Відео

Wish I could have done that, but the grommet on mine was part of the wire. I had to remove the wire to cut it off to reuse.

Thanks for the feedback. Glad it helped... sometimes its the simplest things.

@@georgenettlesjr1466 thanks

Yes mine would spark, but fail because no gas was flowing thru solenoid. I believe you can put a magnet on the top of your solenoid to get it to open and flow gas... since that's tall the solenoid does. Ok for testing, but don't keep it that way for safety. First I would check the wires going to the solenoid and make sure there is voltage on them when you turn on fridge. If no voltage the solenoid will not work. The voltage only happens until the board trips because it doesn't sense a flame... about 5 to 10 seconds... so you will need a helper to turn on fridge from inside why you test for voltage. Also check this URL for good tips.: www.camperupgrade.com/dometic-refrigerator-igniter-not-working/

The shallower side goes down. The video refers to this. I shimmed the new one to be at the same center that the OEM was so the angles would match.

@@KevinModz65 I see they have a 9500lb on their website… for $299

Try cleaning the motor before discarding it. The motor in the video started to not fully extend this year. I took it apart and cleaned the brushes, it now works good as new.

Thanks for the feedback!

You should be fine with starting the generator on a lithium. Your only challenge will be if you want to use the start on battery voltage option. You will need to determine when your voltage starts to drop on low state of charge. This is narrower than with a flooded/AGM battery. Hopefully you have a shunt that will show you the state of charge. This will help you figure that voltage out.

@@arthemmingson2439 I showed a close up of the PMW controller. There are many on EBAY matching the specs I mentioned. Vendors come and go, so a link would already be gone. As far as a fan, measure the space you have and get the largest that fit in that space as it will move more air than a smaller fan.

I don’t think the product is a failure… just a work in progress. A couple software improvements and it will be even better.

Thanks. Glad it helped you get back on the road… safe travels.

I have never seen one that winds from the top. All mine wind from bottom. I think the key is what is in line with the fair lead. I also verified my Warn winch and it winds in from bottom. I would unspool yours and check what the drum says to confirm yours is correct. It should have an indication on the drum.

Most winches wind from the bottom. www.google.com/search?q=prioer%20winch%20winding%20top%20or%20bottom&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1-m

It says right on the top of the winch that's how it's supposed to wind in inflammation Mark every winch I've ever had has went that way

Almost common sense you can look at the winch until it doesn't wind in from the top! If that was the case the Pharaoh would be way up top😂

Story sounded familiar, brought back nightmares :). Glad it helped you figure it out… safe travels!

How do you reset the relay?

Possibly the PMW cannot deliver the amps needed to start the fan.

Would be terrible for heat. Most of the heat comes from under the dash area because that’s where the radiator blow it.., and the hoses run under the floor. Plus, where does it get the fresh air? You would just be blowing dust and heat around. You MUST get fresh air from above the fan if you want it to work properly. Make sure to get the LARGEST fan you can fit, so you can run it slower rpm and the noise it not bad.

Intake boots were fine. Most likely the previous owner did not take care of air filter and oil changes. DO NOT hone the cylinder as it has a coating that honing will destroy. Sounds like you should be doing a FULL rebuild since you destroyed a piston. I suspect there is a lot more wrong. I ended up doing a FULL rebuild and glad I did. I found a bad bearing on balance shaft and a stretched oil pump chain (see other video) which would have grenaded the engine. I checked the Polaris spec for ring gap, and the Wiseco ring gap specs. I used the Weisco spec…. Since it was their pistons and rings. The 900 burns oil for 2 main reasons. The rings and the intake valve guides. Your old rings will be very worn with a huge gap. That’s the source for most of the oil usage. The valve guides add to it. I tried valve seals first, but it made little difference. When I saw the ring gap it was obvious. Also when I had the valve guides done they showed me my valves. The edges were sharp as a knife. This means they are worn out. So I had those replaces and went ahead and did the springs as well, so a full rebuild on head. I think the engine had less than 3500 miles on it when I got it. So you can have major oil burning in a short time. I now have over 4000 miles on rebuild and everything is working fine. I credit that to the air system (see other video). I no longer get any dust in the engine, and it runs cooler as well as belt is cooler.

