I rolled my eyes a little when you said its the biggest technological improvement in over 100 yrs. But the more i watched, i was shocked its taken 100 yrs. These outlets need to be the standard.
@@DaruDhillon Whenever I install receptacles and switches , I do that as standard procedure for added safety Whether it's a metal or plastic box but what I use is the Scotch 33 electrical tape but the 1 1/2 inch wide tape for much better coverage
Only time will tell how good these are. I like the concept but any time you put plastic under constant stress it may create a problem over time as it ages. I’ve seen so many changes over the years that everyone thought was great then years down the road they found out there was a problem. The metal screw that screws into metal has been around forever and if installed correctly, the connection will last a lifetime. Just something to think about before you change everything in your home.
As a professional I no longer use Wagos. The point of contact in a snap connector is extremely small therefore limiting current carrying capacity. These are not safe under fully loaded circuits. Just my experience and opinion, been in the trades 38 years now, "quick and easy" never lasts.
I wouldn't use Wagos on an outlet where you could potentially plug in something that draws high amperage -- e.g., a hair dryer. I am 100% comfortable using wagos when wiring up something like LED ceiling lights that I know will draw very low amperage. For example, canless 5 or 6 inch LED ceiling lights draw about 10W (I see some ranging from 8W to 14W). Ten watts draws less than 1/10 of 1AMP (or 100mA). If you strip your wire properly and do not deform it then you will have plenty of contact area to carry that load. The connector will not heat up, and I would bet that it would function safely for over 100 years. On the other hand, I would not use Wagos to wire up 20A outlets in my garage where I sometimes operate corded power tools because I agree that there is less contact area in a Wago vs a *properly-connected* wire nut. Having said that, as a non-electrician, I have had to fix electrical circuits in multiple homes over the years in which professional electricians did not properly connect wires with wire nuts. I agree that a *properly* installed wire nut connection has less resistance than a Wago, but I would bet that a very large percentage of wire-nut connections in residential homes across the USA are poorly installed with wires that aren't stripped to the correct length or wire nuts that are too loose. I've probably seen it a dozen times.
Screws always loosten over time with thermal cycling, so you are dependent on copper welding to copper once this happens and arching has begun. Thats why aluminum wiring burns houses down, it does not weld, it just burns. Any spring loaded connection, like the lever, will stay tight, and if there are anything like teeth to dig in then vibrations and thermal cycling will cause wiping actions that keep the contact points free of oxidation so the electrical resistance stays low. Related, if you use any stranded wire into any connector that is not spring loaded, do not tin the wire with solder. The solder will compress over time and the connection will loosten, so leave the stranded wire bare. This is not a problem in a spring loaded connector. Former electrical maintenance technician 40 years.
Very good improvement over tried and true standards. Someone is to be commended for the work they did in making sure bare conductors are a thing of the past in most new electrical installations.
They make installations easier and faster, but not necessarily any safer. Sure, there aren't any screws to short on a box, or touch [which tape fixed for eons], but the industry has a very bad reputation with "stab-in" connectors. Having a leaver on the stab-in doesn't necessarily fix that. (Wago has had decades to make sure those things don't cause fires.) I'll stick with a screw that I can see has made a solid connection. (note: the Wago is transparent.) As for "TR"... those horrible things have been around for decades. And no one has ever built one that wasn't a cheap pile of crap that doesn't need a screwdriver and large hammer to use. If I have to break the receptacle to get the plug inserted, that totally defeats the purpose.
I agree about the old “back stabbing” old conventional duplex plugs. The contact area of those old “back stabbed” have only about 10% of the surface area between the wire and receptacle conductor. In these new wego style receptacles have as much or more contact than a wire rapped screw connection. When I was an electrician we never used the back stab method. We always rapped wire around the screws. IBEW 58 Detroit.
Hello to you in Detroit! Thank-you for sharing your experience as an electrician. Your thoughts on contact area are appreciated. I remove backstabs when I see them here too.
Hello to you in Detroit as well , Since you like the Wago connectors like I do , Just recently , They've become available at The Home Depot in Toledo Ohio , So check out The Home Depot in your area , They may be available there I agree with you 1000 percent that I never use back stabbing receptacles and switches , I always use commercial grade which has a pressure plate where you insert the wire and tighten the screw and the pressure plate grips very tight on the wire , Those back stabbing receptacles and switches should have never been put on the market
time will tell.... having seen, used and dealt with the backstab junk over the years and taught to NEVER use them in the mid 1990's, every single one I run into now has either caused a fire or melted itself and the wire jacket back to the box entrance. I do use push-in/wago/lever style for end devices, ballast replacement/bypass, otherwise I avoid them all. receptacles and devices should always be pigtail spliced, NEVER using them as feedthrough/continuance devices. but wire nuts(marrettes) should always be twisted tight enough the wires wrap around themselves and a bit of the wire jacketing also(solid wire) stranded just a bit of twisting. most install them limp wristed or pre-twist very poorly. been there and fixed many that way, people thought they did a good job and had loose arcing connections everywhere with foot traffic over the floors causing vibration and flexing. including some holidays with family, "gee why did the microwave suddenly quit working", (because your newer husband Bob wired it very badly). Bob returns home in the middle of me fixing the "his bad splice" at basement box under middle of kitchen floor. he says "gee that never should have failed, I stripped it way back, twisted it together and put on wire caps and electrical tape. yeah he did! stripped the wires well over an inch back, twisted them loosely counterclockwise, followed with an loose wire nut and tape to cover the rest of the bare wiring. 🙄 I "kindly" showed and explained to him what was wrong as I speedily the repaired the wires so the microwave could function to reheat some of "thanksgiving diner" or was that "christmas dinner". late 1990's, who recalls every detail anymore.
I hear you. Property installed outlets are great. Appreciate your insights because it’s true.The challenge is knowing all the steps to properly secure the terminals.
Yes, the old back-stabbed receptacles are an electricians dream. Not for the installer but for the repairman. They absolutely will fail and somebody will pay you to replace them. Money.
My whole house used the back stabbed connections, never had a failure in 27 years in a 3000 ft^2 home. Probably 65 plugs and 35 switches. Guess others had bad luck compared to me
@@johnlehew8192 Maybe lucky with the brand/model. There is risk of arcing with single point small contact, screws (smooth interface) also can back off over time from repeat high current use plugs with heating cooling cycles. 1970's was bad for aluminum wire and burning down houses. I had an issue when a lazy electrician used back-stabbed switch and failed in 5 years for only 200W lighting (4x50W 12V halogen pots). There was visible arcing but worked again once correctly moved to the screw terminals.
I haven't seen one of Daru Dhillon's videos in a while. So glad that this one randomly popped up. I was not aware that these 'new receptacles with levers' were available. Thanks for being a content creator and producing this for our benefit.
I have been using Wago connectors for several years and have been very happy with them. Just received free sample of this receptacle and waiting for opportunity to install it. I think one of primary benefits of this receptacle is avoiding problems with DIYers using backstabbing to connect wires.
Since you like the Wago connectors , Just recently in my area , They're now available at The Home Depot , They may be available at The Home Depot in your area
That type of receptacle is geared for the home owner and I'm sure plenty will be sold. However they are more expensive and you won't see many or any contractors using them for that reason. Also the "connection points" while fast and easy, they are not as good as screwed connections which have been around since receptacles came into existence and a proven way to effectively terminate wires on a device. The key to a solid connection with a wire is "pressure" and "surface area". With a "screwed connection" the wire "hook" around the screw is completely sandwiched between the head of the screw and the flat brass area it gets pulled against on the device . Once tightened its not moving. A "pressure connector" or a WAGO connector does not exert the same amount of pressure to the wire and the wire is much shorter than the "hook" giving it less "surface area" as well. These are the two key difference's between these types of receptacles. When you start running 12 or 16 amps through these receptacle's, connections matter. It takes more time and skill to "hook" your wires and "screw" them to the receptacle but its worth the effort.
