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I am a contractor with over 30 years of experience in multiple trades, and I just wanted to compliment you on your very nicely demonstrated procedure. You articulate very well and your information is "refreshingly accurate"..a real benefit to people who would consult such videos of guidance on how to do something themselves, particularly if they have little or no experience at "do-it- yourself" tasks. Thank you, and Cheers to you, my friend!
I agree that he articulates as well and is concise with good flow. A few more pointers: 1) Every home owner or contractor (up sell and QA opportunity) needs to keep documentation of any modifications or anytime you have to open a wall (especially if you do good work) that saves a ton of headache later and adds to resell value is to keep a notebook of modifications and where things are (digital is best so you can add photos easily). 2) Protection is a good idea such as nail plate or he used "Easy Guards" inside the stud which neither protect the Romex behind the dry wall not in studs like conduit which based on the location behind the floor trim isn't likely so documentation comes into play instead. 3) I agree with @No1Sonuk, always have cheap non conductive fire resistant string to add easy access cord pullers to tie to box/romex/cables. Tag it, you can buy 1000 of these for like $2, I bought the ones that double as anchors/mag guide compatible since tech is constantly upgraded, 500 for $8. 4) @EverydayHomeRepairs, A list of bare minimum common household tools and then recommended would be nice since you articulate so well and probably already have a database where you keep track of some of these things for analytics and recycling content, its a simple export paste or AI tool. 5)@gerrymcintosh4477, I agree, a quick mention of Spackle and printable chalk would have been good and can still refer to who you support for details. 6) Recessed box options: box extenders, angled nail Electrical Boxes, Sandwich style boxes, 2-gang Recessed TV Box (use generic search terms like low voltage or Multimedia Outlet for 3rd or half priced boxes compared to marked up marketing schemes), and pro tip of Outlet Spacers to bring to Code. 7) @chadm1978, agreed, clipping nails does take less time but I like to bend the nails or clip and grind if its not a big area. 8) @richarda3659, agreed quite often times TV's are mounted on an outside wall and a couple of considerations should be taken into account as well an insulation and house breathing air flow considerations where common thought would be to seal it up tight but extra considerations and tax benefits of updating insulation one room at a time might be very beneficial in which case your tax credit allowance.
I've always struggled to do this. I personally have just always found it easier to rip the old box out and put in an old work box with the cables routed into it(if next to a stud, I prefer getting the old/new work boxes that can be screwed into the stud from inside the box)
I appreciate you highlighting all of the tools you use and the links where to buy them. Nothing is more frustrating than seeing a great video but not knowing where the buy the necessary tools to make the job easier. Another great video Scott.
As a DIYer, it's not even just knowing where to find tools, but even knowing said tools exist, which is something you just pick up on over the years. I can't even count the number of times I've said, "holy crap there's a tool for that?"
Your videos are always so informative, Scott. You not only show HOW to do the project but you also show WHAT tools work best to minimize my aggravation as a DIYer. Thanks so much.
Great video. I recommend fishing the Romex through the original outlet first. Push all the Romex through the outlet, the studs, then using a line to pull it up to the new outlet hole. This saves the effort of blindly pushing the Romex into the original outlet.
ELECTRICIAN?! So where are you licensed? This guy doesn't fasten the wire ANYWHERE which in my country goes against code. Every electrician should tell you that at least be sure to follow code in your area. This is just a fucking ad video and I hate it for it.
Scott as a first time homeowner I have to say you have inspired and taught me so much. This is something I have done in my home and family members as well. Excellent video and channel!
Awesome video! One tip I recommend is to start at the existing outlet and feed your wire down to the baseboards. Then pull it to the newly created outlet hole. Before you put the old work box in, feed the wire through the box and then place the box in the hole and secure. Doing this method is way easier and you get the perfect length of wire. He didn’t show how he got the perfect length of wire. If you do it his method you have to estimate how much wire you need because it’s way harder to feed the wire coming the opposite direction into the tine hole in the existing outlet box. Let alone other wires coming into it. Outlet boxes also have built in strain relief(the angled plastic you push out of the way) so it makes it even more difficult to pull wires out of the box from the other direction which also makes it more challenging, if you do his method, trying to fish it up into the existing box. Long story short, save yourself time and frustration starting from the existing outlet and work to the new one.
Thank you. I was wondering how he got the romex through the hole in the old box so easily. I'm sure I would have spent hours trying to thread a needle I could not see.
@@carwasherrors6454 Exactly. As I watched the video, I had the same thought. I came to this site to see if someone had already made the point. You can notice how he completely skipped over how to get the new Romex through the bottom of the old junction box. That was unprofessional of him to skip that important step!
I like how you took precautions for safety with the romax covers in the studs. Only paint would be on the trim which really could just be filled in with caulking. Nice video
I'm intriqued that the originating outlet has the grounds just twisted together, no wirenuts!! Have a house built around 1968, all the original outlets are that way. Whenever I've had the need to change an outlet, I'll replace all of them in a room, and make good ground connections. And WAGO 221's are the BOMB for this! Solid, fast, and easier than nuts.
Seems to be a standard around here. Almost every installation I have seen has had all the ground conductors twisted into a group. The good part is that you know the ground conductors have really good contact, but it's a real mess of copper in the back of the box. I'm 50/50 on cleaning it up or just leaving the thing that works alone, depending on the nature of the work I'm doing and how much energy I have to "correcting" it (I use quotes because twisting all the ground wires together tightly is a really reliable connection, so it's not wrong).
@@natehoy6924 I can see it being 'standard' but is it to code according to the time the house was built? And once seen, should it be left like this? I live in a house built about 1968, like most other houses in my neighborhood. I've lost count of the # of outlet boxes where twisting the grounds was done, which I then corrected to wire nuts (and now wago's). When we remodeled out kitchen I was very diligent about this;
Make sure to check your local state requirements for how high the cable needs to run from the floor. In California its 16 inches to prevent electrocution from standing water. The Romex cable I coated but I wouldn't take any chances.
Nice video. In the UK we have noggins between the uprights in our stud walls which would make this a whole lot harder but I loved the approach of just removing the skirting board and doing the cleve work behind that. Great work but UK plug sockets are the best and a whole lot safer
I’m a little surprised the walls woudln’t have noggins (or cross braces) at intervals. The height of a wall is a long way without bracing. Is it assumed the dry wall is doing that job?
Using a utility knife to remove the outer insulation needs to be done very carefully, and with a new blade! You’ll very easily cut into the inner insulation which is a big no no! You didn’t mention the choice of positioning the new outlet (which is illegal to install yourself where I’m from). You’ll need to make sure that there’s enough room behind the TV for the plug on the power cord.
I had no idea that "wago"s existed. Now I see that's the WAY TO GO! I have a 4 gang box with ooodles of size 12 wires and the big red nuts crammed in. I had to push against the opposite wall to get the faceplate flush so I could screw it in place. Then the nightlight quit working after a couple of weeks. I've been dreading taking it out... now I believe I'll swap nuts for wagos, put in a GFCI outlet (more of the heavy wires) in that spot and use a disposable" plug in nightlight. Thanks so much!
Really useful video. I recently wall mounted our TV with the plan to install an outlet behind it. That said, there are "in wall TV power kits" (LeGrand makes several) for behind the TV outlets which have you install two faceplates; one behind the TV with a receptacle that the TV (and soundbar if present) plug into, and one at outlet level near the floor with male prongs, and the two are connected in the wall cavity via a cord. You then run what's essentially a short extension cord from a nearby electrical outlet to the male prongs on the new floor outlet, which energizes the outlet behind the TV. Many of these kits include a non-electrical cord pass through molded into the faceplates for HDMI cables to game consoles, blu-ray players, etc. You wouldn't need to remove the trim, remove drywall screws, cut the strip of drywall away, cut power, remove and re-wire the existing outlet and the new outlet, reattach drywall and trim, spackle and repaint the trim, etc. You just need to cut two holes for the faceplates and fish the included in-wall cord from hole to hole. The one downside I can think of -- if you don't have a media center or other furniture below the TV, you'd see the short power cord running sideways from an existing outlet over to the new faceplate near floor level with male prongs. In theory, it's more expensive to buy one of these kits than buying an outlet but if you need to buy a trim pry tool, 15' of 12-2 romex, Wagos, wirestripper, etc. it will actually end up significantly cheaper for a DIYer on a budget. The only tools required would be a level and a drywall jab saw or multi-tool to cut out the holes for the faceplates.
