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Scotty I have a 95 f150 4.9. I put a new fan belt and tensioner and right after I installed them I got a squeak on start up but if I turn the a.c. off and back on it goes away. Is my compressor the issue or is there something else I can check
My truck belt was sqealling one time and I put new belt. It kept sqealling. Put new tension pully. It kept sqealling. Checked all other pullys and they were fine. So I sprayed some black magic tire shine on the belt and it hasn't sqealled since and that's been about 7 or 8 years ago! If you have a belt that won't stop sqealling and nothing seems to be broke or worn out try it out! It works! I've told other people to do it and it worked for them too!
I usually just cut the belt off. The noise usually goes away after that. I mean I lose AC,Power Steering, charging and the ability to keep the engine cool. But hey the noise at least went away so it was worth it.
@@erike7297 No I do, but the car will usually die after the battery gets drained so I usually make it about three miles or so before the inevitable happens.......yes I'm being sarcastic and yes my first comment wasn't meant to be taken seriously. If I had a belt noise I'd take the time to remove the belt and replace whatever is worn. I learned that lesson the hard way with my stupid Bonneville SSEi. GM thought it was smart to use plastic idler pulleys. One of them flew apart on me and caused the belt to come off lol. The cause was the bearing seized to the mounting bolt. Thankfully nothing on the mounting plate was damaged. But I did get stuck lol.
If there's something SOME BAD mechanics have taught me is that I should learn how to fix 95% of the problems on my car if I do not want to get scammed. thanks for the video!
I totally noticed my old drive belt looked fine but had really deep groves and the new belt was pretty shallow . Makes total sense now, thanks and no more squeaks so far!
Thanks a lot scotty! I stopped my belt squeak using your technique. Took my accessory (fan) belt off, ps belt, and it still made noise. So I took the balance shaft belts out, and finally the timing belt. I cranked it over, and whaaalaa! My 944 stopped squeeling! Turns out I needed a new engine.
TIP: Always keep a basic emergency tool kit in the trunk of your vehicle and when you change your belts, keep the old ones in your trunk so that if a belt does break while on a trip, you have something to swap and prevent you from being stranded.
Regarding not having a diagram under the hood anymore. It's pretty simple: If the pulley is grooved it uses the inside of the belt with the grooves. If the pulley is smooth, it uses the outside of the belt. That should get you set up.
There is no substitute for years of experience. Keep giving advice from your experience that you don't read many other places. I have had belts that were squealing and looked fine - but it was exactly what you described in this video. The grooves wear deeply without cracking and a new belt fixes the problem. A little water test isolates the belt from the pulleys.
I love the opening of the video. "It's originally called a fan belt so I'm calling it a fan belt" lol Love the energy of this guy. Wish I knew someone like him 👍
this by far has been the most informational video. i see how much your really trying to keep alive the idea of working on your own vehicle.. and how cars make so much common sense to u. almost like u or I have been part of the force to keep us from fully allowing the gov to keep us dumb.
Nice class Scotty. I feel the hairs on the back of my neck standing up. I need 2 belts and they are not noisy. Just starting to age. I found all of the maintenance receipts and actually called to previous owner to thank her for taking such good car of my car.
I regularly use silicone spray on my serpentine belts to keep them from drying out....does a nice job of conditioning......usually at every oil change. DON"T use V belt spray on a serpentine belt or it'll really squeal!! Never had one problem using the silicone spray.....don't OVER do it though.....also great for lubing your window weatherstrips and keeping those power windows working nicely!
Very good tips. I had several cars come in under warranty with serpentine belt noise. Researched the database & sure enough it's been to other dealers for same issue. Found belt was on backwards, (not inside & out).. Removed & replaced with letters legible from the front of the engine instead of the other way around. Fixed it every time.
You are on point, I used that belt conditioner and the squeaking sound became worst I end up just changing my serpentine belt and the annoying noise is gone 👍🏼
I replace the fan belts at the same time I replace the timing belt (interference engine) AND I also replace the tension and idler pulleys. I. DON'T. LIKE. WALKING. UNEXPECTEDLY.
Considering you have to take them off on practically everything to do a timing belt it's just good practice anyway unless they are very new cause they failed first.
i've done this long as you have. your honest,cut thru the bull,dont advertise for someone and actually give helpful and useful info;anybody that dislikes you is probably not haired over yt
Continental make the best belts. They are coated and don’t squeal over time. Never buy a cheap belt. Change your belts or check them often. Major damage can be done if belt lets go. Great video Scott!
Come to think of it Scotty Kilmer... as I was watching this video and I have been watching all your videos recently, I saw myself as a young kid watching your videos as if I was becoming a mechanic. You should consider having your videos used as training videos for other young mechanics so that way they can learn and not fall asleep like the older videos which are more boring LOL but yours are not boring and I love watching your videos because you are very intuitive straight to the point and you make it fun
Well done and not one area missed! Tensioners, a whole other area. The bearings usually die. Yes, a spray lube will tell you if it is idler or tensioner. If it doesn't, take a picture of it and hand turn everything else.... You will hear and feel the bad guy. Replace the whole tensioner assembly at around 100K miles, as the bearings may be good, but the tension spring is fatigued. On police and other utility vehicles, engine hours and experience. Speaking of which, when I worked in a municipal equipment maintenance shop, we would replace complete brake hardware on half of their every 3-5K miles. Add in a brake fluid flush (hot brakes= fluid breakdown). Stepping off the Soapbox from Oklahoma, Mike and Vee
I noticed the aftermarket belts often last longer than the manufacturers. I maintain family's 4 cars for the last 30 years and that seems to be the case for every car or van.