You do bring up a good point -- cost alone is a reason professionals won't use them -- professionals -- screws are nothing -- so why spend the extra dough. For DIYers I can see the value, especially if you can get them for $2 a piece.
Lever nuts have been proven with reproducible testing by multiple organizations. The load capacity is comparable to wire nuts, and the strength of the connection is stronger and holds more weight in a hang test. The only thing that's better is solder and heat shrink. The only time I've seen them fail is when they are not used properly, which can also happen with wire nuts. I have no problem with them being integrated with receptacles or switches. I haven't seen it myself, but I've heard they hold up to screw terminals with shepherd's hooks.
Good video. I'd like to point out that in many homes, such as my own, which is 30 years old, the wiring is not necessarily white and black. I have yellow wires, for example. The way to find hot is to turn the circuit off, disconnect the wires, physically separate them, turn the circuit back on, and check with the voltage meter. (You can also leave them connected, and just unscrew the receptacle to get access to the hot/neutral wires.) It's the only way to be sure.
Good points Jack! Thanks for taking the time to help people out with this because it happens. I show how to do this in my GFCI video but not here. You have good advice!
Outstanding! Thank you for this great find and installation tutorial. I just swapped out several light switches in my 30 year old home. The electrical connection screws had become a bit loose and the lights were randomly flickering. (Not good!) I clicked on your Amazon link and I was pleasantly surprised to see (at the time of viewing 18 Feb 2024) $3.50 USD a per unit. I can't wait to obtain and install these. Thanks again.
This means safety sockets that exist since >20year in europe and are now mandatory by code, just appears in US. There are many other safety measures awaiting to be used in the US. For example: - every circuit must have a 30mA differential breaker from the main pannel. - metal tubes and boxes are forbidden as any error may induce electric shock - aluminium is not allowed - all breakers are 2 ways (cut live and neutral) - plugs do not allow to touch live or neutral (or to short them) even if they are not plugged completely... etc...
At the 4 minute mark she quite possibly smoked something in that house. Does anyone know if at the homerun box for that part of the room the electrician didn't pull a 14/3. Two hots sharing a neutral. That's why its important to pigtail your outlets. Now I can see in this box there's just the one circuit so probably ok, but if there was another hot buried in the box not good. In newer homes with all of the ARCH fault breakers not so much of an issue as they all need their own neutral. When you open a neutral on a hot circuit and something is running on said circuit it needs a way for power to get back to the panel. That power jumps onto the hot wire and you end up with 220 volts on the wire. I know this as when I was an apprentice back in the 80's we went to a service call in the subdivision we were working in. I was first year and didn't know any better but it was real quiet when the foreman opened the panel and saw none of the neutrals were tightened down. Over time they stopped making contact. I never heard what happened, but I think Gibson Elc bought a house full of replacement appliances. Every house in the Chicago market up till 2007ish we ran two hot one neutral. We pipe everything here in EMT so that hot/neutral sharing saved room in the pipe.
Amazing just amazing. It's about time someone came up with a safe way to wire an outlet. Old days electrical tape was run around the side to cover the screws
And why on Earth would you need need to cover the screws ??? I sure hope that you switch off the breaker when you install a switch so where's the problem ?
Yeah, every electrician is going to tell you that is not a good idea and they're going to fail.........."meaning", they're gonna be put out of business, in a way, but definitely is going to cut some of their business.
I still like to fasten wires with screw terminals, though I prefer the type where you install the wire through a hole the back. The Wago type only provide a pinpoint contact that is held by spring tension. This may work at first but after many years of high current (slightly less than rated) they will fail.
4:40 So the box extender is small enough to fix inside the old metal box in the wall? It sure doesn't look that way. Otherwise the box extender would bump into the old box which is probably nailed to a stud and won't move.
So when you leave the jobsite and all the other trades are finishing up and they keep cutting through the wall opening or the drywaller on a Friday afternoon tired of cutting for your boxes cuts a crooked hole…so with these overly tall devices you can no longer straighten the look of the two gang box…does the other trade get blamed for the crooked box …nope….these style of connections work ok solid copper but for stranded wire not so good so in piped in outlets where strained is pulled in instead of solid you either do the little anti fire dance and say a prayer that the stranded wire stays tight in the lever joints….add wire nuts and solid wire tails adding to your box fill and adding another possible joint that could fail because we also have bad Friday afternoons…or we pull solid wire and that goes over like a lead ballon..
Pro Tip from a Licensed Electrician of 30 yrs... when you have 2 or more sets of wires in a box, attach a "tail" to each set. This creates a "parallel" circuit as oppose to a "series" circuit, meaning that the circuit has to run THROUGH the outlet in order to continue down to the next device. If that outlet fails, all the devices down line will no longer work. A parallel circuit taps the "hot" to energized each individual device so if it fails, only THAT device fails and the rest of the circuit continues to work.
Thanks for adding your insights on this. I agree it’s a much better way of wiring. Something I personally didn’t know early on but it makes complete sense. It’s a smart way of wiring. Appreciate you sharing this helpful information with us!
Nice! I was looking for what exists along the line of 'box extenders'. Had installed a GFCI in bathroom years ago, but never seated it in wall properly, was trying to correct that, and discovered the old metal box has some load wires coming in from the side, that stick into the box so much that the GFCI can't be fully inserted. Am looking to find a non-conductive material to safely extend the metal box. Nice presentation! Thank you!
Wago’s being used successfully for years in Europe doesn’t necessarily mean they’re safe for use in the USA. Europe uses 240 V, so the current drawn by the same devices is one-half of what it would draw in the USA with our 120 V supply voltage. It’s current that causes the heat when the connection becomes resistive, so the USA (and Canada that also uses 120 V) need to ensure we end up with roughly half the resistance in our connections compared to Europe in order to avoid thermal issues. An electrical connection with more surface area in intimate contact between the two conductors will have less resistance than a connection with less surface area in intimate contact. Intimate contact means air-tight, which keeps oxygen from corroding the conductive surfaces and building up resistance. High clamping force helps form more intimate contact. A tightly-torqued screw terminal can exert enormous force compared to the spring contacts of the old rear ported receptacles. The lever almost certainly creates more force than the old spring contact, but likely falls well short of a tightly-torqued screw.
Not good, but well is nothing better than the screwed wire , those pressure taps with time gets loose creating not a solution but another problem same happens when you stabbed the outlet with the wire in .
Why didn't you just push the outlet through the extender instead of removing the wiring. It worked properly for who knows how many years.....If the exposed screws concern you, a few turns of vinyl tape easily corrects the problem. If it works, leave it alone.
I like the WAGO connector but found that the tabs can release when installing the receptacle into the box. The Ideal connector fixes this problem by having an improved, two-step locking mechanisms. These connectors are UL listed.
These actually are very bad. You cannot see if the wire is all the way in and when you put the outlet into the box, you cannot see if it has slipped out. This is a fire hazard. The screws are torqued down and provide a more consistent connection. With loose connections, arcing can occur and the wiring will overheat because you're sending too much current through that weak connection. Effectively, if you have 14AWG wiring and you have a poor connection, it may be behaving as 24AWG at that point. The worries about the screws touching a metal box... come on, that isn't an issue. You turn off the breaker while you're working on it and then you secure the outlet before you turn it back on. Also, professionals tend you wrap the outlet with electrical tape, covering the screws.
