I've watched so many videos different over the past year contemplating but can honestly say your videos really inspired me to just do it! Thank you 🙏🏽 I am in love with my new counter 😍 Wish I could attach a pic
Natalie, that is so awesome and I am so happy for you! And thank you for your kind words about my videos, I really appreciate that! I would love to see your new countertop if you'd like to email a photo to me. keith@kcdcdesigns.com Thank you again, Natalie and congrats to you!
Hi Keith , the aluminium and white metallics in this project are they mica powders or paste from just resin ? In the process of building my new worktops , have been doing small projects for 2 years .maybe going to do this as a job full time , want to get into doing floors also. I will use stonecoat for my new worktops , not used it before . but looking forward to it . thank you in advance for any information
Hey Keith, The Aluminum (I mistakenly said titanium in the video) is Just Resin paste and the White Metallic is a mica powder from PolyColor (i.e., Stone Coat). Be careful of the Aluminum because it can really take over quickly! I think you'll really like Stone Coat for it's workability and open time. It's all I've used exclusively for the past 4 years (I started with a different brand). If you do order from Stone Coat, below is a link and coupon code for at least 10% off your order. I'm now a Stone Coat affiliate so that little bit of commission helps offset my cost of doing videos. Thanks for your comment and support and please feel free to reach out if I can ever be of help! Affiliate link: www.stonecoatcountertops.com/?oid=4&affid=228 Coupon Code is: KCDC
I have not watched any countertops getting created everybody some people do things different ways the way you did this one you nailed it it looks like granite and the Very large Tile they sell now at Home Depo when I first seen people doing this it was stone cold countertops and most of their countertops they get too busy with the colors how they come out they’ve done so many countertops that I don’t like it at all but I love the Apoxsee countertops and seeing think you are like the third or fourth person that really make it look perfect I’m not trying to hate on stone cold countertops because I know they know what they’re doing but they just have design news that people probably see him scares them from wanting to do it because they probably think I don’t want my countertops to come out looking like some of those and now you killed it you definitely there is one dead stone cold dead stucco contacted with the food finish rollers sleeves like the texture of that and they use the bear paint that would look good as a floor I mean but what you just did you didn’t do a floor with that or a countertop great no pain for over 20 years so really picky just that’s how I learned make it look good actually I was at a friend of my wives last summer and I really like them and I swear like what you just did right there look a lot like their granite countertops and I’m not into granite countertops in the past and especially Apoxsee it’s just last forever and if you wanna change it you just prep it and change it i’ve been a few years when you paint different countertop or floor you really do great work👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
My apologies for the late reply! Thank you so much for your kind words! Because my full-time business is creating and designing countertops, most all of my tutorials are based on customer jobs. So the designs are actually what people are wanting. I'm not selling a product, I'm just wanting to create tutorials to help others in this industry. For one, to show new designs and how to create them, and for two, to share what I believe to be "best practices to achieve best results". Thank you again for your kind words and comments!
I am collecting all the stuff ready to do this, this video is exactly what i want. Its just wow 😯 Only thing is i have to leave my kitchen sink in, can i just use the tape and gently go around it? Great work 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thank you! Yes, you can leave the sink in, and tape around it but I would highly recommend removing it. If you leave the sink in, you will making it nearly permanent as the epoxy will seal it to your countertop. What if you wanted to replace your sink down the road? By removing the sink, you're also allowing your epoxy to seal to the cut edge, eliminating any possibility of your epoxy separating/delaminating. Yes, many epoxy contractors leave the sinks in and just tape around them, I personally would prefer to remove it.
Thank you! Regarding using a propane torch as well as a heat gun, I use the torch to pop air bubbles, and use the heat gun to manipulate the design (such as spray paint veins). The torch works best for popping bubbles, but creates too much heat when manipulating the design which is why I use a heat gun for that. Thank you for your comment, and great question!!!
That's kind of you to say! I'm 61 and sold insurance for over 30 years, until I saw a Stone Coat video showing how to do this. I was instantly hooked after playing around with it and decided start a business doing this full-time less than a year later, in Sept, 2020. This stuff still amazes me, and I couldn't draw a stickman if my life depended on it. Although I've always been a DIY'er. Thanks again for your comment!
