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Bondo is designed to be used on bare timber only. I’m not sure about oil based paint, but if you use it over acrylic/latex paints the chemicals will react with the paint and the Bondo won’t set properly.I believe it’s the hydrogen peroxide, but I’m not certain of that. Do a same comparison with ‘new installed’ (not primed) baseboards and I think you’ll find a very different result.
This strictly relates to home use, not automotive use, as automotive paint systems can be quite different, before someone chimes in, rebutting my statement.
Thank you for all of these tips and tricks!! LOVE your channel. Now I can get to all those "little" fixes that seemed so confusing. The video about what material to use on a staircase answered a question I have had for a while. Short answer: I'm going to leave my carpet. 😁👍🏻 Keep it up!! Excited to see what you post next.
The bondo you used is a 2nd stage bondo, it's meant to be used for micro abrasions in other words after using the bondo that is used for car dents the one with the hardener paste which dries in 15 minutes if mixed at the correct ration once you sand this you leave sanding marks you would then use the glazing bondo, that red paste that you used wrongly in the 1st place, to fill the sanding marks then you would sand with a finer grit to achieve a higher quality finish not everybody likes sanding marks on a glass smooth surface
@@Nathanation88 i have experience with it in automotive and carpentry and it will work just fine over latex/acrylic or oil you just need too use the two part were you mix the harder in yourself and make sure you ruff up the area were your using it so it gets a good bond. The spot putty he is using is for small imperfections such as feeling in deep scratches but you are right it works on bare wood the best
I only use wood filler for trim repairs. It is harder to sand but it leaves a durable repair. Drydex will crumble out with the slightest tap from a broom. As for the shrinkage in nails, it's all in how its applied. Putty knife works better. You need to really force it in so that it kind of bulges out after and leaves it slightly overfilled. 2 part bondo for only the largest repairs. Nobody wants their house to smell like that all day.
I may have to remake this video and call it: Guy that thought he Knew EVERYTHING- read his UA-cam Comments- only to find out he was kinda Dumb...May need to shorten that a bit:)
LOL, I was just about to leave a comment: You, the Vancouver Carpenter, would not recommend Drydex for this type of repair because I just finished watching your video before this one. LOVE YOU and love your channel!
Same. I use wood filler. Had to redo our livingroom, as I could see every hole. I think they used silicone though. Took longer, but I can't see any holes after one year. I'd probably only use Bondo only for really bad damage, but then I'd consider replacing the baseboard. Also, I'm not a contractor, so not rushing to get to the next job. Really enjoying both of your channels.
20 years of using real Bondo with hardener, no shrinkage and it dries faster than I can apply it. never need second coat . Sanding takes more time but its way stronger.
@@krissymichele bondo would work great . Just get some quality bondo ( not bondo brand from home dumpo) Ready patch would also work ok but not as strong
Pro cabinet maker here. I've done my own installs and touch ups for 10 years. The glazing putty goes on like butter and has super fast dry time when applied in small amounts, so it's tempting... But it's shrinkage is so great that it's not well suited for this application. I am still trying to find a use for it in my wood working or painting routines. A lot of people on this thread are recommending 2 part fillers. Once I found MH Ready Patch I very rarely use any other spackle or wood filler on painted products. It is much harder than other putties or spackles. Not as hard as Bondo, but that's good. Bondo is normally harder than wood and will potentially be difficult to sand flat because of that. MH Ready Patch has fantastic adhesion, minimal skrinkage, good dry time, spreads smooth, interior exterior, and it's a similar hardness as hardwoods so you are unlikely to have the issue you had with the DAP where it sands easier than the wood and becomes uneven very easily. The 2 parts still have their place if you need a big gap to dry super fast. But that's about it. MH Ready Patch is the best 1 part spackle paste I've ever used. And it sands like a dream
Agree. I've found it to be the best performing filler for outdoor use, primarily for nail holes, and minor surface damage. When you're climbing up and down a ladder or scaffold, 2 parts are not convenient, and other spackles don't have the durability.
Is it better to prime (previously painted) trim before using the MH Ready Patch? In other words, Does it adhere better to recently-primed wood, or is it just as good to apply it to previously-painted, newly sanded wood? Thanks!!
@@Avital4414 hmmm..... Well it won't stick well to glossy areas, just like any other paint or primer. Better safe than sorry. If you are gonna put it on a previously painted area, just scuff the painted area up with some sandpaper first. But it will stick to primer and raw wood super easy with no prep work needed.
@@MaydaysCustomWoodworks sorry I wasn’t clear. I thoroughly sanded already so no concern about adhesion. My question is whether it would be better to apply the ready patch over freshly primed trim, or to the deglossed but not yet re-primed surface. Thanks!
I use the Bondo putty that requires catalyst hardener. Comes in a can withe a tube of cream hardener. Especially for larger/deep defects and to build up areas that have missing material. Can’t beat it. The Bondo spot putty you used shrinks terribly. For nail holes and small defects, it’s hard to beat Drydex. Also have used Bondo with Fiberglas strands all ready mixed in to replace large areas of rotten wood on window frames and it lasted for nearly 10 years. Thanks for the video.
Quick note about the bondo. That kind you used is for very very minor imperfections, like pinholes. That glazing putty is a single part (no resin in it) and it is known to shrink. There are better two part glazing putties that fill in deeper imperfections better. They also won't bleed through as they are gray.
I've always had great results with Bondo on difficult corners in high traffic areas. After I watched this video I decided I'd use the Elmer's wood filler tested in this video (winner) on stair risers in the corners. EVERY one cracked within a month. I had to use a multi-tool to clean all of the wood filler out and replace. Since they were inside corners, I decided to use Big Stretch and repainted. A bit messy and difficult, but so far, so good. BUT, my mitered corners on the large plywood panels of our kitchen island filled with bondo and sanded to an eased edge are perfect 3 years on.
@@kimberHD45 yes I’m doing that right now I’m repairing exterior window trim holes from woodpeckers and the bondo puddy works great, I filled majority of the holes with gaps and cracks filled then went over it with bondo looks great!
If you use spackle out of a "tub", you can mix a little bit of chalkline chalk into it so that you can see where it is after it has dried. A few times I've missed sanding off some before painting (as it was white, or turned white), and having it have a bit of colour lets you easily find them to sand smooth.
@@ian9toes Not really. Only a small pinhole of colour the size of the brad or nail is showing after sanding, and even one coat of trim paint is enough to cover this. Even in larger spots, one or two coats of trim paint will pretty much hide anything.
@@ian9toes It'd depend on the color you're using. Chalk line comes primarily in blue, yellow, and red. So you can use a chalk that follows the hues of the paint you're going to use. Yellow with the tans, greens, and whites, red with the reds/browns/pinks, and obviously blue with the blues/purples. And remember, you DONT need much. Add pinches of it until it's tinted. You're not trying to make blue spackle.
I absolutely LOVE DryDex in the tub! It was so easy to work with and apply and you can dry OR wet sand it! For wood like that, like baseboard trim and surfaces that will get banged with a broom, I love Durham's rock hard water putty!
What I've been doing for small filler job is using Spackle mixing with tiny amount of wood glue. It's much stronger than Spackle itself and works like a charm especially on the corner edge of wall or trim.
I've been using the wood filler with good results. It's a bit harder to sand, but you can resolve that by not slapping on too much. Works great and pretty durable. And.. it comes in white or whatever color your are working with.
Dynapatch is a nice in-between bondo and spackling. You used to have to go to paint shops for it but now home depot carries it. It dries between 10 and 30 minutes and gives a very hard finish
Interesting conclusion. All 3 have their place in trim and cabinetry. Typically I use drydex on nail holes and very very minimal open mitres. Obviously wood filler is the only option for stain grade. But for larger joints like doing flush window sills or exterior wood trim that's paint grade, definitely use a two-part bondo. Much better at resisting cracking. If I use bondo indoors, I typically run it as the base coat and then finish coat with drydex to get that nice finish.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter As a a 40+ year professional painter I think the 2 part bondo is going to be the most durable on your baseboards, considering bangs from vacuums, and the occasional tooth. I may be mistaken but it looked like the bondo you used was a lacquer putty, meant to be used for very fine scratches after sanding the 2 part bondo. I use it on painted cabinet doors for fine scratches.