Scotty u got a point when I bought my 2012 Subaru Impreza in 2015 I changed the belt 6 months afterwards., as well as a new battery and a K+n air filter it runs great.
I had a spare fan belt kicking around in my emergency kit for YEARS and I never used it for a emergency. I went to replace the belt under routine maintenance and it was the wrong one!
Likely where your vehicle had a few options such as with A/C or without A/C.....changes the length of the belt. Don't forget they are manufactured with differing numbers of grooves! And boy the wrong belt will be of NO help to you! Once you get the correct belt, write the part number in your owner/shop manual for future use....the number can be crossreferenced to other brands too, so brand part number isn't a problem.
@@wsfd4321 sorry, this was in 1974 on a1972 521 Datsun pickup. One v-belt ran alternator, water pump and fan. Other cars came and went but I hung into my 521 for 15 years! The counter help screwed up. I screwed up not trying it on. I've never let a belt go that long that it failed. I've never carried another spare either.
I had a new belt that was making noise. A mechanic suggested using 303 Aerospace Protectant as the belt is made of EPDM rubber. I sprayed some on the belt ribs and, voila, the chirping went away and hasn’t returned. I’ve read other articles saying that soaking the belt in 303 prior to installation will also greatly increase the life of the belt.
Scotty, I would like to add one thing. If you drive a Pontiac/Commodore with the V-6, & that serpentine belt shreds itself, it can actually stop the engine from running. The crank sensor is behind the crank pulley, & the crank pulley has square slots at regular intervals. These slots turn the sensor on & off for each cylinder. If that belt shreds, & it gets behind the crank pulley, you are not going anywhere!! This is because the belt will bridge the gaps in the pulley, & the sensor can no longer read the pulley. I have seen this happen.
Very good warning about Belt Dressing/Conditioner. That was for very old V belts (pre 80s cars) and only found today on shop equipment like table saws or tractors. The sticky stuff will grab grit, cause cracks and keep the groves from aligning the belt. I do keep a can for when I need extra hand grip on tools or a jar lid. Really makes your hands sticky.
To be honest, Scotty's channel is the best UA-cam channel i've seen in my life. Even though i don't have a car by watching his videos i will know what to do when i get one. UA-cam is just full of stupidity. I wish he was way much more famous than what he is.
All good! Thnx Scotty! We don't hear much about serpentine belts being too small but that's what I incurred buying one from one of the auto parts store. They gave me one too small although I was able to get it on it ended up destroying my new $300 alternator and luckily nothing else so far, knock on wood. You take your chances getting parts from auto stores. Always double check and cross reference because they do make mistakes a lot.
Actually, for any half-way mechanically inclined person, it cost a buck or 2 to pop a new bearing in todays idler pulleys(not so nuch the plastic ones). The bearing are VERY often common sizes and readily available online!
Scotty, I found that on my Toyota, all aftermarket belts would squeal, especially when cold or wet. After trying several different aftermarket brands, I paid a bit more for OEM from the dealer and the problem was instantly solved. The OEM belts sit properly in the pulleys (the aftermarket didn't) and last considerably longer than the aftermarket.
Scotty thanks for the tip about the spray belt dressing. Tried the stuff in desperation and it's just like you said. You confirmed I'm headed in the right direction.
I'd rather use silicone spray than WD40. If it's not the bearings and you spray them with WD40 it'll strip the grease right off of them and they'll wear out really fast.
Armor All sprayed on both sides of the belt when off the car seems to help with belt squeel. Also I repack the pulley bearings with synthetic aviation grease by taking the pulleys off, taking the plastic cover off the bearings and repacking. I use a cheap automotive stethoscope to see when the bearings are starting to dry out a bit. Yes I used to replace everything with new, but by the time you work out part numbers and source the parts its easier to recondition if these parts are not that bad to begin with. Also a bit of WD40 on the belt tensioner spring every now and then helps.
Dame I wish this dude was my neighbor spending a hour with the guy would fill you with so much knowledge of cars I’d never have to go to a shop again great video Scotty
Hey Scotty. I usually change my serpentine belt every five years. The old belt still has some life in it and I save the old one in my trunk just in case the new one breaks. Better to use the old one to get me off the highway or off that old country road when I am out for a Sunday drive. I have also given my old one to someone whose belt broke on the highway and mine fit their car. Just an idea.
You got the sound what I was looking for. Been freaking underneath the truck for that somewhat loose sounding bolt only to know it's coming from the tensioner that you shook making all that rattling. Thanks
It was nice to see that Civic, I had an '02. I had 3 '91 Accords too and those have pretty much the same power steering pump set ups as the '02 Civics do. The 1st Accord I had took me a second to figure out how to adjust the belt. Before that I mostly had G body cars and those are very simple. Well actually, the Hondas are easier to adjust.
