just like to say (great work on the car ) over the years I taught all my children how to rebuild cars when they were young, days before their license. We work on anything from 1907 to modern stuff With the care and detail you and your father put into that car you should work on a 1920 or older the best part of that age of the car is the people you meet and the history But you keep up the good work and keep having fun enjoy the car shows when you get to them have a great new year and be safe
If the car's getting too much fuel,check the float and needle and seat in the carburetor. The float level could be too high,or the needle and seat might not be sealing properly. Carburetors are simple devices but they can be hard to get everything set right.
I can certainly relate to carburetor problems Ellie! Hang in there! But this is also where I'm at: constantly reminding myself that this is the price of learning. I'm also in the camp of wondering if I have valve issues too.
Excelente great videos,very well explained thanks to keep sharing it help us a lot with our 200cid engine,Say hello to dad,outstanding dad.thanks suscribes jorge
Unless you are looking to keep your car totally stock, I would suggest replacing that carb with a fuel injection system that will self learn as you drive. I would also go with a pointless ignition. I haven't checked for a while, but with some of the new electronic ignition systems you could get a huge gain in power and fuel economy. There are companies that offer compatible systems as a package so that you know that everything works together. If you are wanting to step up your power get a manifold with a 4 barrel carb base. Now that will lead to headers and maybe a cam. Quite a few years ago I saw a Falcon that they took the 6 out and replaced it with a modern 4 cylinder which was much lighter, more powerful and got much better fuel economy. Good luck with your Falcon.
The 1100 carbs are not an easy carb to make run well. At best they are an ok carb. They didn’t run well when they were new. I like the Holley 1904 on my 6 cylinders. Easy to tune with little issues. Also are you running the correct Load-o-matic distributor to match your carb. The entire load-o-matic design is a nightmare in my opinion. I can give you more info on this topic if you are interested. Great car and great videos. Stay at it. You will get all the bugs worked out. Bob.
Patience. It takes patience. And more than likely a new carb would be a good idea. Problem with rebuilt ones is: who knows the quality of the replacement components, and, who put them together, did they make what they were doing, in a hurry, overlooked something, under-tightened one thing, over-tightened something else, bent another thing, dropped the whole thing... it adds up. But this is all good learning. Hopefully you have either chemistry and physics in your school. All this stuff is related. Good job. Stay at it.
These are the things that really push your buttons. The time adjusting and adjusting and more of that. It can get very frustrating. Keep at it, Carl will come around.
I have rebuilt a lot of carbs in my life and it always seems to me that someone before me has botched up the choke. I don't know if people don't understand the need and use of the choke or what, but they never seem to be complete like they were from the factory. It doesn't surprise me at all that something is bent on your choke.
You can get a re-manufactured carburetor on Rockauto.com. Go to Ford then1965, Falcon and then Fuel and air section and carburetor. 3rd down is the best choice. $180.79 plus $125.00Core that you will get back once they receive your old carb and a total of $305.79. if you can find one locally that is cheaper go for it. I bought a lot of my parts from rockauto.com . Oh there will be some shipping charge too. If you can wait a week or so go with the cheapest shipping to save you some Moolah. And good luck , great job on getting Karl going . And tighten that alternator belt a bit more so it stops squealing every time you start it.
Hope you got a new carb to solve your issues. By the way, are interested in selling your old carb? I have a 1965 Ranchero and maybe able to use parts from your old carb. I love all the work your have done on your car. I was at the National Falcon event in Kingsport but was not able to stay there. I would love to have met you and your Dad. Keep up the great work.
Honestly, i don't think the slight difference in timing or valve lash makes a big difference unless it's waaay off. that's the beuty of classic cars that they don't have to be perfect. The engine should still last many many years, and if it didn't, rebuilding this engine today is not very expensive or difficult...maybe they will be more costly in the future. As for the carburetor, I find that most often even new carbs are not adjusted, probably because this would require a human factory worker to do the adjustments...this would increase the cost. The youtube channel called 'Mike's Carburetor' shows all the adjustments you need. Carburetor adjsutment would have been very common and easy back then but have now become almost a lost art. I've been studying different carburetors and how they work and should soon have a playlist with the complete explanations on how any carburetor works and how to adjust any carburetor.
