Hi Thaonguyen -sp7.xf thank you very much you’ll be all right just take your time. Don’t rush you got this brother. Thank you for watching. I appreciate you.
Don't hesitate its possible. Just watch the video applicable to your car problem; make a list of the tool and items needed; take it step by step and your good.
Someone removed that bolt on the bearing carrier before, it’s supposed to have a rubber plug that goes in before the bolt and the bolt pushes it against the bearing race
@Marty09933 thank you it went great! A tip I came across was taking the old boot off the axle and using a pair of vise grips to hold it in place to act as a hammer rod to pull it out the axle from the transmission. Thank you for all that you do and your videos!
My snap ring for driver side holding it to that bracket with that mystery bolt is stuck I sprayed pb blaster for 4 days I can't get it out without braking it so ima pick one up from the autoparts and give it a go I hope it cv pops out easy I wanna get it out and new one in it's to hot out here in florida
Hi prtbone78 wow in Florida. I bet it’s hot. Yes if they have that snap ring available go ahead and break the other one and hopefully that CV axle will just pop out easy good luck, brother and thank you for watching. I really appreciate you.
@Marty09933 yessir today will be 97 great haha but yes wasn't sure if will be able to break it out I can move bottom part of it and wedge a screw driver to pop out and im sure breakout of it if not all but didn't have replacement woth that being said I'm sure it won't come out that easy being that the snap ring is somewhat rusted in there we see appreciate your reply amd video have an awe holiday
Oh and I think now I know why that mystery bolt is there for because for a fact don't need to take it out in oder to take the cv out my guess for my case remove amd spray some pb blaster well rust penetrant in and so it can maybe loosen that bad boy up I'm gonna try that since I sprayed the hell out of it already amd can't get snap ring out I doubt me spraying loosened cv for removal maybe if spray some in that bolt hole I can get some in there to hopefully do something
@@prtbone78 hey that’s a good idea. I hope it works and I hope that sucker comes out easy. I know it can be frustrating with those CV axles Don’t wanna come out. Good luck, my brother you’re doing a great job.
Marty, part of the "bolt" is missing. The 14mm (M10x1.25mm) impingement bolt (Toyota part no. 90119-10461) actually consist of two pieces: (1) the 14mm bolt with a dimple in the end and (2) the rubber impingement disk, measuring 8.8mm in diameter by 3.3mm thick with a nipple on one side. When the impingement bolt is fastened into the carrier bearing bracket, the rubber disk impinges on the outer race of the carrier bearing, preventing it from spinning within the bracket, the nipple of the disk placed within the dimple of the bolt preventing it from slipping off the bolt and becoming free in the passage around the carrier bearing. That stated, having replaced the passenger-side CV axle of a 2005 Toyota Sienna XLE (FWD), I exploited the M10x1.25mm threaded-hole which leads to the passage around the carrier bearing by temporarily replacing the bolt with a M10x1.25 straight non-tapered Zerk fitting and filling it up with Lucas Oil Red “N” Tacky grease before and after the CV axle replacement. I employed a LockNLube LNL353 grease gun, a gun capable of developing 8,000 psi to fill the passage to overflowing. I believe filling the passage with grease made it easier to pound-out the rusted bearing outer race and I believe filling it afterward will inhibit the rusting process in the future, enabling a non-destructive means of removing the passenger-side CV axle.
I’m catching hell with the carrier bearing right now, have tried heat, pounding with hammer, soaked with penetrating oil, beat it some more…etc… I watched another video where someone took out the bottom screw that did nothing to hold the carrier bearing and used a longer screw to break the bearing and then it came out. I tried same thing, still no results to get it out. Any ideas?
