Astro, and other companies that make Riv Nut adapter tools like this should reference your video for how easy they are to use. I see many reviews of these tools where people have ruined the tool due to poor directions or operator error. I have orderved one of these and can't wait for it to arrive to help me complete so many tasks I have been neglecting around my home, land, and equipment I own. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
I've been using Rivnuts for over 30 yrs (precision sheetmetal mechanic) and I've used just about all the insall tools (except that one). The pneumatic one is great but not cheap and they must be properly adjusted or they will snap the mandrel off. I'm going to look into purchasing this one because it doesn't require a compressor and line. If you own a Jeep and do your own work this tool is a great asset! Thanks Mike, great vid!👍
Excellent video! I followed your instructions and used this tool to successfully installed 9 rivnuts in my Jeep to secure a rear fascia before my stubby bumper. Thank you.
Posted 3 weeks ago that this helped me. Let me re state. Did a new project today and couldn't remember the technique of this. This video saved me again!
I replaced the body on my golf cart about 4 years ago (EZGO), the body was riveted in place with about 50 pop rivets. I used this tool to replace all the pop rivets with Rivnuts. Went together so easy, I used it to install both headlight & taillight assemblies, fender flares, windshield supports, etc. I've used with both aluminum and steel Rivnuts. Works well using a 1/4" nut driver as well as a drill. Quick easy installation.
Thanks for the great video. I just bought one of these tools. I messed and messed with it for a while. I was about to return it. Now I just realized I had the rivet nut on backwards this whole time. NO, the drill wasn’t too small. NO the tool isn’t broken it’s just good ole fashioned operator error!
@@code3responsevideos872 Exactly! If the riv-nut is on the mandrel backwards the flange faces toward the hole preventing it from being inserted . So back to my original comment…..”how could you have it on backwards”. I own this tool and familiar with the proper use.
@@Dixler683 quite easliy when all these new tools come in the mail, I tried to test it by expanding a rivet nut. I was not inserted into a substrait. So I my only conclusion was the m12 drill was too small to handle the job. Once I got It into a hole the right way it worked.
I am super impressed with this video. I have ordered the tools straight after seeing this video. Looking forward to receive and use the tool! Thank you
Like you explained you can put a nut in the area that is captive so you can continue your project. Furthermore great demonstration from beginner standpoint to professional on the job site. Keep up your good work thank you
Excellent demo. The concept is really interesting, but I don't use it often enough to justify a big expense. Some guys just use a bolt they tighten up manually to collapse the nut into place, so you don't necessarily need fancy tools. In tight spaces that may be all you can do, since even the rivnut adapter and drill requires about a foot of free space in front. I see the front side of the nut stands a little proud of the surface, so what you're attaching won't be completely flush. I have one of those manual tools, but the one time I wanted to use it under a car, my jack stands wouldn't lift the car high enough to get the tool into place.
I agree with you. However, if you need to set them perfectly straight, i find that the wrench method can be hit or miss because of all the movement required. This tool sets them straight! Cost/benefit to the user is the bottom line.
Thanks for the nice how to video. The instructions that come with the tool are pretty garbage lol . I have done tons of rivnuts with manual tool and the awkwardness of the tool about 1/25 resulted in bad set or sometimes even failed rivnut. This tool gets great results every time
I have a Kobe Heavy Industries tool that is very similar to the one shown that works for 3mm - 6mm, which I have had for more than 10 years but the massive issue with it is that the plastic outer casing is collapsing under the tightening pressure and really isn't fit for purpose. I have never found an alternative until now. I mostly use a ratchet on the 1/4" drive as I don't really need to break out the drill for the few that I do at a time. I have also built a Rivnut tool for M8 and M10 nuts that is modelled on the Land Rover tool, which I first made around 20 years ago. It consists of two 1/2", very short bars that are forced apart with two 1/2" UNF bolts. A M8 or M10 through bolt holds a Rivnut on one side of the combination and as the two bars are forced apart the Rivnut compresses. It is simple, very tough and has never even looked like failing after all this time, indeed its actually getting better IMO and can be used in remarkedly small spaces.
When you're backing the tool out at the end...if there was a way for the outer body of the tool to press against the front of the drill chuck, wouldn't that basically make it unscrew under the control of the drill? Two modes: The one that you use, where you hold the outside part of the tool body and it pulls in and out. Second, new mode. You slide the outer body of the tool, and now the entire tool rotates with the drill, and unwinds from the nut under drill power. Not as fancy as the $1400 Metabo version, but. Not $1400 :)
Looks like you're using brass rivnuts there. Do you think this tool is strong enough for steel rivnuts. I need to set some M10 steel ones under the wheelarch of my Saab. This tool looks great from the access POV.