Agreed, the recessed kits are the way to go, and an opportunity to run an HDMI cable down the same cavity with no actual additional work was a big miss. Even if not going with a recessed KIT, it should have been a recessed OUTLET so the TV could fit flat to the wall with a standard plug. It was a good DIY video, but a terrible AV/Tech video.
@@davidp6839 - Except that it's against code to have 120 and Low/No voltage wiring in the same box. There would be no viable way to create an HDMI / Optical run without repeating the process almost from scratch.
@@FHL-Devils Yeah he simplified it by claiming the TV didn't need HDMI any more because all content was being streamed wirelessly over WiFi, which is fine when that's the case, but a lot of times it isn't, and then it gets more complicated.
Very nice video. I’m glad to don’t spend several minutes showing all the mundane steps, but rather you kept the flow of the essential information moving at an enjoyable pace. Super well done Sir. BTW, I use spackling to cover those brad holes and Alex Plus “paintable” caulk. Wish you well with your UA-cam channel. 🇨🇦💝
Many houses are built out of brick. Interior walls generally are built with drywall because it’s easy and cost efficient to do renovations. In the UK plaster board is common for interior walls….not sure who is using cardboard.
@@darkcell06 No, they generally aren't - come and have a look at mine. As for dry walls, they are made from plasterboard which is basically plaster glued to a cardboard backing sheet.
Thanks for this! New homeowner and new to electrical home edits and have two mounted TVs I need an outlet for! Love seeing all the contractor and electrician seal of approvals on here easing my mind that I won’t accidentally burn my house down over time❤️❤️❤️
You did a great job there. Lucky to have drywall and studs. Most older houses here in UK would be plastered walls or perhaps dot and dab drywall so chasing out walls needed. 😳 Its also regs here to sleeve the earth wires so no bare conductors are showing. I like those cable protection inserts. Great idea. 👍🇬🇧
I love the video overall. It was slick and easy to follow. I also am REALLY glad to know about Easy Guard and the trim pooling tool. Thanks! I do however two items of concern. First, you didn't show what (for me) is the hardest part of the operation and one that I don't know how to do. How did you snake/pull the romex up into the old outlet junction box? That can be a little bit of a pain without the drywall in the way. To the best of my knowledge, this was (quite literally?) the only thing you didn't show in the video. Second, electrical codes. Isn't Romex supposed to be secured to the studs? And secured within 8-12" of the box at the TV? I don't think it is supposed to be just running up, inside the wall up to the TV outlet you installed. Please advise.
This was a DIY project with (relatively speaking) very low current draw, and while I agree that this technique may not strictly meet code in all States, it's probably quite safe regardless, especially on what was presumably an inside, non load-bearing wall.
@@richarda3659 So, codes are just gentle guidelines that one can choose to ignore when one feels they are not necessary? I won't say that I have been 100% code compliant on every DIY project that I have ever done. However to not say anything at all about codes in the video is a concern, I think. 20 years ago, I wouldn't have even known to ask the code question. And, someone might 'leverage' this video and the technique to do something more dangerous than what was shown here.
One tip WRT the second wall plate you showed for HDMI, etc. cables is that if you use two, run a long piece of string between them for running extra cables later. Make it at least twice as long as the gap + 2 feet, with a loop knot tied in the middle. This can then be used to easily pull cables between the two holes.
I agree, always have cheap non conductive fire resistant string to add easy access cord pullers to tie to box/romex/cables. You can buy tags for it, you can buy 1000 of these for like $2, I bought the ones that double as anchors/mag guide compatible since tech is constantly upgraded, 500 for $8.
This is great for situations where you don't have an outlet directly below your t.v. location. But the edge of the t.v. was directly above the outlet you pulled power from. So all you had to do was cut a j-bix sized hole behind the t.v. and run your new wire to your new j-box and outlet. Or you could have placed your new outlet on the other side of the stud from the old outlet and drilled your hole through the stud at that location.
Beat me to it. Exactly how I did it in my home. There is no need to have the plug centered behind the TV, it just needs to be _anywhere_ behind the TV. Arguably, it's much better being closer to one side or the other of the TV, so that you can simply reach your hand a short way in from the side to unplug it, if need be, without unmounting the entire TV.
Nice work, I have been putting off running wire behind the wall mounted tv for over a year and this path just encouraged me to go ahead and complete it
I have mounted many like this. However, I usually run romex thru back of lower outlet first then thru smaller holes in bottom of wall studs.Then it is easier to run the romex up thru the large space in wall and easy to grab at upper hole before installing new box. The wago do work well. Other than that, we both do the rest the same. Great video.
When using pry-bar place a 1/4" board between the wall and pry-bar so you don't gouge the wall from pressure point with pry-bar. Try and put prybar right above where trim nails are located so the trim doesn't split.
Awesome! Great job! But we rarely have dry walls in our country. They're mostly made of concrete, bricks or CMUs. So it's much more harder to do the same job here. Thanks for the video!
Just closed escrow and getting the new place ready. Got a big screen TV and I was going to have to pay someone to get rid of that TV plug. But I will watch this video again, a few times, and I am confident I can do this. I already subscribed and am looking forward to your next video.
Nice!! I was suspicious of the claim to be able to run this wiring without drywall repair or painting. But, I'd never even thought of going behind the baseboard like that. Very clever!
As a professional TV installer I see a couple of major issues. First of all by putting that outlet right smack in the center of the double wishbone you will never be able to push the TV back all the way because the wires are in the way. Second of all it seems like you could've moved the outlet to the very right of the TV behind the TV just barely covering it and going straight down into the stud bay without all that drama. Of course this scenario would only work with empty walls without fire blocks. But if there were no fire blocks in the center wall cavity chances are there would not have been any fire blocks to bays over. Of course I always carry a bore scope to check for fire blocks. I've seen this video before and it is great for moving Romax across several studs without making any necessary holes in the drywall. And those easy guards are fantastic! Thank you for posting this video
Yes, about the fire breaks. I live in a house that was built in 1946, so fire breaks are in all the walls. I guess you would have to cut out a square of sheet rock to notch a channel out of the fire break, apply a metal cover over the channel, and then do a repair using the removed piece of sheet rock. It can be done, but it will require paint unless someone has a better way.
I know the goal was not major paint or drywall repair, but just have to add, the look, fit, and finish of a recessed box can be so nice when it comes to TVs. Absolutely love them on my installs! Definitely great content from the perspective of a low voltage guy though.
Am I the only one wondering how you got the new wire up and into the existing box? You skipped that part. Overall a very good and concise video. I like your work.
@@garychandler4296so not code? Meaning someone else doesn't know that wire is there and can cut into it? Yea not the smartest thing to do.. people like this are why contractors scratch their heads on jobs
@@garychandler4296 just say you don't know why codes exist and why things aren't done like this "for the ease of it.. if trades people could just do it how they want to.. then why aren't they? If someone buys this home and later goes to renovate.. are they going to cut into a wire that isn't properly secured or even properly ran? You home owner DIY make contractors charge more to fix dumb "easy jobs" like this all the time.. there's a reason there are codes to standardize the work also.. we get it though.. everyone who uses a screw gun thinks of themselves as a contractor and tradesman.. 🤣
I was just going to ask the same thing as Clyde; what do you do if there's insulation in the wall? Often the wall is insulated, because TVs are likely to get mounted on an outside wall. But this was a very cool idea and I'm impressed with how clean the results were. Yeah, you'll have to fill the nail holes and touch them up with matching paint.
They make strong magnets with a leader on it. You can tie a pull rope to the leader (search AMZN for MAGNEPULL XP1000-6), then from the outside of the drywall, you put another strong rare earth magnet and just walk the magnet up. It'll pull the magnet right up the wall pushing the insulation out of the way. Or you can buy a pull (fish) rod that's flexible. Tie a pull rope to it and push it from the new junction box (at the top) and push it down to where the trim was. Untie the pull rope and us it to pull the new romex.
agreed quite often times TV's are mounted on an outside wall and a couple of considerations should be taken into account as well an insulation and house breathing air flow considerations where common thought would be to seal it up tight but extra considerations and tax benefits of updating insulation one room at a time might be very beneficial in which case your tax credit allowance.
A buddy of mine is a now retired electrician, years ago he showed me how to fish CAT5 cable throughout my house. I learned a lot from that project and now my house has internet wired throughout. This project is right up that alley and gives homeowners power, literally. lol
I've run into blocks between the studs inside the wall before. That can definitely make the job take longer. Had to get an extra long spade bit to deal with that.
Another thing about this video, is that it show that's it possible. Which gives us a an incentive to call a professional to do it for us, if we are not comfortable to it ourself.
