Senior…. Thanks to you and this video. I was stuck in Amarillo this morning 800 miles from home. Had already changed battery out as it was going bad. Wouldn’t start. Reset the relay and voila it turned over. Just finished a 13 hour drive home safe thanks to you. Well done sir.
This is the first time I’ve been impressed enough about a video to leave a comment saying as much, every second had value, you didn’t waste one second of my time being cute, very Germanic , keep it up and thank you very much.
After about 6 hours of head scratching mine wound up being the shift control lever needing to be moved around. I have been a shade tree mechanic for well over 50 years and I would have never got to the bottom of this without the help of your video. I cannot thank you enough.
Excellent video! Our coach is a 2013 Tiffin Open Road. We have replaced two starters and are in the process of probably buying another starter to have onboard in case we get to the point where the starter will not start even after sitting overnight. I will check with NAPA today and purchase the shield. I wondered how a shield could be fitted on and what I just saw on your video shows how it can be done. This looks to simple to work but it sure will be the bomb if it works! Thanks again! Tony
I feel really stupid for this. But i made it to the 2nd step and my shit fired up. Worked on it for 8 hours after a complete restoration and had this issue. Thank you for a helpful video.
After changing my starter. Starter solenoid. And starters relay switch. I finally came to UA-cam and put my truck in park and it started. Thanks sticky gear shifter 🥴 hopefully my comment can help someone else. Cheers v10 lovers
Thanks for the really informative video. My problem is in a Winnebago Sightseer (Class A). Just returned from 7 weeks Pacific Northwest - very high humidity, everything feels damp. While in the damp, the no crank problem was intermittent, but I could count on it happening every day under variety of conditions: cold start in the morning, restart having driven for several hours, restart after running at idle for couple of minutes. I have done all of the steps you suggest, except crossing the terminals on the starter solenoid. Now that I am back in Reno, Nevada (DRY), the no crank situation is infrequent….so infrequent that it would be difficult to show it to a mechanic. When I get the no start and then hold the ignition key in the start position for 30 seconds to 1 minute, the starter will crank normally. After this, when I shut it off and restart, the starter generally cranks normally immediately when the key is advanced to the start position. Another thing I have noticed with this situation….. I have a Victron Battery Monitor that monitors both coach and chassis batteries and I can watch them with my iPhone while I start the coach. When I engage the ignition (before turning to start position), there is about a 20 amp draw from the coach batteries and a noticeable increase in the chassis battery voltage - from 12.7v to 13.5v. This happens even though I have NOT engaged the battery booster switch. My intuition tells me that this should not happen unless I engage the battery booster. I wish I had done this monitoring before I started experiencing the no crank situation. I’d appreciate any thoughts you might have, especially with the power shifts that I have observed with the Victron Monitor.
Possibly the draw on the chassis battery is the daytime headlights. Disconnect the bulbs and see if that is it. I switched to LED headlights (see other video). It also sounds like your latching relay is engaging automatically. Before tracking that down I would check the chassis battery cables. Most likely there is an inline fuse (a big one) that is probably located on the frame rail below the battery. There might be corrosion that needs cleaned up. Also check the ground to the frame, it also might need cleaned up. I would also swap the starting relay with a different on (see video) as yours might be going out. Are you sure the chassis battery is good? I would do a load test on it, or try another battery if you have one. Many times the volts will be good, but not enough amps will flow.
What a coincidence.. family is sitting here about a thousand miles from home… sitting at a gas pump in the middle of Wyoming because our rv isnt starting
Can you replace just the solenoid? Or even better replace or clean the contacts in the solenoid? It looks like two screws and one cable to remove. I had a 1985 Toyota Supra with a clicking solenoid and no crank. The contacts in the solenoid were worn flat. Cost me 4$ to replace.
i got a 2000 limited excursion that will crank fine one minute then won't the next. its not the key or pc i dont think because the theft light isn't flashing faster than normal and the shifter is plenty tight. i usually can wait a day and it will crank. i went to the taco bell no problem last night and when i cut it off i tried to restart it and it acted like there was no power getting to the starter. got in it first thing this morning and it cranked no problem then i shut it down and tried to restart and again no power to the starter. any suggestion on what it can be sir?
Okay I did all that replaced the starter still the same as if I didn't even put in a new starter...i heard a bunch of relays clicking my fuse box looks nothing like yours..i have 2001 Ford excursion v10 gas.4x4... my son had the keys out of ignition and some how the starter was grinding it's teeth away against the fly wheel...please help..