@@swalesutubeyou can hone plated cylinders in fact you need to hone them if the cross hatch is worn away which mine were on one side.You just have to use the right hone which I have. I’m trying to do this in frame and it is a huge pain. Wishing I’d have just bought a reman and the R&R’d it but here we are. The intake boots were/are famous for sucking in dirt and taking out the rings. That’s why Polaris has updated the boots twice now. (Mine is a 2015 model year). What happens is people don’t maintain them and change the air filters then the engine has to suck air somewhere so the intake boots are the path of least resistance. In my case it actually leaned the mixture out enough to melt the exhaust side of the piston away. Slightly damaged the surface in the exhaust valves so I replaced those. The oil looked really clean. It’s not mind it’s my neighbours and he never checked the air filter in 3200 miles. Hard to believe people spend that much on a new machine then run it until failure.

Yes, I am aware of the “right hone”, but it doesn’t take much to burn thru. When I checked my cylinder there were a few areas that were already burn thru… before honing. All things considered I would just replace the cylinder as it is cheap compared to all the components you have to replace if you are wrong. Head bolts, gaskets, etc add up to enough cost to just replace the cylinder.

Thanks for the feedback!

That might work. I wish the lithium batteries or shunts would have an output that would mimic what a flooded battery voltage would be. So if Lithium is at 50% it would report 12.1 volts over a special output wire. This would eliminate a lot of problems when using many accessories. It seems like a simple function they could incorporate. It would help the built in battery monitors in most coaches read accurately when switching the Lithiums. It would help this gen start with the start on voltage feature.

Glad it helped.

I hope to get with Onan R&D to discuss my recommendations. The unit is still usable once you understand how it works, that’s why I did the video. I was mainly concerned with temperature control as I have solar to keep batteries charged. A few software tweaks and this could be a solid system.

I had a similar problem. I ended up unplugging all connections in the control panel behind the fridge and plugging them back in. Surprisingly that worked. My plan was just to test the thermister (ohms test), and it tested ok. I figured I would check all the plugs connections while in there. There must have been a bad connection because mine has now been working for over a year. Give it a try.

Maybe on the next rebuild. Many have used this method… see comments. It works, but you will probably discover a full rebuild is in order. That’s what happened in my case. Found a bad bearing and chains were stretched.

Honestly don’t remember. It was whatever fit the thickness of the frame. It was laminated glass… always use that for safety.

It works on boats too!

Its wired backwards. they are push pull fans depending on the way you wire it.

Can you flip the fan over? You might need longer bolts, or make a bracket.

Thanks for the feedback, hope your windshield turn out great!

Was it a no crank situation? If so, I would replace the relay shown in the video. If it cranks but does not start, I would cycle the key 2 or 3 times before trying to start. Pause a couple seconds between cycle. This lets the fuel pump pressurize the line. If that solves it you either need a fuel pump or your injectors are leaking. Try some injector cleaning for a few tanks and it may solve it… cheaper than a fuel pump.

@swalesutube it was a no crank/starter turn over issue. I recently replaced the starter solenoid, cleaned all of the ground connections and the starter connections in addition to the start relay. Hopefully this will be the fix. I'll see when it gets cold again. The only thing left is the start switch and the starter itself.

​@@JohnSims3Did you have any more problems after replacing the starter solenoid? My Dad's truck does the same once it starts getting cold outside.

@@Griffin711 It wasn't the starter solenoid! It was the darn starter switch under the column! The pin was barely touching the contacts and when it got cold, the contraction caused it to not make contact. I wallowed out the mounting holes in an oblong shape to be able to mount the switch closer to the stop and it worked perfect. No problems since even when freezing.

@@swalesutube It wasn't the starter solenoid! It was the darn starter switch under the column! The pin was barely touching the contacts and when it got cold, the contraction caused it to not make contact. I wallowed out the mounting holes in an oblong shape to be able to mount the switch closer to the stop and it worked perfect. No problems since even when freezing.

Make sure to check the ring gap first. I had to properly gap mine. Use lots of oil on cylinder and rings and work slow. Let us know how it goes.

Thanks!

Best upgrade I have ever made! It keeps the cab cool and helps keep the dust out.

Has the fan in the controller held up or have you had to replace them?

Both have been fine. The only issue I had was the on/off switch needed to be replaced. I think dust got in there. So I replaced with a sealed switch.