You are persistent, Sir! I’m too lazy to attempt that. I had a similar problem, so my answer was to replace the thing with a decorative steel wrought iron post. Kudos to you and your determination.
I'm a timberframe repairman. There is a great reason why I've never seen this done before. Could just repaired it with liquid wood. Probably would've lasted longer. Kudos for trying though. Red some comments and there was some good suggestions. Replace whole post, use the right base, use correct species of wood, support the work. I would recommend if you had to fix the bottom of a post, use a 16" - 24" half-lap joint, bolted together, no shims. This joint will rot twice as fast as the original ( or faster). Don't mean to be "that guy" but this helps no one and may get someone killed. Hire a pro if you don't know.
I came here to say what you did. I've replaced the bottom of posts in the past. Cut in a half-lap. As I was watching the first few minutes here I wondered why he made the initial cut so low and didn't give himself some room to work.
@@budm9982 Good point. I appreciate anyone "who tries", but in this day and age you can easiley find the right way to do anything. I do barn beam post with a half lap for one reason. It's how the old timers did it. That's the school I learned from.
Great work, I have changed a post, instead of doing the massive work. it could be useful but requires all kinds of tools. I will keep this method as a good possibility.
You did a great job. I'm a welder as opposed to a woodworker. I think, I would have built an extension for the metal portion. After a good cleanup and some zinc primer, you could fit the upper portion as needed and attach it to the fresh cut on the support. Welders tend to over-engineer everything. Your method was a great way to do it and you displayed the patience to achieve your objective. Once again.....great plan, good job.
I probably would have replaced it with a metal post lol. Em 63 and thats too much work😅. But i get it. The woodworking lesson from this video is good to know. Thanks for posting.
In reading the comments, I’m reminded of why I’ve not been OFF of FB for approximately 7 yrs now. Many negative comments from guys who I bet have probably never built anything and probably don’t even own a circular saw. There is more than one way to skin a cat, which is often missed by those who are critical and void of real world experience. I applaud your video , Great Job Sir!
@@vinceedwards575 My posts go through the deck and support my railing. And when the builders of my house built the deck they put the posts in the same way as his are sitting on the lower patio. After 24 years they are starting to show signs of rotting. I was wondering what I was going to do to repair them if I am still in the house at that time. Kudo's to him for showing me an idea.
@@DIYHGP there are many professional carpenters and builders such as myself who watch this video that aren't ignorant or assholes who still say that you did that in a very wrong and unsafe way and it is not going to last you should have done it right if you were going to do it.
@@bobbyhempel1513 Considering he was able to support the structure with a pair of 2x4s and a car jack, considering how little weight that post is carrying, you tell me what is so critically unsafe about it.
Being a painter for years, I suggest using a water sealer that soaks up into the wood. It will dry and keeps water out. Good quality sealer will last for years and can be recoated from time to time.
You must soak many coats into the end grain, 6+ would be reasonable... Plus the connection was poorly done and needed sealed glued. The fellow has good intentions but needs to be guided by an experienced Amish carpenter or equal... Cedar is weak relatively too. The metal base should have either been replaced or cleaned and treated with rust inhibitor. Oh well
Glues and epoxy work better than sealer. Especially the tight bond and shoe goo. Tight bond is the best glue and sealant for would on the market. The liquid sealer is cheaper for a reason.
I have seen someone do this with a chainsaw, remarkable job, he took the cut 2ft from the floor and used what we call a sky Jack to support the roof. Used the same method for jointing too, saved a heap of cash.
@@iSharpGaming He also did a perfectly acceptable job for about $15 worth of supplies rather than getting hosed by some crook contractor for 100 times that much.
You did a very nice job... more than enough for what it is supporting. A new full size 8x8 post is expensive, hard to find and super heavy to maneuver.
Thanks for the tip...I've got two 4x4 that have about two inches of wood rot at the bottom but you've given great ideas of where and how to start...thanks.
He would never get the bracket off. The nut is rusted so bad to the bolt embedded into the concrete that he would shear it off. Wow, what a mess that builder left.
He left that gap deliberately, assuming the post would settle down and close it once he removed that scissors jack. But that post wasn't carrying much weight to begin with. He could have removed the jack once he cut the bottom of the post out and it wouldn't have moved much at all.
