Thanks - great video! Very helpful to understand all the steps before tacking my own. I just changed the driver & passenger side CV axle on my 2012 Toyota Sienna. Only removed the lower control arm (2 nuts & 1 bolt) and was able to move the strut around to remove the axle. I really dreaded the upcoming fight with that carrier bearing rusted into the housing. Purchased special carbide cutting blades, hammer bits, pry bars, etc - only to decide to try soaking the bearing in Seafoam Extreme Marine overnight - and you won't believe it. Once I removed the clip and bolt, while pulling the lower control arm off, the shaft just slipped right out. I was blown away. The interior showed signs of rust and I definitely saw rust drain when I doused it in lube, but never thought it would literally dissolve it. The key was letting it soak overnight, just like Project Farm recommends. Hope other experience same results. Thanks again for taking the time to share your video - wouldn't have tackled this without watching your experience.
I wish I had read about that marine Seafoam before I tackled that passenger side cv axle. Once that bearing is rusted in that support bracket, between the tranny and the passenger wheel, it's no joke about hammering the crap out of it, especially for us "Shadetree" DIY hacks! I had soaked the hell out of it with penetrating oil, it may have helped in some way but your the third person I heard that had success with the Seafoam marine.
@@willirvin3337 I hear you, - one additional thing I learned since replacing the entire CV was maybe that wasn't the best solution. My Sienna only had 90K miles and the boots were slinging grease but the joint was (is) still ok and 3rd party axles aren't nearly as good as OEM. I should have done what's recommended in this clip and may reboot my old OEM axles and reinstall them once the 3rd party one's I installed go out. Here's the clip: ua-cam.com/video/YH5Cf7uJV5Y/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TheCarCareNut - where you don't need to hassle with the carrier bearing issue and still reboot the axles.
Thanks for making the video. I have a '05 Sienna with the same problem. I got all the loaner tools you mentioned. I bought the cv driver side axle from a Toyota dealership because I saw so many bad reviews ( too short to fit properly) for ones sold at auto parts stores. I guess Toyota has authorized after market parts for older vehicles because it wasn't ridiculously expensive. I did the repair earlier today and everything went fine. When I test drove it the vibration was gone.
Hi Chris! Thanks for the video bro! Wish I could've found it last year when I originally tried to replace the front wheel hub. Turns out after almos killing myself trying to take it apart and set in a new one, I ended up buying the whole assembly and replacing it. Well, live and learn! Great tutorial! Clear and detailed so that a non-mechanically inclined person such as myself can do the work. Thanks again!
I know this is an old post, but I watched your video to help me get this job done, so thought I'd give you some credit for your help. I did both axles. Same as you, I did the driver side first and it did not remove the shimmy. The passenger side was more of a task, and yes, it did come down to a 2# sledge hammer and a cold chisel to beat the bearing out. Once it started moving it came out pretty quickly. I watched videos where folks cut the axles to get it out, used a torch to burn them into, and I decided just to beat on it. It worked, and changing the passenger side did indeed take care of the shimmy 100%!!!
Went to the mechanic today. Have to replace the LCA and the driver axel .... do them both together it'll be a lot easier for you when it comes to taking the ball Joint off to move the rotor aside
Hope this video is helpful. Changing the drivers side did not get rid of the vibration in the steering wheel so the passengers side had to be done. I watched enough videos about people having to do crazy things to get it done, so I took it to a place that specialized in replacing CV axles. When I asked if there was a trick to getting the axle out they looked at me like I was crazy. "Nope we just take it out." As I watched the guy take out the pressed barring, it became obvious it really just comes down to leverage and a sledge hammer. the guy just pounded on it with a hand sledge and a chisel. I will post the video but keep in mind that I was watching from a distance of about eight feet. Buy the way... if the video is helpful please hit the like button. Thanks
Chris we managed to get ours out but now for the life of us can NOT get the new one in. it just wont go all the way into the transmission!?! if you have any suggestion please let us know. we are on our 3rd axle at this point attempting to get it in😞😬
Crystal Oldfield. Hi Crystal, sorry to hear that you are having difficulty. The passenger side axle is more difficult to replace because of the extra bearing. I chose to take the van to a place that specializes in cv axles. Mostly due to the my apprehension after seeing that several people say it was hard to remove the passenger side axle. I would suggest making sure that the bracket that holds the bearing is clean and that you have the snap ring out so you can get it into the bracket. Unfortunately I don't have much more to offer on the passenger side.
If you left the passenger side on the ground and just jack and supported the the driver side of the car, when you removed the axle, transmission oil wouldn't have leaked out.