Backstabbing electrical was not legal in my area for obvious reasons and DIYers never got it right. This product will make things much safer for everyone.
Interesting product. I'm not a fan of Wagos. Wagos and these recepticles look like they'd work fine in light to medium loads but I want the security of a screw in heavy loads. (Kitchen, bath & garage) I will not install the older "push to connect" system which this product looks to be an upgrade. For the last few years I've been using only the hole style wire receiver but with the screw they just seem far more secure than the toggle system.
What a great upgrade/idea. Are there any that have built in USB? And I like the idea of the night lights that are part of the plate, but without exposed screws, I’m assuming those will not work
I was expecting the price of these receptacles to be around 10$ or more each... But at 3.99$, it's a damn good thing. It's about time they finally upgraded this thing.
I'm not sold on lever terminals over screw terminals. I've used the Wago lever connectors to install fixtures and outlets and I noticed flickering, early life bulb burnout, delay on bulb turning on. I don't think the lever provides good enough contact, where as the screw can be tightened down hard.
Lever nuts have been proven with reproducible testing by multiple organizations. The load capacity is comparable to wire nuts, and the strength of the connection is stronger and holds more weight in a hang test. The only thing that's better is solder and heat shrink. The only time I've seen them fail is when they are not used properly, which can also happen with wire nuts. I have no problem with them being integrated with receptacles or switches. I haven't seen it myself, but I've heard they hold up to screw terminals with shepherd's hooks.
I love it! I have a dimmer switch I need to replace - I wonder if this technology is available for dimmer switches. Thank you for making me aware of this.
Good job! my house has those metal boxes, so even with electrical tape wrapped around the terminals there can be problems if you have to really push things around. BTW Sometimes its better to just clip off the ends of the wires rather than straightening them out.. You need to get them really straight and that can be tough or they can even fatigue and break...
As a professional electrician I would not touch these things. Hubbell, Legrand and others sell commercial outlets that squeeze the wires between two plates, not between two thin rods. I have worked with industrial terminals that use the same concept and have a greater failure rate than the traditional terminals. Besides, do you really want a bargain outlet in your house with your family?
Thanks for posting this. I read that the UK has the safest outlets in the world. Yes, we are playing catch up here in North America. Europe is way ahead in this. Your receptacles sound amazing!
Why in the world did the manufacturer put the ground and hot wire on the same side. It’s always been ground and neutral on the same side. I don’t like it.
Good question Randy! I called them before shooting this video to ask. Here's what they said. They moved it because it was easier to for people to install the ground that way. They tested standard vs the new location and they found the new location made installation easier. Let us know if you think the move is good?
Good informative video except she should have explained why the old outlet had two sets of black and white wires. Were there two separate circuits which would require the removal of the copper tab in the back or was the old outlet being used as a junction to continue a circuit? If it was the latter, then the two sets of wires should have been connected together and a pigtail used to connect the new outlet.
I love the idea of the keys on the receptacles to speed up alignment in multi gang applications, that’s a welcome feature for sure. It sure beats setting the switches and receptacles going by the screw slots. Dead center on the screw slots of multiple receptacles, or switches, will usually get you well into the happy zone.
Looks ok but I have one problem with the design. Why is the ground wire on the hot side not on the neutral side like it would be a major failure point in the design
Your T&G feature, hand it to the standard DIYer and they will still screw it up. No one reads instructions in the real world. All you do is tighten-up the first outlet or switch, loosely attach the second snug, and hold the cover back-to-front and wiggle the clearance. Pull off the plate and continue to tighten. There is a thing called screw creep, and the fixture may torque/move from the initial set. You can not centre what you can not see as well. Plus the metal dog ears are designed to be cut off in situations of retro-fit to flush mount boxes. These are new construction or old preexisting behind drywall mounted boxes.
You talk about back stabbing outlets as bad, but there are back stabbing outlets that have screws on the sides that clamp the wires in the back stabbed holes. They are the best of both worlds (easy and good tight positive contact). Doesn't solve the exposed metal on the sides, though.
Good point. The screws that lock the wires are an improvement and are commonly used in other countries. Thanks for clarifying. I was referring to the old push in ones but having a locking mechanism be it lever or screw is a good feature that makes electrical safer and user friendly.
Yea, I bought 10 to try it out. It'll be so much easier than wrapping the wires around each screw. I'm replacing all my switches and receptacles so I need something that saves time. @@DaruDhillon
Put a one of these in the attic while hot, carefully took wire nuts off, clipped wire one at atime not to short anything, already placed pigtails in plug then just used wago to wire in the plug.
How well do they hold onto 12 gauge wiring when your trying to manipulate the receptacle into a 20 cubic inch single gang box !? I’m guessing the contacts are going to be getting stressed to the point of letting go ! I can imagine them working wonderfully on 15 amp circuits however. But there is always going to be the old schoolers who would never “back stab”, and never rely on a “lever connect”. Kind of like many of the old school plumbers just can’t wrap their heads around push connect plumbing fittings. You can’t argue with them though, after being in the trades for 30-40 years…these boys (and some of the older ladies), know what works, AND WHAT DOESN’T !
I think a big thing to address is how to start integrating USB (and USB-C EPR, specifically) into modern wiring. USB-C runs at 5V but up to 48 amps. Most household outlets are still 120V15A (at least in the US), which is simply not enough for certain use cases anymore - especially with the advent of EVs in homes. Ideally I'd like every single circuit in my house to be 240V30A capable, and for each plug IN each receptacle to be 120V20A capable. But then running a 50A capable wire along each 20A wire PER plug is a loooot of hot wires with a lot of insulation. I worry if that's even thermally responsible unless the installation has minimal slack in the wiring to allow them to be as straight as possible.
I’m in any one of about 10 Home Depot’s 3-4 times per week for the last 10 years at least. Those things got put on the discounted end cap of the aisle in no time after they came out. Probably not more than 2 months. They’re constantly sold out of the 20 amp decora receptacle ten packs for a reason. I haven’t tried this new style yet but I’m guessing a lot of other guys haven’t either. I think people like the feeling of twisting the screwdriver and actually feeling the torque when you tighten it. I’m confident of the connection.
Oh my god the world is ending. Just look at all the comments by professional electricians. Progress threatens incumbents. Remember when calculators were finally allowed into the classroom?
those receptacles are a really good idea. The only concern I would have is that if you split the outlet you still have a shared neutral. It looks as if the outlet only separates the hot wire.
When straightening the wires: IF you have enough excess wire, CUT those curves off an strip back to what you need for your receptacle/switch. You weaken the wire by bending it back to a straight configuration.
I want all of these in my house! Question for you. I have a bunch of those screw-in boxes that turn a 2 outlet into a 4 with usb ports. they should sit flush to the wall but they have like a quarter inch gap, this makes them wiggle back and forth when you use them - is there a way to set the outlets back a little further so they sit flush?
Yes, for $2 ea. totally worth it!! If they were like $5 each, I'd say no -- the old ones are a slight pain in the ass -- but you do get to be really good with them after installing a few. But yeah for $2 a pop -- yep worth it!! Great video btw! They didn't have these when I did all my outlets -- but one good choice I made was installing the largest possible electrical boxes they sold -- that was a good one -- oh such a pain if you working in a small box with tons of wires, something that you should maybe cover in another video -- even better than your extender tip.