Nice job! Coming from the UK, can't help but envying your American timber framed homes. Seems nine times out of ten, over here, it's brick behind the plaster.
from 12:35, I just mounted my TV in the bedroom, and I got rid of all the wires by reversing the double outlet near the floor so that they are now in the closet. In A/V talk, this is called an 'AV closet', and I was told it's found in high end homes. However, any DYIer can do it, and it's a super space saver in bedrooms.
Probably fished it through and likely was a PITA. Might have been easier to start by threading through the existing box. But hindsight is 20:20. This was a great video and explanation !
Neither fish tape nor fish rod are difficult to use. The only time there might be a problem is if there were fire breaks part way up the studs. @@robertf4209
The most difficult part of this, at least for me, is how to get the romex from the floor up to and through the box. I also think opening a hole in the box already in the wall may not be easy. You kinda skipped those steps.
Paul, I have about 12" of chain, like the stuff on a basement light socket, tied to 8 feet of string. I drop it down, and easily grab it at the bottom, then tie it to the Romex and pull it back up. I always try to go down, not up, for my first action.
I would use a 54" 1/2" flexible auger bit and most likely drill from the top down. Just be a bit careful if it is your first time as the bit can jump off the wood and punch through the drywall.
Do same process, just change tools to concrete/masonry purposes. Such as a concrete drill bit, metal wall box, same wiring, some liquid nail and or lead wall anchors and fasteners. I'm fairly certain this entire procedure is for the confident homeowner and not a leased or rented situation! . And hopefully an electrical inspector isn't watching either....lol. but, it does look better though!
Please do not cut out steps to doing projects. For beginner DIYers, they need to see how to knock out in the box being taken out and also how to get wire up to the box. You can't assume they know anything. This is a good beginner DIYer video as many would like to know how to hide wires behind the TV.
Awesome job! In a perfect world the upper outlet would be in the same bay as the lower so you could just run fish tape to pull it up. I love Wago connectors. They are so great and are game changers. Thanks for posting.
Question for those wago connectors. This is my first time seeing them and I know very little about electrical. How do those switches know where to run power? Because wasn't that outlet a 4 way? (I believe 4 ways just mean it ties into something else in line, another putler or switch). When he did the 3 together into the wago and only 1 out, how does that affect the other things in line? Because if you wire them wrong the tester will say hot reversed/neutral reversed /etc. Love the idea but just bought a new house and while ill drop the money right now to do this, I don't wanna burn my house down lol
@@adm5163 So you have one black wire that brings power to the right outlet. When you connect it to a Wago with other black wires, those all are now energized, so the black wire that's going to the new outlet now has power. He branched off a single wire to the outlet on the right to energize it. It's the same principle with the neutrals and grounds. When connected with a Wago, they are unified, probably a better word, and all serve the same function. Any help?
@@Brian-Burke thank you and sorry I may have phrased that wrong. I understand that it unifies them (which is awesome and easy). But let's say in my home I do this, and there's 4 wires coming off the back of an outlet. 1 set is coming in to power the outlet and 1 set is going out to power something else correct? My question is why does it matter which wire goes where without the wago but when you use one it doesn't seem to affect the incoming/outgoing (polarity?) wires?
It does matter, regardless of whether you use Wagos or wire nuts. All a Wago does is provides an easy way to pigtail two or more wires together. When an outlet is in a string that feeds just feeds on to the next box, the electrician will often use the two provided brass screws to fasten the two black wires and the two silver screws to fasten the neutral wires. In this circuit, he was adding an outlet in parallel, so there will be three black wires, three white wires and 3 ground wires. This requires pigtailing to fasten all wires properly.
Well done. Informative and well explained. I'm confused why you did not run into a noggin in the wall? They're usually around 1200 up. That causes a whole new problem if your tv is higher than that.
Nice work, all in all! A year late to the party, but if I may offer a drywaller's pro-tip: building codes generally require that drywall sheets be secured with fasteners around all perimeters, including the bottom of the sheet. After cutting out the bottom strip, the "new bottom" of the original sheet was not secured in this video. Not a big deal with an interior wall (that is, not any outside-facing or building perimeter wall) within your own dwelling, as long as you're prepared to live with the potential of having a noisy, rattling wall at the slightest vibration. Easy fix: if you were to make your cut below the trim line just slightly more than demonstrated, you could easily secure the sheet and hide the required fasteners. Another 1/2" would be more than enough. Snap a quick chalk line as a guide in lieu of using a trowel as a spacer. *_Also, a critical safety concern for HDIY'ers out there:_* Do be advised that this method is not acceptable on partition walls and ceilings that separate individual tenant spaces (condos and apartments, for most people typically, but also commercial spaces). These "fire walls" absolutely must be properly secured with fasteners in order to ensure that the wall is resistant to modest explosions and that, at a minimum, any joints or seams are taped and any fasteners mudded at least once. This is needed in order to seal joints and penetrations against any ingress / egress of hot gases, other ignition sources, and toxic fumes crossing from one tenant space to the other in the event of a fire on either side of the wall. Additionally, if you are opening a two-hour fire resistance rated wall (typically being two sheets of 5/8" thick Type X drywall), _you may not_ have joints or seams stacked directly on top of each other. The top-most ("finished") drywall layer must overlap any joints in the bottom, base layer by between 12" to 24", depending on your local building and fire codes, in order to achieve the two-hour rating required by law. This necessarily invalidates using the baseboard trick to hide joints in your finished layers as demonstrated in the video, and will require additional work to achieve a paintable finish. *_These are life-safety items and are not optional! If there is any doubt in your mind about how to proceed when considering alterations to a fire resistance rated wall, consult a professional and allow them to assume responsibility for any liability!_* Consider relocating your entertainment center, if possible, to a less sensitive interior wall. Less work. Less mess. Less headache. Less liability. (Not only that, your neighbors will thank you for not hanging loud audio equipment on your shared partition wall!😜) [Edits for minor spelling & grammar corrections.]
Thanks for the tip about the double-stacked drywall, had an electrician add a fan box in a bedroom where we have a unit above us and I was just going to put them back, guess I'm making bigger patches now...
I live in a Florida home with Romex wiring and I've dropped wires down the wall to add outlets. Personally I think removing the baseboards going to create more work especially when it's been caulked and painted. To each his own.
The only thing I would add is that when you're cutting thru the drywall do not go too deep as the outlet might be wired from below and not above you don't want to hit the wire feeding the outlet. Also in the case where there are 6 wires check the way the outlet is setup, it might be split and being fed by 2 separate circuits. IE each of the outlets might have its own breaker.
I loved the way you explained how to do the job. I have little experience in electrical. I will use this video on my Laptop & replay as much as possible until I have it right. Thank you for sharing. David C
My Tv is mounted on an exterior wall and I started this method … with a fire block, a vapor barrier, insulation in the wall … it was so much fun … I totally recommend it 😂
Finds video on hiding power cable, performs steps in video to hide power cable, plugs tv back in with no visible cable, wife wants to relocate tv to other side of room, cries
On this and some past videos, you're always working on interior walls. Things get a lot more complicated when it's an exterior wall with insulation and VB. Would like to see how you address that at some point. Thanks!
@@jeffh4505 I like to drill through the fire block with a 1" holesaw (1 3/8 OD) about an inch and a half, No worry of sheetrock screws at that depth. Sheetrock repair is nothing more than drywall patch from Home Depot
Depending on your TV, the wall mount, and the plug for the TV you made need a media box rather than a regular old work box. They are deep and sunken in 2 gang boxes that allow you to mount a receptacle and the low voltage pass through wall plate you showed at the end side by side. It's needed if you dont have enough room behind the TV if its mounted nearly flush to the wall.
Hi, Very complete and detailed video! I just wanted to point that the electrical outlet behind the tv should be placed on a different spot because once you put the tv back up, the power cord will be on the way of the arms and the Tv will not go all the way against the wall. Once again very Professional job , detailed, clean and easy to understand
The video says to run 12/2 Romex. However, you should use whatever size wire is in the box you're extending from. If you have 14 gauge wire in the current box, then run 14/2 Romex. When he gets to where he pulls the receptacle out of the old box and pulls on the wires, you'll see the current wires have a yellow sheathing on them. So, his current box is 12 gauge. 14 gauge Romex has a white sheathing.
@@DJSubAir Though, I did see later in the comments, the original wiring was on a 20A breaker with 12/2 wiring throughout. So in this case, he was just matching what was already there.
In the USA, Yellow jacket wire is 12 gauge and used for higher amp circuits, usually in the kitchen for powering toasters, blenders, can openers, mixers, etc. You can use white jacket 14 gauge wire instead just like the wires entering the box below. It won’t change amount of power to the tv, it’s just overkill. Nice job!
