Typically, wouldn't it be better to locate the exterior dryer vent farther away from the AC Condenser Unit? Just thinking about all the extra lint that is usually emitted out of the dryer vent.
wait why cut back into framing? just add 2x or? and screw pipe to that. Seems like that framing was there for a reason 4x4's and 2x4's I've never seen that extended out past foundation and siding but must be there for a reason SO DO NOT CUT
So I see many things wrong why did you cut original pipe so short? then why did you insert other pipe inside first pipe? will catch lint plus why di you cut away framing of house. is that tape exterior grade? No need for 3 inch screws that is lite weight plastic maybe 1 1/2 screws max. sorry Been remodling homes for 15 years and owned rentals for 40 years did a lot of work myself
I installed this type dryer vent in the mid 1990's and it still works great. I periodically remove the top and remove the floating seal cap and clean the lint off the inside parts to ensure the floating cap does not bind against the plastic guides and get stuck. Takes about 5 minutes.and good way to ensure trouble free vent operation. Will definitely buy another if this one ever gives up the ghost.
Great product, i might get one. One word of advice though, at around the 6:00 min mark you put another piece of pipe inside. I think you should remove the newly installed piece inside. The dryer blows out lint and will be caught in between the two pipes and will build up over time. Kind of the same reasoning behind why dryer vents should not have screws connecting them (building code).
Ok, but what is your solution to his problem of not enough stick out of the original pipe? Commenting on a problem without a suggested solution is not very helpful.
I was a major appliance repair tech for 23 years. Anything that creates turbulence is bad for dryer vents. Had to clean these out when they were fully plugged. A basic aluminum vent cap with the flapper works best.
I’m not too sure about the design of the vent but….. you’re right about the oscillating tool. Another use for it is if you are installing new flooring it makes. “ tucking “the Lino, vinyl, laminate or hardwood under the moulding in the doorways easier and without gaps or having to remove the old doorway moulding ( pulling the bottom moulding off the wall at floor level is easier than using an oscillating tool though.
We have had one of these vent hoods since the 1990's. Did it because we needed it to shut the vent securely to prevent cold air coming in. Best vent hood ever! REMEMBER TO CLEAN IT PERIODICALLY!
My mom installed one at the house I grew up in sometime around the late 80's. Great vent. It was still on the house in good working condition when we sold it in 2019.
My mom did the exact same thing in the 80s. Her vent is much higher off the ground, which is also good because of the amount of snow they get in the Midwest. It does a much better job sealing off the cold outside air.
Around 1990 I worked at a place that distributed these. We installed one on the second floor of the farm house. Every couple months I got a ladder and cleaned lint out of it.
Installed on on a home we purchased in 2019 after realizing that rain pouring off the roof was entering the vent pipe! Never looked back. Best design available, no cold air getting into the dryer anymore.
Something I think you neglected to talk about and is probably why the original was done with that burried tube. That is lint can get pilled into the A/C condenser and block the heat transfer surfaces reducing its efficiency and making it eork harder. Your solution while good will allow lint to get pulled into the condenser. That is a serious mistake having the dryer vent and the A/C condenser that close together.
Huge mistake. Gonna cost them in a service call. Then pay the hvac tech to redo the dryer right. People don't realize the V in hvac stands for ventilation 😂. Use an hvac tech for your dryer vent and you won't have silly mistakes. -hvac tech😂
@@NoflectioN HVAC "ventilation" refers to inside the house, when the fan is on manual with neither heating or cooling action, not ventilating the outside condenser.
I have used this type of vent for many years. It seals well, has very good airflow for the dryer exhaust, and eliminates the issues with the old "flapper" vent. It does need to be cleaned occasionally -- I usually do it once a year or so. Simply lift the cover remove the floating cap, and vacuum stray lint. I did have to replace mine once over the years due to deterioration of the plastic making it brittle and subject to cracking. Not sure if a quick coat of paint would resolve that or not. Anyway -- highly recommended!
With the larger profile, it seems it could be damaged by wind. The vent I want to replace is on the side of my house about 15 ft off the ground and with my neighbor's house so close, it creates a bit of a wind tunnel. I think it would solve some of my current issues, but I suspect the wind issue would be worse. Any suggestions? Biggest current issue is birds lifting the flap and building nests in the vent.
@@davidmcdaniel3693 - Plygem makes a vent that is louvered so the parts that flip open leave a smaller opening, AND it has a sort of screen that is intended to keep out critters (insects could still get in because a screen fine enough to keep them out will catch all the lint).
2 issues I recognize immediately with your location. 1 these do require cleaning out. Pulling lid off, and actually pulling lint out by hand. At ground level, not a problem. 2 the sun/ozone does age this plastic, and at least the lid needs replacing every couple of years. Just something to keep in mind. And to be transparent, I'm no expert with these, I've just had a couple for many years.
Thank you for this video! As a middle class homeowner with no financial breaks videos like this are so incredibly helpful! It's also always so interesting to read comments from others who have cool feedback but don't have any DIY videos that they have contributed.... I guess it's easier to comment on someone else's videos. Thank you again!
We installed one of these vents last summer. It's made a huge difference in the amount of heat/humidity getting trapped in our laundry room in the summer and blocking tons of the cold in the winter. They're also paintable, so if you don't want this white thing hanging off your house, it can blend in super well. So much easier to clean, too! Definitely recommended on our end.
We painted ours the same color as our brick. Behind the shrubs you'd never know it was there. It also saved energy and kept the laundry comfortable. It made a big difference.
I have had this vent type for 20 years.. bought it at Menards. It has worked great! Once a year i take the top off and clean any vent debris that has collected from moisture. Highly recommend.. buying another one for my new retirement house.
Bought a ventless dryer (LG) off Facebook last year, $200. Great dryer, no hole in the wall needed, no added negative pressure sucking in air from outside. I empty the water into a nearby sink, but it can be easily plumbed instead. And it still has a traditional lint filter. There is one more thing, about every 6 months to slide out the exchanger and knock any lint off. Wouldn't trade any of that for the hassles of dealing with an external vent exhaust again.
This is a Chesterton's fence situation. You should not destroy what exists until you know why it is like that in the first place. Otherwise, by "fixing" something you end up making something else worse as an unintended consequence. People, generally, don't go through the effort to build something for no reason.
While the intention of extending the vent was correct, using flex tube was incorrect. You will need to go to a HVAC supply store for the rigid ventilation tubing to do this right. Either the dryer was added after the AC install or vice versa, but if you don't extend the dryer duct, you'll shorten the life of your condenser(AC). Another bonus is to use a dryer vent brush and vacuum at the lint trap with extended reach crevice tool, and while the dryer is running to catch the lint stuck to the inner walls of the duct while using the vent brush. For this reason alone straight duct is the better way to go over flex/ridge. On a final note, the use of fabric softener will cause a film to developed on the lint trap screen, as well as the duct. After vacuuming excess lint from the trap, test how much film from fabric softener is on the screen by running water slowly on to the screen. You will see it puddle up or not go through the screen. Now use a little dish soap and a toothbrush and clean the screen and re-test and you'll see the difference! This will improve the dryers ability to vent better... A better alternative to fabric softener is a 3-4 wool dryer balls "woolies" bouncing around will remove static and help dry clothes, while softening clothes naturally... Replace as needed, when clothes aren't as soft...