Probably the best solution for deep fill areas would be one of the fillers, followed by the dridex. the filler for the bulk fill, and dridex to even it out. When you do Bondo on a car repair, you apply the filler and sand it smooth, then apply a glaze over it, before the final sanding, and then apply the paint.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter And, thinking on it overnight: I think you used the glaze for body work and not Bondo. Bondo is a two part catalyzing paste, which cures out in less than fifteen minutes at room temperature if you have the proportion of the two components right. I’m pretty sure using actual catalyzing Bondo would have different results.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Checking on it, you were using one of the “Bondo” glazes, instead of the Bondo. Intended to go over Bondo after you get it smooth to the surface.
The bondo works if you know how to apply it as you said. You need to push the bondo in and wipe it clean for less sanding. Normally doesn't need a second coat.
I’ve been using “plastic wood” to fill cracks and holes. Works really good and it’s water based so you can thin it down a little with water if you need to.
I think the ‘toxicity’ of the ‘Bondo’ product also might have a bearing here. I am purposely trying not to invest my money into any products/services that do harm to people or environment. I am always looking for the least harmful products. I’d rather invest in the products/services of innovative companies that are looking at alternatives which is why I am constantly researching for new products. They are constantly changing - like new software updates.
I had a cat that used to use his claws on all our trim work. I think I can sand some of them out but some I had to replace, and some will require patching. This video is perfect, thank you.
Thank you for a very helpful video! I'll be able to use your results on my current project. What product would be best for building up missing areas on a curved piece of wood trim? I have a scooped-out area on an outward curve on a piece of chair rail that I have to rebuild. The chair rail will be affixed to window trim. The trim won't (theoretically) be subjected to any touching or impacts, but you never know. Also, I know it's too late for this video, but if you ever do a comparison video again, here are a couple of suggestions. * Do the same type of damage on all three pieces, so the comparisons will be apples to apples. Try to make the same problems in the same locations on each piece. * Do several types of damage on all three pieces: deep gouges, scratches, small holes, big holes, and so on. * Label each board in big letters with the product used for repair, so if we miss what you're saying, we can still read which product was used on that board. * After all repairs are completed, show the "before and after" images of each piece on its own screen, side-to-side, like "Bondo before and after," "wood filler before and after," and "Spackle before and after." I had problems seeing where the damage was on each piece in the "after" pictures" because I didn't know where to look. Thank you again!
I loved watching the dog! Our terrier would sit at the floor-to-ceiling windows and watch birds and chew the window sills. We didn't want to replace all the trim so we sanded them out and now have oval window sills.
Use green Bondo from from an automotive store. Mix it yourself and mix it hot. It will be dry and ready for sanding in 30 minutes. I have done this thousands of times and fixed major damage as well as saved some custom trim from having to be torn out. I don't use it to fill nail holes as that is a job for spackle. Bondo also will not be damaged as easily as the wood filler.
@@charlespannier5389 I have never had any trouble with it, I start with 80 grit sandpaper to rough it. I also try to match it close to what is there. Bondo doesn't shrink much. It also paints great.
That’s cause it’s not what they use they would use a 2 part bondo that doesn’t shrink and dries in like 15 minutes. What you used is for small cracks in bondo
I think you’re correct, that red stuff called glazing compound by the automotive finish folks. For filling small imperfections in the polyester bondo before priming. It’s quite soft compared to bondo.
Yeah the Bondo is putty used for holes which is used for real body filler(bondo) just before priming. Bondo is term used loosely with two part body filler that has a hardner. In general there are premium grade fillers that dry and sand within a minute. Evercoat is a good brand which makes a product called Rage and Rage gold. I’ve used both and the gold spreads very smooth and sands smooth without the pin holes and has very little shrinkage.
Thanks for this. I have some baseboard repairs to handle myself and was just going to use drydex all around. I'll grab a tube of the wood filler for heavier dents and corners.
I’ve used a variety of products on my home trim projects (2 part Bondo wood filler, Bondo spotting and glazing putty, MH patch, drydex, wood glue, etc). Some of the less noxious products are less stinky because they are water based “clays” essentially. Water based products (drydex, elmers wood filler, etc) are difficult to get in to fine imperfections. It’s probably due to the particle Size in the mixture and the surface tension of the water base. Water based products can however be easily cleaned up with a wet rag. Products like 2 part Bondo and Spotting and glazing putty are non water based. They spread much more easily in shallow imperfections and they tend to sand down to more of a automobile like finish. They do not clean up with water though! The red putty you used is great for very fine imperfections (scratches, minor nicks, tear out, etc).
You are becoming one of my favorite people to watch on UA-cam. Please continue on! Your comparison/review videos like this are super helpful to see and just to hear from someone with experience and honesty
I like using wood filler when installing trim. Brown pops out so you don’t accidentally forget to sand a spot and paint over it, creating a pita fix. I also hit holes with a spray can of primer then paint an hour later
I use 20 minute light sheetrock mud to fill nail holes in paint grade trim. sticks well, drys fast, doesn't shrink, sand able if neccessary. Elmer's wood filler for exterior nail fill..
Very helpful. I have exactly these types of repairs to do and have both the Drydex Spackle and the Elmer's Wood Filler, and now I know their benefits and differences and therefore which one to use when. Thank you!!
Great video and a lot of knowledge in the comments! Great to read so many options out there. I guess different situations call for different solutions. I personally use MH ready patch quite often. I also use Bondo with the cream hardner for larger interior repairs. I’ll go to Bondo glass with cream hardner for larger exterior repairs using a wood hardener first if there’s rotting. The wood epoxy is great if you really need to easily mold and shape, but so expensive! Thanks for the video and to all those who commented!
I have straight edge skirting and to save time and money long term, I placed Aluminum corners on every corner, I went this way as it's the easiest to work with and gives a neat edge on the cut with minimum work. Once selling I take the edges off and the skirting looks like new, I use a little Silicon to keep them in place. If skirtings were made from hard wood we wouldn't have so many issues in the first place :) Good video as usual :)
I like the spackle because i can use a wet/damp sponge immediately and get a paintable finish. Wood filler I mix some water with it, to make it more malleable and finish with wet sponge. I’ve never used bondo though.. Great video 👍
I'm getting a tube of wood filler! My baseboard is on bullnose corners and sections that are about an inch long, now I think I can do this! Thanks. Now to watch the sanding block vid.
Yeah... as soon as I saw the ‘shape + size’ of that sanding block, I knew why it would be more advantageous to others... and I haven’t even seen that video yet... curious to see if I hit the ‘marks’. 😉
That’s glazing putty, which is used after the 2 part bondo system. It’s very good at filling light scratches or tiny imperfections. Used often when getting a car body ready for primer. I wouldn’t use it for trim. Good conclusion.
Agreed! The Bondo spot putty is for micro fine scratches and imperfections and not intended for any build up. Applied to scratches, it dries ready to sand within 10 to 20 minutes. If you want to fill cracks and dents with Bondo, you need to mix the 2-part automotive filler which can also be sanded and shaped within 20 minutes. Mixing the 2-part system has limited working time and is a pain, but it's bullet proof.
MH Ready is great as other have commented. Find often best to apply with a putty knife. Can "slick" it with water to make it apply smoother or help with contouring. Very easy to apply and sand. Also doesn't telegraph through finish like some other fillers do.
I use setting compound for really bad repairs and then go over it with lightweight joint compound. Once it's primed and painted it holds up well. I use these in rentals that are used and abused and haven't had any issues.
An application where bondo beats all the others is removing a door then filling the mortices and the borehole on the jamb. The others will not dry and crumble. The Bondo will make it look like there never was a door there. The dry time is also unbeatable, and you can have it painted in under an hour. I always carry a gallon of all-purpose Bondo putty, its $25 at the home despot and im like Jesus to my clients when i use it.
Thanks for your down to earth approach to your reviews. Easy to follow for any home repair person. I haven’t tried wood filler on baseboards but will give it a go.
Automotive type bondo with hardener works like a champ and can be sanded pretty soon after application. Pretty sure you could have applied two coats and the paint in the time it took for the tube stuff to dry. You missed the cost part of each which also drives choice.
I have some old crappy plywood I'm turning into the front (most visible) part of a piece of furniture, seriously considering coating the whole thing in Sheetrock 90.