I have this issue but it only happens when it's cold out (< 60 deg. F). Kept turning the ignition switch on and off, and it finally started. Changed the starter solenoid on the passenger fender well and it worked, until today when it's somewhat cold out again. Any suggestions?
Was it a no crank situation? If so, I would replace the relay shown in the video. If it cranks but does not start, I would cycle the key 2 or 3 times before trying to start. Pause a couple seconds between cycle. This lets the fuel pump pressurize the line. If that solves it you either need a fuel pump or your injectors are leaking. Try some injector cleaning for a few tanks and it may solve it… cheaper than a fuel pump.
@swalesutube it was a no crank/starter turn over issue. I recently replaced the starter solenoid, cleaned all of the ground connections and the starter connections in addition to the start relay. Hopefully this will be the fix. I'll see when it gets cold again. The only thing left is the start switch and the starter itself.
I have the same problem with my class A. I have gone through the steps and no fix. I want to know if e everything in the cockpit should be dead? I have nothing lights, dash, mirrors or levelers. Absolutely no sounds when I turn the key. If this is possible then I will replace the starter and solenoid. Just amazed there is still no noise.
No, you should have power to dash. Did you turn on your entry switches (main and aux) near the door? Does your battery (engine) have power? Have you checked fuses?
You got a different problem. I would check the main battery cables to make sure the are good. Also there is a large 250amp or larger fuse on the rail below the battery. It may have blown. Just trace the battery cable to find it.
I have tried for 10 min to open my power distribution box. Now it is pouring rain. I hope that is my issue. I dont think it is starter because i have no power to dash lights either
I put a new battery in my class A v10 after sitting for a year. It cranked right up but a week later it only clicks and doesn’t start. It’s now up my driveway and not possible to tow out so I’ll have to work on it myself. Any other ideas?
I have a blown 30 amp fuse at the location 22 ,I think it's the 8th fuse in the second row ..I don't know what that dude controls ,is Thier a wiring diagram
@@swalesutube its not on the cover the covers says to check owners manual,but I got it the on line owners manual,it was for the dlc and the cig lighter,thanks for responding,
@@swalesutube interesting, i wonder why, my has the solenoid under front passenger, i am in a no crank situation, and i can turn over from solenoid or at the starter, but can get nothing at the key, I do hear the relay clicking, will be working on it more today, thanks for response
Ive got the same issue with heat sink on an "oem" replacement. After pulling a trailer 200 miles, I'm stranded for 20 minutes, then it starts right up. Gonna take an old reflective windshield sun screen, cut it down and wrap the starter with it to get a heat barrier. We'll see if this works. Good video.
i got a 2000 limited excursion that will crank fine one minute then won't the next. its not the key or pc i dont think because the theft light isn't flashing faster than normal and the shifter is plenty tight. i usually can wait a day and it will crank. i went to the taco bell no problem last night and when i cut it off i tried to restart it and it acted like there was no power getting to the starter. got in it first thing this morning and it cranked no problem then i shut it down and tried to restart and again no power to the starter. any suggestion on what it can be sir?
Senior…. Thanks to you and this video. I was stuck in Amarillo this morning 800 miles from home. Had already changed battery out as it was going bad. Wouldn’t start. Reset the relay and voila it turned over. Just finished a 13 hour drive home safe thanks to you. Well done sir.
Story sounded familiar, brought back nightmares :). Glad it helped you figure it out… safe travels!
How do you reset the relay?
This is the first time I’ve been impressed enough about a video to leave a comment saying as much, every second had value, you didn’t waste one second of my time being cute, very Germanic , keep it up and thank you very much.
Appreciate the feedback.. hope the video helped!
You are the absolute man. It was my starter relay. Quick swap with the AC relay and I'm on the Rd..
Thanks. Glad it helped you get back on the road… safe travels.
After about 6 hours of head scratching mine wound up being the shift control lever needing to be moved around. I have been a shade tree mechanic for well over 50 years and I would have never got to the bottom of this without the help of your video. I cannot thank you enough.
Glad it helped!
This has been the best video I’ve seen after 4 days of binge watching.
Great Video I tried 2nd step again an it worked this time!!! Next step was going to buy a starter which would’ve sucked!!! Great video!!!
Excellent video! Our coach is a 2013 Tiffin Open Road. We have replaced two starters and are in the process of probably buying another starter to have onboard in case we get to the point where the starter will not start even after sitting overnight. I will check with NAPA today and purchase the shield. I wondered how a shield could be fitted on and what I just saw on your video shows how it can be done. This looks to simple to work but it sure will be the bomb if it works! Thanks again!