Also, taking a picture of the pulley system, seems so logical and easy, yet I never would have thought of it unless I had replaced lots and lots of belts.
Great advice Scotty!👍👍 I was just _waiting_ for the ole bar of soap trick!🤣😂. Also, agreed... those “conditioner” sprays do NOT work at all... also called “Belt Dressing”.
Hello from Nova Scotia. Old trick I've always done Scotty to get rid of a squealing belt is to just pour a bit of sand between the belt and different pulleys while it runs. Only takes a minute and it lightly sands the surfaces to allow for better traction. Always seemed to work well.
@@jayislander whoa that sounds like what I’m hearing. I hear a chirping/squeaking noise when accelerating normally and maintaining the speed. But when I accelerate fast, it’s not as noticeable. But when I put it in neutral or reverse and step on the gas pedal, I don’t hear anything. Got the tensioner, pulley, serpentine belt, water pump, alternator, thermostat, PS pump and hose, and radiator replaced. May be an aftermarket thing…
Sound video. One thing that I do that many do not... if you're going to change the drive belt, I go ahead and change the tensioner at the same time. They aren't that expensive, you're already in there and you've just eliminated the worry that the old one may crap out...taking an otherwise good belt down with it.
Hi Scotty👍🏻just bought a 28 year old Toyota Starlet my first ever Toyota Drove 3 hours to get it 😵💫😵💫just hope it’s more reliable than all the old VW I’ve owned 🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻Because of you Scotty
I had a squeaky belt on my truck, and sprayed the "belt conditioner" product on it. It went from an annoying squeal in cold temperatures to a SCREAMING BANSHEE, until the product wore off shortly after. Waste of money. A new belt fixed it in my case.
Love your videos. Many years ago I had a belt start to squeak so I went and purchased the stop squeak spray for belts and after I cranked the engine the squeak got worse so I sprayed a little more on it and by the time I got done the squeak was so bad I couldn't stand it. I ended up having to take off all the pulleys the belt rode on to clean off the residue because it got so sticky and I also replaced the belt with a new one which of course fixed the problem. I have never used that stuff since and never will. Somebody got rich off of that junk but I don't really know what the purpose of it really is other than to make your life more miserable.
Working on various machines with drive belts for 20+ years, I must say, I used my fair share of 'belt dressing' and 'bar soap' , many times with the belt running. Somehow I still have all my fingers. It was definitely a stop-gap.
Scotty, watch and love your valuable information and great videos. Sometimes I slightly disagree with your diagnosis and this one I need to speak up. I have worked in automotive OE Detroit for 30years and for the two largest tensioner and belt manufacturers in the world up to engineering manager. Auto companies often do not consider the needs of the belt system accessory positions and belt routing geometry for ideal performance and life of all accessories, belt and tensioner when designing these and are usually constrained with accessory positions and flexibility to move these, even a few millimeters at times. There are some vehicles that are prone to belt noise much more than others as a result. WD40 May damage your tensioner permanently when it may just need a series of cycling to loosen it up as there are mechanical damping surfaces that need this (this where the WD40 can hurt mechanical damping the tensioner and drive system needs). Also the belt is a key component that is made of various rubber, textile and cord construction so don’t throw away the original belt as it may be the best belt you can buy for the system after the OE tried many vendors and many belt constructions. Noise can be caused by pulley issues and misaligned pulleys. Plastic pulleys can wear and if a steel replacement is available go for that as long as it is made well, ideally stamped then formed or machined (grooved and flat pulleys respectively). Pulley alignment can be diagnosed with a laser gage like one made by Gates (there are good UA-cam videos on this)2. When trying new belts use different vendors and do not use cheap belts, go with the best brands like Gates, Conti, Dayco. If all of a sudden a new belt is flapping and the tensioner is moving and too active the belt likely has a low modulus and the one replaced is high modulus. This is controlled by the belt cord, most drive/fan belts are polyester cord and some use aramid (Kevlar) cord. Aramid is high modulus and is used when belt tension and tensioner damping cannot control the belt system and has too much vibration and belt deflections. Recognize this as it may be important because the service group of OE automotive manufacturers are out to make money and aramid cord belts are much more expensive so they don’t realize sometimes the replacement belt by then same supplier is polyester cord and screws up severely the performance of the belt drive system and wears the tensioner quickly. Yes, true, some OE’s are that ignorant they won’t service with the exacting part used in production. This once was a big problem with one manufacturer who used separate production/engineering part numbers versus separate service part numbers. This is why I say keep your original belt, you may find it is the best belt available after others are worn in. A few cracks in the belt are not to worry about as it is the cord that gives it strength and as long as there is no chuck out of the ribbed side and overall it is not delaminating and not contaminated by oil it should be OK. Needless to say there is much more that can be added to look for when there are belt drive problems such as a bad accessory (spin all the pulleys when the belt is off), but adding this to Scotty’s advice will help keep your belt drive system running reliably and quietly.
Also, spend for a quality belt. Every belt I got from a chain auto store squealed within a week. Finally spent double the price at NAPA and the belt was quiet all the time.