I was thinking the exact same thing. I was also taught to never back plug the outlet. Always put ‘em under the screw. As well as those plugs for the pigtail. I don’t always trust those. Always twist em with a pigtail and wire nut them together.. I’ve never seen those outlet spacers either nor had to pull off the tabs unless working with a metal box like a 1900 or so on .
I don't know if it's code or not, but I was told by an electrician that it isn't good practice to use different gauge wire on the same circuit, even if using 12ga. on an existing 15 A. circuit using 14 ga. wire.
Excellent video, good detail and very well paced. I'd like to see a follow-up video that shows how to do this if the location of the television is above a (gas) fireplace mantle. Ours has two small windows located on the sides of the fireplace, about a foot above the mantle, which means there's only about a foot of horizontal run to use for putting wires through. And then, of course, there's the chimney vent to avoid with the new wiring. Recognizing that there will be differences between models of fireplaces and placements of window, bookshelves, or other features, I'm hoping that there are enough commonalities to make it possible to provide some guidance that would be useful in my (or any similar) situation. Thanks for putting in the time to share your expertise and experience!
That's all fine and well if they are interior walls. If they're exterior walls with blow-in insulation covered with plastic vapor barrier it gets a whole lot more difficult. It would also be nice if you showed how you fished the wire up into the existing box. I like the technique but in some walls it won't be that easy. I see I'm not the only one with this concern.
@@tomcharleville3136 Totally wrong. On average 70% of Europeans own their own home. Just to rub salt into the wound, in the USA as of the 2nd quarter of 2024 the figure is 65.6%. That is less than here in the UK which is 67.1%.
@@zeroblade6599i have lived in both countries. Canadian and U.S houses stands up to bigger storms. Um homes would fall apart in s hurricane and are more permanent damage. I suggest you do proper research.
Excellent. Far better than the other systems I have seen. The only thing I would do differently is to screw a small piece of scrap wood behind the drywall on the left hand side, so I could screw the drywall and baseboard to it. Just a little better support, because there is no support past the left-hand most stud, which is quite a distance away.
Nice video, this is one of those simple things that I still always wondered how it could be done for the aesthetics of the flat screen mounted television.
Nice video, but you should put on the title that this only works if you have a house made of cardboard. You can't do anything like this in an european house with brick walls 😂
A nice demonstration, but a little quick hooking up your outlets. It seemed like you both had the live wire and neutral on the same screw. Thanks for the recommendations and I am going to try this
This is a nice project for a DiY homeowner. A few things to remember: (1) always be careful where you lay your tools. Drill bits can get very hot. If you have carpet and lay the bit down after use, it might melt your carpet or burn your hard wood (2) this project applies best to interior walls that tend to have empty wall cavities. If your TV is on an outside wall, it will be full of insulation which could make a mess or make fishing the wire in the wall much more difficult. (3) be sure to watch his other videos that show how to properly install a receptacle. The one he pulled out of the wall was NOT installed to code and should not be used as an example of a properly installed receptacle. He fixed the problems when reinstalling it.
Products Used In The Video - geni.us/GYnAhy4
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I am a contractor with over 30 years of experience in multiple trades, and I just wanted to compliment you on your very nicely demonstrated procedure. You articulate very well and your information is "refreshingly accurate"..a real benefit to people who would consult such videos of guidance on how to do something themselves, particularly if they have little or no experience at "do-it- yourself" tasks.
Thank you, and Cheers to you, my friend!
I'm not a professional but I couldn't agree with you more on this video!!! I guess I'm gonna have to watch more of his videos now!!!
I agree that he articulates as well and is concise with good flow. A few more pointers: 1) Every home owner or contractor (up sell and QA opportunity) needs to keep documentation of any modifications or anytime you have to open a wall (especially if you do good work) that saves a ton of headache later and adds to resell value is to keep a notebook of modifications and where things are (digital is best so you can add photos easily). 2) Protection is a good idea such as nail plate or he used "Easy Guards" inside the stud which neither protect the Romex behind the dry wall not in studs like conduit which based on the location behind the floor trim isn't likely so documentation comes into play instead. 3) I agree with @No1Sonuk, always have cheap non conductive fire resistant string to add easy access cord pullers to tie to box/romex/cables. Tag it, you can buy 1000 of these for like $2, I bought the ones that double as anchors/mag guide compatible since tech is constantly upgraded, 500 for $8. 4) @EverydayHomeRepairs, A list of bare minimum common household tools and then recommended would be nice since you articulate so well and probably already have a database where you keep track of some of these things for analytics and recycling content, its a simple export paste or AI tool. 5)@gerrymcintosh4477, I agree, a quick mention of Spackle and printable chalk would have been good and can still refer to who you support for details. 6) Recessed box options: box extenders, angled nail Electrical Boxes, Sandwich style boxes, 2-gang Recessed TV Box (use generic search terms like low voltage or Multimedia Outlet for 3rd or half priced boxes compared to marked up marketing schemes), and pro tip of Outlet Spacers to bring to Code. 7) @chadm1978, agreed, clipping nails does take less time but I like to bend the nails or clip and grind if its not a big area. 8) @richarda3659, agreed quite often times TV's are mounted on an outside wall and a couple of considerations should be taken into account as well an insulation and house breathing air flow considerations where common thought would be to seal it up tight but extra considerations and tax benefits of updating insulation one room at a time might be very beneficial in which case your tax credit allowance.
A good salesman. Most videos promoting products l, some useless like this
What happened to the horizontal 2X4 at 4 feet, holding straight the 2 studs?
Easy when u have dry wall. Also u should insulate your earth cables
I wish you would’ve shown the part most important to me…how you got the new Romex to the original outlet once you ran it through the two studs.
Which is probably the most difficult part of the project.
Came to the comments to see if someone asked this!
Fish tape.
@@mattfleming86 But did he have to take that box out first to fish it up to the hole? Or did he fish it through a hole in the outlet box?
I've always struggled to do this. I personally have just always found it easier to rip the old box out and put in an old work box with the cables routed into it(if next to a stud, I prefer getting the old/new work boxes that can be screwed into the stud from inside the box)
Excellent video & workmanship. In my 50+ years as electrician, I:ve done thousands of similar installs & you layout the work perfectly.
I have been watching youtube for over 20 years this is a great demonstration on how to add an outlet
Thanks for the support!
Bot.
YT has only been around for 19 years
@@XM394-xxx I was just fixin to say I'm 32 and I know UA-cam wasn't a thing when I was 12
@@XM394-xxx nigga no ones gonna say 19, its easier to just round. yes this is prolly a bot but someone saying 20 wouldnt be suprising
I appreciate you highlighting all of the tools you use and the links where to buy them. Nothing is more frustrating than seeing a great video but not knowing where the buy the necessary tools to make the job easier. Another great video Scott.
As a DIYer, it's not even just knowing where to find tools, but even knowing said tools exist, which is something you just pick up on over the years. I can't even count the number of times I've said, "holy crap there's a tool for that?"
Great video! One tip as a painter I can offer is use “painters putty” in place of caulk for the nail holes.
💯 agreed. You can sand putty not caulk. Makes for a nicer job.
Your videos are always so informative, Scott. You not only show HOW to do the project but you also show WHAT tools work best to minimize my aggravation as a DIYer. Thanks so much.
Great video. I recommend fishing the Romex through the original outlet first. Push all the Romex through the outlet, the studs, then using a line to pull it up to the new outlet hole. This saves the effort of blindly pushing the Romex into the original outlet.
Exactly. Watching I liked how the romex magically came into the original box. That had to be a chore.
It seemed he dropped the Romex from the new box, pushing it down the short distance to the original box. Am l correct??
@@lynneldridge7661
Yes, that would be the best, most logical way to do it.👍 For whatever reason he didn't show that. 🤔
@@tompeters4234 yes I kept re-watching and looking for the part of how the Romex suddenly appeared behind original box
I wondered how he magically got that wire into the original box! Wouldn't he need to break a new tab off in the back to fit it in?
The channel should be called Premium Home Repairs. The precision and perfection of your work is amazing.....
Thanks!
I'm a 35 year electrician and this video shows an excellent example of how to add an electrical outlet behind a TV. Very well done!
is placing the romex at 3-4" above floor against NEC code?
ELECTRICIAN?! So where are you licensed? This guy doesn't fasten the wire ANYWHERE which in my country goes against code. Every electrician should tell you that at least be sure to follow code in your area.