Tony
Bonus to buying NAPA starter is they warranty for life… at least they did in my case. The sock has been working. No more issues.
I feel really stupid for this. But i made it to the 2nd step and my shit fired up. Worked on it for 8 hours after a complete restoration and had this issue. Thank you for a helpful video.
Nice breakdown of all the details.
I appreciate your guidance. Replaced our starter, and we are go to go now. Thank you
Glad it helped
The neutral thing worked! Thank you!!!!!
Awesome man! So thorough! Thank you so much. God bless 🙏🏽
Thanks for the feedback!
@@swalesutube a QQQQQqqqQaa!
After changing my starter. Starter solenoid. And starters relay switch. I finally came to UA-cam and put my truck in park and it started. Thanks sticky gear shifter 🥴 hopefully my comment can help someone else. Cheers v10 lovers
Awesome explanation videos. Thank you. You got new subscriber.
Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for the really informative video. My problem is in a Winnebago Sightseer (Class A). Just returned from 7 weeks Pacific Northwest - very high humidity, everything feels damp. While in the damp, the no crank problem was intermittent, but I could count on it happening every day under variety of conditions: cold start in the morning, restart having driven for several hours, restart after running at idle for couple of minutes. I have done all of the steps you suggest, except crossing the terminals on the starter solenoid.
Now that I am back in Reno, Nevada (DRY), the no crank situation is infrequent….so infrequent that it would be difficult to show it to a mechanic. When I get the no start and then hold the ignition key in the start position for 30 seconds to 1 minute, the starter will crank normally. After this, when I shut it off and restart, the starter generally cranks normally immediately when the key is advanced to the start position.
Another thing I have noticed with this situation….. I have a Victron Battery Monitor that monitors both coach and chassis batteries and I can watch them with my iPhone while I start the coach. When I engage the ignition (before turning to start position), there is about a 20 amp draw from the coach batteries and a noticeable increase in the chassis battery voltage - from 12.7v to 13.5v. This happens even though I have NOT engaged the battery booster switch. My intuition tells me that this should not happen unless I engage the battery booster. I wish I had done this monitoring before I started experiencing the no crank situation.
I’d appreciate any thoughts you might have, especially with the power shifts that I have observed with the Victron Monitor.
Possibly the draw on the chassis battery is the daytime headlights. Disconnect the bulbs and see if that is it. I switched to LED headlights (see other video). It also sounds like your latching relay is engaging automatically. Before tracking that down I would check the chassis battery cables. Most likely there is an inline fuse (a big one) that is probably located on the frame rail below the battery. There might be corrosion that needs cleaned up. Also check the ground to the frame, it also might need cleaned up. I would also swap the starting relay with a different on (see video) as yours might be going out. Are you sure the chassis battery is good? I would do a load test on it, or try another battery if you have one. Many times the volts will be good, but not enough amps will flow.
Very good advice thank you Ed Suncity az
Awesome thanks sir this video helped me out today...
My problem was the safety switch. I move through the gears and then it started. Muchas gracias.
Thank you! Very informative and helped me out a lot
What a coincidence.. family is sitting here about a thousand miles from home… sitting at a gas pump in the middle of Wyoming because our rv isnt starting
Hope the video has a solution… let us know what it turns out to be.
No crank no start but could hear something engage in the engine bay. I pressed on the relay on she started right up
Can you replace just the solenoid? Or even better replace or clean the contacts in the solenoid? It looks like two screws and one cable to remove. I had a 1985 Toyota Supra with a clicking solenoid and no crank. The contacts in the solenoid were worn flat. Cost me 4$ to replace.
Real good job of explaining. A little more volume would really help.
i got a 2000 limited excursion that will crank fine one minute then
won't the next. its not the key or pc i dont think because the theft
light isn't flashing faster than normal and the shifter is plenty tight.
i usually can wait a day and it will crank. i went to the taco bell no
problem last night and when i cut it off i tried to restart it and it
acted like there was no power getting to the starter. got in it first
thing this morning and it cranked no problem then i shut it down and
tried to restart and again no power to the starter. any suggestion on
what it can be sir?
Okay I did all that replaced the starter still the same as if I didn't even put in a new starter...i heard a bunch of relays clicking my fuse box looks nothing like yours..i have 2001 Ford excursion v10 gas.4x4... my son had the keys out of ignition and some how the starter was grinding it's teeth away against the fly wheel...please help..