@@chuckhoyle1211 Mmm hmm. Was thinking the same thing. The cutting of the wood was a destructive action and it can never be undone. Maybe you're even making the house less structurally sound. 😬 He should've thought about whether there was a less destructive way of going about things before tearing the place apart. Could the dryer vent tube simply be extended out further to avoid having to cut the wood? You'll need a flat surface to mount this specific dryer vent so you might need to add a piece of plywood or something with a hole for the vent tube to pass through. 🤔
Nothing about this is good. The dryer vent being that close to the AC unit, wrong. The dryer vent that close to the ground, wrong. Aluminum flex pipe, for that matter aluminum pipe, wrong. The wood in contact with soil, wrong. He never sealed around the pipe where it penetrates the wall, also wrong. The pipe that goes into the plastic vent is not sealed so it’s also wrong. And where it the hell is it OK to use flexible gas line to connect from the meter to the house? To say nothing about this design of the vent cap. It will increase back pressure and turbulence inside the dryer vent so it too is wrong. Nothing about this video is good.
Thanks for this. Some folks here say they've installed these as far back as the '80s; but I hadn't been aware of these until watching this video. A breeze to replace the old vent and the new one is much better. Thank you!
The attempts with the burried duct and later with the side directed vent were to avoid lint from the dryer exhaust getting sucked into the AC unit and clogging the fins. It’s a real problem. Ask me how I know. When the AC compressor is running, it is sucking all available air in, with the lint. That’s the larger problem. Nice improvement with the vent, itself. You’re going to be pulling the case off that AC once or twice a season to clean out the fins unless you redirect that dryer vent.
@@chipcook6646 - it has nothing to do with running them at the same time, except that will worsen things since the AC compressor will be sucking air through the fins. The lint will still attach to the AC compressor even when the AC is off.
@@Resist4 If you look at earlier images, I don't think he cut off anything, looks like he removed the existing sleeve and replaced it. Still an issue, but he was dealing with what was there already.
I've had that style dryer vent installed for many years now. You have to clean it out a couple extra times during the winter due to it getting clogged easier because of the condensation trapping the lint and sticking inside. If find your dryer isn't drying as fast as it used to then that vent is clogged up and needs cleaning out. My vent line is very short so it blows my floating cap right out if I open it while the dryer is running.
I vent my dryer inside in the winter. I don't lose conditioned air through the dryer to outside that way AND I get 2 bonuses - 1 heat is not wasted when venting inside and 2 we get the extra humidity as well. One typical electric dryer puts out nearly 20,000 btu's of heat. That is like running 4 electric space heaters. Note: you cannot do this with a non electric dryer due to carbon monoxide issues. BUT you can install an intake tube from outside to the dryer itself to save your conditioned air.
@@markd5067 Is it warmer hotter or cooler in the Humid July? So long as you don't have water condensing on your walls, you should be OK. Normal humidity range is between 40% and 60%. If it feels too musty/sticky, switch to outside discharge for 30 min or so and open a window or door. Typical dryer will pump out up to 400cfm's of the air in your house to the outside. That is a 20 x 20 x 10 foot ceiling room worth of air every MINUTE. Two rooms worth for feeble dryers. How long to pump out a house full of air? 1200 sq ft house with 8 foot ceilings are typical for many places. So that is about 9600 cubic feet of air. So you need to run it about 24 min or so to remove any high humidity. Less dryer cfm's then you run the dryer longer (with clothes in it of course, vented outside). If you have an older home that is not air tight like newer ones, you are already drawing in dry winter air into your home. If you home is really old and has wood paneling, you NEED that extra humidity (ask wood stove users about paneling and dryness). You can run a dehumidifier to control humidity. That would be cheaper than paying to reheat your home every 30 minutes. If you have kids running in and out constantly, that too replenishes the house with dry air. One reason for dryer fires is that people's homes are too air tight. Dryer cannot breathe very well and the slow air flow through the vent deposits a buildup of lint. That and not keeping the lint screen clean of course. I did this method: ua-cam.com/video/rYsT0rvZqyM/v-deo.html&pp=ygUSZHJ5ZXIgdG8gaGVhdCBob21l ua-cam.com/video/8A9R7gsuNlE/v-deo.html&pp=ygUSZHJ5ZXIgdG8gaGVhdCBob21l I wanted to do this but unable to because of dryer location: ua-cam.com/video/1t6576tPDVg/v-deo.html DO NOT VENT INSIDE for gas dryers due to carbon monoxide.
@@markd5067 Was wondering if you had a humidifier on your furnace. And what do you have it set at? Any idea how much water it takes to run a humidifier? I disconnected my dryer vent to the outside and plugged the hole. Took the vent tube and ran it into the top of a 5 gal bucket, 1/2 filled with water and a little dish soap. Top lid has about 15 1" holes in it to allow easy air to escape. When dryer runs, it blows the air onto the water catching lint that wasn't trapped, warming the water and adding humidity to the air. I would have preferred to run that vent tube into another room but the house setup won't let me so natural air circulation has to do it. It does work pretty well though. The setup is entirely reversible. I have to switch from the bucket to the outside in late spring. If I could con the wifey, I might make a fresh air intake for the dryer for summer use but that entails making a big hole and running more pipe. Think how a high efficiency furnace piping works.
Interesting product and I think it was the best choice for you! Thanks for the video. I would have put the extension piece over top instead of inside, it will be a collection point for lint as well as a bit of a reduction in air flow.
@@jimmiller6704 you can get extenders with one end big enough to fit the original vent pipe, the other end is the same diameter as the original vent pipe. It's a standard connector, similar to the ones you can get for copper or various plastic pipes.
NOPE! You put the aluminum insert into the pipe on the outflow end, so now there is a sharp edge INSIDE the vent pipe that will catch lint until it plugs up! Danger of fire. And the efficient of the dryer will be reduced.
By that logic the backside of a plane wing would catch debris and be full every time it passes the ocean. A cars exhaust would be full of smoke particles and clogged after say a year. Plus; if lint would catch on that edge it would catch on every fault in that vent pipe.
@@noeraldinkabam Your plane and car analogies make no sense. And yes, if you inspect any dryer exhaust, you will see the that lint DOES catch on each and EVERY defect in the pipe.
He literally created a 6” section of wall that all the rain running down will go into his wall rather than stay outside as designed. I would have cut the cheap plastic part before I cut into the outer barrier of my house.
Thanks for the video. Got tired of cold air coming in at the dryer and also at bathroom exhaust fan vents from the other types during windy days. This product solved the problem. As per instructions, you have a limit on how many 90 degree turns in your dryer vent system are allowed as too much back pressure will limit performance.
I have tried a lot of dryer vents in my 69 years on this planet and none of them lasted very long and all had similar flaws...mainly just being cheaply made from thin, usually galvanized, tin material. I ended up paying $30 for one on Amazon made from stainless steel and it was well worth it. Bear in mind I just have a basic setup with a hole thru a piece of 1/2" plywood where a basement window was removed. I think that is one of the most common so just thought I would mention it. Stop buying the cheap ones from Home Depot and spend the extra money. It's worth it in the long haul. The one you showed would not fit my application but it does look like a great option too. Oh and good point on the multi-tool. I have one on my list to get next !!
I installed that type a few years ago and it is great. My only concern is that sunlight exposure seems to make it brittle eventually. Definitely be careful cleaning it in extreme cold weather as the plastic will break if you are not gentle.