I used bondo where my concrete board around my tub met the drywall rather than drywall mud because it is impervious to water, but when I went to paint it I found that latex paint won't stick to it even with a primer, so I mixed a very thin coat of elmer's glue up and used that as primer and it has worked well since.
@@MoneyManHolmes Yes of course I tiled it All I was saying is where the transition between the concrete board and the drywall is I used Bondo for the drywall mud which feathered out 4 in or so past were the tile ended. The biggest exposure of the Bondo was along the tub below the tile where the drywall meets the tub but there is no tile down there below the step in edge
When you clear quarters in the army before you move, housing always makes you fill nail holes with toothpaste. I'm shocked you haven't reviewed this highly professional practice.
@@MD-eo2wy not outdoors, but neither does well wet, though bondo tends to do a bit better. Durham's is a bit of a learning curve. Im increasingly using modern products. Wood epoxy is ideal but not something most keep around
The thing to do for bondo is to use woodfill on top of the bondo. The bondo will become super hard and not fall out over time, whereas just wood fill alone will more often fall out on big repairs over time.
Bondo is the final coat after you fill the defects with wood filler or drydex. Bondo gives you a super strong finish with the smoothness of a glass finish.
For nail holes and small stuff, I also use spackling. However, the "bondo" you used isn't really a true two part bondo. A two part bondo is great at filling big gaps, and is way tougher than a water/alcohol based product. Bondo really bonds to whatever surface you're repairing, and is not prone to denting or other damage.
I buy Bondo Finishing wood filler, which is a polyethylene/polyester resin product, combined with pumice, talc and a few other fillers which make it really nice in terms of sanding. The set time is way better than whatever crap you used... 5-10 minute max. Get it at any big box store in gallon buckets.
Cool comparison video. I use fast dry spackle then bondo for a quick and near perfect finish. The Bondo brand glazing putty dries fast and sands smooth as glass with a sponge block.
If your getting body filler right out of a tube like that its likely "spot putty" and intended for pin holes, not for what your expecting it to do. Get some real two part body filler out of a can with a hardener and you will not get shrinkage and dry time is fast.
Great advice like always. These videos remind me of this one time when I went to a "Comedy defensive driving class" for driving way to slow 😉, I don't remember the comedy part . I like watching them for the great tips and honestly it's like being on a mellow high, just kick back and enjoy the colors . Honestly i really do like watching your videos.
Downside with regular (body filler, not "glazing putty" as shown in the video) Bondo is that it starts to set in 5 minutes or so, so if you have a bunch of nail holes to fill, you have to hustle, and it's really overkill for nail holes. I use body filler Bondo if I'm moving a hinge and need to repair a door jamb or fill a lock strike location or other large repair area. Spackle for the nail holes.
probably already mentioned, but that "bondo" is actually a skim coat design to adhere to bondo. Depending on the wood type, i'd worry about adhesion. And I don't know the numbers labelled, but with that non-catalyzed stuff, you'll maybe get 1/16th of an inch out of it before it becomes susceptible to dehiscence. ESPECIALLY without a 2 pack paint on top.
MH Ready Patch is good for this. I use Bondo All Purpose (different from the one you use) for large jobs but it's amazing to work with. You can shape it to however you want.
From my experience the bondo is the best way too go. You can shape it and mold it too match any type of repair your doing. I have repaired major wood damage with it and you cant even tell the difference you just need too use the 2 part were you mix the harder in yourself that way you can control how fast it dries. The spot putty is used mainly for small imperfections. You can actually paint it in under 30 minutes if done properly and. You can find it at any auto parts store just remember a little harder goes a long ways you will also need too ruff up the surface your applying it too so you get a good bond or it will peel right off when sanding and the secret too sanding it is too sand most of it down before it gets too hard with an 80 grit sandpaper and then do a final sand after it has finished setting up with 120 grit the only down side is you do need too put a light coat of primer over it before you paint or you will get a red tent that bleeds threw unless your putting on 2 coats of paint then you usually don't have too prime the second coat usually covers the redness just fine
First, thank you! I was doubting my purchase for wood filler after seeing a video about “how great bondo wood fillers were” for my trim, and am glad I watched this video Probably a silly question 😅 but what kind of “painters sanding sponge” do I need for filling in the nail holes and any other areas where the boards meet? What grit? Any recommendations is welcome
I am a custom cabinet maker. Bondo all day for paint grade-nothing beats it-it never shows but you have to mix the hardener yourself into the bondo with a specific ratio.
Can you do video how to fill nail holes in pvc trim and pvc joints, pvc joint with wood door frame. I know Canada doesn’t have termite but in Florida it’s a big concern. If you do a video I will recommend you to a neighbor ❤
That bondo is a glazing putty. It’s not good for anything deep, it just continues to shrink. It’s great at getting into shallow dents/scratches that other fillers might have a hard time skimming without wiping the filler out in the process. I use wood filler for nail holes, etc. then sand, and skim it with the bondo. It dries super fast and won’t shrink when applied in thin coats. Can’t fill anything deeper than a c hair. I’m a millwork finisher and I use it on the daily, it’s good stuff when used properly
I use Bondo for the right application/situation. it definitely takes a little bit more work to get it looking right but it's super durable. Nice upload funny guy 👍
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I use Bondo in a can ya know the stuff for cars so I can add the hardener myself. I'll use it on odd repair jobs, for example most recently I used it to repair window grid that a cat destroyed. I've also used it on wood to fill big holes. You need a few coats but when you actually add the hardener yourself it dries fast so your sanding in 20 minutes.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I just used automotive Bondo to repair rot on my porch. Chiseled out the rot. It's at the top of the stairs, so gets a lot of traffic, rain, slush, crushed salt, etc. Will see how it holds up... I'm considering using it to fill holes in strike plates which have been badly damaged by previous handymen (a century of people moving strike plates for warping floors and sagging hinges). The Bondo will take screws, can be drilled and chiseled. I'm only using it where the alternative is to replace the wood.
I think Bondo would be the best on corners. Bondo is much more durable and corners are the most vulnerable; at least in my house. Bondo is probably much easier to get in a automotive repair shop. thanks for a great video.
Gorilla High Performance Wood Filler is better than all 3 of the options you chose and you can get it at Wal Mart. Its from the Gorilla Glue conglomerate. However I agree with many that 2 part Bondo is best in everything except cleanup....always be mixing more than I need..
I personally use the woodfiller by elmers all the time. For nailholes and mitres, i just rub it in with my finger when wet. Little to no sanding on nail holes, and on mitres I overfill them a little bit and sand when dry. almost never need 2 coats
When you say "Bondo", glazing putty is not what I first think of. I've done lots of large scale repair work and the generic term Bondo refers to a 2 part epoxy putty that dries like a rock in a fairly short time. Glazing putty is for very small touch up spots. Past about 1/16" glazing putty shrinks and cracks. My original use of Bondo products was in auto body repair and customization. We used 2-part bondo for the large fill and glazing putty to fill things like small stone chips. Then, of course a thick, filling primer to catch any remaining imperfections.
I, too, wish you would stop calling the Dynatron putty "Bondo." It is objectively *not* Bondo, other than that both are marketed as auto body fillers. Bondo is a 2-part polyester-based epoxy resin. Dynatron is a 1-part nitrocellulose material. And, for what it's worth, I like *real* Bondo as a wood filler. It has excellent adhesion, sands and tools well, takes paint like wood, and doesn't shrink or crack after hardening.
I dont like how critical you've been about his word choice. Objectively speaking you had no reason to comment on this video telling the creator what to call things. If you wanted to correct him (instead of seeming superior in some way) you would have sent a PM. I get that mid to late life crises can be difficult, but a win on the internet isn't the solution.
@@ridgeedwards9538 I think his response is correct though because for example - if you went to the store and bought white spray paint and then went to paint something you wanted red would you then go complain to the store that the white spray paint that you bought wasn't red? Furthermore would you make a video on UA-cam reviewing red spray paints and then use the white spray paint in your comparison and then tell people it sucks because it isn't red? Dynatron is totally different than Bondo - they are not made or marketed for the same purpose. Telling people on the internet that dynatron is Bondo is misleading to say the least and it needs to be corrected.
I've been using Zinssers MH Ready Patch. Goes on smooth, dries fast and rock hard, so smooth sometimes i don't have to sand it. Like a crown miter. Lays on so nice i don't mess with it again.