Scotty, longtime fan. Glad to see you blew up. 02 Corolla 358k...it squeaks but not when I push in the clutch or engine is low idle...belt? Pulley? Tensioner? Not super worried bc it still drives fine..but the squeaking is getting to me...I only drive it maybe 3-4 days/week as it's just my grocery getter. TIA
Belt on my truck only squeals when it gets wet. Takes days, even up to a week to dry out and stop, but that belt conditioner spray seems to speeds up the process. Been this way for years, and no other problems.
Serpentine poly-V belt wear gauges are simple and work well by measuring the width of the grooves. While somewhat hard to find, they should be available at parts stores like NAPA or from some OEMs like Gates or Dayco.
To add to this. My instructor for my automotive program showed the class last year you can use ajax or comet powder to help clean the groves of the pulleys and such. Worked for me (belt is just over a year old, I have a large 320 amp alternator with a fairly small pulley on it causing it to slip when shifting at high rpm)
If you can't get a decent shot of the belt's position on the pulleys, just draw a diagram on paper. It doesn't have to be a work of art, just as long as you can draw small circles with a pen to represent the pulleys and their relative positions.
I have also had a squeaky belt but it was because the pulley grooves were worn out and I had to replace all the pulleys. Found it by replacing the belt and a month later it started squeaking again replaced the belt again and it went away only to come back. Replaced the pulleys and it fixed it.
Very educative video! Thanks! I changed drive belt a week ago, and driving experience was quite nice without any squeaking. However, after I found the adjustment bolt was loose, and tightened up the blot, the squeaking nose comes up every time I start the engine but then the noise disappears after a short while. What could triggers this issue?
@@davebassi7340 hey man, look at your serpentine belt on the upside. If the verbiage is set so you can read it (not upside down) reroute the belt so you can read it. I literally just had this problem straight from a dealer repair. Flipped the belt and it’s dead quiet.
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Hey Scotty, I saw you wrote you used common-sense in this video. And I was wondering if I can
pickup some that stuff off of amazon for a fair price?
Scotty I have a 95 f150 4.9. I put a new fan belt and tensioner and right after I installed them I got a squeak on start up but if I turn the a.c. off and back on it goes away. Is my compressor the issue or is there something else I can check
Scotty Kilmer hey Scotty what you think about a 2007 Toyota Sequoia as a daily driver
My belt squeals Every time I start mycar now I know why
My truck belt was sqealling one time and I put new belt. It kept sqealling. Put new tension pully. It kept sqealling. Checked all other pullys and they were fine. So I sprayed some black magic tire shine on the belt and it hasn't sqealled since and that's been about 7 or 8 years ago! If you have a belt that won't stop sqealling and nothing seems to be broke or worn out try it out! It works! I've told other people to do it and it worked for them too!
Best Mechanic online by FAR. We all wish we had an honest mechanic like this guy. Respect!!!
I usually just cut the belt off. The noise usually goes away after that. I mean I lose AC,Power Steering, charging and the ability to keep the engine cool. But hey the noise at least went away so it was worth it.
Well here's the thing . He only cuts the belt off to test it for noise. Obviously he doesn't drive the car like that.
@@erike7297 No I do, but the car will usually die after the battery gets drained so I usually make it about three miles or so before the inevitable happens.......yes I'm being sarcastic and yes my first comment wasn't meant to be taken seriously. If I had a belt noise I'd take the time to remove the belt and replace whatever is worn. I learned that lesson the hard way with my stupid Bonneville SSEi. GM thought it was smart to use plastic idler pulleys. One of them flew apart on me and caused the belt to come off lol. The cause was the bearing seized to the mounting bolt. Thankfully nothing on the mounting plate was damaged. But I did get stuck lol.
Meh that requires having a knife. Easier to just pee on it. If you keep drinking beer you won't run out of pee.
I will try this on my 96 nissan pick up. Riding a bicycle might help with the noise as well.
Turn the radio up then you won't hear it
Teaching people how to easily fix their cars, saving money and hassles! This guy's a national treasure! We love you Scotty :D
If there's something SOME BAD mechanics have taught me is that I should learn how to fix 95% of the problems on my car if I do not want to get scammed. thanks for the video!
100% correct. My first car mechanics always crooked me.bought my second car now an I am fixing all the small things myself now
U said it best✌
I totally noticed my old drive belt looked fine but had really deep groves and the new belt was pretty shallow . Makes total sense now, thanks and no more squeaks so far!
Thanks a lot scotty!
I stopped my belt squeak using your technique.
Took my accessory (fan) belt off, ps belt, and it still made noise. So I took the balance shaft belts out, and finally the timing belt.
I cranked it over, and whaaalaa! My 944 stopped squeeling! Turns out I needed a new engine.
TIP: Always keep a basic emergency tool kit in the trunk of your vehicle and when you change your belts, keep the old ones in your trunk so that if a belt does break while on a trip, you have something to swap and prevent you from being stranded.
if the belt breaks the engine is gone lol.
@@christianhudspeth3338 You're thinking of the cam belt. Losing the drive belt won't destroy the engine.
And what if you don't know to put the belt on your still snookered either way
@@christianhudspeth3338 you don't have a clue what your taking about it's not a timing belt kit
I rode mine till it snapped ... I can't take your advice and I'm stuck but thanks for the advice I seen it coming but next time I'ma remember this
Regarding not having a diagram under the hood anymore. It's pretty simple: If the pulley is grooved it uses the inside of the belt with the grooves. If the pulley is smooth, it uses the outside of the belt. That should get you set up.