I've been doing home repairs, painting, ground up construction in South Texas since the mid-70's, and you can label me as lazy. That said, I'd have either 1) replaced the entire post, coated the bottom with creosote or tar, put some sort of composite trim around the base after totally filling that 1" space with pool caulk, OR, 2) remove the post and do all that cutting on sawhorses. But, like I said, I'm lazy.
The negative comments are warranted. Everybody today wants a pat on the back for just trying. Sorry but right is right. This isn’t right. Doing things the wrong way is dangerous. Hire a pro if you don’t know. And I’m tired of people highlighting bad contractors. If you hired a bad one it’s most likely your fault. Don’t go for the cheapest estimate. Make sure they are licensed, insured and check references. It’s not hard to find a good one. There are plenty if you look. Funny how people don’t question the cost of their medical bills, dentist, mechanics, HVAC, Heating, Plumbing or Electricians but a.ways want to try to haggle with the Carpenters. Sorry for the rant but it’s all true.
@@michaelbeury4751 I've been ripped off too many times by contractors to accept this argument. You guys all say the same thing as though paying top dollar guarantees great results. Horseshit. What this guy did isn't going to cause the kinds of disasters you're implying. He's not claiming to be a pro, he's not trying to set any land speed records, he's just showing how he did it and it will work just fine.
@@erichsh58 nonsense. You were ripped off because you didn’t do your homework. It’s that simple. It’s not about top dollar. It’s about references and making sure the company is legit. Clearly you failed to do that not once but multiple times. So I reject your argument.
@@michaelbeury4751 In other words, homeowners beware of all the crooks and scammers in your industry, including HVAC and plumbers. And there are lots of them. I did find a good electrician once. Dealing with contractors is worse than getting a root canal.
Great video ..2 thoughts .. perhaps you could have prepped the metal seating cleaned it, antirust paint etc. ..that crack in the 🪵 what about some S shaped crimps( S - irons) that you hammer across the crack to stop it opening more
Nice job on replacing that rotted support post. The problem I'm having is locating the same jack you have there in the video. The jack you have on your list is an ordinary scissor jack for an automobile, what I'm worried about is what kind of support that will give me when having a 4x4 suspended right above it? Where can I purchase a scissor jack similar to the one you have there in the video?
Better to do a lap joint. Or if going for a tongue and groove you should put the tongue on the lower piece facing up so you don’t have a water flow path and trap. This fix is going to rot fast…
Sure made a hard task out of a simple job, mate. Next time try a half lap joint, at least 12" long, 24" even better. Glue and bolt together with a minimum of two coach bolts, at least 3/8" in diameter, 1/2" better, with galv or stainless washers and nuts. Also cut the rotten wood away about three feet above the highest visible rot line, 2" just isn't enough, the fungus that causes the rot is still there, you just can't see it. And just for the record, Tite-bond isn't wood filler, it doesn't really work for that purpose very well unless you mix it with some sort of binder, like saw dust or talc. Next time, try epoxy putty, or even better, a new piece of lumber instead of the scraps you would usually cut off the end of your repair piece. Ironically, Tite-bond III would probably have done a decent job as an end grain sealer.
Structurally, this method weakens the post against lateral movement. The proper way to splice would be to use a 4 sides metal sleeve and cut the ends flat. Easier fix also.
At 16:43, I see a black work table apparently made of plastic. Could you provide a name and perhaps a link to it? Many thanks. Really appreciate seeing this video.
I did (2 posted like that all I did jack up old post I put (2 lag bolts up inside old one build a cement small form around the bottom poured cement even with the old post now cement on the bottom
I seen a few negative comments on here but I didn't come here to see a new freaking post installed. I came here to brush up on my mathematical, measurement, cutting and innovative skills. I guess I'm different.
Its an interesting approach, though realistically the whole post should be replaced, and the saddle needs to fit it. Moisture will get in the joins, and rot it quickly. As its only a pergola not much wind pressure/weight, but it still may be a bit unsafe rather than a properly fastened single post.
On my gazebo, I just cut 3 inches off the bottom of each post which made the whole thing a little lower. To slow down rot I soaked the bottom of each post in borate wood preservative dissolved in old antifreeze.
Growing up, I've learned to use Treated wood to avoid water damage. I don't like pine, or any of the regular home Depot products that won't work for longer lasting posts. Either, I'd use Redwood or Railroad lumber thats been treated. I'd even place a protective metal cover piece all around the post, then paint it. If you live in an area where it rains a lot, using regular pine or cheaper lumber cuts, forget it. Mind you, that's me, everyone has their own methods. I don't mind the video but, I know that brace won't last.
