Washing Machine Drain Pump Testing
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- Опубліковано 14 чер 2012
- A quick video showing how to check the drain pump in a washing machine for any problems including how to test the pump with a test meter. For more washing machine repair help please see www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk
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From what I have learnt ,
The water is meant to get into the back section to cool the device but keep everything out ,as most have two sections in the back plastic housing, where the magnet and empty space is,
One is for the long magnet that held on to the shaft and other section is where water can enter as a coolant for the magnet.
The magnet shaft has a rubber ring seal to stop water getting in to that section,
You will usually find that soap powder has got in to the other section and some times gets into the magnet area ,and completely packed to the full, witch hinders the cooling process,
Some makes don`t separated design where the magnet is housed that were explained above,
Also the shaft to the propeller wears the holder section, and becomes wobbly which hinders the central fugal force used to push water out at a certain speed,
The propeller is designed to move with free play left or right a little first on the shaft be for it the propeller moves , this is because the magnet needs to move first be for propeller other wise it would struggle to turn with water force holding against it.
Its important to separate the pump and clean the crap out from the magnet area and other section ,
I had removed the drain pump, but didn't know how to test it. After watching your video, I opened mine and found a flat rock which was plugging the exhaust. Thanks, you saved me money and pecious time!
Thanks for the test. To others' questions, set your multimeter to the lowest Ohms setting. My lowest setting is 200 Ohms. My pump had continuity with 22 Ohms resistance. So, the pump is good. The impeller is fine. The line is clear. No joy, though. Now the fun begins, I suppose.
This is the most informative video on drain pumps I've ever watched ! Thank you
Hi Christopher,
You'll usually get a little resistance as you turn a magnetic pump then it'll "spring" if you will as it goes round. In between that though they're often pretty floppy. Normally though that's only about a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn of the impeller.
If you expect to a positive continuity test with a bell test then you pump has a short short-circuit and is not OK!, you should expect about 180 ohms
I followed your video which was helpful to a point, but the electrical testing showed open circuit...as did my pump. However my dishwasher has a flood cut off switch, which Helped me to test the pump once plugged in...the pump worked with the flood cut off switch activated... This is worth a try for anyone in the same situation.
Well, I've just puller a Hanyu B13 6B from an AEG, and it passes this test, but it sits there buzzing unless you hit it, then it starts running.
I suspect this is a DC motor with a rectifier and smoothing capacitor inside but as it is potted, finding out would be a PITA as the chemicals to strip it are not very nice.
thank you for the information. I bought a drip pan because our washer was leaking but think it could be the pump causing the leak. I noticed quite a bit of water in the house right at the pump. Is this normal?
Nice and simple. Thank you.
yeah I agree stephen.. Introducing the beep test could confuse things.. Better off just testing for the resistance, if it's ~160 ohms it is working, if it's 0 ohms then it's shorted..
I would say that's a better way.....
what if you have 15ohms
@@Welshhockey70 i have the same question. mine measures 17 ohms
Lower reading means weaker motor. If zero means dead. 165 max even on industrial motors
@@ramzramirez1589thanks
Thanks, very helpful video.
What should the reading be a normally working pump?
Hi, do you have an idea of what is the power and RPM of that motor? I don't need exactly but approximate will be interesting to know.
Thanks in advance.
My LG washer has the same OE error. I took mine apart, drain pump was testing 14 on the multimeter so it was still good.(I think at least) I took the propeller out of the pump itself and it was filled with dirty black gunk. Besides that, I can't tell or figure out why I can't get it to drain and not get the OE error. I do know whenever it does drain, it smells awful like sulfur. Not sure what to do. I took the hose that drains into the pipe out of the house off and tried to clean that out too, still getting the OE error. Is my pump the only option that would make it not drain then? No kinks in hose, it's clean & the filter at the bottom is clean
So I have the same type of pump. Displays throws a drain error and wont drain. Last time this happened it was a rubber band around the impeller. This time there is nothing in there the hoses are clear, but the pump winding resistance is ~180 Ohms, so not completely open circuit but high. You don't say in the video what the reading on a good pump should be , but I've read elsewhere that it should be around 5-10 Ohms. Would a high resistance in the motor winding, but still not open circuit be enough to throw a 0E error? I don't know where else to look.
Thanks. Mines measuring completely open circuit, unless I rotate the impeller and a reading appears of ~3Mega ohms. Do we know what can generally cause this failure mode? Is it just normal wear? Im wondering if a new one could instantly fail due to a fault somewhere else.
Useful. It would be more useful if you could tell us the typical resistance seen. Mine registers 180ohms, which is not open circuit, but is enough to prevent my meter registering on the 'beep' test setting.
Exactly...mine is 222ohms...too much for a beeper...but it's functional...
I found the same on my di log similar tester
My LG front loading machines drain motor runs perfectly well when removed but at times it fails to rotate and starts vibrating and does not rotate. Any tip?
thank you
Great video. My pump is a bit different and did pass the electrical test but the the impeller has a considerable amount of slop before the magnets engage. It can turn almost one full revolution before the the magnetic resistance. is this normal? Or should I replace the pump? Thanks in advance for your help.
cheers.
my old multimeter this is how bad it was measuring house volt gave me 370 volt ac should be 230v
Good video but hard to understand
What I don't understand is if I am getting a 0 ohm reading, how can the washer be working at all? I get 3 or 4 loads before it starts throwing codes. I reset (unplug etc) and get another few loads before F21 or F33 again.
Getting a zero reading would suggest that it is open circuit.
Probably best to ask in the forums and see if any of the repair guys know what that's all about but they will need the make/model etc to help you. There's scores of repair guys in there so no doubt one of them will know.
You can find the forum here: www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forumsphpbb3
IHAVE A QUESTION for you:
on my Samsung top load washer -WA45H7200-, why is there ALLWAYS some water under my basket but in my tub AFTER THE END OF CYCLE? I can hear water moving if I handmove that kit.
Sellers told me it is NORMAL, it is for stabilising movements inside washer.
One told me it is not washing water, it would be "other water"...
IF PUMP IS UNDER tub bottom , why this stagnant water? futur odors?
Your opinion please?
I love your work
Thanks
Simon
Hi. Im doing the "beep" test on my beko magnetic pump. There is no beep until i turn the impeller by hand. Doing another test i seen on another video regarding a resistance test, shows the pump is fine at 0.15 on the multimeter. Any ideas, or am i doing it wrong?
Hi did you find the answer
Hi there- what should the resistance have been?
That would be specific to each model of motor. Google the motor model number for specs
so tell me, does it matter which way the impeller rotates, wires crossed?
Not in most modern self-reversing magnetic pumps, no.
WHen there was no beep when he tested the pump does he say it is "faulty" or does he say it was "working"?
He said it's faulty
what do you have your multi meter set to?
Hi, just set to a continuity test, simple buzz if there's a circuit and no buzz if there isn't.
+Kenneth Watt fast response thank you.
I tried 2 and no buzz
might have explained to us beginners exactly where the drain pump is situated in the machine... Stefan
We'd have thought that was obvious.
I liked the video, then you used a Fluke, sorry