I love rivets. All kinds of rivets. They leave such a clean professional look. They can definitely be handy in certain situations, where nothing else would work. Just a little tip... I was in a "jam" and ordered a RIVNUT set specifically to make 1 connection. The connections are surprisingly strong when done correctly. You probably will never need steel "rivets" or "rivnuts". They are WAY more trouble than they are worth. Not knowing what I was doing the first time I used rivets, I figured "might as well opt for a stronger fastener than a weaker one, and ordered Steel Rivnuts thinking the process is the same..." BIG MISTAKE! Being made of steel I couldn't get them to crimp tightly, I would squeeze with all my strength and it just wasn't enough. It was enough so that the rivnut couldn't come out of the installation hole, but not enough so that it would remain tight, stationary, and solid. So now, when I go to un-screw the tool, the whole rivnut spun in place, along with the mandrel. I could not separate the tool from the halfway installed rivnut for the life of me. It was a complete disaster. I had a rivnut tool stuck to the side of my work van, and it looked ridiculous and was embarrassing. Being we're it was, I couldn't get a tool in there to hold the rivnut stationary while I unscrewed the tool. That mistake cost me hours, and after I finally got them seperated. Now I had to start drilling it out. Which again is a problem because it wasn't tightly installed. Now the rivnut would spin with the drill bit. Just a complete disaster. Do your self a favor and use the most malleable Rivnuts you can find. Being able to install them "tighter" is much more beneficial than them being made out of a stronger material. I got a thin aluminum one and installation was a breeze after that.
Probably need a better installation tool. Did you have the squeeze-handle type, the one that looks a bit like bolt cutters or something else? I'd be really careful about the hole size, too.
If used on suspension I would tack weld it good also. I've done it a few times when needed & never had problems.At times I had to drill a couple small holes on the side of it to weld it then light grind flat.
Using a aluminum rivnut with a steel screw will cause dissimilar metal corrosion, you’ll never get the bolt or screw out of the rivnut, kind of defeating the purpose.
We bought the original tool like this about 35 or 40 years ago. I think it was called The Rev-Nutter. We used it for fastening inspection panels. It comes in handy for a lot of different things. Once you have one, you'll find lots of uses for it. One thing we did, we made die sets to recess a flange around the drilled hole for the nut so that it ends up flush with the sheet metal. (Just like a kitchen sink.) That way your cover sits flush and doesn't stick up the thickness of the flange. We probably paid more for this that many years ago. And, to tell the truth, this looks every bit as good or possibly better than the original. Also, if you're concerned about this turning in the base metal , you can add a small drop of red Loctite before setting the nut. But, make sure you set tension properly and, like rivets, use the proper grip range on the insert. Trying on a piece of scrap first.
Just picked up one of these to mount a monoblock amp to the back of the rear seat of my car. Huge improvement on the various kludges (Velcro, bungies, etc ) that preceded it.
I have an original Riv-Nut set. Great for working on things like my old Land Rover. It was amazing how many places they decided to through-bolt everything with a nut on the outside. It was comical how many times my Dad or I had to get underneath the truck to hold a nut so the other person could back the bolt out on the inside. After a few of those we went digging for this tool and it saved many headaches. Good to know I have somewhere local to buy supplies for it.
Thanks for this video. I am working on a project that needs a river gun or a threaded nut insert. Now I know how it works and I can decide which one I will use. Your attention to detail was helpful. I am subscribed to you now!
Very useful to redo things under cars that you need but which tend to rust off up here in the NE. Things like fuel or brake line retainers for instance. Put the insert in with some mixed epoxy and they’re even better
I have used these things for the last 15 years. I now have a tack life one with metric. So many uses for these things. Mounting stuff to inside of van and not penetrating the roof. Great review. My first hf one I broke it but because it was so useful I bought another.
I have had mine for years. You would be surprised with the number of things you find that you can use this on. I just wish they sold the inserts by their self in the store. when you run out you either have to buy the whole kit or order replacement inserts from the internet.
I have had a Marson for 25 years. Use it all the time on auto body and interior trim when I need a secured mounting location for radios and other gear.
In the aircraft industry, they are called blind nuts, because you can install into something without seeing the back of it, or more commonly called rivnuts.
