Here's a list of affiliate links to the parts I used in this video: Ceramic Brake Pads: amzn.to/3WBBGbQ Brake Lube: amzn.to/3UVLfkF Brake Parts Cleaner: amzn.to/3wjhyAB Fluid Film: amzn.to/3K1edch Iron Remover: amzn.to/3UCrSeL Dielectric Grease: amzn.to/3JVfXnr Push Pin Pliers: amzn.to/3JWa61c Hand Cleaning Wipes: amzn.to/4bx8mYg Battery Terminal Brush: amzn.to/3QzVzw8 And big thanks to Peter at EvPartsGuy.com for hooking me up with the fenders! Feel free to give him a call if you need any new or used parts and tell him I said hi!
those ceramic Pads will kill your Rotor (Rust streaks). Had ATE Ceramic on my BMW (ICE). I also assume that the Tesla pads are already “ceramic” anyway (low dust).
It's common for cars with electric parking brakes to require a scan tool to activate the caliper retraction function. On cars with a manual integrated parking brake, you have to rewind the caliper with a tool that engages something on the face of the caliper to turn it. You literally screw the piston into the caliper. I suspect that your Model 3 requires a rewind tool as there's a couple of divots in the piston face that a tool could engage to turn it.
To answer your question: I just want more videos - long or short. You’re an incredibly clear, concise, and informative teacher. At this point I’ll watch anything you post, no matter the length. Someone suggested you do a video on clearing out the incredible amount of junk that collects between your condenser and radiator. A friend and I did our cars and it was quite challenging and I don’t think we did as thorough a job as we could have. I’d love to see a video on that. Thanks so much for these videos, Adam!
Great and regular video. I have a few additions. Remember to take off those spring clips at the rear brakes, rust will come under them. I didn’t see any torque wrench was used on the wheel nuts it is important to use specific torque I think it is 175nm. And lastly take care of your skin and use gloves. Great job 👍
This is the first video of yours that I have seen - and I will be watching more for certain. I don't have a Tesla, and don't want one, but I AM interested in the technology. I found your presentation, accuracy and thoroughness to be engaging, and will certainly watch more of your videos. You refer to the longer format of this video?.. Well I for one am happy with the duration. TTFN
22:45 Battery Terminals If you don’t have any dielectric grease, one thing that I always used to use when I owned that acid batteries in cars was a 5050 mixture (by volume ) of petroleum jelly and baking soda. Mix it into paste, applied to all layers, reinstall the terminal clamp, and never worry about your battery terminals again.
Wow. Just wow. Thanks Adam, great content! Maybe long videos for this type of content, and a shorter one for follow ups? For example, what's your verdict on the ceramic brakes?
What a great informative video. Your cars cop a lot of punishment over there from corrosion. I'm in Australia where we (for the most part) have nowhere near the same issues. My 2008 car looks newer than your Model 3. Just a couple of constructive criticisms I'd like to add to your otherwise great presentation. - I know you highlighted installing the same type of pads in each axle set, and I highly recommend you do (same type front and rear). I've been down that path and can assure you it can really upset brake bias in heavy braking by having softer and harder compounds. - Dielectric grease is supposed to be non conductive. Instead use a Battery Terminal protective product as there's many available, and put it on the corroded terminal nut on your negative terminal too. - The Negative terminal is already normally connected to frame, so shorting it to the frame doesn't matter. However never put a metal tool on the positive terminal of your battery until the negative terminal is disconnected and not touching. That way if you short the positive terminal to frame nothing will happen. Then you just have to ensure that you don't short out the two battery terminals together with the tool. Keep up the great videos.
Regarding the brake bias of mismatched pads, do you think the imbalance from pads is more than the imbalance from surface rust on the rotors or from a puddle that only hits one side of the car? Regarding the dielectric grease, I'd encourage you to watch this short (2.5 minutes) testing exactly this: ua-cam.com/video/G3_mj0c_-QY/v-deo.html If you don't have time now, the takeaway is that dielectric grease does not affect conductivity. If anything, it actually IMPROVES conductivity slightly! If I could film it again I'd apply more to the outside of the connection, but the contact itself is the most important thing to protect imo. My tube specifically calls out battery terminals as one of its intended uses. Does that make sense? Great tip on the negative terminal, I thought I was surrounded by plastic but there are some metal AC lines right there. Really appreciate you taking the time to share your expertise!
@@adamdport In my experience after replacing only the rear with "performance" pads I had issues where the ABS kicked in early under heavy braking due to change in bias. I replaced the front with the same pads and the problem went away. A few years later on a different car I was upgrading all the pads and only replaced the rear at first to see if the same thing happened, which it did. In day to day driving you wont notice it, but under heavy or emergency braking you probably will. Regarding Dielectric grease, I'm only going by my experience of 39 years as an industrial electrician working on thousands of high current connections. Dielectric grease is used by many people like that, but it's intended purpose is to seal a connection, and not conduct electricity (hence di-electric). The contact should be metal to metal, then apply corrosion inhibitor the outside if needed. It's ok if the terminal is tight, but if it comes loose the dielectric grease will hinder more than help.