I have been doing home repairs for many years first time watching your show I believe you should have seal the surrounding areas before installing the new Dryer Vent also by placing an additional vent extension tube inside, the dryer vent tube you have created a place for the lint to accumulate and eventually create a blockage
i have 2 of those in my house installed first the plastic ones which lasted only 2 year because heat makes it so fragile then upgraded to the metal ones. They are great product specially the stainless steel one. This past winter when temperatures were low something i noticed as you can see the steam traveling path in colder weather much clearer the issue was is if your soffit AREA HAS VENTS AND THEY ARE 6 to 10 feet above the vent it just suck all the steam and condensation into your attic. That is a perfect recipe to cause mold in your attic
I have one and it works great. Did have to replace the cap after about 9 years (UV damage caused it to crack). Probably should have painted it. Mine was a slightly different design where the cap fit on (like a yogurt container). I like the hinged version you have better.
Interesting design. It actually makes sense if used properly. I agree with a few comments about the installation. The previous install with the tube running under the dirt is away from the AC unit. Lint from the vent can mess up the AC. Another problem you might run into will be a clogged vent pipe. You put a raw edge of the extender inside the pipe. It give lint to collect and clog that defeats the exhaust flow. Also, a huge fire Hazzard.
And allowing rain to go directly off of the siding into the inside of the foundation, instead of having a sill to direct it away. Not recommended. It should have been sticking out another 4" to 6"
Installed similar product about six months ago and while they are pricey for a bit of plastic, THEY WORK GREAT, my dryer was alway cold and the floor area around it with the shitty flapper style. Now the dryer and area are always at room temperature. I will never go back.
I'd like to see follow ups of things you did. Like a year from now, how is this vent cover holding out? Was there a lint trapping problem, etc. Your videos are excellent!
I installed one of these on our house in 1996. Still works great. It does need to have the lint cleaned out regularly. Also, the outside of it should be painted for UV protection.
I have one but looking at the material of the vent cover decided to paint it since the plastic used can yellow and become brittle if not painted. It was easy to paint to match the house on the outside and didn’t affect any bit of the performance while greatly increasing the UV protection.
You can paint those also a matching color to the house. That dryer discharge probabaly needs cleaned out as that cup on mine flies out if the lid isn't down. That cup you were showing was barely lifting off. Love that dryer vent though big help in keeping outside air out.
I liked the product, this would help energy efficiency. Put the extension on the outside of the dryer tube, same reason as others commented. Always force air out, to dislodge any built up lint. I use my leaf blower to blow out my dryer vent, an architect friend’s trick. 👍
Nice job and great video! I do think the tube within a tube adapter is going to gather a lot of lint. I would plan to check it in a few months to make sure it's not building up.
I installed one of these a few months ago and it was a lot more complicated than this. I had a lot more overhang of the siding than this so I had to build up a wood frame around the vent hole to get it to line up. Then, the siding had a lot of angle to it so I had to make a wedge to hold the upper section. Also, my dryer blows with much more force which pushed the cap up against the lid. Problem is that the "latch" that's supposed to hold the lid in place doesn't work. I had to glue a weight to the lid to keep the air flow from blowing it open and pushing the cap out and onto the ground. This product needs 2 things: 1: a better latch and 2: an adjustable bracket on the top.
I'm curious if you saw much in the way of cold temps this winter and if you checked the thing when it was really cold out. My gut tells me that the way this is designed, it's going to be super prone to freezing itself shut in subzero temps.
Looks pretty good. My old-style dryer vent eventually gets lint buildup and jams the flapper from closing, I have to clean out the lint every 2-3 years. Nice thing about this is it isn't super expensive. So many of these "this version is better" videos the "new version" is quite expensive.
I read the negative comments on the dryer vent cover and there were quite a few that mentioned that the cap did not stay closed and the disk would pop out of the assembly. Even without the cap coming open, some said the disk would flip over, thus eliminating any protection from backdrafts. Some additionally said the disk would get jammed in the channel and not open up fully, which could constitute a fire hazard from an overheating dryer. It seems like a neat idea, and perhaps has potential, but improvements are apparently needed before it is ready for prime time, especially at its price point.
I’ve watched your channel for quite some time. I really enjoy the different projects and things that you’ve done. I also would like to say how very sorry I am for your loss. I lost my mother to kidney failure, so I know what you went through with that. The old saying time heals all wounds is very true. Both my mother and father have been gone for sometime now. But I think of them often and I miss him very much, but you carry on. As you said, we will see each other someday again. He’s a piece of our Lord be with you and your family. Sincerely, Ken
That area you cut away needs some flashing or something to protect it from rain intrusion. Water flowing in there can cause rot wood, erode the soil and even create foundation issues.
I'm going to try out this product. The one I have has 5 louvers that open when the dryer is working that tend to collect hair and lint over time requiring monthly cleaning, even with the dryer machine screen. This product seems like it will be easier to keep clean and lint and hair free.
The product is great I have used. For years VERY noticeable temperature difference in the winter from reduced air infiltration . but your dryer air flow is still low check the whole discharge system.
Good video, i like the vent design. I would have found some way to route the tube farther away from the AC condenser unit because lint can become a problem for it. And always try to keep tube joints connected in such a way as to be very smooth inside.
Another option is to get a heat pump high quality dryer and eliminate the exhaust vent all together. Plus, we'll save on your heating and cooling bills by not exchanging the inside air with the dryer pulled in outside air.
You can also get a kit that lets you filter the hot air from your dryer and vent inside your home. I do this in the winter because why waste all that heat and humidity during the cold dry months.
I think you could pick one up at a big box hardware store or Amazon. I dont know if you can safely do this with gas dryer tho. I just put a panyhose over the pipe myself.@@TheTruthSeeker756
Interesting dryer vent. It seems like it will make cleaning the duct very difficult to clean as it doesn't look like the brush will make it through the tight bend.
@@zanna9857 @stevebabiak6997 I wholeheartedly disagree. The buried dryer vent shows signs of corrosion and imminent failure. This is totally something a "joe jobber" would have left for the next person, have you ever even worked in residential maintenance? Why all the hate for this channel, did your girlfriend step out on you or something?
@@jeremiahbullfrog9288 - you think it’s bad to dislike bad information? Really?!?! Like watch that whole video, and just count how many mistakes this stooge makes. Any home inspector would tear this work to pieces.
I watch every single one of your videos, even if it's something I initially don't think I'll be interested in. They're always interesting and I always wind up learning something. Thanks for being such a good teacher. Cheers!
Brother!!! Thank you so much for this video!!!! I keep getting small birds coming into the vent and setting up home! I have to go in and clean it out, then I try to put several metal wires to block their entrance but it's not full-proof. This is awesome! Thank you!
Looks great, I'm gonna get one right away. Last winter -10 degrees we had a strong wind out of the north, blowing straight into our dryer vent. I opened the dryer door and it was like a freezer inside. This vent would definitely prevent that. Thank you!
I really like this "dryer vent" upgrade and think that it will be very helpful to my client's! My question: does the dryer vent dust and lent "fall out of the bottom " of the upper-vent part? Well done, Sir!
Only thing missing is painting/sealing the now raw edges of the wood you just cut. The siding and trim is painted or stained for a reason. If you want to prevent future rotting around the vent, this is a quick but important step.
Thank you, this solves one of my problems with a slab on grade apartment build regarding the dryer venting to the front of the apartment. This product will allow it to be installed low and unobtrusive,,,nice!
An alternative to cutting your weather protection layer away is to block out under it from the face of the building with a pressure treated board or something less damaged by moisture like painted metal. You'd have to extend the pipe a bit, but it might be worth the effort in the long run.
Love your videos. Just have a few potential issues I see. 1. Lint building up since it’s in a vertical position. 2. The inner piece of vent you added catching lint. Maybe tape the seam on the inner vent tube. 3. critters being able to crawl in from underneath.