I am a total newbie at this stuff. But I am confused that you are using a replacement wood block that is old and it has a big split already. Doesn't seem safe, doesn't seem like it will last too long. After all this work, wouldn't you want to use brand new wood?
The old block is an actual cut off from the original construction. I used it because it was the exact size of the post massage. It’s hard to buy 2 feet of a 8 x 8 post and I didn’t wanna pay for the whole 8 foot section. Being resourceful is something that’s necessary in a DIY project.
In the rotten tennon use wicking epoxy to get the strength you desire. Doing all the cuts in place is difficult. Perhaps set up a temp support, remove the post do all the necessary joinery. Then replace. Easier on the back & knees.
Perhaps a Shou Sugi Ban treatment on both upper and lower sections then a good soaking penetration of a liquid wood preserver before assembly. I'm a believer in using both belt and braces (suspenders) ;-))
Turn the post upside down and put the good end down. Cut the top to fit where it has to fit and bolt a "sister" it if necessary to,support the load. About a 2 hour job.
for all the trouble to cut & fit , also the way of support beam not worth to fooling around , just replace the entire column, safer , easier, and times saving,
That's a pretty big piece of constructional timber ...... which is going to be EXPENSIVE. To buy a whole new length for the sake of a foot or so of rot at the bottom would appear to me to be extremely wasteful and certainly something I wouldn't consider for a moment.
First car jack to lift support with another pillar 2/4 then chain saw. Mold for concrete. Wooden box. Fill it. Let it cure. Lower reattach the shoe placed in concrete. Attached. BAM bam have you safe secured pillar. Inexpensive fixed
That's what I would have done, but I'm not sure it would have looked so great. It would always look like a repair. If he fills in the seams with the same color as the wood and gets creative witha little stain and a rag, it can blend so not to be noticed eaily.
Was that three days to fix, ? Your carpentry was pants, there was a packer on top of the new block, and the whole thing appeared to be off centre. And shoe repair adhesive? And it looked like a dogs dinner. Apart from that, it’ll work for a while.😊
Since the post is a main load bearer, I would make a more stable structure to lift/support the whole structure before the repairing. The bearing capacity of the 4x4 seems not bad, but just not stable to me, pretty dangerous.
With all the labor involved it very likely would have been more cost effective to just replace all the posts. However, if it is your house you may choose to do it yourself and save a few dollars.
I guess it'll work, but it looks like a lot of work to do it better for more money. Like the tie is for a 4x4 and its connected to a 6x6. Just seems like making it all the way new might make more sense.
As you already removed the rotted portion, why don’t put a new bracket or paint it with rust proof paint, also the new portion must stained to prevent rotted again.
No way could he replace the bracket. I've been there. Judging from the extent of the rot, the bolt at the bottom that holds the Simpson strong tie bracket would shear off if he tried to unscrew the tie-down nut. It's a pretty bad builder that didn't use pressure treated wood to begin with, particularly in areas with frequent rainfall.
Hopefully you can get a skilled carpenter, instead of someone like this that made this video. The tools he was using were just inadequate and slowed down the time it should've taken for the project.
If you ever decide to re-approach this project, you might want to consider using a scarf joint. You might end up using a longer piece, but it would be a stronger repair that will allow for replacement if it rots again. Just my 2 cents or is it 5 with inflation?
You are persistent, Sir! I’m too lazy to attempt that. I had a similar problem, so my answer was to replace the thing with a decorative steel wrought iron post. Kudos to you and your determination.
As a retired DIYer I’m all about saving $$ on new post even if repair takes longer. Thanks for posting this!
TIME is always more valuable than money. As the saying goes: penny-wise and dollar-foolish
@@OscarRodSeedsofG (penny wise and pound foolish) (:
Sure if you only charge 2.00 an hr. 🙄
Did you really say “posting?” Was the pun intentional?
@@jp325abn, only if you are British.
I'm a timberframe repairman. There is a great reason why I've never seen this done before. Could just repaired it with liquid wood. Probably would've lasted longer. Kudos for trying though. Red some comments and there was some good suggestions. Replace whole post, use the right base, use correct species of wood, support the work. I would recommend if you had to fix the bottom of a post, use a 16" - 24" half-lap joint, bolted together, no shims. This joint will rot twice as fast as the original ( or faster). Don't mean to be "that guy" but this helps no one and may get someone killed. Hire a pro if you don't know.