Crazy how your new axle sized up to oem I got my cardone cv from Amazon when took out oem it looked shorter I checked rock auto it's same part number I went to autozone and checked one from there they are same size so I think ima pull the trigger and slap it in this weekend
Very helpful. You have impact wrench pry bar breaker bar and a torque wrench. But a hatchet/drywall hammer? Lol. I’ll be doing mine this week. Got to go back to autozone to get that 12 point socket and some grease.
You should of taken the brake caliper off as well as the tie rod end, thats why you had so much resistance. Toyotas typically do not have that much resistance taking off the front axel
What you call a "Separation" is actually a dampener that Toyota thinks is important. This can be purchased from Toyota and the aftermarket axles that I see do not come with this . The passenger side does not have a dampener like this but has a dampener bolt which has a rubber tip . This bolt is screwed into the carrier housing and on the Siennas and is torqued to 24 ft/lbs .FYI
Looking at the underside of my vehicle, I noticed that the clamp is off the boot of the back part of the axle. Do you think I should replace the axle or just put on the clamp?
Depend on what the car is doing. Missinf clamp on boot would not cause the car to vibrate. May have lost some grease but if the car is vibratig like mine was the clamp was not the issue. I hope it goes well!
Great video! I'm told some aftermarket axles DON'T have the gimbal bearings that an OEM axles has and instead have "slug" bearings. Your new one doesn't look like it has the gimbal bearings - the give-away is that as you noted, the left-side is round rather than having some depressions. Do you know if the Cardone aftermarket brand would have the gimbal bearings - or which ones would? Thanks!
I really don't know. The van has over 370,000 miles on it now and I need to replace it again. Worked well up to this point. Siennas are amazing if you don't mind turning a wrench now and again.
@@Chris-uk3zg Thanks! Agreed; mine has "only" 240k and here's an interesting quirk I have to work around. The "check engine" light is on and the code says the transmission shift sensor is bad. It shifts fine, but I can't pass my inspection with the check engine light on, so I replace the sensor. The light goes out but it shifts horribly. So every year I play this game; I replace the sensor, go get the inspection done so I can update my plates, then put the "bad" sensor back in so it will shift properly. Done that for the last 6 years.
alfre sua : Hi Alfre. Thanks for the feedback. It t is mostly an issue of getting the "c" ring to seat into the transmission. I tried to describe how the c ring works. The pressure of pushing the axle needs to cause the c ring to compress so it can slide completely into the transmission. Once the c ring compresses the axle only has to move an 1/4 of an inch or less. Hope this helps.
The Cynic if you mean how do you get the axle in the brake assembly....I just muscled the brake assembly out at an angle that would allow me to get the axle into the hole. (Sorry for the delayed response)
Chris no I got the axle in the trans and the brake. I couldn’t get the ball joint back on the. What is an A frame? I put the old one back in and took it back to auto zone. This is the last time I work on my own car. I’m pretty good handyman. I cut a 70 foot tree down replaced my water heater. I’m a painter I put my hardwood floor in. But cars. This is the reason I don’t buy used cars.
The Cynic If i'm understanding correctly, I think the answer to the question was at 27;28 on the video. You need to push the control arm down and that allows the three bolts to line up.
Chris I did that. I even put those shock shrinker things on. I took a pickle fork and took out the thing that turns the wheel out so I could freely turn the brake housing.
@@thecynic807 I dont know if it's the same process, but on my 05 camry, to get the ball joint to hook back up to the LCA, I had to remove the 2 strut bolts. Then you can put the spindle/ball joint combo onto the Lower Contral Arm. Then it was easier to move the LCA around the get the Strut bolted back to he spindle.
Thanks - great video! Very helpful to understand all the steps before tacking my own. I just changed the driver & passenger side CV axle on my 2012 Toyota Sienna. Only removed the lower control arm (2 nuts & 1 bolt) and was able to move the strut around to remove the axle. I really dreaded the upcoming fight with that carrier bearing rusted into the housing. Purchased special carbide cutting blades, hammer bits, pry bars, etc - only to decide to try soaking the bearing in Seafoam Extreme Marine overnight - and you won't believe it. Once I removed the clip and bolt, while pulling the lower control arm off, the shaft just slipped right out. I was blown away. The interior showed signs of rust and I definitely saw rust drain when I doused it in lube, but never thought it would literally dissolve it. The key was letting it soak overnight, just like Project Farm recommends.
Hope other experience same results.
Thanks again for taking the time to share your video - wouldn't have tackled this without watching your experience.
I wish I had read about that marine Seafoam before I tackled that passenger side cv axle. Once that bearing is rusted in that support bracket, between the tranny and the passenger wheel, it's no joke about hammering the crap out of it, especially for us "Shadetree" DIY hacks! I had soaked the hell out of it with penetrating oil, it may have helped in some way but your the third person I heard that had success with the Seafoam marine.