Hi the bar 1985 wow go ahead and take out that screw just for giggles and shits and see if it does anything it must be stuck on their good. I had one vehicle like that when I worked at a shop but we had a lift so we used the torch and heated it up till it turned cherry red, and then it finally came out, that’s the only advice I can give you brother shoot it with penetrating oil saturated and you might have to leave it overnight and hopefully it’ll come out the next day that penetrating oil overnight does wonders for me
Hi killasmoke thank you I’m glad it helped you. You got this brother just take your time and yes I did have to add fluid and it should have a dipstick in the engine bay where you can add fluid. Thank you for watching. I really appreciate you brother.
If you mark the cam bolt before removing, then put it back in the same cam position and you should be fine. If you dont you could throw off your camber angle which will need alignment.
Bought me cardone they said for my yr and drivetrain went to put in today they dont mach up mind you i purchased them 3 yrs ago didnt need them but now i do rock auto has same with same part number how if they dont match driver sode is about 4 inches to short i somewhat measured passenger side got an estimate of 50 inches long cardone one is like 40 or a little over.. i cannot put them on itll be a disaster...
Hi @prtbone78 look at them closely and if the ends look the same everything looks the same before you put them on push them in. Sometimes they extend just push it in and see if that will be the same length If not, yes you’ll have to go buy new ones and you’re gonna have to take a loss on those if you can’t return them thank you for watching. I appreciate you.
@Marty09933 yes that's the thing length is off... someone told me put part to go into the wheel hub swap with oem one. Part to go into transmission side matches... today I went and pulled it put of my trunk I pulled it to stretch it looks like it might be right my brother said it should be correct length without pulling it ... he said it might need that missing length for when turn it doesn't pop out of casing if makes sense like it won't have the correct housing length and them ball bearings might not have space to stay in casing around them
@@prtbone78 yes I just helped a gentleman at the Walmart parking lot that was broke down. He was having a hard time putting the CV axles in so I helped him and he told me he thought it was the wrong one. The one he bought was longer. The splines that go to the transmission and the ones that go to the hub, they look the same, so I told him to stand it up on the concrete and pushed both of them down and then they were the same length .just sometime one is stretched out a little bit more than the other one from the shipment and it looks like it’s longer but just push them down. stand it up on the concrete and push it down and it should be the same size but if you don’t feel comfortable with that, then see if you can find another one
@Marty09933 I get that but new one looks shorter sorry might have not mentioned that also the side that goes into the hub splines don't seem correct length either
Hey man, what can you do for a slow leaking head gasket, just the rear bank, 07 Sienna V6 3.5 without replacing the gasket. Is there anything I can pour into the radiator that will seal it up? Thx
Excellent pictorial. Camera focused on point of discussion. Thank you sir.
Hi @@victorebolum1583 you’re very welcome brother. So glad you like the video and thank you for watching. I appreciate you.
You are truly a good Mechanic Teacher. I learned alot, but I dont have the gut to do it myself. I wish you live near by to fix it for me.
Hi Thaonguyen -sp7.xf thank you very much you’ll be all right just take your time. Don’t rush you got this brother. Thank you for watching. I appreciate you.
❤@@Marty09933
Don't hesitate its possible. Just watch the video applicable to your car problem; make a list of the tool and items needed; take it step by step and your good.
Someone removed that bolt on the bearing carrier before, it’s supposed to have a rubber plug that goes in before the bolt and the bolt pushes it against the bearing race
Hi toddlinamen thank you for your comment. I appreciate that and thank you for watching. I appreciate you.
Great video. Its good that he takes the time to explain what he is doing.
Hi Mark Oppelt thank you sir so glad you liked it and thank you for watching i appreciate you
that lower bolt on the bearing housing braket suppose to have a rubber inside to keep the outer bearing outer race from spinning.
Great job explaining step by step
Hi At Ab thank you and thank you for watching I appreciate you
Great video well done
Hi Bryan Kimmell thank you and thank you for watching i really appreciate you
Bro i appreciate you, vet here and not a mechanic so i appreciate your thought pattern and help.
Hi rob Semper Fi Usmc brother what branch where you in ? Thank you for your service. And thank you for watching. I appreciate you.
