Rivnut Drill Attachment - A Better Way To Set Rivnuts!
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- Опубліковано 2 лют 2024
- Reviewing the lineup of Astro Rivnut Drill Adapters. These attachments come in 2 different sizes. The ADN14 has smaller mandrels, while the ADN38 has larger ones.
🛠 Tools and Parts Used In This Video:
Astro ADN14 (smaller sizes) - amzn.to/49cR9lB
Astro ADN38 (larger sizes) - amzn.to/47TmN6t
Astro 1452 (Original Tool) - amzn.to/2Plljh1
Threaded Rivet Nut Inserts - amzn.to/2o9tTEh
Similar Items on Banggood (not featured in video)
Drill Attachment - www.banggood.com/custlink/vvv...
Drill Attachment - www.banggood.com/custlink/GvK...
Threaded Insert Tool - www.banggood.com/custlink/mKm...
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#rivnuts
#rivetnuts
#drilladapater
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What uses have you found for rivnuts? Let us know here in the comments!
Replacing self tapping screws in hvac applications .
The welded nut inside a hatchback door had rusted loose on my daughter's Subaru Forester. This fastener is for the gas strut that holds the hatchback door open. I enlarged the hole to fit the proper size rivet nut and then installed. Perfection!
Replacing self tapping screws in the engine bay or my old car.
Installing shelf brackets to hold shelves in Square Tubular steel.
They work good for some wood projects, no expansion tool needed. Just drill a through hole little undersized and press them in for instant threads.
I'm a retired auto/diesel/emergency vehicle mechanic. I've used rivnuts for decades, and they can be extremely handy in repair and fabrication.
Thanks for watching!
I've set hundreds of rivnuts (experimental airplane builds--mostly to attach fairings). Two keys to properly setting a rivnut--neither of which I heard mentioned in this video. 1) Correct hole size. You never mention having a good, snug, fit when inserting the rivnut; 2) Using a "keyed" rivnut, where the bottom of the head of the rivnut flange has a raised, thin, rib--one can file a very small notch in the underlying metal to capture the rivnut "rib". Thank you for the useful tool tips! One last comment: I didn't hear the drill's torque limiter kicking in; seems like you're going by feel more than by relying on the drill torque to stop rivnut contraction--why?
I never knew such a thing existed ! On my wish list!
I love that tool. Bought one for work 4yrs ago and everyone borrows it.
Went ahead and used your links and got both items. May as well. There have been a few times where I just didn’t bother dealing with the original hand tool because of space constraints. Might as well have these in reserve for the next time I need to do something. Good video. Keep it up
You dont need a costly tool to set riv-nuts, unless you are involved with production work. To set a few nuts, a bolt, nut, and washer, will work just fine.
That's assuming you have (easy) access to the rear of the sheet of metal
@@JoseDelgado-ho1cf Bolt, nut, washer, screws into the riv-nut from the outside surface.
@@humourless682 I see 🧐
I'm going to try that method, then.
@@JoseDelgado-ho1cf Search on here for riv nut setting, there are plenty of videos showing how to set with bolt and nut.
You beat me to it. I was thinking the same thing. I'm not a pro riv-nut installer, but that is how I did it.
New sub. Your level of tinkering is light years ahead of me but the video was a great format: logical progression, to the point and a little humor.
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you so much for posting this video. It was a total struggle using them handtool
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching.
Very valuable information. I bought one last year but have never used it.
ive had this tool for almost 5 years now its great zero issues so far
Looks like a neat little tool!
In my cargo van, I used rivnuts to locate eye bolts in various locations for securing items.
Wow! I wish I had that back in the 80s when I was working at a Ford body shop. Thanks for sharing. 😊👍
Thanks for watching!
You mean back in the day when Ford used giant mandrel pop rivets to hold the door handles and window winders on Mustangs and Fuckmonts? Marson Big Daddy all you needed.
Good video! Small suggestion maybe?, use a small magnetic bit holder in the drill... then slip the rivnut adapter onto that... when it's time to remove the adapter, you won't have to loosen the drill chuck every time, just slide the drill on and off the adapter.
Good tip!
I guess I'll finally have a riveting time in the workshop now! 😉✨
LOL!
