I’m trying to purchase a front end rebuild kit from 1A it’s a 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche 1500 2WD The only one I saw on your sight was for a 4WD. Does that matter
These video's are so helpful. I followed it in the pitman arm change on my 2000 chevy silverado and I did it in less than an hour with no lift. Thanks again and I always will be a returning customer.
Running the bolt back into the steering box before breaking the 34mm nut is GENIUS and why I love the 1A Auto videos so much. Just downright good maintenance techniques. 👌
I forgot to mention before, that you folks are great for teaching me. Many thanks! Also, thanks for wearing glasses and gloves. Too much can go wrong too quickly, no matter how tough a guy is.
Mine has 439'211 miles. As far as i know that's the original Pittman arm. I just replaced it. The puller would not budge it. I ended up having to take a cutting wheel and cut 3/4 of the way thru the pitman arm. Then i put the puller back on it and it finally came on down. What a pain. But the ol Chevy will be rolling right. Whole new front end
The pitman arm, idler arm, idler arm brace and tierod ends I ordered for my Sierra 2500 HD all came with no grease zerks. Have you guys been selling them that way for a while? After I received them I did see in the description that it came without them.
Thank you for the video! I bought my Pitman Arm for 1/4 of the price you were selling it for. I got it from a different supplier at a much better price. I'm glad you showed me how to replace it, though.
You know if you take off the plastic skid plate in the front and also the aluminum skid plate it makes it a lot easier. But thanks for the video because I needed to know the size of the nut that was on the pitman arm which goes to the gearbox.
Thanks for the tutorial. Very helpful. There's was a rubber seal on mine that had to be pushed up into the gearbox with a flathead so the puller would fit. Also had to take the skid plate off to get a good angle on that 34mm. Thanks 1aauto.
It is impossible to move the steering box around without disconnecting the linkage from the steering shaft!! This is also putting a lot of pressure on the power steering lines attached to the box. The easiest way to do this job is to remove the steering box.. will take a bit longer but will be so much easier in the long run
Maybe I missed something. Why did you mount the open end wrench to one bolt ? Why didn’t you just tighten the three bolts that mount the box to unloosen the 34 mm?
+Daniel Lamer Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/pitman-arm/i/1aspa00009?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&BgQLOOwffj0
I do have one question now how far up on the splines does the pitman arm actually go meaning the space between a pitman arm and the gearbox? cuz I have at least about half inch of space on mine when I just installed it yesterday. Thanks
Will this damage the clock spring when I take the steering gear loose? I've been trying to loosen the Pittman arm with a wrench and it moves the whole front end back and forth.
+Michael Dennis Thanks for watching! In this case the pitman arm is being replaced, so it does not matter if it is damaged when removing it! Here is the part if you need it for your fix: www.1aauto.com/pitman-arm/i/1aspa00009?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&BgQLOOwffj0
How much heat can it take before any seals in the power steering box get damaged? My pitman arm puller just ain't getting it to come off and I want to hit it with some heat, just don't want to roast any of the seals.
I am currently on the heat step. This puller isn’t cutting it and I just grabbed a torch to heat it up. I’m afraid of frying the rubber seal at the bottom of the steering box. I noticed the video cut from heat being applied to arm popping off. How long did that take? Did you just apply continuous heat until it popped or did you heat and cool a few times? I have no vehicle until I can complete this!
You refused to mention that you have to 1st remove the steering shaft from the gear box you can’t have that much movement in the gear box without the steering shaft removed from it.
That's where I'm at right now...I didn't see that mentioned and I can't get one bolt back into the steering box for getting the 34mm nut UNLESS they put a bolt back in in a DIFFERENT spot
+brian samuels Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/pitman-arm/i/1aspa00009?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&BgQLOOwffj0
+Tommy Gallagher We do not have any information on the torque but if you contact your local dealership or consult your owners manual it will be able to give you an exact torque.
I'm looking for the same answer but I've read so far the torque spec is more important that how far it reaches. It doesn't sit completely flat. 180+ should be good
+JMTZ Thanks for watching! Did you make sure to put the pitman arm back in the correct position? We mention this at the 7:00 minute mark of the video and could be the reason why.
Thanks for getting back, yes went back correct, It just off a little bit maybe cheaper part, I was thinking how could it be off tie rod did not get adjusted, it just seems to steer a bit different
+Gabriel Casillas Yes, the process should be the same for your Silverado. You can grease it when it is installed, but it is just difficult to reach up in there and access the zerk fitting. www.1aauto.com/pitman-arm/i/1aspa00009?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&BgQLOOwffj0
Trust me you will be cutting forever... When I removed mines on my `00 Tahoe I thought the same thing and after several blades I realize I was going to be awhile. Also you still have the issue of removing the portion that is thoroughly seized to the gearbox. Then again I was using a cordless sawzall. An grinder with a cutoff wheel could do it faster but then you will have sparks all over the place.
