How much psi does that pressure washer of yours have in order to tear the weeds out? I'm looking for a pressure washer but I don't know what I should be looking for in terms of pressure. Thanks!
Get the chemical that's "Round Up" from your local agricultural center -- they sell to farmers and it's about 10 times (I'm guessing, but VERY} stronger than what you buy for homeowners.
The reason that you need to spray that special sand with water is to activate the chemicals mixed within it. If using a hose on a larger area, use the finest spray option to avoid washing away the sand from the opening.
Actually the backer rod serves 3 very important purposes 1 it gives the proper depth. As a general rule sealant should be 1/2 as deep as it is wide but not less than1/4” nor more than 1/2” deep 2 it prevents a 3 sided bond 3 it gives the proper profile sealant should be concave on the top and the bottom ) ( this allows it to stretch.) Never put sand into wet sealant. It shortens its life substantially Polymeric sand is a VERY bad idea in this type of joint. It doesn’t stretch enough to account for the movement. And it can also cause the concrete to crack because it only compresses minimally I have been a professional caulker for over 40 years. When installed properly sealant should last a minimum of 20+ years
I am curious about "Never put sand into wet sealant." Is there any way to avoid that plastic look of the sealant? Would you say the same of pea gravel? (I have those ugly aggregate walkways.)
@genevarden… Question would you think it would be a good idea to use sand instead of backer rod then use the sikafkex on top? Reason for using sand is that I have some sand bags that I don’t need and could use the sand as a filler
@@BigOsTaco it is never a good idea to use sand under sealant. It shortens the sealant’s lifespan significantly You should always use backer rod. You can not get the proper sealant profile with sand. The proper profile is critical to the life of the sealant. It is so critical that if I use anything but backer rod as filler the manufacturer warranty is void.
Simple solution for cracks and gravel or rocks you put down is to boil water in your tea kettle (this boils water really fast due to construction of kettle). Next slowly pour from kettle on weeds and avoid feet. This will kill sprouts that have not come up yet too. The weeds are dead immediately and if really large you might need to hit a couple of days later. Then sweep after everything is dead and you can always remove the dirt with a hoe edge or something. So much simpler than poisons which might harm your pets or you.
Those poisons, even IF (BIG if) they spare pets and kids WILL end up in the waterways and in the tap water. Big Chem industry is killing us and must be shut down if we humans want to have a fighting chance….
Great video! We had weeds and nutsedge growing in between all our driveway expansion joints. Fought them for years. Our driveway has 20 expansion joints. Wide for 3-car garage. We used the backer rod and Sika 2 years ago and haven't been disappointed. There are a couple of places were a weed might peek its little head, but that's b/c we didn't caulk that area properly. Wish we'd known about your sand overlay trick - that would have been perfect! Thanks for explaining everything so well. Much appreciated.
Used the 1. One self leveling it is awesome, but you have to be some handy. Saw it by my neighbor, but she let free spaces so weed grew again. Some times it leaves bubbles you have to go over again or fill slower the crack. After two years I saw one weed grow. So I am amazed and I saved a lot of time and did not get so dirty when I pressure wash. Thanks for the video.
Sometimes, Ive used an old butter knife as a weed tool. Nice and thin. Boiling hot water straight from the jug, poured hot straight away , can hold back weed growth for quite a while in a place like a crack, or around edges as its much better than poison. But never carry that boiling water around when children or animals are about. Carry it carefully, hot water inside a lidded jug. Its known to last about a season at least, hot water on the weeds, and do that when weeds are small is better. Also can use it on a small mould area on paver, testing this idea, ok so far it dried up the green mould growth in a shaded area on pavers outside. Best not to do it if been raining, do it when soil is drier.
I've read that simple salt will work as well = salt the soil. No worries about burning anyone with boiling water. Probably lasts as long as it doesn't get diluted to a certain level.
Great video! I think it mainly depends on the size of the gap between the concrete. Backer rod and the caulk would work well with a bigger gap. Small gaps that sand material you use is very versatile and functional. I’m going to do this myself! Always great content!
I’ve had great success with a product called Sika.It is self leveling and the width of the gap is not very important.It is the depth of the separation,which can be controlled by filling to prescribed depth so the caulk can fully cure in a reasonable amount of time.Lowe’s,Home Depot,and Menards carry this compound in the large caulk tubes.I think they are about $15 a tube,and it is some tough stuff.
Thank you...good tips! The most important reason for using backer rod with Sikaflex is as a bond breaker to take advantage of its elasticity. The backer rod allows the Sikaflex to bond to only two sides of the gap. If the Sikaflex is bonded to the bottom of crack and both sides, its elongation becomes zero and any movement will rupture it.
Actually it is only one of the 3 reasons to use backer rod the other 2 are depth control and proper profile. I have been a professional caulker fog more than 40 years. It’s not rocket science but if done right it should last 20-30 years
The reason is absolutely NOT to save material. The backer rod is ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY it’s 3 major functions are 1. Preventing a 3 sided bond 2proper depth control as a general rule sealant should be 1/2 as deep as it is wide. But not less tha 1/4” deep or more than 1/2” deep 3. It gives the sealant the proper profile .it should be concave and n both the top and the bottom . Like this ) ( I have been a professional caulker for more than 40 years. When installed properly sealant should last a minimum of 20 years
We had polymeric sand between travertine slabs and it was awful. Moss grew in it and in removing the moss, the sand came out. It had to be re-done every year. We ended up replacing everything with bluestone and cement. I'd go with the backer and Sikaflex.
I was just watching another video where they were using that polymeric sand. Darn I was hoping to be able to use that because I don’t have anyone else to help me. Usually if my back is not killing me, I sprinkle Casoron down into the cracks. It works for about six months of weed prevention.