DHi Leigh and sorry for the late reply. Yes, a wash coat is just a thin layer, of either clear or colored. There are times a wash coat is applied because it helps the color coat flow better once it's poured on the surface. The reason I will do a colored, thin wash coat is if I'm using transparent colors, or clear epoxy with Diamond Dust or other glitters that you can see through. So the colored wash coat adds depth.
Leigh, that's awesome and congrats! Please send me a pic at Keith@KCDCDesigns.com And no, I'm sorry I don't have a video on how to hone. I don't offer a honed finish to my customers. It's very labor intensive and I prefer the Ultimate Top Coat instead.
A wash coat is simply a thin layer of wet epoxy to help your epoxy colors flow easier once you pour them on the surface. If the surface is dry, your epoxy won't want to flow as easy. Remember, epoxy wants to go where epoxy as been. A wash coat is not necessary on every pour, and I rarely use a wash coat unless I'm doing a dirty/exotic pour, or as is the case on this video, I was using some very translucent colors so the wash coat provided some additional undertones.
Hi and thanks for your question! A "wash coat" is simply a thin layer of epoxy (1/2 - 1oz per square foot) applied first, right before you pour your epoxy colors. It's not always necessary, but it helps your colors spread out easier when you pour them on the surface.
I lay the backsplashes against the countertop and pour them all as one. Then after a few hours I pull them apart (so they don't stick together). Then when I install, the design on the backsplash matches up with the countertop. Did that answer your question? As a side note, I only build new countertops, I don't pour over existing surfaces. Just my business decision.
wow, I am about to run my kitchen 50sqft, I was digging for inspiration and technique. I found it here! nice work, excellent editing on the video. I realize now I need some rustolium pains to fog, and the melding plus vein technique is all I needed. Thank you very much. -JM
I really appreciate the kind words, Justin thank you! If I can help in any way, please let me know. Please share your results and you're welcome to reach out any time! Keith@KCDCDesigns.com
I have taped up edges to let it sit before removing for run overs... I like your method best without the taping...... no removal hassle. Thanks Nebraska.... you do the Lord's Work LOL!!! Excellent Video production and the Voice Over!!!!
Thanks for the kind words! I'm not a fan of taping unless I'm doing an exotic pour, as I prefer the natural runoff over the edges. What's critical is being sure your surface is level. If it's off even just a hair, it can change the design, especially around the edges. Thanks again for your comment and supporting my channel!!! Keith McGinnis
Thank you and sorry for the late reply! Great question and Art Coat is all I primarily use. Due to the minimal cost difference, greater UV protection and a little longer open time, I prefer using it for most all pours. Thanks for your comment and question!
Yes, all products used can be purchased from www.rk3designs.com. Stone Coat Countertop epoxy White Pearl - Just Resin (paste) Titanium - Just Resin (paste) White Metallic - PolyColor (mica powder) The accent colors were RustOleum spray paints in the colors: Gloss Black, Gloss White, Gloss Navy Blue
What's your experience level with epoxy? I'm not sure what you're after when you say "more detailed on how to really do this correctly". If you've never mixed epoxy before, there's too much too learn for me to give a step by step. Over the past 4 years I've spent hundreds of hours studying, learning, and practicing, and my tutorials are geared more towards sharing techniques and designs for those with some epoxy experience. If you're looking to learn more, I would highly recommend the RK3 Designs training courses held in Seguin, TX. From the beginner to pro, the classes are priceless. You can find more at www.RK3Designs.com
Of the hundreds of UA-cam videos that I have watched with Epoxy countertops, this is the most beautiful design. I would love to try and replica this, or at least get close. I am confused though about the colors. What is the first Grey one? Is that the Titanium? And if so, I can only see something from justresin called Titanium White, is that the one? Thanks.