+Betty Duncan Thanks for checking us out! Correct, there are no torque specifications for this item. Please let us know if you have any further questions, thank you.
+madevo123 Thanks for watching! No you do not, because the pitman arm is grooved which will make sure it is in the correct position. The steering wheel will not move that much from the point of removing it and replacing it, anyway! 1aauto.com
Yeah. Yall made this look entirely too easy. 8 hours of work replacing my idler arm, idler arm bracket, and pitman arm. NOTHING was this easy. Given I don't have pneumatic tools. My everything hurts...............
Uhm. I keep seeing other ase licensed shops saying no air tools and only torque to 180 ft #s. Or you damage the sector shaft bearings. I dont see how the new ones in the video just plop on past the threads. I had to love tap one on to get the nut and washer to even start threads. Than at the 180 ft lbs mark it was only 2/3 of the way on the splines, then the threads stripped out on the sector shaft. They say dont beat it on with a hammer or use a harbor press cause the needle bearing for sector shaft will be damaged. I dont see how just using a torque wrench to 180ft #s presses the damn pitman arm to where it needs to be. Plus these gearboxes are cheaper than they were 15 yrs ago so your buying cheap shit from the get go too.
+ProSTEEL RAIN Unfortunately that is the best way to tell if you have a 3 or 4 groove pitman arm. You can try to contact your local GM dealership with your VIN to find out! 1aauto.com
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
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I’m trying to purchase a front end rebuild kit from 1A it’s a 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche 1500 2WD The only one I saw on your sight was for a 4WD. Does that matter
These video's are so helpful. I followed it in the pitman arm change on my 2000 chevy silverado and I did it in less than an hour with no lift. Thanks again and I always will be a returning customer.
Running the bolt back into the steering box before breaking the 34mm nut is GENIUS and why I love the 1A Auto videos so much. Just downright good maintenance techniques. 👌
Love how you use hand tools that everyone usually has
So we going to ignore that puller switch at 2:36 👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀
3:53 I thought for sure we were going to see some busted knuckles
Removal of the skid plate via 15mm bolts would have made this much easier. Plus for viewing.
I was thinking the same thing...lol.😆
Agreed fellas
I forgot to mention before, that you folks are great for teaching me. Many thanks! Also, thanks for wearing glasses and gloves. Too much can go wrong too quickly, no matter how tough a guy is.
+Michael Conroy Thanks for checking us out, I'm glad you like the videos. Don't forget to like the video and subscribe! 1aauto.com
Mine has 439'211 miles. As far as i know that's the original Pittman arm. I just replaced it. The puller would not budge it. I ended up having to take a cutting wheel and cut 3/4 of the way thru the pitman arm. Then i put the puller back on it and it finally came on down. What a pain. But the ol Chevy will be rolling right. Whole new front end
The pitman arm, idler arm, idler arm brace and tierod ends I ordered for my Sierra 2500 HD all came with no grease zerks. Have you guys been selling them that way for a while? After I received them I did see in the description that it came without them.
Thank you for the video! I bought my Pitman Arm for 1/4 of the price you were selling it for. I got it from a different supplier at a much better price. I'm glad you showed me how to replace it, though.
+From Thug to BusinessmaThanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c n
But are you comparing apples to apples?
Just ordered your 11 piece front end kit for my '02 Silverado. Can't say how much I like your videos and LOVE your prices. Thank you so much!
+tofer tallman Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
You know if you take off the plastic skid plate in the front and also the aluminum skid plate it makes it a lot easier. But thanks for the video because I needed to know the size of the nut that was on the pitman arm which goes to the gearbox.
Great video thanks for all the demonstrations you do.Its really good specific info on automotive wrenching.
Thanks for the tutorial. Very helpful. There's was a rubber seal on mine that had to be pushed up into the gearbox with a flathead so the puller would fit. Also had to take the skid plate off to get a good angle on that 34mm. Thanks 1aauto.
+Glen Mutchler Thanks for watching. 1aauto.com
It is impossible to move the steering box around without disconnecting the linkage from the steering shaft!! This is also putting a lot of pressure on the power steering lines attached to the box. The easiest way to do this job is to remove the steering box.. will take a bit longer but will be so much easier in the long run
Maybe I missed something. Why did you mount the open end wrench to one bolt ? Why didn’t you just tighten the three bolts that mount the box to unloosen the 34 mm?
