted me $700 part and $1,100 for Labor! I did what you said to do and its fixed. I didn't even use the Purple cleaner. Just a can of Carb cleaner and a metal brush. Only took me 1 hour to fix. Someone PLEASE tell me why the CHEVROLET Dealership wanted to charge me $1,100 for one hour of labor!!! Jerks! NEVER taking my car to a Chevy dealership again.
So glad it saved you some cash. Nice job on the fix!
How has it been going? My car just lit up the check engine light with this error code but previously when in gas mode I also have heard a loud pop when accelerating
@@mratlai7 ours ran well for 18 months. Then the light came back on and we traded it in on a new electric car.
@@FestiveScholar Absolutely ridiculous that the EGR fails so soon and is so damn expensive. Looking to trade for a new EV too.
They would not do what you did. They would replace a part because it is dirty. Note that replacing it does not fix anything. The new one will be in exactly the same system that made it dirty. Dealerships have a license to steal and the political environment today is against consumer protection.
Thanks Rick! Great video. I have a 2017 Volt and I got the Reduced Propulsion warning, and the CEL came on. Took it to the dealer and they sat on it for a week and then said they didn't have the part. They did say it was the EGR valve. The dealer didn't want me to drive it, but the car seems to run fine.Took it home and followed your advice; removed and cleaned the EGR valve. I tried to do the drive cycle, but the traffic was ridiculously slow today and couldn't effectively complete it. I guess I'll just have to wait it out with the regular driving (no emission test constraints where I live). Your video really helped out; it was the best source of information on the internet!
Glad it was useful Glenn. The drive cycle component is horrible to complete if you live anywhere with traffic!
Just some input here. I have been getting intermittent propulsion power limited messages and then noticed a pop or knock intermittently. Tracked it down to when the engine would start. Thought it was the exhaust hitting a bolt under the car. Today I got a cel for p0401 and f3 fuse is not blown. We’ll after reading this comment and watching this video I believe it just needs a good cleaning. I will update after cleaning it.
Did it worked?@@ScootinNTunin
@@68elsancho for about 8k miles, now it’s back on. I plan on cleaning it again here for SmoG reasons. It did not cure the popping sound. That is a service bulletin that requires a ecu update to cure. It does not harm.
@@ScootinNTunin mined started having propulsion power message when engine is cold but onces is operating temp runs amazing only cell I'm getting are the normal no engine start. My plan is to unplug the EGR and drive it to see if issue still there. I'm still cleaning the EGR see what it does
I just want to point out that this video has 27,000 views which is more Chevy volts that were sold in any single year of production, and roughly a third of all chevy volts ever sold. This is a serious problem with the car.
Since posting this video a few years back, I have been surprised how many people have issues with the EGR on the Volt! Definitely concerning.
@@FestiveScholar , With the Gen2 Volt it has 3 things that crop up. Along with this EGR problem the BECM and the "Shift to park" problems. I have taken care of the last 2 but am awaiting the EGR problem. Thanks for your video!
@@glasspilot1how did you fix the shift to park problem?
@@TRyanMooney- I bought the correct microswitch and wire harness attachment. Replace the microswitch and add the harness. The harness reduces the electric so the new switch doesn't arc over again. If you're handy it's not that hard.
Great video and very good presentation..I am having the same issue. But did drive on hold mode after cleaning the EGR ? Or on normal mode??
TL;DR: I can confirm this fix worked for me too! Thanks a lot Rick for discovering the fix and then taking the time to make this video.
Some more details: I followed what Rick said exactly. On my car, even after removing the 5 screws (10mm in case you were wondering), the EGR valve kinda stayed put strong enough that shaking it shook the whole car. I tried a few days later again, and this time gently hitting the EGR valve with a rubber mallet pried it loose. The engine coolant hole is on the engine block (not on the EGR valve itself), so be ready with something to plug it. I used chewing gum, but I don't think it worked well, so I had to buy and refill the coolant. Dunking the EGR valve's metal portion in the purple power for a few hours left behind a residue which I then cleaned of with water and a brush. After a few days of driving, I cleared the fault code and it hasn't come back!
I do want the next person who faces this to experiment something. instead of opening up the whole EGR valve (I can't try it anymore since it's already fixed). With an adjustable wrench, unscrew the nut on the thing Rick points to at 1:55 in the video. That allows you to take out the sensor without opening *any* of the 5 screws. Clean just this probe with some degreaser, put it back together and see if it also clears the code? Please let us know if anybody tries this. It is *MUCH* easier.
So glad it was useful!
I believe that probe in the corrugated pipe is EGR temperature sensor 1. I think the 2nd one is on the far end of the egr cooler.
I don't have the code yet, but I'm chasing a rough idle, and my valve does appear to be sticking a fair bit. I've been watching the "commanded EGR" and "EGR error" readings on my OBD2 scanner.
I don't think it's the cause of my rough idle, but I may clean the valve anyway before it gets worse.
Since I couldn’t get to the bottom two bolts due to such a tight space, I cleaned the EGR valve without taking the whole thing off as you mentioned in the second part of your comment. It’s been about 24 hrs since and I am waiting to see if the check engine light disappears. I’ll be back to post an update. It’d be great if it could be cleaned without taking the whole thing off. I can hardly get to the bolts even with my tiny hands. 😩
@@kimberlynguyen927any updates on how it worked for you?
