I just did this yesterday. One thing she doesn't mention is the 14mm nut on the underside of the engine mount. It holds the mount in place. and is virtually impossible to remove. I tried for 30 minutes or so with air gun and extensions from the bottom of the car, but it would NOT come off. I had to complete the job with the engine mount in place. You definitely have to jack up the engine to get the top tensioner bolt out.
Just don't forget that stud and nut that are on the bottom of the motor mount. Racked my brain for a bit on that one...couldn't understand why, after I had "all" the mounting hardware removed, the mount was still on there SOLID!
It was amazing to watch the mechanic😊which demonstrated an outstanding skill to replace the tensioner.very neat workmanship and very positive from to finish.thanks for the video.
Great job, I like it, thank you for your very useful explanation. I have a question, is it necessary to change the tensioner every time we change the belt?
The tensioner needs replacing when you either get tired of the bearing rattiling around or leaking, or it throws a belt one more time than you care to put up with putting it back on, drove a noise tensioner for 30k + miles until I said this just sounds too bad not to change it
Why go through all that? just replace the idler pulley and the hydraulic piston without removing the plate at the pivot point bolt... it's designed to be serviced without removing the backing plate. All that needs done is to release the belt tension, then remove the wheel and balancer cover and you have full access... they sell the socket at most every parts store to remove the special spline head bolt on the factory idler pulley if yours does not have a traditional hex-head bolt. The socket is about 10 bucks and the job can even be done on the ground without even removing the wheel if you're not in a shop environment.
I would like to know when and why is the tensioner replaced? With the serpentine belt? Is it necessary to change the tensioner every time I change the belt?
You really only need to replace it if the bearing seizes up, which is pretty obvious because you lose power steering and overheat when it happens. Not a bad idea to do it around 150,000 mi though because they like to fail a bit after 200,000 and preventative maintainence may be cheaper than getting towed 😂
@@gavinwise9935 i better get to it then. My belt and the tensioner has been stock since bought new. It is now at 212k and i feel it has lost some power overtime. I probably should get to it before the xb get me stranded on the road. Thanks bro!
Of all the videos on changing belts, this was the best. However all of them lacked the most critical detail on how to actually get the belt on. Here is how I did it on my 2008 RAV4. The belt fought me all the way despite moving the tensioner, Here is how I did it. To start I cut the old belt off so I could see the area better. 1. Took the new belt and used heat gun to even out the folds. Hung it up with a heavy steel block to weight it down. That way you are working with a belt ready to go on. 2. I jacked up the engine with a small hydraulic jack with block on wood on top. Pulled the passenger tire and access panel. Removed the front motor mount. Not difficult except there is a hidden nut on the bottom side of the mount that mounts on the engine. 3. Routed the belt so that the slack was on the tensioner pulley. 4. I was able to move the tensioner with a short 19mm socket with a long handle 3/8 drive ratchet and jammed the handle against the cylinder head so it stayed without anyone holding it. 5. Laying on the ground I used a 14mm socket on the crankshaft to move the engine. I watched the direct of movement of the belt. Using that movement I pushed the belt in such a way that the movement of the pulley helped to bring the belt onto the pulley. Not easy, what was Toyota thinking!!!!
Update: guess what? The motor mount at the block side (the shiny aluminum part) has a THIRD bolt underneath the block receiver. Rav4 2.2 2007. Bolt can only be accessed from underneath with a long extension and flex adapter to the nut underneath. Another guy on YT pointed this out...gave me fits for an hour. Question: is a hydraulic tensioner pre-set with tension? Can they be "un-tensed" a bit?"
Hi , is there a shorter alternative belt for this 2azfe engine , like my ac compressor not working , can I place a shorter drive belt to drive the car without ac
Is there an easy way to just drain out the coolant of the overflow on these? Rather than draining the entire system and have to worry about air bubbles.
@@smdhptr Yea I was wondering the same thing, I was like maybe this is a v6. As I'm about do do this job, and mine looks way different than what is in this video, and you do not have to take apart all those other mounts that they did in this video..... I have 2.5L.
I just did this job and I have never ever had the trouble I am having right now (still don't have it on) with replacing the serpentine belt. It will not go back on even though I have the tensioner all the way depressed....it seems like the belt is 1/2 inch to small and this is the belt that came off it.