No, not at all. The frame rail nutserts are far too big and thick. I don't see a drill collapsing those. The tool from Black Magic Brakes is the best tool for that job.
Which rivnuts are stronger? Stainless or carbon steel? I only got one chance left to install the a pillar lightbar mounts on my xj. The stuff sent with the mounts ruined my a pillar. They were really ill fitting but i figured hey they know what it takes to get em on. I knew better
Does anyone know if you can use the smaller mandrels for rivets with this tool? I have the one for nuts and would rather not buy another one when they are the same thing.
Is a 3/8 steel rivnut strong enough to hold a 14 gauge unistrut bar for a roof rack on a vehicle that will hold solar racks or would a regular nut and bolt be better?
That's a good question. The primary benefit of a rivnut is to have threads where you can't access from behind. If you have access and room for a nut, I would go that route.
@TheBFHGarage dang. This is getting to be expensive just to mount my lightbar lol. I have a impact driver with the same sized hex and good throttle control. I figured it'll work the same. I'm more than likely gonna try it anyway or just buy a 20v cordless drill. The hardware sent to me with my a pillar lightbar mounts from affordable offroad. They pulled right thru the sheet metal on my a pillar and I'm guessing coz they don't fit too well. I knew better and now I'm paying the price and tbh this the only thing I went cheap on with my build. If all else fails I'll weld up the holes or add another a pillar skin to bring the strength back
I have the "strong arm" rivnut tool. Will the mandrels that came with the "strong arm" style tool fit this? I don't want to keep track of two different mandrel sets.
The whole point of the tool is to set the rivnut without turning the threads. This prevents it from stripping out. I do agree it would be nice to have a quick switch setting to have it come back out though.
I used it and the first time the rivet went in fine. But when I did the second one the rivet went to the end but just kept spinning and not collapsing.
I tighten everything and heard noises that sounded like it was strip. Turned out my drill was making the noise when the drill pulles the nutsert as I held the rivet tool..@@TheBFHGarage
I have the same one for some months now, very pleased with it! I have been using a similar tool for rivets for years now, and that’s excellent too! ua-cam.com/users/shortszMNb5VARC4A
One can buy rivnut sets cheap as shit. What nobody tells you about rivnuts is to use never sieze on the bolts you screw into them. If you dont then down the track lots of luck undoing said bolts. Over the years ive had to deal with many spinning rivnuts. That is all.
Yes, but how about a 16" long bolt cutter style? Longer than a drill attachment..... It's a great tool wherever it fits, which is probably most of the time.
Astro, and other companies that make Riv Nut adapter tools like this should reference your video for how easy they are to use. I see many reviews of these tools where people have ruined the tool due to poor directions or operator error. I have orderved one of these and can't wait for it to arrive to help me complete so many tasks I have been neglecting around my home, land, and equipment I own. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
Perfect video. No bs and no dilly dallying straight to the point 🔥
I've been using Rivnuts for over 30 yrs (precision sheetmetal mechanic) and I've used just about all the insall tools (except that one). The pneumatic one is great but not cheap and they must be properly adjusted or they will snap the mandrel off. I'm going to look into purchasing this one because it doesn't require a compressor and line. If you own a Jeep and do your own work this tool is a great asset! Thanks Mike, great vid!👍
This was very useful. Especially the tip about when to stop.
Excellent video! I followed your instructions and used this tool to successfully installed 9 rivnuts in my Jeep to secure a rear fascia before my stubby bumper. Thank you.
Posted 3 weeks ago that this helped me. Let me re state. Did a new project today and couldn't remember the technique of this. This video saved me again!
I replaced the body on my golf cart about 4 years ago (EZGO), the body was riveted in place with about 50 pop rivets. I used this tool to replace all the pop rivets with Rivnuts. Went together so easy, I used it to install both headlight & taillight assemblies, fender flares, windshield supports, etc. I've used with both aluminum and steel Rivnuts. Works well using a 1/4" nut driver as well as a drill. Quick easy installation.
Thanks for the great video. I just bought one of these tools. I messed and messed with it for a while. I was about to return it. Now I just realized I had the rivet nut on backwards this whole time. NO, the drill wasn’t too small. NO the tool isn’t broken it’s just good ole fashioned operator error!
How could you have it on backwards? Do not make sense.
@@Dixler683 if you put the rivet nut on backwards it will not expand in the hole. They are direction specific to the tool to expand and set
@@code3responsevideos872 Exactly! If the riv-nut is on the mandrel backwards the flange faces toward the hole preventing it from being inserted . So back to my original comment…..”how could you have it on backwards”. I own this tool and familiar with the proper use.