@@Marty09933 Semper fi brother, Army 11b here lol so you can see why I need videos like yours 🤣
@@rob5159 lol so glad my video could help. Good luck.
@Marty09933 thank you it went great! A tip I came across was taking the old boot off the axle and using a pair of vise grips to hold it in place to act as a hammer rod to pull it out the axle from the transmission. Thank you for all that you do and your videos!
@@rob5159 awesome I’m glad you got it fixed. Great job and thank you so much. I really appreciate you brother.
Thank you
Hi Jose Robeldo your welcome and thank you for watching I really appreciate you
My snap ring for driver side holding it to that bracket with that mystery bolt is stuck I sprayed pb blaster for 4 days I can't get it out without braking it so ima pick one up from the autoparts and give it a go I hope it cv pops out easy I wanna get it out and new one in it's to hot out here in florida
Hi prtbone78 wow in Florida. I bet it’s hot. Yes if they have that snap ring available go ahead and break the other one and hopefully that CV axle will just pop out easy good luck, brother and thank you for watching. I really appreciate you.
@Marty09933 yessir today will be 97 great haha but yes wasn't sure if will be able to break it out I can move bottom part of it and wedge a screw driver to pop out and im sure breakout of it if not all but didn't have replacement woth that being said I'm sure it won't come out that easy being that the snap ring is somewhat rusted in there we see appreciate your reply amd video have an awe holiday
Oh and I think now I know why that mystery bolt is there for because for a fact don't need to take it out in oder to take the cv out my guess for my case remove amd spray some pb blaster well rust penetrant in and so it can maybe loosen that bad boy up I'm gonna try that since I sprayed the hell out of it already amd can't get snap ring out I doubt me spraying loosened cv for removal maybe if spray some in that bolt hole I can get some in there to hopefully do something
@@prtbone78 hey that’s a good idea. I hope it works and I hope that sucker comes out easy. I know it can be frustrating with those CV axles Don’t wanna come out. Good luck, my brother you’re doing a great job.
@@Marty09933 definitely appreciate you 🙏
Marty, part of the "bolt" is missing. The 14mm (M10x1.25mm) impingement bolt (Toyota part no. 90119-10461) actually consist of two pieces: (1) the 14mm bolt with a dimple in the end and (2) the rubber impingement disk, measuring 8.8mm in diameter by 3.3mm thick with a nipple on one side. When the impingement bolt is fastened into the carrier bearing bracket, the rubber disk impinges on the outer race of the carrier bearing, preventing it from spinning within the bracket, the nipple of the disk placed within the dimple of the bolt preventing it from slipping off the bolt and becoming free in the passage around the carrier bearing.
That stated, having replaced the passenger-side CV axle of a 2005 Toyota Sienna XLE (FWD), I exploited the M10x1.25mm threaded-hole which leads to the passage around the carrier bearing by temporarily replacing the bolt with a M10x1.25 straight non-tapered Zerk fitting and filling it up with Lucas Oil Red “N” Tacky grease before and after the CV axle replacement. I employed a LockNLube LNL353 grease gun, a gun capable of developing 8,000 psi to fill the passage to overflowing. I believe filling the passage with grease made it easier to pound-out the rusted bearing outer race and I believe filling it afterward will inhibit the rusting process in the future, enabling a non-destructive means of removing the passenger-side CV axle.
Hi Armchair Tin-Kicker thank you brother for the info and thanks for watching i appreciate you
I’m catching hell with the carrier bearing right now, have tried heat, pounding with hammer, soaked with penetrating oil, beat it some more…etc… I watched another video where someone took out the bottom screw that did nothing to hold the carrier bearing and used a longer screw to break the bearing and then it came out. I tried same thing, still no results to get it out. Any ideas?