Ruttigorn Logsdon I understand completely. It's way to easy to pull the aluminum threads out, even with a 10-32. Then you have to remove the one you just broke and try again. And again. Recently slammed my middle fingernail with the tools handle when the threads broke.
Thanks for the review. I didn’t know this tool existed. Before this I would have tap and died a threaded hole. Got to love Harbor Freight! I’m going to get the set!
Rest assured, they didn't invent it... Also, it's a very poor design, meant ONLY for aluminum inserts. The real deal is made of steel and the accordingly tools will handle steel with ease... Good luck!
Thank you so much for this very informative review! I just replace the soft top on my jeep wrangler, and when i went to reinstall the frame and new top, 3 of the bolt holes for the pivot support brackets for the soft top (they mount to the rear roll bars) were completely stripped out.. They dont support much weight continuously, only when folding the top back, tried to tap the holes, and thats proving to be quite difficult because the tap just doesnt want to bite, so i stumbled upon this tool, and after watching your video, i think this will absolutely work!
I have this and use it. However, as an auto mechanic, my biggest gripe is that it doesn't have metric. Modern cars, no matter who made them, have metric fasteners, and I generally consider it a mark of laziness when someone uses a fractional fastener on one. It's tolerable when you're adding an accessory, as opposed to replacing a broken or missing fastener, but a car really shouldn't require two different sets of tools to work on it.
@@Full_Throttle_no_Brakes I know they exist in metric. However, this particular one, the one demonstrated in this video, only has mandrels for SAE/ Imperial threads. It won't install metric inserts. And at the time I made the comment, 2 years ago, it was the only one that Harbor Freight sold. That's why I was complaining- it was useless for modern cars because of that. My comment was intended to tell people that are thinking about getting this one about a serious shortcoming it had. Since then, they've wised up and started offering one that has mandrels and inserts for both metric and SAE.
6:14 If one end of a threaded collar is slightly messed up, you can insert the screw from the other end and start it screwing through, then add a drop of oil and keep turning the screw and it will straighten out the damaged spot in the other end :D
Or, you can get a pair of needle nose pliers and hold the insert, or just force and odd angle on the 'zert and back your screw out, then gently start your screw again. I do this multiple times a day building shitty grills that are made in china.
Like the review this will come in handy for various projects i am working on.refils can be bought on ebay in carbon steel or aluminum.thanks keep the videos need to add link to item
What's the difference between nutserts and rivnuts or are they the same thing? I think I've seen people use these to mount the magnetic toolbar to the inside of the rolling toolcart lids.
Looks good might have to get it. Got a astro large one to put an air compressor together works great but I see were a small one would beneficial in tight spots electric panel that kinda stuff. Hf is getting better so will probably get one.
Thanks for the vid. I actually just got a larger version of this online, although I'd seen the HF tool. The one I got is a large version to get some better leverage on the rivet nut, but I could see where this more compact version could also be useful.
I much prefer the standard rivnuts, they have corrugations on the barrel that really lock in the insert when compressed. Plus available in metric. I just use a nut and bolt to tighten them in place.
Inserts with knurling are better, less likely to spin. Red Loctite on the outside (NOT the threads) helps. Want a tight fit on the mounting hole; maybe step-drill (slightly undersized, then to final size) and make sure the drill stays as straight as possible.
Bought this exact model to install a front chin splitter on my Dodge challenger.. So it presses onto the object very tightly? (that board) can it eat it like damage it or does it just press against it. Looks pretty neat. I'll give it s go
Cool, I didn't know HF sold this tool. I'll have to look for it next time I'm at HF. There were instances where I could have used that tool. I don't understand why YT demonetizes like that, several other YT channels that I watch have complained about that. A could of them fought with YT over this, and I think they managed to get it cleared up.
These are used on lots of aircraft. 10 32 is the most common size which this doesn't have. If set properly they can last for decades. If not they are maddening.
This tool might be okay for homeowner use but mine fell apart today. Two small disks fell out of the top and I tossed it in the trash. There are some gems at HF but this is not one of them.
bought an arrow version from home depot. wore the jaws out, tried to buy another set of jaws. they looked at me like I was crazy. Harbor freight doesn't get enough credit.