This was the most entertaining video of replacing a fan belt I’ve ever seen
There is no substitute for years of experience. Keep giving advice from your experience that you don't read many other places. I have had belts that were squealing and looked fine - but it was exactly what you described in this video. The grooves wear deeply without cracking and a new belt fixes the problem. A little water test isolates the belt from the pulleys.
I love the opening of the video. "It's originally called a fan belt so I'm calling it a fan belt" lol Love the energy of this guy. Wish I knew someone like him 👍
We all do!
this by far has been the most informational video. i see how much your really trying to keep alive the idea of working on your own vehicle.. and how cars make so much common sense to u. almost like u or I have been part of the force to keep us from fully allowing the gov to keep us dumb.
Nice class Scotty. I feel the hairs on the back of my neck standing up. I need 2 belts and they are not noisy. Just starting to age. I found all of the maintenance receipts and actually called to previous owner to thank her for taking such good car of my car.
I love this dude, even if im completely outta a car, he can still crack me up with his on screen GIFS
Squeaky noise? I just turn the music volume up
Moront
Ok, mom and sister.
Lmaooooo!!!!
Taylor Haddock lol
I can relate lol
I regularly use silicone spray on my serpentine belts to keep them from drying out....does a nice job of conditioning......usually at every oil change. DON"T use V belt spray on a serpentine belt or it'll really squeal!! Never had one problem using the silicone spray.....don't OVER do it though.....also great for lubing your window weatherstrips and keeping those power windows working nicely!
Cool
Very good tips. I had several cars come in under warranty with serpentine belt noise. Researched the database & sure enough it's been to other dealers for same issue. Found belt was on backwards, (not inside & out).. Removed & replaced with letters legible from the front of the engine instead of the other way around. Fixed it every time.
You are on point, I used that belt conditioner and the squeaking sound became worst I end up just changing my serpentine belt and the annoying noise is gone 👍🏼
I replace the fan belts at the same time I replace the timing belt (interference engine) AND I also replace the tension and idler pulleys. I. DON'T. LIKE. WALKING. UNEXPECTEDLY.
Sean Watts haha...I believe in your philosophy. I did the same on my car. Peace of mind , really it is
Considering you have to take them off on practically everything to do a timing belt it's just good practice anyway unless they are very new cause they failed first.
I like the way you think. I am still doing more damage than fixing but getting better.
just love how explicit you are in giving your information Scotty
i've done this long as you have. your honest,cut thru the bull,dont advertise for someone and actually give helpful and useful info;anybody that dislikes you is probably not haired over yt
I've never seen a Toyota in the wild that didn't have leaky power steering pump.
Memories. Nice video Scotty.
Scotty's use of gifs/images are top notch! 😂
I know, right?! Especially the hot chick at 3:43!!!
I used to get the belt when I got in trouble. But it wasn't squeeky👍👍
Scotty for President 2020.
No, UA-cam will remove his channel after a few BS strikes. We need his channel, lol.
😂
Wouldn't bet on it.
that alexandria cortez chick is funny, she has no clue what she's talking about
The Dem base will be motivated, like they were for Obama. Clinton, not even close!
Continental make the best belts. They are coated and don’t squeal over time. Never buy a cheap belt. Change your belts or check them often. Major damage can be done if belt lets go. Great video Scott!
Squeaks are the most annoying things on Earth.
And rattles !
My ex-wife was a squeaker, eventually the noise went away. To this day I can be reminded when I hear a ring in my ears or something of that nature:)
+bobber divorce is expensive because it's worth it!! lol
Dog barking from neighbor out of no where
😂
303 is a great product and helps keep the belt in shape as far as cracking . I use it for everything inside and outside my vehicles 👍
I just bought it and wanted his opinion
Rev up your squeaky belts!
XD
Just make sure you don't rev it up early in the morning or else you will wake up the whole neighborhood!🐭📣🐀🏘🏘😂🤣
Junior Lexus what if I need the whole neighbourhood to help me with my diagnosis? :P
@@absboodoo oh no....you don't want that, they all might cut the belt!🤣😅✍🏽🇺🇸🌴☀️🌴
😂
Come to think of it Scotty Kilmer... as I was watching this video and I have been watching all your videos recently, I saw myself as a young kid watching your videos as if I was becoming a mechanic. You should consider having your videos used as training videos for other young mechanics so that way they can learn and not fall asleep like the older videos which are more boring LOL but yours are not boring and I love watching your videos because you are very intuitive straight to the point and you make it fun
Well done and not one area missed! Tensioners, a whole other area. The bearings usually die. Yes, a spray lube will tell you if it is idler or tensioner. If it doesn't, take a picture of it and hand turn everything else.... You will hear and feel the bad guy. Replace the whole tensioner assembly at around 100K miles, as the bearings may be good, but the tension spring is fatigued. On police and other utility vehicles, engine hours and experience.
Speaking of which, when I worked in a municipal equipment maintenance shop, we would replace complete brake hardware on half of their every 3-5K miles. Add in a brake fluid flush (hot brakes= fluid breakdown).
Stepping off the Soapbox from Oklahoma,
Mike and Vee
a genuis of a mechanic. nothing like old time mechanics like mr kilmer.
