I love this guy's videos. I was chasing intermittent lockout (once every couple days) on a beckett AFG for over 2 years. Did all the stuff, filter, screen, nozzle, electrodes, transformer. Motor replacement finally resolved the issue. I think someone with more experience than me would have gone to the motor quicker, because it was making a funny buzzing sound when it started up. New one doesn't do that and the burner starts up a lot quicker too.
Had 4 or 5 service calls because boiler would shut down every few days. We finally realized that if you hit the motor with a wrench, it would kick right on. Thanks to this video, I changed the motor, squirrel cage & coupler myself. Cost about $125. Thanks Steve!
Steve - you were right. I checked the pump again by jumping out the FF and verifying the flow. My flow was ok for a few seconds and then dropped significantly. I proceeded to take the filter apart and check the flow at the shut off valve, it was minimal. I used a CO2 gun to blast air back toured the tank. I reopen the shut off valve and found the flow to be a lot stronger. I put everything back together and bled the pump. The system has been running fine since about 3:45pm today. Thanks again for your help, I truly enjoy your videos and learn a lot.
Thanks, I learn a lot from your vids and you have a quirky sense of humor that I appreciate. Mine was a damper getting hung up- used some sandpaper to clean around the bottom of the damper vent and then it worked fine. The damper was getting hung up on rust or debris. Over time the hinge pins of the damper wore down the holes on each side because of movement of the damper plate ,it touched the bottom of the vent pipe. I sanded the bottom edge of the plate a little too with some 80 grit paper so it moved freely. There's enough clearance now and it's running fine. I'm sure this isn't always the case, but it may help someone if that's what's causing it to shut down.
Hey Steve, I have a Gilbert &Barco oil fired hot air furnace that has been in operation since 1952. Same old burner assy. I rebuilt the fire pot once and rewelded parts of the rear a few years ago.. but it's still running.
I've gone through many burner maintenance companies over the years. The first one (an oil dealer) was trying to sell the business, and, to boost profits (to get a higher price for the business) went through the neighborhood and told each homeowner that his burner was about to fail due to cracks in the combustion chamber. ["It'll burn your house down! You need a new boiler/furnace."] I got a second opinion and was shown that the liner had lots of crud built up, and the crud had cracks. The liner and combustion chamber/box were fine. Solution: do nothing or line the chamber. This was about 30 years ago. Boiler is still fine. Many neighbors have had maintainers who like to "soup-up" the burners, usually by replacing the nozzle with one with different specs. from the original. Many would fail to light intermittently after the modification. My latest problem is that the maintainer likes to use the modern electrode adjustment specs. from the manufacturer (Wayne), which are different from the specs. printed on the burner. When adjusted according to what's on the burner, the burner lights reliably, at least until the electrodes are burned down pretty far (longer than the interval between tune-ups). When adjusted according to modern specs., it'll fail to light within a day or two. [I contacted Wayne; they said, "If the old specs. work, use them. -Can we sell you a new burner?"] I considered getting one of those jigs for adjusting the electrodes, but it isn't clear what specs. they implement. [After the latest tune-up (several months ago), when the burner failed to light (multiple times in three days), I just adjusted the electrodes myself with a steel rule. It's been running fine since.]
STEVEN THANKS FOR WAHT YOU DOYOUR DOING A GOOD THING HERE. I have a basic af-10 beckett's oil burner with the same issue. I get oil from the pump, have changed out the controller and the cad cell. Ignighter looks good and electrodes also look good. I ordered a new motor to try next. I am in Maine retired from the military grew up in new bedford MA> Seen some familiar sights from you windshield in the videos. Thanks Bud
Im not sure if anyone said this yet but when checking the spark make absolutely certain the handle doesn't have any cracks. I got blasted by a transformer due to a hairline crack. There is more than enough voltage to kill you dead right there. Luckily for me i was using a screwdriver intended for high voltage work.
Oddly comforting to listen to you breath through your nose while you’re working. Reminds me of being beside my FATHA when I was a kid while he was fixing something or OTHA.
This past week, my snowbird in-laws 1996 Miller hot air unit with Beckett was tripping out when no one was around. They had 'a guy' come and clean it. He seemed knowledgeable. Same problem came back, so he said the motor was making noise and was too buys to come back soon. I looked at it and figured I could change it, and the oil pump was definitely squealing, so I changed that instead along with the filters and nozzle. Squealing went away, but same problem shutting off, so I changed both the motor and primary- I put on a Carlin- very nice unit, and also new transformer and electrodes. I even put 2 bottles of hotshot in and recirculated the oil in the tank with a pump. The primary would flash green for a little bit, then go solid and run. But the same problem came back, would run all night the off again in the morning. Turns out the f*cking guy who cleaned it opened the air setting way to far- almost all the way, and was blowing out the fire. I had no Idea as to how much that made a difference. What a f*cking $nightmare$. But I sure learned a lot- try the free adjustment stuff first!!
I've been a hvac service tech for 20 years now. 95% of the time when the burner trips out once a day or so at random times, change the transformer/ igniter & electrodes and takes care of it every single time. Except that tiny 5% lol. But that aside, I do like the videos you've done, at least someone on here seems like a real service tech. Thank you again.