Not happy with this tool. Used 6-32 die. As soon as I applied the lever pressure, the die bolt broke leaving a chunk in the rivetnut that I will have to somehow drill out (at least 30 min work).
When you use a nutzert, make sure you start whatever screw you use with it softly. then you can tighten the shit out of it. Otherwise the screw will start to crossthread and then the insert will spin in it's hole.
Wow, I have seen UA-cam demonetize Political videos, Medical videos, Adult subject videos, but your great family friendly tool review videos are not something I would have expected for them to demonetize. Just crazy. Thanks for the video and cheers. Edit: I just realized this video was from 3 years ago haha. Does UA-cam still demonetize your videos and if they do, have you been given a reason for them to do it?
My HF tool fell apart. Both stops inside the tool are press fit metal pieces and they both came loose and fell out. I tried to several fix methods but without no success. I would not buy another.
Probably a "Pop Rivet" tool. Similar to this tool, but instead of threading, it pulls something like a finish nail head through the rivet to compress it.
I purchased this but wanted metric. Before I returned the HF tool, I checked to see if the Amazon metric version www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NVSPYNM/ bits would fit. They did. The left-handed threaded metric bits fit perfectly in the HF tool. The collars did not fit at all, but using the HF collars with the metric bits worked fine. Given this it's probably safe to buy metric bits for the HF tool.
There is a tool you can use with a cordless drill that doesn't cost hundreds and it works with the steel rivet nuts. And I've seen tools that people made with a couple of wrenches and grade 8 bolts of the appropriate sizes that will also compact the steel rivet nuts. Not as convenient as this kind of tool, but workable.
So rude. Can't imagine what offended the censors. Hmm. Hey thanks for the heads up on this one...I bought all the pipe brushes, by the way and agree that they're pretty good.
Chinese import store chain. They have a mix of inexpensive (low $, good enough to get the job done) and cheap (low $, breaks, have to buy better) tools.
Nice tool, but are the threaded inserts terribly expensive? I know a simple pack of rivets costs more than a rivet gun at Harbor Freight. These threadserts must require a bank loan to purchase.
I had a pop riveter with those exact same grips on the handle, and found it incredibly uncomfortable to use - it was like it had been designed by an alien being who'd never actually seen a human hand. I got a Beta Tools riveter and never looked back. I'd avoid this tool purely because of those handle grips.
Sure you can but if you can get to the back side with enough room to put a washer on the blind rivet nut, why not just use a regular bolt and nut since it is no a “blind” location?
@@coypatton3160 stays in place by itself. Nice when having to hold the part being fastened with one hand, the screw with your hand and the nut with your third hand. Also may not be able to reach behind when the piece you are attaching is in place (e.g. a cover).
Scott Willis so just how did you hold the washer in place to put on the back side of the rivet? My simple statement is that if I can hold a washer in place, then I can hold a nut as well. Sorry to hear you are less capable!
You don't even need the rivnut tool. Just a hex-head bolt, a washer, a nut and two wrenches. Works with aluminium and steel rivnuts. No need for hydraulics or any other fancy nancy tools.
I love rivets. All kinds of rivets. They leave such a clean professional look. They can definitely be handy in certain situations, where nothing else would work. Just a little tip... I was in a "jam" and ordered a RIVNUT set specifically to make 1 connection. The connections are surprisingly strong when done correctly. You probably will never need steel "rivets" or "rivnuts". They are WAY more trouble than they are worth. Not knowing what I was doing the first time I used rivets, I figured "might as well opt for a stronger fastener than a weaker one, and ordered Steel Rivnuts thinking the process is the same..." BIG MISTAKE! Being made of steel I couldn't get them to crimp tightly, I would squeeze with all my strength and it just wasn't enough. It was enough so that the rivnut couldn't come out of the installation hole, but not enough so that it would remain tight, stationary, and solid. So now, when I go to un-screw the tool, the whole rivnut spun in place, along with the mandrel. I could not separate the tool from the halfway installed rivnut for the life of me. It was a complete disaster. I had a rivnut tool stuck to the side of my work van, and it looked ridiculous and was embarrassing. Being we're it was, I couldn't get a tool in there to hold the rivnut stationary while I unscrewed the tool. That mistake cost me hours, and after I finally got them seperated. Now I had to start drilling it out. Which again is a problem because it wasn't tightly installed. Now the rivnut would spin with the drill bit. Just a complete disaster. Do your self a favor and use the most malleable Rivnuts you can find. Being able to install them "tighter" is much more beneficial than them being made out of a stronger material. I got a thin aluminum one and installation was a breeze after that.
