Yeah that's a good reason too. I guess I was thinking more of a dc4/ ws field sharpener, skerper pocket, double stuff or 1x4 dmt. But you're right, you could buy any cut down stone as a pocket stone.
Exactly. I've never tried these ceramic stones, so I'm thinking of getting the Pocket Double Stuff to test them out and can also compare the medium and fine versions, so that I know which of the larger ones to buy.
I keep pocket stones in my bag not so much to sharpen my knives at work but to sharpen others. People often say “whoa can you make my knife that sharp?” Yes yes I can.
I use pocket stones when on extended wilderness trips. I found the small Venev dog series stones (0.6x4") to work well for me. They have a lower diamond concentration like the full sized stones, so not the greatest cutting speed but perfect for touchups of the more balanced steels like Cruwear and Magnacut. Weight and price is great too. Hapstone still has them in stock.
Yeah Venev stones are great, I have some of the 3x8" and also 1x6" Venev stones. The only "problem" with resin bonded is that they really require water and also a Nagura stone to perform well. This is very viable for a wilderness trip but not so much for OCD office/warehouse use as you'll be creating slurry and getting things wet.
@@stroppystuff641 For a quick touchup they work ok without water and a Nagura isn't needed for a few weeks. But maybe I am not crazy enough about the results. For sub 20€ and 40g i haven't seen anything better for fine edges yet.
@@xkarlsonx depends on which grit and how much sharpening. If you're talking 400-800 FEPA-F then it will load while sharpening a single side and you'll see great benefit from hitting it with the nagura while sharpening a single blade. The coarser grits don't load nearly as bad. Of course you don't NEED to use the Nagura in order to get an edge, but it certainly performs worse without it
Love the video. Shared experiences and thoughts. I used a Worksharp 220 pocket field sharpener to knock a huge particle off another Worksharp diamond plate. Diamond on diamond action
Thank you, I really appreciate it. Yes, rubbing two plates together isn't a bad idea if you don't want to ruin your knives on brand new, fresh electroplated abrasives. The ones which come with the worksharp field sharpener are actually really good. I got nice clean scratch patterns off them but I don't like the overall package. Plastic guides get in my way and stop me from using a large portion of the abrasive so it feels like I'm working with tiny 1-in plates.
@@stroppystuff641 just to be clear I was pretty careful to focus on just the spot with the boulder of a diamond and not get too crazy. Don’t want to wear out the whole plate. It’s definitely a consistent issue from them though. Their tiny sharpener is crap but the larger field one I actually like. I pop the plates out and hold them like I do the double stuff. Plus I’ve got the ceramic rod and strop right there.
Spyderco doesn't give any grit specifications. How would you say the Double Stuff 2 compares to the DC4/CC4 when it comes to that? I know the Fallkniven ones come pretty coarse but become finer quite quick so mostly interested in how they compare once they've been broken in.
I just buy edge pro 6×1 stones. Rubber band them together and bring them. The selection of 6x1 is massive. I usually just debur on stones but a kangaroo strop in 6x1 is decent. Can use them as bench stones if needed too or in hand. Can also use them on any compatible system. They are massively universal in any situation.
I'm wearing out my KME plates and wondering if I should just buy into a 6x1 system since I need new stones anyway and there's a better selection in 6x1 than 4x1.