I've used polymeric sand in the past as well, and it's a very temporary solution. What they don't mention is that though it dries hard, rain and water will loosen it again and can wash it away. And I've found that tough weeds can send roots through the dried polymeric sand and grow. Really the only thing it's good for is if you're trying to sell the house and need just a temporary cosmetic solution that'll last a few weeks so you can sell the house, then let the new owners deal with the problem after they move in.
Great video. I used polymeric sand in between my pavers four years ago, and a couple of nutsedge weeds made their way through it. Plus, you need to be careful when powerwashing at a later date to not aim the water there or it will be removed. For this application, I would use the backer rod.😊
I have pavers in my back yard around the pool with polymeric sand between them all. Weeds everywhere!!! It works fine for a couple years, but then you start getting weeds between the pavers. Don't use Polymeric for a permanent solution.
I have used the backer rope technique before but WANT TO TRY YOUR WONDERFUL IDEA ON THE POLYMER SAND. As long as it hardens where no grains come off, certainly easier and less time than doing the rope. Thanks sooo much for sharing!!
We had a "professional" install a patio and finished it with polymeric sand. Where he put the polymeric sand didn't last and he ran out of it, so asked me to buy more and finish the job. I was more particular in making sure the voids were filled and they have lasted better and resist power washing and weeds, to a greater extent. However, I'm not really happy with it and I'm gradually using a Cement mix to replace all the jointing. It's very easy to take out. We were told it would lock all the slabs, which were already laid on a Cement bed. But around a third of the patio has become unstable. I will say it Ages to an okay colour, more sort of glassy grey. So it is pleasing to see. I liked your idea of using a vacuum. That's my method too, because weeds spread if you use a power washer to remove them. I guess it all depends where you are working. I like the applicator with the gun idea. Seen it a few times and may give it a go on another patio or path. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you. I've pressure washed, dug out, used dawn/vinegar, 30% vinegar(Home Depot), boiled water and round up weed/grass killer. The round up...two days later weeds are still thriving and then I have to dig the weeds up. Two to three weeks I'm weeding again. Thank you again for the helpful tips.
I like the fact you didn't use herbicides or pesticides. I have used sika flex products in the past for remedial work. I was successful in fixing a leak to a building.. Of coarse with the help of the owner and elimination process.great video. Thankyou for uploading.
This is such a major problem in my pavers every year, Thanks this looks like a great DIY solution. Pavers looks so good when they first go in but, give weeds a year and they will try their best to mess things up.
Never had much luck with the Poly Sand... Always end up needing to redo my Bluestone walkway every couple of years. Even had "The pros" do it and yet again.. needs to be done yet again
I've used polymeric sand on my pavers. I have to dig out weeds and re-apply it every year. So, backer rod and caulk sounds like the better solution, for a garage.
We use vinegar, salt and detergent mix to kill the weeds but have to redo later… tried polymeric sand. Weeds grew through it 2 years later. Will try the first solution.
I use oscillating multi-tool and worn out blades for cutting, better and faster than hand tools. Those leveling compound could be pricey with a larger project, I had success with stucco/fiber mix. Not much expansion/contraction like the levering compounds but much cheaper, so far so good.
You must remove the weds completely roots and all then apply water softener salt to the cracks and any other field of weeds afrer ther removal ! Then apply water to dissolve the salt on the application area thre applications of salt one month apart for three months this will keep the weds from growing back forever ! No chemicals necessary ! FYI !
I put in a brick huge pstio on sand . The bricks are as ckose together as poss and probably less 1/16 of an inch of the base,sand showing between the bricks but i still get weeds esp spruge. How can I use this glue like sand on a 32ft by 20ft patio without it sticking on the bricks?
I got a rubber gasket (different widths) that's flat on top and tapered on bottom with longitudinal groves. pound it level and seems to work pretty good. Your solutions also look good.
I did 19 pallets of pavers with polymeric sand and while it did turn out great and we love it, we still get weeks growing up from time to time. The problem is the ground moves and the polymeric sand does not. It sets hard and crumbles if there is movement in the pavers. And our concrete driveway also has many expansion joints and they all over over time. So I'm going with the Sika and wash sand on the top. Thanks for the video.
Paving by its very nature has to be flexible, to try to make it rigid is a complete waste of time. Depending on the type of pavers they would normally be bedded on a layer of 2" sharp washed sand that will be on a stone sub-base and then on completion a layer of the same sand but finer is vibro-compacted into the joints to get some friction between the pavers. The best way to keep the pavers weed free is to constantly drive over the whole area in use and remove the odd weed that manages to grow.
Came here for the weeds, got interested in the garage door seal at the bottom. I have tried 2 different products and neither worked well. Hoping you have a video on whatever you used.
I was just looking at some really embarrassing weeds in my driveway earlier today. Amazing how the algorithm knew I need to watch this video. In the past I've used a grinder to clean out cracks then an adhesion promoter then a quickrete crack filler that is probably the same material as the Sika flex. I've used that stuff before elsewhere just not in the concrete.
When I saw the price of backer rod, I purchased a case of pool noodles at Walmart. Only .97 oodle. I then cut to the size I needed. I also did this for cabin walls before filling. Just a thought.
Great detailed video. D0 you have a video with the same proces between asphalt and sidewalk because this is the problem that I have. Secondly, the second problem is on the side edges of my dryway. Thank you
Thanks, but I think there is a big difference between problems with a (laid brick) drive that has loads of joints over the whole surface, compared to one long gap in front of the garage door. Also I can't tell if your solution will continue to let water through it to avoid creating flooding at the bottom of the slope when it rains. Need more info to know if these solutions will help in my case.
Considering that climate change will confront us with extended periods of extreme weather, continuing to seal off our soils seems wildly irresponsible to me. Maybe it's time to accept that a little moss in the cracks doesn't really hurt anyone. Sealed soils and concrete wastelands that don't allow for water to naturally seep away will inevitably lead to sinking ground water levels and elevated risk of flooding.