Good story but if Im using these on my sway bar or other parts of an automotive suspension wouldn't it be dangerous to use anything less than steel?
Probably need a better installation tool. Did you have the squeeze-handle type, the one that looks a bit like bolt cutters or something else?
I'd be really careful about the hole size, too.
If used on suspension I would tack weld it good also. I've done it a few times when needed & never had problems.At times I had to drill a couple small holes on the side of it to weld it then light grind flat.
Your story is my exact situation. Alum on Alum no need for steel. Been trying to learn RivNut tech last day and your vid set me straight.
Using a aluminum rivnut with a steel screw will cause dissimilar metal corrosion, you’ll never get the bolt or screw out of the rivnut, kind of defeating the purpose.
We bought the original tool like this about 35 or 40 years ago. I think it was called The Rev-Nutter. We used it for fastening inspection panels. It comes in handy for a lot of different things. Once you have one, you'll find lots of uses for it. One thing we did, we made die sets to recess a flange around the drilled hole for the nut so that it ends up flush with the sheet metal. (Just like a kitchen sink.) That way your cover sits flush and doesn't stick up the thickness of the flange. We probably paid more for this that many years ago. And, to tell the truth, this looks every bit as good or possibly better than the original. Also, if you're concerned about this turning in the base metal , you can add a small drop of red Loctite before setting the nut. But, make sure you set tension properly and, like rivets, use the proper grip range on the insert. Trying on a piece of scrap first.
It is called a Riv-Nut and yes, they have been around for decades.
Looks can be deceiving. I am concerned about the import metallurgy and the high-stress threaded part of the tool breaking. Maybe they used good steel?
I started with nutzerts in high school, sometime in between 1977 and 1981. So about the same time.
The hole must be the correct size in order for the rivnut to grip properly .
Just picked up one of these to mount a monoblock amp to the back of the rear seat of my car. Huge improvement on the various kludges (Velcro, bungies, etc ) that preceded it.
I have an original Riv-Nut set. Great for working on things like my old Land Rover. It was amazing how many places they decided to through-bolt everything with a nut on the outside. It was comical how many times my Dad or I had to get underneath the truck to hold a nut so the other person could back the bolt out on the inside. After a few of those we went digging for this tool and it saved many headaches. Good to know I have somewhere local to buy supplies for it.
Thanks for this video. I am working on a project that needs a river gun or a threaded nut insert.
Now I know how it works and I can decide which one I will use.
Your attention to detail was helpful. I am subscribed to you now!
Very useful to redo things under cars that you need but which tend to rust off up here in the NE. Things like fuel or brake line retainers for instance. Put the insert in with some mixed epoxy and they’re even better
I have used these things for the last 15 years. I now have a tack life one with metric. So many uses for these things. Mounting stuff to inside of van and not penetrating the roof. Great review. My first hf one I broke it but because it was so useful I bought another.
I have had mine for years. You would be surprised with the number of things you find that you can use this on. I just wish they sold the inserts by their self in the store. when you run out you either have to buy the whole kit or order replacement inserts from the internet.
I can see now, these could indeed be used in a dual capacity as both a conventional pop rivet *AND* a blind nut installation. Super cool.
I have had a Marson for 25 years. Use it all the time on auto body and interior trim when I need a secured mounting location for radios and other gear.
In the aircraft industry, they are called blind nuts, because you can install into something without seeing the back of it, or more commonly called rivnuts.
Tex Prepper yep and I hate them!
Ruttigorn Logsdon
I understand completely. It's way to easy to pull the aluminum threads out, even with a 10-32. Then you have to remove the one you just broke and try again. And again. Recently slammed my middle fingernail with the tools handle when the threads broke.
Our old unit also sets Steel, brass, and copper. Aluminum insert should only be used for very light application.