Thank you so much for this advice! We are actually wanting to redo the valves soon. Just to confirm, when you say a "tight valve", do you mean the rocker/pushrod bolt is turned too tight keeping the valve more open, or do you mean that the valve is closed too tightly? Thank you again!
@@ElliesGarage best luck with CARL! take the valve cover off and turn the engine with a wrench on the crank pulley. You will see that each of the rocker arms go up and down. check each rockerarm when it is all the way up. When any rockerarm is all the way up there should be some slack or looseness between the rockerarm and pushrod. There needs to be some slack it is also called lash so the valve spring can completly close the valve. lotsa vids for "ford straight 6 valve lash adjustment"
@@timfisher77 This car has hydraulic lifters. There should be no slack between the pushrod and rocker arm. With mechanical lifters, yes, there should be some slack. I noticed in a previous video that Ellie and her dad were spinning the pushrod to determine zero lash. That's incorrect. You should move the pushrod up and down to determine zero lash, then turn the rocker arm adjuster 3/4 to 1 more turn.
I don't know if it is because of the video editing but you seem to be doing multiple things at a time. You seem to be chasing your tail, so to speak, because you are trying to many things. I recommend you work on 1 problem at a time, fix it, then go to the next problem. Adjusting timing and valves at the same time doesn't tell you what is working. In order of importance I'd fix 1- fix the belt squeal 2 - set the timing to manufacturers specification (not what you think sounds good) 3 - set the tappets to correct clearance (not what you think feels good) with a feeler gauge. (EDIT for number 3 -I've done some reading on these old engines and you did the valves correctly however I would suggest you and your father would have different tolerances for when the pushrod stopped moving. Anyway it isn't actually the valves that are being adjusted with this method but rather the hydraulic lifter preload is being set) 4 - replace the carb and set the new carb to manufacturers specifications. Keep up the good work, it is nice to see father and daughter working together as well as seeing a young adult female being interested in learning about cars and how they work.
I think the same. As it is in the learning process, I would say that as things do not work as expected, do more advanced research on the theory and the necessary adjustments, then apply them correctly (equipment, tools, instruments, technical information on the specific case ), measure and test them. -Operation of hydraulic lifters -preload adjustment,background -Preload adjustment, different types and specific application Just when repairing a 200cid engine, with hydraulic lifters, and rocker arms without adjusting screws, it cost me a lot to understand all the aspects that I needed to know before doing the job. Regarding the carburetor (and ignition), I also recommend learning to use the vacuum gauge as a checking and diagnostic tool. Also the basics of float level adjustment(theory,values,how to check and adjust), and initial position of the mixture adjustment screw, clearance of breakpoints, and initial ignition timing.
throw it away and buy a A-2100 from amazon for 100 bucks and free ship ! they are NEW carbs NOT re-mans . made a world of difference for my 86 f-150 4.9 straight 6 . and throw away the stock derrrr-a-spark ignition system and get an MSD -6AL high out put ignition . made a1 world of difference for me and my 6 .
One of the best videos I've seen in this make and model. It's technically excellent. The video is good to perfect for schools.
just like to say (great work on the car ) over the years I taught all my children how to rebuild cars when they were young, days before their license. We work on anything from 1907 to modern stuff With the care and detail you and your father put into that car you should work on a 1920 or older the best part of that age of the car is the people you meet and the history But you keep up the good work and keep having fun enjoy the car shows when you get to them have a great new year and be safe
If the car's getting too much fuel,check the float and needle and seat in the carburetor. The float level could be too high,or the needle and seat might not be sealing properly. Carburetors are simple devices but they can be hard to get everything set right.
I can certainly relate to carburetor problems Ellie! Hang in there! But this is also where I'm at: constantly reminding myself that this is the price of learning. I'm also in the camp of wondering if I have valve issues too.
