Toyota Lexus CV Axle Fiasco
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- Опубліковано 19 гру 2024
- Some Toyota and Lexus vehicles have a carrier bearing on the CV axle on the passenger side. These can rust up and on this 2008 Lexus ES350 when it wouldn't pound out, I had to cut it out to complete the job properly. Watch how we did it.
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The best 70-100 dollar you can spend is to get a new bracket before this job, and Dremel cut the old bracket (make a cut to the width of the bracket where the bearing sit), literally 5 min and that bearing will be out. This is what I learned after spending 3 days hammering , using slide hammer, heat , air hammer, chisel, pry bar, and unable to cut the old cv using sawzall and diablo carbide blade, all of it) . Just go get a new bracket and cut old one off. You will spend same money on material, frustration and on time trying to get this out any other way. Dont cut the shaft (home DIY guys will not be able to cut the shaft any way especially on Avalon because there is no room) cut the bracket and it will be out. Part number is Dorman 926-193 is for Avalon 2008. You are welcome.
Replaced a lot of these working at Toyota and have never had to resort to cutting the shaft. There are a few different ways to get around the bracket dowels. Easiest way is to loosen the bolts on the housing so the housing moves slightly, as you only actually need about 1-degree of flex for it to get off the pins. Another way some guys do it is to run a thin saw blade up there to cut the the dowels. We always grind them off anyway before putting the bracket back. When installing the bearing bracket back on the new shaft, it works best to put a little lube on the inside of the hangar so the bearing slides in better. Also didn't see ya put the rubber-tipped bolt back in to hold the bearing. That's a needed part, keeps torque from spinning the bearing in the bracket.
I have been working on Toyota’s and Lexus ‘s for 15 years In cold weather climates with rust and have never had to do this. Just use an air hammer and a pry bar.
Do you just hit the carrier?
Good for you. after hours of labour, even getting a longer bolt and cracking the bearing cup in the carrrier it still would not move.
Sawzall 10 minutes and Out.
PIece could not be knocked out, I had to punch individual ball bearings out where the Circlip legs are untill it fell out, then punch out the remains of the cup. Unbelievable corrosion much like Mill Scale. Stupid setup.
I have an engine pulled where I had to cut the axle shaft I still cannot get this bracket and bearing separated and there’s all the room in the world. Where do you take the air hammer too
@@Nomoreendlesswars Right at the inner hub. Beat it to death with an air hammer/chisel.
@@briansmobile1 ua-cam.com/video/99SpwwzgJik/v-deo.htmlm27s
If it has the little 12mm bolt in the bracket, take it out and force a thick penetrant into it. Then re-tighten the bolt. Keep doing this until you see penetrant ooze around the edge of the bearing. Then you can do this without cutting anything and with bearing support mounted to the block. It's kind of like using paper to eject a pilot bearing.
Stephen Daniel paper trick is genius!
That's brilliant! I'd love to try it on the next one. When I first started reading, I thought you were talking about removing the 3 carrier bolts. I face palmed and then heard you out anyway. Glad I did!
When you got the bearing out, and I saw that hole in the carrier, I was thinking a similar thing.. maybe he could have put grease in the hole and hammered something in to push it around, but then again, it's already rusty and seized in, and you can't really force the lube around to the other side.
briansmobile1 lol thanks. It works. If it's really really bad then you might be doing it your way anyway.
I've also read that heat and beeswax works well. Heat the part, turn the hole so that the wax won't run out, fill with beeswax (heat will draw it in), remove CV carrier bearing from carrier. You do not need to heat it nearly as hot as you did. Many home mechanics don't have a plasma cutter, which has other dangers, and you're at a point of no return if you start cutting and fail.
2019 I changed the motor mount on my 1997 Avalon where the carrier bearing run through it. Had to beat it on with a sledge hammer. 3 years later the boot tore so I decided to change the whole axle. Damaged the first one from rock auto so I tried to get an oem they said a year out so I got another after market on from autozone. It lasted 1000 miles and came apart. Had it towed to a trans shop. They put an o'Reilly gsp axle in and they blew out the seal on the carrier bearing. Finally got an oem axle and their mechanic drove the hold down bolt into the bearing. So they refunded my money and I purchase another axle. Number 5. I'm going to slightly clean out the motor mount so it doesn't need to be beat on so hard. Your video shows me that it doesn't need to be so freaking tight. Wish me luck.