Nice! 👍 This reminds me that I have an Astro 1442 from 2017 that I haven't even used yet on a project I totally forgot about. 🤪
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video! You are a guy that knows about Rivnuts for sure! I'm a designer that has argued with the guys in the shop installing these, and pems and others and what to be careful of and watch for. The companies I've worked for too gave me the guff when I told them their sheet metal is too thin for the tool to install. Glad to have run into your video. Well explained sir. I'm at work now, but will tune in when I get back to my computer at home.......bravo!
Cool, thanks! I've used pems too on really small screws.
This IN My opinion... Should be titled Max Engineering! Liked and Subscribed! Thanks!
Nice review Bob!
Thanks!
You can set the depth of the mandrel. I use a dial caliper and the math between an compressed nut and a compressed nut. That will keep you from over compressing and braking your madrels.
Pro tip: If you are using inch fastener sizes that require robustness, use rivet nut clones that meet AVK dimensional standards because the body diameters are a bit thicker. Most Asian nuts with inch threads just put an inch thread in a standard metric body, so a 1/4-20 Asian nut would have a body diameter of 9mm while the AVK standard would be closer to 10mm. The difference on 5/16-18 would be 11mm vs 13.5mm.
For $95?! I will keep using what I have that cost $35, never had an issue. So far I installed about 12 in my lifetime!! thanks for the video.
Quality can't be guaranteed but I found similar tool for $20 on temu..
1:43 That's because you are using it improperly. There is a distance scale on the tool for a reason. You are supposed to set the rivnut via displacement not feel. This can take a set up nut or two because it depends on material thickness.
FYI That's an anchor light, not a navigation light. It is only required when the anchor is down.
got to have this ,space is more often than not an issue with the two handle type
Thanks for watching!
Interesting. Nice work
Thanks!
Just found your channel and love the content. Modern bolts are all made from whatever junk fit into the melting vat in China, so there was no surprise that the bolt broke first. Really maddening the level of garbage we have to deal with to hold our projects together. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for watching!
I've gotten a tool meant to just install a few rivnuts using wrenches or a ratchet. Think it was $10. I just use that with a socket adapter on my drill and it seems to work well.
Obviously a better way to insert rivnuts but at that price I think I will keep on doing it the wrong way. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Check out the simple Arctec rivnut tool...pretty simple to make one to fit your needs, but at $4.50 on sale it's barely worth my time to find a piece of 0.125" steel, drill a couple holes in it, and bend the ends... and dig up some Grade 8 bolts. Install inserts with a battery impact driver like a boss instead of a big drill. Not sure why these are a half mile long, way too long plus a drill to fit pretty much all of my applications!
Thanks Harold!
I like the idea of the red rivnut tool. Will the mandrel threads on the large rivnut tool also work with the smaller mandrels in the other kit? Or did they design this so that both kits have to be purchased to cover more bases. On the long handle tool, all my mandrels fit the long handle tool.
Nice video, Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
No doubt the drill adapter is a way better tool than the squeeze handle type. For tight spaces a pneumatic rivnut gun is invaluable since the total length of the tool is the same as the drill adapter. Great video thanks.
Thanks for watching!
it's a shame they don't have a metric only version for metric only countries (which is almost all of them)
maybe in the future.
🏆⭐🙏🇺🇸🤗
Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I use 3/8” Rivnuts in sheet metal occasionally. It’s possible I’m over torquing a bit, but they tend to shift to the side a bit right as they finish.
Speaking of countertouque please tell me that that tool has a gear reduction in it so you can add more torque when using the tool
Very informative video especially on the drill rivnut tool - thanks.
It looks like (I might be wrong!) you used steel rivnuts in the aluminium, would aluminium rivnuts be a better choice from a corrosion point of view?
Yes they are steel rivnuts. They are on the underside of the engine cover so they should be ok. Time will tell.
I believe he’s referring to the reaction between steel & aluminum. The dissimilar metals touching each other cause galvanic corrosion.
@@phloughtgnarpsehs7263 I think that was covered in his reply - "under the engine cover" so won't be sitting in water for extended times. I asked the question partially to understand if there was a concern about the holding power of the aluminium rivnuts. Not much of a communicator I'm afraid, so my questions don't always end up being direct.
@@BenMitro well, galvanic corrosion isn’t related to water tho. Thats what I thought you were referring to.
That's nice i will just use pop rivets or tex screws. 😊
Have you tried the tool with an impact driver? It looks like it’s made for a quick release bit holder usually found on impactors. Seems like it would help with the torque on your wrist too.