Yes, they bothare very good solutions. As a constructive suggestion, I use vinnegar with cinnoan mixture. It works very well. Thank yo, much appreciate it.
My neighbor would boil water in her teapot go to the driveway and pour on the cracks once a week in the spring,then once a month all summer. Nothing ever grew in her driveway.
I pressure cleaned my pavers and now weeds are shooting between. Obviously i blew out the sand between. My question is once ive fixed the issue with method 2 how are you meant to clean pavers? Sealing with method 1 would seem a long term solution but that would be truck loads of sealant for my property.
I tried the sealant and it worked great - I didn't do it for weeds but to fill in the gaps on my driveway. Question on the Polymeric Sand: over time, how would it compare to the sealant - would it expand/move with temperature? Thank you for the video, very helpful.
I have used a product similar to Sika flex in my basement and I have also used polymeric sand on my walkway. During the winter the frost heave lifted the middle of the walkway and broke the polymeric seal. I don't have weeds but the ants have gotten through. Kind of wondering if a flexible sealer might work better.
Polymeric sand will eventually crack due to slight shifts in the concrete. Sadly I have not seen it last more than about 2 years at best, so odds are you will still need to touch it up every once in a while
Yes and I use polymeric sand just now on a small pave pathway and it cost me $36 a bucket. For that small amount I’ll stick with that concrete seal. But I do have 1/4 bucket leftover so this is a win for me with polymeric sand method.
Thank you Steven! Perfect to prevent rain or water from going inside the garage. Here is the video I made on it : m.ua-cam.com/video/3HIyqHOJ2Nk/v-deo.html&pp=ygUcUHJldmVudCB3YXRlciBnYXJhZ2UgZ2FyYWdlIA%3D%3D
I have used Sika for yrs, but many cracks I have to cut it out and replace it…I ultimately see it separating. If you have any movement of the concrete along the seams, it fails faster. But I like it and continue to use it because I have yet to find anything better
@@FixThisHouse no I haven’t. Actually I have never seen it. Do you think it bonds better to the concrete? And how does the flexibility compare to Sika? And one more…if it does fail and separate, do you think removing it would be easier or more difficult to remove compared to Sika. Thanks!
@@mse1333 First time I heard of using poly sand. It's used between pavers, and my pavers have held up well, and pavers have more movement than solid concrete. To me, the self leveler looks fake and doesn't blend well even with sand, my opinion, my experience. Good luck~
I have removed the weeds and soil between the cuts in the concrete pathway. I am wondering if filling the gaps with expanding foam would be an option before sealing with a sealant. If I do this, I will let the expanding foam cure for a day or so, then cut away a channel from the top to fill it with a sealant. What do you think?
If you live on a slope using self leveling sika caulk is not the answer. You need to use a non sag type caulk to fill the downhill expansion cracks on your driveway. Sika is the bomb though. i have had Sika on my concrete driveway for at least 5 years. The bermuda grass is attempting to work it's way under the sealant now at the edges. Back to square one. Remove and and reinstall fresh sealant.
An easier way instead of using a small shovel to put in the sand is to get a medium-sized plastic funnel and poor the sand into it. Then dragged the bottom part of the funnel along the channel. You may have to tap the photo on the bottom the event the sand gets clogged.
Thanks for sharing. Could you use polymeric sand on bigger gaps? I have this huge 2-3 inch gap between 2 concrete in one of my back yard that I want to seal.
Let me pull up my arm chair here... As stated earlier, it isn't a good idea to have anything sitting in the sealant. As far as using the poly sand, it is not always the best choice, but it can be used. However, you definitely need to use some sort of vibration machine on the sand in order to make sure that it has properly settled into the crack. Notice that when you hit it with the water, it sank/settled a bit. Also, you need to use a little more water on the first pass, because you don't want the top layer of the sand to be the only one that gets the water to make the poly(glue) activated. This will then allow the lower layers of sand to remain dry as a cap is then formed on top of the poly sand. Then over time the lower level of sand will settle more and then be easier for the rain to wash away.
I bet he doesn't deal with freeze-thaw, but if that's the case one should stick with the caulk that flexes. (There's a reason why those gaps in pavement are called expansion joints.)
@@Tholiuson pavers the area of each paver is relatively small so thermal expansion is minimal. So on pavers polymeric sand is fine . But concrete slabs are much larger so thermal expansion/contraction can be significant the sand won’t tolerate this much movement and because sand doesn’t compress significantly,it can actually spawl the concrete in some instances.(not very common but can happen) Having said that , the polymeric sand should not have washed away ( that’s kind of the point) did you wet it a few times so it would harden?
Hi! It’s a garage door threshold seal. It prevents rain water from coming in. I made a video on the install, please check out my garage door playlist . Here is also the link for the seal : amzn.to/44dN9iO
What is on the floor of your garage meeting your door? It looks like a rubber seal, but what is it called. Great video. Also, what do you think about using a blower to remove the dirt from the joint after getting the weeds out?
Hi! I have 2 pressure washers: First is a gas power 3200 psi - amzn.to/3JiPosm Second one is a 2200 psi electric - amzn.to/3CzegZu (one I used in n the video)
You could just use regular sand since the sealant is already stick and sand will stick to it. With pavers there was nothing to adhere to so sand is more easily washed away.
Get a bag of salt from home depot/walmart/lowes for 5 dollars. Mix 1 cup water and 1 cup vinegar. Add 2/3 cup salt. Add 1/4 tablespoon dish soap. Put in spray bottle or sprayer and coat the weeds and dirt between the cracks. They will be gone for years. Never spray on plants you like or anywhere you want plants. Wait a few days and you are good to go.