Glad you're making videos! The brake pad rusting to the rotor thing was something that didn't happen on my 2018, 2019, or my new Model Y, but I did own a 2021 M3P for a couple of years that I bought used in late 2022 and it had that happen. I live in Florida so not a dry place (esp during the summer, where it rains every afternoon). My 2021 M3P would get the pads rusting to the rotor after every wash, and the rotors were visibly rusted - something I haven't observed on my other Teslas (though I have had other cars that would get rusty rotors after a wash). Not sure why that used M3P had this happen. My new MYP's rotors don't rust, just like my other Teslas.
That's interesting, Tesla's parts catalog doesn't show that the part numbers have changed on the rotors or pads. Do you drive the others more? Do you use the brake pedal more often in the others to keep the rotors clean? It's possible that your pads are dragging a little so the rotors stay warm, could be that? If you're curious, you're welcome to try to reproduce it in the others using the tow mode and water method I showed in this video, I'd love to hear if they're somehow immune. Thanks for the data point!
@@adamdport As far as behavior goes, no differences really. I generally avoid using the brakes as much as possible, though I know FSD/AP tends to use them more than I would. I'm pretty sure on all of the cars, I can hear the pads rubbing on the rotors at least for a few moments after driving for the first time in a little while. The only thing I can think of is the previous owner of my 2021 tracked the car or did something with it that caused the difference - pretty sure it was a florida car its whole life and only had 8k miles on it when I bought it. My 2018 had 50k on it when I got rid of it in 2022 and our 2019 currently has 58k on it - the 2019 doesn't even have the benefit of the carport I park my cars under, it's always exposed to the rain and such, but never gets rusty rotors either.
great vid. liked the longer format very informative (Assume you had jack stands out of frame, Always use jack stands, there is a $0.10 o-ring in the jack keeping it up, toomany have been injured by them failing)
What about galvanic corrosion, which occurs when two dissimilar metals are exposed to an electrolyte? When the car is made of steel an aluminum, and some salt water there in the winter, that could be a big problem, no?
I genuinely value your videos. Regarding your request to the audience, I lean towards longer videos. However, shorter ones could cater better to viewers seeking specific categories (like searching for a particular video title from your collection). Also, avoiding bundling several topics into one video might help you discern which titles pique the most interest among your audience.
Wow, this is a really useful channel for owners of a tesla model 3 or future (maybe) owners. I'm probably buying a Model 3 Highland and I'm just curious if it is a good investment.
I don't think you're even going to save money, let alone make money, so I wouldn't consider it a "good investment". You can get gas sedans for less than half the price with great mileage. EVs are really fun though!
Well I do have a dual problem solver for you so solve the rust problem and add sound deadning I my self on my model3 performance used second skins demolisher spray liner that prevents rust and sound deading the road noise
I'm not much of a fan of spray liners-I've seen too many videos showing them holding moisture against the metal and making things way worse. Can't speak to yours, never heard of it. Hope it works for you!
13:55 i think you mean, I think it's supposed to retract the parking brake thing all the way so that I CAN push the piston back all the way but it didn't work for me. I might have mistakenly left the EPB unplugged or something? Not sure. It made a bunch of noise but still wouldn't let me push the piston back in
Guide pins are fine with silicone based lubricants, but things like your brake pads should only used metallic based lubricants. Daily driving, you should be fine with using an aluminum anti-seize, whereas with more aggressive driving you will want a copper anti-seize. Silicone based lubricant is not meant for high temp parts.
Anti-seize is not meant to be used as a lubricant or on anything that moves-it's just meant to keep stuff from seizing so you can disassemble it later. It can also cake up, wash off, etc. The stuff I used says it can be used everywhere I used it on, including boots and pads. It is specifically formulated for extreme temperatures up to 3000°F, about double that of anti-seize. Does that make sense or did I misunderstand you? there's a list of affiliate links in the description, but here's just the lube: amzn.to/3UVLfkF
I did yea. It was the middle of the road one-not the premium one but not the cheap one either. No complaints so far, I guess they had some legal beef with snap on over the jacks being essentially identical to theirs
Dielectric grease is an insulator not a conductor so therefore should not be used on battery terminals. There is a specific product sold for battery terminals.
I'd encourage you to watch this short (2.5 minutes) testing exactly this: ua-cam.com/video/G3_mj0c_-QY/v-deo.html If you don't have time now, the takeaway is that dielectric grease does not affect conductivity. If anything, it actually IMPROVES conductivity slightly! There's a ton of conflicting info online but imo this test puts the myth to rest. If I could film it again I'd apply more to the outside of the connection, but the contact itself is the most important thing to protect imo. Does that make sense?
@@adamdport Makes sense, if it was perfect insulator (which it's not) your battery wouldn't be connected in circuit anymore. However, I think you could use anything like oil, grease or petroleum jelly and get a similar result as the clamping force is removing it from the connecting area and maybe removing an air gap. My point is, like any tool you should use the right one for the job. They have terminal connector spray, but if an insulating grease fixes a problem that existed for you, that's fine. I've not had problems with terminals on a car since owning one's from the 70's and 80's, I didn't think it was an issue anymore.. Great videos, I think I'll buy the commander and S3XY knob when we get our Model Y, I see it can also re-engage auto pilot automatically after using the turn signal. ua-cam.com/video/n6IekMX4DvE/v-deo.html
There should be three types of grease: A ceramic one for the brake pads to slide along the housing A silicone based one for the slider pins so it doesn't corrode the rubber An anti-seize for the back of the pad
The stuff I used says it can be used everywhere I used it on, even boots. It is specifically formulated for extreme temperatures up to 3000°F, about double that of anti-seize.