You're exactly right, and I'm surprised I, or others did not catch that! The silver is actually Aluminum by Just Resin. Sorry about that! And thank you for the kind words, and it's a simple design to create. Just be careful with the Aluminum as it can take over very quickly. You can always add more, but very difficult to remove if you add too much. I also think what really helped with this design is the wash coat/skim coat. Please keep me posted on how your turns out, and feel free to reach out if I can be of help. Thanks again and thank you for watching and supporting my channel! Keith@kcdcdesigns.com
@@kcdcdesigns Hi, ok thanks for clearing that up. I have to do a bit more studying and practicing on smaller pieces before I am ready. So to make it clear, the three main colors are Pearl White and Aluminum Metallic from Just resin and White Metallic Mica Powder?
@@kcdcdesigns Hi Keith, As I have written before I would like to try to “copy” or get close to copy your beautiful design. If you have time, I do have a couple of questions. As I have never poured one ounce of epoxy before in my life, these questions might seem a bit stupid to you. Did you use Stone Coat’s Countertop or Art Coat Epoxy? What paint and color did you fog with? Do you let the wash coat sit for a while before you continue, and if so for hoe long? Is the 3 ounce per square foot that you use including the wash coat? What exactly is the product that you called “Magic Eraser”? Thanks a lot!
@@nikolajhines2752 I only use Stone Coat Art Coat I fog the edges with "like" colors so they'll match the epoxy colors. No, I don't let the wash coat sit, I immediately pour the epoxy color coat. 3 oz/sf, maybe 1/2oz/sf more for the wash coat but it doesn't take much. The Magic Eraser I bought off Amazon. It's for cleaning sanding discs (I don't remember what it's called). Good luck and start pouring! 😁😁
That looks great I’m Glad there are more people doing and everybody has their own craft the way they do it and you now are you nailed it that’s usually why I haven’t done my house yet because I’ve been a trainer for over 20 years I can’t draw anything like that or think of designs and like just watching what you just did looks like 1 million bucks👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you so much for the kind words! I will tell you, though that I sold insurance for over 30 years when I discovered epoxy. Learned the craft, loved it and decided to leave insurance to do this full time over 3 years ago. And I couldn't draw a stick man if my life depended on it! Where the creativity comes from to create designs, I have no idea. I just know I've always needed to be challenged, and I guess this did it. Have you even dabbled with epoxy yet? You really should, just to try it! It still blows my mind what you can create with this stuff!
This went in the men's bathroom at a local pool hall that I play pool leagues out of, so I see it fairly often, and honestly still looks like the day I installed it, in January of 2023. If epoxy countertops were not durable, or yellowed as some people claim ("yellowing is caused by user error), I wouldn't be installing them in customer homes. And I've been doing this full time for over 3 1/2 years.
FREAKING amazing. I love watching your vids and have been learning some techniques. I just did 4 sample boards and I'm going to follow your receipt for the UTC matte and gloss
Thank you so much, I really appreciate the kind words! If you have any questions on the UTC, please feel free to reach out. Good for you and keep on pouring!!!
@@hudacrafts no you do not. Although I apply the Ultimate Top Coat to all my customer countertops, due to added durability and that it's fully cured in 48 hours (although the epoxy below that is still curing until the 30 day mark), I have many customer tops that don't have it because it wasn't released yet. Stone Coat epoxy is still extremely durable, food-prep safe, anti-bacterial, etc... My folks' countertops don't have UTC and after nearly 4 years are holding up incredibly well! Great question and thanks for asking!
If you're doing this all yourself, material costs will run $8-$10/sf. As far as what a contractor/epoxy artisan would charge, it depends on your area and the experience of the contractor. For me I'm about the same cost as contractor grade granite, but a fraction of the cost of high-end natural stone.
Yes sir, great video but other than individuals who start using 4x8 insulation sheets for shower surround no one really tells us what the foundation is? Plywood? An old Formica top? Or another product?
Gotcha, and thanks for clarifying! All substrates in my video are MDF unless noted otherwise (I think I have a few on XPS foam panels as wall art). Countertops are 3/4" MDF, smaller sample boards are 1/2" MDF. Thanks for watching and supporting my channel, I really appreciate it!
did you use primer before you start puring the resin .the other question what kind of spray paint do you use. is it just a simple and any kind of spray paint or a specific for resin art
Hi, I used Stone Coat's Epoxy Undercoat paint, 2 coats and sanding in between coats. And RustOleum spray paints in Gloss or Satin (Flat does not work well with epoxy) have worked the best. If you try another brand, test it first to be sure it's compatible with the epoxy you're using.