The polymer sand, available in Lowes? Also the side walk, is it belong to city? Two side walk are uneven. Last year I called city to prune tree belong to city, they ignore it.if I CALL CITY to fix side walk, they ignore it too. Can I use the sand to make it even ? What else can I do? I am 70 years old.
You gotta watch out using the pressure washer in areas like that cuz you're actually making VOIDS under the driveway and garage floor leading to more problems. Thanks!
1. Remove weeds. 2. Mix dirt or sand into some old water based paint. 3. Pour into crack. This solution has lasted 9 years for me so far. Stopped Bermuda grass from adjacent yard.
Down in that crevice in front of your garage door that you cleaned out with the hook knife does the concrete stop somewhere or does it go all the way down to the ground to dirt if it goes all the way down to the dirt, then after you spray for those weeds, I would suggest you pour sand down in that crevice/expansion groove. I always tell people I don’t recommend using salt on concrete because it’ll eat it away faster than anything. Firsthand to that because in one year at away at my concrete port steps! There is another thing vinegar, soap and salt, but I wouldn’t use salt on concrete. Concrete is porous and that salt gets in there and destroys it. Why are road so bad in the north ? Salt! They use salt to melt the ice sometimes they mix the salt with the little sand. And it just eats the roads and comes spring, potholes, galore cracks galore just horrible horrible.👍 Now, if you’re using assault for like a gravel driveway and you re-gravel it every 10 years then who cares!
Why does everyone recommend using a backer rod? Can I just fill with dry cement instead then spraying water to harden then apply the caulk on top? A bag of cement is way more inexpensive.
I use roofing cement in the caulk tubes it was cheaper. I did this to my sidewalk and even a crack in the side walk. It used to be cheaper when it was 2 bux a tube.
If you're going to use Bacer rod you better make real good and sure it is smashed down into the crack, otherwise, it will float to the top. Also got some bad news for you. This only lasts for about a year or two. Any shift in the concrete will let the weeds grow back up
ITEMS I USED ON THIS VIDEO:
- Sikaflex Self Leveling Sealant (Gray) 29oz - amzn.to/42kH6XR
- Sikaflex Self Leveling Sealant (Gray) 10oz - amzn.to/3N9M84Y
- Polymeric Sand (Gray) - amzn.to/3MMha1x
- 3/4” Backer Rod - amzn.to/43GJKYS
- 1/2” Backer Rod - amzn.to/3quStyY
- 29 OZ Caulk Gun - amzn.to/3qdTwTV
- 10 OZ Dripless Caulk Gun - amzn.to/3qptUUn
- Hook Knife - amzn.to/3WOrNFv
- Spray Bottle - amzn.to/3IV9OYi
How much psi does that pressure washer of yours have in order to tear the weeds out? I'm looking for a pressure washer but I don't know what I should be looking for in terms of pressure. Thanks!
Get the chemical that's "Round Up" from your local agricultural center -- they sell to farmers and it's about 10 times (I'm guessing, but VERY} stronger than what you buy for homeowners.
Round Up causes cancer @@veramae4098
@@veramae4098
The round up product is very very harmful to your health don’t you know that ? it’s even banned in some countries,it causes cancer
The reason that you need to spray that special sand with water is to activate the chemicals mixed within it. If using a hose on a larger area, use the finest spray option to avoid washing away the sand from the opening.
Actually the backer rod serves 3 very important purposes
1 it gives the proper depth. As a general rule sealant should be 1/2 as deep as it is wide but not less than1/4” nor more than 1/2” deep
2 it prevents a 3 sided bond
3 it gives the proper profile sealant should be concave on the top and the bottom ) ( this allows it to stretch.)
Never put sand into wet sealant. It shortens its life substantially
Polymeric sand is a VERY bad idea in this type of joint. It doesn’t stretch enough to account for the movement. And it can also cause the concrete to crack because it only compresses minimally
I have been a professional caulker for over 40 years. When installed properly sealant should last a minimum of 20+ years
I am curious about "Never put sand into wet sealant." Is there any way to avoid that plastic look of the sealant? Would you say the same of pea gravel? (I have those ugly aggregate walkways.)
@@PR-rh9qm putting any kind of aggregate in the sealant compromises it’s ability to stretch and it will fail prematurely.
@genevarden… Question would you think it would be a good idea to use sand instead of backer rod then use the sikafkex on top?
Reason for using sand is that I have some sand bags that I don’t need and could use the sand as a filler
@@BigOsTaco it is never a good idea to use sand under sealant. It shortens the sealant’s lifespan significantly
You should always use backer rod. You can not get the proper sealant profile with sand. The proper profile is critical to the life of the sealant.
It is so critical that if I use anything but backer rod as filler the manufacturer warranty is void.
@@genecarden780 thanks Gene. Really appreciate it your feedback. Will definitely go with backarod and sikafkex. Have a great holiday weekend!
I have this problem. This was extremely well explained and demonstrated. Thank you.
Simple solution for cracks and gravel or rocks you put down is to boil water in your tea kettle (this boils water really fast due to construction of kettle). Next slowly pour from kettle on weeds and avoid feet. This will kill sprouts that have not come up yet too. The weeds are dead immediately and if really large you might need to hit a couple of days later. Then sweep after everything is dead and you can always remove the dirt with a hoe edge or something. So much simpler than poisons which might harm your pets or you.
Or insects needed in our gardens 🤷♀️
Those poisons, even IF (BIG if) they spare pets and kids WILL end up in the waterways and in the tap water. Big Chem industry is killing us and must be shut down if we humans want to have a fighting chance….
Don't so it in eaters you want to plant. It will kill good bacteria.