Hi folks, had same issue, reset would trip once or twice per day. When I press the reset, the transformer would whine, def had the spark, felt the motor and noticed it was getting hot on one side. Next time this happened, I spun the blade then pressed the reset, no more whine and motor starter spinning. So no I knew the motor was the problem (original motor). Of course, I already changed all the filters, screen filter in the pump, checked flow, cleaned electrodes and spray nozzle.
Thanks for sharing. I had an intermittent problem like this, and it kept tripping out. I checked the spark and it had decent spark at the transformer. But ultimately it was one of the newer digital style transformers that would work on and off. Also I had my thermostat programmed so temps went down at night, burner wouldn't fire much until morning, and it would lockout over night. Sometimes it would happen in a few days, weeks, and months. I replaced with an iron core / non-solid state style transformer as I think steve has suggested in other videos.
Paul Lesogor Yeah the intermittent spark cant blaze through small inconstancy in oil flow. Might have a small vac leak or other crud. A tiger loop is a fine addition when converting to an intermittent spark.
I have gotten the same issue going on and it's like below zero all this week up here in Maine and it looks like my furnace needs a motor to hopefully it's not too costly thanks for the video this to help me a lot now I know what the issue is I've taken apart my furnace before and cleaned it it might be the tip but by looking at my motor it looks like it's really old
I only know enough to be dangerous but wouldn't checking the flame sensor and igniter control box be before changing the motor? I would have guessed a flame sensor or fouled probes..
I have the same problem right now, good oil flow, cleaned the screen in the pump, checked cumtomers replacement of fuel filter.. power to transformer but no spark and no psi on water, feed and backflow dead. 1st visit new transformer, nozzel, and water feed, fixed the customers' shotty install of new electrodes. Second visit replaced the controller to new smart controller from old. 3rd visit to be seen but I'm going flipping crazy over hear. Already eating 170.00... 😢
Had a similar issue. It has an oil heater on the nozzle assembly unit. The wires for it were partially obscuring the view of the photocell that looks for fire.
Mine tripped b/c the start/run capacitor blew so when the burner started , the load line set temperatures kicked in and told the unit to shut off, as the main fan wasnt running. I could start the fan by hand when a load line run temp allowed it. Was a beast to troubleshoot, the oil tech company set out changed filter, cad cell, oil nozzle, ait filter, was starting to look like parts cannon fixing. So after watching some videos it was the blown capacitor.
So, repairing forced air oil furnaces is just like being a doctor. Keep replacing parts and trying different things until you hit the one that works. Thanks for the videos.
Im sericing mine own heater and the money I save just trying to figure it out. So far switch and nozzle and it ran fine for 24 hours now it shit off faster. Motor looks easy enough plus my brother does this kind of work and I just have him on what's app t see what I'm doing. Great video I have been telling him that the motor sounds like the fins are worn.
Yeah the newer style "solid state" ignition transformers are a pain in the ass because they get intermittent... Like they work then they dont and usually 95% of the time it's a intermittent transformer. We have a F3 Beckette model with the 51771U ignition transformers get intermittent with our furnace. We have had to replace them every 5-10 years. We have gotten now so we always keep a spare on hand since they go up so frequently.
I had this issue. Turns out it was caused by my burners power vent system. An overgrown shrub was interferring with the vent exhaust flow and intermittently tripping the safety and shutting down the burner. Trimming back the bush fixed the issue.
Did the motor swap actually fix this issue? I don’t see an update. Was it off on safety or just fail to start? Primary control with intermittent issues can be a challenging cause to diagnose too
good video,, sort of like when you take your car with a squeak to the mechanic and when you get it there it dont squeak no more. hope you got it ,, good job good vid bet you like the challenge of diagnosing those "hidden problems"
steven lavimoniere let’s be honest, it was because of the replaced coupler and not the motor. Motor had a manual reset overload. If that were intermittently overheating like you suspected. That would trip. Not the primary control
Steve ... would a bad themastat cause such issues ... intermitent ? .. had service callls .. replaced pump nossle etc .. last thing they replaced was the digital themastat... no issue after that ...
I just had my furnace cleaned. Told the guy it tripped once. He tested the transformer with a screwdriver said it was good. That was a few weeks ago. Now it tripped 2 more times & he wants another service call. I have a relay on the pump the control is a Honeywell R8184G4009 which is old. When I press the reset button it clicks fast the furnace will run & stay running for weeks. The motor is 11 years old. Any ideas?
Enjoy watching your videos. I have a question to ask you. Can a fuel pressure gauge be installed permanently on the the fuel pump? One could simply tell a glance as to the output pressure anytime.
I notice you do not use the gasket provided with the Allanson transformer, I once forgot to install it and lived with a low level hum for a few days. It actually resonated through the house.
Hi Steven, I certainly appreciate what your doing with your videos. I have learned how to check a transformer and have replaced that. My parents have an old Heil oil burner that I am trying to get running for them. The have been space heating for the past few years and with a large house that just not enough. When I turn on the breaker the Furnace will fire right up and run a whole cycle bringing the house up to temperature. When the thermostat triggers it to start again it will turn on the blower for the burn chamber and fuel but no ignition. Every time I allow the heater to go 20 mins or so without any electric and then turn the breaker back on it fires perfect. What should I look at next
I can’t get my copper fuel line from the pump to the burner to stop leaking fuel at the burner, where it screws into the igniter. Tried tightening it leak got better but still there, think I need to replace the copper line?