Hi Kristi, the wash coat is from the same batch. By using the shower squeegee to apply the wash coat, it goes on very quickly so I don't have to worry about the rest of the epoxy that I've mixed up sitting too long in the bucket. Although, it's something to always be mindful of! Thanks for your comment and great question!
Hey there and thanks for your question! No, I did not use a bonding primer as my substrate is MDF. Bonding primer is recommended when going over a non-porous surface, such as granite, laminate, etc. For undercoat paint, I apply 2 coats of Stone Coat's Undercoat Paint.
@kcdcdesigns im going over maple plywood. Have to pour today. What would you reccomend i use from hardware or big box store? Primer? paint and primer? Etc
When going over plywood (not recommended), I would first apply a thin seal coat of epoxy as plywood can release air bubbles and you'll want those sealed up before applying your undercoat paint. A seal coat can be 1/2 oz - 1 oz per sf. If all the air bubbles pop, you can then sand the epoxy surface with 220 grit and apply your undercoat paint (so you have a solid color as a base for your epoxy color coat.). Did you apply bondo over your edges? If not, the layers of the ply's can be a problem for air bubbles as well. Regarding big box store paint, we recommend Behr Marquee as it has the lowest ammonia content. And after your coat of paint, you'll want to wait a MINIMUM of 24 hours for that paint to off-gas prior to pouring expoy. Sorry, I know this is probably not what you wanted to hear.
@kcdcdesigns i did bondo all edges and all nail holes. So seal coat then primer then basecoat paint then my pour? Not wasnt what i wanted to hear but ill live and figure it out . Appreciate the info 100%
I've watched so many videos different over the past year contemplating but can honestly say your videos really inspired me to just do it! Thank you 🙏🏽 I am in love with my new counter 😍 Wish I could attach a pic
Natalie, that is so awesome and I am so happy for you! And thank you for your kind words about my videos, I really appreciate that!
I would love to see your new countertop if you'd like to email a photo to me. keith@kcdcdesigns.com
Thank you again, Natalie and congrats to you!
Hi Keith , the aluminium and white metallics in this project are they mica powders or paste from just resin ?
In the process of building my new worktops , have been doing small projects for 2 years .maybe going to do this as a job full time , want to get into doing floors also. I will use stonecoat for my new worktops , not used it before . but looking forward to it .
thank you in advance for any information
Hey Keith,
The Aluminum (I mistakenly said titanium in the video) is Just Resin paste and the White Metallic is a mica powder from PolyColor (i.e., Stone Coat). Be careful of the Aluminum because it can really take over quickly!
I think you'll really like Stone Coat for it's workability and open time. It's all I've used exclusively for the past 4 years (I started with a different brand).
If you do order from Stone Coat, below is a link and coupon code for at least 10% off your order. I'm now a Stone Coat affiliate so that little bit of commission helps offset my cost of doing videos.
Thanks for your comment and support and please feel free to reach out if I can ever be of help!
Affiliate link: www.stonecoatcountertops.com/?oid=4&affid=228
Coupon Code is: KCDC
I have not watched any countertops getting created everybody some people do things different ways the way you did this one you nailed it it looks like granite and the Very large Tile they sell now at Home Depo when I first seen people doing this it was stone cold countertops and most of their countertops they get too busy with the colors how they come out they’ve done so many countertops that I don’t like it at all but I love the Apoxsee countertops and seeing think you are like the third or fourth person that really make it look perfect I’m not trying to hate on stone cold countertops because I know they know what they’re doing but they just have design news that people probably see him scares them from wanting to do it because they probably think I don’t want my countertops to come out looking like some of those and now you killed it you definitely there is one dead stone cold dead stucco contacted with the food finish rollers sleeves like the texture of that and they use the bear paint that would look good as a floor I mean but what you just did you didn’t do a floor with that or a countertop great no pain for over 20 years so really picky just that’s how I learned make it look good actually I was at a friend of my wives last summer and I really like them and I swear like what you just did right there look a lot like their granite countertops and I’m not into granite countertops in the past and especially Apoxsee it’s just last forever and if you wanna change it you just prep it and change it i’ve been a few years when you paint different countertop or floor you really do great work👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
My apologies for the late reply!
