2005 Rav4 tensioner pulley fix
Вставка
- Опубліковано 16 тра 2022
- 2005 Rav4 tensioner pulley fix. There are a lot of good UA-cam videos on several parts of this job (but none I found for a 2005), and I'm not trying to compete with them for a step-by-step video. But, if you don't want to take off your motor mount and jack up the motor and/or remove your crankshaft pulley, you may learn some useful ideas from my video. Disclaimer: I used a slightly shorter bolt than the factory bolt, so it has about 10 mm shorter thread grip. You can see the difference in the video. I cannot guarantee that this will last forever.
- Навчання та стиль
Thats a great alternative idea to 1. Taking off engine mount or 2. Taking off pulley.
Thanks for the video. I thought this problem only existed for the 2004.
Thanks for the video… what a chore this job was on a routine serpentine belt change. Ended up cutting my bolt tonight and thought about just drilling through the wheelwell to sneak the bolt in that way. May try your approach first though
Did a water pump, belt tensioner bottom hos on a 2004
Remove the harmonic balancer and the "shock absorber/extender" from the old while its on the car
The assembly can be removed without cutting the bolt.
Same for the install
Remove the "extender/shock absorber", install the assembly with long bolt already in assembly
Once in place and tightened install the extender /shock absorber"
Install harmonic balancer
Fighting the lower hose into position was almost harder than the above
Mike
Same situation here,2001 Rav 4 gonna try the small length bolt tomorrow,what a mess,thanks for the video
Good luck, I'm about 10 months and 10,000 miles since the fix. Still running great.
How did it go?
Nearly a month and about 1,000 miles later, everything is working great - much quieter, can hardly hear the motor when idling. I'll update this if any problems develop.
Thanks for this video! specifically the idea to disassemble the tensioner. In my case, the pulley was fine, but the damper/spring was broken. I ordered a complete tensioner assembly, swapped over just the damper/spring (super easy) and it fixed my issue.
I also bought some e-torx sockets on amazon for $8, so if I ever need to swap out the pulley, I should be able to do it without removing the tensioner body itself.
How many miles are on your new tensioner now? What brand tensioner did you get?
Undo the engine mount and jack the engine up and you can remove the long bolt
My video presents an alternative for people like me who don't want to disrupt a lot of other things by jacking up the motor.
Is that even possible on these models that have the ABS in the way without disconnecting or damaging it?
Hello, thanks so much for this video, recently bought a second hand 2005 Rav4 this April 2023. Bought it with a Phinning noise, could it be the same issue? Might need to replace the tension pulley?
I did same like you and my rav4 runs greate.
Cool. Mine's still running great 8 months and 5,000 miles later.
do you have an amazon link on the 80mm bolt?
its m10x1.25x80mm with 1/3 length thread?
Your specs look right, but it's been a year and I honestly don't remember. I physically took the two pieces of the broken bolt with me to an autoparts store and bought the new one based on a comparison by sight.
Presumably the tensioner assembly is intended to be able to pivot freely around the 14mm bolt (ie to keep the belt correctly tensioned whilst the engine is running for the life of the belt) ? or is the assembly supposed to be fixed in position by tightening down on the 14mm bolt? I tried to fit a new belt but applying large amount of torque to the 19mm part as per instructions I'm finding the tensioner won't budge as if the assembly is seized in place.
When I did mine, I had to use a cheater bar to get the tensioner compress . Search youtube for this video: How works Toyota Rav-4 VVT-i drive belt tensioner. Years 2000 to 2010. "UA-cam didn't let me post a direct link".
@@DT-ns9hb Thanks for the reply. I tried using an extended 'US Pro Serpentine Belt Tool' and applied so much clockwise torque to the 19mm part of the tensioner that damage occurred to the tool. I will try again and attempt to loosen the other (14mm) bolts first. I'm trying to understand whether or not the casting is supposed to pivot freely ie maintain correct tension of the belt while the engine is running.
@@Beesa10 The whole assembly is pivoting at the top bolt and the bottom 14mm. When I had the new tensioner, I checked both places where the bolts goes through, I can rotated it with just fingers. Maybe you got a defective tensioner assembly?
@@DT-ns9hb Peter Finn's video shows him doing a last step of tightening the top 14mm bolt enough to bind/prevent any further movement of the tensioner arm after the belt is fitted which doesn't seem quite right(?), probably my tensioner has been locked in position the same way for a long time and might explain why the last belt broke after ~35k miles. Possibly the assembly has just gone bad, it's over 20 years old.
@@DT-ns9hb I managed to get the new belt on. My 14mm bolt at the top left (pivot point) was extremely tight/seized up and preventing the assembly from moving. It took a 6 point ring spanner with steel tube extension, WD40 (and so much torque I was afraid to break the bolt) to finally free it. Then just followed the procedure with a 19mm socket from above to torque the assembly clockwise and compress the tensioner spring.
any problem with shorter bolt? I have not cut mine yet, but I'm about too
Three months out, all is well, but I can't guarantee it will last. I've talked with a couple of good mechanics since I did it who confirmed that even the best resort to this solution in similar situations. Best of luck.
Over 1 year and 15,000 miles later all is still well.
what bolt size do you remember? metric 10?
Take the cut bolt with you to match it up with the new one - mine was a size 10 metric (diameter) and 80 mm long. I believe the original was 90 mm. over 1 year and 15,000 miles later all is well.
@roberthare2251 perfect. I think you're right on the 90mm original but the one i got in was m10 x 1.25 x 80mm