I use Wagos like everyone else but I’m also old enough to know that some plastics deteriorate and become brittle over time. I’m curious how modern construction will hold up in the next 30+ years.
I think this is great idea as long as it has been engineered better than the old push in back connectors that would always fail (I ended up rewiring every outlet in our last when they just started failing one after another). Also, I would like it if there was an option to buy these without the tamper proof “feature.” When we had the kitchen remodeled in our current house, we couldn’t plug anything into half of them! I just swapped them all out after the inspector left 😊
Thanks for sharing your experience. I’ve heard that some don’t like that feature. I understand it for seniors. Was it a particular brand that wasn’t good? Or in general? Curious.
ha. good point. As an adult with no kids, I loathe TR outlets unless it's something that's always plugged in like the coffee maker. Anything that has to get plugged in as I go - a tool, a shop vac - what a pain in the sss.
Don't buy tamper resistant outlets, they are dangerous. People push too hard on them to plug into the outlet and cause the outlet to bend until it shorts out. This is an example where a codes don't make logical or practical sense.
Geez, electrical outlets have had spring clips for quick wire insertions for over 20 years. The major difference here is you don’t need a tool to release the wire. So what, you don’t remove the wire often. Most experienced electricians refuse to use the “push-in” holes at rear of duplex outlet because the spring clips have little surface area for connection. Also, if you wiggle the wire enough, it can come out of receptacle. If there was a 12 A space heater plugged into the outlet, I have greater confidence for safety with a looped, screwed down wire connection.
The manufacturer is making them more homeowner safety concern. As journeyman we don't have a problem using metal boxes etc. TR is a consumer friendly product design as well.
Thanks for those points Robert. Very true! I actually prefer metal boxes over plastic because they are incredibly durable and fireproof. More expensive so plastic has good value.
I use WAGO. This change is less about safety but about lowering labor costs and more consistent wiring outcomes. I would call Tamper Resistance a far better safety upgrade.
Would not be worth it to me. Tamper proof standard receptacles have ben mandatory for at least 7 years now and most people only use the screw terminals if they really need to. The push in back wiring is quick and easy and I always tighten the unused terminal screws so there is little chance of contacting the metal box. These are very nice receptacles but I would not pay extra for them. And the screwless box covers are more money too. Not a big deal if you are only replacing a couple of receptacles but price out the difference on a hundred outlets and you see these would be very expensive for a whole house installation.
And just how much do these "upgrades" cost us? Will our homeowners insurance go down? I'm sure that the manufacturer did all this out of the goodness of their hearts. I prefer all plastic outlet boxes and conduit and just connect the ground wires inside it. Eliminate all metal except where nothing else will do.
Did that steel box get swallowed by the wall with wires going through it, or had you pulled it out? I will never know unless you tell me. One still needs a box with these don't they? I would like to see a brand new installation with this new stuff using a box fastened to a stud, which I also believe is required. One never wants dingly dangly stuff but wants everything solid, and straight up. I am a novice who just wants to get it right.
Those type of connections are NOT better than a screw. They fail more often. The contact surface is only a fraction of what a screwed type connection does. If you know anything about electricity surface or section diameter limits the amount of current that will pass before things heat up. They are only used because it is quicker. The electrical contractor won't charge you less because he gets the job done faster. He will put more money in his pocket.
Considering most modern appliances require 20 Amp receptacles, at a minimum, I would think Leviton would see the economic benefits of creating one; who uses a 15 Amp receptacle anymore?@@DaruDhillon
Maybe they are going through an expensive & secretive UL testing for the 20 Amp? But if that was the case it would have made economic sense to first certify the more commonly used 20 Amp receptacle@@DaruDhillon
I rolled my eyes a little when you said its the biggest technological improvement in over 100 yrs. But the more i watched, i was shocked its taken 100 yrs. These outlets need to be the standard.
You’re on point. It’s sounds overstated like you say but little has changed in that time which is surprising compared to other countries.
Those outlets are as much junk as wagos, there for lazy electricians, and expensive.
Old school wires around the screws always if you’re worried about shorts wrap scotch 33 black electrical tape
Excellent tip Robert! Thanks. Just wrapped some tonight.
@@DaruDhillon Whenever I install receptacles and switches , I do that as standard procedure for added safety
Whether it's a metal or plastic box but what I use is the Scotch 33 electrical tape but the 1 1/2 inch wide tape for much better coverage
I'm getting ready to totally rewire a house I just bought. I really like these new type of outlets. Thank you for posting this video.
You're welcome!
Only time will tell how good these are. I like the concept but any time you put plastic under constant stress it may create a problem over time as it ages. I’ve seen so many changes over the years that everyone thought was great then years down the road they found out there was a problem. The metal screw that screws into metal has been around forever and if installed correctly, the connection will last a lifetime. Just something to think about before you change everything in your home.
@@polyuniverse1908 all they had to add is a plastic snap on cover to existing screw types to isolate from exposure. but then ...no added sales
I really expected these to be more expensive, but $21 for a 10-pack is very reasonable!
That's so true. I expected the same thing but was surprised too! If you have the time let us know what you think of them. All the best!
As a professional I no longer use Wagos. The point of contact in a snap connector is extremely small therefore limiting current carrying capacity. These are not safe under fully loaded circuits. Just my experience and opinion, been in the trades 38 years now, "quick and easy" never lasts.
Yet they are UL approved and have been used all over Canada and Europe for years.
Thanks for sharing your take Scott. It’s important to hear all perspectives and experiences.
This is important to know. They have been tested by US and Canadian regulators and are UL listed.
I wouldn't use Wagos on an outlet where you could potentially plug in something that draws high amperage -- e.g., a hair dryer. I am 100% comfortable using wagos when wiring up something like LED ceiling lights that I know will draw very low amperage. For example, canless 5 or 6 inch LED ceiling lights draw about 10W (I see some ranging from 8W to 14W). Ten watts draws less than 1/10 of 1AMP (or 100mA). If you strip your wire properly and do not deform it then you will have plenty of contact area to carry that load. The connector will not heat up, and I would bet that it would function safely for over 100 years.
On the other hand, I would not use Wagos to wire up 20A outlets in my garage where I sometimes operate corded power tools because I agree that there is less contact area in a Wago vs a *properly-connected* wire nut. Having said that, as a non-electrician, I have had to fix electrical circuits in multiple homes over the years in which professional electricians did not properly connect wires with wire nuts. I agree that a *properly* installed wire nut connection has less resistance than a Wago, but I would bet that a very large percentage of wire-nut connections in residential homes across the USA are poorly installed with wires that aren't stripped to the correct length or wire nuts that are too loose. I've probably seen it a dozen times.
Wago's are amazing. I've watched plenty of videos regarding large loads on Wagos and they perform very well.
Screws always loosten over time with thermal cycling, so you are dependent on copper welding to copper once this happens and arching has begun. Thats why aluminum wiring burns houses down, it does not weld, it just burns. Any spring loaded connection, like the lever, will stay tight, and if there are anything like teeth to dig in then vibrations and thermal cycling will cause wiping actions that keep the contact points free of oxidation so the electrical resistance stays low. Related, if you use any stranded wire into any connector that is not spring loaded, do not tin the wire with solder. The solder will compress over time and the connection will loosten, so leave the stranded wire bare. This is not a problem in a spring loaded connector. Former electrical maintenance technician 40 years.
Are you serious? You don't have a clue about what you are talking about.
Very good improvement over tried and true standards. Someone is to be commended for the work they did in making sure bare conductors are a thing of the past in most new electrical installations.