Thank you so much for your kind words! Because my full-time business is creating and designing countertops, most all of my tutorials are based on customer jobs. So the designs are actually what people are wanting.
I'm not selling a product, I'm just wanting to create tutorials to help others in this industry. For one, to show new designs and how to create them, and for two, to share what I believe to be "best practices to achieve best results".
Thank you again for your kind words and comments!
Loved this piece Keith!! Keep up the amazing work sir 👍👍
Thank you so much, I appreciate your comment and kind words!
I am collecting all the stuff ready to do this, this video is exactly what i want. Its just wow 😯 Only thing is i have to leave my kitchen sink in, can i just use the tape and gently go around it? Great work 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thank you!
Yes, you can leave the sink in, and tape around it but I would highly recommend removing it. If you leave the sink in, you will making it nearly permanent as the epoxy will seal it to your countertop. What if you wanted to replace your sink down the road?
By removing the sink, you're also allowing your epoxy to seal to the cut edge, eliminating any possibility of your epoxy separating/delaminating.
Yes, many epoxy contractors leave the sinks in and just tape around them, I personally would prefer to remove it.
Hi
Amazing video and the finish
Can I ask why did you use both fire and heating and not only one of them ?
Thank you! Regarding using a propane torch as well as a heat gun, I use the torch to pop air bubbles, and use the heat gun to manipulate the design (such as spray paint veins). The torch works best for popping bubbles, but creates too much heat when manipulating the design which is why I use a heat gun for that.
Thank you for your comment, and great question!!!
Now..........THAT'S the way it should be done!
Absolutely stunning!
Thank you!
Do you work with epoxy as well?
@@kcdcdesigns I haver never tried it (73 years old), but I know vision and craftsmanship when I see it!
That's kind of you to say!
I'm 61 and sold insurance for over 30 years, until I saw a Stone Coat video showing how to do this. I was instantly hooked after playing around with it and decided start a business doing this full-time less than a year later, in Sept, 2020.
This stuff still amazes me, and I couldn't draw a stickman if my life depended on it.
Although I've always been a DIY'er.
Thanks again for your comment!
How do you do a wash coat? Is it just a thin layer of colored epoxy? And what’s the reason for it?
DHi Leigh and sorry for the late reply.
Yes, a wash coat is just a thin layer, of either clear or colored. There are times a wash coat is applied because it helps the color coat flow better once it's poured on the surface. The reason I will do a colored, thin wash coat is if I'm using transparent colors, or clear epoxy with Diamond Dust or other glitters that you can see through. So the colored wash coat adds depth.
@@kcdcdesigns thanks so much! I plan to do this design. It’s beautiful
You're very welcome and please let me know if I can be of help. Have fun and please keep me posted on your project!
@@kcdcdesigns I did mine! Turned out pretty good. I love your videos. Do you have one on how to hone?
Leigh, that's awesome and congrats!
Please send me a pic at Keith@KCDCDesigns.com
And no, I'm sorry I don't have a video on how to hone. I don't offer a honed finish to my customers. It's very labor intensive and I prefer the Ultimate Top Coat instead.
what you use for if you want a stone base instead of say melamine?
The material I use to build all my countertops is MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard). I personally would not use melamine for countertops.
How You Do A Wash Coat Paint ???
What Is The Recipe For Wash Coat Paint ???
Beautiful Epoxy Marble
Amén.
A wash coat is simply a thin layer of wet epoxy to help your epoxy colors flow easier once you pour them on the surface. If the surface is dry, your epoxy won't want to flow as easy. Remember, epoxy wants to go where epoxy as been.
A wash coat is not necessary on every pour, and I rarely use a wash coat unless I'm doing a dirty/exotic pour, or as is the case on this video, I was using some very translucent colors so the wash coat provided some additional undertones.
@@kcdcdesigns Thank You So Much, I Will Try Clear Epoxy And A Little Black Paint To Create What You Did, Thank You My Friend.
You're very welcome and please keep me posted!
Hermoso trabajo, q le puso al final?