Hi the bar 1985 wow go ahead and take out that screw just for giggles and shits and see if it does anything it must be stuck on their good. I had one vehicle like that when I worked at a shop but we had a lift so we used the torch and heated it up till it turned cherry red, and then it finally came out, that’s the only advice I can give you brother shoot it with penetrating oil saturated and you might have to leave it overnight and hopefully it’ll come out the next day that penetrating oil overnight does wonders for me
You ever get that sucker popped out?
Awesome video you inspired me to do it on my own 🙏 bless you! Did you have to re add fluid to tranny? I’m assuming yes. If so where to add
Hi killasmoke thank you I’m glad it helped you. You got this brother just take your time and yes I did have to add fluid and it should have a dipstick in the engine bay where you can add fluid. Thank you for watching. I really appreciate you brother.
Thanks for the reply you’re a life saver 🙏
@@killasmoke2142 you’re very welcome and thank you again
👍👍🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦🔧🔧✌️
Brian Biggs thank you and thanks for watching. I appreciate you.
Does the bit of tranny fluid leaking need to be replaced or no? Great video btw
Mottyb yes you always wanna replace whatever spills even if it’s a little bit it probably won’t hurt the car but you wanna go ahead and top it off
do you need an alignment after doing this?
Hi chocotoynk no you should be fine and thank you for watching. I appreciate you.
If you mark the cam bolt before removing, then put it back in the same cam position and you should be fine. If you dont you could throw off your camber angle which will need alignment.
@@MN-sc2uz I didn't know these Van's had camber
Where is your shop located in Texas?
Hi Motty B i’m located in Amarillo Texas
Motty B thanks for watching. I really appreciate you.
Bought me cardone they said for my yr and drivetrain went to put in today they dont mach up mind you i purchased them 3 yrs ago didnt need them but now i do rock auto has same with same part number how if they dont match driver sode is about 4 inches to short i somewhat measured passenger side got an estimate of 50 inches long cardone one is like 40 or a little over.. i cannot put them on itll be a disaster...
Hi @prtbone78 look at them closely and if the ends look the same everything looks the same before you put them on push them in. Sometimes they extend just push it in and see if that will be the same length If not, yes you’ll have to go buy new ones and you’re gonna have to take a loss on those if you can’t return them thank you for watching. I appreciate you.
@Marty09933 yes that's the thing length is off... someone told me put part to go into the wheel hub swap with oem one. Part to go into transmission side matches... today I went and pulled it put of my trunk I pulled it to stretch it looks like it might be right my brother said it should be correct length without pulling it ... he said it might need that missing length for when turn it doesn't pop out of casing if makes sense like it won't have the correct housing length and them ball bearings might not have space to stay in casing around them
@@Marty09933 what I'm saying it the ones I bought look shorter
@@prtbone78 yes I just helped a gentleman at the Walmart parking lot that was broke down. He was having a hard time putting the CV axles in so I helped him and he told me he thought it was the wrong one. The one he bought was longer. The splines that go to the transmission and the ones that go to the hub, they look the same, so I told him to stand it up on the concrete and pushed both of them down and then they were the same length .just sometime one is stretched out a little bit more than the other one from the shipment and it looks like it’s longer but just push them down. stand it up on the concrete and push it down and it should be the same size but if you don’t feel comfortable with that, then see if you can find another one
@Marty09933 I get that but new one looks shorter sorry might have not mentioned that also the side that goes into the hub splines don't seem correct length either
Hey man, what can you do for a slow leaking head gasket, just the rear bank, 07 Sienna V6 3.5 without replacing the gasket. Is there anything I can pour into the radiator that will seal it up? Thx
Hi chilitoday yes sir Blue devil head gasket sealer. i did a video on it on a Cadillac thank you for watching i appreciate you
Runnin your suck! Lol
chilitoday LOL ...www.bing.com/th?id=OP.U7NJ2zWbX1QM3g474C474&o=5&pid=21.1&w=130&h=176&qlt=100&dpr=1&bw=6&bc=FFFFFF&c=17
i buy the big can at Oreily's it cost more like $80.00