@@joshstarkey8883 gritomatic may have 4x1 stones in more selection than just kme brand. I know for a fact they have a bunch also, including bonded diamond stones. I personally prefer table systems like edge pro etc over clamped systems like kme The table system is more versatile in blades it can sharpen because you lay the knife on the table. A clamp system prefers two flat sides. So when you deal with full flat or flat and tapered geometry, the clamp is not perfect and won't always be the right angle when flipped to the other side. The table systems have a lot more technique you can learn to fix certain issues in blades too. There's a lot of tricks professionals have learned that are not posted on youtube and other tutorials. Free hand is ultimately one of the greatest methods. I usually set my angle on my system and after that I use freenhand sharpening. Remove apex, then re form a new one and refine. Minimize bur creation as much as possible when forming that new apex. And debur complete as possible. As a bur is almost never removed completely by 90% of sharpeners including most pro's. Theres methods ive seen by knifegrinders out of New Zealand that can remove the bur better than any human and they use software and a wet grinding wheel system. Should you switch? Thats up to you, I have tried almost every system out there. I'll always choose a 6×1 table system. Currently got a cheap hapstone that works slightly better than the basic edge pro (i have both). I also have a kme that I no longer use. Again I dislike clamped systems overall due to the amount of knives I have and the different geometry each one has, that the table top sharpening systems just work so much better in the variations vs clamping. I will say I haven't tried the newer tfprof double clamp systems. Some of those are too expensive and have unique features that may help, but I'm ultimately not interested over all due to me wasting so much money on a lot of systems that i can't count how many ive tried. And really I'd rather free hand and use the systems just to get the exact angle the first time. Sorry for excessive rambling and no exact answer to the question. I learned a lot of stuff from a guy who does sharpening professionally. Spadeknifeworks on Instagram. He used to do live sharpenings and would share his techniques. So not everyone will have the same experience with the system that I had since I received some knowledge not everyone will learn for that system. Putting that information into a post is impossible. So just know whatever you choose , theres always something to learn on your own or bugging people who do it full time for expert tips if they are willing to share. Its not going to be easy like a system is supposed to make things.
@@tacticalcenter8658 Yeah I've been looking at gritomatic. It's definitely time for me to switch from plates to some kind of bonded diamond, at least for higher grits. I'm getting to the point where the plates don't have the durability or the flatness I want. I have a disability that more heavily affects my left arm, so I'll never be any good with a table system where I have to stabilize the knife entirely with that arm to do one side. I've learned how to set up the clamp on full flat grinds, it's important to get it tight. Sometimes if there's a drastic distal taper (cough cough PM2) I'll wrap a piece of rubber band on the thinner side of the spine so it's solid in the clamp. I see the advantage of a table letting you move the knife around, especially if you have a super curved trailing point etc, but I'd probably have to spin the whole sharpener every time I flipped the blade or something. I do freehand sometimes, especially on machetes and other blades that don't fit or suit the KME well. I either do it entirely right handed, like this video but with the stone on a table, or on big blades I hold onto the spine of the blade with one hand and the handle with the other. That way my right hand can provide most of the stability regardless of which side I'm working on. Thanks for the reply, I don't mind a long response on a complicated topic. I gave Spadeknifeworks a follow. Those are some pretty mirror edges.
@@joshstarkey8883 excellent! Yeah I think you've learned some of the quirks of the kme. Try out the newer stones before switching to a tsprof clamp system or something like that. Save you money for now, especially if its working fine for you currently from what you've described. The table systems do really need to use both arm's and for some that can be a learning curve or impossible depending on disabilities as you've mentioned. True mirrors indeed. Not the fake mirrors you see that when you see in person they are gray and scratchy from most people on insta and yt. Also getting both sides even are a pita when factory grinds are so bad. It also really does help to move the knife when needed on the table to fix issues or larger knives in general.
@@joshstarkey8883 You can get kits to convert the KME to use 6x1 stones. Absolutely upgrade away from 4x1. Either go for a new system or the upgrade kit.
Looking to purchase my first stone to sharpen moras as a novice, my two options are DC4 or original Double Stuff. Which do you recommend? Also why not use the leather cover to stop? Thanks for the demo
Thanks for the comments comparing these to the DC4,, I have a couple of DC4 's. One worn, and one relatively newish, which (tbh) , don't do too bad a job producing a toothy working edge,, Think I'll give the d/s2 a try,, great video btw..
I might dig my DC4s out and do some sharpening on them for a video sometime. The only good thing about them in my opinion is how cheap they are. The Spyderco stuff is around £40-55 vs sub £20 of the Fallkniven and again I don't think it's worth pushing for those ultimate edges on pocket stones anyway so maybe they're not so bad after all.