5:01. You understand more than just cars my friend.
That totally went over my head until I scrolled down and saw your comment
Pssh just @ me next time Scotty why dont ya!
I noticed the aftermarket belts often last longer than the manufacturers. I maintain family's 4 cars for the last 30 years and that seems to be the case for every car or van.
Scotty u got a point when I bought my 2012 Subaru Impreza in 2015 I changed the belt 6 months afterwards., as well as a new battery and a K+n air filter it runs great.
I had a spare fan belt kicking around in my emergency kit for YEARS and I never used it for a emergency. I went to replace the belt under routine maintenance and it was the wrong one!
😂😂😂
@@karl28560 I remember my reaction....... WTF!
Bruh rubber ages. You install the new belt and if need be retain the old one for emergencies.
Likely where your vehicle had a few options such as with A/C or without A/C.....changes the length of the belt. Don't forget they are manufactured with differing numbers of grooves! And boy the wrong belt will be of NO help to you! Once you get the correct belt, write the part number in your owner/shop manual for future use....the number can be crossreferenced to other brands too, so brand part number isn't a problem.
@@wsfd4321 sorry, this was in 1974 on a1972 521 Datsun pickup. One v-belt ran alternator, water pump and fan. Other cars came and went but I hung into my 521 for 15 years! The counter help screwed up. I screwed up not trying it on. I've never let a belt go that long that it failed. I've never carried another spare either.
I had a new belt that was making noise. A mechanic suggested using 303 Aerospace Protectant as the belt is made of EPDM rubber. I sprayed some on the belt ribs and, voila, the chirping went away and hasn’t returned. I’ve read other articles saying that soaking the belt in 303 prior to installation will also greatly increase the life of the belt.
You are correct!
Scotty, I would like to add one thing. If you drive a Pontiac/Commodore with the V-6, & that serpentine belt shreds itself, it can actually stop the engine from running. The crank sensor is behind the crank pulley, & the crank pulley has square slots at regular intervals. These slots turn the sensor on & off for each cylinder. If that belt shreds, & it gets behind the crank pulley, you are not going anywhere!! This is because the belt will bridge the gaps in the pulley, & the sensor can no longer read the pulley. I have seen this happen.
Very good warning about Belt Dressing/Conditioner. That was for very old V belts (pre 80s cars) and only found today on shop equipment like table saws or tractors. The sticky stuff will grab grit, cause cracks and keep the groves from aligning the belt.
I do keep a can for when I need extra hand grip on tools or a jar lid. Really makes your hands sticky.
To be honest, Scotty's channel is the best UA-cam channel i've seen in my life. Even though i don't have a car by watching his videos i will know what to do when i get one. UA-cam is just full of stupidity. I wish he was way much more famous than what he is.
All good! Thnx Scotty!
We don't hear much about serpentine belts being too small but that's what I incurred buying one from one of the auto parts store. They gave me one too small although I was able to get it on it ended up destroying my new $300 alternator and luckily nothing else so far, knock on wood.
You take your chances getting parts from auto stores. Always double check and cross reference because they do make mistakes a lot.
The wd40 on any pulley bearings is a gd one. Probably best simple advice I have ever heard.
Wd40 washes out the grease and then causes the pulley to seize up when it dries. Sorry, but I know for a fact
YOU ALSO PUT THE W40 GIMMICK IN THE LOCK. THE SCOTTY KILLER AND THE ME RECOMMENDING.
Ryan Adam you are wright.
Except that WD40 is NOT a real lubricant. Used for water displacement HENCE THE WD.
If the bearing is sealed, the wd 40 won't wash out any grease, if the bearing is not sealed it will be stuffed and you replace it.
Actually, for any half-way mechanically inclined person, it cost a buck or 2 to pop a new bearing in todays idler pulleys(not so nuch the plastic ones). The bearing are VERY often common sizes and readily available online!
Scotty, I found that on my Toyota, all aftermarket belts would squeal, especially when cold or wet. After trying several different aftermarket brands, I paid a bit more for OEM from the dealer and the problem was instantly solved. The OEM belts sit properly in the pulleys (the aftermarket didn't) and last considerably longer than the aftermarket.
Scotty thanks for the tip about the spray belt dressing. Tried the stuff in desperation and it's just like you said. You confirmed I'm headed in the right direction.
I'd rather use silicone spray than WD40. If it's not the bearings and you spray them with WD40 it'll strip the grease right off of them and they'll wear out really fast.
Armor All sprayed on both sides of the belt when off the car seems to help with belt squeel. Also I repack the pulley bearings with synthetic aviation grease by taking the pulleys off, taking the plastic cover off the bearings and repacking. I use a cheap automotive stethoscope to see when the bearings are starting to dry out a bit. Yes I used to replace everything with new, but by the time you work out part numbers and source the parts its easier to recondition if these parts are not that bad to begin with. Also a bit of WD40 on the belt tensioner spring every now and then helps.
A lot of the squeaks can be found in the pully's, either the tensioner, or one of the pully's bearings is about to go up.