That bondo seemed to behave just like the bondo glazing/spot filler that I’ve used before on pinholes. It’s not supposed to be caked on or fill anything deep or broad. Instead I use the traditional gray bondo body filler where you mix in the hardener, and can slop it onto anything.
The bondo you used is a glase , like Kombi putty . Use have to spread it very thin since it does not use a catalyst. Body filler with catalyst is preferred , dries within 10 mins. , again spread very thin or you will spend your time sanding off the access . Wood putty takes hours , and spackling is a soft clumsy waste of time
We use the glazing putty ( bondo ) as second coat on top of a Spackle. Glazing putty is only good for filling shrinkage on the spackle or dry Tex not for filling deep holes.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter glazing putty like Bondo is very hard and difficult to sand but sands to a very smooth finish. It gives you the best looking results for nail holes and fine cracks. But it’s only meant to be put on very thin....
The way we spray: Prime Fill holes with spackle Sand and check with light for shrinkage. Glazing putty on shrinkage. Sand and check with light Caulk all corners Spot prime or re-prime. Light sand Then 2 finish coats.
Not seeing any mention of 2 part wood epoxy? I wouldn't use it on nail holes (I want a single pass/sand product for that) but for exposed corners that need more strength, I have used a product like Abatron WoodEpox. Works pretty good and easy.
Dynatron isn't 'Bondo', it's lacquer based spot glazing putty aka, red lead. If you want polyester filler you ought to use UGL "Icing" It's *fast* and doesn't shrink! Muralo brand latex spackle works well where you don't mind dry time and want no fumes.
As others have said, it is the 2 part Bondo that works well. Glazing putty is for filling small and very shallow imperfections. If you thought sanding the glazing putty was miserable, wait till you overdo the 2 part Bondo and have to sand it. Best to build it in layers. One major setback to the 2 part Bondo is the very short working time. You have less than 10 minutes once mixed. Much longer and it is hard to smooth out and quickly becomes hard.
Your dog .. I'd consider baseboard corner block; either with a "slide in finger joint" for wood OR stop it once and for all steel version. On a what I actually use note, my painters use wood putty for nail holes, wood filler for chips and dents (some use it for nail holes), and high quality latex chalk.
I’m going to start my comment by saying my background is in Automotive collision repair and refinishing. I am also a journeyman carpenter and a journeyman painter. How do those three trades intersect into a professional career? I am a touch up artist. I repair and refinish mostly stain grade wood, but I also do stone, tile, laminate, leather, etc… including the occasional paint grade trim. I hope you take this as the constructive feedback I intend it to be. There is one thing big thing I feel your video is lacking: destructive testing. I would love to see a companion video wherein you take your test piece and put it through a gauntlet of real world scenarios. For example simulate a vacuum repeatedly smashing into the corner, leave the piece in the blazing hot sun for a week, etc… Allow me to predict the outcome: The wood filler will shrink and expose the repairs. The spackle will not hold up to any form of abuse. Done correctly, the “bondo” is by far the most durable. There’s a reason why I use “bondo” in ALL of my repair work. To be totally honest, for those of us who use “bondo” regularly, your blundering application seems blatantly biased against “bondo,” as though you made it a difficult mess on purpose. For starters, Bondo is a brand. And not a very good brand at that. Bondo is the brand name that became the nickname for polyester filler. The actual product is a polyester resin mixed with a sand-able filler; there are vastly superior makers of polyester resins and fillers, far better than Bondo. Bondo is the Walmart of polyester resins and fillers. It’s cheap and plentiful, but it sacrifices quality for quantity. No, you cannot get a chemical burn from polyester resin. Eye rollingly ridiculous notion… well, maybe if you purposely squirted the hardener in your eye… Please note, polyester resin and the chemical hardener are clear liquids, they can literally be made in any color. You can get white “bondo” with white hardener. The only reason why the Bondo brand use red hardener is so that you can see if it is properly mixed. The amount of hardener you use, directly affects the cure speed. Of note, a few manufacturers make the color of the hardener correspond with the amount of the organic peroxide chemicals in the hardener, so that the filler to hardener mixing ratio stays the same, but the hardener to resin ratio is much higher, thereby making the chemical reaction happen faster. This is not a common practice, most hardener has the same amount of chemical and the color difference is just the dye. The point here is, the amount of hardener you put in the filler controls the speed at which it cures. In all of my years, I have never seen polyester filler fail from too much hardener added. It’s probably possible, but it would be hard as a rock before you could even spread it on anything Which leads me to my next point, you can make polyester filler cure way faster than spackle or wood filler. And polyester filler won’t shrink. Ultimately, what I am asking, is, before you 💩 on polyester filler and resin, give it a proper chance to prove its superiority.
If you'd like to help me make better videos and you enjoy absurdly comfortable T-shirts:) check this out-> www.etsy.com/ca/shop/TheFunnyCarpenter?ref=search_shop_redirect
Bondo is designed to be used on bare timber only. I’m not sure about oil based paint, but if you use it over acrylic/latex paints the chemicals will react with the paint and the Bondo won’t set properly.I believe it’s the hydrogen peroxide, but I’m not certain of that. Do a same comparison with ‘new installed’ (not primed) baseboards and I think you’ll find a very different result.
This strictly relates to home use, not automotive use, as automotive paint systems can be quite different, before someone chimes in, rebutting my statement.
Thank you for all of these tips and tricks!! LOVE your channel. Now I can get to all those "little" fixes that seemed so confusing.
The video about what material to use on a staircase answered a question I have had for a while. Short answer: I'm going to leave my carpet. 😁👍🏻
Keep it up!! Excited to see what you post next.
The bondo you used is a 2nd stage bondo, it's meant to be used for micro abrasions in other words after using the bondo that is used for car dents the one with the hardener paste which dries in 15 minutes if mixed at the correct ration once you sand this you leave sanding marks you would then use the glazing bondo, that red paste that you used wrongly in the 1st place, to fill the sanding marks then you would sand with a finer grit to achieve a higher quality finish not everybody likes sanding marks on a glass smooth surface
@@Nathanation88 i have experience with it in automotive and carpentry and it will work just fine over latex/acrylic or oil you just need too use the two part were you mix the harder in yourself and make sure you ruff up the area were your using it so it gets a good bond. The spot putty he is using is for small imperfections such as feeling in deep scratches but you are right it works on bare wood the best
I only use wood filler for trim repairs. It is harder to sand but it leaves a durable repair. Drydex will crumble out with the slightest tap from a broom. As for the shrinkage in nails, it's all in how its applied. Putty knife works better. You need to really force it in so that it kind of bulges out after and leaves it slightly overfilled. 2 part bondo for only the largest repairs. Nobody wants their house to smell like that all day.
I may have to remake this video and call it: Guy that thought he Knew EVERYTHING- read his UA-cam Comments- only to find out he was kinda Dumb...May need to shorten that a bit:)
Does a semi or gloss paint need to be surface sanded before applying wood filler for a strong adhesion?
LOL, I was just about to leave a comment: You, the Vancouver Carpenter, would not recommend Drydex for this type of repair because I just finished watching your video before this one. LOVE YOU and love your channel!
Same. I use wood filler. Had to redo our livingroom, as I could see every hole. I think they used silicone though. Took longer, but I can't see any holes after one year. I'd probably only use Bondo only for really bad damage, but then I'd consider replacing the baseboard. Also, I'm not a contractor, so not rushing to get to the next job.
Really enjoying both of your channels.
Holy smoke!
Vancouver Carpenter doesn't just watch your vids. He comments on them too!
Subscribed.
20 years of using real Bondo with hardener, no shrinkage and it dries faster than I can apply it. never need second coat . Sanding takes more time but its way stronger.
Would you recommend using Bondo to fill cracks on outdoor deck? (Or MH Ready Patch or Durhams)?
Just curious.
How do you dispose of any harden left over Bondo? Can’t get a straight answer on line
@@Alexkpz888 Throw it in the trash.
@@krissymichele bondo would work great . Just get some quality bondo ( not bondo brand from home dumpo)
Ready patch would also work ok but not as strong
@@Alexkpz888 place in garbage
The Red putty Is meant to be used on top of bondo to fill sanding scratches
Pro cabinet maker here. I've done my own installs and touch ups for 10 years. The glazing putty goes on like butter and has super fast dry time when applied in small amounts, so it's tempting... But it's shrinkage is so great that it's not well suited for this application. I am still trying to find a use for it in my wood working or painting routines.