I completely appreciate the struggle. Keep working on it, you’ll get there!
Excelente great videos,very well explained thanks to keep sharing it help us a lot with our 200cid engine,Say hello to dad,outstanding dad.thanks suscribes jorge
Unless you are looking to keep your car totally stock, I would suggest replacing that carb with a fuel injection system that will self learn as you drive. I would also go with a pointless ignition. I haven't checked for a while, but with some of the new electronic ignition systems you could get a huge gain in power and fuel economy. There are companies that offer compatible systems as a package so that you know that everything works together. If you are wanting to step up your power get a manifold with a 4 barrel carb base. Now that will lead to headers and maybe a cam. Quite a few years ago I saw a Falcon that they took the 6 out and replaced it with a modern 4 cylinder which was much lighter, more powerful and got much better fuel economy. Good luck with your Falcon.
The 1100 carbs are not an easy carb to make run well. At best they are an ok carb. They didn’t run well when they were new. I like the Holley 1904 on my 6 cylinders. Easy to tune with little issues.
Also are you running the correct Load-o-matic distributor to match your carb. The entire load-o-matic design is a nightmare in my opinion.
I can give you more info on this topic if you are interested.
Great car and great videos. Stay at it. You will get all the bugs worked out.
Bob.
Will a Holley 1904 fit on a 65 mercury comet 6 cylinder 3.3?
One thing I’ve found with Spock (65 falcon ) he doesn’t like ribbed belts, he likes solid rubber belts, it keeps him from squealing. Good luck!
Patience. It takes patience. And more than likely a new carb would be a good idea. Problem with rebuilt ones is: who knows the quality of the replacement components, and, who put them together, did they make what they were doing, in a hurry, overlooked something, under-tightened one thing, over-tightened something else, bent another thing, dropped the whole thing... it adds up. But this is all good learning. Hopefully you have either chemistry and physics in your school. All this stuff is related. Good job. Stay at it.
These are the things that really push your buttons. The time adjusting and adjusting and more of that. It can get very frustrating. Keep at it, Carl will come around.
I have rebuilt a lot of carbs in my life and it always seems to me that someone before me has botched up the choke. I don't know if people don't understand the need and use of the choke or what, but they never seem to be complete like they were from the factory. It doesn't surprise me at all that something is bent on your choke.
Welcome to vehicles ... lol
Good job guys :-)
You can get a re-manufactured carburetor on Rockauto.com. Go to Ford then1965, Falcon and then Fuel and air section and carburetor. 3rd down is the best choice. $180.79 plus $125.00Core that you will get back once they receive your old carb and a total of $305.79. if you can find one locally that is cheaper go for it. I bought a lot of my parts from rockauto.com . Oh there will be some shipping charge too. If you can wait a week or so go with the cheapest shipping to save you some Moolah. And good luck , great job on getting Karl going . And tighten that alternator belt a bit more so it stops squealing every time you start it.
Hope you got a new carb to solve your issues. By the way, are interested in selling your old carb? I have a 1965 Ranchero and maybe able to use parts from your old carb. I love all the work your have done on your car. I was at the National Falcon event in Kingsport but was not able to stay there. I would love to have met you and your Dad. Keep up the great work.
I just bought thr same exact carb but it seems like the linkage is backwards,how can a reverse it??
Who is this Sam character and how can I enlist his services? I'm also local in the Spotsylvania area.
Ellies do you know What is the original carburetor for a 1965 V8 Ford Fslcon Futura? Thanks in advance
I have the same engine in my 65 mustang and the same problems
If the carb guy says you need a new carb get a new carb lol. That's what I would do then fix that squeal
Whats that squeek noise
Honestly, i don't think the slight difference in timing or valve lash makes a big difference unless it's waaay off.
that's the beuty of classic cars that they don't have to be perfect. The engine should still last many many years, and if it didn't, rebuilding this engine today is not very expensive or difficult...maybe they will be more costly in the future.