No, the manufacturer recommends not using impacts, they have too much torque and will break the mandrel or rivnut.
good info thanks 🤠
No problem 👍
I thought the mandrel is supposed to retract once the nut is set. Are there different models that do this and ones that dont?
Is that the only way to back the mandrel out, manually?
all that test did was test the threads. to test the rivnut you would need to put a spacer so the rivnut could pull out when the bolt is tightened. that says what is stronger.
I think it tests if the rivnut starts spinning in it's hole before the nut breaks. Then you have a problem getting the failed rivnut out.
@@dorianfulton7168 I was thinking about just that. If under load the rivnut spins or pulls through you have a problem. Seeing if the 2 attachment tools give different points of failure is a test point.
Maybe project farm has spoiled me.
I couldn't tell how centered the finished RivNut is? I wonder cause I've had a Sioux pneumatic installer for years that has a nasty habit of setting them offcenter. I tend to use an AVK hand setter instead cause there's none of that problem other than slower.
ok but what grade strength was the bolt and what was the rivnut made of ( aluminum, Steel , or stainless ) inquiring minds want to know ?
The world softest bolt I tell ya 😂
Serious question, did these bolts come from Harbor Freight? Also, could a 8" extension between the drill and setting tool be used? Thanks for real life review, good vid.
No they came from TSC and are supposed to be grade 5.
My question is what grade bolt are you using for the bolt brake test?
Grade nothing.........
On this job, I would suggest that aluminum or stainless steel rivet nuts would be more appropriate in the marine environment, especially if this will be used in salt water.
Nope, just fresh water. They are also under the hood, so shouldn't see much moisture. If they fail, I'll certainly post it on YT. Thanks for watching!
When installing your rivnuts put an internal locking lock washer and they'll never twist loose when installing nuts or screws!
❤❤❤
Interesting, how much interference to you have between the RivNut and what you mount there. That part which is sbove the surface, I think, could be sn issue sometimes.
You are correct.
That tool is massive, just use the cheap drivers off McMaster and wrench socket combo. You can set up a socket on a tq limited driver. You have to disassemble your tool off the nut and off the driver every time, no thanks. Try doing that 500+ times up on scaffolding and not dropping it.
Nice tool and not that expensive.
Why are you taking the tool out of the chuck after setting the nut? Let go of the handle and spin the tool out with the drill.
I'll try it.
Only downside to these astro rivnut tools is if you don't have the space for the tool and a drill it's useless
Can I run a bolt from the backside into the rivnut and bolt stuff together?
Like a flange nut? Don't see why not.
Can you share a real quickly exactly how much torque you are limiting your drill to please?
I don't know the exact torque amount. The drill just has numbered settings. I found that 5 on the Hercules drill worked the best.
@@MakingStuff ok. That sucks but I guess I'll just trial n error it..
Why you got to use a slip clutch drill if you are not using the clutch to set the tightening torque? Does the drill not have a reverse direction to take the adapter out ?
I am using a slip clutch drill.
I use rivnuts all the time but need 10/32 14/28 and 5/16 28. where can I get those arbors
amzn.to/47Y5vW5
I don't understand why you don't just hit the reverse button on your cordless drill. Wouldn't that unscrew the mandrel from the rivnut easier than the cumbersome removal of the tool from the drill.
Please enlighten me.
I've been looking at this tool but can't justify the purchase yet.
No, reversing the tool will just push the mandrel back out. It doesn't spin the tool.
does reversing the drill not remove tool?
No, the tool is chucked just like a drill bit.
Just curious, was that a grade 1, hardware bolt or a grade 5 or 8?
The ones you purchase by the pound at Tractor Supply.
What happens if you just reverse the drill after setting the rivnut ?
It just reverses the direction of the mandrel.
Great tool. The dis-assemble with each use aspect seems terribly disruptive and not in a good way. A quick-connect chuck coupling would help to increase installations in a more production like environment.
The quick connect does work, but it makes the whole assembly a bit longer. Thanks for watching!
Except for some tight areas where this MIGHT be better , I’ll just keep using my manual tool. This just looks like way more work, just pay attention to what you’re doing.
The "test" only showed he used crap bolts but regardless of bolt strength it was never going to put outward pressure on the riv nut.
It might however have spun the riv nut...