I bought this so fast. Most fasteners in a '68 Camaro are just metal screws. They wear out dumb quick. Great review, great demo, great call. Ty Ty!
Thanks for the review. I didn’t know this tool existed. Before this I would have tap and died a threaded hole. Got to love Harbor Freight!
I’m going to get the set!
Rest assured, they didn't invent it... Also, it's a very poor design, meant ONLY for aluminum inserts. The real deal is made of steel and the accordingly tools will handle steel with ease... Good luck!
Thank you so much for this very informative review! I just replace the soft top on my jeep wrangler, and when i went to reinstall the frame and new top, 3 of the bolt holes for the pivot support brackets for the soft top (they mount to the rear roll bars) were completely stripped out.. They dont support much weight continuously, only when folding the top back, tried to tap the holes, and thats proving to be quite difficult because the tap just doesnt want to bite, so i stumbled upon this tool, and after watching your video, i think this will absolutely work!
I have this and use it. However, as an auto mechanic, my biggest gripe is that it doesn't have metric. Modern cars, no matter who made them, have metric fasteners, and I generally consider it a mark of laziness when someone uses a fractional fastener on one. It's tolerable when you're adding an accessory, as opposed to replacing a broken or missing fastener, but a car really shouldn't require two different sets of tools to work on it.
Of course they exist metric. It's rare for me find Imperial and everything is metric because the whole world uses metric, including NASA
@@Full_Throttle_no_Brakes I know they exist in metric. However, this particular one, the one demonstrated in this video, only has mandrels for SAE/ Imperial threads. It won't install metric inserts. And at the time I made the comment, 2 years ago, it was the only one that Harbor Freight sold. That's why I was complaining- it was useless for modern cars because of that. My comment was intended to tell people that are thinking about getting this one about a serious shortcoming it had. Since then, they've wised up and started offering one that has mandrels and inserts for both metric and SAE.
@@puckcat22679 Thanks for the clarification.
@@Full_Throttle_no_BrakesThe whole world could fit its GDP in the GDP of countries that use Standard..
I take a small file and file a notch in the side of the hole I drilled. When I insert and tighten the rivnut it will grip the hole better.
George Eads c
6:14 If one end of a threaded collar is slightly messed up, you can insert the screw from the other end and start it screwing through, then add a drop of oil and keep turning the screw and it will straighten out the damaged spot in the other end :D
Or, you can get a pair of needle nose pliers and hold the insert, or just force and odd angle on the 'zert and back your screw out, then gently start your screw again. I do this multiple times a day building shitty grills that are made in china.
Good video put a drop of red loc tite. On the back of insert when installing do not put loc tite on the threads
how to plant grapes
Like the review this will come in handy for various projects i am working on.refils can be bought on ebay in carbon steel or aluminum.thanks keep the videos need to add link to item
I've been shopping at H.F. for years. But I found your channel because of this video ! Thanks. A new subscriber
What's the difference between nutserts and rivnuts or are they the same thing? I think I've seen people use these to mount the magnetic toolbar to the inside of the rolling toolcart lids.
They are different names for the same thing. Rivnut is just a brand name for a rivet nut or a threaded insert nut.
Looks good might have to get it. Got a astro large one to put an air compressor together works great but I see were a small one would beneficial in tight spots electric panel that kinda stuff. Hf is getting better so will probably get one.
I have a set with three different size mandrels, I paid $240 for mine 4 years ago from a specialty hardware shop.
Thanks for the vid. I actually just got a larger version of this online, although I'd seen the HF tool. The one I got is a large version to get some better leverage on the rivet nut, but I could see where this more compact version could also be useful.
Are those standard sized for bicycle water bottle holder?
I much prefer the standard rivnuts, they have corrugations on the barrel that really lock in the insert when compressed. Plus available in metric. I just use a nut and bolt to tighten them in place.
Nice post sir. I do have a Marson thred-sert tool, trust me it was way more than 20. bucks. It includes 7 different inserts from 6-32 to 3/8-16
Inserts with knurling are better, less likely to spin.
Red Loctite on the outside (NOT the threads) helps.