@@Dixler683 quite easliy when all these new tools come in the mail, I tried to test it by expanding a rivet nut. I was not inserted into a substrait. So I my only conclusion was the m12 drill was too small to handle the job. Once I got
It into a hole the right way it worked.
I am super impressed with this video. I have ordered the tools straight after seeing this video. Looking forward to receive and use the tool! Thank you
That sure is a lot easier than doing it by hand with two wrenches 👍
Like you explained you can put a nut in the area that is captive so you can continue your project.
Furthermore great demonstration from beginner standpoint to professional on the job site. Keep up your good work thank you
Excellent demo. The concept is really interesting, but I don't use it often enough to justify a big expense. Some guys just use a bolt they tighten up manually to collapse the nut into place, so you don't necessarily need fancy tools. In tight spaces that may be all you can do, since even the rivnut adapter and drill requires about a foot of free space in front. I see the front side of the nut stands a little proud of the surface, so what you're attaching won't be completely flush. I have one of those manual tools, but the one time I wanted to use it under a car, my jack stands wouldn't lift the car high enough to get the tool into place.
I agree with you. However, if you need to set them perfectly straight, i find that the wrench method can be hit or miss because of all the movement required. This tool sets them straight! Cost/benefit to the user is the bottom line.
excellent presentation, straight to the point. Thanks for sharing
Great video, thanks for posting. 👍👌
Excellent demonstration
Thanks for the nice how to video. The instructions that come with the tool are pretty garbage lol . I have done tons of rivnuts with manual tool and the awkwardness of the tool about 1/25 resulted in bad set or sometimes even failed rivnut. This tool gets great results every time
I have a Kobe Heavy Industries tool that is very similar to the one shown that works for 3mm - 6mm, which I have had for more than 10 years but the massive issue with it is that the plastic outer casing is collapsing under the tightening pressure and really isn't fit for purpose. I have never found an alternative until now. I mostly use a ratchet on the 1/4" drive as I don't really need to break out the drill for the few that I do at a time. I have also built a Rivnut tool for M8 and M10 nuts that is modelled on the Land Rover tool, which I first made around 20 years ago. It consists of two 1/2", very short bars that are forced apart with two 1/2" UNF bolts. A M8 or M10 through bolt holds a Rivnut on one side of the combination and as the two bars are forced apart the Rivnut compresses. It is simple, very tough and has never even looked like failing after all this time, indeed its actually getting better IMO and can be used in remarkedly small spaces.
Enjoyed he video Thanks. No music back ground could hear you very well.
Thank you for the video, I just ordered one, need to do some sheet metal work and this looks like it will fit the bill!
very goood video...i've had one of these for a couple years...and never really used it...great instructions.
Are there Plusnut/ Crossnut mandrills available for the ADN38?
Nice video. I presume the mandrills are too short to use with a plus-nut?
I agree that the handheld setting tools _are_ junk. Half of the installed rivnuts end up crooked/off-center.
When you're backing the tool out at the end...if there was a way for the outer body of the tool to press against the front of the drill chuck, wouldn't that basically make it unscrew under the control of the drill?
Two modes: The one that you use, where you hold the outside part of the tool body and it pulls in and out.
Second, new mode. You slide the outer body of the tool, and now the entire tool rotates with the drill, and unwinds from the nut under drill power.
Not as fancy as the $1400 Metabo version, but. Not $1400 :)
What a cool tool! Thanks for the review!
Thanks for doing this review! I have been doing this the hard way for 10 years! Will it set the Nutserts for the skid plate on a jeep?
No. Black magic brakes had a great tool that makes it super easy though.
Great demo 👍
Looks like you're using brass rivnuts there. Do you think this tool is strong enough for steel rivnuts. I need to set some M10 steel ones under the wheelarch of my Saab. This tool looks great from the access POV.
These are steel rivnuts, not brass. They are zinc coated.
@@TheBFHGarage ah, right oh. Thanks
I've installed a few hundred 304 stainless steel rivnuts with this tool as well. No problems.
@@SeanG_ awesome, thanks
What’s better steel or aluminum rivnuts?
So, do you think you can use that to mount rocksliders like the belly skidplate? (Bottom and side of frame)
No, not at all. The frame rail nutserts are far too big and thick. I don't see a drill collapsing those. The tool from Black Magic Brakes is the best tool for that job.
Which rivnuts are stronger? Stainless or carbon steel? I only got one chance left to install the a pillar lightbar mounts on my xj. The stuff sent with the mounts ruined my a pillar. They were really ill fitting but i figured hey they know what it takes to get em on. I knew better
I don't think you would see the strength difference in that application. I would lean towards rust prevention....
Does anyone know if you can use the smaller mandrels for rivets with this tool? I have the one for nuts and would rather not buy another one when they are the same thing.