Dame I wish this dude was my neighbor spending a hour with the guy would fill you with so much knowledge of cars I’d never have to go to a shop again great video Scotty
Hey Scotty. I usually change my serpentine belt every five years. The old belt still has some life in it and I save the old one in my trunk just in case the new one breaks. Better to use the old one to get me off the highway or off that old country road when I am out for a Sunday drive. I have also given my old one to someone whose belt broke on the highway and mine fit their car. Just an idea.
You got the sound what I was looking for. Been freaking underneath the truck for that somewhat loose sounding bolt only to know it's coming from the tensioner that you shook making all that rattling. Thanks
I love how hard this man is sweating. It inspires me This is the reason I'm subscribed.
It perspires you?
What a mad man. He provides quality content at 1080p
It was nice to see that Civic, I had an '02. I had 3 '91 Accords too and those have pretty much the same power steering pump set ups as the '02 Civics do. The 1st Accord I had took me a second to figure out how to adjust the belt. Before that I mostly had G body cars and those are very simple. Well actually, the Hondas are easier to adjust.
Also, taking a picture of the pulley system, seems so logical and easy, yet I never would have thought of it unless I had replaced lots and lots of belts.
Great advice Scotty!👍👍 I was just _waiting_ for the ole bar of soap trick!🤣😂. Also, agreed... those “conditioner” sprays do NOT work at all... also called “Belt Dressing”.
Thank you, I just fixed my noisy fan belt in my Jimny ur help was much appreciated 😊 I'm all proud of myself all set for the MOT now 😂😂
Hello from Nova Scotia. Old trick I've always done Scotty to get rid of a squealing belt is to just pour a bit of sand between the belt and different pulleys while it runs. Only takes a minute and it lightly sands the surfaces to allow for better traction. Always seemed to work well.
Fr?
@@jayislander guaranteed. I live by the ocean and sand is easy to find. And I've done it for people many times. Works well
@@justinbudden7230 I was told to buy a new tensioner . It has a new belt still making a noise when accelerating
@@jayislander whoa that sounds like what I’m hearing. I hear a chirping/squeaking noise when accelerating normally and maintaining the speed. But when I accelerate fast, it’s not as noticeable. But when I put it in neutral or reverse and step on the gas pedal, I don’t hear anything. Got the tensioner, pulley, serpentine belt, water pump, alternator, thermostat, PS pump and hose, and radiator replaced. May be an aftermarket thing…
@@jayislander btw did the new tensioner take care of the noise?
Sound video. One thing that I do that many do not... if you're going to change the drive belt, I go ahead and change the tensioner at the same time. They aren't that expensive, you're already in there and you've just eliminated the worry that the old one may crap out...taking an otherwise good belt down with it.
Thank you Scotty for this good information.
Hi Scotty👍🏻just bought a 28 year old Toyota Starlet my first ever Toyota Drove 3 hours to get it 😵💫😵💫just hope it’s more reliable than all the old VW I’ve owned 🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻Because of you Scotty
I had a squeaky belt on my truck, and sprayed the "belt conditioner" product on it. It went from an annoying squeal in cold temperatures to a SCREAMING BANSHEE, until the product wore off shortly after. Waste of money. A new belt fixed it in my case.
@Johnny AppleStead I found out that the Walmart belt dressing product work better.
Same here my dude on my 2000 ford ranger hahaha funny ain’t it.
I told my husband to take care of the equaling and he bought that dang conditioner and I was furious! Lol it was an AWFUL NOISE. 😭😂😭
An absolute gem this video is.
I like scotty he is so likeable. Keep up the fantastic videos dude
Thanks Scotty, I always learn something new when I watch one of your great videos!
I've learned not to get Gates belts. Gotta go with Continental Elite, they used to be Good Year Gatorbacks.
Same experience here. Gates was the hell, bought Conti, and voila a quiet solution.
Good honest advice. Nothing like getting stuff done right.
Love your videos. Many years ago I had a belt start to squeak so I went and purchased the stop squeak spray for belts and after I cranked the engine the squeak got worse so I sprayed a little more on it and by the time I got done the squeak was so bad I couldn't stand it. I ended up having to take off all the pulleys the belt rode on to clean off the residue because it got so sticky and I also replaced the belt with a new one which of course fixed the problem. I have never used that stuff since and never will. Somebody got rich off of that junk but I don't really know what the purpose of it really is other than to make your life more miserable.
Working on various machines with drive belts for 20+ years, I must say, I used my fair share of 'belt dressing' and 'bar soap' , many times with the belt running. Somehow I still have all my fingers.
It was definitely a stop-gap.
The Demi Lovato burn is why he’s sweating so much 😂 great video as always Scotty 👍🏾
Scotty coming in clutch with new info on the daily! 🏎🏎🏎🏎
Scotty, watch and love your valuable information and great videos. Sometimes I slightly disagree with your diagnosis and this one I need to speak up. I have worked in automotive OE Detroit for 30years and for the two largest tensioner and belt manufacturers in the world up to engineering manager. Auto companies often do not consider the needs of the belt system accessory positions and belt routing geometry for ideal performance and life of all accessories, belt and tensioner when designing these and are usually constrained with accessory positions and flexibility to move these, even a few millimeters at times. There are some vehicles that are prone to belt noise much more than others as a result. WD40 May damage your tensioner permanently when it may just need a series of cycling to loosen it up as there are mechanical damping surfaces that need this (this where the WD40 can hurt mechanical damping the tensioner and drive system needs).