Great video! We had weeds and nutsedge growing in between all our driveway expansion joints. Fought them for years. Our driveway has 20 expansion joints. Wide for 3-car garage. We used the backer rod and Sika 2 years ago and haven't been disappointed. There are a couple of places were a weed might peek its little head, but that's b/c we didn't caulk that area properly. Wish we'd known about your sand overlay trick - that would have been perfect! Thanks for explaining everything so well. Much appreciated.
Use a small bottle with a small tip on it cut a opening big enough for the sand to spill through will make a precise cleaner job
When it comes to the world of weeds “never say NEVER”
Right.
Right
Used the 1. One self leveling it is awesome, but you have to be some handy. Saw it by my neighbor, but she let free spaces so weed grew again. Some times it leaves bubbles you have to go over again or fill slower the crack. After two years I saw one weed grow. So I am amazed and I saved a lot of time and did not get so dirty when I pressure wash. Thanks for the video.
An absolutely true statement!
im pretty sure he meant prolly never from where the exact spot of the weed was.
Sometimes, Ive used an old butter knife as a weed tool. Nice and thin.
Boiling hot water straight from the jug, poured hot straight away , can hold back weed growth for quite a while in a place like a crack, or around edges as its much better than poison. But never carry that boiling water around when children or animals are about. Carry it carefully, hot water inside a lidded jug. Its known to last about a season at least, hot water on the weeds, and do that when weeds are small is better. Also can use it on a small mould area on paver, testing this idea, ok so far it dried up the green mould growth in a shaded area on pavers outside. Best not to do it if been raining, do it when soil is drier.
Thank you so much for sharing Margaret! 🙏🏽😊
I've read that simple salt will work as well = salt the soil. No worries about burning anyone with boiling water. Probably lasts as long as it doesn't get diluted to a certain level.
Great video! I think it mainly depends on the size of the gap between the concrete. Backer rod and the caulk would work well with a bigger gap. Small gaps that sand material you use is very versatile and functional. I’m going to do this myself! Always great content!
Thank you so much for the feedback and the advice! 🙏🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse😊
I’ve had great success with a product called Sika.It is self leveling and the width of the gap is not very important.It is the depth of the separation,which can be controlled by filling to prescribed depth so the caulk can fully cure in a reasonable amount of time.Lowe’s,Home Depot,and Menards carry this compound in the large caulk tubes.I think they are about $15 a tube,and it is some tough stuff.
Have you ever considered using the stuff out of your 💩🕳?
Thank you...good tips! The most important reason for using backer rod with Sikaflex is as a bond breaker to take advantage of its elasticity. The backer rod allows the Sikaflex to bond to only two sides of the gap. If the Sikaflex is bonded to the bottom of crack and both sides, its elongation becomes zero and any movement will rupture it.
Actually it is only one of the 3 reasons to use backer rod the other 2 are depth control and proper profile. I have been a professional caulker fog more than 40 years. It’s not rocket science but if done right it should last 20-30 years
The reason is absolutely NOT to save material. The backer rod is ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY it’s 3 major functions are
1. Preventing a 3 sided bond
2proper depth control as a general rule sealant should be 1/2 as deep as it is wide. But not less tha 1/4” deep or more than 1/2” deep
3. It gives the sealant the proper profile .it should be concave and n both the top and the bottom . Like this ) (
I have been a professional caulker for more than 40 years. When installed properly sealant should last a minimum of 20 years
Where did you learn about the elongation aspect of a 3 sided bond?
We had polymeric sand between travertine slabs and it was awful. Moss grew in it and in removing the moss, the sand came out. It had to be re-done every year. We ended up replacing everything with bluestone and cement. I'd go with the backer and Sikaflex.
I was just watching another video where they were using that polymeric sand. Darn I was hoping to be able to use that because I don’t have anyone else to help me.
Usually if my back is not killing me, I sprinkle Casoron down into the cracks. It works for about six months of weed prevention.
What’s casoron?
@@elvinaraposo523 It's an herbicide.
I've used polymeric sand in the past as well, and it's a very temporary solution. What they don't mention is that though it dries hard, rain and water will loosen it again and can wash it away. And I've found that tough weeds can send roots through the dried polymeric sand and grow. Really the only thing it's good for is if you're trying to sell the house and need just a temporary cosmetic solution that'll last a few weeks so you can sell the house, then let the new owners deal with the problem after they move in.
Great video. I used polymeric sand in between my pavers four years ago, and a couple of nutsedge weeds made their way through it. Plus, you need to be careful when powerwashing at a later date to not aim the water there or it will be removed. For this application, I would use the backer rod.😊
I have pavers in my back yard around the pool with polymeric sand between them all. Weeds everywhere!!! It works fine for a couple years, but then you start getting weeds between the pavers. Don't use Polymeric for a permanent solution.
I have used the backer rope technique before but WANT TO TRY YOUR WONDERFUL IDEA ON THE POLYMER SAND. As long as it hardens where no grains come off, certainly easier and less time than doing the rope. Thanks sooo much for sharing!!
We had a "professional" install a patio and finished it with polymeric sand. Where he put the polymeric sand didn't last and he ran out of it, so asked me to buy more and finish the job. I was more particular in making sure the voids were filled and they have lasted better and resist power washing and weeds, to a greater extent. However, I'm not really happy with it and I'm gradually using a Cement mix to replace all the jointing. It's very easy to take out. We were told it would lock all the slabs, which were already laid on a Cement bed. But around a third of the patio has become unstable.
I will say it Ages to an okay colour, more sort of glassy grey. So it is pleasing to see. I liked your idea of using a vacuum. That's my method too, because weeds spread if you use a power washer to remove them. I guess it all depends where you are working. I like the applicator with the gun idea. Seen it a few times and may give it a go on another patio or path. Thanks for sharing.