@@kimberlynguyen927 Reporting back after cleaning the EGR valve. My check engine light never went away after a couple months of driving. I went to an auto repair shop and they concluded that I had to get a whole new EGR valve which is on national back-order. Now deciding if I should get one from eBay with the risk of no warranty or get one through O'Reilly's/dealership with a warranty. Who knows when the ones with warranty will be available though.
Rick, Thank you so much for this video. It allowed me to drive 250 miles home from NJ to Rhode Island. You saved me a bunch of time, money, and aggravation. Just unplugging the EGR (the lock on the connecter took a bit of figuring out) and replacing the 15 amp #3 fuse (Non Walk Home" fuse) did the trick. Since it is covered I am taking it in to a dealer.
So glad it was useful!
Where is the #3 fuse (Non Walk Home fuse) located
@@FestiveScholar
Thanks for posting this. I had the exact same issue. Back in 2021, I waited 6 months for a back ordered part. BTW, at the time GM informed me that the repair was specifically excluded by the drivetrain warranty. Fortunately, I had a supplemental warranty that covered the cost.
Thanks for sharing
Worked for my brothers Volt. You are the man. Thank you so much. Check engine light went away within 24 hours. We used Ace Hardware's purple degreaser instead of purple power and their version of carb/choke cleaner.
Out of a sense of worry, I checked the warranty booklet for the Volt.....
It seems here in CA, most all smog components are covered under a 15 year/150,000 mile warranty for TZEV vehicles.
EGR valve and cooler are specifically named as covered.
So good news ! whoot.
Nice
What year is your volt? I have a 2018 with this same issue.
Great to know
F*ck Texas
The dealership is named Cody Chevrolet, located in Montpelier, Vermont. They are terrible. Love the Volt, don't love this dealership.
I just did this job. It is not for the faint of heart. I have worked on cars for over 50 years. Modern cars are very challenging especially electric cars. Things are so tightly packed under the hood. One item I think was not discussed was the small coolant hose attached to the EGR valve. Now that I've done the job, I would probably advise others to remove the end of the hose NOT at the EGR valve. The clamp can be quite difficult to release on the EGR end, but the other end looks more accessible. Now that the job is done, I am not as pleased as I thought I'd be having save myself from paying the dealer. I reused the existing gaskets and I only hope that the EGR to engine block gasket re-seals and doesn't leak coolant. You will need GM coolant to top off because you will lose some during this job. My EGR wasn't all that bad. The temperature probe in the outlet of the EGR might just be where the CPU senses temperature. Perhaps just cleaning that probe (easily removed with one open end wrench) would be sufficient. I'm not sure. I cleaned mine anyhow. Good luck if you attempt this job. You need to be rather good with wrenches, sockets, extensions, magnets etc. Just don't overtighten the bolts into the ALUMINUM block. I did not have any codes, I did this as a preventive measure.
Just finished this job, I attempted to remove the clamp based on your comment, however the small hose impedes use of pliers for removing it from the non-EGR side. Maybe if i were left-handed it would've been easier. Personally, it was easier to remove the hose on the EGR side.YMMV
Oh. Forgot to mention! If you remove the hose on the non-egr side, it vomits a ton of extra coolant. Must be below the coolant in the system, so it will vomit until it's at the same level.
Tip for others attempting this: Don't use a degreaser (PurplePower, Simple Green, etc) as they corrode aluminum and must be thoroughly rinsed and removed with a solvent. Preferably don't use carb cleaner or brake cleaner either, as there are rubbers and plastics they can damage. Certain carb cleaners are safe-ish (no acetone, etc) and certain fuel system cleaners should be safe (SeaFoam, Gumout Regane, Techron) but need to be rinsed with a solvent. Any fuel system cleaner with PEA will likely work best on the carbon deposits, especially if kept warm during soaking. Anything remaining should be cleaned and rinsed with high concentration isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol, and allowed to dry fully. Denatured alcohol, or just methanol (Everclear) technically leaves residue but only a very small amount and should be aggressive enough to clean and rinse everything start to finish without damage.
I have a 2016 Volt exactly like Rick's (same color and state). I blew the 15 amp ( No wak Home Fuse) fuse on a trip from Houston to Austin. The car started running poorly so i turned on the heater and popped the hood band kept the car around 220° (thank God it was cool outsi 10:00 de). The CEL came on too. On the way home i disconnected the EGR Valve wiring harness and replaced the fuse and had no problems with overheating. I had heard that GM was starting to produce (or rebuild) EGR Valves so i took a chanceand order one from GM Parts Center online. The price was $175 plus a $125 core charge and wouldn't you know it they shipped it out three days later. I'm getting it later this week and will clean the cooler and install the new EGR. My fingers are crossed as i need to get the car inspected this month 1/25.
The moral of this is that there seem to be EGR Valves available now.
Thanks for sharing. Good to know they are now more readily available and a lot cheaper!
I don't even have this problem with my Volt but I'm glad this is here. Thanks meng.
No problem!
I just did the decarboning and all I can say is that you are a far, far, FAR more capable wrench turner than I am because getting the inner three bolts off and then back on were as hard as any complete engine change I have ever done....Plus I lost my small 10mm wrench and socket somewhere in the bowels of the Volt...Aarch.
Ah, I hate it when the car eats up sockets!! lol. Hopefully it able to, at least temporarily, fix the issue.
Thanks man. This worked! I used b12 Chemtool spray and a power washing degreaser/hot water. Worked good. My cat would get red hot while idling the engine. After cleaning it stays nice and cool. So far so good. 2017 volt.