I am so glad you posted this. We just bought a mostly cherry 2004 Solara that needed an axle and a tune up. I am no slouch as a mechanic but had to punt and ask for the help of a retired mechanic to get this one done. I don’t have a plasma cutter but used a pry bar to get the bracket a slightly away from the back of the engine so I could slip a hacksaw blade and cut the dowels down a little bit enough so that I could hammer the axle out with the pressed in bearing. After that I put the bracket with the bearing of ice and hammered it out. It was quite a job. It’s supposed to be one hour job but it turned into 2 days . I wish I had watched your video before I tried the job thinking it was just gonna be a run-of-the-mill routine axle change.
I was having the same issue on my rx400h. NY salted streets and living by the ocean made it worse. I tried heat, air hammer, 3ft prybar, slide hammer, my neighbor even came with his jack hammer. It was not budging an inch. I ended up cutting it off with a sawzall, had to also cut that canister off too to get to the bolt on the bracket. After I took it off I still couldn't remove it from the bracket. I was so frustrated I just went to the dealer for a new bracket. If you live in an area with bad winters or sand, be prepared when you take this project on. If you try for an hour and can't get it to budge just cut it off, don't waste days like I did trying not to go the hillbilly route.
Unlike others, I agree with your approach. As I have become older, I refuse to fight rust/corrosion as much as possible. Cut the axle, press it out on the shop press. Don’t have a shop press? Take it to the closest garage/shop and pay them $10-20 to press it out. Don’t waist time. Beating on it in situ is not without risk of creating new problems. Keep it classy.
I cut a slit on the carrier bearing bracket and use a pry bar to wedge in it. It breaks free and slides out. If you order a Toyota one it comes with the bracket
Nice!!
@@stefanczechorskidds8435 Coming with the bracket is definitely a plus. Saves people a lot of trouble.
Upon replacing the pass. side on my 05 camry, I put some nickel antisieze in the housing so the next job won't be trouble.
I saw episode 3, it was really great to see. Those guys after you talked about your charitable foundation with passion, they were all like give the money to Brian's. It was very touching.
That really touched me. Just awesome.
I did this on my ES300. Had to use a grinder to cut the axle to get it out. I’ve seen people use a slide hammer on the far end to get them out. It was a big job to get that axle out. It’s not a small feat. Once I got the axle cut, I was able to get the motor mount out and hammer the axle out.
yea i had to same thing on a camry axle seized in the Carrier cut the axle out with a 4 inch straight die grinder
Thanks for the VERY unique video. There is a tool that is SPECIFICALLY made for this (needs a slide hammer attached to it) and will put a link at end of comment. A few other things, I think the reason it was SOOOO difficult to hammer out was probably because you cut the pipe with torch (heating / expanding the pipe & bearing the most while the bracket remained cooler... the reverse of loosening it). I thought that the pins were weird too but think after watching that they are there (in anticipation of this issue) to support and make sure the bolt threads do not get destroyed if any pounding is done to remove the axle. Also, I saw on another video where a guy wrapped a "tie down" around the axle between the bearing and CV and ran the strap through the center of the hub (putting the ratchet mechanism outside the hub. Then he simply tightened the tie down against the still attached hub and it (the rusted carrier bearing and axle) simply popped out after some ratcheting. On another, a guy just used a chisel and a hammer against the trans side of the CV (and MAYBE a little on the bearing to???) and the rusted bearing came out after some "persuasion". Here is the tool SPECIFICALLY designed to make this easier (it can be rented for free too). www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/tools---equipment/rental-tools/brake--tire---wheel-rental-tools/749f067e140e/rental-tools-evertough-front-wheel-drive-axle-puller-adapter/ren1/67102/v/a/28868/automotive-car-2008-toyota-avalon
I tried that slide hammer for 3 days it would not budge
Had this same issue with a V6 Camry. Winning always feels good. Way to go Brian!
Thanks buddy!