This is just a fucking ad video and I hate it for it.
@@jetah Why would it be?
I thought you have to connect additional outlet at the end of the line? He tap off of an outlet. Any thoughts for the electricians is appreciated.
Nope, parallel feeds are perfectly acceptable. @@WrenchMonkey88
I was thinking there is no way you can do this without ripping up the wall. And you did it. I am stunned 😳
construction all my life. I'm 69 years old. done a lot of electrical. never would of thought of that nor never seen it. That was cool as hell
Scott as a first time homeowner I have to say you have inspired and taught me so much. This is something I have done in my home and family members as well. Excellent video and channel!
Thanks so much for the support 🙌
This was one of the most complete and learnable video ever on youtube i have seen
You are a wonderful teacher! I knew almost nothing about electrical aspects & after your clear, ego-less explanation, I know I could do this. Thanks!
Beautifully filmed and edited; it's all business, no cutesy stuff. Excellent educational standards. I am subscribed!
Yes. Cutesy stuff gets in the way. The directions flow well and are easy to follow.
Awesome video! One tip I recommend is to start at the existing outlet and feed your wire down to the baseboards. Then pull it to the newly created outlet hole.
Before you put the old work box in, feed the wire through the box and then place the box in the hole and secure. Doing this method is way easier and you get the perfect length of wire.
He didn’t show how he got the perfect length of wire. If you do it his method you have to estimate how much wire you need because it’s way harder to feed the wire coming the opposite direction into the tine hole in the existing outlet box. Let alone other wires coming into it. Outlet boxes also have built in strain relief(the angled plastic you push out of the way) so it makes it even more difficult to pull wires out of the box from the other direction which also makes it more challenging, if you do his method, trying to fish it up into the existing box.
Long story short, save yourself time and frustration starting from the existing outlet and work to the new one.
Thank you. I was wondering how he got the romex through the hole in the old box so easily. I'm sure I would have spent hours trying to thread a needle I could not see.
@@carwasherrors6454
Exactly. As I watched the video, I had the same thought. I came to this site to see if someone had already made the point. You can notice how he completely skipped over how to get the new Romex through the bottom of the old junction box. That was unprofessional of him to skip that important step!
I like how you took precautions for safety with the romax covers in the studs. Only paint would be on the trim which really could just be filled in with caulking. Nice video
Excellent video! Thanks for your help.
👍🏻😎
Thanks for the support!
I'm intriqued that the originating outlet has the grounds just twisted together, no wirenuts!! Have a house built around 1968, all the original outlets are that way. Whenever I've had the need to change an outlet, I'll replace all of them in a room, and make good ground connections. And WAGO 221's are the BOMB for this! Solid, fast, and easier than nuts.
Twisting the ground wires is actually more secure than using wire nuts. But Wago is much nicer.
Seems to be a standard around here. Almost every installation I have seen has had all the ground conductors twisted into a group. The good part is that you know the ground conductors have really good contact, but it's a real mess of copper in the back of the box. I'm 50/50 on cleaning it up or just leaving the thing that works alone, depending on the nature of the work I'm doing and how much energy I have to "correcting" it (I use quotes because twisting all the ground wires together tightly is a really reliable connection, so it's not wrong).
@@natehoy6924 I can see it being 'standard' but is it to code according to the time the house was built? And once seen, should it be left like this? I live in a house built about 1968, like most other houses in my neighborhood. I've lost count of the # of outlet boxes where twisting the grounds was done, which I then corrected to wire nuts (and now wago's). When we remodeled out kitchen I was very diligent about this;
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Make sure to check your local state requirements for how high the cable needs to run from the floor. In California its 16 inches to prevent electrocution from standing water. The Romex cable I coated but I wouldn't take any chances.
@shmellit123he used EZ Guard thru the studs.
I doubt if they are as puncture resistant as standard protective plates. @@anonymous.369
Nice video. In the UK we have noggins between the uprights in our stud walls which would make this a whole lot harder but I loved the approach of just removing the skirting board and doing the cleve work behind that. Great work but UK plug sockets are the best and a whole lot safer
I always hate when my scuddilywumpus gets in the way of my didgeridoo.
@Phillip Banes fair points.
I’m a little surprised the walls woudln’t have noggins (or cross braces) at intervals. The height of a wall is a long way without bracing. Is it assumed the dry wall is doing that job?
what gauge is that wire? Seems pretty heavy duty for a regular 110v socket which I guess you’re normally only ever pulling 1.5kw off?
@@MrKlawUK 12 Gauge
I use wago connectors because of your videos. Easiest, most useful way to wire anything. Thanks for a great video. Super useful.
Totally agree and thanks for the feedback!
I have contractor who won’t use Wago for outlets
Don’t think he trust them
Using a utility knife to remove the outer insulation needs to be done very carefully, and with a new blade! You’ll very easily cut into the inner insulation which is a big no no!
You didn’t mention the choice of positioning the new outlet (which is illegal to install yourself where I’m from). You’ll need to make sure that there’s enough room behind the TV for the plug on the power cord.
I had no idea that "wago"s existed. Now I see that's the WAY TO GO! I have a 4 gang box with ooodles of size 12 wires and the big red nuts crammed in. I had to push against the opposite wall to get the faceplate flush so I could screw it in place. Then the nightlight quit working after a couple of weeks. I've been dreading taking it out... now I believe I'll swap nuts for wagos, put in a GFCI outlet (more of the heavy wires) in that spot and use a disposable" plug in nightlight. Thanks so much!
That's fantastic! It just didn't occur to me that pulling off the baseboard was the way to hide the rework. Much appreciated. 😊
In most of the homes built since the 70s the baseboards aren't that tall. It's actually extremely rare in modern homes.
Really useful video. I recently wall mounted our TV with the plan to install an outlet behind it.
That said, there are "in wall TV power kits" (LeGrand makes several) for behind the TV outlets which have you install two faceplates; one behind the TV with a receptacle that the TV (and soundbar if present) plug into, and one at outlet level near the floor with male prongs, and the two are connected in the wall cavity via a cord. You then run what's essentially a short extension cord from a nearby electrical outlet to the male prongs on the new floor outlet, which energizes the outlet behind the TV. Many of these kits include a non-electrical cord pass through molded into the faceplates for HDMI cables to game consoles, blu-ray players, etc. You wouldn't need to remove the trim, remove drywall screws, cut the strip of drywall away, cut power, remove and re-wire the existing outlet and the new outlet, reattach drywall and trim, spackle and repaint the trim, etc. You just need to cut two holes for the faceplates and fish the included in-wall cord from hole to hole. The one downside I can think of -- if you don't have a media center or other furniture below the TV, you'd see the short power cord running sideways from an existing outlet over to the new faceplate near floor level with male prongs.
In theory, it's more expensive to buy one of these kits than buying an outlet but if you need to buy a trim pry tool, 15' of 12-2 romex, Wagos, wirestripper, etc. it will actually end up significantly cheaper for a DIYer on a budget. The only tools required would be a level and a drywall jab saw or multi-tool to cut out the holes for the faceplates.
Agreed, the recessed kits are the way to go, and an opportunity to run an HDMI cable down the same cavity with no actual additional work was a big miss. Even if not going with a recessed KIT, it should have been a recessed OUTLET so the TV could fit flat to the wall with a standard plug. It was a good DIY video, but a terrible AV/Tech video.
@@FHL-Devils He mentions the junction box at the end for additional wiring. Guess he just had no need so didn't do it here.
@@davidp6839 - Except that it's against code to have 120 and Low/No voltage wiring in the same box. There would be no viable way to create an HDMI / Optical run without repeating the process almost from scratch.
@@FHL-Devils Looked like a separate box/plate, so wires would be separate. More of a cover than a box, just access for AV wiring.
@@FHL-Devils Yeah he simplified it by claiming the TV didn't need HDMI any more because all content was being streamed wirelessly over WiFi, which is fine when that's the case, but a lot of times it isn't, and then it gets more complicated.
This is actually a brilliant idea, versus cutting dry wall, and having to redo it all. Nicely done...
👍
You made that look effortless!! Great job!! I actually have a spot in my living room that I have enough confidence to tackle now!! Thank you buddy!!!
Very nice video. I’m glad to don’t spend several minutes showing all the mundane steps, but rather you kept the flow of the essential information moving at an enjoyable pace. Super well done Sir. BTW, I use spackling to cover those brad holes and Alex Plus “paintable” caulk. Wish you well with your UA-cam channel. 🇨🇦💝
I agree, a quick mention of Spackle and printable chalk would have been good and can still refer to who you support for details.