My fuel oil is coming out frothy. Pump is a year old. Tank is above boiler. Can't figure out why fuel is doing this. Checked flare nut at tank appears good( out of top of tank). Would sludge do this? Wondering if I should blow the line back to tank.
Great job Steve. I've been reading the comments here and people blame the electronic igniters. the older callin electronic igniters had a built in thermal overload that would trip than it would reset itself.
All the parts of my burner are new the pump the transformer the electros the nozze line the controller the cad cell and my burner still ahuts off after 50 sec what could be the problem??
I have the same issue with my oil burner. it trips frequently ( 2 to 3 times a day). my service guy replaced oil filter, nozzle, motor and the trip relay box and cleaned the fuel line. nothing changed the furnace still tripping. i am tired of calling this service guy and i am thinking to change him. and advice to why i have this issue. According to the service man the flame looks good no black smoke bump is good. so what the heck is wrong with my furnace help please
We have same oil burner type unit. It works when the tech is here then after he leaves and temperature gets up then it shuts off after it tries coming back on it won’t light. What could be the problem
I too have a similar system. My tank is outside and i believe that because there is a lot of sludge in my tank and my tank is under the ground. Is there any cleaning solution that i can use perhaps once a month that i can pour into my tank outside?
I am taking the tank out of the ground, the new tank will be a gravity flow system to the burner, should I have a one way valve between the tank and the burner in case I have a leak so it won't drain all the fuel out of the tank in my garage? If I do what kind of valve and where are they sold?
just had a brand new beckett installed and something not quite right...bled it and it fires up nice then runs a long cycle and shuts off...wont start back up unless its bled again...been going on all week. I am getting white fuzzy air in line...bleed it clean fire it up same thing...runs a full cycle shuts off wont fire back up unless bled. all new filters and gaskets on tank end. acts like its getting air from somewhere or a pump issue . I also bled filter at tank so its not that end of things. like pump not holding prime.only thing i havent bled is that short line at pump.
I'm having the same exact problem, except possibly for the overrunning issue. This all started after the hot water heater was replaced. Trips daily. Reset either lights and then times out and shuts off, or it won't light until I bleed the line (lots of foam at first). After a bleed, it seems to stay on I believe 100% of the time. I see no leaks which I figure would show where air is entering the lines. Plumber says there's no nozzle shut off on my system (heard another video talk about some form of nozzle shut off that prevents air from being sucked in at the nozzle when the system shuts off), but I don't have that. Can't figure where air is entering the system.
my blast tube get oil and it drips down to bottom of the burner and motor. I did all, replaced the nozzle, set the electrode, but keep seeing oil at the beginning of blast tube. I can't really tell where the oil's come from, but I do see it. Any suggestion?
Hi Steve I've been without heat for several days, I have a Beckett similar to this one on the video. My oil furnace trips out every 1-4 minutes. I have had done a tune up, new pump, in 2017 got a new tranformer, nozzle system have been cleaned, cad cell looks clean and reads well, lines have been bleed, it come out good and red I even placed a new reset box, but still trips out. The only thing I see that is left it's my motor. My motor starts and burner flames right away. My motor reset button popped out once but continued to start after I pressed the reset. However seeing this video it seemed like the motor started aswell and still the motor was bad. I need help not sure what to do, I even hard wired the motor for approx 2 min, to see if it tripped out and it didn't dont know if I should of hard wired for longer, but however I NEED HELP!!! Love your videos Steve il wait your response. Thanks God bless!!
That`s probably got it. I have had a few cracked F3 burner heads that would give intermittent lock out. Some old burners are just enough off spec on every thing they should be set upon with a hammer and put out of their misery. Enjoyed the video.
Mines doing the same thing, I get a hard lockout and reads TT Closed Limit Closed. I replace the transformer, cad eye, and primary control. It runs for a day and lock out then I have to reset it. The motor sounds fine but could it be bad and is that the problem?
My system was just tuned up a month ago. The last couple days I have to hit the reset button to get it to fire up... It runs fine... Later when it cools back down it doesn't kick on automatically like it should via the thermostat... So I gotta go hit the button again... Again, runs fine after this... What is my problem??
Hi Steve, my burner is tripping out every ten minutes. The pump is working (plenty of flow), I replaced the transformer, nozzle and electrodes along with doing the annual cleaning this summer. What do you think is kicking out the the burner? From this video it seems like it might be the motor...
+Carlos Umana what it and see what it does could be a pump. sometimes its running to lean can do that . every 10 minites i would have to be there looking at it to make a ruling on it
@@oharedwa7792 some times the ohms and amp draw is normal. But a bearing starting to go bad can heat up and cause drag on the motor. Once that happens, amps will rise, but you need to be there to catch it. That will cause the motor to over heat and shut down. Once everything cools down and the OL resets, all is normal again for a little while. Although I agree checking amperage draw and ohms is standard procedure, it won't ALWAYS reveal an intermittent problem.
