Pontiac Sunfire 01 w 2.2l timing chain install pt.2
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- Опубліковано 7 сер 2016
- Description: pt.2 01 Pontiac Sunfire 2.2l timing chain install, involves established procedures for preparation and final torque specs for completion of the timing chain replace. An option to reduce the risk of an oil leak between the oil pan and timing cover is to lay a strip of 1/16" think cork 1" wide along the curved part of the oil pan opening, just short of where oil pan ends level with the engine block. coated with silicone. And press timing cover down to meet dowel pins in block. This action will act like a leak proof packing between the cover and pan.
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That front cover is the only clean part on that car.🤣🤣Nice work !!!!
Thanks for watching
Nice video , well explained , getting ready to do my 03 S10 2.2 this weekend , thanks great post👍👍🏁
Michael Proulx. Thanks for watching.
you did an excellent job of show and tell. , very descriptive and best video on this motor.excellent.
Thanks for watching.
Very Very Good Video THANK YOU, I replaced one 3 years ago now Iam Replacing one on anther Sunfire, you have some Good STEPS / METHOD,
Awesome explained video, detail perfection. Thanks
Thanks for watching
Very, very informative, great detail .......... thanks for sharing !!!!
Thanks for watching
Tighten cover bolts first...then the 2 oil pan bolts after the front cover is fully seated/ torqued.
I usually rotate the engine a couple times to make sure it lines up correctly.
Perfect video, no BS. Thanks
Thanks for watching
I'm trying to find if you're supposed to put any silicone on the timing cover gasket...but it was already stuck in there so you didn't show that. I guess the rubber gasket does the job w/out? It didn't appear any was on the old original one. I've got my pan off so I guess all the silicone can be done at the time I put it on?
Good job looks time consuming? Great video thanks for posting
Great video ! Thanks Brother !
Thanks for watching
I hope I bought the timing kit that eliminates the need for the guide/tensioner plate
Good man you are as savy as i am and great to post this stuff it will help many save money and still have good sealing all around.
No you're a good man who is extremely complimentary of himself as am I. Great comment on a great post. I'd like to say for the record that you sir are I think a lot like me and everyday we just piss excellence and sweat greatness. Us three could be the brothers called F.I.G.J.A.M....
I'm wondering about the crank marks and TDC. Does it being lined up means it's good? Or do I need to make sure it's at TDC?
If the chain is broken, the crank should be moved off of TDC about 1/2" down cylinder, while rotating the old cam shaft sprocket timing mark hole, and approximate aligning it with the timing mark tab on the tensioner bracket, before removing sprocket. This is to allow for valve clearance while rotating, with an unlatched chain. Other than that, TDC is irrelevant, as long as timing marks are in alignment with tabs on tensioner bracket. If it were a v-8, it would be a different matter. Thanks for watching
Will you answer a ? for me...does #1 have to be TDC, when aligning timing marks on the sprockets? I don't "get it" when a description of this install sez "no"😁
Tanks!
yes
Hi. I have a 97 Cavalier 2.2L. Is this similar to changing the timing chain on my 97 as far as body clearance and other obstacles and the same engine characteristics? Thanks a bunch.
I believe so
I found a timing set that was designed to eliminate the tensioner. Is this a good alternative to a stock setup? It seems the stock setup (chain with tensioner) isn't that good of a design. I don't recall the manufacturer but they are a reputable company that makes stock parts for new cars and replacement parts for older vehicles.
I haven`t used that set on anything yet to say how well it works. But the oem stuff on these typically lasted over 150k miles, near 200k if oil maintained. At the very least, always use a GM chain tension/guide plate. Non oem can bend and get into the chain, breaking the chain.
This set I'm referring to doesn't use the guide plate or tensioner. It's been designed to eliminate that. I guess I will do some searching online to try to find something. Thanks.
he mat if the Timing Chain Tensioner is broke will that cause the car to have no power and made the timing went off
It can.