Thees are a great product. Not really new, as my dad has had one on his house for at least a decade. I cleaned his dryer vent system a few months back and this thing was in great shape, with only a little bit of lint stuck in a few spots. I plan to install one at my house this summer.
I think it'll make people use more electricity because its restricting the air flow because it has to lift the piece of plastic up While using a square vent uses a square or circle flap to let the heat out and they're both lightweight to open up by air flow nothing gets restricted because the square or circle flap opens up front wards instead of topways. That new one could help burn out your dryer heating element in the dryer or just make you dry the clothes twice
Excellent video. I would also use some silicone to cover the rough metal edges inside that device, make it a smooth transition, so the lint does not get caught on it, and eventually clog it. Those rubber things do save your "kock"
I would think that this will correct the position of a vent that is too close to the ground. Nice idea, too. Saves on cleaning the collecting lint on the shutter pieces.
Good device for certain applications. That wouldn't work at my house because I have a gate to the back porch that sits close to the dryer vent but currently have a 3 louvered vent. I also wouldn't use that long of screws unless you know what is on the other side of that wall. 1/2in would be plenty.
Thank you for this informative video . My dryer vent is next to my AC compressors causing lint to get stuck In them . Will this keep the lint debris contained in the cylinder?
I bought one of these about a decade ago. It seems like such a good idea, however it clogged up all the time. I eventually changed it out for a more traditional one. In your case, the vent is too close to the ground. So in your case, maybe your new option is good. I'de move the vent up higher.
great video! Not a good idea to insert an extension into the existing dryer vent. I will catch the lint and clog. If you are going to use an extension it should be installed around the exterior of the existing pipe.
GREAT VIDEO! i never knew what that was on the side of my home and wow! was I glad i saw this! we have/had 4 pets and who knows how often the last owners looked at it, it was packed full of pet hair. glad i got it cleaned out and, hopefully, safer for my family!
The reason the older vent was piped under the dirt was to discharge away from the a/c condenser. Dryer lent will clog the coil,making the condenser work harder and possible damage to the compressor..
Go with the new heat pump dryers they are 50% more efficient which will cost you less money in the long run. I believe LG has a very nice one.. and you can put them anywhere they do not need to be vented to the outside..
I guess with it so low to the ground, you'd really have to pay attention in the event of snow so that it's not covered with snow preventing the vent from working. Cool design though and definitely better than former versions.
I'll give you that it looks much better, but depending on where you live you likely just caused yourself problems. First the tube that you stuck inside, that is going to cause lint to build up and plug the vent MUCH faster. If you live someplace wet you likely just caused a water intrusion problem, that lip that you cut out and the structure behind it were all there to prevent water from getting in. No amount of caulking will seal that up long-term. (your PO box address appears to be WA, so I would suspect this to be your first problem). Second, the gaps you left on the sides will allow critters to get inside. Bugs, rodents, and then snakes... Again, it's very unlikely you'll be able to seal that up with calk or anything similar. I don't know what your situation inside is, but your best bet is to try to move the vent to a more appropriate place and to rebuild the sill plate (the support structure inside), the sill at the bottom of the siding and any other structure. The second best way is to again rebuild most of that and only leave/make a hole big enough for the duct to run through and build up a mount that will allow you to install the vent cover flat.
Do you have any info or experience on how it performs in the winter when snow covers the top? Is the floating cap affected or get stuck with humidity after it freezes?
The entire purpose of running the extended flex hose to the side of the planter was to keep dryer lint out of the A/C condenser. You’ve just made things far worse for your air conditioner. What you should have done is move the dryer duct inside the house so it exits in a different location. You’ve simply traded one problem for another.
Nice video. My concern is wasp and dirt dabbers using it as a new home. I know the vent piping into the house is good but above the floating cap might be an issue.
Interesting piece of gear. I’ve had several of the old style vents in the past and they mostly break down after a few years. The bottom screen used to block critters breaks down and falls apart. This appears to be more robust and a simpler operation.
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How did that opening ever pass code? Asking for mice...
Typically, wouldn't it be better to locate the exterior dryer vent farther away from the AC Condenser Unit?
Just thinking about all the extra lint that is usually emitted out of the dryer vent.
wait why cut back into framing? just add 2x or? and screw pipe to that. Seems like that framing was there for a reason 4x4's and 2x4's I've never seen that extended out past foundation and siding but must be there for a reason SO DO NOT CUT
So I see many things wrong why did you cut original pipe so short? then why did you insert other pipe inside first pipe? will catch lint plus why di you cut away framing of house. is that tape exterior grade? No need for 3 inch screws that is lite weight plastic maybe 1 1/2 screws max. sorry Been remodling homes for 15 years and owned rentals for 40 years did a lot of work myself
Really nice design, however, my concern would be the color since exposure to sunlight would damage it before long.
I installed this type dryer vent in the mid 1990's and it still works great. I periodically remove the top and remove the floating seal cap and clean the lint off the inside parts to ensure the floating cap does not bind against the plastic guides and get stuck. Takes about 5 minutes.and good way to ensure trouble free vent operation. Will definitely buy another if this one ever gives up the ghost.
Great product, i might get one. One word of advice though, at around the 6:00 min mark you put another piece of pipe inside. I think you should remove the newly installed piece inside. The dryer blows out lint and will be caught in between the two pipes and will build up over time. Kind of the same reasoning behind why dryer vents should not have screws connecting them (building code).
One of the fisrt things I saw...thanks for saving me time in typing it all out! ;)
Ok, but what is your solution to his problem of not enough stick out of the original pipe? Commenting on a problem without a suggested solution is not very helpful.
@@johnirwin1837 He trimmed too much of the original vent pipe 4:50, the reason for the extension pipe.
My concern is that lint will eventually catch on the bottom side of the pop up device and clog the vent.
@@dmacarthur5356This looks easier to clean out than a flapper close to the ground has been for me.
I was a major appliance repair tech for 23 years. Anything that creates turbulence is bad for dryer vents. Had to clean these out when they were fully plugged. A basic aluminum vent cap with the flapper works best.
I was wondering how the lint that escapes dissipates. I see a huge design flaw.
I’m not too sure about the design of the vent but….. you’re right about the oscillating tool. Another use for it is if you are installing new flooring it makes. “ tucking “the Lino, vinyl, laminate or hardwood under the moulding in the doorways easier and without gaps or having to remove the old doorway moulding ( pulling the bottom moulding off the wall at floor level is easier than using an oscillating tool though.
Sure turbulence is bad, but your flapper is like a VIP entrance for rodents.
We have had one of these vent hoods since the 1990's. Did it because we needed it to shut the vent securely to prevent cold air coming in. Best vent hood ever! REMEMBER TO CLEAN IT PERIODICALLY!
same having it back in the 90's. need to take cap off to get lint in it out.
My mom installed one at the house I grew up in sometime around the late 80's. Great vent. It was still on the house in good working condition when we sold it in 2019.
My mom did the exact same thing in the 80s. Her vent is much higher off the ground, which is also good because of the amount of snow they get in the Midwest. It does a much better job sealing off the cold outside air.
Around 1990 I worked at a place that distributed these. We installed one on the second floor of the farm house. Every couple months I got a ladder and cleaned lint out of it.
Yep, I installed one in my home in the mid-90's as well.
Installed on on a home we purchased in 2019 after realizing that rain pouring off the roof was entering the vent pipe! Never looked back. Best design available, no cold air getting into the dryer anymore.