Maybe that's wrong with mine. Sometimes I run a week before it wont start in the morning and trips out. Lately its like everyday. Usually once reset it fine for a while. I wouldn't mind but I don't have inside access to the basement lol .
I use to work on oil fired boilers years ago. We had one that would go off several times. Man we were stumped as to what might be happening? Finally after running it off and on several times, the safety control was tripping like a minute after the unit shut down, like it was thinking the burner was running with no fire, then trip out.
I bet the primary was shot, possible electric surge or power outage corrupts the primaries circuits and if you ohm test the cad cell FF terminals and it jumps to 1600 and above it kills itself thinking there’s no fire seen by the cad cell eye. Unfortunately there’s a few things that can be the issue so it can be frustrating to narrow down which one. Been there done that.
Hello Steve. Quick question. I was told by my tech, that the transformer continues to arc throughout the burn cycle. I said I didn’t think so, but figured I’d ask the pro. Wouldn’t that transformer overheat running all that amperage constantly? Doesn’t the CAD cell recognize flame and A.) keep the pump on, and B.) stop the “arc” needed to ignite the fuel? Thanks for the informative videos, I’m late to your channel but slowly catching up on the content.
The newer "Intermittent Primary Oil Ignition" (aka. relay box) have the arc cut-out capability (marked by separate wires to the motor, valve, transformer). The older relay boxes like the Honeywell R8184 that have only three wires (black, white orange) are always on (easily confirmed by the fact there is only one wire (orange) that powers the motor, transformer and valve). Just went through that exercise 2 weeks ago.
Transformer puts out high voltage 10,000 volts to 14k depending on model but they aren’t high amperage which would create a lot of heat. They don’t get hot like you’re thinking..
Old motor uses a start capacitor with a set of contacts that open, dropping the cap out once it gets up to speed. New motor is the revised PSC style that’s supposed to be more efficient, and doesn’t have contacts to jam, or wear out.
![Дон ДОН, Алаудинов и СБЕЖАВШИЕ из под Курска ахматовцы 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dEfCf5IK26Q/mqdefault.jpg)
I love this guy's videos. I was chasing intermittent lockout (once every couple days) on a beckett AFG for over 2 years. Did all the stuff, filter, screen, nozzle, electrodes, transformer. Motor replacement finally resolved the issue. I think someone with more experience than me would have gone to the motor quicker, because it was making a funny buzzing sound when it started up. New one doesn't do that and the burner starts up a lot quicker too.
Had 4 or 5 service calls because boiler would shut down every few days. We finally realized that if you hit the motor with a wrench, it would kick right on. Thanks to this video, I changed the motor, squirrel cage & coupler myself. Cost about $125. Thanks Steve!
Steve - you were right. I checked the pump again by jumping out the FF and verifying the flow. My flow was ok for a few seconds and then dropped significantly. I proceeded to take the filter apart and check the flow at the shut off valve, it was minimal. I used a CO2 gun to blast air back toured the tank. I reopen the shut off valve and found the flow to be a lot stronger. I put everything back together and bled the pump. The system has been running fine since about 3:45pm today. Thanks again for your help, I truly enjoy your videos and learn a lot.
+Carlos Umana a good oil flow in important with oil very important
Thanks Steve.i have the intermittent problem. Runs for a day or two and than it stops.
Elmer
Thanks, I learn a lot from your vids and you have a quirky sense of humor that I appreciate. Mine was a damper getting hung up- used some sandpaper to clean around the bottom of the damper vent and then it worked fine. The damper was getting hung up on rust or debris. Over time the hinge pins of the damper wore down the holes on each side because of movement of the damper plate ,it touched the bottom of the vent pipe. I sanded the bottom edge of the plate a little too with some 80 grit paper so it moved freely. There's enough clearance now and it's running fine. I'm sure this isn't always the case, but it may help someone if that's what's causing it to shut down.
The barometric damper caused a repeated fail to start or off on safety? 😳
Had the same issue with my burner. Replaced the screen which was all sludged up. While I was there replace the motor. Thank you for your help sir!
I have a similar system and am trying to learn as much as I can so I can troubleshoot small issues. THANK YOU for making these!!
Hey Steve, I have a Gilbert &Barco oil fired hot air furnace that has been in operation since 1952. Same old burner assy. I rebuilt the fire pot once and rewelded parts of the rear a few years ago.. but it's still running.
Thanks for sharing Steve some of your knowledge Steve helps a lot of us out here with less knowledge about oil burners
Great job Steve, I do so much enjoy your videos. You sure put things in order and easy to follow alone as you do your magic. Keep safe my friend.
Video is very informative. Saved me untold hours. I wish all videos were this good. Thank you so much.
I just fixed my boiler thanks to this video. You saved me a bundle. Thank you so much.