I can help to wonder that the Volt EGR issues are related to the functional design of the car itself. The ICE augments the battery pack. The engine starts / stops for short periods particularly in the winter. I suspect most EGR failures are related to the crankcase not often enough being allowed to get sufficiently hot enough and long enough to burn off harmful carbon and moisture within which leads to eventual EGR failure. I could be wrong. But, I run my ICE hard and often. I’ve also deselected the cold assist mode.
Thanks for the helpful info and the location of the part...because you can clean all this carbon by spraying some kerosene or if if you jet fuel you can spray and this will clean like magic...also the purple cleaner or simple green will help too
You are the man, got this code in my gen 2. Did the soak with the purple power and cleaned it good. Installed and no egr code. Did however throw a o2 sensor code the carbon might have went downstream and clogged the o2 sensor. That's replaced and no codes for about a week. Thanks
Nice job! Glad it helped
Dr. Rick - Glad I found your video and thanks for taking the time to put this together. Few questions: 1) Someone mentioned we'd need to top off the cooler fluid. You didn't mention that, so please confirm, and if so, where do we top it off? 2) It wasn't clear about the drive cycle. What I understood is that after doing the cleaning, then clear the code with the scanner, and then we have to do that drive cycle to permanently clear it? Or do we do the drive cycle to clear it without the scanner? 3) For the drive cycle, when you say a speed like up to 55 MPH, does that mean above 55? And when you say 3 minutes, you mean exact, or at least 3 minutes? 4) And when you say down to 25 MPH, you mean just below that and then immediately punch it back to above 55MPH...that right? 5) And is there any way for me to know if I did it right or not? Thanks in advance for your help.
Hi Musud. It's always a good idea to check the fluid levels. My coolant levels were fine after my repair, so I didn't need to add any, but if you do, it's easy, and the coolant can be purchased at any auto store. Just make sure it's for GM vehicles. The drive cycle will complete itself and clear the codes without you having to do all the crazy steps. It will just take a week or so of regular driving. I only needed to do the immediate reset because my inspection was expired and I didn't want to get a ticket. If you need the immediate reset, yes, go up to the speeds mentioned and then go to the next step. Good luck!
Thanks for this video. Fingers crossed my DTC readiness checks clear and I can get it inspected before I'm overdue.
All of my DTC readiness checks except for one (O2 sensor I believe) cleared on my drive into work the morning after cleaning my EGR valve. My state allows one to be uncleared, so I got it inspected later in the day and it passed without issue. No CEL yet. Fingers crossed again, but at least now I don't have the pressure of my inspection expiring in a few weeks. So thanks again. Maybe I'll start saving for the repair. Or a fully electric car lol.
So glad it was helpful! The state inspection being expired was the biggest issue I had, but it ran issue free for another 15 months before popping back up again. I reset it again and traded it on something new.
It did not look that cruddy. Unless that is total blockage at 2:16. Did the car shut down or run rough? Miss or burp every now and then?
Hey bro I have the problem of the oil pressure sensor but I can't find it do you know where is it so I can replace it?
Unfortunately, I don't. Try searching for the service manual online. I think when I used it (it's been a few years ago) I had to pay a few bucks for access. Good luck with your repair.
This video is very helpful except I cant figure out how to take off the electronic components and I dont want to damage it
Tried this and did not work. CEL came on right away. I did have a clogged EGR cooler which i was able to free up. A can of 16oz TBC was used. I had to take that flex tube off egr actuator off then the tube post egr cooler which is on the side of engine. Its tight and lots of shap hose clamps cutting you up. I put air in one side and barely got air out the other. Sprayed TBC waited 5min and blew air through. Got some gunk out. Did 3 times and got good airflow. Put back together and no CEL. The cooler is like $180 but you have to remove the converter to get to it. Which is a big job. Rusted exhaust bolts suck to deal with. I can help anyone walk through the process if interested.
I am currently in the same boat you were after cleaning the EGR valve. I have already bought the egr cooler replacement but if I can avoid replacing it I am all ears. Is the CEL still off currently?
@@voltmania4579 light is still off. I drive 120 miles a day so it worked. Leave me a way to contact you and I'll walk you through it.
2 months later and the light is still out. Seems the repair has worked.
Did you do this from above or below? It seems like there is not enough room to operate from above. So basically you removed the intake flex pipe and the outflowing pipe. Then you sprayed cleaner and blasted with air. Am I missing anything?
@@schultp did from the top. No lift or creeper required. You just have to work around tight spaces but it is doable.
Hi Rick! Great video! My wife's 2018 with 188000KM has this code. I will do a cleaning on the EGR valve and cooler this weekend. Fingers crossed.
Update: i used carbon cleaner with this method. Cleaned the egr valve with spray nine and some carbon engine cleaner. I then sprayed a bunch of carbon cleaner into the cooler and let it sit for about 10 min. Cooler was plugged up but the carbon cleaner worked well. Permanent fault code cleared now.
@@shannonsmith148it’s been a while hello, just wanted to know if you can update us on how’s it’s been now? Have you had the code come up again? I might take mine to a shop they will charge me about. $280~300 to clean both the egr valve and cooler so wanted to make sure this does indeed work
Thank you I’m advance
Thanks for the video, looking at the same vehicle at auction with the same code!
Rick, could you please add a Nov 2023 update to the description? Curious what the long-term results have been!