Something I think you neglected to talk about and is probably why the original was done with that burried tube. That is lint can get pilled into the A/C condenser and block the heat transfer surfaces reducing its efficiency and making it eork harder. Your solution while good will allow lint to get pulled into the condenser.
That is a serious mistake having the dryer vent and the A/C condenser that close together.
Agreed. The lint is the real problem since it is hard to get out of the A/C coils.
First thing I thought of seeing the A/C that close. I like the vent but the lint will definitely be a problem for the condenser.
Huge mistake. Gonna cost them in a service call. Then pay the hvac tech to redo the dryer right. People don't realize the V in hvac stands for ventilation 😂. Use an hvac tech for your dryer vent and you won't have silly mistakes.
-hvac tech😂
I have the same thing on my house, have to hose off condenser every month!
@@NoflectioN HVAC "ventilation" refers to inside the house, when the fan is on manual with neither heating or cooling action, not ventilating the outside condenser.
I have used this type of vent for many years. It seals well, has very good airflow for the dryer exhaust, and eliminates the issues with the old "flapper" vent. It does need to be cleaned occasionally -- I usually do it once a year or so. Simply lift the cover remove the floating cap, and vacuum stray lint. I did have to replace mine once over the years due to deterioration of the plastic making it brittle and subject to cracking. Not sure if a quick coat of paint would resolve that or not. Anyway -- highly recommended!
Been in area since at least the late 80's
With the larger profile, it seems it could be damaged by wind. The vent I want to replace is on the side of my house about 15 ft off the ground and with my neighbor's house so close, it creates a bit of a wind tunnel. I think it would solve some of my current issues, but I suspect the wind issue would be worse. Any suggestions? Biggest current issue is birds lifting the flap and building nests in the vent.
Same here. Maybe late 80's. Pre-internet, back when you got those catalogs in the mail that had thousands of various products.@@brucewhitefoot
@@davidmcdaniel3693 - Plygem makes a vent that is louvered so the parts that flip open leave a smaller opening, AND it has a sort of screen that is intended to keep out critters (insects could still get in because a screen fine enough to keep them out will catch all the lint).
2 issues I recognize immediately with your location. 1 these do require cleaning out. Pulling lid off, and actually pulling lint out by hand. At ground level, not a problem. 2 the sun/ozone does age this plastic, and at least the lid needs replacing every couple of years. Just something to keep in mind. And to be transparent, I'm no expert with these, I've just had a couple for many years.
Thank you for this video! As a middle class homeowner with no financial breaks videos like this are so incredibly helpful! It's also always so interesting to read comments from others who have cool feedback but don't have any DIY videos that they have contributed.... I guess it's easier to comment on someone else's videos. Thank you again!
We installed one of these vents last summer. It's made a huge difference in the amount of heat/humidity getting trapped in our laundry room in the summer and blocking tons of the cold in the winter. They're also paintable, so if you don't want this white thing hanging off your house, it can blend in super well. So much easier to clean, too! Definitely recommended on our end.
Thank you so much for sharing! 🙏🏽😊
We painted ours the same color as our brick. Behind the shrubs you'd never know it was there. It also saved energy and kept the laundry comfortable. It made a big difference.
I have had this vent type for 20 years.. bought it at Menards. It has worked great! Once a year i take the top off and clean any vent debris that has collected from moisture. Highly recommend.. buying another one for my new retirement house.
They work perfectly and have for 50 years. But 𝑑𝑜𝑛'𝑡 𝑖𝑛𝑠𝑡𝑎𝑙𝑙 𝑡ℎ𝑒𝑚 𝑠𝑖𝑑𝑒𝑤𝑎𝑦𝑠.
oscillating tool--the best tool I bought that I never knew I needed until I bought it.
I resisted for years but yes
Yes, I didn't even know about this but immediately was intrigued when he used it...and I was so glad he stopped to mention it.
Bought a ventless dryer (LG) off Facebook last year, $200. Great dryer, no hole in the wall needed, no added negative pressure sucking in air from outside.
I empty the water into a nearby sink, but it can be easily plumbed instead. And it still has a traditional lint filter. There is one more thing, about every 6 months to slide out the exchanger and knock any lint off. Wouldn't trade any of that for the hassles of dealing with an external vent exhaust again.
That flexible vent outdoors was likely installed to get the dryer exhaust away from that AC. I've seen dryer lint clog AC condensers.
This is a Chesterton's fence situation. You should not destroy what exists until you know why it is like that in the first place. Otherwise, by "fixing" something you end up making something else worse as an unintended consequence. People, generally, don't go through the effort to build something for no reason.
While the intention of extending the vent was correct, using flex tube was incorrect. You will need to go to a HVAC supply store for the rigid ventilation tubing to do this right.
Either the dryer was added after the AC install or vice versa, but if you don't extend the dryer duct, you'll shorten the life of your condenser(AC).
Another bonus is to use a dryer vent brush and vacuum at the lint trap with extended reach crevice tool, and while the dryer is running to catch the lint stuck to the inner walls of the duct while using the vent brush. For this reason alone straight duct is the better way to go over flex/ridge.
On a final note, the use of fabric softener will cause a film to developed on the lint trap screen, as well as the duct. After vacuuming excess lint from the trap, test how much film from fabric softener is on the screen by running water slowly on to the screen. You will see it puddle up or not go through the screen. Now use a little dish soap and a toothbrush and clean the screen and re-test and you'll see the difference! This will improve the dryers ability to vent better... A better alternative to fabric softener is a 3-4 wool dryer balls "woolies" bouncing around will remove static and help dry clothes, while softening clothes naturally... Replace as needed, when clothes aren't as soft...
@@chuckhoyle1211 Mmm hmm. Was thinking the same thing. The cutting of the wood was a destructive action and it can never be undone. Maybe you're even making the house less structurally sound. 😬
He should've thought about whether there was a less destructive way of going about things before tearing the place apart. Could the dryer vent tube simply be extended out further to avoid having to cut the wood? You'll need a flat surface to mount this specific dryer vent so you might need to add a piece of plywood or something with a hole for the vent tube to pass through. 🤔
Nothing about this is good. The dryer vent being that close to the AC unit, wrong. The dryer vent that close to the ground, wrong. Aluminum flex pipe, for that matter aluminum pipe, wrong. The wood in contact with soil, wrong. He never sealed around the pipe where it penetrates the wall, also wrong. The pipe that goes into the plastic vent is not sealed so it’s also wrong. And where it the hell is it OK to use flexible gas line to connect from the meter to the house? To say nothing about this design of the vent cap. It will increase back pressure and turbulence inside the dryer vent so it too is wrong. Nothing about this video is good.
Thanks for this. Some folks here say they've installed these as far back as the '80s; but I hadn't been aware of these until watching this video. A breeze to replace the old vent and the new one is much better. Thank you!
I’m glad I could be of help! For me it’s 2024 version 😉👍🏽🙏🏽
The attempts with the burried duct and later with the side directed vent were to avoid lint from the dryer exhaust getting sucked into the AC unit and clogging the fins. It’s a real problem. Ask me how I know. When the AC compressor is running, it is sucking all available air in, with the lint. That’s the larger problem. Nice improvement with the vent, itself. You’re going to be pulling the case off that AC once or twice a season to clean out the fins unless you redirect that dryer vent.
I agree. Been there...done that.
I immediately thought of that after I saw that.
Correct
Do not run both at the same time
@@chipcook6646 - it has nothing to do with running them at the same time, except that will worsen things since the AC compressor will be sucking air through the fins.
The lint will still attach to the AC compressor even when the AC is off.
@@stevebabiak6997 😵
I bought one just like that from our True Value Hardware store 20 years ago. It still works great.