Great tip! I needed to do this so bad, now I am encouraged to fix this issue with my gaps in my driveway 😅
I’m glad i could be of help! For some reason I find this project very therapeutic hehe, especially when using the polymeric sand 😅
Thank you. I've pressure washed, dug out, used dawn/vinegar, 30% vinegar(Home Depot), boiled water and round up weed/grass killer. The round up...two days later weeds are still thriving and then I have to dig the weeds up. Two to three weeks I'm weeding again. Thank you again for the helpful tips.
Have you tried salt?
Roundup is not instant kill, but can kill weeds down to the root.
I like the fact you didn't use herbicides or pesticides. I have used sika flex products in the past for remedial work. I was successful in fixing a leak to a building.. Of coarse with the help of the owner and elimination process.great video. Thankyou for uploading.
This is such a major problem in my pavers every year, Thanks this looks like a great DIY solution. Pavers looks so good when they first go in but, give weeds a year and they will try their best to mess things up.
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
Never had much luck with the Poly Sand... Always end up needing to redo my Bluestone walkway every couple of years. Even had "The pros" do it and yet again.. needs to be done yet again
I've used polymeric sand on my pavers. I have to dig out weeds and re-apply it every year. So, backer rod and caulk sounds like the better solution, for a garage.
We use vinegar, salt and detergent mix to kill the weeds but have to redo later… tried polymeric sand. Weeds grew through it 2 years later. Will try the first solution.
I use oscillating multi-tool and worn out blades for cutting, better and faster than hand tools. Those leveling compound could be pricey with a larger project, I had success with stucco/fiber mix. Not much expansion/contraction like the levering compounds but much cheaper, so far so good.
You never disappoint! Always relevant and process!!! Great job and thank you for what you do!
You must remove the weds completely roots and all then apply water softener salt to the cracks and any other field of weeds afrer ther removal ! Then apply water to dissolve the salt on the application area thre applications of salt one month apart for three months this will keep the weds from growing back forever ! No chemicals necessary ! FYI !
I put in a brick huge pstio on sand . The bricks are as ckose together as poss and probably less 1/16 of an inch of the base,sand showing between the bricks but i still get weeds esp spruge.
How can I use this glue like sand on a 32ft by 20ft patio without it sticking on the bricks?
I got a rubber gasket (different widths) that's flat on top and tapered on bottom with longitudinal groves. pound it level and seems to work pretty good. Your solutions also look good.
I did 19 pallets of pavers with polymeric sand and while it did turn out great and we love it, we still get weeks growing up from time to time. The problem is the ground moves and the polymeric sand does not. It sets hard and crumbles if there is movement in the pavers. And our concrete driveway also has many expansion joints and they all over over time. So I'm going with the Sika and wash sand on the top. Thanks for the video.
Paving by its very nature has to be flexible, to try to make it rigid is a complete waste of time. Depending on the type of pavers they would normally be bedded on a layer of 2" sharp washed sand that will be on a stone sub-base and then on completion a layer of the same sand but finer is vibro-compacted into the joints to get some friction between the pavers. The best way to keep the pavers weed free is to constantly drive over the whole area in use and remove the odd weed that manages to grow.
Came here for the weeds, got interested in the garage door seal at the bottom. I have tried 2 different products and neither worked well. Hoping you have a video on whatever you used.
I was just looking at some really embarrassing weeds in my driveway earlier today. Amazing how the algorithm knew I need to watch this video. In the past I've used a grinder to clean out cracks then an adhesion promoter then a quickrete crack filler that is probably the same material as the Sika flex. I've used that stuff before elsewhere just not in the concrete.
All hail the algorithm.
They are looking at our driveways with the satellites and recommending vids😂
What about when they used a long 2x4 board as a slab spacer- how to deal with a 2” gap?
When I saw the price of backer rod, I purchased a case of pool noodles at Walmart. Only .97
oodle. I then cut to the size I needed. I also did this for cabin walls before filling. Just a thought.
That’s an excellent alternative! Thank you for sharing 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
They deteriorate over time way faster than backer rod.
Great detailed video. D0 you have a video with the same proces between asphalt and sidewalk because this is the problem that I have. Secondly, the second problem is on the side edges of my dryway. Thank you
Thank you! Please stay tuned, I’ll have this covered next week 🙏🏽😊
Thank you for sharing this. Looks very nice! I definitely need to tackle ours.
Thanks!
Thank you so much for the love and support my friend!
Thanks, but I think there is a big difference between problems with a (laid brick) drive that has loads of joints over the whole surface, compared to one long gap in front of the garage door. Also I can't tell if your solution will continue to let water through it to avoid creating flooding at the bottom of the slope when it rains. Need more info to know if these solutions will help in my case.
Considering that climate change will confront us with extended periods of extreme weather, continuing to seal off our soils seems wildly irresponsible to me. Maybe it's time to accept that a little moss in the cracks doesn't really hurt anyone. Sealed soils and concrete wastelands that don't allow for water to naturally seep away will inevitably lead to sinking ground water levels and elevated risk of flooding.
Yes, they bothare very good solutions. As a constructive suggestion, I use vinnegar with cinnoan mixture. It works very well. Thank yo, much appreciate it.
Thank you so much brother for the advice! 🙏🏽😊
My neighbor would boil water in her teapot go to the driveway and pour on the cracks once a week in the spring,then once a month all summer. Nothing ever grew in her driveway.
I like that method best 😊
I pressure cleaned my pavers and now weeds are shooting between. Obviously i blew out the sand between. My question is once ive fixed the issue with method 2 how are you meant to clean pavers? Sealing with method 1 would seem a long term solution but that would be truck loads of sealant for my property.
Go
I tried the sealant and it worked great - I didn't do it for weeds but to fill in the gaps on my driveway. Question on the Polymeric Sand: over time, how would it compare to the sealant - would it expand/move with temperature? Thank you for the video, very helpful.
any tips for those of us who have asphalt driveways instead of concrete?