A lot of people on this thread are recommending 2 part fillers. Once I found MH Ready Patch I very rarely use any other spackle or wood filler on painted products. It is much harder than other putties or spackles. Not as hard as Bondo, but that's good. Bondo is normally harder than wood and will potentially be difficult to sand flat because of that. MH Ready Patch has fantastic adhesion, minimal skrinkage, good dry time, spreads smooth, interior exterior, and it's a similar hardness as hardwoods so you are unlikely to have the issue you had with the DAP where it sands easier than the wood and becomes uneven very easily.
The 2 parts still have their place if you need a big gap to dry super fast. But that's about it. MH Ready Patch is the best 1 part spackle paste I've ever used. And it sands like a dream
Agreed, ive tried several types of fillers and found the MH ready patch about 3 months ago and its a life saver
Agree. I've found it to be the best performing filler for outdoor use, primarily for nail holes, and minor surface damage. When you're climbing up and down a ladder or scaffold, 2 parts are not convenient, and other spackles don't have the durability.
Is it better to prime (previously painted) trim before using the MH Ready Patch? In other words, Does it adhere better to recently-primed wood, or is it just as good to apply it to previously-painted, newly sanded wood? Thanks!!
@@Avital4414 hmmm..... Well it won't stick well to glossy areas, just like any other paint or primer. Better safe than sorry. If you are gonna put it on a previously painted area, just scuff the painted area up with some sandpaper first. But it will stick to primer and raw wood super easy with no prep work needed.
@@MaydaysCustomWoodworks sorry I wasn’t clear. I thoroughly sanded already so no concern about adhesion. My question is whether it would be better to apply the ready patch over freshly primed trim, or to the deglossed but not yet re-primed surface. Thanks!
I use the Bondo putty that requires catalyst hardener. Comes in a can withe a tube of cream hardener. Especially for larger/deep defects and to build up areas that have missing material. Can’t beat it. The Bondo spot putty you used shrinks terribly. For nail holes and small defects, it’s hard to beat Drydex. Also have used Bondo with Fiberglas strands all ready mixed in to replace large areas of rotten wood on window frames and it lasted for nearly 10 years. Thanks for the video.
Quick note about the bondo. That kind you used is for very very minor imperfections, like pinholes. That glazing putty is a single part (no resin in it) and it is known to shrink. There are better two part glazing putties that fill in deeper imperfections better. They also won't bleed through as they are gray.
and they dry in like 15 mins
Any suggestions? Doing exterior front stairs.
I've always had great results with Bondo on difficult corners in high traffic areas. After I watched this video I decided I'd use the Elmer's wood filler tested in this video (winner) on stair risers in the corners. EVERY one cracked within a month. I had to use a multi-tool to clean all of the wood filler out and replace. Since they were inside corners, I decided to use Big Stretch and repainted. A bit messy and difficult, but so far, so good. BUT, my mitered corners on the large plywood panels of our kitchen island filled with bondo and sanded to an eased edge are perfect 3 years on.
Question- I’ve never used bondo, in your opinion can bondo work on exterior wood siding holes caused by animals?
@@kimberHD45 yes I’m doing that right now I’m repairing exterior window trim holes from woodpeckers and the bondo puddy works great, I filled majority of the holes with gaps and cracks filled then went over it with bondo looks great!
Bondo Shrinks and requires a 2nd coat!
If you use spackle out of a "tub", you can mix a little bit of chalkline chalk into it so that you can see where it is after it has dried. A few times I've missed sanding off some before painting (as it was white, or turned white), and having it have a bit of colour lets you easily find them to sand smooth.
Excellent tip
Wouldn’t the extra colour mean extra coats of paint to hide that colour?
@@ian9toes Not really. Only a small pinhole of colour the size of the brad or nail is showing after sanding, and even one coat of trim paint is enough to cover this. Even in larger spots, one or two coats of trim paint will pretty much hide anything.
@@ian9toes It'd depend on the color you're using. Chalk line comes primarily in blue, yellow, and red. So you can use a chalk that follows the hues of the paint you're going to use. Yellow with the tans, greens, and whites, red with the reds/browns/pinks, and obviously blue with the blues/purples. And remember, you DONT need much. Add pinches of it until it's tinted. You're not trying to make blue spackle.
I absolutely LOVE DryDex in the tub! It was so easy to work with and apply and you can dry OR wet sand it! For wood like that, like baseboard trim and surfaces that will get banged with a broom, I love Durham's rock hard water putty!
What I've been doing for small filler job is using Spackle mixing with tiny amount of wood glue.
It's much stronger than Spackle itself and works like a charm especially on the corner edge of wall or trim.
Thats a good idea. Thanks
LOL that is funny because this is also what I do. I found the white glue makes that pink paste easier to work with.
I've been using the wood filler with good results. It's a bit harder to sand, but you can resolve that by not slapping on too much. Works great and pretty durable. And.. it comes in white or whatever color your are working with.
Dynapatch is a nice in-between bondo and spackling. You used to have to go to paint shops for it but now home depot carries it. It dries between 10 and 30 minutes and gives a very hard finish
Interesting conclusion. All 3 have their place in trim and cabinetry. Typically I use drydex on nail holes and very very minimal open mitres. Obviously wood filler is the only option for stain grade. But for larger joints like doing flush window sills or exterior wood trim that's paint grade, definitely use a two-part bondo. Much better at resisting cracking.
If I use bondo indoors, I typically run it as the base coat and then finish coat with drydex to get that nice finish.
Interesting idea to use it as a base coat for strength. Thank u
@@TheFunnyCarpenter As a a 40+ year professional painter I think the 2 part bondo is going to be the most durable on your baseboards, considering bangs from vacuums, and the occasional tooth. I may be mistaken but it looked like the bondo you used was a lacquer putty, meant to be used for very fine scratches after sanding the 2 part bondo. I use it on painted cabinet doors for fine scratches.
Would bondo make a good gap filler when installing wainscoting? Then wood fill over the top for a perfect finish?
@@motoace2007 For sure. If it's paint grade of course. If you're good with your Bondo, you may not even need the wood filler.
Red oxide is what you used instead of actual Bondo, and like the many others have said, it is a finishing product to fill fine grooves from sanding.
Probably the best solution for deep fill areas would be one of the fillers, followed by the dridex. the filler for the bulk fill, and dridex to even it out. When you do Bondo on a car repair, you apply the filler and sand it smooth, then apply a glaze over it, before the final sanding, and then apply the paint.
Excellent points
@@TheFunnyCarpenter And, thinking on it overnight: I think you used the glaze for body work and not Bondo. Bondo is a two part catalyzing paste, which cures out in less than fifteen minutes at room temperature if you have the proportion of the two components right. I’m pretty sure using actual catalyzing Bondo would have different results.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Checking on it, you were using one of the “Bondo” glazes, instead of the Bondo. Intended to go over Bondo after you get it smooth to the surface.
The bondo works if you know how to apply it as you said. You need to push the bondo in and wipe it clean for less sanding. Normally doesn't need a second coat.
I’ve been using “plastic wood” to fill cracks and holes. Works really good and it’s water based so you can thin it down a little with water if you need to.
I was taught to apply two coats of spackle as a base coat underneath the bondo. It’s more work but leaves a really clean and smooth finish.
That seems like the way to go for premium results.
Seems pointless to me.
I think the ‘toxicity’ of the ‘Bondo’ product also might have a bearing here. I am purposely trying not to invest my money into any products/services that do harm to people or environment. I am always looking for the least harmful products. I’d rather invest in the products/services of innovative companies that are looking at alternatives which is why I am constantly researching for new products. They are constantly changing - like new software updates.
I had a cat that used to use his claws on all our trim work. I think I can sand some of them out but some I had to replace, and some will require patching. This video is perfect, thank you.
Thank you for a very helpful video! I'll be able to use your results on my current project.
What product would be best for building up missing areas on a curved piece of wood trim? I have a scooped-out area on an outward curve on a piece of chair rail that I have to rebuild. The chair rail will be affixed to window trim. The trim won't (theoretically) be subjected to any touching or impacts, but you never know.
Also, I know it's too late for this video, but if you ever do a comparison video again, here are a couple of suggestions.