@@willirvin3337 I hear you, - one additional thing I learned since replacing the entire CV was maybe that wasn't the best solution. My Sienna only had 90K miles and the boots were slinging grease but the joint was (is) still ok and 3rd party axles aren't nearly as good as OEM. I should have done what's recommended in this clip and may reboot my old OEM axles and reinstall them once the 3rd party one's I installed go out. Here's the clip: ua-cam.com/video/YH5Cf7uJV5Y/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TheCarCareNut - where you don't need to hassle with the carrier bearing issue and still reboot the axles.
Thanks for making the video. I have a '05 Sienna with the same problem. I got all the loaner tools you mentioned. I bought the cv driver side axle from a Toyota dealership because I saw so many bad reviews ( too short to fit properly) for ones sold at auto parts stores. I guess Toyota has authorized after market parts for older vehicles because it wasn't ridiculously expensive. I did the repair earlier today and everything went fine. When I test drove it the vibration was gone.
Hi Chris! Thanks for the video bro! Wish I could've found it last year when I originally tried to replace the front wheel hub. Turns out after almos killing myself trying to take it apart and set in a new one, I ended up buying the whole assembly and replacing it. Well, live and learn! Great tutorial! Clear and detailed so that a non-mechanically inclined person such as myself can do the work. Thanks again!
Thanks Rick. I appreciate the comments.
Enjoyed your video. Watched it so I could understand my mechanic when he diagnosed the problem & I felt his labor/parts price was good. Very helpful
Just did this exact repair today, thanks for the video.
I know this is an old post, but I watched your video to help me get this job done, so thought I'd give you some credit for your help. I did both axles. Same as you, I did the driver side first and it did not remove the shimmy. The passenger side was more of a task, and yes, it did come down to a 2# sledge hammer and a cold chisel to beat the bearing out. Once it started moving it came out pretty quickly. I watched videos where folks cut the axles to get it out, used a torch to burn them into, and I decided just to beat on it. It worked, and changing the passenger side did indeed take care of the shimmy 100%!!!
Went to the mechanic today. Have to replace the LCA and the driver axel .... do them both together it'll be a lot easier for you when it comes to taking the ball
Joint off to move the rotor aside
Hope this video is helpful. Changing the drivers side did not get rid of the vibration in the steering wheel so the passengers side had to be done. I watched enough videos about people having to do crazy things to get it done, so I took it to a place that specialized in replacing CV axles. When I asked if there was a trick to getting the axle out they looked at me like I was crazy. "Nope we just take it out." As I watched the guy take out the pressed barring, it became obvious it really just comes down to leverage and a sledge hammer. the guy just pounded on it with a hand sledge and a chisel. I will post the video but keep in mind that I was watching from a distance of about eight feet. Buy the way... if the video is helpful please hit the like button. Thanks
Chris we managed to get ours out but now for the life of us can NOT get the new one in. it just wont go all the way into the transmission!?! if you have any suggestion please let us know. we are on our 3rd axle at this point attempting to get it in😞😬
the passanger side. cant seem to find any for 2004 Toyota sienna and the one i did they make it seem like it slides in so easy!?!
Crystal Oldfield. Hi Crystal, sorry to hear that you are having difficulty. The passenger side axle is more difficult to replace because of the extra bearing. I chose to take the van to a place that specializes in cv axles. Mostly due to the my apprehension after seeing that several people say it was hard to remove the passenger side axle. I would suggest making sure that the bracket that holds the bearing is clean and that you have the snap ring out so you can get it into the bracket. Unfortunately I don't have much more to offer on the passenger side.
Chris I have a vw Passat and I have the same problem, the dame axle will not budge.
Chris you tighten your lug nuts wrong way use click drive torgue at 80 lbs. so you wraped your brake rotor that will cause shimmy
thanks Chris I want to finish up this job in my Toyota as well thank you
I am getting ready to replace mine. Thank you for posting this video.
If you left the passenger side on the ground and just jack and supported the the driver side of the car, when you removed the axle, transmission oil wouldn't have leaked out.
I wish i would have read this before. Lost close to 1/8 gallon of fluid
MAN IN THE MIRROR SHIRT!?! I subscribed.
Crazy how your new axle sized up to oem I got my cardone cv from Amazon when took out oem it looked shorter I checked rock auto it's same part number I went to autozone and checked one from there they are same size so I think ima pull the trigger and slap it in this weekend
Very helpful.
You have impact wrench pry bar breaker bar and a torque wrench. But a hatchet/drywall hammer? Lol.
I’ll be doing mine this week.
Got to go back to autozone to get that 12 point socket and some grease.
The Cynic I have 4 hammers. Roofing hammer was within reach and did the job. Lol. Good luck with your project.