I think I'll wait until the day they build a release function, and you don't have to take the drill off
was that that test bolt stainless?
No, zinc coated
I’m wondering why you don’t just reverse the drill to remove the installation tool.
Reversing the drill will just push the mandrel of the tool back out, it doesn't spin the tool.
I Came for the rivnuts, I'm staying for the harbor freight sorter cabinet.
Thanks for watching!
What grade bolts are you using 5
The ones you purchase by the pound at Tractor Supply.
cool stuff, but it would be nice if you take it apart to see how it works
Maybe on the next video.
rivnuts were indespensible to me as a fire apparatus mechanic. Used for hanging breathing apparatus, other heavy gear to panels and inside compartments.
Not a bad price on the tool.
Thanks for watching!
Breaking bolts, that depends on the tensile strength of the bolt.
Grade 5
Try a grade 5 bolt.
There must be a proper dedicated power tool for this !
Nope. Any cordless drill with a torque limiter will work.
There is. The ones I use to use at work were pneumatic. Could do an m12 in 5 seconds. Auto feed the hexnut onto mandrel, put in hole pull trigger to set, pull trigger again and it auto reverse out of the hex but. Repeat.
fuck well thats one way to make it bigger and more unwieldy
The first problem with the lever tool is that the instructions are not totally correct. There is an adjustment nut that would allow you to set the working stroke so the nuts can't be stripped, which comes in handy if you are pulling many nuts in the same sheet thickness. With proper adjustment the levers are reasonably closer together. It's odd that the adjusting nut is in the parts breakdown, but there is no instruction for it's use.
Yes i agree. But I don't set the same nut over and over again and can never get the tool dialed in first time. So I tend to bend mandrels and strip rivnuts if I'm not careful. That's why this tool works great for me. Thanks for watching!
On my wish list, together with a Ferrari, a Rolls Royce, a mansion and two bikini models.
Sadly this tool dose not do most common sizes
use a grade 8 bolt that wont snap off i guarantee the riv nut will strip and spin
That's not a fair test you should be trying to pull the rivnut from the metal not trying to see if will spin
I think it will spin before it comes out. If you look at the way it crushes, it creates a flange on both sides.
The actual tool for installing these shuts off when, it's installed, I'm sure it's probably $400.-$600 dollars
I've never had a rivnut fail during installation. Most fail due to flex or vibration. As for the bolt breaking, buy quality bolts, not the Harbor freight junk.
Manipulating video results for a sales pitch.
@lesschattermoresplatter5769 You think this guy is getting some of that sweet sweet rivnut tool money?
@@dobledekersoulwrekr😂
I mean, yea, that bolt looked as though it took very low torque to break, plus the inner metal looks lile that cheap casting metal :/
as neat as this tool is, I still hate riv-nuts. this tool might make it easier to install them, but that doesn't mean I have to like them...
Wow what a pain to use I’ll stick to my levers , if the space is tight I’ll use nut and bolt set up
What nobody ever tells you about with rivnuts is never put unlubed bolts into them once they are installed. I never put bolts into anything , rivnuts whatever without lube. My personal preference is a nickle neversieze. Put ya bolts in unlubed then suffer the consequences.😂😂😂😂😂
It would be a shame if I busted another rivNUT......
Not much better then just using a nut on the bolt with either 2 wrench's or a wrench and socket.....plus you can use a torque wrench on that socket to get a perfect set point.
The background noise is annoying
I see no advantage to this tool. Except tight locations.
the thing take less space... proceed to show how that new drill adapter + drill take 2 feet lol.... there is another type of riv nut tool and it takes a lot less space. you should have point out / compared. broken tool is also a user error that should never happen. measure how far you pull on the rivnut, torque isnt an issue, you need to pull until it is set, if you continue of course something will break!...
You weren’t paying attention to what he said. Also silly to say breaking tool should never happen like someone sounds know without experience.
@@Federalwaywebbs ive installed a fair amount of riv nuts and never broke a tool yet. i guess it can happen if you try to do it in one single operation and overshoot. the tool showed is really nice on an open space installation but i dont think it can fit everywhere. there are 2 type tools for riv nuts that provide the clearance. this tool seem very fast and thats the nice thing about it.
Are the bolts possibly snapping because they’re bottoming out on the other side of the square tubing?
No, they are not bottoming out.