I've been a subscriber of your channel for a while already. I love your videos and the way you talk on your videos or describe the whys.. is actually very professional. No profanities nor insults. Along with Charles at S.M.A, Chrisfix, Eric... (whom I miss). Keep up the good work and good videos. My hat's up for you.
Thank you!
Good video.. I've done so many of these and found that cutting the axle (and sometimes replacing the carrier) is the easiest way. If you don't have an access to a torch a carbide tipped sawzall blade works just as well
Thanks
You just got to remove the bolts and seal on the carrier bearing bracket. Removing the seal after removing the bolts is crucial. I thought mine was free and it wasn't. Got the seal broke and bam! CV axle slid right out. After you get it out, use a torch, pb, and a sledge. Just clean it after
I could not believe when I got out the three bolts on the bracket cuz I used a belt sander where I can get to that one that's almost impossible and then to my dismay it was sure enough hitting the axle and it wouldn't come out all the way and then there were these lineup pins on the bracket that caused me some frustration only then did I watch your video I don't have a plasma cutter but I have a Sawzall! You know us men folk hate to ask for directions unless we're really really lost!!! Thanks for the video. 06 sienna job that i thought would take 2 hours!
I just blasted a longer bolt into that bottom hole with my harbor freight electric impact after taking out the little one that holds it in place. It busted the bearing into pieces right in there, and I then just popped it out with a prybar. That rust is brutal.
did this trick today here in Illinois , worked well.
I’ve heard that this is actually what it’s intended purpose is but who knows. It’s good to know though
Great job Brian! Love the bonus footage! You'd be a fun guy to ski with I am sure. I am doing my axles this next weekend. Went to a Toyota stealership for an alignment after doing control arms and tie rod ends came back home removed tire week later and the CV joint boot was totally blown out grease everywhere on passenger side. Make your own assessment - 200k miles/15 year old vehicle, never replaced axles, photo of axle and boot area being fine the morning of the alignment job as I finished my work on other items and all the sudden the boot is blown out. Then I looked at the multi point inspection sheet and I see axle with a 'will need work in the future' checked off. Now granted, I should have replaced them probably when I did control arms but that dealership definitely made that boot break when they were working on it. Also, not one of the alignment bolts were moved since I marked their position with paint. Alignment was not too far off to begin with but how would you align a car when those have not been loosened? Thanks again! Great work
If it’s Toyota you don’t need to replace axle ever. I owned camry prius lexus sienna all of them are with over 240K miles.
Even prius was 425K mile never replaced an axle 😁
I just heat the bracket with a torch then hit the axle with the air hammer and it usually comes out .
Air hammer is how I do them as well
I'm sure he tried
At the dealership, if you hit the bottom of bracket with a air hammer it has ALWAYS Walked out. This is how we did it at Toyota. Never had any issues with these style of axles.
Thanks for the tip. I've done that on older ones or just pulled the bolts to the carrier and it came out that way. This one was special.
I am also in Texas, so we dont have any rust lol
Kurt Kennedy yup that's how I do it. Air hammer and pry bar. Comes out every time
After removing the bearing bolt, I used a spade end on the hammer-drill to chisel it out and it quickly came off. No cutting required.
Where at on the bracket
I had to go to episode 3 of the pull a part challenge, evidently I missed it. It brought a tear to my eye, too.
Looks like the ends on the tube are friction stir welded onto there, to get the hollow rod with the machined ends. The rust at the ends is a good indication of where the stir weld is.
I heated and soaked bearing with pen oil then used air chisel to blast bearing out of the bracket after taking retaining clip and retention bolt with rubber dot in it did it in the vehicle with rest of axle intact came out pretty easy with air chisel
Amazing fix Brian! It's so great (and satisfying) when a creative , albeit destructive, solution works! Reminds me of your CV-Axle puller tool. Great comment with follow-ups by Stephen Daniel too!
Since Hamlet, this is the worst tragedy I've encountered.
BTW, Diablo makes a TC sawzall blade that cuts these axles to pieces -- drastically faster.
I'm glad I caught you just in time.
The axle on my acura Intgera separates where it goes into the the carrier bearing but I can remove the bolts too with out the axle being in the way, and it has a actually seals to keep the dirt out of the carrier bearing.