They make installations easier and faster, but not necessarily any safer. Sure, there aren't any screws to short on a box, or touch [which tape fixed for eons], but the industry has a very bad reputation with "stab-in" connectors. Having a leaver on the stab-in doesn't necessarily fix that. (Wago has had decades to make sure those things don't cause fires.) I'll stick with a screw that I can see has made a solid connection. (note: the Wago is transparent.)
As for "TR"... those horrible things have been around for decades. And no one has ever built one that wasn't a cheap pile of crap that doesn't need a screwdriver and large hammer to use. If I have to break the receptacle to get the plug inserted, that totally defeats the purpose.
Thanks for sharing your perspective and thoughts . on the updates. It's good to hear from you.
I agree about the old “back stabbing” old conventional duplex plugs. The contact area of those old “back stabbed” have only about 10% of the surface area between the wire and receptacle conductor. In these new wego style receptacles have as much or more contact than a wire rapped screw connection. When I was an electrician we never used the back stab method. We always rapped wire around the screws. IBEW 58 Detroit.
Hello to you in Detroit! Thank-you for sharing your experience as an electrician. Your thoughts on contact area are appreciated. I remove backstabs when I see them here too.
Hello to you in Detroit as well , Since you like the Wago connectors like I do ,
Just recently , They've become available at The Home Depot in Toledo Ohio , So check out The Home Depot in your area , They may be available there
I agree with you 1000 percent that I never use back stabbing receptacles and switches , I always use commercial grade which has a pressure plate where you insert the wire and tighten the screw and the pressure plate grips very tight on the wire , Those back stabbing receptacles and switches should have never been put on the market
time will tell.... having seen, used and dealt with the backstab junk over the years and taught to NEVER use them in the mid 1990's, every single one I run into now has either caused a fire or melted itself and the wire jacket back to the box entrance. I do use push-in/wago/lever style for end devices, ballast replacement/bypass, otherwise I avoid them all.
receptacles and devices should always be pigtail spliced, NEVER using them as feedthrough/continuance devices.
but wire nuts(marrettes) should always be twisted tight enough the wires wrap around themselves and a bit of the wire jacketing also(solid wire) stranded just a bit of twisting.
most install them limp wristed or pre-twist very poorly. been there and fixed many that way, people thought they did a good job and had loose arcing connections everywhere with foot traffic over the floors causing vibration and flexing. including some holidays with family, "gee why did the microwave suddenly quit working", (because your newer husband Bob wired it very badly). Bob returns home in the middle of me fixing the "his bad splice" at basement box under middle of kitchen floor. he says "gee that never should have failed, I stripped it way back, twisted it together and put on wire caps and electrical tape. yeah he did! stripped the wires well over an inch back, twisted them loosely counterclockwise, followed with an loose wire nut and tape to cover the rest of the bare wiring. 🙄 I "kindly" showed and explained to him what was wrong as I speedily the repaired the wires so the microwave could function to reheat some of "thanksgiving diner" or was that "christmas dinner". late 1990's, who recalls every detail anymore.
i remember tearing out old backstabbed outlets after failures. nothing beats properly screwed terminals for good contact.
I hear you. Property installed outlets are great. Appreciate your insights because it’s true.The challenge is knowing all the steps to properly secure the terminals.
Yes, the old back-stabbed receptacles are an electricians dream. Not for the installer but for the repairman. They absolutely will fail and somebody will pay you to replace them. Money.
My whole house used the back stabbed connections, never had a failure in 27 years in a 3000 ft^2 home. Probably 65 plugs and 35 switches. Guess others had bad luck compared to me
@@johnlehew8192 Maybe lucky with the brand/model. There is risk of arcing with single point small contact, screws (smooth interface) also can back off over time from repeat high current use plugs with heating cooling cycles. 1970's was bad for aluminum wire and burning down houses. I had an issue when a lazy electrician used back-stabbed switch and failed in 5 years for only 200W lighting (4x50W 12V halogen pots). There was visible arcing but worked again once correctly moved to the screw terminals.
@@johnlehew8192 Were they back-stabbed or rear wired? And if back-stabbed, we’re they under heavy use? And we’re they through wired or pig tailed?
I haven't seen one of Daru Dhillon's videos in a while.
So glad that this one randomly popped up.
I was not aware that these 'new receptacles with levers' were available.
Thanks for being a content creator and producing this for our benefit.
Welcome back! Good to hear from you. I’m glad you enjoyed the video. More to come. I appreciate to taking the time to say hi!
I have been using Wago connectors for several years and have been very happy with them. Just received free sample of this receptacle and waiting for opportunity to install it. I think one of primary benefits of this receptacle is avoiding problems with DIYers using backstabbing to connect wires.
That’s a good point about DIYers. This is designed with homeowners in mind. Thanks for sharing your take on Wagos I love hearing reviews like yours.
You are welcome. Looking forward to your next video.
Since you like the Wago connectors , Just recently in my area , They're now available at The Home Depot , They may be available at The Home Depot in your area
@ironmartysharpe8293 They have been available at my local HD for awhile. Thanks
@@sjpropertyservices3987 You're welcome
I really like the five conductor Wago's. They are great for multiples grounds.
Good tip! They are great. Thanks for sharing that with us. It's important to know what you like!
I been waiting for this product improvement. It is perfect. Nice presentation! Glad I found you. definitely subscribing .
Welcome, glad you found us!
That type of receptacle is geared for the home owner and I'm sure plenty will be sold. However they are more expensive and you won't see many or any contractors using them for that reason. Also the "connection points" while fast and easy, they are not as good as screwed connections which have been around since receptacles came into existence and a proven way to effectively terminate wires on a device. The key to a solid connection with a wire is "pressure" and "surface area". With a "screwed connection" the wire "hook" around the screw is completely sandwiched between the head of the screw and the flat brass area it gets pulled against on the device . Once tightened its not moving. A "pressure connector" or a WAGO connector does not exert the same amount of pressure to the wire and the wire is much shorter than the "hook" giving it less "surface area" as well. These are the two key difference's between these types of receptacles. When you start running 12 or 16 amps through these receptacle's, connections matter. It takes more time and skill to "hook" your wires and "screw" them to the receptacle but its worth the effort.
Thanks for sharing your insights on the benefits of screw terminals. They go the distance!
Very good reply and so accurate. Ty @harrison
You do bring up a good point -- cost alone is a reason professionals won't use them -- professionals -- screws are nothing -- so why spend the extra dough.
For DIYers I can see the value, especially if you can get them for $2 a piece.
Lever nuts have been proven with reproducible testing by multiple organizations. The load capacity is comparable to wire nuts, and the strength of the connection is stronger and holds more weight in a hang test. The only thing that's better is solder and heat shrink. The only time I've seen them fail is when they are not used properly, which can also happen with wire nuts. I have no problem with them being integrated with receptacles or switches. I haven't seen it myself, but I've heard they hold up to screw terminals with shepherd's hooks.
@@michaeltaylor5939 "I haven't seen it myself"...........I have
Love those receptacles, love this video! Thank YOU for reinforcing my drive to “do it myself”❣️🐅
Good video. I'd like to point out that in many homes, such as my own, which is 30 years old, the wiring is not necessarily white and black. I have yellow wires, for example. The way to find hot is to turn the circuit off, disconnect the wires, physically separate them, turn the circuit back on, and check with the voltage meter. (You can also leave them connected, and just unscrew the receptacle to get access to the hot/neutral wires.) It's the only way to be sure.
Good points Jack! Thanks for taking the time to help people out with this because it happens. I show how to do this in my GFCI video but not here. You have good advice!