Just wow. So informative, and looks great. Love that it all is safe, and no "shortcuts".
This is all very well but in the UK we build our houses out of bricks not cardboard, what do you do then?
Nothing. Keep your extension cord😂😂😂😂😂
You don't have interior walls in England?
This is probably a brick house.
@@redfields5070 Yes I said it was a brick house, that's what we make them from in the UK.
Many houses are built out of brick. Interior walls generally are built with drywall because it’s easy and cost efficient to do renovations. In the UK plaster board is common for interior walls….not sure who is using cardboard.
@@darkcell06 No, they generally aren't - come and have a look at mine. As for dry walls, they are made from plasterboard which is basically plaster glued to a cardboard backing sheet.
Thanks for this! New homeowner and new to electrical home edits and have two mounted TVs I need an outlet for! Love seeing all the contractor and electrician seal of approvals on here easing my mind that I won’t accidentally burn my house down over time❤️❤️❤️
You did a great job there. Lucky to have drywall and studs. Most older houses here in UK would be plastered walls or perhaps dot and dab drywall so chasing out walls needed. 😳 Its also regs here to sleeve the earth wires so no bare conductors are showing. I like those cable protection inserts. Great idea. 👍🇬🇧
I love the video overall. It was slick and easy to follow. I also am REALLY glad to know about Easy Guard and the trim pooling tool. Thanks!
I do however two items of concern.
First, you didn't show what (for me) is the hardest part of the operation and one that I don't know how to do. How did you snake/pull the romex up into the old outlet junction box? That can be a little bit of a pain without the drywall in the way. To the best of my knowledge, this was (quite literally?) the only thing you didn't show in the video.
Second, electrical codes. Isn't Romex supposed to be secured to the studs? And secured within 8-12" of the box at the TV? I don't think it is supposed to be just running up, inside the wall up to the TV outlet you installed. Please advise.
I wanted to see that as well.
This was a DIY project with (relatively speaking) very low current draw, and while I agree that this technique may not strictly meet code in all States, it's probably quite safe regardless, especially on what was presumably an inside, non load-bearing wall.
@@richarda3659 So, codes are just gentle guidelines that one can choose to ignore when one feels they are not necessary? I won't say that I have been 100% code compliant on every DIY project that I have ever done. However to not say anything at all about codes in the video is a concern, I think. 20 years ago, I wouldn't have even known to ask the code question. And, someone might 'leverage' this video and the technique to do something more dangerous than what was shown here.
There are differences in the NEC between new and old work. Is there a different requirement for wire securing that is old work?
One tip WRT the second wall plate you showed for HDMI, etc. cables is that if you use two, run a long piece of string between them for running extra cables later.
Make it at least twice as long as the gap + 2 feet, with a loop knot tied in the middle.
This can then be used to easily pull cables between the two holes.
I agree, always have cheap non conductive fire resistant string to add easy access cord pullers to tie to box/romex/cables. You can buy tags for it, you can buy 1000 of these for like $2, I bought the ones that double as anchors/mag guide compatible since tech is constantly upgraded, 500 for $8.
Huh?
This is great for situations where you don't have an outlet directly below your t.v. location. But the edge of the t.v. was directly above the outlet you pulled power from. So all you had to do was cut a j-bix sized hole behind the t.v. and run your new wire to your new j-box and outlet. Or you could have placed your new outlet on the other side of the stud from the old outlet and drilled your hole through the stud at that location.
This is what I do. 👍
Exactly no need to move Trim for this task..
Beat me to it. Exactly how I did it in my home. There is no need to have the plug centered behind the TV, it just needs to be _anywhere_ behind the TV. Arguably, it's much better being closer to one side or the other of the TV, so that you can simply reach your hand a short way in from the side to unplug it, if need be, without unmounting the entire TV.
i was going to say the same thing,no need to pull trim and drill holes in studs.
How would you get the other end of the electrical cable routed to the other outlet (safely) if you didn't drill through the intervening studs?
Nice work, I have been putting off running wire behind the wall mounted tv for over a year and this path just encouraged me to go ahead and complete it
Industrial electrician here...find myself doing stuff like this in retirement...great tip.
I have mounted many like this. However, I usually run romex thru back of lower outlet first then thru smaller holes in bottom of wall studs.Then it is easier to run the romex up thru the large space in wall and easy to grab at upper hole before installing new box. The wago do work well.
Other than that, we both do the rest the same. Great video.
Thanks 👊
Why not run romex from the top and let gravity help you out?
Nice work, easy to follow! Thanks for the tip on removing the base trim, that is the best time saver.
When using pry-bar place a 1/4" board between the wall and pry-bar so you don't gouge the wall from pressure point with pry-bar. Try and put prybar right above where trim nails are located so the trim doesn't split.
Awesome! Great job! But we rarely have dry walls in our country. They're mostly made of concrete, bricks or CMUs. So it's much more harder to do the same job here. Thanks for the video!
You have to just dig through the concrete.
I have wet plaster, what tool would work on t hat?
Just closed escrow and getting the new place ready. Got a big screen TV and I was going to have to pay someone to get rid of that TV plug. But I will watch this video again, a few times, and I am confident I can do this. I already subscribed and am looking forward to your next video.
Welcome to the channel and congrats on the new home.
You are the Man. The best installation person on you tube ,make the job so clean and Easy thank you
11:57 -- Highly recommend filling those gaps with caulking especially if you have ant problems like I do
Looks fantastic! Great work
Thanks!
Big facts. I have huge problems with stink bugs. OMG. I hate them!
Nice!! I was suspicious of the claim to be able to run this wiring without drywall repair or painting. But, I'd never even thought of going behind the baseboard like that. Very clever!
As a professional TV installer I see a couple of major issues. First of all by putting that outlet right smack in the center of the double wishbone you will never be able to push the TV back all the way because the wires are in the way. Second of all it seems like you could've moved the outlet to the very right of the TV behind the TV just barely covering it and going straight down into the stud bay without all that drama. Of course this scenario would only work with empty walls without fire blocks. But if there were no fire blocks in the center wall cavity chances are there would not have been any fire blocks to bays over. Of course I always carry a bore scope to check for fire blocks. I've seen this video before and it is great for moving Romax across several studs without making any necessary holes in the drywall. And those easy guards are fantastic! Thank you for posting this video
Yes, about the fire breaks. I live in a house that was built in 1946, so fire breaks are in all the walls. I guess you would have to cut out a square of sheet rock to notch a channel out of the fire break, apply a metal cover over the channel, and then do a repair using the removed piece of sheet rock. It can be done, but it will require paint unless someone has a better way.
@@wpatters1229you can see how he could have just cut an outlet box further right and went straight down the same stud bay as the lower outlet feed
I know the goal was not major paint or drywall repair, but just have to add, the look, fit, and finish of a recessed box can be so nice when it comes to TVs. Absolutely love them on my installs! Definitely great content from the perspective of a low voltage guy though.
Your video and explaination was well done. The Easy Guards don't hurt but aren't needed if you drill in the center of the studd
Am I the only one wondering how you got the new wire up and into the existing box? You skipped that part.
Overall a very good and concise video. I like your work.
I noticed that too. How did he fish the wire from the top box to the floor?
Feed from the box TO the floor.
@@garychandler4296so not code? Meaning someone else doesn't know that wire is there and can cut into it? Yea not the smartest thing to do.. people like this are why contractors scratch their heads on jobs
@@jacksparrow3490So how is the end result any different? We were dicussing ease of installation.
@@garychandler4296 just say you don't know why codes exist and why things aren't done like this "for the ease of it.. if trades people could just do it how they want to.. then why aren't they? If someone buys this home and later goes to renovate.. are they going to cut into a wire that isn't properly secured or even properly ran? You home owner DIY make contractors charge more to fix dumb "easy jobs" like this all the time.. there's a reason there are codes to standardize the work also.. we get it though.. everyone who uses a screw gun thinks of themselves as a contractor and tradesman.. 🤣
So when you ran the wire up the wall there wasn't a toe going from both studs?
No fire blocking in this wall. If there was you would have to use a flexible auger bit which can take some practice to not just damage the drywall.
I was just going to ask the same thing as Clyde; what do you do if there's insulation in the wall? Often the wall is insulated, because TVs are likely to get mounted on an outside wall. But this was a very cool idea and I'm impressed with how clean the results were. Yeah, you'll have to fill the nail holes and touch them up with matching paint.