Thank you. It's a final top coat product called Ultimate Top coat by Stone Coat..
Super Narration Explanation and Tips.. I found it very helpful.. thank you sir!!!
Thank you so much, I appreciate the feedback!
Hi im confused to exactly what the wash coat is. It seems to go on more watery than the design colours. Could you tell me exactly How did you make it?
Hi and thanks for your question! A "wash coat" is simply a thin layer of epoxy (1/2 - 1oz per square foot) applied first, right before you pour your epoxy colors. It's not always necessary, but it helps your colors spread out easier when you pour them on the surface.
How would you do a backsplash?.
I lay the backsplashes against the countertop and pour them all as one. Then after a few hours I pull them apart (so they don't stick together). Then when I install, the design on the backsplash matches up with the countertop.
Did that answer your question?
As a side note, I only build new countertops, I don't pour over existing surfaces. Just my business decision.
wow, I am about to run my kitchen 50sqft, I was digging for inspiration and technique. I found it here! nice work, excellent editing on the video. I realize now I need some rustolium pains to fog, and the melding plus vein technique is all I needed. Thank you very much. -JM
I really appreciate the kind words, Justin thank you! If I can help in any way, please let me know.
Please share your results and you're welcome to reach out any time! Keith@KCDCDesigns.com
What is your substrate?😊
We fabricate all our countertops using 3/4" MDF.
Thanks for your question!
I have taped up edges to let it sit before removing for run overs... I like your method best without the taping...... no removal hassle. Thanks Nebraska.... you do the Lord's Work LOL!!! Excellent Video production and the Voice Over!!!!
Thanks for the kind words!
I'm not a fan of taping unless I'm doing an exotic pour, as I prefer the natural runoff over the edges. What's critical is being sure your surface is level. If it's off even just a hair, it can change the design, especially around the edges.
Thanks again for your comment and supporting my channel!!! Keith McGinnis
Great work on the veins!
Very authentic looking !
Thank you!!!!
@@BrettCunningham-ij6qi
عمل رائع 🎉🎉🎉
Thank you!
Beautiful work Keith. Did you use SCC Art Coat because of the white?
Thank you and sorry for the late reply!
Great question and Art Coat is all I primarily use. Due to the minimal cost difference, greater UV protection and a little longer open time, I prefer using it for most all pours. Thanks for your comment and question!
is there a website that i can buy all the items and colors in this video.
Yes, all products used can be purchased from www.rk3designs.com.
Stone Coat Countertop epoxy
White Pearl - Just Resin (paste)
Titanium - Just Resin (paste)
White Metallic - PolyColor (mica powder)
The accent colors were RustOleum spray paints in the colors:
Gloss Black, Gloss White, Gloss Navy Blue
Do you have like a step by step? Like more detailed on how to really do this correctly?
What's your experience level with epoxy?
I'm not sure what you're after when you say "more detailed on how to really do this correctly".
If you've never mixed epoxy before, there's too much too learn for me to give a step by step.
Over the past 4 years I've spent hundreds of hours studying, learning, and practicing, and my tutorials are geared more towards sharing techniques and designs for those with some epoxy experience. If you're looking to learn more, I would highly recommend the RK3 Designs training courses held in Seguin, TX. From the beginner to pro, the classes are priceless.
You can find more at www.RK3Designs.com
Of the hundreds of UA-cam videos that I have watched with Epoxy countertops, this is the most beautiful design. I would love to try and replica this, or at least get close.
I am confused though about the colors.
What is the first Grey one? Is that the Titanium? And if so, I can only see something from justresin called Titanium White, is that the one?
Thanks.
You're exactly right, and I'm surprised I, or others did not catch that! The silver is actually Aluminum by Just Resin. Sorry about that!
And thank you for the kind words, and it's a simple design to create. Just be careful with the Aluminum as it can take over very quickly. You can always add more, but very difficult to remove if you add too much.
I also think what really helped with this design is the wash coat/skim coat.
Please keep me posted on how your turns out, and feel free to reach out if I can be of help.
Thanks again and thank you for watching and supporting my channel!