I won't be doing any maintenance on my Tesla because I live in Peoria, Az and nothing ever rusts here, we have no salt on the roads either. The car will last until I die.
Grinding the pads is a bad idea. Loose pads rattle and can jam in place. A few strokes with a file are more than enough followed by a smear of anti-seize paste on the edge only.
I used the wire wheel just to remove the rust, I'm not removing any material. Anti-seize is not meant to be used as a lubricant or on anything that moves-it's just meant to keep stuff from seizing so you can disassemble it later. It can also cake up, wash off, etc. Does that make sense or did I misunderstand you?
The stuff I used shows caliper pins as its first "suggested applications" and goes on to say that it's safe for brake rubber. Here's an affiliate link if you wanted to try it out! amzn.to/3UVLfkF
⚠25:21 WRONG! it only reacts with edges of particles. they still need to be mechanically dislodged and removed with clay-bar/mitt. search for lab video from Stoner Car Care where they show it under microscope and compare theirs against other manufacturers.
I do own a synthetic clay pad and you're right, I'd absolutely use it before applying ceramic coating or whatever else, but this wasn't meant to be a detailing video-I just wanted to call out the rust spots since a lot of people are concerned when they see them. Didn't mean any offense, just a lighthearted joke. Sorry for the delay in replying to this! But while I'm writing, I'm curious if your experience you think that there are any coatings that reduce fallout? Or is it inevitable?
Very interesting. My 2022 model 3 now has 70,000 miles and I live in a heavy road salt area as well. Changing my winter tires over to summer I also take apart my brakes to clean and lubricate them. This year I noticed surface rust pitting all over the steel mono structure. Now that I see how easy it is to remove the whole fender liner I’m going to go back an apply a thin coat of that wax you used.
I appreciated how accessible this was for someone without any experience doing this kind of thing. I _almost_ feel like I could follow the steps myself, but I'll probably still use professionals to be safe :-)
FWIW the "professionals" that replaced my battery under warranty took not one, not two, but FIVE trips to finish the job. After the fourth, I inspected their work and noticed that they straight up lost a bolt while replacing the ground cable. While making this video I discovered that they broke one of the tabs on that red terminal cover. It honestly would have taken me LESS time for a better job had I just done it myself! Just because it's someone's profession doesn't mean they're a professional, and even if they have experience (not a guarantee), that doesn't mean they're competent. You can always pay someone to inspect your work, or find a gearhead who'd watch over your shoulder while you get comfortable. I hope this helps you find the confidence to start this new hobby!
Aside from some very basic knowledge I picked up in an auto mechanics class in high school, I had no real experience working on cars growing up. I wanted to learn, though, and started taking on basic repairs and upgrades (oil changes, brake jobs, stereo swaps, etc.) using UA-cam and other online resources (car forums can be a great resource as well). I’m still only a basic DIYer, but it’s nice to be able to tackle small jobs on your own. I personally plan for jobs to take 2x - 3x longer than may be stated online or you think it ought to take, especially if it’s your first time doing it. Go slow, be careful, and double check your work. Expect to encounter frustrations along the way, but try to roll with the punches and you will learn a lot along the way and be able to take pride in doing things yourself.
Your M3 is the same year and similar mileage as mine. In service mode, I suggest you run a "Thermal System Performance Test". Your test will likely fail. Then remove your frunk tub and check how much crap is in your radiator/condenser. I think you'll have a nice future video cleaning it coming up! ;) You will need to remove the bumper and slide out the fan shroud to properly get to the condenser to clean it.
I’m looking forward to seeing his video on that! A friend and I did it in his 2018 TM3 and it was pretty challenging and we disassembled a few things we didn’t have to, and I felt like we forced a few things that maybe we didn’t have to. So I can’t wait to watch his video on cleaning the radiator and condenser.
Yeah not sure what the right process was, I also had to force a few parts to get enough room. In the end it works and my AC is working like new again and not sounding like a jet engine at takeoff
I just cleaned mine out today. I didn’t do the best job, just pried the cover back and vacuumed it out. I wasn’t prepared to take the bumper off or removed the radiator mounting bolts. I had never done it before and am at 60k miles, and was shocked how clogged it was. The fans had been running really loudly for hours and hours this summer. I cleaned all that crap out and now they aren’t spinning as hard or as frequently.
Those presentations are so well prepared… also, the tone and talking speed is very well delivered and it helps international audience; I am not in the Tesla family; (Ioniq 5 & 6) but I enjoy all of his presentations. What is good for Tesla is also good for Hyundai; thank you for all those little details…! And have a nice day, 👌
I really like the idea of Tesla adding a brake maintenance schedule/mode/whatever. I have to change out my front rotors soon since they've gotten all rusted up on the edges from non-use, but this happened before they added the low-regen-braking-assist option. I'm hoping the new set won't have that issue. Your ceramic rear pad experiment is really promising; it would be great if you gave us an update on how they behave over the summer!
There's a rubber plug in each fender well can be removed to spray the inside of the rocker panel with fluid film. Doirectric grease is an excellent insulator and water repellent; apply it over the outside of an installed battery terminal - to keep moisture away from the inside. (Fluid Film does the same thing.)