@@stroppystuff641 just been looking, would I be better off getting a DMT extra extra fine diamond stone, the reviews seem great, and they're reasonably priced,, (I'm on a tight budget,). Any advice, greatly appreciated,, all the best,, John ,,
@@John..18 I don't think double stuff 2 is worth the money. I have no idea why it costs as much as a full size naniwa professional stone. Cbn side is very coarse so i would use it only on damaged blades and fine side loads very quickly and takes a minute to clean. I actually prefer dc4 because it loads a bit slower and the steel build up easily wipes away.
@@SotoJeleb Thanks for the tips, I'm a novice at this, so need all the help I can get, 👍 I'm pretty sure I need diamonds, for my S110v blades, (UKPK and Military) my "worn" DC4 seems to work well, and I'm still "wearing down" the diamond side of my recent DC4, as it seems very aggressive atm,. Thanks for the advice about the d/s2, I'll give it a miss, 👍,,. Would you recommend a DMT xxfine pocket diamond stone ? Or simply stick with my DC4 's till I can afford a "full size" diamond plate? (but again, which one is best.?.. ) Thanks again,, All the best,, John...
@@John..18 It is hard to recommend what you should buy because a lot of it is personal preference. Ds2 isn't a bad stone I just don't think it is worth the money. While other stones cut steels like s110v they do it slowly so you would probably be better of with diamonds. If you don't yet know what kind of edges you like i would recomend to go with a few different grits so you can figure it out maybe a double sided pocket stone from dmt. Xxfine is a very fine abrasive so it will take a long time to sharpen your edges using only that. Also diamonds leave a very rough edge so I think they work better at lower grits. At higher grits you aren't removing much metal so you could use a ceramic stone insted of diamonds even on s110v. So to sum up get different grits so you can figure out if you like a polished edge, a rough edge or a rough edge that is finished with a very fine stone. Different finishes work differently with different steels and different uses. For example on a chef's knife with a very simple steel I prefer a polished edge, on a folder with s90v I prefer to sharpen it on a relatively coarse diamond stone (600 grit dmt fine) and then jump to a ultrafine spyderco rod. Until you know what you are looking for I would recomend less expensive but still quality sharpeners.
You're right I was mostly joking about that and I absolutely use my knife for work and for tasks like that. However if my job was cutting hundreds of items per day like boxes, fabric, carpet, straps etc etc then I wouldn't be using my own blades for that. Utility blades thin geometry will cut much better, the employer will pay for them and you can just swap new blades out in an instant. My folders do mostly get used for this type of work but on a micro scale at home or in the office 🤣
Pocket sharpener for a straight razor?! Man that's not something I can't help with, I think you'd want to have a nice 3x8" stone to get it right for a perfect shave. Sorry I can't help
I feel pocket stone are actually easier to use than full-size stones. I have my Shaptons and Naniwas for kitchen knives, but with pocket knifes, it’s difficult to not to hit the edge of large stones, especially when the stone is slightly dished and my pocket knife has a straight edge.
Yes I tend to agree, however the fine is excellent for deburring so you can get a very nice coarse edge with this setup very fast. Otherwise you have to spend quite a bit of time refining on the fine side. The CBN also wears in quite well with a bit of use.
All of your edges are so crisp I'd feel bad using a pocket stone on one lol. Maybe get your hands on a cheap pre-owned blade for playing with. Also the CBN side starts off MEGA coarse, takes a while for it to bed in.
I use my pocket stones/strops to sharpen for people or when traveling in an airbnb for example where I can't take my knife. Never sharp knives in airbnb!!
Yeah this is true also but I think that falls into the category of being a sharpening fanatic. Lets face it, even a dull section of steel will cut foods for a night or two
You got a great edge off that stone imo. I mean, that's what they are for, getting a working sharp edge again when you're away from your main sharpening stuff.