Thank you for sharing these great ideas. If my gaps are deep, can I use backer rods and top up with polymeric sand ?
Yes, absolutely
I have used a product similar to Sika flex in my basement and I have also used polymeric sand on my walkway. During the winter the frost heave lifted the middle of the walkway and broke the polymeric seal. I don't have weeds but the ants have gotten through. Kind of wondering if a flexible sealer might work better.
Polymeric sand will eventually crack due to slight shifts in the concrete. Sadly I have not seen it last more than about 2 years at best, so odds are you will still need to touch it up every once in a while
Yes and I use polymeric sand just now on a small pave pathway and it cost me $36 a bucket. For that small amount I’ll stick with that concrete seal. But I do have 1/4 bucket leftover so this is a win for me with polymeric sand method.
I noticed that garage door seal you have. What is that for?
Thank you Steven! Perfect to prevent rain or water from going inside the garage. Here is the video I made on it : m.ua-cam.com/video/3HIyqHOJ2Nk/v-deo.html&pp=ygUcUHJldmVudCB3YXRlciBnYXJhZ2UgZ2FyYWdlIA%3D%3D
Hello, I will try the Sikaflex self
Leveling sealant and polymeric sand-gray. Thank you!!
I have used Sika for yrs, but many cracks I have to cut it out and replace it…I ultimately see it separating. If you have any movement of the concrete along the seams, it fails faster. But I like it and continue to use it because I have yet to find anything better
Thanks for the input! Did you try to consider using my 2nd permanent solution I mentioned on the video?
@@FixThisHouse no I haven’t. Actually I have never seen it. Do you think it bonds better to the concrete? And how does the flexibility compare to Sika? And one more…if it does fail and separate, do you think removing it would be easier or more difficult to remove compared to Sika. Thanks!
@@mse1333 First time I heard of using poly sand. It's used between pavers, and my pavers have held up well, and pavers have more movement than solid concrete. To me, the self leveler looks fake and doesn't blend well even with sand, my opinion, my experience. Good luck~
I have removed the weeds and soil between the cuts in the concrete pathway. I am wondering if filling the gaps with expanding foam would be an option before sealing with a sealant. If I do this, I will let the expanding foam cure for a day or so, then cut away a channel from the top to fill it with a sealant. What do you think?
If you live on a slope using self leveling sika caulk is not the answer. You need to use a non sag type caulk to fill the downhill expansion cracks on your driveway. Sika is the bomb though. i have had Sika on my concrete driveway for at least 5 years. The bermuda grass is attempting to work it's way under the sealant now at the edges. Back to square one. Remove and and reinstall fresh sealant.
I agree! For slopes I suggest Tremco Volkem 45 SSL Caulk - amzn.to/3C82ogv
We always use SSL ( Semi Self Leveling) or MasterSeal SL slope grade.
An easier way instead of using a small shovel to put in the sand is to get a medium-sized plastic funnel and poor the sand into it. Then dragged the bottom part of the funnel along the channel. You may have to tap the photo on the bottom the event the sand gets clogged.
That’s a great idea! Thank you for sharing Louise! 🙏🏽😊
pour vs poor
@@vashon100 Spelling police 🚨
Thanks for sharing. Could you use polymeric sand on bigger gaps? I have this huge 2-3 inch gap between 2 concrete in one of my back yard that I want to seal.
Hi! I don’t see anything wrong with 2-4 inches. Anything they big though you might consider using a pool noodle filler.
Let me pull up my arm chair here...
As stated earlier, it isn't a good idea to have anything sitting in the sealant.
As far as using the poly sand, it is not always the best choice, but it can be used. However, you definitely need to use some sort of vibration machine on the sand in order to make sure that it has properly settled into the crack. Notice that when you hit it with the water, it sank/settled a bit. Also, you need to use a little more water on the first pass, because you don't want the top layer of the sand to be the only one that gets the water to make the poly(glue) activated. This will then allow the lower layers of sand to remain dry as a cap is then formed on top of the poly sand. Then over time the lower level of sand will settle more and then be easier for the rain to wash away.
Thank you so much for the meaningful comment! I have a 1 year follow up video update on this releasing tomorrow! Please stay tuned 👍🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse Awesome, I'll go watch it.
Do you worry about the concrete cracking in cold winter climates if the gaps are filled?
I bet he doesn't deal with freeze-thaw, but if that's the case one should stick with the caulk that flexes. (There's a reason why those gaps in pavement are called expansion joints.)
What do you guys think of polymeric sand? I think it washes away. It certainly did when I put it as the underlay and in between pavers
Very bad idea
@@genecarden780 Elaborate?
@@Tholiuson pavers the area of each paver is relatively small so thermal expansion is minimal. So on pavers polymeric sand is fine . But concrete slabs are much larger so thermal expansion/contraction can be significant the sand won’t tolerate this much movement and because sand doesn’t compress significantly,it can actually spawl the concrete in some instances.(not very common but can happen)
Having said that , the polymeric sand should not have washed away ( that’s kind of the point) did you wet it a few times so it would harden?
What about pouring salt into driveway crevices to kill weeds?
The tube basically acts as a tight barrier?
Hi there , what did you use on the bottom of your garage door? It looks like a black strip of rubber
Hi! It’s a garage door threshold seal. It prevents rain water from coming in. I made a video on the install, please check out my garage door playlist . Here is also the link for the seal : amzn.to/44dN9iO
Could you please tell me how to get rid of sedum from my lawn. This sedum is taking over my lawn. Thank you.
Salt, backer rod, Sikiflex, and dust it with sand so it blends with concrete finish.