I came here to say what you did. I've replaced the bottom of posts in the past. Cut in a half-lap. As I was watching the first few minutes here I wondered why he made the initial cut so low and didn't give himself some room to work.
@@budm9982 Good point. I appreciate anyone "who tries", but in this day and age you can easiley find the right way to do anything. I do barn beam post with a half lap for one reason. It's how the old timers did it. That's the school I learned from.
Looks like crap
Pro tip: don’t make dangerous videos.
@@soundrew true that. Back in the day I didn't even want a cam-corder on site.
It seems easy or completely feasible when you show and explain in a good and clear way. Thank you very much.
I like how you clean up frequently. I do too. I hate working in a mess.
Great work, I have changed a post, instead of doing the massive work. it could be useful but requires all kinds of tools. I will keep this method as a good possibility.
You did a great job. I'm a welder as opposed to a woodworker. I think, I would have built an extension for the metal portion. After a good cleanup and some zinc primer, you could fit the upper portion as needed and attach it to the fresh cut on the support. Welders tend to over-engineer everything. Your method was a great way to do it and you displayed the patience to achieve your objective. Once again.....great plan, good job.
very interesting, do you have a video of it?
I probably would have replaced it with a metal post lol. Em 63 and thats too much work😅. But i get it. The woodworking lesson from this video is good to know. Thanks for posting.
That was amazing wood workmanship and the end results spot on
Great job, now to stain as close to the original as you can. Thanks for the video
In reading the comments, I’m reminded of why I’ve not been OFF of FB for approximately 7 yrs now. Many negative comments from guys who I bet have probably never built anything and probably don’t even own a circular saw. There is more than one way to skin a cat, which is often missed by those who are critical and void of real world experience. I applaud your video , Great Job Sir!
How true. I just ignore the a**holes. Er trolls.
He spent a week on a job that would take an hour with a new post. HELLO
@@vinceedwards575 My posts go through the deck and support my railing. And when the builders of my house built the deck they put the posts in the same way as his are sitting on the lower patio. After 24 years they are starting to show signs of rotting. I was wondering what I was going to do to repair them if I am still in the house at that time. Kudo's to him for showing me an idea.
@@DIYHGP there are many professional carpenters and builders such as myself who watch this video that aren't ignorant or assholes who still say that you did that in a very wrong and unsafe way and it is not going to last you should have done it right if you were going to do it.
@@bobbyhempel1513 Considering he was able to support the structure with a pair of 2x4s and a car jack, considering how little weight that post is carrying, you tell me what is so critically unsafe about it.
Being a painter for years, I suggest using a water sealer that soaks up into the wood. It will dry and keeps water out. Good quality sealer will last for years and can be recoated from time to time.
You must soak many coats into the end grain, 6+ would be reasonable... Plus the connection was poorly done and needed sealed glued. The fellow has good intentions but needs to be guided by an experienced Amish carpenter or equal... Cedar is weak relatively too. The metal base should have either been replaced or cleaned and treated with rust inhibitor. Oh well
Glues and epoxy work better than sealer. Especially the tight bond and shoe goo. Tight bond is the best glue and sealant for would on the market. The liquid sealer is cheaper for a reason.
I have seen someone do this with a chainsaw, remarkable job, he took the cut 2ft from the floor and used what we call a sky Jack to support the roof. Used the same method for jointing too, saved a heap of cash.
Nice job you did! Thank yo for your time!
Spends a week on a job instead of an hour with a new post. WOW
It's obvious you aren't retired. LOL
Right. You would waltz in there, do the whole job in one hour, and charge him $1500 for it.
@@erichsh58you clearly aren’t in construction. You pay for experience. Not time.
Clearly as you can see in this post. He has time. Not talent. 😣
@@iSharpGaming He also did a perfectly acceptable job for about $15 worth of supplies rather than getting hosed by some crook contractor for 100 times that much.
You did a very nice job... more than enough for what it is supporting. A new full size 8x8 post is expensive, hard to find and super heavy to maneuver.
Thanks for the tip...I've got two 4x4 that have about two inches of wood rot at the bottom but you've given great ideas of where and how to start...thanks.
I learned a lot from your video. Since you had to go up higher, there is enough room to replace the Tico/ floor bracket with a bigger size. Thanks.