I've gone through many burner maintenance companies over the years. The first one (an oil dealer) was trying to sell the business, and, to boost profits (to get a higher price for the business) went through the neighborhood and told each homeowner that his burner was about to fail due to cracks in the combustion chamber. ["It'll burn your house down! You need a new boiler/furnace."] I got a second opinion and was shown that the liner had lots of crud built up, and the crud had cracks. The liner and combustion chamber/box were fine. Solution: do nothing or line the chamber. This was about 30 years ago. Boiler is still fine. Many neighbors have had maintainers who like to "soup-up" the burners, usually by replacing the nozzle with one with different specs. from the original. Many would fail to light intermittently after the modification. My latest problem is that the maintainer likes to use the modern electrode adjustment specs. from the manufacturer (Wayne), which are different from the specs. printed on the burner. When adjusted according to what's on the burner, the burner lights reliably, at least until the electrodes are burned down pretty far (longer than the interval between tune-ups). When adjusted according to modern specs., it'll fail to light within a day or two. [I contacted Wayne; they said, "If the old specs. work, use them. -Can we sell you a new burner?"] I considered getting one of those jigs for adjusting the electrodes, but it isn't clear what specs. they implement. [After the latest tune-up (several months ago), when the burner failed to light (multiple times in three days), I just adjusted the electrodes myself with a steel rule. It's been running fine since.]
Very informative thank you for taking the time to do these. Wished I lived closer to you, you would be my HVAC guy.
Ugh, I hate intermittent problems. They are so hard to fix!! Good job!!
STEVEN THANKS FOR WAHT YOU DOYOUR DOING A GOOD THING HERE. I have a basic af-10 beckett's oil burner with the same issue. I get oil from the pump, have changed out the controller and the cad cell. Ignighter looks good and electrodes also look good. I ordered a new motor to try next. I am in Maine retired from the military grew up in new bedford MA> Seen some familiar sights from you windshield in the videos. Thanks
Bud
Im not sure if anyone said this yet but when checking the spark make absolutely certain the handle doesn't have any cracks. I got blasted by a transformer due to a hairline crack. There is more than enough voltage to kill you dead right there. Luckily for me i was using a screwdriver intended for high voltage work.
Thank you for video. I came across lose wires. No springs in wire caps. Replaced them all and ran like a charm
Oddly comforting to listen to you breath through your nose while you’re working. Reminds me of being beside my FATHA when I was a kid while he was fixing something or OTHA.
Te
😂😂😂
You should hear the noises he makes dropping a Deuce.
This past week, my snowbird in-laws 1996 Miller hot air unit with Beckett was tripping out when no one was around. They had 'a guy' come and clean it. He seemed knowledgeable. Same problem came back, so he said the motor was making noise and was too buys to come back soon. I looked at it and figured I could change it, and the oil pump was definitely squealing, so I changed that instead along with the filters and nozzle. Squealing went away, but same problem shutting off, so I changed both the motor and primary- I put on a Carlin- very nice unit, and also new transformer and electrodes. I even put 2 bottles of hotshot in and recirculated the oil in the tank with a pump. The primary would flash green for a little bit, then go solid and run. But the same problem came back, would run all night the off again in the morning. Turns out the f*cking guy who cleaned it opened the air setting way to far- almost all the way, and was blowing out the fire. I had no Idea as to how much that made a difference. What a f*cking $nightmare$. But I sure learned a lot- try the free adjustment stuff first!!
I've been a hvac service tech for 20 years now. 95% of the time when the burner trips out once a day or so at random times, change the transformer/ igniter & electrodes and takes care of it every single time. Except that tiny 5% lol. But that aside, I do like the videos you've done, at least someone on here seems like a real service tech. Thank you again.
Hi folks, had same issue, reset would trip once or twice per day. When I press the reset, the transformer would whine, def had the spark, felt the motor and noticed it was getting hot on one side. Next time this happened, I spun the blade then pressed the reset, no more whine and motor starter spinning. So no I knew the motor was the problem (original motor). Of course, I already changed all the filters, screen filter in the pump, checked flow, cleaned electrodes and spray nozzle.
Thanks for sharing. I had an intermittent problem like this, and it kept tripping out. I checked the spark and it had decent spark at the transformer. But ultimately it was one of the newer digital style transformers that would work on and off. Also I had my thermostat programmed so temps went down at night, burner wouldn't fire much until morning, and it would lockout over night. Sometimes it would happen in a few days, weeks, and months. I replaced with an iron core / non-solid state style transformer as I think steve has suggested in other videos.
Paul Lesogor Yeah the intermittent spark cant blaze through small inconstancy in oil flow. Might have a small vac leak or other crud. A tiger loop is a fine addition when converting to an intermittent spark.
Paul Lesogor i have a lot of problems with them electronic transformer i will not buy them anymore
Thank you Steven for your generosity!!
I have gotten the same issue going on and it's like below zero all this week up here in Maine and it looks like my furnace needs a motor to hopefully it's not too costly thanks for the video this to help me a lot now I know what the issue is I've taken apart my furnace before and cleaned it it might be the tip but by looking at my motor it looks like it's really old
any updates on solution?
I only know enough to be dangerous but wouldn't checking the flame sensor and igniter control box be before changing the motor? I would have guessed a flame sensor or fouled probes..
I have the same problem right now, good oil flow, cleaned the screen in the pump, checked cumtomers replacement of fuel filter.. power to transformer but no spark and no psi on water, feed and backflow dead.
