Thanks for posting. No matter how many times I've rebuilt my 3650, I always, ALWAYS, put at least two bolts into the top of the case before realizing that I forgot to put the cast shift selector thingy back on the rail, the one where once you drive the split pin through, it falls through the case into neverland and you can't turn back. Or trying to shove the case down over the gear shaft, only to realize that I forgot to line up one of the synchronizer rings in with the hub, and it sticks up about 1/4 of an inch. I just finished upgrading some parts in mine, and throwing it back into the car. It got a new 3rd gear, new input shaft and synchro hub for 3/4. The old cone on 3rd was worn out, and I somehow chipped a tooth on the 4th. Shifts like butter now.
You can make it a lot easier on yourself by building it with the bell house sitting flat and cutting a hole in the work bench for the input shaft to poke into. Watching you do it this way looked like a pane with all the gears sitting on the bell housing you can just remove the case. Building it on it side is way to hard, good job and good tips for the next one I rebuild
@@jasonbirch1182 should...will need to be careful because the shift rods will lift the gears a bit if you pull the bell not perfectly straight up. But as long as you're careful you should be able to get the bell off without disturbing anything else. Id recommend having a way to hold the transmission with the input facing up while doing it
@jasonbirch1182 you could just build an adapter plate like I did if the spacing works. I run mine behind an Oldsmobile engine and with the 05-10 input shaft which is a 1/2" longer it works out perfectly with a 3/8 adapter plate. Flush screws hold it to the engine and then the transmission bolts on like normal
@jasonbirch1182 Its easy to find the BOP bellhousing prints and the the Ford Modular (which is what the 3650 is) matches 4 bolt holes and the dowels with a regular small block Ford which are also easy to find blueprints. I had basically a half circle cut and machined in the engine side pattern and drilled a hole on crank centerline the same size as the input shaft pilot. Stood a spare block on end, bolted the plate on, and stacked the transmission on top. That way the engine and transmission are correctly inline. Then just rotated the transmission a little until all the holes cleared each other and marked those locations to machine after. Once on the mill i did extra math to make sure i was holding the centerline to dowel locations before drilling. It worked out great
Hey, How you doing? Im Rob I live in California and I have a 2000 Gt. I barely bought it like maybe a year ago. I was wondering if you can get in contact with me cuz I want to possibly get this done with you and how much would you charge me to make my trans work better or just newer.
I’d say the reason those bolts aren’t torquing right and breaking is because the size torque wrench you’re using not to mention the extension. Those need to be torqued using a smaller torque wrench like a 3/8 drive or one measured in inch pounds.
@@codysmithmotorsports736 Just keep in mind the original bolts are designed to break like that before they’ll strip the threads. The higher grade bolts may not be.
It's just a snap ring holding it in...same as the speedo gear. There's special pliers that make that snap ring easy to remove. Then two small pry-bars, one on each side of the gear (if you even need them) and it comes right off
What car was this for? Also what symptoms and noises were you having? I got a 01 cobra with a 3650 and making all kinds of noises with only 95k miles was thinking to rebuild but not sure what is exactly wrong with it
I have it in my 85 Cutlass. Built my own adapters and I've been racing and street driving it for 4+ years. Was used when I got it and really haven't had problems with it beyond synchro wear. If yours is noisy I can only guess the bearings are out due to wear/lack of lubrication. I've beat the hell out of mine and it hasn't made a lot of noise. Bearings looked good when I took it apart
Thanks for posting. No matter how many times I've rebuilt my 3650, I always, ALWAYS, put at least two bolts into the top of the case before realizing that I forgot to put the cast shift selector thingy back on the rail, the one where once you drive the split pin through, it falls through the case into neverland and you can't turn back.
Or trying to shove the case down over the gear shaft, only to realize that I forgot to line up one of the synchronizer rings in with the hub, and it sticks up about 1/4 of an inch.
I just finished upgrading some parts in mine, and throwing it back into the car. It got a new 3rd gear, new input shaft and synchro hub for 3/4. The old cone on 3rd was worn out, and I somehow chipped a tooth on the 4th.
Shifts like butter now.