Want a tight fit on the mounting hole; maybe step-drill (slightly undersized, then to final size) and make sure the drill stays as straight as possible.
2:26 Or as another UA-camr showed, you can use a dab of ThreadLocker on the flange to hold the fastener in place after it's installed :)
Once you get a screw in one, they don't usually come loose.
Bought this exact model to install a front chin splitter on my Dodge challenger..
So it presses onto the object very tightly? (that board) can it eat it like damage it or does it just press against it. Looks pretty neat. I'll give it s go
The 6-32 mandrel is kinda delicate on this model. Don’t try to over set the smaller size. Have not tried the green 3 in 1 version yet.
Yeah, my 6-32 mandrel snapped when I applied the pressure. Now I will have to drill the rivetnut out with the chink of mandrel stud in it.
This tool works really well but its a PITA that HF doesn't sell additional rivnuts so you have to buy another tool if you need more of them!
Cool, I didn't know HF sold this tool. I'll have to look for it next time I'm at HF. There were instances where I could have used that tool.
I don't understand why YT demonetizes like that, several other YT channels that I watch have complained about that. A could of them fought with YT over this, and I think they managed to get it cleared up.
My insert tool is going on 8 years old. It works well. Occasional light lube is a good idea.
My insert tool is over 80 years old and no longer works as it should.
Will this work only on sheetmetal? Or can it work on a piece of pipe?
These are used on lots of aircraft. 10 32 is the most common size which this doesn't have. If set properly they can last for decades. If not they are maddening.
You are correct. We called the rivnuts.
Wondered how this was done!😮
Good presentation
Can you bolt plywood flush to the metal? Or is there a space between?
This tool might be okay for homeowner use but mine fell apart today. Two small disks fell out of the top and I tossed it in the trash. There are some gems at HF but this is not one of them.
Nice content, very helpful and informative. Thanks for sharing
bought an arrow version from home depot. wore the jaws out, tried to buy another set of jaws. they looked at me like I was crazy.
Harbor freight doesn't get enough credit.
Actually you can buy from eBay for either Rivnut Gun or Rivnuts with various sizes in standard or metric ....
Great review!! Finally someone focused on the review instead of just listening to their own voice!!
Did you look at the 3-in-1 Riveter (94100) - any idea how it compares to this?
I think it's a similar unit just has a interchangeable head for riveting or not driving I think it's better to have separate tools
Super helpful! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
I didn't know they carried that tool. Got to get me one. Do they also carry extra nut zerts ?
I've purchased the nuts from Menards.
Now I have to use my coupon! Thanks for the video!
These tools are super cool but you really need to have the hand strength to get that nutsert to fully compress.
Any idea if these would work on a fiberglass seat pan? Just concerned it may crack while installing them
Try plastic rivet. Also known as POM rivets.
Just used mine and it did the trick thx for the vid.
Not happy with this tool. Used 6-32 die. As soon as I applied the lever pressure, the die bolt broke leaving a chunk in the rivetnut that I will have to somehow drill out (at least 30 min work).
does this tool work with steel rivnuts?
Ok this must be a permanent thing,,if not,, can you remove it back out from the hold you drilled?
it's quasi-permanant. in order to remove, you need to cut off/drill out.
The PC brigade didn't like that you criticised Chinese rivets.
Great Review. Thanks
How they for plastic?
When you use a nutzert, make sure you start whatever screw you use with it softly. then you can tighten the shit out of it.
Otherwise the screw will start to crossthread and then the insert will spin in it's hole.
Wow, I have seen UA-cam demonetize Political videos, Medical videos, Adult subject videos, but your great family friendly tool review videos are not something I would have expected for them to demonetize. Just crazy. Thanks for the video and cheers.
Edit: I just realized this video was from 3 years ago haha. Does UA-cam still demonetize your videos and if they do, have you been given a reason for them to do it?
Nice review
You mentioned brass, are these also sold at harbor freight?
Taiwan is the reason for the quality! Not made in china
I’m can see using this type of rivet in leather working and making holsters
R the inserts available for separate purchase from HF?
Looks like a great tool for the money
Great Video
No, but they are easy to find online or some local hardware stores.
Can you use a regular rivet gun?