Yes, absolutely! Doing that has worked very well for keeping the rockers intact on my 12 year old daily driver purchased new. I'm in western NY where the DOT does its best to keep the salt mines in business.
Adam, you are incredibly detailed and thorough! This is what sets you apart from other UA-camrs. Do not shorten these videos by skimping. I’m fine with your longer running times because I know I’m going to learn a lot. But you could experiment with breaking up some existing videos into “Part 1 of 4” with titles that tease the content of each. You could also lead your content description a link to full video. You do a great job. I’m excited when your videos come out!!
Thanks for this video! It reminds me I need to do my yearly brake service. After your video on the stinky AC issue, I installed the gasket product listed in the description (for my model Y) and I’ve not had any trouble since. I enjoyed the long format. Also liked the black and white “don’t do this” examples!
Thank you! These are the most informative, helpful, and easy-to-follow auto maintenance videos I’ve ever seen. Half the time I’m watching a UA-cam video I’m just listening while I play a game, but I watch every single frame of your videos. Tremendous signal-to-noise (info-to-filler) ratio.
Brake rotor maintenance mode is just doing a hard stop every once in a while. It doesn't take much. Even a couple hard stops from 30mph will polish them up. This also helps prevent the calipers/pads from sticking.
Very informative, thank you. Regarding the rear Caliper piston retraction. While you method worked, it should be noted, rear caliper pistons with built in parking brake actuators are normally reset by rotating the piston. They make a ratchet adapter that engages the V notches in the piston. It’s very inexpensive and can be purchased from your local AP store. Alternatively, you can sometimes use the pointed ends of a needle nose pliers. I which direction you turn it. Rotating one way or the other will show which way turns it in.
Nice video. I include evaporator and radiator cleaning too, Found why my cooling system was blowing hard and AC not optimally cooling due to debris caught in fins.
I'm astonished Tesla let's you access Service mode and there all these service tasks to do and information to peek! I always thought Tesla was more like Apple and is highly restrictive with their software (just like you can tinker with Android a lot more than with iPhone)
I love your videos. Thanks you so much for making them. Have you ever cleaned out your radiator coils??? I didn’t know that was something I should do and when I tried to do it today I found 70% was clogged with leaves, twigs, feathers, and dirt.
Love this video. Fantastic maintenance info. Question: Have you seen videos regarding cleaning the Tesla radiators? What are your thoughts and have you attempted that yet?
Here's a list of affiliate links to the parts I used in this video:
Ceramic Brake Pads: amzn.to/3WBBGbQ
Brake Lube: amzn.to/3UVLfkF
Brake Parts Cleaner: amzn.to/3wjhyAB
Fluid Film: amzn.to/3K1edch
Iron Remover: amzn.to/3UCrSeL
Dielectric Grease: amzn.to/3JVfXnr
Push Pin Pliers: amzn.to/3JWa61c
Hand Cleaning Wipes: amzn.to/4bx8mYg
Battery Terminal Brush: amzn.to/3QzVzw8
And big thanks to Peter at EvPartsGuy.com for hooking me up with the fenders! Feel free to give him a call if you need any new or used parts and tell him I said hi!
What car jack do you use?
those ceramic Pads will kill your Rotor (Rust streaks). Had ATE Ceramic on my BMW (ICE). I also assume that the Tesla pads are already “ceramic” anyway (low dust).
It's common for cars with electric parking brakes to require a scan tool to activate the caliper retraction function. On cars with a manual integrated parking brake, you have to rewind the caliper with a tool that engages something on the face of the caliper to turn it. You literally screw the piston into the caliper. I suspect that your Model 3 requires a rewind tool as there's a couple of divots in the piston face that a tool could engage to turn it.
To answer your question: I just want more videos - long or short. You’re an incredibly clear, concise, and informative teacher. At this point I’ll watch anything you post, no matter the length.
Someone suggested you do a video on clearing out the incredible amount of junk that collects between your condenser and radiator. A friend and I did our cars and it was quite challenging and I don’t think we did as thorough a job as we could have. I’d love to see a video on that. Thanks so much for these videos, Adam!
Man I don't care about video length as long as you only post from now on. Thank you for the video and the information you shared with us .
Please more long form videos. Thanks! :)
I'm about to get a Model 3, and I have always worked on my own cars where possible. This is a fantastic video, so thank you.
I learned a lot! Thank you so much! Please keep doing Tesla-related content.
Great and regular video. I have a few additions.
Remember to take off those spring clips at the rear brakes, rust will come under them.
I didn’t see any torque wrench was used on the wheel nuts it is important to use specific torque I think it is 175nm. And lastly take care of your skin and use gloves.
Great job 👍
This is the first video of yours that I have seen - and I will be watching more for certain. I don't have a Tesla, and don't want one, but I AM interested in the technology. I found your presentation, accuracy and thoroughness to be engaging, and will certainly watch more of your videos. You refer to the longer format of this video?.. Well I for one am happy with the duration.
TTFN
Thorough job, love these long form well researched videos
Best model 3 brake video I have seen by far. Long form video is great.
Extremely informative and satisfying to watch. Good stuff.
22:45
Battery Terminals
If you don’t have any dielectric grease, one thing that I always used to use when I owned that acid batteries in cars was a 5050 mixture (by volume ) of petroleum jelly and baking soda. Mix it into paste, applied to all layers, reinstall the terminal clamp, and never worry about your battery terminals again.