Also the belt is a key component that is made of various rubber, textile and cord construction so don’t throw away the original belt as it may be the best belt you can buy for the system after the OE tried many vendors and many belt constructions. Noise can be caused by pulley issues and misaligned pulleys. Plastic pulleys can wear and if a steel replacement is available go for that as long as it is made well, ideally stamped then formed or machined (grooved and flat pulleys respectively). Pulley alignment can be diagnosed with a laser gage like one made by Gates (there are good UA-cam videos on this)2. When trying new belts use different vendors and do not use cheap belts, go with the best brands like Gates, Conti, Dayco. If all of a sudden a new belt is flapping and the tensioner is moving and too active the belt likely has a low modulus and the one replaced is high modulus. This is controlled by the belt cord, most drive/fan belts are polyester cord and some use aramid (Kevlar) cord. Aramid is high modulus and is used when belt tension and tensioner damping cannot control the belt system and has too much vibration and belt deflections. Recognize this as it may be important because the service group of OE automotive manufacturers are out to make money and aramid cord belts are much more expensive so they don’t realize sometimes the replacement belt by then same supplier is polyester cord and screws up severely the performance of the belt drive system and wears the tensioner quickly. Yes, true, some OE’s are that ignorant they won’t service with the exacting part used in production. This once was a big problem with one manufacturer who used separate production/engineering part numbers versus separate service part numbers. This is why I say keep your original belt, you may find it is the best belt available after others are worn in. A few cracks in the belt are not to worry about as it is the cord that gives it strength and as long as there is no chuck out of the ribbed side and overall it is not delaminating and not contaminated by oil it should be OK.
Needless to say there is much more that can be added to look for when there are belt drive problems such as a bad accessory (spin all the pulleys when the belt is off), but adding this to Scotty’s advice will help keep your belt drive system running reliably and quietly.
Love Scotty's old mechanic history stories
Selfi at 5:51 is just hilarious! :D
Also, spend for a quality belt. Every belt I got from a chain auto store squealed within a week. Finally spent double the price at NAPA and the belt was quiet all the time.
I like the Continental belts.... like the old gatorback ones.
Scotty, longtime fan. Glad to see you blew up. 02 Corolla 358k...it squeaks but not when I push in the clutch or engine is low idle...belt? Pulley? Tensioner? Not super worried bc it still drives fine..but the squeaking is getting to me...I only drive it maybe 3-4 days/week as it's just my grocery getter. TIA
Best mechanic around
Scotty makes more noise than the aux belt! Nice!
Scotty man I love your vids, actually used one to change the oil one my 91' Honda integra, big up and keep the vids coming bro
Is he in dallas?
I had the same issue. all I did was tighten my alternator fan belt, since my car has 3 of them and bang it fixed the noise and it turns much better.
5:33 "just replace the stupid things" 😂☝️
😂😂
I'm old enough to not have known about serpentine belt wear. Thanks Scotty.
6:23 this is the first time I saw Scotty popping out from a car rear bonnet with difficulty.
Belt on my truck only squeals when it gets wet. Takes days, even up to a week to dry out and stop, but that belt conditioner spray seems to speeds up the process. Been this way for years, and no other problems.
Even low mileage cars that are over ten years old the belts crack with age best to replace them.
Thanks Dennis, I loved you in Easy Rider, great to see you fixing cars after the Hollywood life.
Not Hopper
Serpentine poly-V belt wear gauges are simple and work well by measuring the width of the grooves. While somewhat hard to find, they should be available at parts stores like NAPA or from some OEMs like Gates or Dayco.
To add to this. My instructor for my automotive program showed the class last year you can use ajax or comet powder to help clean the groves of the pulleys and such. Worked for me (belt is just over a year old, I have a large 320 amp alternator with a fairly small pulley on it causing it to slip when shifting at high rpm)
Lol we always say when we hear a vehicle squealing it's there turbos winding up 😁
we sure do miss you scotty !! your me and my boys go to guy for car repairs!!!
If you can't get a decent shot of the belt's position on the pulleys, just draw a diagram on paper. It doesn't have to be a work of art, just as long as you can draw small circles with a pen to represent the pulleys and their relative positions.
I have did this, and it works great.
Thanks, I call them fan belts too! Gives me a starting place. 👍
Good source material 👍
I have also had a squeaky belt but it was because the pulley grooves were worn out and I had to replace all the pulleys. Found it by replacing the belt and a month later it started squeaking again replaced the belt again and it went away only to come back. Replaced the pulleys and it fixed it.
All my belt needed was a new buckle!
This was very well explained, thank you. 😊
Very educative video! Thanks! I changed drive belt a week ago, and driving experience was quite nice without any squeaking. However, after I found the adjustment bolt was loose, and tightened up the blot, the squeaking nose comes up every time I start the engine but then the noise disappears after a short while. What could triggers this issue?
Same problem
@@davebassi7340 hey man, look at your serpentine belt on the upside. If the verbiage is set so you can read it (not upside down) reroute the belt so you can read it. I literally just had this problem straight from a dealer repair. Flipped the belt and it’s dead quiet.
Another great video! Most of the time, Scotty's videos are about cars I don't own, but I enjoy his opinion anyway!