Though the two axles half did rust together so i had to remove the whole thing and hammer it apart.
Brutal. I did one on a 04 camry. I couldn't get the bearing out of the bracket. Boss had me order one from the dealer. I normally don't see such rusted on parts here in California but this car came from new jersey. I need to stop complaining about California. I can only imagine dealing with rust issues every day..good job there big guy
I just did that job on my Sienna van, used a sawzall and air die grinder. I cut the bell part off with a torch and then pounded it out in a large vise.
Awe hell. Got the cv axel out. Now the bolts are striped in the motor mount. What a day. Working with minimum space. Whooooo.
Holy crap! I like your style, the sound effects were stellar, at least nobody got a black eye,
Great video. I had the same issue with mine. It was stuck solid. I beat on it with a 3 pound mallet and a long bar for about an hour. I then put an air hammer directly on the back side of the bearing and it popped out in about three minutes. Obviously it destroys the bearing but I was replacing the axle anyway. Just another method to try for us who don't have a cutting torch. Thanks for the video.
Oh boy. A few weeks ago I tried change my passenger cv axel on my 2008 camry v6. (Same engine) and I ended up putting it back together and bringing to my mechanic who had the car on a lift and was able to whack whack it out. What a nightmare.
I had the same problem. Used a carbide sawzall blade to cut mine and remove it.
I've done quite a few of these, mostly Avalons and Highlanders. When I get a stuck one, my Sawzall and a Lenox Laser CT blade goes through the axle like butter. I believe I had to drop the exhaust on one or two, but I don't remember exactly which model and year. Great video!
After taking the snap ring and the 14 m bolt with rubber end out, put your air hammer bit on the carrier and put your prybar between the carrier and the inner joint of the axle while the axle carrier is still bolted in the vehicle. At the same time hit the carrier with the air hammer and pry. Sometimes you need a big pry bar but one person can do this job.
Without cutting the axle that seems to be a small nightmare. Nice fix Brian
Thanks!
well, my 2007 avalon was suppose to be a simple passenger hub knuckle change. guess what ? while removing axle nut, axle threads were boogered up. This means I have to do this job. Brian, thank you for your video. I used a die grinder instead of the plasma cutter. It took 4 hours and a severe beating of the bearing out after it was removed. totally messed up that they put pins in the carrier. just whipped my butt tonight. heading to nappa for a new axle tomorrow morning . thanx .
Thank God a solution for me... thank u so much for posting this, I thought my idea was insane before see it actually happen...
You're welcome! Thanks for the feedback. I could use that today!
Lots of comments here. I'll tell what works if the Toyota/Lexus has been driven in the cold climates with lots of salt. Don't waste your time and money with gimmicks. Cut the damn engine mount/carrier bearing with an angle grinder. Hell, I cut a 2" section out of one and STILL had to pound it 30 times with a BMF hammer. So don't fool around with slide pullers and all the other tricks. If you have to replace the passenger side cv axle, get a replacement engine mount/carrier bearing from a junkyard or buy one on eBay. I found one for $87.00, worth every penny. Next time, even if I had to buy a new one from the dealer it would be worth it.
Heating the bracket with a torch and using an air hammer is a joke. That bracket laughs at an air hammer, slide hammer, torch, the stupid axle popper tool, chains and anything else you throw at it. Do yourself a favor and just replace the damn engine mount/bracket and be done with it, especially if you're doing it with jack stands.
I work for Toyota Motor Company. The dowel pins on the engine block for the mount are only there to make production easier.
Oh I see I watched it a couple of times and it makes a difference which way you rotate the tire.
Hey Brian, Nice job! A trick for the Anti-Seize. Add some synthetic oil in a 1:1 ratio stir the 'clay" off the bottom of the container and next day shake it like it owes you money. Better than new!
"I WANT MY MONEY!!!" lol
Lol!!! That's the way!
Solid improvisational skills! Great work.
Looks like a good way to get it out but probably not the best thing for the seal, and that car is super clean underneath you must be in the Southern or Western states here in the Northeast area everything is rusted together you guys got it much easier in the warm states
I got a replacement carrier bearing housing from the salvage yard.