Awesome video! Thanks for the great info, and for being so so thorough
Another great video, Adam! Keep up the good works!
long form tesla videos and short form tesla videos, as many as you can make, i'll watch
So thorough... I love this channel.
Wow. Just wow. Thanks Adam, great content!
Maybe long videos for this type of content, and a shorter one for follow ups? For example, what's your verdict on the ceramic brakes?
There is already a brake cleaning mode available. Look up "burnishing brakes" in the service mode menu.
What a great informative video. Your cars cop a lot of punishment over there from corrosion. I'm in Australia where we (for the most part) have nowhere near the same issues. My 2008 car looks newer than your Model 3.
Just a couple of constructive criticisms I'd like to add to your otherwise great presentation.
- I know you highlighted installing the same type of pads in each axle set, and I highly recommend you do (same type front and rear). I've been down that path and can assure you it can really upset brake bias in heavy braking by having softer and harder compounds.
- Dielectric grease is supposed to be non conductive. Instead use a Battery Terminal protective product as there's many available, and put it on the corroded terminal nut on your negative terminal too.
- The Negative terminal is already normally connected to frame, so shorting it to the frame doesn't matter. However never put a metal tool on the positive terminal of your battery until the negative terminal is disconnected and not touching. That way if you short the positive terminal to frame nothing will happen. Then you just have to ensure that you don't short out the two battery terminals together with the tool.
Keep up the great videos.
Regarding the brake bias of mismatched pads, do you think the imbalance from pads is more than the imbalance from surface rust on the rotors or from a puddle that only hits one side of the car?
Regarding the dielectric grease, I'd encourage you to watch this short (2.5 minutes) testing exactly this: ua-cam.com/video/G3_mj0c_-QY/v-deo.html If you don't have time now, the takeaway is that dielectric grease does not affect conductivity. If anything, it actually IMPROVES conductivity slightly! If I could film it again I'd apply more to the outside of the connection, but the contact itself is the most important thing to protect imo. My tube specifically calls out battery terminals as one of its intended uses. Does that make sense?
Great tip on the negative terminal, I thought I was surrounded by plastic but there are some metal AC lines right there. Really appreciate you taking the time to share your expertise!
@@adamdport In my experience after replacing only the rear with "performance" pads I had issues where the ABS kicked in early under heavy braking due to change in bias. I replaced the front with the same pads and the problem went away.
A few years later on a different car I was upgrading all the pads and only replaced the rear at first to see if the same thing happened, which it did.
In day to day driving you wont notice it, but under heavy or emergency braking you probably will.
Regarding Dielectric grease, I'm only going by my experience of 39 years as an industrial electrician working on thousands of high current connections. Dielectric grease is used by many people like that, but it's intended purpose is to seal a connection, and not conduct electricity (hence di-electric). The contact should be metal to metal, then apply corrosion inhibitor the outside if needed. It's ok if the terminal is tight, but if it comes loose the dielectric grease will hinder more than help.
This was very helpful. I had to subscribe, thank you so much
Glad you're making videos! The brake pad rusting to the rotor thing was something that didn't happen on my 2018, 2019, or my new Model Y, but I did own a 2021 M3P for a couple of years that I bought used in late 2022 and it had that happen. I live in Florida so not a dry place (esp during the summer, where it rains every afternoon). My 2021 M3P would get the pads rusting to the rotor after every wash, and the rotors were visibly rusted - something I haven't observed on my other Teslas (though I have had other cars that would get rusty rotors after a wash). Not sure why that used M3P had this happen. My new MYP's rotors don't rust, just like my other Teslas.
That's interesting, Tesla's parts catalog doesn't show that the part numbers have changed on the rotors or pads. Do you drive the others more? Do you use the brake pedal more often in the others to keep the rotors clean? It's possible that your pads are dragging a little so the rotors stay warm, could be that? If you're curious, you're welcome to try to reproduce it in the others using the tow mode and water method I showed in this video, I'd love to hear if they're somehow immune. Thanks for the data point!
@@adamdport As far as behavior goes, no differences really. I generally avoid using the brakes as much as possible, though I know FSD/AP tends to use them more than I would. I'm pretty sure on all of the cars, I can hear the pads rubbing on the rotors at least for a few moments after driving for the first time in a little while. The only thing I can think of is the previous owner of my 2021 tracked the car or did something with it that caused the difference - pretty sure it was a florida car its whole life and only had 8k miles on it when I bought it. My 2018 had 50k on it when I got rid of it in 2022 and our 2019 currently has 58k on it - the 2019 doesn't even have the benefit of the carport I park my cars under, it's always exposed to the rain and such, but never gets rusty rotors either.
I make a point to do occasional hard braking, especially in the rain and snow, before I park to avoid rust and brake sticking.
@3:18 You should have taken the big black plastic plug out of the rocker panel and sprayed fluid film in behind the rocker.
I have done the same , I do use ACF50 it’s really good .. over all great video thank you for sharing
great vid. liked the longer format very informative (Assume you had jack stands out of frame, Always use jack stands, there is a $0.10 o-ring in the jack keeping it up, toomany have been injured by them failing)
Please do a video about moisture in the tail lights
I don’t even own a Tesla but enjoyed it. I’m looking into getting a Tesla Model 3
Excellent video simple to understand great work!
5:46 why didn't you clean off the surface where the caliper pistons push against the pad?