Even though it will clog up in a week because of the sleeve that he slid in, the caulk condom is a great invention.
Yep, he cut off too much of the vent and then needed the sleeve to reach out farther, huge mistake.
Yep nice catch.
@@Resist4 If you look at earlier images, I don't think he cut off anything, looks like he removed the existing sleeve and replaced it. Still an issue, but he was dealing with what was there already.
@@JonathanMurray Ah okay I see that now, thanks for clearing that up.
Should have put the extension around the outside of the original ducting. yeah, gonna catch all the lint.
I’ve had this product on my dryer vent for over 20 years. It works perfectly every time. Have had zero issues with it.
Thank you for sharing my friend! 👍🏽😊
I've had that style dryer vent installed for many years now. You have to clean it out a couple extra times during the winter due to it getting clogged easier because of the condensation trapping the lint and sticking inside. If find your dryer isn't drying as fast as it used to then that vent is clogged up and needs cleaning out. My vent line is very short so it blows my floating cap right out if I open it while the dryer is running.
I vent my dryer inside in the winter. I don't lose conditioned air through the dryer to outside that way AND I get 2 bonuses - 1 heat is not wasted when venting inside and 2 we get the extra humidity as well.
One typical electric dryer puts out nearly 20,000 btu's of heat. That is like running 4 electric space heaters.
Note: you cannot do this with a non electric dryer due to carbon monoxide issues.
BUT you can install an intake tube from outside to the dryer itself to save your conditioned air.
Too much moisture equals mold inside. Be careful.@@crazysquirrel9425
@@crazysquirrel9425I thought about doing this but was worried about high humidity. Is that a concern? Also, how did you configure it? TIA
@@markd5067 Is it warmer hotter or cooler in the Humid July?
So long as you don't have water condensing on your walls, you should be OK. Normal humidity range is between 40% and 60%.
If it feels too musty/sticky, switch to outside discharge for 30 min or so and open a window or door.
Typical dryer will pump out up to 400cfm's of the air in your house to the outside.
That is a 20 x 20 x 10 foot ceiling room worth of air every MINUTE. Two rooms worth for feeble dryers.
How long to pump out a house full of air?
1200 sq ft house with 8 foot ceilings are typical for many places.
So that is about 9600 cubic feet of air.
So you need to run it about 24 min or so to remove any high humidity. Less dryer cfm's then you run the dryer longer (with clothes in it of course, vented outside).
If you have an older home that is not air tight like newer ones, you are already drawing in dry winter air into your home.
If you home is really old and has wood paneling, you NEED that extra humidity (ask wood stove users about paneling and dryness).
You can run a dehumidifier to control humidity. That would be cheaper than paying to reheat your home every 30 minutes. If you have kids running in and out constantly, that too replenishes the house with dry air.
One reason for dryer fires is that people's homes are too air tight. Dryer cannot breathe very well and the slow air flow through the vent deposits a buildup of lint. That and not keeping the lint screen clean of course.
I did this method:
ua-cam.com/video/rYsT0rvZqyM/v-deo.html&pp=ygUSZHJ5ZXIgdG8gaGVhdCBob21l
ua-cam.com/video/8A9R7gsuNlE/v-deo.html&pp=ygUSZHJ5ZXIgdG8gaGVhdCBob21l
I wanted to do this but unable to because of dryer location:
ua-cam.com/video/1t6576tPDVg/v-deo.html
DO NOT VENT INSIDE for gas dryers due to carbon monoxide.
@@markd5067 Was wondering if you had a humidifier on your furnace. And what do you have it set at?
Any idea how much water it takes to run a humidifier?
I disconnected my dryer vent to the outside and plugged the hole. Took the vent tube and ran it into the top of a 5 gal bucket, 1/2 filled with water and a little dish soap. Top lid has about 15 1" holes in it to allow easy air to escape.
When dryer runs, it blows the air onto the water catching lint that wasn't trapped, warming the water and adding humidity to the air.
I would have preferred to run that vent tube into another room but the house setup won't let me so natural air circulation has to do it. It does work pretty well though.
The setup is entirely reversible. I have to switch from the bucket to the outside in late spring. If I could con the wifey, I might make a fresh air intake for the dryer for summer use but that entails making a big hole and running more pipe.
Think how a high efficiency furnace piping works.
Interesting product and I think it was the best choice for you! Thanks for the video. I would have put the extension piece over top instead of inside, it will be a collection point for lint as well as a bit of a reduction in air flow.
One big enough to cover over the top of the outflow may have been too big for the new vent system.
@@jimmiller6704 you can get extenders with one end big enough to fit the original vent pipe, the other end is the same diameter as the original vent pipe. It's a standard connector, similar to the ones you can get for copper or various plastic pipes.
Thank you so much for the advice! 👍🏽😊
NOPE! You put the aluminum insert into the pipe on the outflow end, so now there is a sharp edge INSIDE the vent pipe that will catch lint until it plugs up! Danger of fire. And the efficient of the dryer will be reduced.
By that logic the backside of a plane wing would catch debris and be full every time it passes the ocean. A cars exhaust would be full of smoke particles and clogged after say a year. Plus; if lint would catch on that edge it would catch on every fault in that vent pipe.
@@noeraldinkabamHe’s correct, the insert will have an edge which will collect lint.
Collection of rain?
Too bad it’s plastic can’t use it as has to be metal to pass inspection for fire insurance
@@noeraldinkabam Your plane and car analogies make no sense.
And yes, if you inspect any dryer exhaust, you will see the that lint DOES catch on each and EVERY defect in the pipe.
Nice, would not cut out the drip edge (2x4), if it was possible to build-out the tube. Looks nice though.
He literally created a 6” section of wall that all the rain running down will go into his wall rather than stay outside as designed. I would have cut the cheap plastic part before I cut into the outer barrier of my house.
@@michaelalbert8474Right, I thought the same.
Thank you for sharing your advice! 🙏🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse at minimum remove the vent and paint the cut wood to protect it.
Literally installed like an IDIOT
Thanks for the video. Got tired of cold air coming in at the dryer and also at bathroom exhaust fan vents from the other types during windy days. This product solved the problem.
As per instructions, you have a limit on how many 90 degree turns in your dryer vent system are allowed as too much back pressure will limit performance.
I have tried a lot of dryer vents in my 69 years on this planet and none of them lasted very long and all had similar flaws...mainly just being cheaply made from thin, usually galvanized, tin material. I ended up paying $30 for one on Amazon made from stainless steel and it was well worth it. Bear in mind I just have a basic setup with a hole thru a piece of 1/2" plywood where a basement window was removed. I think that is one of the most common so just thought I would mention it. Stop buying the cheap ones from Home Depot and spend the extra money. It's worth it in the long haul. The one you showed would not fit my application but it does look like a great option too.
Oh and good point on the multi-tool. I have one on my list to get next !!
I installed that type a few years ago and it is great. My only concern is that sunlight exposure seems to make it brittle eventually. Definitely be careful cleaning it in extreme cold weather as the plastic will break if you are not gentle.
I have been doing home repairs for many years first time watching your show I believe you should have seal the surrounding areas before installing the new Dryer Vent also by placing an additional vent extension tube inside, the dryer vent tube you have created a place for the lint to accumulate and eventually create a blockage
i have 2 of those in my house installed first the plastic ones which lasted only 2 year because heat makes it so fragile then upgraded to the metal ones. They are great product specially the stainless steel one. This past winter when temperatures were low something i noticed as you can see the steam traveling path in colder weather much clearer the issue was is if your soffit AREA HAS VENTS AND THEY ARE 6 to 10 feet above the vent it just suck all the steam and condensation into your attic. That is a perfect recipe to cause mold in your attic
I have one and it works great. Did have to replace the cap after about 9 years (UV damage caused it to crack). Probably should have painted it. Mine was a slightly different design where the cap fit on (like a yogurt container). I like the hinged version you have better.
