10 PDR Tips In 10 Minutes Pt. 1 | Paintless Dent Removal
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- Опубліковано 12 чер 2024
- Are you ready to witness the magic of Paintless Dent Removal (PDR)? Brace yourself for an extraordinary journey as we present 10 invaluable PDR tips that will revolutionize the way you restore your vehicle's pristine exterior.
In just 10 minutes, you'll gain access to expert insights, unveiling the secrets of flawless dent removal. Part 1 of this thrilling series sets the stage for a transformative experience, empowering you to revamp your ride with confidence and finesse.
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Amazing tips, thanks for share your knowledge
Thanks Pedro I'm glad you found then helpful!
Great tips Tom thanks for sharing 🎉😊
Thanks Martin 👍🏻
So many horror stories pushing on laminated glass I’ve still not got the balls to go down the window on double pane. I’ve still got a lot to learn but I’m thinking I may try it soon with the PDR finesse board that the dent Olympic guys seem to use
Yes indeed, I've broken one or two and even years on I still get a little scared 😂 The main area of the glass is strong its just the edges are super brittle when it comes to pressure on an edge. Once I broke one just using my wedge to open the gap, the other was the side of my bar caught an edge when twisting. The alternative option of course is to strip out the door and either remove the glass or work the dent from the inside.
@@LearnPDROnline have you tried using a flat bar with the window up a couple inches?
@@jwild5360 Yes I have tried a couple of flat bars but I prefer my usual door tools, the window being up a couple of inches is definitely good advice, that makes all the difference 👍
thank you very much for the information
Thanks for watching, I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Gracias oor tus consejos, sin excelentes!! Saludos desde Argentina
Thank you for watching!
Real good information, thanks for sharing. Did a dent the other day, was pretty deep, got it most of the way out but couldn't get the center pit out. Any advice?
Thanks Victor, Sounds like you may need to 'open up' the dent a few times, this usually helps to bring the centre up, lightly tapping around the centre spot to shallow out the deepest point and then re working the metal up into its form, it often takes multiple attempts, I have videos on this method too!
Thanks for the advice, your the man.
i just got a car for cheap and love it but its covered in dents, hence how i got it cheap haha im about to give this a go and see if i can get it to look half decent, thanks so much for your videos im learning alot from them!
I'm glad you're enjoying my videos, go slow and good luck!
Hola, muchas gracias por sus buenos consejos son bastante útiles; solo me queda una pregunta ¿cuando el vidrio no es laminado lo puedo bajar por completo para trabajar o tambien es mejor dejarlo un poco arriba ?
Gracias, cuando el vidrio no está laminado normalmente lo pongo hasta la posición inferior, esto permite un mayor movimiento libre con las herramientas y los mangos, gracias.
@@LearnPDROnline vale, muchas gracias por su aclaración 🤝
Great tips.
Where did you get your line board from?
Thanks Brian, I use two line boards, one is a simple reflector board from www.pdrprotools.co.uk (mine is the 'tight' lines option and the second one is an LED one from www.elimadenttools.com (mine is the version 3 with clear lens and I added my own lines)
Hello sir i have a question where did you get that lamp from ?
Hello, the lamp I use is an Elimadent v3 and I added the lines myself - kecotabs.co.uk/collections/lighting-and-reflector-boards/products/elim-a-dent-version-3-14-milwaukee-with-automatic-5x4-cup and the reflector board I use is from here - pdrprotools.co.uk/linereflector-board-tight-lines-white-p-373.html
@@LearnPDROnline thank you much for your response you really helped me 🙏
Cho tôi hỏi làm như vậy có khi nào bị vỡ kinh khônh
I tried google translate but sorry, I do not understand the question
Sorry, one last thing, heat is never used to soften paint to prevent cracking. I can prove it several ways. Try me.
SKILLS and control is what preserves the factory finish and NEVER drill holes for access.
Its worse than leaving the dent alone.
Interesting opinion, out of interest where are you located? do you ever work outdoors in cold conditions? Many years ago I used to occasionally crack paint when working on really cold panels in icy conditions with a push tool but ever since I learned that warming the panel helps, I no longer crack paint, that's why I share the tips I've learned along the way. Warming the paint does soften it and make it more pliable especially on deep dents but also warming the panel helps with the hot glue process too in helping the hot glue adhere to a warm panel versus a cold panel, do you not use heat at all for PDR? How long have you been a PDR tech? This is the first time in 15 years I have heard the opinion that heating a panel doesn't help protect the paint from cracking. In my own personal experience it really does I will never risk pushing out a dent on a panel that is cold to touch.
With regards to drilling a small hole for access, I would say it depends on the individual repair. I have many clients that have said to me they would rather a small hole be drilled (providing it is sealed and corrosion protection is applied) than to have a bodyshop remove the factory paint finish altogether, smooth over the damage with filler and then have new primer, paint and lacquer applied. My opinion is that I am working for my client so if they are made aware of the available options and associated risks and still choose PDR as their chosen method than that's better than leaving the dent alone as you suggest and driving around with a dented car. Your comment says 'try me' so I would love to know your experience, how long have you been carrying out PDR for and do you have a company or any reference you can share with potential beginners here?
Don't listen to rip #6. You do not want to ruin a good label for no reason. Try working on the damaged panel and keep it simple.
Tip 6 is to practise on a flat clean area of the panel first, to get a feel for the pressure and tool tip location before trying to go straight to fixing dents with zero experience. Every student that has tried this has said it helps. Honestly in my experience its no good trying to fix dent damage with no previous experience it will likely leave you frustrated. Getting a feel for the tools and understanding what pressure is needed and how to identify the tool tip is so much easier when you learn this on a flat panel with no damage.
@@LearnPDROnline I guess as long as they don't apply too much pressure it should be ok. I would be worried myself (as a newbie) to put a high spot on a perfect panel. A reflector light or label helps out great to identify low and high spots.
@@masterreefer82Yes I am referring to working with a 'practice panel' ie a panel you can practice PDR on that is OK to make mistakes on, sorry if that wasn't clear, tip no 6 is to work on a undamaged part of a practice panel as opposed to trying to fix damage straight away. At no point do I recommend working on a real life car in any aspect until you have at least completed basic foundation skills. 👍🏻
@@masterreefer82if your worried about making a high spot on a clean panel with no damage you shouldnt be sticking a tool behind a dent at all unless it’s a practice panel. If you can’t identify how hard to push without being worried of making a mistake it’s time to take 3 steps back.
@@jwild5360 you're late to the party. My original post says a practice panel is best.