As for the carburetor, I find that most often even new carbs are not adjusted, probably because this would require a human factory worker to do the adjustments...this would increase the cost. The youtube channel called 'Mike's Carburetor' shows all the adjustments you need.
Carburetor adjsutment would have been very common and easy back then but have now become almost a lost art.
I've been studying different carburetors and how they work and should soon have a playlist with the complete explanations on how any carburetor works and how to adjust any carburetor.
I hope your answer!!!
Sam is a nice guy....
He is so great! I am so grateful to him for all his help!
adjust the valves, you have a tight intake valve, that is why it is long cranking time and backfires through the carburator
Thank you so much for this advice! We are actually wanting to redo the valves soon. Just to confirm, when you say a "tight valve", do you mean the rocker/pushrod bolt is turned too tight keeping the valve more open, or do you mean that the valve is closed too tightly? Thank you again!
@@ElliesGarage best luck with CARL! take the valve cover off and turn the engine with a wrench on the crank pulley.
You will see that each of the rocker arms go up and down.
check each rockerarm when it is all the way up.
When any rockerarm is all the way up there should be some slack or looseness between the rockerarm and pushrod.
There needs to be some slack it is also called lash so the valve spring can completly close the valve.
lotsa vids for "ford straight 6 valve lash adjustment"
@@timfisher77 This car has hydraulic lifters. There should be no slack between the pushrod and rocker arm. With mechanical lifters, yes, there should be some slack.
I noticed in a previous video that Ellie and her dad were spinning the pushrod to determine zero lash. That's incorrect. You should move the pushrod up and down to determine zero lash, then turn the rocker arm adjuster 3/4 to 1 more turn.
Merci de la france
I don't know if it is because of the video editing but you seem to be doing multiple things at a time. You seem to be chasing your tail, so to speak, because you are trying to many things. I recommend you work on 1 problem at a time, fix it, then go to the next problem. Adjusting timing and valves at the same time doesn't tell you what is working. In order of importance I'd fix
1- fix the belt squeal
2 - set the timing to manufacturers specification (not what you think sounds good)
3 - set the tappets to correct clearance (not what you think feels good) with a feeler gauge. (EDIT for number 3 -I've done some reading on these old engines and you did the valves correctly however I would suggest you and your father would have different tolerances for when the pushrod stopped moving. Anyway it isn't actually the valves that are being adjusted with this method but rather the hydraulic lifter preload is being set)
4 - replace the carb and set the new carb to manufacturers specifications.
Keep up the good work, it is nice to see father and daughter working together as well as seeing a young adult female being interested in learning about cars and how they work.
I think the same.
As it is in the learning process, I would say that as things do not work as expected, do more advanced research on the theory and the necessary adjustments, then apply them correctly (equipment, tools, instruments, technical information on the specific case ), measure and test them.
-Operation of hydraulic lifters
-preload adjustment,background
-Preload adjustment, different types and specific application
Just when repairing a 200cid engine, with hydraulic lifters, and rocker arms without adjusting screws, it cost me a lot to understand all the aspects that I needed to know before doing the job.
Regarding the carburetor (and ignition), I also recommend learning to use the vacuum gauge as a checking and diagnostic tool.
Also the basics of float level adjustment(theory,values,how to check and adjust), and initial position of the mixture adjustment screw, clearance of breakpoints, and initial ignition timing.
your cameraman is horrible
Fuel injection is not the way to go! If it wasn't for your daddy nothing would get done! Not a girls jobs to learn!😊
I think I see the problem with your carb, it needs a new car!!!😫😞🤕😣😩
This is awful
The mask 🤦♂️
throw it away and buy a A-2100 from amazon for 100 bucks and free ship ! they are NEW carbs NOT re-mans . made a world of difference for my 86 f-150 4.9 straight 6 . and throw away the stock derrrr-a-spark ignition system and get an MSD -6AL high out put ignition . made a1 world of difference for me and my 6 .