Great video as always! Glad you "caught" that unit with your arm and not your jaw. Springs are scary! But i guess most of the tension here turned out to be the stabilizer.
I think it's recommended to tighten the bolts on the arm with the weight of the car loaded, since you otherwise will have tension on the rubber and they will prematurely wear out.
It is very difficult to put weight back on and then access those bolts. But you are right it matters what position the A-arm is torqued in for longevity of bushings. All that is needed is to set the new A-Arm in the same position the old one was, after the steering knuckle is removed from the ball joint with the bushing bolts on the mount still tight. Depending on the year of the Model 3 Tesla even has a special tool/gauge to set it correct. On the earlier 3's eyeballing will do.
Thank you for sharing :) Sorry no ideas but think im like you like try to understand things and try it for myself but in the end next time I realy think twice then might take it in alwsys a special tool or sime puzzle to figure out. Would have a sceond floor jack or stand when working. Great video respect everything you try/do and post.
Hi Duane, Thank You. No ideas - no problem. I can always come up with something, many times it's something stupid 🤣🤣, but as long as long as we keep going and are still learning we are doing good. Thank You for watching👍
Hi, in August I have done the same job on my model S on both sides, cutting the bolts (electric saw) very slow or the heat burn it, it's a hard job to do at home and a big back pain in the end. 37:36
Hi, yeah that part was pretty bad. I assumed the “Torch” (that’s what the saw blade was called) would make that easy. So much for assumptions 🤣. That new grinder was a miracle. Thank you for watching 👍
After 200K miles, a little suspension knock here or there on any brand is not unusual. My Dodge was constantly going through control arms and tie-rod ends with much fewer miles. I was surprised by how clean and easy that was after all the years and rural Montana winters!
Jack stands have a very small surface they stand on, meaning pressure per square inch is really high. On gravel like we have that does not work at all. Would have had to put wood blocks under jack stands, chances of that falling over are much greater than using floor jacks with high rating and large spread out surface. I have seen many jacks stands fail. With the rear wheel sitting on blocks it's much safer than using jack stands back there. Also if the vehicle is lifted in the proper spot no jack stand could be placed on that spot anymore, so jack stand would have had to go on the subframe somewhere which also is not a great solution.
Great video as always!
Glad you "caught" that unit with your arm and not your jaw.
Springs are scary! But i guess most of the tension here turned out to be the stabilizer.
Yes, smart move would have been lifting the other side right away in the beginning.
I think it's recommended to tighten the bolts on the arm with the weight of the car loaded, since you otherwise will have tension on the rubber and they will prematurely wear out.
It is very difficult to put weight back on and then access those bolts. But you are right it matters what position the A-arm is torqued in for longevity of bushings. All that is needed is to set the new A-Arm in the same position the old one was, after the steering knuckle is removed from the ball joint with the bushing bolts on the mount still tight. Depending on the year of the Model 3 Tesla even has a special tool/gauge to set it correct. On the earlier 3's eyeballing will do.
Thank you for sharing :) Sorry no ideas but think im like you like try to understand things and try it for myself but in the end next time I realy think twice then might take it in alwsys a special tool or sime puzzle to figure out.
Would have a sceond floor jack or stand when working.
Great video respect everything you try/do and post.
Hi Duane, Thank You. No ideas - no problem. I can always come up with something, many times it's something stupid 🤣🤣, but as long as long as we keep going and are still learning we are doing good.
Thank You for watching👍
Hi, in August I have done the same job on my model S on both sides, cutting the bolts (electric saw) very slow or the heat burn it, it's a hard job to do at home and a big back pain in the end. 37:36
Hi, yeah that part was pretty bad. I assumed the “Torch” (that’s what the saw blade was called) would make that easy. So much for assumptions 🤣. That new grinder was a miracle.
Thank you for watching 👍
Teslas seem to have a lot of suspension noises, not just the S, all of them.
You're right. We already repaired the Model 3 common suspension noise. We don't have a Model X or we would be fixing that suspension too😂
After 200K miles, a little suspension knock here or there on any brand is not unusual. My Dodge was constantly going through control arms and tie-rod ends with much fewer miles.
I was surprised by how clean and easy that was after all the years and rural Montana winters!
No jack stands was a dumb move. All the money you are saving by doing job yourself would have gone to lifelong medical expenses.
Jack stands have a very small surface they stand on, meaning pressure per square inch is really high. On gravel like we have that does not work at all. Would have had to put wood blocks under jack stands, chances of that falling over are much greater than using floor jacks with high rating and large spread out surface. I have seen many jacks stands fail. With the rear wheel sitting on blocks it's much safer than using jack stands back there. Also if the vehicle is lifted in the proper spot no jack stand could be placed on that spot anymore, so jack stand would have had to go on the subframe somewhere which also is not a great solution.