Hi there! I ended up trading my Volt in on a Tesla Performance about a year after creating this video. At that time, I didn't have any issues.
I have the same problem and have been quoted $1500 to fix it also with the Chevy Dealer here in Houston, Texas.
Did you also clean the cooler? You don't mention that in the closing comments.
Thanks for the video!
Sorry for the late response - but replying now in the event others have the same question in the future - I didn't do anything to the EGR cooler and my issue was resolved for over a year. The light eventually came back on and I cleaned it again. It went off again and I ended up trading the car in with around 117k miles.
It did work perfect with me in addition I cleaned th O2 sensors same way..passed inspection ❤❤
So glad it was helpful!
Great video. Between Facebook groups and your YT video I think I have it figured out what I need to do on a road trip if I get P0401.
Thanks for the help! Did you have to do anything to drain and dry out the egr valve before reinstalling?
You rock mate. Easy/quick fix and it worked.
thanks for saving me some money
Does it help to use additives like Seafoam occasionally to prevent this problem or even after the code goes off? Maybe laquer thinner would work too. I've cleaned dirty catalytic converters enough to clear the code and get it to run better by adding that to the gas tank and driving for an hour or so.
Have no idea, but great question. Maybe a mechanic can chime in if they see your comment and let us know.
As long as the EGR valve doesn't blow the non-walk-home fuse, it just needs a cleaning.
problem with these, is that the engine sometimes doesn't reach operating temperature, mine has come online a mile or 2 from home.
Awesome advice and walk-thru Dr. Curry. Thanks for doing the work, we are able to save a bunch of $$.
You bet!
200k miles on my 2017. My CEL is on and it is throwing the code. I recently had the EGR cooler replaced, so im almost positive that it is the valve failing - right? Because if the cooler was replaced recently... It has to be the valve.
Cleaning it, im hoping will work - thoughts? Im basically ready to do it - but im also looking to get an EGR valve.
Since you replaced the cooler, the odds are it's the valve. The positive note is that the valve is much simpler and cheaper than the cooler! It's worth the shot to try cleaning it before replacement and seeing if that solves your problem. You can take the sensor off the front and tell by looking in the valve what condition it's in before you even take it off. Let us know how it goes and good luck!
Awesome man, glad you were able to get it fixed without dropping $1500. Considering picking up a 2017 Volt with 35k on it today, been looking around at different issues and what all is needed to fix them. Luckily I live in San Antonio where we don't have to worry about that emissions crap, but I still don't like having a check engine light on.
Thank you for the upload. Gonna try this method next week. I’ll keep you updated.
Alexander Vousden good luck! Let us know how it goes.
Dr. Rick Curry so I did this method and cleared the code. It’s been 2 weeks and the CEL hasn’t come back on. However, my Volt now seems to run pretty rough on ICE. It jolts, hesitates, and runs hard. Suggestions? Is it possible that air got in the coolant when I took the EGR off?
Alexander Vousden haven’t personally run into this issue. For the last year, my volt has run a little rough on ICE, especially on idle. It could be a result of the EGR issues- but I’m honestly not sure. I don’t think Air in the fluid would effect how it runs on ICE- it would effect the heater, etc. There’s some UA-cam videos where A few people had Heat issues and it was due to low coolant levels and/or air in the system. If this is the case, you’d hear a “gurgling” noise from the dash. Check your coolant levels and with your car parked on an incline, run the heat on high for a few minutes and it will purge the line. There’s also the chance the issues are unrelated. Any other codes thrown or shown as pending ?
I wish you would have shown how to remove the electrical connector.
Sorry! I guess I had taken it on and off so many times it was just second nature to me. Look for the tabs and work with it. It usually comes out pretty easily.
Any clue where the thermostat is? I keep getting a Thermostat CEL and looks like about to tackle that job but there’s no diy write ups or videos.
Search for the service manual online and you can find the location and procedure for repair of the thermostat: www.gm-volt.com/threads/ Reddit is also a good place to find the service manual.
I'm texan too and they just got rid of the inspection requirement!...
Unfortinately I live in an emissions testing county
Thanks for a great video!👍🏻👍🏻
What are the torque specs for two and three bolts used when reinstalling the EGR valve?
Thanks again!
Unsure of the torque specs. I just hand tightened until moderate resistance. If you run across that info feel free to drop it in the comments and I’ll add it into the description. Thanks!
So, what is that confusing "drive cycle" you did? Why does it need to be done in the very specific way? Is it to make that part start working completely again? Does it have to be done if I don't need to pass an inspection?
Hi there. No, the drive cycle doesn't need to be done if you don't need to pass an inspection. The car will automatically clear the codes over a week via everyday driving. My car was past inspection, and I didn't want to get ticketed or pay the fees, so I was under a time crunch and needed to clear them quickly.
Is the EGR valve location different in a 2012 volt? Took a look in my engine bay and it didn’t appear to be the same layout.
Yes, unfortunately the prior body design is going to be a bit different.
This is a problem with Gen 2 Volts, your's is a Gen1. Don't think you have to worry.
How much fluid did you lose when taking the valve off?
Not much at all. Fluid levels were still good and didn’t need any additional coolant. That of course may differ for others, so just check it after you finish to make sure.
Did you have to bleed the coolant system after you put the EGR back on?
I didn’t. Just check your coolant levels after completing the clean and make sure they’re within range.