He would never get the bracket off. The nut is rusted so bad to the bolt embedded into the concrete that he would shear it off. Wow, what a mess that builder left.
Awesome Repair .....
I question the POST mount ?
Super! Would be great to have an example of how to use concrete instead of wood on the bottom part
Great job sir, 100 times better and safer now.
I like your idea. At today's prices, we have to do things different.
How did the finished joint have such a big gap? I thought it was all measured and test fitted to be a tight fit? What went wrong?
He left that gap deliberately, assuming the post would settle down and close it once he removed that scissors jack. But that post wasn't carrying much weight to begin with. He could have removed the jack once he cut the bottom of the post out and it wouldn't have moved much at all.
Settling
Impressive thorough job well done!
I've been doing home repairs, painting, ground up construction in South Texas since the mid-70's, and you can label me as lazy. That said, I'd have either 1) replaced the entire post, coated the bottom with creosote or tar, put some sort of composite trim around the base after totally filling that 1" space with pool caulk, OR, 2) remove the post and do all that cutting on sawhorses. But, like I said, I'm lazy.
Totally agreed 🤣👍🙏
Suggest using ground contact rated wood.
For goodness sake. The negative comments. It isn't like he is building a footing for a sky scraper.Nice job sir. It will work.
The negative comments are warranted. Everybody today wants a pat on the back for just trying. Sorry but right is right. This isn’t right. Doing things the wrong way is dangerous. Hire a pro if you don’t know. And I’m tired of people highlighting bad contractors. If you hired a bad one it’s most likely your fault. Don’t go for the cheapest estimate. Make sure they are licensed, insured and check references. It’s not hard to find a good one. There are plenty if you look. Funny how people don’t question the cost of their medical bills, dentist, mechanics, HVAC, Heating, Plumbing or Electricians but a.ways want to try to haggle with the Carpenters. Sorry for the rant but it’s all true.
@@michaelbeury4751 I've been ripped off too many times by contractors to accept this argument. You guys all say the same thing as though paying top dollar guarantees great results. Horseshit. What this guy did isn't going to cause the kinds of disasters you're implying. He's not claiming to be a pro, he's not trying to set any land speed records, he's just showing how he did it and it will work just fine.
@@erichsh58 nonsense. You were ripped off because you didn’t do your homework. It’s that simple. It’s not about top dollar. It’s about references and making sure the company is legit. Clearly you failed to do that not once but multiple times. So I reject your argument.
@@michaelbeury4751 In other words, homeowners beware of all the crooks and scammers in your industry, including HVAC and plumbers. And there are lots of them. I did find a good electrician once. Dealing with contractors is worse than getting a root canal.
That’s social media for you. Everybody feels that being a jerk is their right. People comment like they would never do in person.
Undoubtedly, but, ingenious assignment. Thanks
Good job sir! It's your project 👍
Great video ..2 thoughts .. perhaps you could have prepped the metal seating cleaned it, antirust paint etc. ..that crack in the 🪵 what about some S shaped crimps( S - irons) that you hammer across the crack to stop it opening more
Looks Good, Great Job.
Nice piece of enginering worked out well kind regards to you
That was awesome!! Thank you for sharing.
Good work. Nice job.
What’s your opinion of using a multitool for some plunge cuts?
Bought a multitool recently, and use it everywhere!
Lots of great ideas on the video. Thanx bud!
See this Old House on repairing a post and use a scarf joint with timber screws. Might need a footing also.
I think you did a great job mister 👏
Good job bro!
Nice job on replacing that rotted support post. The problem I'm having is locating the same jack you have there in the video. The jack you have on your list is an ordinary scissor jack for an automobile, what I'm worried about is what kind of support that will give me when having a 4x4 suspended right above it? Where can I purchase a scissor jack similar to the one you have there in the video?
The saddle that’s installed is for a 4 x 4, first you should use the right saddle.
Absolutely not, you should have used the left saddle.
Wrong again. Should not have used a saddle at all.
@@roberthoy9922 That's right, he needs a stirrup.
A saddle or a stirrup? Are you people on drugs? Clearly the man neds to install a bridle.
Too much trouble to put in the correct one...
Just put a new post in. Simple.
Correct!!!
He did better than 99% of handymen!
how do you know?? have you ever seen anybody do this, to compare to??
@@abs828 ok
I belong in that 1% 😁😁😁
Very interesting repair.