Outstanding! Thank you for this great find and installation tutorial. I just swapped out several light switches in my 30 year old home. The electrical connection screws had become a bit loose and the lights were randomly flickering. (Not good!) I clicked on your Amazon link and I was pleasantly surprised to see (at the time of viewing 18 Feb 2024) $3.50 USD a per unit. I can't wait to obtain and install these. Thanks again.
Thanks for letting us know Richard and for the price update. It’s good to know.
This means safety sockets that exist since >20year in europe and are now mandatory by code, just appears in US. There are many other safety measures awaiting to be used in the US. For example:
- every circuit must have a 30mA differential breaker from the main pannel.
- metal tubes and boxes are forbidden as any error may induce electric shock
- aluminium is not allowed
- all breakers are 2 ways (cut live and neutral)
- plugs do not allow to touch live or neutral (or to short them) even if they are not plugged completely...
etc...
At the 4 minute mark she quite possibly smoked something in that house. Does anyone know if at the homerun box for that part of the room the electrician didn't pull a 14/3. Two hots sharing a neutral. That's why its important to pigtail your outlets. Now I can see in this box there's just the one circuit so probably ok, but if there was another hot buried in the box not good. In newer homes with all of the ARCH fault breakers not so much of an issue as they all need their own neutral. When you open a neutral on a hot circuit and something is running on said circuit it needs a way for power to get back to the panel. That power jumps onto the hot wire and you end up with 220 volts on the wire. I know this as when I was an apprentice back in the 80's we went to a service call in the subdivision we were working in. I was first year and didn't know any better but it was real quiet when the foreman opened the panel and saw none of the neutrals were tightened down. Over time they stopped making contact. I never heard what happened, but I think Gibson Elc bought a house full of replacement appliances. Every house in the Chicago market up till 2007ish we ran two hot one neutral. We pipe everything here in EMT so that hot/neutral sharing saved room in the pipe.
Amazing just amazing. It's about time someone came up with a safe way to wire an outlet. Old days electrical tape was run around the side to cover the screws
screws were already invented.
Now if they could just improve how toilet seats are fastened to the toilet LOL
@@sundogaudio851 true but brains? thats another matter
@@geraldslonaker3289it already does, you didn't know ? 😎
And why on Earth would you need need to cover the screws ??? I sure hope that you switch off the breaker when you install a switch so where's the problem ?
Yeah, every electrician is going to tell you that is not a good idea and they're going to fail.........."meaning", they're gonna be put out of business, in a way, but definitely is going to cut some of their business.
I still like to fasten wires with screw terminals, though I prefer the type where you install the wire through a hole the back. The Wago type only provide a pinpoint contact that is held by spring tension. This may work at first but after many years of high current (slightly less than rated) they will fail.
All spring loaded connector is just problem in development.Screw only for good install.
4:40 So the box extender is small enough to fix inside the old metal box in the wall? It sure doesn't look that way. Otherwise the box extender would bump into the old box which is probably nailed to a stud and won't move.
So when you leave the jobsite and all the other trades are finishing up and they keep cutting through the wall opening or the drywaller on a Friday afternoon tired of cutting for your boxes cuts a crooked hole…so with these overly tall devices you can no longer straighten the look of the two gang box…does the other trade get blamed for the crooked box …nope….these style of connections work ok solid copper but for stranded wire not so good so in piped in outlets where strained is pulled in instead of solid you either do the little anti fire dance and say a prayer that the stranded wire stays tight in the lever joints….add wire nuts and solid wire tails adding to your box fill and adding another possible joint that could fail because we also have bad Friday afternoons…or we pull solid wire and that goes over like a lead ballon..
Pro Tip from a Licensed Electrician of 30 yrs... when you have 2 or more sets of wires in a box, attach a "tail" to each set. This creates a "parallel" circuit as oppose to a "series" circuit, meaning that the circuit has to run THROUGH the outlet in order to continue down to the next device. If that outlet fails, all the devices down line will no longer work. A parallel circuit taps the "hot" to energized each individual device so if it fails, only THAT device fails and the rest of the circuit continues to work.
Thanks for adding your insights on this. I agree it’s a much better way of wiring. Something I personally didn’t know early on but it makes complete sense. It’s a smart way of wiring. Appreciate you sharing this helpful information with us!
Nice! I was looking for what exists along the line of 'box extenders'. Had installed a GFCI in bathroom years ago, but never seated it in wall properly, was trying to correct that, and discovered the old metal box has some load wires coming in from the side, that stick into the box so much that the GFCI can't be fully inserted. Am looking to find a non-conductive material to safely extend the metal box. Nice presentation! Thank you!
@@darkandstarrysky5175 glad it helped. It’s good that you are taking the time update your electrical. Great job!
Here is a tip- teach your children not to stick things in receptacles, we had none of this crap growing up.
Wago’s being used successfully for years in Europe doesn’t necessarily mean they’re safe for use in the USA. Europe uses 240 V, so the current drawn by the same devices is one-half of what it would draw in the USA with our 120 V supply voltage. It’s current that causes the heat when the connection becomes resistive, so the USA (and Canada that also uses 120 V) need to ensure we end up with roughly half the resistance in our connections compared to Europe in order to avoid thermal issues.
An electrical connection with more surface area in intimate contact between the two conductors will have less resistance than a connection with less surface area in intimate contact. Intimate contact means air-tight, which keeps oxygen from corroding the conductive surfaces and building up resistance. High clamping force helps form more intimate contact. A tightly-torqued screw terminal can exert enormous force compared to the spring contacts of the old rear ported receptacles. The lever almost certainly creates more force than the old spring contact, but likely falls well short of a tightly-torqued screw.
Thank-you for your feedback on this!
Not good, but well is nothing better than the screwed wire , those pressure taps with time gets loose creating not a solution but another problem same happens when you stabbed the outlet with the wire in .
Ground DOWN.. YEAH !!!! finally some are getting right!!!
Why didn't you just push the outlet through the extender instead of removing the wiring. It worked properly for who knows how many years.....If the exposed screws concern you, a few turns of vinyl tape easily corrects the problem. If it works, leave it alone.
It’s not to code, it has to be fixed and was.
I like the WAGO connector but found that the tabs can release when installing the receptacle into the box. The Ideal connector fixes this problem by having an improved, two-step locking mechanisms. These connectors are UL listed.
Thanks for sharing your advice. I’ll look into this. Appreciate it!
These actually are very bad. You cannot see if the wire is all the way in and when you put the outlet into the box, you cannot see if it has slipped out. This is a fire hazard. The screws are torqued down and provide a more consistent connection. With loose connections, arcing can occur and the wiring will overheat because you're sending too much current through that weak connection. Effectively, if you have 14AWG wiring and you have a poor connection, it may be behaving as 24AWG at that point.
The worries about the screws touching a metal box... come on, that isn't an issue. You turn off the breaker while you're working on it and then you secure the outlet before you turn it back on. Also, professionals tend you wrap the outlet with electrical tape, covering the screws.
The UL label means it tested your conjecture of it being unsafe.
Thank You. This looks like a great product. Who makes these? Very good video. I have subscribed to your channel.
Thanks for the sub! They are made by Leviton, a leading US manufacturer of electrical outlets and switches.
Backstabbing electrical was not legal in my area for obvious reasons and DIYers never got it right. This product will make things much safer for everyone.
Agreed, backstabbing wasn’t good. Good insight. Thanks for sharing your thoughts!