I love when new products are presented; sometime a gem is found. Thank you!
Interesting design. It actually makes sense if used properly. I agree with a few comments about the installation. The previous install with the tube running under the dirt is away from the AC unit. Lint from the vent can mess up the AC. Another problem you might run into will be a clogged vent pipe. You put a raw edge of the extender inside the pipe. It give lint to collect and clog that defeats the exhaust flow. Also, a huge fire Hazzard.
And allowing rain to go directly off of the siding into the inside of the foundation, instead of having a sill to direct it away. Not recommended. It should have been sticking out another 4" to 6"
I think this product has a best design for a vent cover. I am getting one this week. Thanks for the tutorial!.
Installed similar product about six months ago and while they are pricey for a bit of plastic, THEY WORK GREAT, my dryer was alway cold and the floor area around it with the shitty flapper style. Now the dryer and area are always at room temperature. I will never go back.
I'd like to see follow ups of things you did. Like a year from now, how is this vent cover holding out? Was there a lint trapping problem, etc. Your videos are excellent!
I installed one of these on our house in 1996. Still works great. It does need to have the lint cleaned out regularly. Also, the outside of it should be painted for UV protection.
I have one but looking at the material of the vent cover decided to paint it since the plastic used can yellow and become brittle if not painted.
It was easy to paint to match the house on the outside and didn’t affect any bit of the performance while greatly increasing the UV protection.
Just installed the new outside dryer vent. Your video was perfect. Easy peasy. Thank you for turning me on to this product. What a difference!
You can paint those also a matching color to the house. That dryer discharge probabaly needs cleaned out as that cup on mine flies out if the lid isn't down. That cup you were showing was barely lifting off. Love that dryer vent though big help in keeping outside air out.
I liked the product, this would help energy efficiency. Put the extension on the outside of the dryer tube, same reason as others commented. Always force air out, to dislodge any built up lint. I use my leaf blower to blow out my dryer vent, an architect friend’s trick. 👍
Nice job and great video! I do think the tube within a tube adapter is going to gather a lot of lint. I would plan to check it in a few months to make sure it's not building up.
Thanks for the tips!🙏🏽😊
This is a great product! I have been using mine since 2011, yes that's correct 2011, not 2024. This product has been around for a while now.
I installed one of these a few months ago and it was a lot more complicated than this. I had a lot more overhang of the siding than this so I had to build up a wood frame around the vent hole to get it to line up. Then, the siding had a lot of angle to it so I had to make a wedge to hold the upper section. Also, my dryer blows with much more force which pushed the cap up against the lid. Problem is that the "latch" that's supposed to hold the lid in place doesn't work. I had to glue a weight to the lid to keep the air flow from blowing it open and pushing the cap out and onto the ground. This product needs 2 things: 1: a better latch and 2: an adjustable bracket on the top.
I'm curious if you saw much in the way of cold temps this winter and if you checked the thing when it was really cold out. My gut tells me that the way this is designed, it's going to be super prone to freezing itself shut in subzero temps.
Same with ours. We had to place a weight to keep it closed to stop the cap from falling out.
Looks pretty good. My old-style dryer vent eventually gets lint buildup and jams the flapper from closing, I have to clean out the lint every 2-3 years. Nice thing about this is it isn't super expensive. So many of these "this version is better" videos the "new version" is quite expensive.
I read the negative comments on the dryer vent cover and there were quite a few that mentioned that the cap did not stay closed and the disk would pop out of the assembly. Even without the cap coming open, some said the disk would flip over, thus eliminating any protection from backdrafts. Some additionally said the disk would get jammed in the channel and not open up fully, which could constitute a fire hazard from an overheating dryer.
It seems like a neat idea, and perhaps has potential, but improvements are apparently needed before it is ready for prime time, especially at its price point.
I’ve watched your channel for quite some time. I really enjoy the different projects and things that you’ve done. I also would like to say how very sorry I am for your loss. I lost my mother to kidney failure, so I know what you went through with that. The old saying time heals all wounds is very true. Both my mother and father have been gone for sometime now. But I think of them often and I miss him very much, but you carry on. As you said, we will see each other someday again. He’s a piece of our Lord be with you and your family.
Sincerely, Ken
I put same one on my house 17 years ago. Still good. Plastic does yellow over time
those caulk caps are a must. dont leave college with another mouth to feed.
You put the new extension inside the existing. The edge is gonna catch lint. A touch of caulk on the screw heads to prevent rust.
That area you cut away needs some flashing or something to protect it from rain intrusion. Water flowing in there can cause rot wood, erode the soil and even create foundation issues.
I'm going to try out this product. The one I have has 5 louvers that open when the dryer is working that tend to collect hair and lint over time requiring monthly cleaning, even with the dryer machine screen. This product seems like it will be easier to keep clean and lint and hair free.
The product is great I have used. For years VERY noticeable temperature difference in the winter from reduced air infiltration . but your dryer air flow is still low check the whole discharge system.
Whats stopping lint from connecting on the 4inch pipe you put inside the existing pipe.
Nothing. It will collect lint. It needs to be over the tube, not inside it.
Good video, i like the vent design. I would have found some way to route the tube farther away from the AC condenser unit because lint can become a problem for it. And always try to keep tube joints connected in such a way as to be very smooth inside.
Why on earth did you cut the original duct back so far? You should have had it go inside your new vent. What you did is wrong. It will now catch lint.
Another option is to get a heat pump high quality dryer and eliminate the exhaust vent all together. Plus, we'll save on your heating and cooling bills by not exchanging the inside air with the dryer pulled in outside air.
You can also get a kit that lets you filter the hot air from your dryer and vent inside your home. I do this in the winter because why waste all that heat and humidity during the cold dry months.
Got a link for that? That sounds like a great idea!
I think you could pick one up at a big box hardware store or Amazon. I dont know if you can safely do this with gas dryer tho. I just put a panyhose over the pipe myself.@@TheTruthSeeker756
Interesting dryer vent. It seems like it will make cleaning the duct very difficult to clean as it doesn't look like the brush will make it through the tight bend.
Adding any resistance to the flow works against the dryer and keeping the exhaust clear of lint.
This Air-Flow product is a wonderful replacement parts. Thank you so much for your guidance and workmanship. Great job my friend 💯
Woooow, i thought the gas line was a bad install.... the dryer guy was like "hold my beer"
@@zanna9857I don't think k it was staged. He made a couple of mistakes. Which can not only cost him money. It can cause a fire.
@@nans969 - it was staged, and the stooge making this video doesn’t know how to do this properly. So of course there will be mistakes.
@@zanna9857 @stevebabiak6997 I wholeheartedly disagree. The buried dryer vent shows signs of corrosion and imminent failure. This is totally something a "joe jobber" would have left for the next person, have you ever even worked in residential maintenance? Why all the hate for this channel, did your girlfriend step out on you or something?
I’m glad you saw that episode my friend 🙏🏽😊
@@jeremiahbullfrog9288 - you think it’s bad to dislike bad information? Really?!?!
Like watch that whole video, and just count how many mistakes this stooge makes. Any home inspector would tear this work to pieces.