1st visit new transformer, nozzel, and water feed, fixed the customers' shotty install of new electrodes.
Second visit replaced the controller to new smart controller from old.
3rd visit to be seen but I'm going flipping crazy over hear. Already eating 170.00... 😢
Had a similar issue. It has an oil heater on the nozzle assembly unit. The wires for it were partially obscuring the view of the photocell that looks for fire.
Mine tripped b/c the start/run capacitor blew so when the burner started , the load line set temperatures kicked in and told the unit to shut off, as the main fan wasnt running. I could start the fan by hand when a load line run temp allowed it. Was a beast to troubleshoot, the oil tech company set out changed filter, cad cell, oil nozzle, ait filter, was starting to look like parts cannon fixing. So after watching some videos it was the blown capacitor.
Igniters also can quit when they heat up, then start working again when they are cool. That igniter seemed to be an old one.
Very helpful videos. Did you use Carb cleaner on the electrodes?
So, repairing forced air oil furnaces is just like being a doctor. Keep replacing parts and trying different things until you hit the one that works. Thanks for the videos.
Those streams looked pretty good Steve. Sort of like me after a night of drinking. Lol. Nice job as usual.
Kyran Speiser thanks for the comment
Im sericing mine own heater and the money I save just trying to figure it out. So far switch and nozzle and it ran fine for 24 hours now it shit off faster. Motor looks easy enough plus my brother does this kind of work and I just have him on what's app t see what I'm doing. Great video I have been telling him that the motor sounds like the fins are worn.
Yeah the newer style "solid state" ignition transformers are a pain in the ass because they get intermittent... Like they work then they dont and usually 95% of the time it's a intermittent transformer. We have a F3 Beckette model with the 51771U ignition transformers get intermittent with our furnace. We have had to replace them every 5-10 years. We have gotten now so we always keep a spare on hand since they go up so frequently.
I had this issue. Turns out it was caused by my burners power vent system. An overgrown shrub was interferring with the vent exhaust flow and intermittently tripping the safety and shutting down the burner. Trimming back the bush fixed the issue.
Thanks Steve for the helpful videos
Great Job Steven
That's why i like your videos,you are very professional
dklucas1 thanks for the connent
He just seems to know what he is doing ! It is as if he has been doing this for a long while!
Did the motor swap actually fix this issue? I don’t see an update. Was it off on safety or just fail to start? Primary control with intermittent issues can be a challenging cause to diagnose too
good video,,
sort of like when you take your car with a squeak to the mechanic and when you get it there it dont squeak no more.
hope you got it ,,
good job good vid
bet you like the challenge of diagnosing those "hidden problems"
nate its fixed i call the guy a few days later all is good
steven lavimoniere let’s be honest, it was because of the replaced coupler and not the motor. Motor had a manual reset overload. If that were intermittently overheating like you suspected. That would trip. Not the primary control
Steve ... would a bad themastat cause such issues ... intermitent ? .. had service callls .. replaced pump nossle etc .. last thing they replaced was the digital themastat... no issue after that ...
You’re the best on UA-cam!!!!! Thank you
I saw someone ask the same question I was going to. "can you use carb cleaner to clean those electrodes?" Don't see why not.
when it works when you are there and not work when you are gone, is called Technicians syndrome. Goodness knows I know . I feel your pain :P
I just had my furnace cleaned. Told the guy it tripped once. He tested the transformer with a screwdriver said it was good. That was a few weeks ago. Now it tripped 2 more times & he wants another service call. I have a relay on the pump the control is a Honeywell R8184G4009 which is old. When I press the reset button it clicks fast the furnace will run & stay running for weeks. The motor is 11 years old. Any ideas?
You are the best...and your little dog too !
Hope you got it Steve, Intermittent problems SUCK..
Arnie Grote this fixed the problem i was right about the old motor
Enjoy watching your videos. I have a question to ask you. Can a fuel pressure gauge be installed permanently on the the fuel pump? One could simply tell a glance as to the output pressure anytime.
I notice you do not use the gasket provided with the Allanson transformer, I once forgot to install it and lived with a low level hum for a few days. It actually resonated through the house.
Hi Steven, I certainly appreciate what your doing with your videos. I have learned how to check a transformer and have replaced that. My parents have an old Heil oil burner that I am trying to get running for them. The have been space heating for the past few years and with a large house that just not enough. When I turn on the breaker the Furnace will fire right up and run a whole cycle bringing the house up to temperature. When the thermostat triggers it to start again it will turn on the blower for the burn chamber and fuel but no ignition. Every time I allow the heater to go 20 mins or so without any electric and then turn the breaker back on it fires perfect. What should I look at next
Bet your OIL Supply line was partially clogged! The time you waited allowed the line to fill back up!
That burner really is Beckett AF.
Excellent video you posted on UA-cam on know it 2018 but just found. Thanks
If the motor has a manual reset overload. Why would you think it’s the motor without that overload being tripped?
Another fine job Steve thanks for sharing!!!
Harry Dickson thanks harry my friend
I can’t get my copper fuel line from the pump to the burner to stop leaking fuel at the burner, where it screws into the igniter. Tried tightening it leak got better but still there, think I need to replace the copper line?