Then you are better off just using clips in the wall. You won't be able to completely hide them, but the result will be much cleaner
And re-caulk it
They make strong magnets with a leader on it. You can tie a pull rope to the leader (search AMZN for MAGNEPULL XP1000-6), then from the outside of the drywall, you put another strong rare earth magnet and just walk the magnet up. It'll pull the magnet right up the wall pushing the insulation out of the way. Or you can buy a pull (fish) rod that's flexible. Tie a pull rope to it and push it from the new junction box (at the top) and push it down to where the trim was. Untie the pull rope and us it to pull the new romex.
agreed quite often times TV's are mounted on an outside wall and a couple of considerations should be taken into account as well an insulation and house breathing air flow considerations where common thought would be to seal it up tight but extra considerations and tax benefits of updating insulation one room at a time might be very beneficial in which case your tax credit allowance.
A buddy of mine is a now retired electrician, years ago he showed me how to fish CAT5 cable throughout my house. I learned a lot from that project and now my house has internet wired throughout. This project is right up that alley and gives homeowners power, literally. lol
Thanks!😊IKeep up the good work Sherman Electri
Thanks so much for the support 🙌
I've run into blocks between the studs inside the wall before. That can definitely make the job take longer. Had to get an extra long spade bit to deal with that.
For sure, I need more practice with those flexible auger bits.
I guess if the block winds up being right in the middle, you might have no choice but to cut more drywall.
In UK there’s pretty much always a horizontal timber halfway up each gap.
Same here - I just give up and cut another hole in the drywall for my right-angle drill bit adapter and then patch the extra hole.
Never seen a house without fireblocks between studs half way between the floor and the ceiling.
You explained this so well I feel confidant I could pull this off by myself 😌
did you?
@@wendyandmatthew8637 😂😂
Another thing about this video, is that it show that's it possible. Which gives us a an incentive to call a professional to do it for us, if we are not comfortable to it ourself.
Excellent tips and tricks, and very clearly described. Worth mentioning… The trickiest part is wiring the new wire to the old receptacle.
Nice job! Coming from the UK, can't help but envying your American timber framed homes. Seems nine times out of ten, over here, it's brick behind the plaster.
from 12:35, I just mounted my TV in the bedroom, and I got rid of all the wires by reversing the double outlet near the floor so that they are now in the closet. In A/V talk, this is called an 'AV closet', and I was told it's found in high end homes. However, any DYIer can do it, and it's a super space saver in bedrooms.
It looks easy enough. Maybe I missed this, but how do you push the wires up from the baseboard to the old outlet?
Probably fished it through and likely was a PITA. Might have been easier to start by threading through the existing box. But hindsight is 20:20. This was a great video and explanation !
Neither fish tape nor fish rod are difficult to use. The only time there might be a problem is if there were fire breaks part way up the studs. @@robertf4209
The most difficult part of this, at least for me, is how to get the romex from the floor up to and through the box. I also think opening a hole in the box already in the wall may not be easy. You kinda skipped those steps.
You’re exactly spot on correct!!!
I'd also appreciate seeing this.
Me too!
Paul,
I have about 12" of chain, like the stuff on a basement light socket, tied to 8 feet of string. I drop it down, and easily grab it at the bottom, then tie it to the Romex and pull it back up. I always try to go down, not up, for my first action.
Wouldn’t you just feed it from the box down to the ground & fish it out of the opening behind the baseboard?
Thank you, the demonstration of this method is great and easily understood. How do I deal with the nogs that run horizontally between the studs?
Yes, how do you get the romex past a cross horizontal stud between the two vertical studs?
I would use a 54" 1/2" flexible auger bit and most likely drill from the top down. Just be a bit careful if it is your first time as the bit can jump off the wood and punch through the drywall.
Thank you!
Thank you!
Soooo… my walls were made of brick.. what do I do now?
Move to the US of A
@@EnterNH Can I bring my free healthcare? :)
😅😅😅😅😅
buy a new house 🎉
Do same process, just change tools to concrete/masonry purposes. Such as a concrete drill bit, metal wall box, same wiring, some liquid nail and or lead wall anchors and fasteners. I'm fairly certain this entire procedure is for the confident homeowner and not a leased or rented situation! . And hopefully an electrical inspector isn't watching either....lol. but, it does look better though!
Please do not cut out steps to doing projects. For beginner DIYers, they need to see how to knock out in the box being taken out and also how to get wire up to the box. You can't assume they know anything. This is a good beginner DIYer video as many would like to know how to hide wires behind the TV.
Awesome job! In a perfect world the upper outlet would be in the same bay as the lower so you could just run fish tape to pull it up. I love Wago connectors. They are so great and are game changers. Thanks for posting.
Question for those wago connectors. This is my first time seeing them and I know very little about electrical. How do those switches know where to run power? Because wasn't that outlet a 4 way? (I believe 4 ways just mean it ties into something else in line, another putler or switch). When he did the 3 together into the wago and only 1 out, how does that affect the other things in line? Because if you wire them wrong the tester will say hot reversed/neutral reversed /etc.
Love the idea but just bought a new house and while ill drop the money right now to do this, I don't wanna burn my house down lol
@@adm5163 So you have one black wire that brings power to the right outlet. When you connect it to a Wago with other black wires, those all are now energized, so the black wire that's going to the new outlet now has power. He branched off a single wire to the outlet on the right to energize it. It's the same principle with the neutrals and grounds. When connected with a Wago, they are unified, probably a better word, and all serve the same function. Any help?
@@Brian-Burke thank you and sorry I may have phrased that wrong. I understand that it unifies them (which is awesome and easy). But let's say in my home I do this, and there's 4 wires coming off the back of an outlet. 1 set is coming in to power the outlet and 1 set is going out to power something else correct?
My question is why does it matter which wire goes where without the wago but when you use one it doesn't seem to affect the incoming/outgoing (polarity?) wires?
It does matter, regardless of whether you use Wagos or wire nuts. All a Wago does is provides an easy way to pigtail two or more wires together.
When an outlet is in a string that feeds just feeds on to the next box, the electrician will often use the two provided brass screws to fasten the two black wires and the two silver screws to fasten the neutral wires.
In this circuit, he was adding an outlet in parallel, so there will be three black wires, three white wires and 3 ground wires. This requires pigtailing to fasten all wires properly.
Well done. Informative and well explained. I'm confused why you did not run into a noggin in the wall? They're usually around 1200 up. That causes a whole new problem if your tv is higher than that.
Yeah, in our area most homes don't have noggins (fire blocks) in our wall framing.
The cleanliness at the end 🤩. I can't think of a more beautiful thing
Nice work, all in all!
A year late to the party, but if I may offer a drywaller's pro-tip: building codes generally require that drywall sheets be secured with fasteners around all perimeters, including the bottom of the sheet. After cutting out the bottom strip, the "new bottom" of the original sheet was not secured in this video. Not a big deal with an interior wall (that is, not any outside-facing or building perimeter wall) within your own dwelling, as long as you're prepared to live with the potential of having a noisy, rattling wall at the slightest vibration. Easy fix: if you were to make your cut below the trim line just slightly more than demonstrated, you could easily secure the sheet and hide the required fasteners. Another 1/2" would be more than enough. Snap a quick chalk line as a guide in lieu of using a trowel as a spacer.
*_Also, a critical safety concern for HDIY'ers out there:_*
Do be advised that this method is not acceptable on partition walls and ceilings that separate individual tenant spaces (condos and apartments, for most people typically, but also commercial spaces). These "fire walls" absolutely must be properly secured with fasteners in order to ensure that the wall is resistant to modest explosions and that, at a minimum, any joints or seams are taped and any fasteners mudded at least once. This is needed in order to seal joints and penetrations against any ingress / egress of hot gases, other ignition sources, and toxic fumes crossing from one tenant space to the other in the event of a fire on either side of the wall.
Additionally, if you are opening a two-hour fire resistance rated wall (typically being two sheets of 5/8" thick Type X drywall), _you may not_ have joints or seams stacked directly on top of each other. The top-most ("finished") drywall layer must overlap any joints in the bottom, base layer by between 12" to 24", depending on your local building and fire codes, in order to achieve the two-hour rating required by law. This necessarily invalidates using the baseboard trick to hide joints in your finished layers as demonstrated in the video, and will require additional work to achieve a paintable finish.
*_These are life-safety items and are not optional! If there is any doubt in your mind about how to proceed when considering alterations to a fire resistance rated wall, consult a professional and allow them to assume responsibility for any liability!_*
Consider relocating your entertainment center, if possible, to a less sensitive interior wall. Less work. Less mess. Less headache. Less liability. (Not only that, your neighbors will thank you for not hanging loud audio equipment on your shared partition wall!😜)
[Edits for minor spelling & grammar corrections.]