I watch every single one of your videos, even if it's something I initially don't think I'll be interested in. They're always interesting and I always wind up learning something. Thanks for being such a good teacher. Cheers!
Brother!!! Thank you so much for this video!!!! I keep getting small birds coming into the vent and setting up home! I have to go in and clean it out, then I try to put several metal wires to block their entrance but it's not full-proof. This is awesome! Thank you!
I’m glad I could be of help my friend! 🙏🏽😊
Looks great, I'm gonna get one right away. Last winter -10 degrees we had a strong wind out of the north, blowing straight into our dryer vent. I opened the dryer door and it was like a freezer inside. This vent would definitely prevent that. Thank you!
Store your food in there 😁
@@swiftaudi Doesn't work when you have to dry your clothes.
@@QBRX LOL I was only kidding.
@@swiftaudi Really, I thought you were serious.
@@QBRX Man, emotion is so hard to convey I can’t tell if you’re joking now!
I really like this "dryer vent" upgrade and think that it will be very helpful to my client's!
My question: does the dryer vent dust and lent "fall out of the bottom " of the upper-vent part?
Well done, Sir!
Yes the dryer lint blows out from the bottom. I already see a pile forming on the dirt hehe
Only thing missing is painting/sealing the now raw edges of the wood you just cut. The siding and trim is painted or stained for a reason. If you want to prevent future rotting around the vent, this is a quick but important step.
Wow, that Worx oscillating saw is awesome, its almost like it is operating in fast forward mode!😄
All joking aside, oscillating saws are awesome.
Look like a good solution, but I hope no garden gnomes or little boys mistake it for a tiny toilet.
Lol
Gnome toilet..omg LMAO
😂
😂😂😂😂😂
Thank you, this solves one of my problems with a slab on grade apartment build regarding the dryer venting to the front of the apartment. This product will allow it to be installed low and unobtrusive,,,nice!
An alternative to cutting your weather protection layer away is to block out under it from the face of the building with a pressure treated board or something less damaged by moisture like painted metal. You'd have to extend the pipe a bit, but it might be worth the effort in the long run.
Yes, use this type vent. I have had one for 20+ years. Do not use flex exterior vent tube or gas line.
That new air flow seems to be excellent.
Love your videos. Just have a few potential issues I see. 1. Lint building up since it’s in a vertical position. 2. The inner piece of vent you added catching lint. Maybe tape the seam on the inner vent tube. 3. critters being able to crawl in from underneath.
Red wasps will build nests and so will mud dobbers thru the bottom vents.
This was an excellent video. Now looking to see how I can install this on my home!
My old vent is damaged and in need of an upgrade. My new dryer vent is on its way. Thx for the video!
Thees are a great product. Not really new, as my dad has had one on his house for at least a decade. I cleaned his dryer vent system a few months back and this thing was in great shape, with only a little bit of lint stuck in a few spots. I plan to install one at my house this summer.
Thank you for leaving me your experience and feedback 🙏🏽😊
I was unaware of this new type os dryer vent. It does look like it will save energy and be durable and easy to clean. Thanks.
I think it'll make people use more electricity because its restricting the air flow because it has to lift the piece of plastic up
While using a square vent uses a square or circle flap to let the heat out and they're both lightweight to open up by air flow nothing gets restricted because the square or circle flap opens up front wards instead of topways.
That new one could help burn out your dryer heating element in the dryer or just make you dry the clothes twice
I have a 20-year-old version to replace. This will be easy to do with your video instructions.
Excellent video. I would also use some silicone to cover the rough metal edges inside that device, make it a smooth transition, so the lint does not get caught on it, and eventually clog it.
Those rubber things do save your "kock"
I would think that this will correct the position of a vent that is too close to the ground. Nice idea, too. Saves on cleaning the collecting lint on the shutter pieces.
Good device for certain applications. That wouldn't work at my house because I have a gate to the back porch that sits close to the dryer vent but currently have a 3 louvered vent. I also wouldn't use that long of screws unless you know what is on the other side of that wall. 1/2in would be plenty.
Thank you for this informative video . My dryer vent is next to my AC compressors causing lint to get stuck In them . Will this keep the lint debris contained in the cylinder?
I have that dryer vent and its worked great for past ten years….
I installed one of these thirty years ago. Works great but you do have to clean them out occasionally.
I bought one of these about a decade ago. It seems like such a good idea, however it clogged up all the time. I eventually changed it out for a more traditional one. In your case, the vent is too close to the ground. So in your case, maybe your new option is good. I'de move the vent up higher.
great video! Not a good idea to insert an extension into the existing dryer vent. I will catch the lint and clog. If you are going to use an extension it should be installed around the exterior of the existing pipe.
Had one on my house for about 10 years, Not worried in the least about eco what ever. But it keeps the bugs out.
Great video!
This is not a new product though. My dad had one of these on the dryer vent for 40 years or so. Great product and worth it
GREAT VIDEO! i never knew what that was on the side of my home and wow! was I glad i saw this! we have/had 4 pets and who knows how often the last owners looked at it, it was packed full of pet hair. glad i got it cleaned out and, hopefully, safer for my family!
Have any of you used this for a bath fan? I'm curious how many cfm it takes to make this work.
The reason the older vent was piped under the dirt was to discharge away from the a/c condenser. Dryer lent will clog the coil,making the condenser work harder and possible damage to the compressor..
Go with the new heat pump dryers they are 50% more efficient which will cost you less money in the long run. I believe LG has a very nice one.. and you can put them anywhere they do not need to be vented to the outside..
I guess with it so low to the ground, you'd really have to pay attention in the event of snow so that it's not covered with snow preventing the vent from working. Cool design though and definitely better than former versions.
I believe the hot exhaust from the dryer would melt any snow attempting to block the vent.
Thanks. It will help to keep out the cold air
People buy a all in one washer and dryer. No vent and no 220 plug in. It runs on 110 power.
I have the new GE all in one.
I'll give you that it looks much better, but depending on where you live you likely just caused yourself problems.
First the tube that you stuck inside, that is going to cause lint to build up and plug the vent MUCH faster.
If you live someplace wet you likely just caused a water intrusion problem, that lip that you cut out and the structure behind it were all there to prevent water from getting in. No amount of caulking will seal that up long-term. (your PO box address appears to be WA, so I would suspect this to be your first problem).
Second, the gaps you left on the sides will allow critters to get inside. Bugs, rodents, and then snakes... Again, it's very unlikely you'll be able to seal that up with calk or anything similar.
I don't know what your situation inside is, but your best bet is to try to move the vent to a more appropriate place and to rebuild the sill plate (the support structure inside), the sill at the bottom of the siding and any other structure. The second best way is to again rebuild most of that and only leave/make a hole big enough for the duct to run through and build up a mount that will allow you to install the vent cover flat.
Do you have any info or experience on how it performs in the winter when snow covers the top? Is the floating cap affected or get stuck with humidity after it freezes?
The entire purpose of running the extended flex hose to the side of the planter was to keep dryer lint out of the A/C condenser. You’ve just made things far worse for your air conditioner. What you should have done is move the dryer duct inside the house so it exits in a different location. You’ve simply traded one problem for another.
Nice video. My concern is wasp and dirt dabbers using it as a new home. I know the vent piping into the house is good but above the floating cap might be an issue.
The homeowners used that hose to divert it awash from the AC because the dryer lint was constantly coughing the ac coils.
Interesting piece of gear. I’ve had several of the old style vents in the past and they mostly break down after a few years. The bottom screen used to block critters breaks down and falls apart. This appears to be more robust and a simpler operation.