What is on the floor of your garage meeting your door? It looks like a rubber seal, but what is it called. Great video. Also, what do you think about using a blower to remove the dirt from the joint after getting the weeds out?
Pressure from your washer looks powerful.. what pressure washer are you using?
Yes, what kind of pressure washer you have?
Hi! I have 2 pressure washers:
First is a gas power 3200 psi - amzn.to/3JiPosm
Second one is a 2200 psi electric - amzn.to/3CzegZu (one I used in n the video)
You could just use regular sand since the sealant is already stick and sand will stick to it.
With pavers there was nothing to adhere to so sand is more easily washed away.
How do I get weeds out of small refined without pulling them one at a time and I used all different kinds of sprays already
Hi! Please send me a picture. Here is my email. Fixthishouse1@yahoo.com I would be glad to help!
Thank you. Great tips. I'm a diy person. I appreciate your knowledge.
Did you use the backer rod under polymeric sand?
i;ve used polymeric sand with mixed results. may be best to try scenario 1.
Intuitively a couple of years back I filled the gaps with any sand I found in my garage. And it worked.
Get a bag of salt from home depot/walmart/lowes for 5 dollars. Mix 1 cup water and 1 cup vinegar. Add 2/3 cup salt. Add 1/4 tablespoon dish soap. Put in spray bottle or sprayer and coat the weeds and dirt between the cracks. They will be gone for years. Never spray on plants you like or anywhere you want plants. Wait a few days and you are good to go.
I just used A rapid repair cement, do you recommend this?
The polymer sand, available in Lowes? Also the side walk, is it belong to city? Two side walk are uneven. Last year I called city to prune tree belong to city, they ignore it.if I CALL CITY
to fix side walk, they ignore it too. Can I use the sand to make it even ? What else can I do? I am 70 years old.
What keeps the sand from washing away?
It’s formulated that after it gets wet it hardens 👍🏽😊
After pouring the concrete why don't they just fill in the cracks with more concrete?
Concrete joints are there to prevent cracks when the concrete settles and shrinks 👍🏽😊
You gotta watch out using the pressure washer in areas like that cuz you're actually making VOIDS under the driveway and garage floor leading to more problems. Thanks!
Do any of the methods expand and contract with weather changes? (Wisconsin cold, for instance).
Where would I buy the hook knife.
Hi! Here is the hook knife link : amzn.to/3P6E5XB
I don’t know which I’ll use brother, but I’ll use one of them. Thank you. Great post!!
Hi, what was the name of the tubing you put in under the seaka flex and the specific type of sand, please?
Ups, imsee the answer on the right. Thank you.😊
Great idea!!!! I hate spraying poison chemicals around especially having pets. This should do the trick. Thank you.
Thank you! Yea I agree! Save the 🐶 🐱! I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
Mix in salt with the sand. But I like the clean perfection he has, great video. Thanks.
I've tried everything.
This is definitely the way to go
Thank you Lee! 🙏🏽👍🏽😊
I used polymeric between paver stones and it didn't last all all. It was no match against the weeds growing back.
1. Remove weeds.
2. Mix dirt or sand into some old water based paint.
3. Pour into crack.
This solution has lasted 9 years for me so far. Stopped Bermuda grass from adjacent yard.
❤ your videos can it be done in Australia 🇦🇺. What is that sand called & can it be bought in Oz 🇦🇺 ?
does the sand wash out when jet washing ?
Thanks! I’ll do this! God bless!
Avoid picturing the backer rod when placing in the crack. It can cause the caulk to bubble.
how about pushing in a flexible tile "glue" with something like a plastic Bag? (the thing that is used to decorate cakes and stuff)
How are they holding up?
Down in that crevice in front of your garage door that you cleaned out with the hook knife does the concrete stop somewhere or does it go all the way down to the ground to dirt if it goes all the way down to the dirt, then after you spray for those weeds, I would suggest you pour sand down in that crevice/expansion groove.
I always tell people I don’t recommend using salt on concrete because it’ll eat it away faster than anything. Firsthand to that because in one year at away at my concrete port steps!
There is another thing vinegar, soap and salt, but I wouldn’t use salt on concrete. Concrete is porous and that salt gets in there and destroys it.
Why are road so bad in the north ? Salt! They use salt to melt the ice sometimes they mix the salt with the little sand. And it just eats the roads and comes spring, potholes, galore cracks galore just horrible horrible.👍
Now, if you’re using assault for like a gravel driveway and you re-gravel it every 10 years then who cares!
Great video! Helpful! 🙏🏽💛
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Why does everyone recommend using a backer rod? Can I just fill with dry cement instead then spraying water to harden then apply the caulk on top? A bag of cement is way more inexpensive.
Thank you! I have the tubes, but the sand will be my best friend. ❤
What about the weed in my from yard I have some trees and plants but I don't want weed randomly grown
what did you say at 6:50-6:53?
polymeric sand does not last long the extreme weather breaks it id try the sika flex though
I use roofing cement in the caulk tubes it was cheaper. I did this to my sidewalk and even a crack in the side walk. It used to be cheaper when it was 2 bux a tube.
That "Hook Knife " is actually called an linoleum knife. A screw driver works too. How does that polymeric sand stop weeds from growing?
How to use mulch glue
If you're going to use Bacer rod you better make real good and sure it is smashed down into the crack, otherwise, it will float to the top. Also got some bad news for you. This only lasts for about a year or two. Any shift in the concrete will let the weeds grow back up
Interesting. Be curious how this would effect frost heaving. May try this on my old ass sidewalk that's already uneven.
If the process seals against water (and the sealant should) no moisture gets into the joint and therefore no frost heave.
Does it comes in black color?
Yes they do! Here’s the link to the black sealant : amzn.to/3MOgKHW
The manufacturer makes it in 4 colors gray, white, black and dark amber but you have to check your local site to see what they carry.