My fuel oil is coming out frothy. Pump is a year old. Tank is above boiler. Can't figure out why fuel is doing this. Checked flare nut at tank appears good( out of top of tank). Would sludge do this? Wondering if I should blow the line back to tank.
Great job Steve. I've been reading the comments here and people blame the electronic igniters. the older callin electronic igniters had a built in thermal overload that would trip than it would reset itself.
RICH Murphy i do not buy or use electronic transformers any more .had a lot of problems with them
Great job and video like always
where would you start if you oil flow has air in it it seems like my oil flow has air in it boiler runs but trips and restarts itself right away
Steve..as a follow-up....did it solve the problem...no callback to fix again?
All the parts of my burner are new the pump the transformer the electros the nozze line the controller the cad cell and my burner still ahuts off after 50 sec what could be the problem??
sera de gran utilidad esta demostración. en lo cotidiano.
How is the motor bad if it's running? From getting warm? Diagnosis by replacement??
My furnace won't come on unless I tap the ignition coil primary
I have the same issue with my oil burner. it trips frequently ( 2 to 3 times a day). my service guy replaced oil filter, nozzle, motor and the trip relay box and cleaned the fuel line. nothing changed the furnace still tripping. i am tired of calling this service guy and i am thinking to change him. and advice to why i have this issue. According to the service man the flame looks good no black smoke bump is good. so what the heck is wrong with my furnace help please
Could be weak transformer, dirty or weak cad cell, dirty/misadjusted electrodes, or low fuel pressure. Time to find a better service guy.....
My furance didnt trip and came down to forty gallon oil on the floor any idea why this would happen?
air in the fuel line? does your fuel line goes up then down to the furnace? Replace the transformer and electrodes first.
Ever figure out what the issue was?
Did he replace the ignition transformer,it could be weak and causing it to shutdown every couple days.Burner might start with delay ignition sometimes
We have same oil burner type unit. It works when the tech is here then after he leaves and temperature gets up then it shuts off after it tries coming back on it won’t light. What could be the problem
I too have a similar system. My tank is outside and i believe that because there is a lot of sludge in my tank and my tank is under the ground. Is there any cleaning solution that i can use perhaps once a month that i can pour into my tank outside?
I am taking the tank out of the ground, the new tank will be a gravity flow system to the burner, should I have a one way valve between the tank and the burner in case I have a leak so it won't drain all the fuel out of the tank in my garage? If I do what kind of valve and where are they sold?
Just curious , I’ve noticed in a few videos , do you like to clean off the brass and the area under the nozzle adapter??
finally, i understand why you rub the electrodes clean with your hands, feeling for cracks
I was wondering why too. They are only $10 for a new set.
Enjoyed the video.. my question is can the motor run outside the boiler and check amperes?
just had a brand new beckett installed and something not quite right...bled it and it fires up nice then runs a long cycle and shuts off...wont start back up unless its bled again...been going on all week. I am getting white fuzzy air in line...bleed it clean fire it up same thing...runs a full cycle shuts off wont fire back up unless bled. all new filters and gaskets on tank end. acts like its getting air from somewhere or a pump issue . I also bled filter at tank so its not that end of things. like pump not holding prime.only thing i havent bled is that short line at pump.
blows great heat while its running. but appears to run to long before cycle quits is another observation
I'm having the same exact problem, except possibly for the overrunning issue. This all started after the hot water heater was replaced. Trips daily. Reset either lights and then times out and shuts off, or it won't light until I bleed the line (lots of foam at first). After a bleed, it seems to stay on I believe 100% of the time. I see no leaks which I figure would show where air is entering the lines. Plumber says there's no nozzle shut off on my system (heard another video talk about some form of nozzle shut off that prevents air from being sucked in at the nozzle when the system shuts off), but I don't have that. Can't figure where air is entering the system.
I replaced the re-set box with red button and that resolved the problem... it was mind boggling up until that point
I’m learning that this boxes are sensitive and any major work jostles it around you might as well replace it because it’s going to act up
my blast tube get oil and it drips down to bottom of the burner and motor. I did all, replaced the nozzle, set the electrode, but keep seeing oil at the beginning of blast tube. I can't really tell where the oil's come from, but I do see it. Any suggestion?
so was it the motor or what?
Did you install a used motor and blade it looked old
albahroe12 it was a new motor with a blade on it . i installed on another job i didn't need but it was new .
steven lavimoniere so was it the motor that was bad did you ever get a call from the customer again
Hi Steve I've been without heat for several days, I have a Beckett similar to this one on the video. My oil furnace trips out every 1-4 minutes. I have had done a tune up, new pump, in 2017 got a new tranformer, nozzle system have been cleaned, cad cell looks clean and reads well, lines have been bleed, it come out good and red I even placed a new reset box, but still trips out. The only thing I see that is left it's my motor. My motor starts and burner flames right away. My motor reset button popped out once but continued to start after I pressed the reset. However seeing this video it seemed like the motor started aswell and still the motor was bad. I need help not sure what to do, I even hard wired the motor for approx 2 min, to see if it tripped out and it didn't dont know if I should of hard wired for longer, but however I NEED HELP!!! Love your videos Steve il wait your response. Thanks God bless!!