Thanks for the video great explanation.. My question is what is the model of your Milwaukee drill? thanks
It's the normal drill, not the fuel
You can countersink the hole before you insert the rivnut, this will give you a flushsurface to mount your other part,
Not much to countersink on sheet metal.
Do you know if that will work with a 1/4” hex impact driver or only a traditional drill?
@@Omnivorous1One you don't want to use it with an impact.
Is a 3/8 steel rivnut strong enough to hold a 14 gauge unistrut bar for a roof rack on a vehicle that will hold solar racks or would a regular nut and bolt be better?
That's a good question. The primary benefit of a rivnut is to have threads where you can't access from behind. If you have access and room for a nut, I would go that route.
I'm getting one
I was hoping Milwaukee would have made an all in one Rivet Nut Driver but don't see them talking about it
I wish Milwaukee made one!
Would the astro be tough to use in a more confined space?
When you look at what your other options are, 🤷
Could you use a 20v impact driver?
IIRC it requires a drill and an impact creates issues.
@TheBFHGarage dang. This is getting to be expensive just to mount my lightbar lol. I have a impact driver with the same sized hex and good throttle control. I figured it'll work the same. I'm more than likely gonna try it anyway or just buy a 20v cordless drill. The hardware sent to me with my a pillar lightbar mounts from affordable offroad. They pulled right thru the sheet metal on my a pillar and I'm guessing coz they don't fit too well. I knew better and now I'm paying the price and tbh this the only thing I went cheap on with my build. If all else fails I'll weld up the holes or add another a pillar skin to bring the strength back
I have the "strong arm" rivnut tool. Will the mandrels that came with the "strong arm" style tool fit this? I don't want to keep track of two different mandrel sets.
I don't own a strong arm set so I couldn't tell you.
What would you think would be max material thickness for these rivnuts to still be able to collapse?
Depends on the rivnut. Look at the description on the box they come in.
does this work for plus-nuts which is a little longer than riv-nuts.
I'm not 100% sure but it looks like it would.
Looks great but good luck in a tight spot. Great if you got 2 feet of clearance to work with.
How is that any different than the manual tool where the arms have to open up wide?
Well done vid.
Thanks.
Nice job, thanks!
I have a manual squeezer and the only reason I would upgrade is if the tool spins itself back out of the rivnut, and this one does not.
The whole point of the tool is to set the rivnut without turning the threads. This prevents it from stripping out. I do agree it would be nice to have a quick switch setting to have it come back out though.
In the future you should put a link to the tool you're reviewing in case people would like to acquire it.
Links tend to die to quickly. Plus not everyone shops at the same place. Prices also change and people like to find the best deal.
Does anyone know if this tool with work on the Plus-nuts or pre-bulbed nuts?
I used it and the first time the rivet went in fine. But when I did the second one the rivet went to the end but just kept spinning and not collapsing.
The mandrel needs to be tightened into the tool. That's operator error!
I tighten everything and still the same.
@@TheBFHGarage
I tighten everything and heard noises that sounded like it was strip. Turned out my drill was making the noise when the drill pulles the nutsert as I held the rivet tool..@@TheBFHGarage
Will this work on closed end rivnuts?
It should as long as you can get enough thread engagement.
@@TheBFHGarageawesome I have a converted school bus I need to put a bunch in this would make it way easier
@@TheBFHGaragethank you so much 🙏🏼
nice tool, good review
Thanks brother!
Encountered this problem yesterday. Trashed four rivnuts trying to install three.
Using this tool or something else? Details!
@@TheBFHGarage lopper arms...didn't have room
Great video, tnx!
Rivnuts are awesome but I think there are people who are intimidated by them. This tool can make those apprehensions go away.
I am interested by this
Cool
👍👍👍
I have the same one for some months now, very pleased with it! I have been using a similar tool for rivets for years now, and that’s excellent too! ua-cam.com/users/shortszMNb5VARC4A
One can buy rivnut sets cheap as shit. What nobody tells you about rivnuts is to use never sieze on the bolts you screw into them. If you dont then down the track lots of luck undoing said bolts. Over the years ive had to deal with many spinning rivnuts. That is all.
The first thing you do... is set the drill to driver mode ...omits details.
Wrong. You don't set it to driver.
ça ne fonctionne que très peut de temps ne pas acheter 🥵
Is that Obama narrating this video?
useless and impractical. The stick out with the drill is huge. Useless inside a car or a frame.
🤦🤷💩
Yes, but how about a 16" long bolt cutter style? Longer than a drill attachment..... It's a great tool wherever it fits, which is probably most of the time.
everything is made in China dude!!
I know..... unfortunately.
You sure about that? You’d be wrong
Any similar tool with mm threads?