Do I have to force the valve off after unbolting it? I took off every bolt that seems to be holding it in place but it still won't budge.
Good afternoon, tell me before cleaning the USR valve, did you disconnect the terminals from the 12-volt battery?
Пульс Земли No, i did not. The service manual didn’t call for it to be disconnected.
@@FestiveScholar Thank you!)
Same code cleaned EGR did not work then removed cooler mount exhaust house sensor then 2 bolts sprayed sea foam carb cleaner had to get creative to feed the red draw all the way into the EGR cooler. Connected idled engine for five mins cooled and put more in on warmed engine. Code did not trip have run 100 miles no code
I just got mine replaced by the dealership you have to tell them that it is covered under the PZEV LIMITED WARRANTY as long as it’s under 150k miles they won’t charge mine was at 84k when the egr valve and egr cooler had issues.
Nice! Here in Texas, they wouldn't touch it under warranty work, but hopefully, they've changed their tune now that they've had a lot of them with issues! Thanks for the suggestion.
@@FestiveScholar I’m in Arlington Tx but got the service done in Fort Worth with no charge maybe it depends on your dealer but they didn’t give me any problems
Man I wonder if my local dealer here in Alabama will honor that PZEV warranty
Have you tried CLP that is used to clean carbon from guns? Spray it on and it dissolves it right off.
Hi Rick... do you know if Volt 2015 has EGR valve as well? I tried to located it but it seems it's in different location or does not exist.
EGR valves are a required emissions component so it’s going to have one, unfortunately I don’t have any experience with the model year. There are sites where you can access the service manuals and can find the location there. Try: www.gm-volt.com/threads/2012-chevy-volt-service-manual.19294/
Thanks a lot man. @@FestiveScholar
I have cleaned it twice clear the fault code but came backdo you think its better just to replace the valve and not the cooler. and if i keep driving it with the fault will it do harm to the engine by not replacing it. Thanks.
It won't hurt the car to drive with it on. I only needed to clear mine for state emissions testing. Many folks are having issues with the coolers now, and depending on where you're located, it's possible it's covered up to 150,000 miles. I'd check with a few local dealerships and see if it's still warrantied. Worth a shot!
Beautiful!
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU...🙏🏼
You are so welcome!
Thanks - great explanation. Anything to keep money out of the dealership’s pockets!!! What’s the “Dr” in your screen name refer to?
Glad you found it useful! To answer your question, I have a PhD. and am a college professor. 99% of my videos are course related learning videos so I keep it in my name header for those purposes.
Dr. Rick Curry thanks - just wondering because I work at a medical center and we have a lot of docs who own Chevy volts.
@@FestiveScholar Good to see a Doctor willing to get his hands dirty working on a car!!!!
Hey I wish I had your same reaction and outcome you did after I did this. But no luck for me :-( and my inspection is due this month. I soaked mine overnight. I also sprayed carb cleaner down the cooler while engine is running, read that somewhere. P0401 came back after reset. With scan tool egr error remained at negative 70% to mostly 96-100%. Fuse has never went out and coolant has never gone over 217. Any other thoughts?
Thanks for the video! About how much coolant fluid came out of the engine? I see the coolant flow is via one hose and presumably a duct into the engine block.
Hi Dave. I let the coolant hose attached so my fluid levels were basically unchanged from before. Always a good idea to check levels after and make sure, if you do no need to add, that you use the GM specific coolant.
@@FestiveScholar Thanks - so nothing dribbled out of the engine (or head) block?
@@DaveLaneNS Im sure there was some. It’s been a few years since I did this so the specific amount isn’t something I recall. My fluid levels were the same before and after so any loss was minimal.
I just took my Chevy 2017 volt to the dealership with the same problem: clogged egr/cooler due to using regular gas instead of premium.
They replaced the system for free under GM extended warranty of 15 years/ 150k miles.
The same applies to the BECM problem.
From now on, I will only use premium fuel plus ocasional fuel system cleaner.
Also, driving on gas could contribute to cleaning the system.
I am very skeptical that regular gas could cause this problem. Is this a known issue that regular gas clogs egrs?
Yeah I don't think too that using premium will solve this situation. Your engine may run even more sluggish until the computer relearn. Running the engine on hold mode, highway speed once a week will do a better cleaning that EGR valve. Also, cleaning the EGR valve once a year, like explained in this video will probably save you some troubles.
Is there a trick to getting the clip off the connector to the egr valve?
Hi 4N. I don't own a Volt anymore or I'd go outside and take a look at the clip! To the best of my memory I squeezed both sides with my thumb and pointer finger while rock it back and forth and it slid out. Maybe someone who has done this more recently and comment with some suggestions.
I'm having a lot of trouble with this connector as well. Definitely can't just pinch from the sides. There appears to be a tab on the underside (great placement GM) but I can't figure out how it releases.
@@leegratz4447 yeaaaaaah, I ended up breaking it. It does take some TLC to get them off. there's a tab on the underside that needs to be finagled
also, my volt is currently in the shop for the egr cooler and valve replacements. the valve is backordered til the end of Feb. I was able to clean it..., it worked perfectly for like a month, then back to failure. cost = $2500 (cooler, valve, and the 100,000 mi battery trans flush)
@@4n6dave that sucks. Sorry to hear it.