Thanks for the info!😀
I enjoyed this. Thanks!
Very good video. Thanks. Extremely thorough. My opinion maybe a little shorter. But you cover a lot of different subjects.
Great video! Please loosen the negative terminal first, to prevent shorts.
Excellent video but a little disappointed that no axle stand was being used for extra safety
What about galvanic corrosion, which occurs when two dissimilar metals are exposed to an electrolyte? When the car is made of steel an aluminum, and some salt water there in the winter, that could be a big problem, no?
Great video - thanks!
24:00 - There is rusty terminal on negative terminal block, it's wise to clean it!
I genuinely value your videos. Regarding your request to the audience, I lean towards longer videos. However, shorter ones could cater better to viewers seeking specific categories (like searching for a particular video title from your collection). Also, avoiding bundling several topics into one video might help you discern which titles pique the most interest among your audience.
Such a great video. Thank you so much!
Most cars with Bosch braking system has a brake wiping on startup and every three minutes in rain.
excellent video. Thanks
3:18 Why not to pull the plug and to protect internals of the magnetic metal inside?
Great video. 👍
Great video and format!
Fantastic video, thank you!
Wow, this is a really useful channel for owners of a tesla model 3 or future (maybe) owners. I'm probably buying a Model 3 Highland and I'm just curious if it is a good investment.
I don't think you're even going to save money, let alone make money, so I wouldn't consider it a "good investment". You can get gas sedans for less than half the price with great mileage. EVs are really fun though!
@@adamdport Investment as in EV vs ICE. No, it will never make money for sure 😉
Great and informative video. Makes me want to do an annual, what do you call this thing again?😂 Thanks.
Well I do have a dual problem solver for you so solve the rust problem and add sound deadning I my self on my model3 performance used second skins demolisher spray liner that prevents rust and sound deading the road noise
I'm not much of a fan of spray liners-I've seen too many videos showing them holding moisture against the metal and making things way worse. Can't speak to yours, never heard of it. Hope it works for you!
18:20 There is "Electronic Parking Brake Service mode" - does it retract piston all the way back so no manual piston retraction is needed?
13:55 i think you mean, I think it's supposed to retract the parking brake thing all the way so that I CAN push the piston back all the way but it didn't work for me. I might have mistakenly left the EPB unplugged or something? Not sure. It made a bunch of noise but still wouldn't let me push the piston back in
Great video
Ya it’s longer but probably if you do short or make 3 videos of it might be better
Bro anothet great video, what do u do for work ? Engineer ?
thanks. Lots of good knowledge : )
Rust on a 3 year old car? That's quality!!!
My 7 year old 4th gen Prius Prime is still immaculate! No Iron Oxide anywhere to be found!
Guide pins are fine with silicone based lubricants, but things like your brake pads should only used metallic based lubricants. Daily driving, you should be fine with using an aluminum anti-seize, whereas with more aggressive driving you will want a copper anti-seize. Silicone based lubricant is not meant for high temp parts.
Anti-seize is not meant to be used as a lubricant or on anything that moves-it's just meant to keep stuff from seizing so you can disassemble it later. It can also cake up, wash off, etc. The stuff I used says it can be used everywhere I used it on, including boots and pads. It is specifically formulated for extreme temperatures up to 3000°F, about double that of anti-seize. Does that make sense or did I misunderstand you?
there's a list of affiliate links in the description, but here's just the lube: amzn.to/3UVLfkF
Why not install a pair of mud flaps behind the front wheels?
Excellent video. What is the model number of the car jack? Did your purchase it from Habor freight Tools? Thanks in advance.
I did yea. It was the middle of the road one-not the premium one but not the cheap one either. No complaints so far, I guess they had some legal beef with snap on over the jacks being essentially identical to theirs
@@adamdport Thanks
Dielectric grease is an insulator not a conductor so therefore should not be used on battery terminals. There is a specific product sold for battery terminals.
I'd encourage you to watch this short (2.5 minutes) testing exactly this: ua-cam.com/video/G3_mj0c_-QY/v-deo.html
If you don't have time now, the takeaway is that dielectric grease does not affect conductivity. If anything, it actually IMPROVES conductivity slightly! There's a ton of conflicting info online but imo this test puts the myth to rest. If I could film it again I'd apply more to the outside of the connection, but the contact itself is the most important thing to protect imo. Does that make sense?
@@adamdport Makes sense, if it was perfect insulator (which it's not) your battery wouldn't be connected in circuit anymore. However, I think you could use anything like oil, grease or petroleum jelly and get a similar result as the clamping force is removing it from the connecting area and maybe removing an air gap. My point is, like any tool you should use the right one for the job. They have terminal connector spray, but if an insulating grease fixes a problem that existed for you, that's fine. I've not had problems with terminals on a car since owning one's from the 70's and 80's, I didn't think it was an issue anymore.. Great videos, I think I'll buy the commander and S3XY knob when we get our Model Y, I see it can also re-engage auto pilot automatically after using the turn signal. ua-cam.com/video/n6IekMX4DvE/v-deo.html
Man this was so helpful
Thanks
You're welcome! What part of the video did you find most helpful?
There should be three types of grease:
A ceramic one for the brake pads to slide along the housing
A silicone based one for the slider pins so it doesn't corrode the rubber
An anti-seize for the back of the pad
The stuff I used says it can be used everywhere I used it on, even boots. It is specifically formulated for extreme temperatures up to 3000°F, about double that of anti-seize.