* Do the same type of damage on all three pieces, so the comparisons will be apples to apples. Try to make the same problems in the same locations on each piece.
* Do several types of damage on all three pieces: deep gouges, scratches, small holes, big holes, and so on.
* Label each board in big letters with the product used for repair, so if we miss what you're saying, we can still read which product was used on that board.
* After all repairs are completed, show the "before and after" images of each piece on its own screen, side-to-side, like "Bondo before and after," "wood filler before and after," and "Spackle before and after." I had problems seeing where the damage was on each piece in the "after" pictures" because I didn't know where to look.
Thank you again!
I loved watching the dog! Our terrier would sit at the floor-to-ceiling windows and watch birds and chew the window sills. We didn't want to replace all the trim so we sanded them out and now have oval window sills.
Use green Bondo from from an automotive store. Mix it yourself and mix it hot. It will be dry and ready for sanding in 30 minutes. I have done this thousands of times and fixed major damage as well as saved some custom trim from having to be torn out. I don't use it to fill nail holes as that is a job for spackle. Bondo also will not be damaged as easily as the wood filler.
Green to me is more of a mess and even harder to work. I would only use it on larger areas that really needed the density and strength.
@@charlespannier5389 I have never had any trouble with it, I start with 80 grit sandpaper to rough it. I also try to match it close to what is there. Bondo doesn't shrink much. It also paints great.
I use DryDex. Easy to use. But I agree with you on larger repairs so I’ll switch to wood filler. Thx.
That’s cause it’s not what they use they would use a 2 part bondo that doesn’t shrink and dries in like 15 minutes. What you used is for small cracks in bondo
I think you’re correct, that red stuff called glazing compound by the automotive finish folks. For filling small imperfections in the polyester bondo before priming. It’s quite soft compared to bondo.
Yeah the Bondo is putty used for holes which is used for real body filler(bondo) just before priming. Bondo is term used loosely with two part body filler that has a hardner. In general there are premium grade fillers that dry and sand within a minute. Evercoat is a good brand which makes a product called Rage and Rage gold. I’ve used both and the gold spreads very smooth and sands smooth without the pin holes and has very little shrinkage.
Thanks for this. I have some baseboard repairs to handle myself and was just going to use drydex all around. I'll grab a tube of the wood filler for heavier dents and corners.
I hope thing turn out great! Good luck
I’ve used a variety of products on my home trim projects (2 part Bondo wood filler, Bondo spotting and glazing putty, MH patch, drydex, wood glue, etc). Some of the less noxious products are less stinky because they are water based “clays” essentially. Water based products (drydex, elmers wood filler, etc) are difficult to get in to fine imperfections. It’s probably due to the particle Size in the mixture and the surface tension of the water base. Water based products can however be easily cleaned up with a wet rag. Products like 2 part Bondo and Spotting and glazing putty are non water based. They spread much more easily in shallow imperfections and they tend to sand down to more of a automobile like finish. They do not clean up with water though! The red putty you used is great for very fine imperfections (scratches, minor nicks, tear out, etc).
Excellent points.
You are becoming one of my favorite people to watch on UA-cam. Please continue on! Your comparison/review videos like this are super helpful to see and just to hear from someone with experience and honesty
Thanks a lot mate, thanks for checking out the channel!
Agreed 👍
I like using wood filler when installing trim. Brown pops out so you don’t accidentally forget to sand a spot and paint over it, creating a pita fix. I also hit holes with a spray can of primer then paint an hour later
This is a good concept. It sucks when you forget to sand some areas:(
I use 20 minute light sheetrock mud to fill nail holes in paint grade trim. sticks well, drys fast, doesn't shrink, sand able if neccessary. Elmer's wood filler for exterior nail fill..
Very helpful. I have exactly these types of repairs to do and have both the Drydex Spackle and the Elmer's Wood Filler, and now I know their benefits and differences and therefore which one to use when. Thank you!!
Great video and a lot of knowledge in the comments! Great to read so many options out there. I guess different situations call for different solutions. I personally use MH ready patch quite often. I also use Bondo with the cream hardner for larger interior repairs. I’ll go to Bondo glass with cream hardner for larger exterior repairs using a wood hardener first if there’s rotting. The wood epoxy is great if you really need to easily mold and shape, but so expensive! Thanks for the video and to all those who commented!
I have straight edge skirting and to save time and money long term, I placed Aluminum corners on every corner, I went this way as it's the easiest to work with and gives a neat edge on the cut with minimum work.
Once selling I take the edges off and the skirting looks like new, I use a little Silicon to keep them in place.
If skirtings were made from hard wood we wouldn't have so many issues in the first place :)
Good video as usual :)
Are you from UK? I've never heard an American call it skirting. We call it baseboards!
@@benjaminwilson869 Australia :)
@@billybobjones4317 very cool.
I like the spackle because i can use a wet/damp sponge immediately and get a paintable finish. Wood filler I mix some water with it, to make it more malleable and finish with wet sponge. I’ve never used bondo though.. Great video 👍
That intro is EXACTLY why I needed this… uncanny 😂
That glazing putty is for hair line cracks and small/shallow holes. Our painters use it but only after they have used wood filler and primed the trim
I'm getting a tube of wood filler! My baseboard is on bullnose corners and sections that are about an inch long, now I think I can do this! Thanks. Now to watch the sanding block vid.
Best wishes on the repair Marcia!
Yeah... as soon as I saw the ‘shape + size’ of that sanding block, I knew why it would be more advantageous to others... and I haven’t even seen that video yet... curious to see if I hit the ‘marks’. 😉
I use two part bondo two part wood filler or body filler. It is a little messier to work with but it doesn’t crack and best of all it dries in 5 mins.
That is definitely handy
That’s glazing putty, which is used after the 2 part bondo system. It’s very good at filling light scratches or tiny imperfections. Used often when getting a car body ready for primer. I wouldn’t use it for trim. Good conclusion.
Agreed! The Bondo spot putty is for micro fine scratches and imperfections and not intended for any build up. Applied to scratches, it dries ready to sand within 10 to 20 minutes. If you want to fill cracks and dents with Bondo, you need to mix the 2-part automotive filler which can also be sanded and shaped within 20 minutes. Mixing the 2-part system has limited working time and is a pain, but it's bullet proof.
95% of high end finishers use it for trim but valid point its really only good for light scratches
MH Ready is great as other have commented. Find often best to apply with a putty knife. Can "slick" it with water to make it apply smoother or help with contouring. Very easy to apply and sand. Also doesn't telegraph through finish like some other fillers do.
I use setting compound for really bad repairs and then go over it with lightweight joint compound. Once it's primed and painted it holds up well. I use these in rentals that are used and abused and haven't had any issues.
Thanks for the tip
@@TheFunnyCarpenter thanks for the video - I always suspected that bondo wasn't the best!
Dude you are releasing these videos like 2 weeks after I have already made the mistakes 🤣 lol completely agree with the results. Thanks!
Dang!
I like to use DAP Plastic Wood for my trim filling. Easier to sand than the Elmers wood filler and just as durable IMO.
Wish I would have seen this before I installed new baseboards and door trim. Outstanding job. Thanks!!
An application where bondo beats all the others is removing a door then filling the mortices and the borehole on the jamb. The others will not dry and crumble. The Bondo will make it look like there never was a door there. The dry time is also unbeatable, and you can have it painted in under an hour. I always carry a gallon of all-purpose Bondo putty, its $25 at the home despot and im like Jesus to my clients when i use it.
So much truth here. I can literally undo any damage like it was never there. 😁
Thanks for your down to earth approach to your reviews. Easy to follow for any home repair person. I haven’t tried wood filler on baseboards but will give it a go.
Automotive type bondo with hardener works like a champ and can be sanded pretty soon after application. Pretty sure you could have applied two coats and the paint in the time it took for the tube stuff to dry. You missed the cost part of each which also drives choice.
I have some old crappy plywood I'm turning into the front (most visible) part of a piece of furniture, seriously considering coating the whole thing in Sheetrock 90.
I used bondo where my concrete board around my tub met the drywall rather than drywall mud because it is impervious to water, but when I went to paint it I found that latex paint won't stick to it even with a primer, so I mixed a very thin coat of elmer's glue up and used that as primer and it has worked well since.