Interesting product. I'm not a fan of Wagos. Wagos and these recepticles look like they'd work fine in light to medium loads but I want the security of a screw in heavy loads. (Kitchen, bath & garage) I will not install the older "push to connect" system which this product looks to be an upgrade. For the last few years I've been using only the hole style wire receiver but with the screw they just seem far more secure than the toggle system.
The screw in ports are also good like you say. Thanks for sharing your experience with the connectors.
What a great upgrade/idea. Are there any that have built in USB?
And I like the idea of the night lights that are part of the plate, but without exposed screws, I’m assuming those will not work
That’s a good idea. Not yet. We’ll keep you posted on all updates
I was expecting the price of these receptacles to be around 10$ or more each... But at 3.99$, it's a damn good thing.
It's about time they finally upgraded this thing.
MIND BLOWN !!!!! Total game changer! I won't go changing all of my outlets, but I'm going to use these from now on. Thanks for sharing!
I'm not sold on lever terminals over screw terminals. I've used the Wago lever connectors to install fixtures and outlets and I noticed flickering, early life bulb burnout, delay on bulb turning on. I don't think the lever provides good enough contact, where as the screw can be tightened down hard.
Lever nuts have been proven with reproducible testing by multiple organizations. The load capacity is comparable to wire nuts, and the strength of the connection is stronger and holds more weight in a hang test. The only thing that's better is solder and heat shrink. The only time I've seen them fail is when they are not used properly, which can also happen with wire nuts. I have no problem with them being integrated with receptacles or switches. I haven't seen it myself, but I've heard they hold up to screw terminals with shepherd's hooks.
I love it! I have a dimmer switch I need to replace - I wonder if this technology is available for dimmer switches. Thank you for making me aware of this.
Glad to hear you like it! This isn't available in dimmers yet but we'll keep you posted. Good idea.
Good job! my house has those metal boxes, so even with electrical tape wrapped around the terminals there can be problems if you have to really push things around. BTW Sometimes its better to just clip off the ends of the wires rather than straightening them out.. You need to get them really straight and that can be tough or they can even fatigue and break...
Yes, these outlets are definitely a winner if you have metal boxes.
As a professional electrician I would not touch these things. Hubbell, Legrand and others sell commercial outlets that squeeze the wires between two plates, not between two thin rods. I have worked with industrial terminals that use the same concept and have a greater failure rate than the traditional terminals. Besides, do you really want a bargain outlet in your house with your family?
Thanks for taking the time to share your experience and advice on commercial grade outlets.
Yeah those are way better. And the improvements just make sense. Why did it take this long?
Good question! A lot of people would like to know.
Thanks, would you please give us the link where to buy it? What brand and model number?
Hi Anna, the link and outlet information is in the description box. Thanks!
Finally catching up to the UK? Except the UK is even safer as the Earth prong is longer and opens the tabs to the powered connectors
Thanks for posting this. I read that the UK has the safest outlets in the world. Yes, we are playing catch up here in North America. Europe is way ahead in this. Your receptacles sound amazing!
Metal boxes are not dangerous. They are standard in applications where metal conduit are used.
Agreed metal boxes aren’t dangerous. I wire with them often but they are conductive.
Why in the world did the manufacturer put the ground and hot wire on the same side. It’s always been ground and neutral on the same side. I don’t like it.
Good question Randy! I called them before shooting this video to ask. Here's what they said. They moved it because it was easier to for people to install the ground that way. They tested standard vs the new location and they found the new location made installation easier. Let us know if you think the move is good?
Very informative.
Thank you for publishing this.
I will look into updating my whole house.
Good informative video except she should have explained why the old outlet had two sets of black and white wires. Were there two separate circuits which would require the removal of the copper tab in the back or was the old outlet being used as a junction to continue a circuit? If it was the latter, then the two sets of wires should have been connected together and a pigtail used to connect the new outlet.
Thanks for the feedback on this.
I love the idea of the keys on the receptacles to speed up alignment in multi gang applications, that’s a welcome feature for sure. It sure beats setting the switches and receptacles going by the screw slots.
Dead center on the screw slots of multiple receptacles, or switches, will usually get you well into the happy zone.
❤ I definitely love this design. I also will be looking to find who sells these. So I may change each and every One in my House as needed.
I have a link in the description box with all the details. They are a game-changer for replacement.
Looks ok but I have one problem with the design. Why is the ground wire on the hot side not on the neutral side like it would be a major failure point in the design
That’s a good observation and question. Why did they move the location of the ground?
Your T&G feature, hand it to the standard DIYer and they will still screw it up. No one reads instructions in the real world. All you do is tighten-up the first outlet or switch, loosely attach the second snug, and hold the cover back-to-front and wiggle the clearance. Pull off the plate and continue to tighten. There is a thing called screw creep, and the fixture may torque/move from the initial set.
You can not centre what you can not see as well.
Plus the metal dog ears are designed to be cut off in situations of retro-fit to flush mount boxes.
These are new construction or old preexisting behind drywall mounted boxes.
You talk about back stabbing outlets as bad, but
there are back stabbing outlets that have screws
on the sides that clamp the wires in the back
stabbed holes. They are the best of both worlds
(easy and good tight positive contact). Doesn't
solve the exposed metal on the sides, though.
Good point. The screws that lock the wires are an improvement and are commonly used in other countries. Thanks for clarifying. I was referring to the old push in ones but having a locking mechanism be it lever or screw is a good feature that makes electrical safer and user friendly.
@@DaruDhillon Thanks for answering. I'm looking
for the new outlets you reviewed. Is there a store
that carries them in the U.S.?
I thought these would be a lot more expensive. Only $2.50 each! Awesome!
I know it's good value considering the time savings in the bulk pack!
Yea, I bought 10 to try it out. It'll be so much easier than wrapping the wires around each screw. I'm replacing all my switches and receptacles so I need something that saves time. @@DaruDhillon
Put a one of these in the attic while hot, carefully took wire nuts off, clipped wire one at atime not to short anything, already placed pigtails in plug then just used wago to wire in the plug.
Great video! Nothing but love for you!
Thanks! Same to you Wolverine!
What do you do when you need to have two wires connected to each terminal so as to continue the circuit to the next outlet?
You can always choose a regular outlet.
Oh, the problems I could have avoided with these!! I will absolutely be using these in my 2025 1950s house re-wire project!
Followed your Amazon link to the 10-pack and added it to the Wish List for my upcoming remodel. Thank You! Liked & Subbed -
How well do they hold onto 12 gauge wiring when your trying to manipulate the receptacle into a 20 cubic inch single gang box !? I’m guessing the contacts are going to be getting stressed to the point of letting go ! I can imagine them working wonderfully on 15 amp circuits however. But there is always going to be the old schoolers who would never “back stab”, and never rely on a “lever connect”. Kind of like many of the old school plumbers just can’t wrap their heads around push connect plumbing fittings. You can’t argue with them though, after being in the trades for 30-40 years…these boys (and some of the older ladies), know what works, AND WHAT DOESN’T !
I think a big thing to address is how to start integrating USB (and USB-C EPR, specifically) into modern wiring. USB-C runs at 5V but up to 48 amps. Most household outlets are still 120V15A (at least in the US), which is simply not enough for certain use cases anymore - especially with the advent of EVs in homes. Ideally I'd like every single circuit in my house to be 240V30A capable, and for each plug IN each receptacle to be 120V20A capable. But then running a 50A capable wire along each 20A wire PER plug is a loooot of hot wires with a lot of insulation. I worry if that's even thermally responsible unless the installation has minimal slack in the wiring to allow them to be as straight as possible.