@@adamdport what's it called? Would love to get some of that if it's so versatile! 😃
@@thestorytelleruk there's a list of affiliate links in the description, but here's just the lube: amzn.to/3UVLfkF
@@adamdportI should've looked there first but thanks very much. 😊
15:30 on Volvo you can run the handbreak motor with a 9V battery, can we do the same on tesla?
Other people have reported that the epb service mode works for them-I'm not sure why it didn't work for me. Can you let me know if it works for you?
I won't be doing any maintenance on my Tesla because I live in Peoria, Az and nothing ever rusts here, we have no salt on the roads either. The car will last until I die.
Grinding the pads is a bad idea. Loose pads rattle and can jam in place. A few strokes with a file are more than enough followed by a smear of anti-seize paste on the edge only.
I used the wire wheel just to remove the rust, I'm not removing any material. Anti-seize is not meant to be used as a lubricant or on anything that moves-it's just meant to keep stuff from seizing so you can disassemble it later. It can also cake up, wash off, etc. Does that make sense or did I misunderstand you?
Do Teslas get bricked if you service the car yourself?
I'm curious why you would think that? Did you read a news article or something?
@@adamdport rich rebuilds
Nice thanks
It's a good idea not to touch the pad surface with your fingers, so no oil from your fingers gets on there. Any oil can cause grabby braking.
Nonsense. Absolute nonsense.
i thought on EVs you don't have to change brakes often
Don’t use the purple brake grease on slide pins.
The stuff I used shows caliper pins as its first "suggested applications" and goes on to say that it's safe for brake rubber. Here's an affiliate link if you wanted to try it out! amzn.to/3UVLfkF
Where's your axle stands 😱😱😱😱
⚠25:21 WRONG! it only reacts with edges of particles. they still need to be mechanically dislodged and removed with clay-bar/mitt.
search for lab video from Stoner Car Care where they show it under microscope and compare theirs against other manufacturers.
25:28 definitely more OFTEN than once annually! but yes, not monthly, unless parked next to train-tracks or in industrial zone.
Can't say I've ever looked at my car under a microscope but if that's the standard you live by then by all means!
@@adamdport so what you just said is you know nothing about detailing AND you reject any constructive criticism. i thought you had 🧠 until now...
I do own a synthetic clay pad and you're right, I'd absolutely use it before applying ceramic coating or whatever else, but this wasn't meant to be a detailing video-I just wanted to call out the rust spots since a lot of people are concerned when they see them. Didn't mean any offense, just a lighthearted joke. Sorry for the delay in replying to this! But while I'm writing, I'm curious if your experience you think that there are any coatings that reduce fallout? Or is it inevitable?
I promise I will watch every Model 3 maintenance video you make.
Always such thorough content! Very much appreciated!
Very interesting. My 2022 model 3 now has 70,000 miles and I live in a heavy road salt area as well. Changing my winter tires over to summer I also take apart my brakes to clean and lubricate them. This year I noticed surface rust pitting all over the steel mono structure. Now that I see how easy it is to remove the whole fender liner I’m going to go back an apply a thin coat of that wax you used.
I appreciated how accessible this was for someone without any experience doing this kind of thing. I _almost_ feel like I could follow the steps myself, but I'll probably still use professionals to be safe :-)
FWIW the "professionals" that replaced my battery under warranty took not one, not two, but FIVE trips to finish the job. After the fourth, I inspected their work and noticed that they straight up lost a bolt while replacing the ground cable. While making this video I discovered that they broke one of the tabs on that red terminal cover. It honestly would have taken me LESS time for a better job had I just done it myself! Just because it's someone's profession doesn't mean they're a professional, and even if they have experience (not a guarantee), that doesn't mean they're competent. You can always pay someone to inspect your work, or find a gearhead who'd watch over your shoulder while you get comfortable. I hope this helps you find the confidence to start this new hobby!
@@adamdport great statement! I’ve seen this countless times with apple support.
Aside from some very basic knowledge I picked up in an auto mechanics class in high school, I had no real experience working on cars growing up. I wanted to learn, though, and started taking on basic repairs and upgrades (oil changes, brake jobs, stereo swaps, etc.) using UA-cam and other online resources (car forums can be a great resource as well).
I’m still only a basic DIYer, but it’s nice to be able to tackle small jobs on your own. I personally plan for jobs to take 2x - 3x longer than may be stated online or you think it ought to take, especially if it’s your first time doing it. Go slow, be careful, and double check your work.
Expect to encounter frustrations along the way, but try to roll with the punches and you will learn a lot along the way and be able to take pride in doing things yourself.
I liked this long format. I watched it all. Very informative and I've learned something new.
Your M3 is the same year and similar mileage as mine. In service mode, I suggest you run a "Thermal System Performance Test". Your test will likely fail. Then remove your frunk tub and check how much crap is in your radiator/condenser. I think you'll have a nice future video cleaning it coming up! ;) You will need to remove the bumper and slide out the fan shroud to properly get to the condenser to clean it.
I’m looking forward to seeing his video on that! A friend and I did it in his 2018 TM3 and it was pretty challenging and we disassembled a few things we didn’t have to, and I felt like we forced a few things that maybe we didn’t have to. So I can’t wait to watch his video on cleaning the radiator and condenser.