I’m jealous of your speedometer gear sliding on. I cracked two of these damn things trying to put them on. Attempting my third this weekend.
Gotta be careful with them. Mine eventually cracked too. I honed out the new one until it slipped on there to prevent cracking.
You can make it a lot easier on yourself by building it with the bell house sitting flat and cutting a hole in the work bench for the input shaft to poke into. Watching you do it this way looked like a pane with all the gears sitting on the bell housing you can just remove the case. Building it on it side is way to hard, good job and good tips for the next one I rebuild
Yeah, the latest time around I spaced it up on some 2x4s and it was much easier to get assembled
Man the service manual is so bad at showing the proper way to shim it. Thanks for actually showing how to do it
@@stevemoore12 I'm glad it helped
The bell will come off eith just the 3 allens and the inside the bell bolts without ripping the gears out right?
@@jasonbirch1182 should...will need to be careful because the shift rods will lift the gears a bit if you pull the bell not perfectly straight up. But as long as you're careful you should be able to get the bell off without disturbing anything else. Id recommend having a way to hold the transmission with the input facing up while doing it
@codysmithmotorsports736 awesome thanks! I want to machine the front for adaption to my engine. I don't want to pay for a Hanlon front plate though.
@jasonbirch1182 you could just build an adapter plate like I did if the spacing works. I run mine behind an Oldsmobile engine and with the 05-10 input shaft which is a 1/2" longer it works out perfectly with a 3/8 adapter plate. Flush screws hold it to the engine and then the transmission bolts on like normal
@codysmithmotorsports736 how did you dial in the runout? That's my issue with doing that. I also have a fairly small tunnel opening at the firewall.
@jasonbirch1182 Its easy to find the BOP bellhousing prints and the the Ford Modular (which is what the 3650 is) matches 4 bolt holes and the dowels with a regular small block Ford which are also easy to find blueprints. I had basically a half circle cut and machined in the engine side pattern and drilled a hole on crank centerline the same size as the input shaft pilot. Stood a spare block on end, bolted the plate on, and stacked the transmission on top. That way the engine and transmission are correctly inline. Then just rotated the transmission a little until all the holes cleared each other and marked those locations to machine after. Once on the mill i did extra math to make sure i was holding the centerline to dowel locations before drilling. It worked out great
Hey, How you doing? Im Rob I live in California and I have a 2000 Gt. I barely bought it like maybe a year ago. I was wondering if you can get in contact with me cuz I want to possibly get this done with you and how much would you charge me to make my trans work better or just newer.
I’d say the reason those bolts aren’t torquing right and breaking is because the size torque wrench you’re using not to mention the extension. Those need to be torqued using a smaller torque wrench like a 3/8 drive or one measured in inch pounds.
Probably not helping. However I don't mind going up to the higher grade for the same reasons you put higher grade fasteners in an engine
@@codysmithmotorsports736 Just keep in mind the original bolts are designed to break like that before they’ll strip the threads. The higher grade bolts may not be.
I know much of nothing about my car and could use your help if at all possible
Bro why Yu didn’t show the hard part of getting the 5th gear off???
It's just a snap ring holding it in...same as the speedo gear. There's special pliers that make that snap ring easy to remove. Then two small pry-bars, one on each side of the gear (if you even need them) and it comes right off
Go to O'Rileys or Advance. They'll have the c clip spreader pliers you're looking for.
Where did you get your replacement parts ?
Hanlon Motorsports
What car was this for? Also what symptoms and noises were you having? I got a 01 cobra with a 3650 and making all kinds of noises with only 95k miles was thinking to rebuild but not sure what is exactly wrong with it
I have it in my 85 Cutlass. Built my own adapters and I've been racing and street driving it for 4+ years. Was used when I got it and really haven't had problems with it beyond synchro wear.
If yours is noisy I can only guess the bearings are out due to wear/lack of lubrication. I've beat the hell out of mine and it hasn't made a lot of noise. Bearings looked good when I took it apart
How big the press have to be to push the gear on ?
I have a 20 ton but it took nowhere near that to press any of them on. A 10 would be plenty IMO
Where did you buy your rebuild kit from?
www.hanlonmotorsports.com