My HF tool fell apart. Both stops inside the tool are press fit metal pieces and they both came loose and fell out. I tried to several fix methods but without no success. I would not buy another.
Be Handy for repairing Rheem Furnace doors. They use similar fastener that usualy break loose and spin
Does it have a max torque applied
lol 10 yrs ago i made my own rivet nut tool i needed to add 8 for running boards to my truck lol to bad hf wasnt around my area than
Will this work on a kayak handle
6,8 and,10 are metric sizes.
Thanks. Good job
I could have used this tool soooo many times 😀
Will this work on a kayak
What tool was used for the outside panels on a airstream ? Pls
Probably a "Pop Rivet" tool. Similar to this tool, but instead of threading, it pulls something like a finish nail head through the rivet to compress it.
Are the threaded rivet pieces expensive?
Thanks for this review and how to!
do you have a link for extra rivet nuts?
Thank you sir excellent review.
I purchased this but wanted metric. Before I returned the HF tool, I checked to see if the Amazon metric version www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NVSPYNM/ bits would fit. They did. The left-handed threaded metric bits fit perfectly in the HF tool. The collars did not fit at all, but using the HF collars with the metric bits worked fine. Given this it's probably safe to buy metric bits for the HF tool.
Thank you for that, much better than the one I have.
Weird that HF wouldn't have a metric set. Far and away the more common in this day and age.
I didn't knew you can unscrew what you already screwed 😏
Haha! Reminds me of my '70's Date who was buzzin' on Mad Dog 20/20. She taught me how to do just that!
Thanks I need one of those
There is a tool you can use with a cordless drill that doesn't cost hundreds and it works with the steel rivet nuts. And I've seen tools that people made with a couple of wrenches and grade 8 bolts of the appropriate sizes that will also compact the steel rivet nuts. Not as convenient as this kind of tool, but workable.
Care to tell us the tool make, model, a link?
Nice review! Thanks for the info
So rude. Can't imagine what offended the censors. Hmm. Hey thanks for the heads up on this one...I bought all the pipe brushes, by the way and agree that they're pretty good.
Will this tool work with 1036 rivets anybody know?
Nice video! Got a new sub👍
Thanks for the sub!
What's harbor freight ? Available in Australia ?
Chinese import store chain. They have a mix of inexpensive (low $, good enough to get the job done) and cheap (low $, breaks, have to buy better) tools.
Nice tool, but are the threaded inserts terribly expensive? I know a simple pack of rivets costs more than a rivet gun at Harbor Freight. These threadserts must require a bank loan to purchase.
I bought some on amazon quite cheap
Also eBay.
Lock washer for grip?
I had a pop riveter with those exact same grips on the handle, and found it incredibly uncomfortable to use - it was like it had been designed by an alien being who'd never actually seen a human hand. I got a Beta Tools riveter and never looked back. I'd avoid this tool purely because of those handle grips.
Problem is they don't sell refill nutserts
if you look for "rivnuts" they are available from many suppliers
Harbor Freight used to sell them, but then discontinued them a few years ago.
They sell them at Menards.
Thanks for the Video..... Never fear......something better will come along.....it always does. And UA-cam will suffer.
Can add a washer to the back to increase strength.
Sure you can but if you can get to the back side with enough room to put a washer on the blind rivet nut, why not just use a regular bolt and nut since it is no a “blind” location?
@@coypatton3160 stays in place by itself. Nice when having to hold the part being fastened with one hand, the screw with your hand and the nut with your third hand.
Also may not be able to reach behind when the piece you are attaching is in place (e.g. a cover).
Scott Willis so just how did you hold the washer in place to put on the back side of the rivet?
My simple statement is that if I can hold a washer in place, then I can hold a nut as well.
Sorry to hear you are less capable!
Thanks, that is a cool tool :-)
Does harbor frate have replacement rivets for it ?
Nope. Have to get them from third party suppliers. HF commenters say the threaded pull rod break.
@@danburch9989 no big surprise in a $40 kit. High stress, and high-strength alloys cost more to buy and form.
You don't even need the rivnut tool. Just a hex-head bolt, a washer, a nut and two wrenches. Works with aluminium and steel rivnuts. No need for hydraulics or any other fancy nancy tools.
Very interesting.