I’m in any one of about 10 Home Depot’s 3-4 times per week for the last 10 years at least. Those things got put on the discounted end cap of the aisle in no time after they came out. Probably not more than 2 months. They’re constantly sold out of the 20 amp decora receptacle ten packs for a reason. I haven’t tried this new style yet but I’m guessing a lot of other guys haven’t either. I think people like the feeling of twisting the screwdriver and actually feeling the torque when you tighten it. I’m confident of the connection.
I will absolutely use these! Thank you!
Thanks, I’m glad you liked it.
Looks like a great product I would buy it
If you try it, I would love to know what you think!
Oh my god the world is ending. Just look at all the comments by professional electricians. Progress threatens incumbents. Remember when calculators were finally allowed into the classroom?
those receptacles are a really good idea. The only concern I would have is that if you split the outlet you still have a shared neutral. It looks as if the outlet only separates the hot wire.
Why should we care if the neutral wire is not split? You cannot run two circuits to this outlet so total current is limited to 15A.
@@johnpoldo8817 Yes you can. Shall I refer you to the 3:00 minute mark?
Thanks for the Update. I had no idea. New sockets are great.
Love your comments and tips! What do you think about the New Receptacles? Have your say here
I usually just remove the receptacle and solder on alligator clips then I can hook up any type of plug. 😊
You’ve got skills. 👊🏽
@@DaruDhillon ~ …and you look like someone I’d like to get to know…😉
WOW, after about 30 years of the delay American company replicated safety features present in EU for many decades, just WOW!! :)
When straightening the wires: IF you have enough excess wire, CUT those curves off an strip back to what you need for your receptacle/switch. You weaken the wire by bending it back to a straight configuration.
I want all of these in my house! Question for you. I have a bunch of those screw-in boxes that turn a 2 outlet into a 4 with usb ports. they should sit flush to the wall but they have like a quarter inch gap, this makes them wiggle back and forth when you use them - is there a way to set the outlets back a little further so they sit flush?
Yes, for $2 ea. totally worth it!! If they were like $5 each, I'd say no -- the old ones are a slight pain in the ass -- but you do get to be really good with them after installing a few. But yeah for $2 a pop -- yep worth it!! Great video btw!
They didn't have these when I did all my outlets -- but one good choice I made was installing the largest possible electrical boxes they sold -- that was a good one -- oh such a pain if you working in a small box with tons of wires, something that you should maybe cover in another video -- even better than your extender tip.
I use Wagos like everyone else but I’m also old enough to know that some plastics deteriorate and become brittle over time. I’m curious how modern construction will hold up in the next 30+ years.
I think this is great idea as long as it has been engineered better than the old push in back connectors that would always fail (I ended up rewiring every outlet in our last when they just started failing one after another). Also, I would like it if there was an option to buy these without the tamper proof “feature.” When we had the kitchen remodeled in our current house, we couldn’t plug anything into half of them! I just swapped them all out after the inspector left 😊
Thanks for sharing your experience. I’ve heard that some don’t like that feature. I understand it for seniors. Was it a particular brand that wasn’t good? Or in general? Curious.
I’m pretty sure we used Leviton fixtures.
ha. good point. As an adult with no kids, I loathe TR outlets unless it's something that's always plugged in like the coffee maker. Anything that has to get plugged in as I go - a tool, a shop vac - what a pain in the sss.
@@user-hm5zb1qn6g good to hear your opinions on this. Thanks for sharing !
Don't buy tamper resistant outlets, they are dangerous. People push too hard on them to plug into the outlet and cause the outlet to bend until it shorts out. This is an example where a codes don't make logical or practical sense.
Why would you move a live outlet inside a metal box? Why would you move a live outlet ever?
Never work on a live outlet or any live electrical. I don’t.
That’s what you showed in your video.
Geez, electrical outlets have had spring clips for quick wire insertions for over 20 years. The major difference here is you don’t need a tool to release the wire. So what, you don’t remove the wire often.
Most experienced electricians refuse to use the “push-in” holes at rear of duplex outlet because the spring clips have little surface area for connection. Also, if you wiggle the wire enough, it can come out of receptacle. If there was a 12 A space heater plugged into the outlet, I have greater confidence for safety with a looped, screwed down wire connection.
The manufacturer is making them more homeowner safety concern. As journeyman we don't have a problem using metal boxes etc. TR is a consumer friendly product design as well.
Thanks for those points Robert. Very true! I actually prefer metal boxes over plastic because they are incredibly durable and fireproof. More expensive so plastic has good value.
Great video. I am going to use these from now on.
Glad it was helpful! I feel the same way.
Why is ground connection on hot side of the outlet?
They relocated the ground for ease of installation. Is it easier that way? Something to keep in mind when installing.
Seems almost perfect for DIYers, and a time saver for pros. Now when are switches coming into the 21st Century?
I use WAGO. This change is less about safety but about lowering labor costs and more consistent wiring outcomes. I would call Tamper Resistance a far better safety upgrade.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this! I like the TR too.
I think you're so awesome.
Back at you! Thanks Miguel
Would not be worth it to me. Tamper proof standard receptacles have ben mandatory for at least 7 years now and most people only use the screw terminals if they really need to. The push in back wiring is quick and easy and I always tighten the unused terminal screws so there is little chance of contacting the metal box. These are very nice receptacles but I would not pay extra for them. And the screwless box covers are more money too. Not a big deal if you are only replacing a couple of receptacles but price out the difference on a hundred outlets and you see these would be very expensive for a whole house installation.
And just how much do these "upgrades" cost us? Will our homeowners insurance go down? I'm sure that the manufacturer did all this out of the goodness of their hearts. I prefer all plastic outlet boxes and conduit and just connect the ground wires inside it. Eliminate all metal except where nothing else will do.
Did that steel box get swallowed by the wall with wires going through it, or had you pulled it out? I will never know unless you tell me. One still needs a box with these don't they? I would like to see a brand new installation with this new stuff using a box fastened to a stud, which I also believe is required. One never wants dingly dangly stuff but wants everything solid, and straight up. I am a novice who just wants to get it right.
What do you do if you have three wires in the box ? Three black and Three white, plus a ground. Who is the manufacturer?
These look great 👍. Do they also come with usb-c ports? Thanks 😊
Glad you like it! Good idea, they should come out with usb-c. Something to look forward to...
@@DaruDhillon 😊👍
Those type of connections are NOT better than a screw. They fail more often. The contact surface is only a fraction of what a screwed type connection does. If you know anything about electricity surface or section diameter limits the amount of current that will pass before things heat up. They are only used because it is quicker. The electrical contractor won't charge you less because he gets the job done faster. He will put more money in his pocket.
Are these ARC fault compliant? My understanding was that screw down terminals addressed issues with press fit not always making a secure connection.
Expensive… how many times have you had to go into your receptacle to change it?
Maybe once in 50 years…
and ofcourse... they probably cost more even though it probably uses less metal parts
Why is the ground wire exposed/uninsulated???
Oh yes, these are much better and safer.
Thanks for taking the time to share your take!
Does anyone know when will Leviton come out with the "20 Amp "receptacle with levers?
They said they don’t have any plans yet but we’ll see.
Considering most modern appliances require 20 Amp receptacles, at a minimum, I would think Leviton would see the economic benefits of creating one; who uses a 15 Amp receptacle anymore?@@DaruDhillon
Maybe they are going through an expensive & secretive UL testing for the 20 Amp? But if that was the case it would have made economic sense to first certify the more commonly used 20 Amp receptacle@@DaruDhillon
electrocuted means death....line shocks and induction shocks are different