I eventually got the wiring harness disconnected after breaking off that piece of the clip/tab. A little mirror helped me see what I was doing. I think the tab was supposed to slide back allowing you to push up on the middle. After teasing out the remains of the tab/clip I was able to push on the correct spot (with the help of the mirror). I can't imagine the design engineer looking at that connection with the release facing down thinking "Yeah, that looks good!"
After removing and cleaning the valve as best I could, I reinstalled and will see what happens. I cleared the code and drove around a little (in Hold drive mode) but didn't have it in me to look up and jump through the DTC readiness check hoops. I just need it to pass inspection next month and then I'll revaluate.
Shouldn’t this repair have been covered under the 8 year/ 100,000 warranty on the hybrid drive system? My light turned on yesterday and the dealer appointment is later this week.
Any update if it was covered under that warranty, my light turned on today and i did a scan
Here in Texas, they told me no, it wasn't covered, although posters in other areas of the country seem to have had better luck with Chevy. Unfortunately, it seems to be a hit or miss - but definitely worth trying to get Chevy to fix it before you try a self-fix.
Wife just came home and I got the P0401 code. How do you disconnect the electrical connector from the egr valve? I feel like I'm going to break it
Been a while since I’ve done this, but it should be a push connector. Squeeze and pull. Good luck with your repair!
@@FestiveScholar yea its very different from all the other connectors. I'm not seeing or feeling any push pin to release it
I finally got the connector off. How the hell did you get to the bottom bolts lol? My big and hands aren't getting in there
@@SnakeDoctor303 how did you get it off??? I see there's a Grey tab on the underside...just squeeze it? Or Is the Grey tab a lock that has to be pulled out??? Thanks
@@danschoen3349 pull it out
So, one thing I’ve heard that comes along with that fault, is a blown fuse that you can’t cure with a new fuse until you remedy the EGR issue.
You might want to show your viewers where that fuse is.
Thanks for the heads up, Patrick. I didn’t run into that issue with ours, and we’ve recently traded it on another car.
I got that code on my 16.. it didn't seem to blow my NWH F3 fuse.. I heard you can uplug the EGR valve and keep driving. I did blow that fuse once before without that code.
@@ilovemyevo556
What you do, is un-plug the EGR, and THEN replace the fuse.
Otherwise, it’ll often blow the fuse repeatedly.
If it’s blowing the fuse, you probably need to replace the EGR valve itself.
If you unplug the EGR and replace the fuse can you operate the car indefinitely?
How common would you say this issue is? I was about to close the deal on a used 2018 Volt, but found this in a search for problems as I'm concerned about reliability.
The Volt was one of the most popular PHEV's sold - so I wouldn't take the comments on this video as representative of the larger sample of folk who have bought one. It is problematic to see the same issue popping up with folks - but i know many other volt owners who have had no issues. Given what i know now, I would still purchase my Volt again. It's been a great car (we actually own 2)!
@@FestiveScholar thank you. im torn on this or the i3 rex as consumer reports claims the i3 has above average reliability.
@@BoopSnoot I’ve actually owned both. I loved my I3 but it was in the shop 5 times in one year for battery charging issues. The last time the kept it 1 month before they were going to buy it back via lemon law. Again ( just like with the Volt- that’s just my experience). The Volt feels and drives like a regular car. I’ve taken it on 2,000 mile road trips. The i3 was a great around the city car. Zippy, more fun to drive than the Volt, and I loved the futuristic interior. I had the range extender version but the car wasn’t really drivable on long trips. Anything further than an hour and half and you find yourself stopping for gas every 30 mins. Having owned both- pick the one you feel most drawn to. You can’t really go wrong with either. Good luck in your purchase !
Did you also get the "Propulsion Power Reduced" message? Does the car run normally in EV mode with this code and CEL?
I personally didn't have the propulsion power reduced message, and for me, yes the car ran fine in EV mode even when it was throwing the codes and had the issues.
thanks I was about to change the oxygen sensors. thanks to the video economies me a good money thanks again
Glad I could help
Spray cans of brake/parts cleaner works great for cleaning up an EGR valve and flow sensor.
I'm hoping to try this but I can't reach the bottom two bolts on the valve with the limited tools that I have. What can I get to get in those tight spaces?
You can try a small 5 inch ratchet extension that will extend it out far enough for you turn it. If you don’t have one, most auto part places have them for free rental. Try autozone or o’rileys if they’re in your area.
how about just disconnecting the batter to reset things to avoid having to do that crazy drive cycle?
Resetting the drive cycle doesn’t mean resetting the check engine light. All vehicles have something called readiness monitors. The computer tests onboard systems and some of those tests take a while to complete. This is true for any vehicle post 1995.
Thank you for this. Did you have a reduced propulsion message as well, or any other codes thrown? My 2017 broke down months ago (its a CPO with warranty) - Chevy has had it for 2+months telling me it needs a new EGR. The part is on national backorder with no ship date in sight... cant source it from any sellers in US, and no aftermarket will work per Chevy. Debating pulling it from Chevy and trying this, but I had a myriad of other codes that were thrown when the EGR failed. Chevy has given me the worst customer experience I've ever had. Making it sound like its my fault that they are an American company (that was bailed out with tax dollars) who chose to have their parts manufactured overseas. They refuse to give a loaner, or provide proof of reimbursement for a rental. Nobody is lifting a finger.
Sorry to hear about your experience, Alec. The EGR will often throw other codes (like the propulsion one). The EGR also won’t hurt the car if driven while you wait for the part. It’s emissions related only. Mine eventually threw the code again a year and half later and I had to clean it again. Last year you could get the EGRs on eBay for a few hundred. Hope your issue gets resolved soon.