I usually lay these down flat.. edge of a counter, maybe on top of a little thing, even a smaller stone holder if you have one, or also with something to create friction so it doesn't slide, then I just use it like a mini whetstone. Zero issues getting the same results as the big stones. In fact I find I like it better for smaller and edc knives. 1" x 4" is fine, I've used even smaller ones than that. No issue at all getting the same results as you do on the 3" x 8" stones. Relative to a 240 mm kitchen knife on the larger stone, I mean it's about the same as a little 3" edc on these. Anyway. Using it in hand like that, IDK. I don't think I could get the same results. I'm sure if you work at it that way you could get fine results that way. I'm just used to doing it with the stone on a stable and steady flat surface and with two hands on the blade.
Putting it on the edge of the table is a good idea but for me when I sharpen like that I like to switch hands rather than change the direction the knife is facing, which is funny because I keep it in the same hand when I sharpen like I did in the video
If your not using your knife for work then it's more likely you dont even need to sharpen. People that only use there knives for opening packages only need to stpp and sharpen once a yr.
It was not a comment to be taken seriously. However I wouldn't personally use my own money on tools to benefit my employer unless I got sufficient enjoyment from it.
I sometimes buy “pocket stones” because it allows you to try a stone before forking over the money for the full size one (if you sharpen freehand).
Yeah that's a good reason too. I guess I was thinking more of a dc4/ ws field sharpener, skerper pocket, double stuff or 1x4 dmt. But you're right, you could buy any cut down stone as a pocket stone.
Exactly. I've never tried these ceramic stones, so I'm thinking of getting the Pocket Double Stuff to test them out and can also compare the medium and fine versions, so that I know which of the larger ones to buy.
I keep pocket stones in my bag not so much to sharpen my knives at work but to sharpen others. People often say “whoa can you make my knife that sharp?” Yes yes I can.
I use pocket stones when on extended wilderness trips. I found the small Venev dog series stones (0.6x4") to work well for me. They have a lower diamond concentration like the full sized stones, so not the greatest cutting speed but perfect for touchups of the more balanced steels like Cruwear and Magnacut. Weight and price is great too. Hapstone still has them in stock.
Yeah Venev stones are great, I have some of the 3x8" and also 1x6" Venev stones. The only "problem" with resin bonded is that they really require water and also a Nagura stone to perform well. This is very viable for a wilderness trip but not so much for OCD office/warehouse use as you'll be creating slurry and getting things wet.
@@stroppystuff641 For a quick touchup they work ok without water and a Nagura isn't needed for a few weeks. But maybe I am not crazy enough about the results. For sub 20€ and 40g i haven't seen anything better for fine edges yet.
@@xkarlsonx depends on which grit and how much sharpening. If you're talking 400-800 FEPA-F then it will load while sharpening a single side and you'll see great benefit from hitting it with the nagura while sharpening a single blade. The coarser grits don't load nearly as bad. Of course you don't NEED to use the Nagura in order to get an edge, but it certainly performs worse without it
I’ve been using pocket stones for over a decade.
Frankly, once you get used to it, it’s as easy as anything.
Love the video. Shared experiences and thoughts. I used a Worksharp 220 pocket field sharpener to knock a huge particle off another Worksharp diamond plate. Diamond on diamond action
Thank you, I really appreciate it. Yes, rubbing two plates together isn't a bad idea if you don't want to ruin your knives on brand new, fresh electroplated abrasives. The ones which come with the worksharp field sharpener are actually really good. I got nice clean scratch patterns off them but I don't like the overall package. Plastic guides get in my way and stop me from using a large portion of the abrasive so it feels like I'm working with tiny 1-in plates.
@@stroppystuff641 just to be clear I was pretty careful to focus on just the spot with the boulder of a diamond and not get too crazy. Don’t want to wear out the whole plate. It’s definitely a consistent issue from them though.
Their tiny sharpener is crap but the larger field one I actually like. I pop the plates out and hold them like I do the double stuff. Plus I’ve got the ceramic rod and strop right there.
Spyderco doesn't give any grit specifications. How would you say the Double Stuff 2 compares to the DC4/CC4 when it comes to that? I know the Fallkniven ones come pretty coarse but become finer quite quick so mostly interested in how they compare once they've been broken in.