Thanks for all the great feedback!
Thanks for the tip about the double-stacked drywall, had an electrician add a fan box in a bedroom where we have a unit above us and I was just going to put them back, guess I'm making bigger patches now...
I live in a Florida home with Romex wiring and I've dropped wires down the wall to add outlets. Personally I think removing the baseboards going to create more work especially when it's been caulked and painted. To each his own.
The only thing I would add is that when you're cutting thru the drywall do not go too deep as the outlet might be wired from below and not above you don't want to hit the wire feeding the outlet.
Also in the case where there are 6 wires check the way the outlet is setup, it might be split and being fed by 2 separate circuits. IE each of the outlets might have its own breaker.
He checked both outlets to verify neither had power.
I loved the way you explained how to do the job. I have little experience in electrical. I will use this video on my Laptop & replay as much as possible until I have it right. Thank you for sharing. David C
You bet, best of luck with your project 👍
My Tv is mounted on an exterior wall and I started this method … with a fire block, a vapor barrier, insulation in the wall … it was so much fun … I totally recommend it 😂
Finds video on hiding power cable, performs steps in video to hide power cable, plugs tv back in with no visible cable, wife wants to relocate tv to other side of room, cries
Gotta keep the wifey happy
On this and some past videos, you're always working on interior walls. Things get a lot more complicated when it's an exterior wall with insulation and VB. Would like to see how you address that at some point. Thanks!
and getting around fire blocks
@@jeffh4505 I like to drill through the fire block with a 1" holesaw (1 3/8 OD) about an inch and a half, No worry of sheetrock screws at that depth. Sheetrock repair is nothing more than drywall patch from Home Depot
@@quehendricks is drywall patch fire-resistant?
Excellent video from a guy who really knows his stuff. Thank you.
Yeah, same here. All my walls a concrete, w/o cable cuts.
Depending on your TV, the wall mount, and the plug for the TV you made need a media box rather than a regular old work box. They are deep and sunken in 2 gang boxes that allow you to mount a receptacle and the low voltage pass through wall plate you showed at the end side by side. It's needed if you dont have enough room behind the TV if its mounted nearly flush to the wall.
Those boxes are pricey at $25-35 (USD). If you had a flat screen in multiple rooms that can be a little much.
Hi, Very complete and detailed video! I just wanted to point that the electrical outlet behind the tv should be placed on a different spot because once you put the tv back up, the power cord will be on the way of the arms and the Tv will not go all the way against the wall. Once again very Professional job , detailed, clean and easy to understand
What a slick way to run those wires. I learned several new techniques from your video. Thank you!
The video says to run 12/2 Romex. However, you should use whatever size wire is in the box you're extending from. If you have 14 gauge wire in the current box, then run 14/2 Romex. When he gets to where he pulls the receptacle out of the old box and pulls on the wires, you'll see the current wires have a yellow sheathing on them. So, his current box is 12 gauge. 14 gauge Romex has a white sheathing.
12/2 being yellow is optional, and has only been a thing since 2001. So it is possible to still find 12/2 that is white.
I was wondering why 12/2
If all you've got handy is 12/2, there's no harm in using the larger-gauge wiring in place of 14/2.
@@harvey66616 I guess
@@DJSubAir Though, I did see later in the comments, the original wiring was on a 20A breaker with 12/2 wiring throughout. So in this case, he was just matching what was already there.
In the USA, Yellow jacket wire is 12 gauge and used for higher amp circuits, usually in the kitchen for powering toasters, blenders, can openers, mixers, etc. You can use white jacket 14 gauge wire instead just like the wires entering the box below. It won’t change amount of power to the tv, it’s just overkill. Nice job!
Usual practice is to use 20 A circuit for receptacles and 15 A for lighting.
I was thinking the exact same thing. I was also taught to never back plug the outlet. Always put ‘em under the screw. As well as those plugs for the pigtail. I don’t always trust those. Always twist em with a pigtail and wire nut them together.. I’ve never seen those outlet spacers either nor had to pull off the tabs unless working with a metal box like a 1900 or so on .
@@joeweatlu5169new nec code does not allow the use of 14 awg wire anymore. Min is 12 for all 15 and 20a circuits.
@@LMB829 not even for lighting circuits?
I don't know if it's code or not, but I was told by an electrician that it isn't good practice to use different gauge wire on the same circuit, even if using 12ga. on an existing 15 A. circuit using 14 ga. wire.
Excellent video, good detail and very well paced. I'd like to see a follow-up video that shows how to do this if the location of the television is above a (gas) fireplace mantle. Ours has two small windows located on the sides of the fireplace, about a foot above the mantle, which means there's only about a foot of horizontal run to use for putting wires through. And then, of course, there's the chimney vent to avoid with the new wiring. Recognizing that there will be differences between models of fireplaces and placements of window, bookshelves, or other features, I'm hoping that there are enough commonalities to make it possible to provide some guidance that would be useful in my (or any similar) situation. Thanks for putting in the time to share your expertise and experience!
Great video. Excellent directions. Only thing I would add is directions on getting romex into the existing box. I’m gonna check out those inserts.
That's all fine and well if they are interior walls. If they're exterior walls with blow-in insulation covered with plastic vapor barrier it gets a whole lot more difficult. It would also be nice if you showed how you fished the wire up into the existing box. I like the technique but in some walls it won't be that easy. I see I'm not the only one with this concern.
(Great video:) Same here. How did you fish the new wire into the existing box? Thanks...
I think it is easier to push the new wire from the existing box into the wall and fish it up to the new outlet hole before installing the new box.
ua-cam.com/video/nWfEANZOYSk/v-deo.htmlsi=vjsvPlQSpHb35Ire
I'm amazed how in the US internal walls are made with studwork and drywall. No wonder they blow over when there's a bit of wind.
Its funny watching those videos as an European. Cardboard homes. Try doing that in here :P
Most Americans OWN their homes, while most Europeans rent.
Do all Americans have hollow walls like this? No wonder shit breaks with every big storm
@@tomcharleville3136 Totally wrong. On average 70% of Europeans own their own home. Just to rub salt into the wound, in the USA as of the 2nd quarter of 2024 the figure is 65.6%. That is less than here in the UK which is 67.1%.
Having grown up in brick homes and now in studs, frames and wallboard I would suggest you think about moving. Cardboard assumption is stupid.
@@zeroblade6599i have lived in both countries. Canadian and U.S houses stands up to bigger storms. Um homes would fall apart in s hurricane and are more permanent damage. I suggest you do proper research.
Excellent. Far better than the other systems I have seen.
The only thing I would do differently is to screw a small piece of scrap wood behind the drywall on the left hand side, so I could screw the drywall and baseboard to it. Just a little better support, because there is no support past the left-hand most stud, which is quite a distance away.
Nice video, this is one of those simple things that I still always wondered how it could be done for the aesthetics of the flat screen mounted television.
Intro: no dry wall cutting.
Proceeds to cut dry wall 😂😂
To be fair he technically said no drywall *repair* and none was required!
Watching this from Sweden and 100% concrete walls like wtf mate? 😂
We build houses out of cardboard and toothpicks over here lol
Make sure you trace the BACK of the box, NOT the front so ears can grab the drywall 😊
Oh man, yeah that would be a bummer. 🤦♂️
Tell that to my dad. I have been slowly correcting all his F ups.
Excellent video. What would you do if there was a fire stop preventing the Romex being passed down the wall?
This kind of detail is what really makes a space come alive. Awesome
Great video, but my wall is a concrete wall 😂
Nice video, but you should put on the title that this only works if you have a house made of cardboard. You can't do anything like this in an european house with brick walls 😂
This only works for walls which are constructed from drywall and not solid construction. This would not work for most accommodation in the UK.
A nice demonstration, but a little quick hooking up your outlets. It seemed like you both had the live wire and neutral on the same screw.
Thanks for the recommendations and I am going to try this
This is a nice project for a DiY homeowner. A few things to remember:
(1) always be careful where you lay your tools. Drill bits can get very hot. If you have carpet and lay the bit down after use, it might melt your carpet or burn your hard wood
(2) this project applies best to interior walls that tend to have empty wall cavities. If your TV is on an outside wall, it will be full of insulation which could make a mess or make fishing the wire in the wall much more difficult.
(3) be sure to watch his other videos that show how to properly install a receptacle. The one he pulled out of the wall was NOT installed to code and should not be used as an example of a properly installed receptacle. He fixed the problems when reinstalling it.
Most people doesn't live in fake cardboard houses 😅
Hahahaha once I saw the cutting tool I had to exi…