Update?
And? What was it?
@@genecurrivan2799 well after all that, can't believe it has been 4yrs already, thanks for your response 🤣, but a tigerloop fixed all my problems 🙋♂️
Steve was it the motor? I am going through the same thing but every day.i have changed everything except the motor?
QUIET MONEY PRODUCTIONS technicians couldn’t figured it out,in the end it was a bad motor!!!
That`s probably got it. I have had a few cracked F3 burner heads that would give intermittent lock out. Some old burners are just enough off spec on every thing they should be set upon with a hammer and put out of their misery. Enjoyed the video.
Boiler Teardown this fixed the issue .i called the guy after 2 days .no more problem .
Mines doing the same thing, I get a hard lockout and reads TT Closed Limit Closed. I replace the transformer, cad eye, and primary control. It runs for a day and lock out then I have to reset it. The motor sounds fine but could it be bad and is that the problem?
I don't like a part change guy. They just keep changing parts till it works. I Would have started with the eye. dirty eye happens a lot
Did the motor repair solve the issue?
Ur info is good. BUT, you should adjust the camera so we could see all what ur hands are doing too. Seeing oil pouring into a container is blah.
My system was just tuned up a month ago. The last couple days I have to hit the reset button to get it to fire up... It runs fine... Later when it cools back down it doesn't kick on automatically like it should via the thermostat... So I gotta go hit the button again... Again, runs fine after this... What is my problem??
call back the guy that just did the service
Hi Steve, my burner is tripping out every ten minutes. The pump is working (plenty of flow), I replaced the transformer, nozzle and electrodes along with doing the annual cleaning this summer. What do you think is kicking out the the burner? From this video it seems like it might be the motor...
+Carlos Umana what it and see what it does could be a pump. sometimes its running to lean can do that . every 10 minites i would have to be there looking at it to make a ruling on it
Why didnt you use a control or flame detector tester?
What's the difference between the AF and the AFG Becketts? And which do you prefer?
Michael Padovani the fan is different af has a wide fan . afg as a small fan buy plastic housing to help with air flow
@@oharedwa7792 some times the ohms and amp draw is normal. But a bearing starting to go bad can heat up and cause drag on the motor. Once that happens, amps will rise, but you need to be there to catch it. That will cause the motor to over heat and shut down. Once everything cools down and the OL resets, all is normal again for a little while. Although I agree checking amperage draw and ohms is standard procedure, it won't ALWAYS reveal an intermittent problem.
Maybe that's wrong with mine. Sometimes I run a week before it wont start in the morning and trips out. Lately its like everyday. Usually once reset it fine for a while. I wouldn't mind but I don't have inside access to the basement lol .
What was it then? Was it the motor? Thx
I use to work on oil fired boilers years ago. We had one that would go off several times. Man we were stumped as to what might be happening? Finally after running it off and on several times, the safety control was tripping like a minute after the unit shut down, like it was thinking the burner was running with no fire, then trip out.
What kind of unit is it?
I bet the primary was shot, possible electric surge or power outage corrupts the primaries circuits and if you ohm test the cad cell FF terminals and it jumps to 1600 and above it kills itself thinking there’s no fire seen by the cad cell eye. Unfortunately there’s a few things that can be the issue so it can be frustrating to narrow down which one. Been there done that.
What's that red button on the blower motor?
squirrel cage keeps sticking...how do I know if it's the motor or the pump?
always great video and appreciated
Rite under Neath that box rite there mines leaking any suggestions
At the end of the vid it cut to the fire, I thought... Oh damn it wasn't the motor! Ha
I'm here trying to get my boiler back on. I'm locked out, reset button stays yellow, it's a new motor and reset. need help thank you
Keith Sheppard hold reset for 45 seconds
Looks good, see what happens...
Jordan Berghaus nothing surprices me
steve I want to change over to anew AF#9 can't find one will a #10 work?
Was the turbulator crusted ?
Hello Steve. Quick question. I was told by my tech, that the transformer continues to arc throughout the burn cycle. I said I didn’t think so, but figured I’d ask the pro.
Wouldn’t that transformer overheat running all that amperage constantly? Doesn’t the CAD cell recognize flame and A.) keep the pump on, and B.) stop the “arc” needed to ignite the fuel?
Thanks for the informative videos, I’m late to your channel but slowly catching up on the content.
The newer "Intermittent Primary Oil Ignition" (aka. relay box) have the arc cut-out capability (marked by separate wires to the motor, valve, transformer). The older relay boxes like the Honeywell R8184 that have only three wires (black, white orange) are always on (easily confirmed by the fact there is only one wire (orange) that powers the motor, transformer and valve). Just went through that exercise 2 weeks ago.
Transformer puts out high voltage 10,000 volts to 14k depending on model but they aren’t high amperage which would create a lot of heat. They don’t get hot like you’re thinking..
How much is the motor?
The first motor had no capacitor dome on it. The new motor had a capacitor dome. Why? Which one is better?
Old motor uses a start capacitor with a set of contacts that open, dropping the cap out once it gets up to speed. New motor is the revised PSC style that’s supposed to be more efficient, and doesn’t have contacts to jam, or wear out.