I just buy edge pro 6×1 stones. Rubber band them together and bring them. The selection of 6x1 is massive. I usually just debur on stones but a kangaroo strop in 6x1 is decent.
Can use them as bench stones if needed too or in hand. Can also use them on any compatible system. They are massively universal in any situation.
I'm wearing out my KME plates and wondering if I should just buy into a 6x1 system since I need new stones anyway and there's a better selection in 6x1 than 4x1.
@@joshstarkey8883 gritomatic may have 4x1 stones in more selection than just kme brand. I know for a fact they have a bunch also, including bonded diamond stones. I personally prefer table systems like edge pro etc over clamped systems like kme
The table system is more versatile in blades it can sharpen because you lay the knife on the table. A clamp system prefers two flat sides. So when you deal with full flat or flat and tapered geometry, the clamp is not perfect and won't always be the right angle when flipped to the other side. The table systems have a lot more technique you can learn to fix certain issues in blades too. There's a lot of tricks professionals have learned that are not posted on youtube and other tutorials.
Free hand is ultimately one of the greatest methods. I usually set my angle on my system and after that I use freenhand sharpening. Remove apex, then re form a new one and refine. Minimize bur creation as much as possible when forming that new apex. And debur complete as possible. As a bur is almost never removed completely by 90% of sharpeners including most pro's. Theres methods ive seen by knifegrinders out of New Zealand that can remove the bur better than any human and they use software and a wet grinding wheel system.
Should you switch? Thats up to you, I have tried almost every system out there. I'll always choose a 6×1 table system. Currently got a cheap hapstone that works slightly better than the basic edge pro (i have both). I also have a kme that I no longer use. Again I dislike clamped systems overall due to the amount of knives I have and the different geometry each one has, that the table top sharpening systems just work so much better in the variations vs clamping. I will say I haven't tried the newer tfprof double clamp systems. Some of those are too expensive and have unique features that may help, but I'm ultimately not interested over all due to me wasting so much money on a lot of systems that i can't count how many ive tried. And really I'd rather free hand and use the systems just to get the exact angle the first time.
Sorry for excessive rambling and no exact answer to the question. I learned a lot of stuff from a guy who does sharpening professionally. Spadeknifeworks on Instagram. He used to do live sharpenings and would share his techniques. So not everyone will have the same experience with the system that I had since I received some knowledge not everyone will learn for that system. Putting that information into a post is impossible. So just know whatever you choose , theres always something to learn on your own or bugging people who do it full time for expert tips if they are willing to share. Its not going to be easy like a system is supposed to make things.
@@tacticalcenter8658 Yeah I've been looking at gritomatic. It's definitely time for me to switch from plates to some kind of bonded diamond, at least for higher grits. I'm getting to the point where the plates don't have the durability or the flatness I want.
I have a disability that more heavily affects my left arm, so I'll never be any good with a table system where I have to stabilize the knife entirely with that arm to do one side. I've learned how to set up the clamp on full flat grinds, it's important to get it tight. Sometimes if there's a drastic distal taper (cough cough PM2) I'll wrap a piece of rubber band on the thinner side of the spine so it's solid in the clamp. I see the advantage of a table letting you move the knife around, especially if you have a super curved trailing point etc, but I'd probably have to spin the whole sharpener every time I flipped the blade or something.
I do freehand sometimes, especially on machetes and other blades that don't fit or suit the KME well. I either do it entirely right handed, like this video but with the stone on a table, or on big blades I hold onto the spine of the blade with one hand and the handle with the other. That way my right hand can provide most of the stability regardless of which side I'm working on.
Thanks for the reply, I don't mind a long response on a complicated topic. I gave Spadeknifeworks a follow. Those are some pretty mirror edges.
@@joshstarkey8883 excellent! Yeah I think you've learned some of the quirks of the kme. Try out the newer stones before switching to a tsprof clamp system or something like that. Save you money for now, especially if its working fine for you currently from what you've described.