@@FestiveScholar Thanks for the reply. I managed to find one at an out of state Chevy dealer for about %200 normal price. Seemed worth it considering everything. A bit disheartening that it seems this will be a repeat occurrence with the car. Debating trading it in for a 22 WRX.. Those gas prices though.. Hoping the EGR is the only issue as some of the other codes seemed to indicate a misfire in a cylinder. We will see next week... Ill be sure they give me the old EGR back so I can clean it and rotate it in when this other one starts throwing codes lol
Did you reuse all the gaskets attached to the valve?
Yes, I did. They’re cheap to replace however, if you’re planning ahead I’d go ahead and grab some replacements.
Alright last question haha. Do you think I can clean it and get that valve moving without taking it off?
Sorry to hear of the issue getting to the bolts. I remember getting a few knuckles scuffed up trying to access it, but really it's the only way to get it off. Maybe get some beer and pizza and bring some friends over with some smaller hands.. lol. Unfortunately, it's not a part that can be cleaned in place. It will need to be removed. I think the parts and prices have come down significantly in the last year, in the event you have to have it worked on. Also, it's not going to damage or hurt the car. It's purely emissions based. I drove mine daily for 10 months with the light on, and finally cleaned it/ cleared the codes once my yearly inspection was due.
@@FestiveScholar yea I can tell it just needs cleaned. 2017 with 68k on it. Kinda shocked that this part needs cleaned. My jeep is a 2014 and never had this issue and she has 106k miles on it. I got 4 bolts off. I'll get the 5th. What fluid comes out from the back? Coolant?
@@SnakeDoctor303 i just did this and think its my EGR cooler but yes youll loose about 1L of coolant so put a tray down. as for fully removing. you can just take off the outward facing side...but youll only be able to clean that side. if it doesnt fix your problem youll end up taking off the whole thing anyway. (watch out for the bushings on the 3 bolts holding the EGR to the block, they get lost quick
@@SnakeDoctor303 what size bolts were they?
Thank you for posting this! I am having this same issue.
This actually worked! I saved 1800 bucks! It only cost me 20 bucks to clean the part
Do you think it’s bad gasoline quality that causes this?
@@25anomaly I'm not sure but I think it's a pretty common problem with volts
The first gen required premium fuel, they changed the engine around but maybe this would run cleaner on premium fuel too who knows. Glad you fixed yours for cheap!
Susan Lawrence glad to hear this worked for you also!
Thank you for this very helpful video! Are you the original owner, and have you been using top tier gas?
I purchased it with 13k miles. Have never put anything but regular unleaded in it (that’s the recommended fuel by gm).
@@FestiveScholar GM also recommends top tier gasolines-www.autolist.com/guides/top-tier-gas
@@FestiveScholar
Top-tier is not indicative of octane.
It’s quality of fuel.
You think it would be a recall for this with so many people having g issues
I agree!
After cleaning do you have to clear code or will it clear its self over time?
It will clear itself over a period of a few hundred miles and then the light will also go off. You can also have a local advance auto parts, o’Reilly’s, or autozone clear it for free if you’re impatient.
Cleaned the valve a week ago and had the code cleared by dealer it has not come back on since. Normally after the code is cleared 3 days before it would come back on.
@@TheMrtuber awesome !
How do you remove the connected wiring?
The clip has a lock underneath that slides towards the front . Then it slides off easily. I used the can opener tool on my swiss army knife to hook pull the locking tab. It was too hard for my finger alone.
@@eray1066 I tried using a screwdriver to slide it back and I think the lip of it snapped off. Real pain in the ass.
Copied from another reply I made above...
I eventually got the wiring harness disconnected after breaking off that piece of the clip/tab. A little mirror helped me see what I was doing. I think the tab was supposed to slide back allowing you to push up on the middle. After teasing out the remains of the tab/clip I was able to push on the correct spot (with the help of the mirror). I can't imagine the design engineer looking at that connection with the release facing down thinking "Yeah, that looks good!"
What bolts were on the egr? I need to change mine but i just moved and dont wanna buy a whole set til i get more moneh
10mm
@@TheDaveANH i figured it out. Thank you though! It worked for a few days than same code aha. Its that damn cooler
Yeah, that was my fear with mine. There was no way I was changing/ cleaning the cooler with the tools I have.
Did cleaning the valve clear the check engine light?
Yes, has been clear for over a year now with no further issues.
It is coolant that comes out, no? If so, is there a certain type that needs to be put back in, or just any?
Yes, it will lose some coolant. Gm vehicles use Dex-cool which is found at any auto parts store.
@@FestiveScholar Did you need to bleed the system or just top it off ?
@@drsconsulting7087 just top it off If needed.
Just in case this helps anyone else who comes across these comments while looking into this...
There is a coolant hose that runs from a rigid metal connector on the left side of the EGR valve to the right and down to the engine. I was able to remove the hose where it connects to the EGR valve (with some difficulty) and lost maybe a few ounces of coolant only. It ran out from the connector on the EGR valve, and I could see the hose was filled up to the open end that I had just removed. I just made sure not to bend it down to avoid spilling any more. After cleaning and reinstalling the EGR valve, I didn't feel the need to replace any coolant.