Thanks for sharing, some good info here
you definently shouldnt have used paint at that area your suppose to roll on a water retardant .. you can get it at any home improvement type place
@@derekgulosh5782 Never heard of such a thing, but this is still fine 15 years later
So you didn’t tile it? Maybe it’s a regional thing. Around here, everyone tiles the walls around the tub.
@@MoneyManHolmes Yes of course I tiled it All I was saying is where the transition between the concrete board and the drywall is I used Bondo for the drywall mud which feathered out 4 in or so past were the tile ended. The biggest exposure of the Bondo was along the tub below the tile where the drywall meets the tub but there is no tile down there below the step in edge
When you clear quarters in the army before you move, housing always makes you fill nail holes with toothpaste. I'm shocked you haven't reviewed this highly professional practice.
:) I'll have to try that one
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Don't do it
I’ve used a bar of dove soap 😂 oops
Durhams water putty, dries fast and it doesn't freeze when you forget it in the van.
sands easy, shrinks a little but i go over it twice, dries fast.
Cheep as dirt too. And if any products been around for that long you know it’s good.
Good stuff for knots and such.
Better than bondo?
@@MD-eo2wy not outdoors, but neither does well wet, though bondo tends to do a bit better. Durham's is a bit of a learning curve. Im increasingly using modern products. Wood epoxy is ideal but not something most keep around
I like to use bondo on metal doors that have dents or wood doors that have big gouges. Great video by the way👍
The thing to do for bondo is to use woodfill on top of the bondo. The bondo will become super hard and not fall out over time, whereas just wood fill alone will more often fall out on big repairs over time.
Bondo is the final coat after you fill the defects with wood filler or drydex. Bondo gives you a super strong finish with the smoothness of a glass finish.
Thanks! I've always vacillated between the spackle and wood filler but never got around to testing.
ThAnks for checking out the vid! Glad it was helpful
For nail holes and small stuff, I also use spackling. However, the "bondo" you used isn't really a true two part bondo. A two part bondo is great at filling big gaps, and is way tougher than a water/alcohol based product. Bondo really bonds to whatever surface you're repairing, and is not prone to denting or other damage.
Great points
But you can't put latex over it without special primer
Fantastically informative!
Are you aware if there's a sort of metal plating that can be cleanly installed to *prevent* further pet damage?
Thanks Ben @Vancouver Carpenter for the additional info.
I buy Bondo Finishing wood filler, which is a polyethylene/polyester resin product, combined with pumice, talc and a few other fillers which make it really nice in terms of sanding. The set time is way better than whatever crap you used... 5-10 minute max. Get it at any big box store in gallon buckets.
I think whatever the available in the house and do the best you can. Stop buying and wasting with more waste. Thanks for the video!! 👍🏻
Cool comparison video. I use fast dry spackle then bondo for a quick and near perfect finish. The Bondo brand glazing putty dries fast and sands smooth as glass with a sponge block.
If your getting body filler right out of a tube like that its likely "spot putty" and intended for pin holes, not for what your expecting it to do. Get some real two part body filler out of a can with a hardener and you will not get shrinkage and dry time is fast.
I haven't tried this myself, but I think the glazing compound goes on after filler as a second coat.
Great advice like always. These videos remind me of this one time when I went to a "Comedy defensive driving class" for driving way to slow 😉, I don't remember the comedy part . I like watching them for the great tips and honestly it's like being on a mellow high, just kick back and enjoy the colors . Honestly i really do like watching your videos.
Thanks a lot Eli, I appreciate the comment
I cannot believe you didn't evaluate flavor! Great overview (other than the bondo miss). Thanks!
I’d use regular Bondo because it dries in 15 mins. I use it it all the time. It’s chemically hardens
Yep love a 2 part bondo for this. Or the oil based filler HM
I mean MH
MH shrinks lots tho
2/3 coats with 30 min drying between
Downside with regular (body filler, not "glazing putty" as shown in the video) Bondo is that it starts to set in 5 minutes or so, so if you have a bunch of nail holes to fill, you have to hustle, and it's really overkill for nail holes. I use body filler Bondo if I'm moving a hinge and need to repair a door jamb or fill a lock strike location or other large repair area. Spackle for the nail holes.
Bondo bondo bondo.I worked at a cabinet shop making habersham level stuff.. all we used was bondo. Plus that smell...😍😍😍
probably already mentioned, but that "bondo" is actually a skim coat design to adhere to bondo. Depending on the wood type, i'd worry about adhesion. And I don't know the numbers labelled, but with that non-catalyzed stuff, you'll maybe get 1/16th of an inch out of it before it becomes susceptible to dehiscence. ESPECIALLY without a 2 pack paint on top.
MH Ready Patch is good for this. I use Bondo All Purpose (different from the one you use) for large jobs but it's amazing to work with. You can shape it to however you want.
From my experience the bondo is the best way too go. You can shape it and mold it too match any type of repair your doing. I have repaired major wood damage with it and you cant even tell the difference you just need too use the 2 part were you mix the harder in yourself that way you can control how fast it dries. The spot putty is used mainly for small imperfections. You can actually paint it in under 30 minutes if done properly and. You can find it at any auto parts store just remember a little harder goes a long ways you will also need too ruff up the surface your applying it too so you get a good bond or it will peel right off when sanding and the secret too sanding it is too sand most of it down before it gets too hard with an 80 grit sandpaper and then do a final sand after it has finished setting up with 120 grit the only down side is you do need too put a light coat of primer over it before you paint or you will get a red tent that bleeds threw unless your putting on 2 coats of paint then you usually don't have too prime the second coat usually covers the redness just fine
First, thank you! I was doubting my purchase for wood filler after seeing a video about “how great bondo wood fillers were” for my trim, and am glad I watched this video Probably a silly question 😅 but what kind of “painters sanding sponge” do I need for filling in the nail holes and any other areas where the boards meet? What grit? Any recommendations is welcome
Helpful! I never knew you could potentially get a chemical burn from Bondo
I am a custom cabinet maker. Bondo all day for paint grade-nothing beats it-it never shows but you have to mix the hardener yourself into the bondo with a specific ratio.
Can you do video how to fill nail holes in pvc trim and pvc joints, pvc joint with wood door frame. I know Canada doesn’t have termite but in Florida it’s a big concern. If you do a video I will recommend you to a neighbor ❤
I will keep it in mind. for the nail holes I would use exterior wood filler, for the butt seem I would probably use a caulking called NP1 MasterSeal.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter thank you kind sir
should try Timbermate. Bondo spot puddy is best used when spraying 2 coats over it
I will check it out, thanks for the rec.
I used bondo on a hollow core door that had an indention/hole in it. Patched it right up.
I'd love it if you would make a video on how to repair wood furniture that has been chewed by a puppy. Thanks.
LOve your work. Goodfilla, it sands in about 20 min. I'm using it on furniture
That bondo is a glazing putty. It’s not good for anything deep, it just continues to shrink. It’s great at getting into shallow dents/scratches that other fillers might have a hard time skimming without wiping the filler out in the process. I use wood filler for nail holes, etc. then sand, and skim it with the bondo. It dries super fast and won’t shrink when applied in thin coats. Can’t fill anything deeper than a c hair. I’m a millwork finisher and I use it on the daily, it’s good stuff when used properly
I use Bondo for the right application/situation. it definitely takes a little bit more work to get it looking right but it's super durable. Nice upload funny guy 👍
Thanks Greg, I will play around some more with the bondo. What do you usually use it for?
I like bondo too. You can even sculpt it as it is drying which is great for damaged moulding.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I use Bondo in a can ya know the stuff for cars so I can add the hardener myself. I'll use it on odd repair jobs, for example most recently I used it to repair window grid that a cat destroyed. I've also used it on wood to fill big holes. You need a few coats but when you actually add the hardener yourself it dries fast so your sanding in 20 minutes.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I just used automotive Bondo to repair rot on my porch. Chiseled out the rot. It's at the top of the stairs, so gets a lot of traffic, rain, slush, crushed salt, etc. Will see how it holds up... I'm considering using it to fill holes in strike plates which have been badly damaged by previous handymen (a century of people moving strike plates for warping floors and sagging hinges). The Bondo will take screws, can be drilled and chiseled. I'm only using it where the alternative is to replace the wood.
I think Bondo would be the best on corners. Bondo is much more durable and corners are the most vulnerable; at least in my house. Bondo is probably much easier to get in a automotive repair shop. thanks for a great video.