The table systems do really need to use both arm's and for some that can be a learning curve or impossible depending on disabilities as you've mentioned.
True mirrors indeed. Not the fake mirrors you see that when you see in person they are gray and scratchy from most people on insta and yt. Also getting both sides even are a pita when factory grinds are so bad.
It also really does help to move the knife when needed on the table to fix issues or larger knives in general.
@@joshstarkey8883 You can get kits to convert the KME to use 6x1 stones. Absolutely upgrade away from 4x1. Either go for a new system or the upgrade kit.
Looking to purchase my first stone to sharpen moras as a novice, my two options are DC4 or original Double Stuff.
Which do you recommend? Also why not use the leather cover to stop?
Thanks for the demo
Would you be able to do a video on the light technique for checking the burr? Thanks!
Sure thing 👍I'll do one soon
I live in a van and am looking for a small stone to sharpen my Opinel no.8 (my only kitchen knife). This could be the perfect one. Thank you
The CBN starts out super coarse, but once It beds in it's great
Thanks for the comments comparing these to the DC4,,
I have a couple of
DC4 's. One worn, and one relatively newish, which (tbh) , don't do too bad a job producing a toothy working edge,,
Think I'll give the d/s2 a try,, great video btw..
I might dig my DC4s out and do some sharpening on them for a video sometime. The only good thing about them in my opinion is how cheap they are. The Spyderco stuff is around £40-55 vs sub £20 of the Fallkniven and again I don't think it's worth pushing for those ultimate edges on pocket stones anyway so maybe they're not so bad after all.
@@stroppystuff641 just been looking, would I be better off getting a DMT extra extra fine diamond stone, the reviews seem great, and they're reasonably priced,, (I'm on a tight budget,). Any advice, greatly appreciated,, all the best,, John ,,
@@John..18 I don't think double stuff 2 is worth the money. I have no idea why it costs as much as a full size naniwa professional stone. Cbn side is very coarse so i would use it only on damaged blades and fine side loads very quickly and takes a minute to clean. I actually prefer dc4 because it loads a bit slower and the steel build up easily wipes away.
@@SotoJeleb
Thanks for the tips, I'm a novice at this, so need all the help I can get, 👍
I'm pretty sure I need diamonds, for my S110v blades, (UKPK and Military) my "worn" DC4 seems to work well, and I'm still "wearing down" the diamond side of my recent DC4, as it seems very aggressive atm,.
Thanks for the advice about the d/s2, I'll give it a miss, 👍,,. Would you recommend a DMT xxfine pocket diamond stone ? Or simply stick with my DC4 's till I can afford a "full size" diamond plate?
(but again, which one is best.?.. )
Thanks again,,
All the best,, John...
@@John..18 It is hard to recommend what you should buy because a lot of it is personal preference. Ds2 isn't a bad stone I just don't think it is worth the money.
While other stones cut steels like s110v they do it slowly so you would probably be better of with diamonds. If you don't yet know what kind of edges you like i would recomend to go with a few different grits so you can figure it out maybe a double sided pocket stone from dmt.
Xxfine is a very fine abrasive so it will take a long time to sharpen your edges using only that. Also diamonds leave a very rough edge so I think they work better at lower grits. At higher grits you aren't removing much metal so you could use a ceramic stone insted of diamonds even on s110v.
So to sum up get different grits so you can figure out if you like a polished edge, a rough edge or a rough edge that is finished with a very fine stone. Different finishes work differently with different steels and different uses. For example on a chef's knife with a very simple steel I prefer a polished edge, on a folder with s90v I prefer to sharpen it on a relatively coarse diamond stone (600 grit dmt fine) and then jump to a ultrafine spyderco rod. Until you know what you are looking for I would recomend less expensive but still quality sharpeners.
Pocket stones for hunting brotha. Makes a ton of sense.
They are really good for things like secateurs and loppers. Axes too.
I know you were jesting about using knives at jobs etc. If you find the idea odd, where do you use your knives? Great video!