What size is the socket
i am looking at a 02 pontaic sunfire , body is in amazing shape car has 74,000 miles on it , he says it wont start and "He" thinks it needs a timing chain? how can i test this to know if that is actually the problem? thank you
Normally a compression test, would be quite revealing. But the chain in those wont go bad until well past 150k. If used high mileage engine was installed, mabe it would be bad. Check for coolant in oil, mabe was over heated, cracked head. Also, if it set with old gas in it for at least 2 years, the gas becomes thick, and can hang valves guides. Bending them or the pushrods. I could go on and on. But taking the rocker arm cover off of the head (with coil pwr unplugged) and watching the valves/rockers operate would be an option. If equipt with a cam sensor, scan tool would reveal a cam/crank correlation error, if chain was out of time. Thanks for watching.
im not sure if my balancer is all the way in,how far in is all the way please
Looks like the back edge of balancer pulley is about 7-8 mm's from timing cover, when its seated. Measured at 10 'o clock looking at pulley
Did you need a pulled to remove crank sprocket?
yes
@@AutoDrdiy if you can't get a puller on the sprocket roll engine keyway straight up if you have an air chisel gun find a chisel that will fit between the sprocket gear at the keyway energize the air chisel the gear will break and slide right off I did that today
I would like to point this out 2.2 engine is non interference when you break the chain the valves will not hit the piston
At 5:03 you will see a plug that goes in the oil Channel fix for this to keep the chain tensioner lubricating the that I bought yesterday from O'Reilly Auto Parts has a plug with a hole drilled in it that will lubricate the tensioner you can screw a bolt in the plug when you wiggle it back and forth and get it out tap in the new plug it's not hard you need to replace this plug you can drill a hole in it about an eighth inch I think if you don't know where that plug is ask somebody
Remember this on the bottom of the cover there's two studs you have to remove them what's a star socket or put two nuts on the stud tighten them together and go easy on it if it doesn't turn out you're going to have to beat the cover up by the stud preferably with a heat gun you can use a propane torch on it but easy does it I got one out this way I had to use heated up and use vise grips on the other one went to a parts store and bought two new studs make sure the studs are identical the one I bought was wider in the center I had to put a spacer between the cover and the nut I got a 3/8 nut put it in the vice drilled it out so would slide over the stud that worked have fun it might be easier to leave the studs out put bolts in the cover yours might not have two studs on the bottom mine did
Is it the same as 2000 Chevy cavalier 2.2l
D Y. Other than some engine mount positions, yes.
Auto Dr diy ok thanks you have a new sub
in the video your timing marks are not lined up.
Everything was aligned properly
From what I have read there is a replaceable plug (similar to a freeze plug) near the cam sprocket. This plug needs to have a ~3mm hole in the center to allow oil to be sprayed on the assembly. If it's not there it needs to be drilled in the replacment.
You did not cover this at all.
This chain set had like, 90k miles on it, and served its purpose, and duration, for an aftermarket chain. If regular oil changes are performed, and oem parts used, the service life of up to or over150k, is a typical.
where does the colored link go?
Irrelevant, line up the marks as shown in video, for this engine design. Thanks for watching
@@AutoDrdiy im not sure if my balancer is all the way in,how far in is all the way please
@@GiorgosC-rp5ms Remove the balancer, again, measure the depth from end of crank to gear, (tap in center area of gear moderately to be sure its seated) then measure depth of dampener, inside, to see where crank nose will end up after outer part of damper contacts gear. Generally, if too of crank shaft isnt dented, and the key is flat, after final torque of crank bolt, the damper should be seated. Unless you damaged crank, or cross-threaded the bolt. In which case, either a tap the same thread as the bolt, will have to be ran through crank, first. Then a new crank bolt installed. I cant say exactly how far the damper goes, unless u measured one, and I haven't had to on those, but did booger the crank bolt once, because of puller, and had to chase threads with a tap. Be advised, the damper has to be seated, or permanent crank damage will result, belts will run off center, and gear key will shear, after destroying crank. Thanks for watching.
Ooops "Thanks"
Thanks for watching...
TIP had you started the title of your videos with Pontiac or Sunfire it would of bee much easier to find, you will get more Views if you will Change the title Beginning
Thanks Bill, I give it a go.