+@kdeh21803 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Hey guys I just did this job and let me tell you that its IMPOSSIBLE to put the serpentine belt back on from the top. You have to go from underneath the vehicle to do this inorder to finish replacing the alternator or serpentine belt. ALL YOU NEED IS A 14MM COMBONATION WRENCH THAT RATCHETS!! PLACE THE WRENCH ON THE TENSIONER PULLEY'S CENTER BOLT FROM THE BOTTOM, KEEP TURNING THE TENSIONER PULLY UNTIL YOU CAN PLACE THE WRENCH ON TOP OF THE BOTTOM LEFT WHEEL. Step 1: Reinstall new alternator Step 2: Using a 14mm combination wrench (with ratcheting function), put closed end of wrench on the center bolt of tensioner pully (not the top one closest to coolant reservoir) Step 3: Going in a clockwise direction, turn tensioner pully to give you slack all the way. keep going until your behind the bottom left wheel and place the wrench on top of the wheel so you no longer have to hold it. (Trust me you will see what im talking about) Step 4: Fit the serpentine belt around all wheels except the bottom right wheel. Step 5: Put a socket wrench on the BOTTOM LEFT WHEEL NUT Step 6: Turn bottom left wheel and feed the belt onto the bottom right wheel until it snaps itself on. (like putting on a bike chain) THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART! Here's a video with a picture of a diagram displaying the proper alignment for the belt. He also states putting the belt back on by turning the wheels. ua-cam.com/video/1AakUBbs2uY/v-deo.html
Do not follow this lady's instructions, there is a 14mm nut on the bottom of the engine mount that is tuff to get got. She omitted that to make her video looks easy. Shame
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
No entendí nada del inglés pero solo con ver ya tengo la mejor de las explicaciones muchas gracias. Saludos amiga😅😅
I just did this yesterday. One thing she doesn't mention is the 14mm nut on the underside of the engine mount. It holds the mount in place. and is virtually impossible to remove. I tried for 30 minutes or so with air gun and extensions from the bottom of the car, but it would NOT come off. I had to complete the job with the engine mount in place. You definitely have to jack up the engine to get the top tensioner bolt out.
Just don't forget that stud and nut that are on the bottom of the motor mount. Racked my brain for a bit on that one...couldn't understand why, after I had "all" the mounting hardware removed, the mount was still on there SOLID!
There is also a 14mm nut on the bottom of the motor mount. Easiest to get to by using a long extension and coming at it from underneath.
It was amazing to watch the mechanic😊which demonstrated an outstanding skill to replace the tensioner.very neat workmanship and very positive from to finish.thanks for the video.
Great Video, very useful. It's not an easy work to replace that tensioner or alternator in this car.
Great job, I like it, thank you for your very useful explanation. I have a question, is it necessary to change the tensioner every time we change the belt?
No not at all
The tensioner needs replacing when you either get tired of the bearing rattiling around or leaking, or it throws a belt one more time than you care to put up with putting it back on, drove a noise tensioner for 30k + miles until I said this just sounds too bad not to change it
Very good and extremely helpful. Thanks for sharing.
Any significant differences when dealing with a 6cyl vehicle?
You don't mention what size motor this rav4 is. This is not same as mine which is a 2.5 litre motor. So things are different.
Thx very clear intructions tom
Hi. Is the part is changing according to the right hand driving seat?
Could yall please show this for the 2004 and 2005 models that have the ABS in the way?
great video ! best ive seen yet
Was this a 4 or 6 cylinder?
looks like a 4
4. 2.4
Why go through all that? just replace the idler pulley and the hydraulic piston without removing the plate at the pivot point bolt... it's designed to be serviced without removing the backing plate.
All that needs done is to release the belt tension, then remove the wheel and balancer cover and you have full access... they sell the socket at most every parts store to remove the special spline head bolt on the factory idler pulley if yours does not have a traditional hex-head bolt. The socket is about 10 bucks and the job can even be done on the ground without even removing the wheel if you're not in a shop environment.
I would like to know when and why is the tensioner replaced? With the serpentine belt? Is it necessary to change the tensioner every time I change the belt?
You really only need to replace it if the bearing seizes up, which is pretty obvious because you lose power steering and overheat when it happens. Not a bad idea to do it around 150,000 mi though because they like to fail a bit after 200,000 and preventative maintainence may be cheaper than getting towed 😂
@@gavinwise9935 i better get to it then. My belt and the tensioner has been stock since bought new. It is now at 212k and i feel it has lost some power overtime. I probably should get to it before the xb get me stranded on the road. Thanks bro!
Of all the videos on changing belts, this was the best. However all of them lacked the most critical detail on how to actually get the belt on. Here is how I did it on my 2008 RAV4. The belt fought me all the way despite moving the tensioner,
Here is how I did it.
To start I cut the old belt off so I could see the area better.
1. Took the new belt and used heat gun to even out the folds. Hung it up with a heavy steel block to weight it down. That way you are working with a belt ready to go on.