You're right I was mostly joking about that and I absolutely use my knife for work and for tasks like that. However if my job was cutting hundreds of items per day like boxes, fabric, carpet, straps etc etc then I wouldn't be using my own blades for that. Utility blades thin geometry will cut much better, the employer will pay for them and you can just swap new blades out in an instant. My folders do mostly get used for this type of work but on a micro scale at home or in the office 🤣
@@stroppystuff641 Roger that! Cheers!
If you want to knock off the large particle near the ends try working from the middle of the stone toward the end.
What is the best pocket sharpener for a straight razor? Thanks
Pocket sharpener for a straight razor?! Man that's not something I can't help with, I think you'd want to have a nice 3x8" stone to get it right for a perfect shave. Sorry I can't help
I feel pocket stone are actually easier to use than full-size stones. I have my Shaptons and Naniwas for kitchen knives, but with pocket knifes, it’s difficult to not to hit the edge of large stones, especially when the stone is slightly dished and my pocket knife has a straight edge.
You must have good coordination then! You should also certainly flatten your bench stones if the dish is that noticeable.
Is it better than fallkniven CC4?
The ceramic is much nicer to use yesterday. However the CBN is very coarse. I like it, but it depends what you're looking for.
I wish they paired the cbn with a medium spyderco. Straight to the fine is too big of a jump in progression IMHO.
Yes I tend to agree, however the fine is excellent for deburring so you can get a very nice coarse edge with this setup very fast. Otherwise you have to spend quite a bit of time refining on the fine side. The CBN also wears in quite well with a bit of use.
I want to get one of these once I have the funds.
All of your edges are so crisp I'd feel bad using a pocket stone on one lol. Maybe get your hands on a cheap pre-owned blade for playing with. Also the CBN side starts off MEGA coarse, takes a while for it to bed in.
I use my pocket stones/strops to sharpen for people or when traveling in an airbnb for example where I can't take my knife. Never sharp knives in airbnb!!
worst knives I ever saw were at a home where they rented out some rooms through airbnb. 1mm thick at the edge
Yeah this is true also but I think that falls into the category of being a sharpening fanatic. Lets face it, even a dull section of steel will cut foods for a night or two
You got a great edge off that stone imo. I mean, that's what they are for, getting a working sharp edge again when you're away from your main sharpening stuff.
Very true!
I usually lay these down flat.. edge of a counter, maybe on top of a little thing, even a smaller stone holder if you have one, or also with something to create friction so it doesn't slide, then I just use it like a mini whetstone. Zero issues getting the same results as the big stones. In fact I find I like it better for smaller and edc knives. 1" x 4" is fine, I've used even smaller ones than that. No issue at all getting the same results as you do on the 3" x 8" stones. Relative to a 240 mm kitchen knife on the larger stone, I mean it's about the same as a little 3" edc on these. Anyway. Using it in hand like that, IDK. I don't think I could get the same results. I'm sure if you work at it that way you could get fine results that way. I'm just used to doing it with the stone on a stable and steady flat surface and with two hands on the blade.
Putting it on the edge of the table is a good idea but for me when I sharpen like that I like to switch hands rather than change the direction the knife is facing, which is funny because I keep it in the same hand when I sharpen like I did in the video
Those are good to carry with you, not meant for home use although you could.
Yeah I realise they're pocket stones 👍
Personally I take it because there is always that coworker that has a blunt edge and needs a tuneup 😉
Why do us knife guys always seem to have a plaster on one finger or the other!?😂
Play with matches, get burnt. Play with knifes, get cut.
I know 😂 I can't even remember how I cut myself, I think I was making strops and the utility blade bit me
Why not get stroppystuff 9um and 1um on some basswood and you are set😂
If your not using your knife for work then it's more likely you dont even need to sharpen. People that only use there knives for opening packages only need to stpp and sharpen once a yr.
It was not a comment to be taken seriously. However I wouldn't personally use my own money on tools to benefit my employer unless I got sufficient enjoyment from it.
кромка просто очевидно завалена и видна линза....
That stone design is begging for slight slip up and nasty cut.