Keith@kcdcdesigns.com
@@kcdcdesigns Hi, ok thanks for clearing that up. I have to do a bit more studying and practicing on smaller pieces before I am ready. So to make it clear, the three main colors are Pearl White and Aluminum Metallic from Just resin and White Metallic Mica Powder?
@@nikolajhines2752 you got it!
@@kcdcdesigns Hi Keith,
As I have written before I would like to try to “copy” or get close to copy your beautiful design.
If you have time, I do have a couple of questions. As I have never poured one ounce of epoxy before in my life, these questions might seem a bit stupid to you.
Did you use Stone Coat’s Countertop or Art Coat Epoxy?
What paint and color did you fog with?
Do you let the wash coat sit for a while before you continue, and if so for hoe long?
Is the 3 ounce per square foot that you use including the wash coat?
What exactly is the product that you called “Magic Eraser”?
Thanks a lot!
@@nikolajhines2752
I only use Stone Coat Art Coat
I fog the edges with "like" colors so they'll match the epoxy colors.
No, I don't let the wash coat sit, I immediately pour the epoxy color coat.
3 oz/sf, maybe 1/2oz/sf more for the wash coat but it doesn't take much.
The Magic Eraser I bought off Amazon. It's for cleaning sanding discs (I don't remember what it's called).
Good luck and start pouring! 😁😁
This is outstanding I can’t wait to see the women’s bathroom
Thank you, Dena! Here's the tutorial on the women's bathroom: ua-cam.com/video/XabLH5wFIDc/v-deo.html
Thanks!
You're welcome and thank you so much!!!
That looks great I’m Glad there are more people doing and everybody has their own craft the way they do it and you now are you nailed it that’s usually why I haven’t done my house yet because I’ve been a trainer for over 20 years I can’t draw anything like that or think of designs and like just watching what you just did looks like 1 million bucks👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you so much for the kind words! I will tell you, though that I sold insurance for over 30 years when I discovered epoxy. Learned the craft, loved it and decided to leave insurance to do this full time over 3 years ago. And I couldn't draw a stick man if my life depended on it! Where the creativity comes from to create designs, I have no idea. I just know I've always needed to be challenged, and I guess this did it.
Have you even dabbled with epoxy yet? You really should, just to try it! It still blows my mind what you can create with this stuff!
I your wear your apron you would save the shirts. 😂. Great job 👏🏻👏🏻
True dat! LOL and thanks!
Thank you for showing the whole process ^_^
You're very welcome, thanks so much for watching and supporting my channel!
Nice job though the talking was a bit much
Thank you, and thanks for your feedback on the talking.
Outstanding! Thank you
You're welcome and thank you for the nice comment!
How does it look like after 6 months?
This went in the men's bathroom at a local pool hall that I play pool leagues out of, so I see it fairly often, and honestly still looks like the day I installed it, in January of 2023. If epoxy countertops were not durable, or yellowed as some people claim ("yellowing is caused by user error), I wouldn't be installing them in customer homes. And I've been doing this full time for over 3 1/2 years.
Thanks for showing the blue highlights, they were a great finishing touch.
You're welcome and thank you, Belinda!
Beautiful piece man, beautiful!!! Love those veins!!!
Thank you so much, Michael! :)
FREAKING amazing. I love watching your vids and have been learning some techniques. I just did 4 sample boards and I'm going to follow your receipt for the UTC matte and gloss
Thank you so much, I really appreciate the kind words!
If you have any questions on the UTC, please feel free to reach out.
Good for you and keep on pouring!!!
@@kcdcdesigns do we have to use the utc at the end ?
@@hudacrafts no you do not. Although I apply the Ultimate Top Coat to all my customer countertops, due to added durability and that it's fully cured in 48 hours (although the epoxy below that is still curing until the 30 day mark), I have many customer tops that don't have it because it wasn't released yet.
Stone Coat epoxy is still extremely durable, food-prep safe, anti-bacterial, etc...
My folks' countertops don't have UTC and after nearly 4 years are holding up incredibly well!
Great question and thanks for asking!
@@kcdcdesignsthank you sir⚘
@@hudacrafts You're very welcome!
What kind of projects do you currently work on? I'd love to see what you create!
You dont have to sand the stone first
Thanks for commenting, but can you explain what you mean?