Yeah not sure what the right process was, I also had to force a few parts to get enough room. In the end it works and my AC is working like new again and not sounding like a jet engine at takeoff
Or do what I did and buy a front grill guard that keeps all that crap from getting there in the first place.
@@mowcowbell
We put one on the MYp the first week. When it gets cooler here in Thailand I’ll take a look see to see what has collected in there.
I just cleaned mine out today. I didn’t do the best job, just pried the cover back and vacuumed it out. I wasn’t prepared to take the bumper off or removed the radiator mounting bolts.
I had never done it before and am at 60k miles, and was shocked how clogged it was. The fans had been running really loudly for hours and hours this summer. I cleaned all that crap out and now they aren’t spinning as hard or as frequently.
Those presentations are so well prepared… also, the tone and talking speed is very well delivered and it helps international audience; I am not in the Tesla family; (Ioniq 5 & 6) but I enjoy all of his presentations. What is good for Tesla is also good for Hyundai; thank you for all those little details…! And have a nice day, 👌
Nice to see that someone is doing proactive cleaning and making a video about how to do it.
I really like the idea of Tesla adding a brake maintenance schedule/mode/whatever. I have to change out my front rotors soon since they've gotten all rusted up on the edges from non-use, but this happened before they added the low-regen-braking-assist option. I'm hoping the new set won't have that issue.
Your ceramic rear pad experiment is really promising; it would be great if you gave us an update on how they behave over the summer!
...aaaand I just realized that the replacement pads I ordered for the front brakes are exactly what you put on the rear 😁
There's a rubber plug in each fender well can be removed to spray the inside of the rocker panel with fluid film. Doirectric grease is an excellent insulator and water repellent; apply it over the outside of an installed battery terminal - to keep moisture away from the inside. (Fluid Film does the same thing.)
Yes, absolutely! Doing that has worked very well for keeping the rockers intact on my 12 year old daily driver purchased new. I'm in western NY where the DOT does its best to keep the salt mines in business.
Adam, you are incredibly detailed and thorough! This is what sets you apart from other UA-camrs. Do not shorten these videos by skimping.
I’m fine with your longer running times because I know I’m going to learn a lot. But you could experiment with breaking up some existing videos into “Part 1 of 4” with titles that tease the content of each. You could also lead your content description a link to full video.
You do a great job. I’m excited when your videos come out!!
Can you do a condenser coil cleaning next? Your camera angles are great for showing what you’re actually working on. Keep up the videos please!
Thanks for this video! It reminds me I need to do my yearly brake service. After your video on the stinky AC issue, I installed the gasket product listed in the description (for my model Y) and I’ve not had any trouble since.
I enjoyed the long format.
Also liked the black and white “don’t do this” examples!
Fantastic job on the video and content. I prefer the long form videos. Thanks.
That is a Heavy vehicle not to use jack stand. Many DIY Garage guys learned it the hard way.
Thank you! These are the most informative, helpful, and easy-to-follow auto maintenance videos I’ve ever seen. Half the time I’m watching a UA-cam video I’m just listening while I play a game, but I watch every single frame of your videos. Tremendous signal-to-noise (info-to-filler) ratio.
i hope one day I buy a used vehicle from him lmfao
Brake rotor maintenance mode is just doing a hard stop every once in a while. It doesn't take much. Even a couple hard stops from 30mph will polish them up. This also helps prevent the calipers/pads from sticking.
Very informative, thank you.
Regarding the rear Caliper piston retraction. While you method worked, it should be noted, rear caliper pistons with built in parking brake actuators are normally reset by rotating the piston. They make a ratchet adapter that engages the V notches in the piston. It’s very inexpensive and can be purchased from your local AP store. Alternatively, you can sometimes use the pointed ends of a needle nose pliers. I which direction you turn it. Rotating one way or the other will show which way turns it in.
Finally found something useful to watch! YTube is getting boring these days.
Great video! Thank you for all the details. I didn’t mind the length. It was all very relevant for annual maintenance.
Should we Drill a hole in the plastic cover of the fender? So the water can drain out.
I considered it but thought it might make it worse. If I saw a lot more than what was in there I'd say yes.
tesla people dont do no maintenance. youre video is going to help keep thousands of extra model 3s on the road
I work on ev's and u are not lying 5 years not once service brakes on average 😮
Nice video. I include evaporator and radiator cleaning too, Found why my cooling system was blowing hard and AC not optimally cooling due to debris caught in fins.
Dude. Excellent explanations. Great voice. I admire your dedication and thoroughness. Subscribed. I don't mind the length at all.
I'm astonished Tesla let's you access Service mode and there all these service tasks to do and information to peek! I always thought Tesla was more like Apple and is highly restrictive with their software (just like you can tinker with Android a lot more than with iPhone)
I love your videos. Thanks you so much for making them. Have you ever cleaned out your radiator coils???
I didn’t know that was something I should do and when I tried to do it today I found 70% was clogged with leaves, twigs, feathers, and dirt.
Hi Adam, greetings from the U.K. Thanks for this video, calmly and thoroughly narrated with good information. Top job!
Thanks for the video will come in handy when the car gets out of warranty. Long videos are better than short ones which make you lose focus fast.
Love this video. Fantastic maintenance info. Question: Have you seen videos regarding cleaning the Tesla radiators? What are your thoughts and have you attempted that yet?