Cool trick with the wrench and bolt!
+Daniel Lamer Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/pitman-arm/i/1aspa00009?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&BgQLOOwffj0
Moving the gear like that damaged the bearing above the intermediate shaft. How do i brevent the steering shaft from bending?
Tip. Loosen that nut before pulling bolts..
I do have one question now how far up on the splines does the pitman arm actually go meaning the space between a pitman arm and the gearbox? cuz I have at least about half inch of space on mine when I just installed it yesterday. Thanks
Did you ever figure this out? I'm currently doing mine and the new pitman arm isn't going up as far as the original was
also would like to know this
Will this damage the clock spring when I take the steering gear loose? I've been trying to loosen the Pittman arm with a wrench and it moves the whole front end back and forth.
How much of the splines are you supposed to see after tightening it as much as possible I can see like an inch to an inch in a quarter of mine
Did you figure this out? I'm currently doing mine and having the same issue with the new pitman arm
Great Video, are you afraid of seal damage when heating it up?
+Michael Dennis Thanks for watching! In this case the pitman arm is being replaced, so it does not matter if it is damaged when removing it! Here is the part if you need it for your fix: www.1aauto.com/pitman-arm/i/1aspa00009?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&BgQLOOwffj0
He meant seal damage in the box, and no you should be fine as long as your not in there with an oxy torch heating the pitman arm red hot
Do you need an alignment after this?
Yeah, I think I’ll pay somebody to do it, lol.
thanks
Just wanted to know how much more difficult it would be to do the steering gear box!
I can not seem to get the pitman arm back on. I lined it up but it still won't go all the way on. Any suggestions?
Great Video !!!
How much heat can it take before any seals in the power steering box get damaged? My pitman arm puller just ain't getting it to come off and I want to hit it with some heat, just don't want to roast any of the seals.
I am currently on the heat step. This puller isn’t cutting it and I just grabbed a torch to heat it up. I’m afraid of frying the rubber seal at the bottom of the steering box. I noticed the video cut from heat being applied to arm popping off. How long did that take? Did you just apply continuous heat until it popped or did you heat and cool a few times? I have no vehicle until I can complete this!
Thanks for the video. Should steering be supported somehow once the bolts are removed?
did you have to disconnect the center link bolt to the steering linkage?
Very helpful video! 👍👍
Thank you for watching! +Rick V
wow your camera is so clear
+Peter Mui Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
do I need to jack my vehicle in the air to change my pitman and idler arm or can I replace them on the ground ?
You refused to mention that you have to 1st remove the steering shaft from the gear box you can’t have that much movement in the gear box without the steering shaft removed from it.
Not true with the 3 steering box bolts out you have that much movement.
@@BIGMAN8435 So You don't need to remove steering bolt linkage out Just the three bolt on the box. If that's so a great help!
That's where I'm at right now...I didn't see that mentioned and I can't get one bolt back into the steering box for getting the 34mm nut UNLESS they put a bolt back in in a DIFFERENT spot
When you reinstalled the bolt for the steering box, why did us use a wrench? Was the purpose of the wrench to use it as a spacer? Great video. Thx
+Don Wiley Thanks for watching! It was used to keep pressure on the bolt, or as leverage to gain access to the box. 1aauto.com
nice!
I love how they skip thru the hard parts
Brilliant
great video
+brian samuels Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/pitman-arm/i/1aspa00009?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&BgQLOOwffj0
Question when replacing the pitman arm do you need to get an alignment done?
+Travis Ruhl It is recommended that an alignment is needed any time you replace a suspension or steering component.
What should you torque the castle nut on to the ball joint part at?
+Tommy Gallagher We do not have any information on the torque but if you contact your local dealership or consult your owners manual it will be able to give you an exact torque.
46 inch/Ibs and 110 for gear box three bolts. 184 for pitman arm which may be impossible just make it good and tight.
What kind of grease do you use
What the wrench
Must the vehicle be lifted off the ground for this procedure? Can i do it without a jack
You may do it either way. just tie down the steering column inside. so the wheels cant move so much.
Great video, super helpful!
+David Self Thanks for the feedback!
Is this the same process for a 99-06 Silverado 1500?
yes it's basically the same
it supposed to seat all the way down to the steering box? I have about 1/4inch gap and my air wrench will not go further.
I'm looking for the same answer but I've read so far the torque spec is more important that how far it reaches. It doesn't sit completely flat. 180+ should be good
+Osman Vasquez Thanks for watching! As long as you get it on there real good and tight like we show in the video you should be fine! 1aauto.com
There's a little gap, there should be like a rubber boot that you can move up and down
Anyone else have bump steer after installation of this kit due to pitman arm setting at wrong angle?