2. I jacked up the engine with a small hydraulic jack with block on wood on top. Pulled the passenger tire and access panel. Removed the front motor mount. Not difficult except there is a hidden nut on the bottom side of the mount that mounts on the engine.
3. Routed the belt so that the slack was on the tensioner pulley.
4. I was able to move the tensioner with a short 19mm socket with a long handle 3/8 drive ratchet and jammed the handle against the cylinder head so it stayed without anyone holding it.
5. Laying on the ground I used a 14mm socket on the crankshaft to move the engine. I watched the direct of movement of the belt. Using that movement I pushed the belt in such a way that the movement of the pulley helped to bring the belt onto the pulley.
Not easy, what was Toyota thinking!!!!
+@lloydballard7051 Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Top Video, thanks.
Always good to use threadlocker, especially on the engine mounts...
Update: guess what? The motor mount at the block side (the shiny aluminum part) has a THIRD bolt underneath the block receiver. Rav4 2.2 2007. Bolt can only be accessed from underneath with a long extension and flex adapter to the nut underneath. Another guy on YT pointed this out...gave me fits for an hour.
Question: is a hydraulic tensioner pre-set with tension? Can they be "un-tensed" a bit?"
Hi , is there a shorter alternative belt for this 2azfe engine , like my ac compressor not working , can I place a shorter drive belt to drive the car without ac
Excellent!
Is this the 2.5 4 cylinder???
Is there an easy way to just drain out the coolant of the overflow on these? Rather than draining the entire system and have to worry about air bubbles.
My tensioner was intermittently un-tensing, causing the belt to slip slightly and not provide full charging from alternator.
thank you
My belt tensioner doesn't seem to look anything like this on my 4cyl. Although it was definitely a 4 cylinder in this video
+Eric Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
They have a 2008 and older engine. 2009 and newer look different
@@DonVerchi700as Yeah, this is the old 2.4L engine
@@smdhptr Yea I was wondering the same thing, I was like maybe this is a v6. As I'm about do do this job, and mine looks way different than what is in this video, and you do not have to take apart all those other mounts that they did in this video..... I have 2.5L.
Note the 2011 pulley is definitely different then this one.
great job!
my belt seems to short. it's real tight and I can't get it on
I just did this job and I have never ever had the trouble I am having right now (still don't have it on) with replacing the serpentine belt. It will not go back on even though I have the tensioner all the way depressed....it seems like the belt is 1/2 inch to small and this is the belt that came off it.
+@kdeh21803 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Hey guys I just did this job and let me tell you that its IMPOSSIBLE to put the serpentine belt back on from the top. You have to go from underneath the vehicle to do this inorder to finish replacing the alternator or serpentine belt. ALL YOU NEED IS A 14MM COMBONATION WRENCH THAT RATCHETS!! PLACE THE WRENCH ON THE TENSIONER PULLEY'S CENTER BOLT FROM THE BOTTOM, KEEP TURNING THE TENSIONER PULLY UNTIL YOU CAN PLACE THE WRENCH ON TOP OF THE BOTTOM LEFT WHEEL.
Step 1: Reinstall new alternator
Step 2: Using a 14mm combination wrench (with ratcheting function), put closed end of wrench on the center bolt of tensioner pully (not the top one closest to coolant reservoir)
Step 3: Going in a clockwise direction, turn tensioner pully to give you slack all the way. keep going until your behind the bottom left wheel and place the wrench on top of the wheel so you no longer have to hold it. (Trust me you will see what im talking about)
Step 4: Fit the serpentine belt around all wheels except the bottom right wheel.
Step 5: Put a socket wrench on the BOTTOM LEFT WHEEL NUT
Step 6: Turn bottom left wheel and feed the belt onto the bottom right wheel until it snaps itself on. (like putting on a bike chain) THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART!
Here's a video with a picture of a diagram displaying the proper alignment for the belt. He also states putting the belt back on by turning the wheels. ua-cam.com/video/1AakUBbs2uY/v-deo.html
It's not impossible as a matter of fact I replaced my belt from the top only removing the coolant tank
Quite easy from the top. You are the Type of guy that makes easy shit Way difficult.
NEVER NEVER NEVER raise the engine by the oil pan!!!!! NEVER!!!! Turning a simple job into a major repair if and when the oil pan bends and cracks.
TRQ failed to mention that there is a bottom nut for the motor mount. That makes this video near useless.
She forgot that the enginemount is with a bolt from beneth to.
Nice job if when women can be reliable engineers
Your motormouth didn't have the bolt under, 🤷🏻♂️
2006-08. My 2099 is different.
Do not follow this lady's instructions, there is a 14mm nut on the bottom of the engine mount that is tuff to get got. She omitted that to make her video looks easy. Shame