I have an 05 camry 2.4 and I got the housing off an 09 camry 2.4. It came off pretty easy, but it would not budge off an 06 I tried to retrieve a housing from.
1st Law of Changing Axles : Show NO MERCY
Chant "You are metal... I am man.... I will win."
Toyotas/Lexus have a rubber plug (you see it in your video at 10:07) that pushes against the outer bearing ring which keeps the bearing from completely rotating in the bearing housing. The 14mm bolt presses this rubber plug against the outer ring. There is NO metal (bolt) to metal (outer bearing ring) contact when bolt is installed in the bracket. No one ever mentions this rubber plug or shows it. Might not even have realized it was there because like in your video it remains in place. My recent experience with this rubber plug is that it really needs to be replaced when doing this work. Mine was not flush with the inner surface of the mounting bracket when the bolt was tightened up and bottomed out on its flange. Therefore it I were to reuse it it would not be able to perform its function - keeping the entire bearing from rotating in the mount. I suspect over the years of it being compressed it basically lost what pressure it had when the bolt is tightened. It's function is probably less and less important as the bearing seizes up in the bracket over time anyway. This is an important detail one might miss when doing this work.
I did my axle using a slide hammer and 2 jaw puller which I will post more about very soon. Nothing else worked and I don't have a torch! Worked great but make no mistake, people need to plan on this job taking longer than expected due to this bearing and its removal especially with Toyotas and Lexus. As usual great video Brian. Thanks for posting.
If you gotta cut it, use a a carbide tipped saw on a reciprocating saw. Way less heat and it cuts through it like butter
I have 2009 camry. Both axle boots broke. I had the same issue with the passenger side. Was a pain. I went to a junk yard here in Hawaii and found a match already removed and just sitting on the side waiting for me. Pounded out the axle and paid for the brace or whatyamacallit. Did not want to ruin the original, left it on the car until I had a replacement. Installation of new axle was a pain. But, got 'er done. Oh, I have the original brace in my trunk.
Led Zeppelin T shirt, check. Ron Paul poster, check. Car guy, check. Pilot, check. I think we could be good friends. :) That was a clean under carriage to work around too. Nice to have a guest in the shop once in a while.
Heck ya man!
Ive done the passenger side axle twice nyself, and they slide right out once the clip ring is unlached. The carrier can be removed and replaced if its ruste stuck.
Bloody neat trick putting the sparks back in the metal haha
I couldn't resist. Looks cool huh?
Haha yeah mate!
I took out the exhaust and then was able to get my grinder in there.
With the welder ground on the transmission, I'm glad you did not weld bearings inside the transmission. I have heard old stories of this happening.
I saw the ground cable as well... hope they didn't create a slew of future transaxle bearing issues.
That’s the best plasma cutter I’ve ever seen the sparkle ✨ goes down and goes up. Did it come from harbor freight. Asking for a friend.
I ran across The Air Hammer Vibration technique. Google cv axle Toyota Sienna 20215.
One uses vibration applied perpendicular to the axle -- directly upon the carrier.
After 50-seconds, the axle-bearing assembly will 'walk' right out of its carrier. (!)
You have to watch the video to believe it. Be sitting down.
lol, new balance is the new steel toe. Healthier and smarter mechanics nowadays! great vid!
My son’s 1996 Camry has the same bracket. I wound up cutting the axle with a grinder.
I have to do this job soon...same car, inner boot leaking. Would it possible to separate the inner joint while still in the vehicle? Then I wouldn't have to mess with that bearing and carrier... Is there a snap ring in the inner joint or should it just pull apart once the boot is unclamped?
Better to put ground of cutter closer to shaft or on shaft. Have seen bearings get pitted or welded with that current going though them.
Auto manufacturers new business strategy, “ we build cars no one can repair, coupled with built in obsolescence!!!”
I have had that Black Crowes song in my head for days now even before watching this. Spoooooky....
I had same problem I just air hammered the bearing.
Morning Brian on this cold day.
Good morning! Thanks for B-mobbing the second comment!
The oem tube has a much bigger diameter = bigger torsional stiffness.
Hi. Is it safe to remove that pins 5:32?