Thanks for the video, I just did my idler arm and pitman arm now my steering wheel is not straight , is there a easy fix for this
+JMTZ Thanks for watching! Did you make sure to put the pitman arm back in the correct position? We mention this at the 7:00 minute mark of the video and could be the reason why.
Thanks for getting back, yes went back correct, It just off a little bit maybe cheaper part, I was thinking how could it be off tie rod did not get adjusted, it just seems to steer a bit different
Get a alignment lol
When you replace an idler arm it has to be aligned to match the Pitman Arm within 2 mmeters
why you change puller ?
23boum It broke.
Is this the same process for a 2001 chevy tahoe?
+Sean Finney It may be the same or a similar process.
Is this the same for a 2000 Silverado? And is there another way to grease it up without the gun?
+Gabriel Casillas Yes, the process should be the same for your Silverado. You can grease it when it is installed, but it is just difficult to reach up in there and access the zerk fitting. www.1aauto.com/pitman-arm/i/1aspa00009?UA-cam&CTA+Comment&BgQLOOwffj0
Where could I get a replacement 34 mm like that
Wal-Mart $4.50 auto center
What does a job like this usually cost to have done?
+ONTHE ROCK Depending on the shop, around $300-$500
Not a single torquing?
Is this the same as a suburban for the same years?
+jking1752 It may be the same or a similar procedure. 1aauto.com
How many splines does it have on a 05 Chevy 1500?
+Jose Lopez Your truck will either have 4 or three grooves. The number of splines will depend on that, which you need to visually inspect. 1aauto.com
At 3:50 they skip over a half hour of swearing 🤬 and go straight to twisting off the nut hilarious!!!!
Instead of removing gearbox could you have just cut a slice into the pitman arm to to remove old one.....
Trust me you will be cutting forever...
When I removed mines on my `00 Tahoe I thought the same thing and after several blades I realize I was going to be awhile. Also you still have the issue of removing the portion that is thoroughly seized to the gearbox.
Then again I was using a cordless sawzall. An grinder with a cutoff wheel could do it faster but then you will have sparks all over the place.
How much do you charge for this?
No torque specs for those parts?
+Betty Duncan Thanks for checking us out! Correct, there are no torque specifications for this item. Please let us know if you have any further questions, thank you.
Should have removed the skid plate
(Not these guys in the video)They want 800$ to do this and idler arm too that's crazy where do they come up with these prices?
+Andrew Cordova Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have a question when you replace the pitman control arm you need to have the steering wheel lock???
+madevo123 Thanks for watching! No you do not, because the pitman arm is grooved which will make sure it is in the correct position. The steering wheel will not move that much from the point of removing it and replacing it, anyway! 1aauto.com
Yeah. Yall made this look entirely too easy. 8 hours of work replacing my idler arm, idler arm bracket, and pitman arm. NOTHING was this easy. Given I don't have pneumatic tools. My everything hurts...............
Be sure you wear a football helmet while doing it lol
An eye piece a must.
Uhm. I keep seeing other ase licensed shops saying no air tools and only torque to 180 ft #s. Or you damage the sector shaft bearings.
I dont see how the new ones in the video just plop on past the threads. I had to love tap one on to get the nut and washer to even start threads. Than at the 180 ft lbs mark it was only 2/3 of the way on the splines, then the threads stripped out on the sector shaft. They say dont beat it on with a hammer or use a harbor press cause the needle bearing for sector shaft will be damaged. I dont see how just using a torque wrench to 180ft #s presses the damn pitman arm to where it needs to be. Plus these gearboxes are cheaper than they were 15 yrs ago so your buying cheap shit from the get go too.
Whew, no torque specs? No tightening steering components to correct specs? Yikes.
Is there any way to figure out your Spline number, Other than visual inspection?
I've got a 1/2 ton/'03 /5.3
+ProSTEEL RAIN Unfortunately that is the best way to tell if you have a 3 or 4 groove pitman arm. You can try to contact your local GM dealership with your VIN to find out! 1aauto.com
1A Auto Parts when you tighten the 34 mm nut is it suppose to go all the way up to the top I tightened it as far as it would let me
Throw the whole truck in the trash 😬
It seems my 02 Avalanche has two idler arm's..is that correct?
+ONTHE ROCK Thank you for checking us out! The idler arm and the pitman arm are very similar, you should have one of each rather than two idler arms.
One idler arm on the passenger. One pitman arm on the driver