0:06 I love the Doggie Crunching sound effect added! 😹 Or is it added? 🙀
What about repairing quarter round in the kitchen? I would like to see how you would update and fix pre-stained quarter round.
Gorilla High Performance Wood Filler is better than all 3 of the options you chose and you can get it at Wal Mart. Its from the Gorilla Glue conglomerate. However I agree with many that 2 part Bondo is best in everything except cleanup....always be mixing more than I need..
I personally use the woodfiller by elmers all the time. For nailholes and mitres, i just rub it in with my finger when wet. Little to no sanding on nail holes, and on mitres I overfill them a little bit and sand when dry. almost never need 2 coats
When you say "Bondo", glazing putty is not what I first think of. I've done lots of large scale repair work and the generic term Bondo refers to a 2 part epoxy putty that dries like a rock in a fairly short time. Glazing putty is for very small touch up spots. Past about 1/16" glazing putty shrinks and cracks.
My original use of Bondo products was in auto body repair and customization. We used 2-part bondo for the large fill and glazing putty to fill things like small stone chips. Then, of course a thick, filling primer to catch any remaining imperfections.
You need to use all purpose bondo and add mor hardener, hands down best filler for pros
I, too, wish you would stop calling the Dynatron putty "Bondo." It is objectively *not* Bondo, other than that both are marketed as auto body fillers. Bondo is a 2-part polyester-based epoxy resin. Dynatron is a 1-part nitrocellulose material. And, for what it's worth, I like *real* Bondo as a wood filler. It has excellent adhesion, sands and tools well, takes paint like wood, and doesn't shrink or crack after hardening.
Yep. Real Bondo is totally different than what he used.
I dont like how critical you've been about his word choice. Objectively speaking you had no reason to comment on this video telling the creator what to call things. If you wanted to correct him (instead of seeming superior in some way) you would have sent a PM. I get that mid to late life crises can be difficult, but a win on the internet isn't the solution.
@@ridgeedwards9538 I think his response is correct though because for example - if you went to the store and bought white spray paint and then went to paint something you wanted red would you then go complain to the store that the white spray paint that you bought wasn't red? Furthermore would you make a video on UA-cam reviewing red spray paints and then use the white spray paint in your comparison and then tell people it sucks because it isn't red? Dynatron is totally different than Bondo - they are not made or marketed for the same purpose. Telling people on the internet that dynatron is Bondo is misleading to say the least and it needs to be corrected.
Bondo is a 3M brand name.
Wish away and watch the video again maybe your wish came true:)
Great video, perfect length and straight to the point and very thorough.
I've been using Zinssers MH Ready Patch. Goes on smooth, dries fast and rock hard, so smooth sometimes i don't have to sand it. Like a crown miter. Lays on so nice i don't mess with it again.
That bondo seemed to behave just like the bondo glazing/spot filler that I’ve used before on pinholes. It’s not supposed to be caked on or fill anything deep or broad. Instead I use the traditional gray bondo body filler where you mix in the hardener, and can slop it onto anything.
Thank you. I needed to see your video on Bondo vs wood filler vs dry dax. I thought Bondo would've been superior to the others.
What he used is not bondo. Bondo is absolutely the superior product for deep gouges and damaged wood.
I use the bondo you got to know how to use it , it’s like working on a car and having a perfect paint job
Rockler makes a product called Wunderfil. It's amazing. It has a Bondo-like texture only smoother (like Nutella). Water based. Sands like a dream.
The bondo you used is a glase , like Kombi putty . Use have to spread it very thin since it does not use a catalyst. Body filler with catalyst is preferred , dries within 10 mins. , again spread very thin or you will spend your time sanding off the access . Wood putty takes hours , and spackling is a soft clumsy waste of time
We use the glazing putty ( bondo ) as second coat on top of a Spackle.
Glazing putty is only good for filling shrinkage on the spackle or dry Tex not for filling deep holes.
This is a good idea to just use the glazing putty as a topcoat. What is the advantage of using it that way?
@@TheFunnyCarpenter glazing putty like Bondo is very hard and difficult to sand but sands to a very smooth finish. It gives you the best looking results for nail holes and fine cracks. But it’s only meant to be put on very thin....
The way we spray:
Prime
Fill holes with spackle
Sand and check with light for shrinkage.
Glazing putty on shrinkage.
Sand and check with light
Caulk all corners
Spot prime or re-prime.
Light sand
Then 2 finish coats.
Not seeing any mention of 2 part wood epoxy? I wouldn't use it on nail holes (I want a single pass/sand product for that) but for exposed corners that need more strength, I have used a product like Abatron WoodEpox. Works pretty good and easy.
Dynatron isn't 'Bondo', it's lacquer based spot glazing putty aka, red lead.
If you want polyester filler you ought to use UGL "Icing"
It's *fast* and doesn't shrink!
Muralo brand latex spackle works well where you don't mind dry time and want no fumes.
Thanks for the great info Jim- I appreciate it.
As others have said, it is the 2 part Bondo that works well. Glazing putty is for filling small and very shallow imperfections. If you thought sanding the glazing putty was miserable, wait till you overdo the 2 part Bondo and have to sand it. Best to build it in layers. One major setback to the 2 part Bondo is the very short working time. You have less than 10 minutes once mixed. Much longer and it is hard to smooth out and quickly becomes hard.
Thanks for the info!
What is with the dogs and the baseboards !?!? I have like 10 corners to fix - good comp video!
Your dog .. I'd consider baseboard corner block; either with a "slide in finger joint" for wood OR stop it once and for all steel version.
On a what I actually use note, my painters use wood putty for nail holes, wood filler for chips and dents (some use it for nail holes), and high quality latex chalk.
BTW .. I'm kind of joking about the baseboard blocks...
I’m going to start my comment by saying my background is in Automotive collision repair and refinishing.
I am also a journeyman carpenter and a journeyman painter.
How do those three trades intersect into a professional career? I am a touch up artist. I repair and refinish mostly stain grade wood, but I also do stone, tile, laminate, leather, etc… including the occasional paint grade trim.
I hope you take this as the constructive feedback I intend it to be.
There is one thing big thing I feel your video is lacking: destructive testing.
I would love to see a companion video wherein you take your test piece and put it through a gauntlet of real world scenarios.
For example simulate a vacuum repeatedly smashing into the corner, leave the piece in the blazing hot sun for a week, etc…
Allow me to predict the outcome:
The wood filler will shrink and expose the repairs. The spackle will not hold up to any form of abuse.
Done correctly, the “bondo” is by far the most durable. There’s a reason why I use “bondo” in ALL of my repair work.
To be totally honest, for those of us who use “bondo” regularly, your blundering application seems blatantly biased against “bondo,” as though you made it a difficult mess on purpose.
For starters, Bondo is a brand. And not a very good brand at that. Bondo is the brand name that became the nickname for polyester filler.
The actual product is a polyester resin mixed with a sand-able filler; there are vastly superior makers of polyester resins and fillers, far better than Bondo.
Bondo is the Walmart of polyester resins and fillers. It’s cheap and plentiful, but it sacrifices quality for quantity.
No, you cannot get a chemical burn from polyester resin. Eye rollingly ridiculous notion… well, maybe if you purposely squirted the hardener in your eye…
Please note, polyester resin and the chemical hardener are clear liquids, they can literally be made in any color.
You can get white “bondo” with white hardener. The only reason why the Bondo brand use red hardener is so that you can see if it is properly mixed.
The amount of hardener you use, directly affects the cure speed.
Of note, a few manufacturers make the color of the hardener correspond with the amount of the organic peroxide chemicals in the hardener, so that the filler to hardener mixing ratio stays the same, but the hardener to resin ratio is much higher, thereby making the chemical reaction happen faster. This is not a common practice, most hardener has the same amount of chemical and the color difference is just the dye.
The point here is, the amount of hardener you put in the filler controls the speed at which it cures. In all of my years, I have never seen polyester filler fail from too much hardener added. It’s probably possible, but it would be hard as a rock before you could even spread it on anything
Which leads me to my next point, you can make polyester filler cure way faster than spackle or wood filler. And polyester filler won’t shrink.
Ultimately, what I am asking, is, before you 💩 on polyester filler and resin, give it a proper chance to prove its superiority.