Thank you Chris very helpful video
Thank you very much for the video!
You are handyman!
Can you make the video passenger side please.
Thanks for making such a detailed video. What were the problems you were experiencing that led to the repair? Thanks again for the video.
Excellent Video
You should of taken the brake caliper off as well as the tie rod end, thats why you had so much resistance. Toyotas typically do not have that much resistance taking off the front axel
Thank you very much
Very good Job!
100 like for you !
Correct axle nut torque is 217 ft.*lbf
I did not see your video for the passenger side, my question is did that fix the problem After having the pass. side axle replaced? Thanks
Thank you
What you call a "Separation" is actually a dampener that Toyota thinks is important. This can be purchased from Toyota and the aftermarket axles that I see do not come with this . The passenger side does not have a dampener like this but has a dampener bolt which has a rubber tip . This bolt is screwed into the carrier housing and on the Siennas and is torqued to 24 ft/lbs .FYI
Tines are on forks,splines are on axles and drive shafts
would you mind please just write down all the tools that you used for replace the axle assmpaly shaft
If you dont hit up that crimp on the axle nut you can strip thr threads on the axle. I know from experience doing a bearing job
Did you use general purpose grease or ....?
you don't need to take the tire off, that's what that little cover is for on the rim
A lil excessive work bro there are some short cuts to this.... But hey everyone has there own way....
Looking at the underside of my vehicle, I noticed that the clamp is off the boot of the back part of the axle. Do you think I should replace the axle or just put on the clamp?
Depend on what the car is doing. Missinf clamp on boot would not cause the car to vibrate. May have lost some grease but if the car is vibratig like mine was the clamp was not the issue. I hope it goes well!
Great video! I'm told some aftermarket axles DON'T have the gimbal bearings that an OEM axles has and instead have "slug" bearings. Your new one doesn't look like it has the gimbal bearings - the give-away is that as you noted, the left-side is round rather than having some depressions. Do you know if the Cardone aftermarket brand would have the gimbal bearings - or which ones would? Thanks!
I really don't know. The van has over 370,000 miles on it now and I need to replace it again. Worked well up to this point. Siennas are amazing if you don't mind turning a wrench now and again.
@@Chris-uk3zg Thanks! Agreed; mine has "only" 240k and here's an interesting quirk I have to work around. The "check engine" light is on and the code says the transmission shift sensor is bad. It shifts fine, but I can't pass my inspection with the check engine light on, so I replace the sensor. The light goes out but it shifts horribly. So every year I play this game; I replace the sensor, go get the inspection done so I can update my plates, then put the "bad" sensor back in so it will shift properly. Done that for the last 6 years.
Sounds like a harbor freight torque wrench.
The trick to getting the bolt back in at the end is to just tighten the two bolts first
Yes. That is a good technique that works
what happened 2 air tools
it would be very helpfull if you had showed how far the axle has to go into the transmission.
alfre sua : Hi Alfre. Thanks for the feedback. It t is mostly an issue of getting the "c" ring to seat into the transmission. I tried to describe how the c ring works. The pressure of pushing the axle needs to cause the c ring to compress so it can slide completely into the transmission. Once the c ring compresses the axle only has to move an 1/4 of an inch or less. Hope this helps.
Good job, but would have been faster with the air tools
Supposed to take off the brakes the rotor first
Torque on lug nuts is 77 foot lbs
I wouldn't let this guy work on my car!
Ok so I’m having trouble.
How do I get the ball joint back in the holes. Your video isn’t working at that point
The Cynic if you mean how do you get the axle in the brake assembly....I just muscled the brake assembly out at an angle that would allow me to get the axle into the hole. (Sorry for the delayed response)
Chris no I got the axle in the trans and the brake. I couldn’t get the ball joint back on the. What is an A frame? I put the old one back in and took it back to auto zone. This is the last time I work on my own car. I’m pretty good handyman. I cut a 70 foot tree down replaced my water heater. I’m a painter I put my hardwood floor in. But cars. This is the reason I don’t buy used cars.
The Cynic If i'm understanding correctly, I think the answer to the question was at 27;28 on the video. You need to push the control arm down and that allows the three bolts to line up.
Chris I did that. I even put those shock shrinker things on. I took a pickle fork and took out the thing that turns the wheel out so I could freely turn the brake housing.
@@thecynic807 I dont know if it's the same process, but on my 05 camry, to get the ball joint to hook back up to the LCA, I had to remove the 2 strut bolts.
Then you can put the spindle/ball joint combo onto the Lower Contral Arm.
Then it was easier to move the LCA around the get the Strut bolted back to he spindle.
Take your brakes off!!!!!
Kindergarten
Yang sayang aku like yang cinta allah coment.