How much does it cost to do this ?
If you're doing this all yourself, material costs will run $8-$10/sf. As far as what a contractor/epoxy artisan would charge, it depends on your area and the experience of the contractor.
For me I'm about the same cost as contractor grade granite, but a fraction of the cost of high-end natural stone.
Awesome look… I like the vein work! 👊
Thank you, Brett!
Beautiful great job Keith
Thanks, Jessica!
Keith- your work is always so incredible
Thank you so much, Doris! 🥰
Ahhh kind of forgot to tell us what your base was
Are you referring to the white? Or what "base" are you referring to?
Yes sir, great video but other than individuals who start using 4x8 insulation sheets for shower surround no one really tells us what the foundation is? Plywood? An old Formica top? Or another product?
Gotcha, and thanks for clarifying!
All substrates in my video are MDF unless noted otherwise (I think I have a few on XPS foam panels as wall art). Countertops are 3/4" MDF, smaller sample boards are 1/2" MDF.
Thanks for watching and supporting my channel, I really appreciate it!
This recipe would look great in my bathroom. When I replace the sink, ...game on!!!
Great idea!!
Love those UTC time lapses
Thanks, John I do as well!
I really love that product!!!
Looks awesome!!
Thank you!
Wow! This is so beautiful!
I appreciate that, thank you!
What was the total amount of epoxy you mixed for that project
3 oz per sf. I believe that was 10 sf so I would have mixed up 30 oz. Then 3 oz/sf for the flood coat as well. Total amount for that project = 60 oz.
Beautiful, love this
Thank you, Sherry!
great work~~
Thank you!!!
Do you work with epoxy?
So nice….👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks! And it looks like I'll get the chance to meet you at the RK3 Designs Pro Class next week!
Keith McGinnis
@@kcdcdesigns yes and I’m excited to meet you and others….
did you use primer before you start puring the resin .the other question what kind of spray paint do you use. is it just a simple and any kind of spray paint or a specific for resin art
Hi, I used Stone Coat's Epoxy Undercoat paint, 2 coats and sanding in between coats. And RustOleum spray paints in Gloss or Satin (Flat does not work well with epoxy) have worked the best. If you try another brand, test it first to be sure it's compatible with the epoxy you're using.
Very nice
Thank you!
perfect 👍
Thank you!
Gorgeous
Thank you!
Is your wash coat and color coat from the same batch or do you mix separately?
Hi Kristi, the wash coat is from the same batch. By using the shower squeegee to apply the wash coat, it goes on very quickly so I don't have to worry about the rest of the epoxy that I've mixed up sitting too long in the bucket. Although, it's something to always be mindful of!
Thanks for your comment and great question!
What was the total amount of epoxy you mixed
Did you use a bonding primer?
Hey there and thanks for your question!
No, I did not use a bonding primer as my substrate is MDF. Bonding primer is recommended when going over a non-porous surface, such as granite, laminate, etc. For undercoat paint, I apply 2 coats of Stone Coat's Undercoat Paint.
@kcdcdesigns im going over maple plywood. Have to pour today. What would you reccomend i use from hardware or big box store? Primer? paint and primer? Etc
When going over plywood (not recommended), I would first apply a thin seal coat of epoxy as plywood can release air bubbles and you'll want those sealed up before applying your undercoat paint. A seal coat can be 1/2 oz - 1 oz per sf. If all the air bubbles pop, you can then sand the epoxy surface with 220 grit and apply your undercoat paint (so you have a solid color as a base for your epoxy color coat.).
Did you apply bondo over your edges? If not, the layers of the ply's can be a problem for air bubbles as well.
Regarding big box store paint, we recommend Behr Marquee as it has the lowest ammonia content. And after your coat of paint, you'll want to wait a MINIMUM of 24 hours for that paint to off-gas prior to pouring expoy.
Sorry, I know this is probably not what you wanted to hear.
@kcdcdesigns its solid maple not like partical board
@kcdcdesigns i did bondo all edges and all nail holes. So seal coat then primer then basecoat paint then my pour? Not wasnt what i wanted to hear but ill live and figure it out . Appreciate the info 100%