There is also a starter motor solenoid on the passenger side of the coach under the wheel well that sends power to t he starter motor solenoid
I looked under mine and could not locate it anywhere. I traced all wires, it just wasn’t there.
You MAY be confusing the battery isolator switch. They look like a remote solenoid used in the older FOMOCO products
I have this issue but it only happens when it's cold out (< 60 deg. F). Kept turning the ignition switch on and off, and it finally started. Changed the starter solenoid on the passenger fender well and it worked, until today when it's somewhat cold out again. Any suggestions?
Was it a no crank situation? If so, I would replace the relay shown in the video. If it cranks but does not start, I would cycle the key 2 or 3 times before trying to start. Pause a couple seconds between cycle. This lets the fuel pump pressurize the line. If that solves it you either need a fuel pump or your injectors are leaking. Try some injector cleaning for a few tanks and it may solve it… cheaper than a fuel pump.
@swalesutube it was a no crank/starter turn over issue. I recently replaced the starter solenoid, cleaned all of the ground connections and the starter connections in addition to the start relay. Hopefully this will be the fix. I'll see when it gets cold again. The only thing left is the start switch and the starter itself.
I have the same problem with my class A. I have gone through the steps and no fix. I want to know if e everything in the cockpit should be dead? I have nothing lights, dash, mirrors or levelers. Absolutely no sounds when I turn the key. If this is possible then I will replace the starter and solenoid. Just amazed there is still no noise.
No, you should have power to dash. Did you turn on your entry switches (main and aux) near the door? Does your battery (engine) have power? Have you checked fuses?
@@swalesutube Entry switches are on - Took battery to have tested, its ok - I have checked all the fuses and all the 5 steps. Any other suggestions?
You got a different problem. I would check the main battery cables to make sure the are good. Also there is a large 250amp or larger fuse on the rail below the battery. It may have blown. Just trace the battery cable to find it.
I have tried for 10 min to open my power distribution box. Now it is pouring rain. I hope that is my issue. I dont think it is starter because i have no power to dash lights either
If you have no power anywhere I would look n the frame rail underneath the battery. There is a fuse on the main power cable that might have blown.
I put a new battery in my class A v10 after sitting for a year. It cranked right up but a week later it only clicks and doesn’t start. It’s now up my driveway and not possible to tow out so I’ll have to work on it myself. Any other ideas?
Sounds like low voltage. It only takes a few days to run down battery if you leave your Main/Aux switches on. Charge battery and try again.
thanks for help I have tried to get manuals etc. to no avail under 94.00....Dealer os course will no help.......
What manuals are you needing?
@@swalesutube v10 triton rv class a service and repair
I have a blown 30 amp fuse at the location 22 ,I think it's the 8th fuse in the second row ..I don't know what that dude controls ,is Thier a wiring diagram
Look at cover you opened, it should say. If not it is in the owners manual of the chassis. What year and model you got?
@@swalesutube its not on the cover the covers says to check owners manual,but I got it the on line owners manual,it was for the dlc and the cig lighter,thanks for responding,
@@swalesutube it was a 1999 Ford Fleetwood bounder
Did you have an auxillary dash switch to engage house batteries to crank?
Yes
i tried to edit in "v-10" and it keeps reposting. wtf? lol
you left the solenoid under passenger front fender out of the equation
Left out.. yes... but my RV does not have that solenoid. Some do.. some don't.
@@swalesutube interesting, i wonder why, my has the solenoid under front passenger, i am in a no crank situation, and i can turn over from solenoid or at the starter, but can get nothing at the key, I do hear the relay clicking, will be working on it more today, thanks for response
oh and great videos, it has been helpful even 3 years later
0
Ive got the same issue with heat sink on an "oem" replacement. After pulling a trailer 200 miles, I'm stranded for 20 minutes, then it starts right up. Gonna take an old reflective windshield sun screen, cut it down and wrap the starter with it to get a heat barrier. We'll see if this works. Good video.
Not sure if that will melt or not.
i got a 2000 limited excursion that will crank fine one minute then
won't the next. its not the key or pc i dont think because the theft
light isn't flashing faster than normal and the shifter is plenty tight.
i usually can wait a day and it will crank. i went to the taco bell no
problem last night and when i cut it off i tried to restart it and it
acted like there was no power getting to the starter. got in it first
thing this morning and it cranked no problem then i shut it down and
tried to restart and again no power to the starter. any suggestion on
what it can be sir?
i tried to edit in "v-10" and it keeps reposting. wtf? lol