A note on removing the coolant hose where it connects to the EGR valve...I ended up using a pair of needle nosed pliers (a bent or curved pair would've made it much easier) to loosen to hose clamp and used the open end of a box wrench that was the same diameter of the hose to ease the clamp down. I did the reverse when reinstalling.
Thank god that in CA it’s covered for 10 years so I had mines replaced for free.
That would have been nice! Out of warranty when I did it : (
I called the dealership & they said they didn’t cover it. Do you know what the coverage is called for it?
@@getfilipino123 Dealers lie. It may be covered but slimy dealers will say it's not covered when it is. Do research online and bring it in to plead your case. Just because dealers don't get adequately covered for warranty work shouldn't be the customers problem.
is that a state law? where can i find the information?
Do u need new gaskets?
Hi Chris! I used the existing gaskets without any issues.
@@FestiveScholar that's for the video it helped alot..did mine Saturday I seen on one of the comments that you did reuse original so said screw it I'm doing lol now i just got to clear the check engine light
@@GirlDad420 Glad it was helpful, Cris!
@@FestiveScholarcheck engine light cleared on its own 🙏..Monday morning no light 👏
How the hell did you get this off lol. I cant get to several bolts
Not sure if you ever ended up trying this @Gunner but access is definitely an issue. It helped me to disconnect the wiring that is in the way and beyond that it's all about small enough hands, long enough fingers, ratchet extensions, and dexterity. I found the bolt on the bottom left of the EGR valve as well as the coolant hose (disconnecting/reconnecting it from/to the EGR valve) to be the most challenging in terms of access. The wiring harness connected to the top of the EGR valve (which has its release on the bottom side) was a real pain in the ass too.
Do we need to use premium gas?
Not in gen2 (2016+)
Did you end up having to replace the cooler? I wonder if you can just clean the cooler instead of replacing?
Never cleaned or replaced the cooler.. and no further issues!
Did you reuse the old gaskets or buy new ones?
I reused all the original parts.
hows it workin now about 8 months later? did the issue come back?
13k miles later and zero issues. No lights, or codes. I’m sure it will wait right until inspection time if it’s going to have any issues....
@@FestiveScholar I ended up picking a 2017 off lease with only 22kmi, fully loaded with ACC managed to talk them down to 19000. It required me flying out from houston to LAX over two weekends (one to view/test drive, the next to finalize paperwork and drive it back)
Fantastic vehicle, love it.
So glad I don’t have those stupid state inspections!
Fortunately, Texas has moved to end them here also! I know it sure caused a lot of issues for me in this particular instance.
@@FestiveScholar
People waste a lot of fuel there, & elsewhere, trying to make their cars pass smog inspection.
Sounds like they make more emissions just to get tested!
Mine failed before 30k miles. Thanks GM.
Sorry to hear that
@@FestiveScholar My dealership basically fixed it for free after letting it sit in their lot for months. GM kept ping ponging me back and forth. I did get the government involved and that’s when they got it resolved. The dealerships and GM know it’s a defect - they just don’t care.
This isn't a GM problem, it's EPA INSANITY. Nothing in nature is designed to swallow its own waste. Plants, animals, ANYTHING produces a form of waste and it's called waste for a reason. Those things shouldn't exist. But, thank God I have the Gen1 VOLT. NO EGR SYSTEM !!!!😊
Thanks for the info!
You bet!
Still on backorder 6/18/22
Seems like more and more people are having an issue with this now. I have heard the price has come down significantly - so that's a positive (if they're ever readily available again).
Spent 1/2 my day removing, cleaning and reinstalling the EGR, which was pretty coked-up. The cleaning went well, but no dice, it's still burning out the F3 fuse and then overheating. This sucks. Really don't want to give money to GM right now, especially to reward their under-engineered garbage parts supply chain.
Hey John, did you ever have your issue resolved? Your symptoms match mine exactly on a 2017 Volt. Thanks!
Thanks so much!
You're welcome!
Another reason to get GEN1 VOLT. NO EGR SYSTEM AT ALL.
Can I bring my car to you?
A carbon fouled EGR cooler is usually the source of the problem. ECU detects low flow based on the temperature sensor reading downstream of the EGR cooler, so it commands the EGR valve to open. When the command doesn't result in increased flow as a result of EGR cooler blockage it keeps trying to open the EGR valve and burns up the electronics in it.
The difficulty for a DIY job is that to remove the EGR cooler requires partially draining the engine coolant but to properly replace the coolant and purge the system of air one must run special commands to cycle coolant pumps and flow control solenoids. Since most of us don't have the means to do so we're left to clean the EGR cooler without removing it. I'm doing that now and it's a tremendous PITA. That's in followup to the PITA of removing the catalytic converter to access the EGR cooler.
It should be covered by the Voltec or Emission Warranty.
GM limited its coverage of the emissions control system to 24 months.
@@kimnesvig254 Makes sense on a vehicle designed primarily for environmental sustainability...
This should be covered under the emissions warranty
peterdaniel66 I agree, it should be! Chevy, however, disagreed.
@@jimmybalsam3696 if you read the fine print of the warranty manual, it says 24,000 miles for emissions, except for things with an asterisk next to them ... the EGR valve does not have the asterisk, thus is subject to only 24k ... the EGR cooler has the asterisk, and thus is covered up to 70,000. .... I think the whole thing is total horseshit, since I've only driven mine 10,000 on ICE, and 30,000 electric. So really, the valve failed after 10K miles. And I wish I had a free lawyer to fight the bastards.