I've never seen a spirit level used like that - bubble part way through the line and call it level 😂
noticed your fence posts are not the "normal" 4x4s - good idea - did the HOA approve? Mine calls for 4x4s.
👍Nice video of your work. And it seems to atract all the experts in the comments.
Better to do a lap joint. Or if going for a tongue and groove you should put the tongue on the lower piece facing up so you don’t have a water flow path and trap. This fix is going to rot fast…
I thought the same.
The joint you are making is called a mortise and tenon😊
Sure made a hard task out of a simple job, mate. Next time try a half lap joint, at least 12" long, 24" even better. Glue and bolt together with a minimum of two coach bolts, at least 3/8" in diameter, 1/2" better, with galv or stainless washers and nuts.
Also cut the rotten wood away about three feet above the highest visible rot line, 2" just isn't enough, the fungus that causes the rot is still there, you just can't see it.
And just for the record, Tite-bond isn't wood filler, it doesn't really work for that purpose very well unless you mix it with some sort of binder, like saw dust or talc. Next time, try epoxy putty, or even better, a new piece of lumber instead of the scraps you would usually cut off the end of your repair piece. Ironically, Tite-bond III would probably have done a decent job as an end grain sealer.
All that an still wrong. Replace the post and use the right bracket. Anything else is a literal hack.
Nice work. However, since timbers are vulnerable to rot after few years, why not use laminated post for bottom section?
Ottoman castle joint? Good video
Ok, nice work. I’ll be hiring someone to replace mine.😮😮😮😢😅😅😊
Also Thompsons deck seal from small 1 quart can poured in the crack also effective
Structurally, this method weakens the post against lateral movement. The proper way to splice would be to use a 4 sides metal sleeve and cut the ends flat. Easier fix also.
At 16:43, I see a black work table apparently made of plastic. Could you provide a name and perhaps a link to it? Many thanks. Really appreciate seeing this video.
Here is a link to one, amzn.to/47za2OI I dont think my model is made anymore.
@@DIYHGPThank you.👍
I did (2 posted like that all I did jack up old post I put (2 lag bolts up inside old one build a cement small form around the bottom poured cement even with the old post now cement on the bottom
I was thinking the same thing. Less than a bag of concreate.
I seen a few negative comments on here but I didn't come here to see a new freaking post installed. I came here to brush up on my mathematical, measurement, cutting and innovative skills. I guess I'm different.
Nice intelligent and well articulated comment, thank You!
That repair is short lived you will be faced with the same problem in short time just replace the pole
Its an interesting approach, though realistically the whole post should be replaced, and the saddle needs to fit it. Moisture will get in the joins, and rot it quickly. As its only a pergola not much wind pressure/weight, but it still may be a bit unsafe rather than a properly fastened single post.
On my gazebo, I just cut 3 inches off the bottom of each post which made the whole thing a little lower. To slow down rot I soaked the bottom of each post in borate wood preservative dissolved in old antifreeze.
Growing up, I've learned to use Treated wood to avoid water damage. I don't like pine, or any of the regular home Depot products that won't work for longer lasting posts. Either, I'd use Redwood or Railroad lumber thats been treated. I'd even place a protective metal cover piece all around the post, then paint it. If you live in an area where it rains a lot, using regular pine or cheaper lumber cuts, forget it. Mind you, that's me, everyone has their own methods. I don't mind the video but, I know that brace won't last.
Perhaps another 7yrs of life. It rains a lot in Texas.
By sealing the bottom, there is no escape for water. Instead, leave the bottom free of sealants,etc. so water can escape.
Nice work!
I am a total newbie at this stuff. But I am confused that you are using a replacement wood block that is old and it has a big split already. Doesn't seem safe, doesn't seem like it will last too long. After all this work, wouldn't you want to use brand new wood?
The old block is an actual cut off from the original construction. I used it because it was the exact size of the post massage. It’s hard to buy 2 feet of a 8 x 8 post and I didn’t wanna pay for the whole 8 foot section. Being resourceful is something that’s necessary in a DIY project.
Great point.
Find or buy a concrete solid block and cut old post to fit above? Make a form and pour it if needed?
In the rotten tennon use wicking epoxy to get the strength you desire. Doing all the cuts in place is difficult. Perhaps set up a temp support, remove the post do all the necessary joinery. Then replace. Easier on the back & knees.
I love how this project came out! Very good planning. Thank you for sharing!
It looks like shit.