Hi there what brand cv axle did you use for the replacement, and what company do you recommend going with that will last because this is fairly big job to do over again
Good job, how much did you save your customer?
Great work and you were able to save the core!
Thanks. The new axle was new, but I always send in the old one anyway.
Did you take the circ clip out?
I install these on the rav4 factory
What is the torque spec for the carrier bearing mount
DO YOU THINK A METAL CUTTING BLADE IN A SAWSALL WOULD HAVE CUT THREW YHE HOLLOW PART, NOT AS FUN BUT PLAUSABLE??
Did it work with a sawzall?
I just removed a passenger side drive shaft on a Scion tC, with MANUAL transmission, the carrier looks similar, with 3 bolts to the engine, but it is a 2 piece design, with 2 smaller bolts connecting the two, so I just needed to take out 2 smaller bolt, and the carrier came apart, and I can slide the drive shaft out. This ES350 design is bad.
Could have just punched the little groove on the inboard housing with a chisel and had it out in 5 min but this works too
Next time remove the pass MM and pull the engine away from the firewall gives you just enough room to get it out. just had the same prob on my sons 00 celica GTS
WHAT TOOLS U USE TO GET THE BRACKET OFF?
FYI, just had a seriously siezed carrier bearing on a 08 Solara, same exact setup. Took 2 people, one air hammering with a long chisel bit on the back of the bearing through the opening between the exhaust pipes, and the other with a huge masonry cold chisel and bfh beating on the axle just past the bearing. Either one wouldn't work independently, not even with heat. But both at the same time tamed that bitch. No cutting required. Hope this helps anyone reading it.
If you have a metal cutter it means you are a good mechanic 😹
Buy a new bracket
You, sir, are a champ. Keep being you.
Thanks!
Please enlighten me: The bearing was rusted in the carrier, I assume the car was a local car where you get winter with snow, but the bottom of the car looked like it came from rust free southwestern USA.
Correct. The rest of the car is pretty rust free. What you didn't see was trying to walk the bearing out with a large hand sledge hammer and a drift. Did not budge at all.
Where are you skiing in the BFATE?
Sundance
Loved the un cutting footage :-) Happy Saint Patty's day Brian.
GIT R DONE!!! Loved how your horns came out at the end when skiing }:-)~
“You can’t wiggle it away from the pins.” Oh yes you can. I spent 3 hours messing around under that Camry (I have no lift) before I pried it off those pins and pulled it right out. So far no sign of damage to the transaxle. Just to see, I took a sledge hammer to the axle to see if I could free it from the bracket. An hour later it was free. It was like it was welded. It banged up the bracket badly. Don’t waste time doing that. Buy a new bracket - about 60-70 dollars.
This replacement was a bitch!
Thanks for showing this. Im assuming people without a plasma cutter may be able to get through that axle with a sawzall. I liked the backwards plasma cutting video sections where the sparks go up! Chris
Thanks Chris! Yeah, even a hack saw if you had to.
Why not use a reciprocating saw?
Very owner service friendly. lol Great work!
Is that your Look Bicycle?Beautiful.
Why did you replace the axle to begin with?
Boot failure.
I know your the man bit I've never had to do this to a Toyota I just heat the bearing keeper an push it it with an air hammer with an 18 inch bit
working on this now. `what a disaster! Cut the shaft as he did now im having a hard time getting the bearing out of the carrier and i damaged the carrier tryinbg to bang the bearing out smh and i cant even find a place that sells it. FML
Dealership will sell it to you. Any time I need a part I can find anywhere else, the dealership always has it. They'll usually charge more than you think it should cost, but they'll have it.
Maybe the Texas twister 🌪 would be the tool for that job?!?
I replaced mine Camry passenger axle without problem
nice tune. it's a classic. Alice's Restaurant.
No need to cut or beat on them. Get a straight flat 14mm and grind down the head of it till it fits the hidden bolt walllahhhh
Best part is the BFATE!
2 pins?! Really. What a pain but you made it look easy.
There is another video on YT that shows putting a longer hi-grade bolt into that carrier bearing ring, and overtighten it, to break the carrier bearing RING, and that's how to get them out without having to cut it. ua-cam.com/video/hW4gG_3p-dQ/v-deo.html