Perhaps a Shou Sugi Ban treatment on both upper and lower sections then a good soaking penetration of a liquid wood preserver before assembly. I'm a believer in using both belt and braces (suspenders) ;-))
Wow everyone here is an expert
Reciprocal saw. Its the most used tools ive owned 👀 .
I did this the very same way. However for continuity I replaced the whole post no joint.
Use the proper size bracket to secure the thing. Simpson makes a 6” post bracket.
did you add a spacer? looks like a ¼" spacer on one side
Yeah, or there would have been a quarter inch gap on one side. No bueno.
Turn the post upside down and put the good end down. Cut the top to fit where it has to fit and bolt a "sister" it if necessary to,support the load. About a 2 hour job.
@@w3jdr that’s a very creative solution
Not sure about your uplift is ok on the roof above?
for all the trouble to cut & fit , also the way of support beam not worth to fooling around , just replace the entire column, safer , easier, and times saving,
Even if you want to be a cheapskate, don’t be ridiculous, and take the darn post off to work on it in the shop. What a bozo.
That's a pretty big piece of constructional timber ...... which is going to be EXPENSIVE. To buy a whole new length for the sake of a foot or so of rot at the bottom would appear to me to be extremely wasteful and certainly something I wouldn't consider for a moment.
Yep and then put the repair up at top out of eye line
what is constructional timber? Never heard that before. Do you mean structural lumber?
First car jack to lift support with another pillar 2/4 then chain saw. Mold for concrete. Wooden box. Fill it. Let it cure. Lower reattach the shoe placed in concrete. Attached. BAM bam have you safe secured pillar. Inexpensive fixed
That's what I would have done, but I'm not sure it would have looked so great. It would always look like a repair. If he fills in the seams with the same color as the wood and gets creative witha little stain and a rag, it can blend so not to be noticed eaily.
That was cool
Was that three days to fix, ? Your carpentry was pants, there was a packer on top of the new block, and the whole thing appeared to be off centre. And shoe repair adhesive? And it looked like a dogs dinner. Apart from that, it’ll work for a while.😊
Easy fix. Half a day 4-6 hours most. Done many... Laughed when he said. Here we ate the next morning....
Since the post is a main load bearer, I would make a more stable structure to lift/support the whole structure before the repairing. The bearing capacity of the 4x4 seems not bad, but just not stable to me, pretty dangerous.
I like it!
Why did you use already cracked timber block at the bottom?
It was the original offcut
I think replacing the entire post and correct base would have been a lot easier
Good idea, but I think I would fit a new post or build a concrete peer.
Thanks for the tip. God bless.
With all the labor involved it very likely would have been more cost effective to just replace all the posts. However, if it is your house you may choose to do it yourself and save a few dollars.
How much do you charge for something like that?? Please let me know ASAP 😊
I bought a 3/8" cutting board and cut a piece to fit under the metal bracket so my post was high enough to not allow significant wicking....
nice one
I guess it'll work, but it looks like a lot of work to do it better for more money. Like the tie is for a 4x4 and its connected to a 6x6. Just seems like making it all the way new might make more sense.
Is that an 8x8? How much would a new 8x8x12 cost if you could even find one?
Cool, I would coat and Epoxy with "West System Epoxy"
Id have , in addition to the Titebond glue, have put some large bolts across the crack.
Good job and thanks for sharing
As you already removed the rotted portion, why don’t put a new bracket or paint it with rust proof paint, also the new portion must stained to prevent rotted again.
No way could he replace the bracket. I've been there. Judging from the extent of the rot, the bolt at the bottom that holds the Simpson strong tie bracket would shear off if he tried to unscrew the tie-down nut. It's a pretty bad builder that didn't use pressure treated wood to begin with, particularly in areas with frequent rainfall.
So if I wanted to get a contractor to do that work , who would I call ? I have 4 4X4 porch posts that are rotting the same way at the base ...
Hopefully you can get a skilled carpenter, instead of someone like this that made this video. The tools he was using were just inadequate and slowed down the time it should've taken for the project.
Nice
Slightly jack up the roof, remove and replace with treated post will last much longer and safer.
I cringed...I laughed...I shook my head. I've read most of the comments....the good news is, there WILL be a PART 2 to this.. : )
If you ever decide to re-approach this project, you might want to consider using a scarf joint. You might end up using a longer piece, but it would be a stronger repair that will allow for replacement if it rots again. Just my 2 cents or is it 5 with inflation?