Thanks for the heads-up on waterproofing the deck cleats etc. One thing I have done below is to put a stainless steel strip between each of the pairs of fixing nuts to help spread the load a bit. Just a thought!!
Hi Dom. Instaed of using Sikaflex which goes off although stays rubbery I would recommend butyl tape. Butyl is incredibly forgiving. It never sets and seals really well but doesn't stick so you can take it apart. It much less messy than sikaflex as it's like blu tack. My Hallberg Rassy which is over 25 years old has many fittings fitted with butyl in the factory and they don't leak. The countersink is really important and some butyl down the thread is a help but as George says below you don't want it where the nut goes underneath.
Completely agree, I refitted some hardware today, with butyl tape underneath. Butyl tape is easy to use. Last year I used it on some fittings attached to a varnished board, although the Butyl tape had stuck very well to both surfaces I was able to roll it over the remaining pieces so that it stuck to itself and left the surface ready to sand.
If you only intend to sail in the cold UK climate, butyl tape is OK but head off to the Tropics and it's useless. It turns to liquid and runs out under pressure. We use Geocel Works to fit all deck hardware for the last 10 years. Far superior to Sika and butyl. It's also cheaper. We set sail 3 years ago for the Caribbean having re-bed all deck fittings after new deck paint. 10,000nm of sailing, tropical UV sun and zero deck leaks. We never use Sika products any more or butyl
For taping off around something like a cleat I find it's easier to tape off the whole area, dry fit the hardware, then cut out around the edge with a razor blade. It ends up being pretty fast and way more precise than trying to tape round corners with straight tape.
Nice tutorial Dom! I tend to use the Sikaflex primer now before the 291 - not sure if it is that important. Also put the screws in first, apply the 291 around the screw/cleat interface in generous amounts, and go down the shaft but not all the way. This way you still end up with the 291 in the same place, but avoid 291 on the end of the screw which otherwise gets really messy. You can also apply 291 to the cleat to increase the bedding surface which might help with shear loads? (not restrict it to just the area around the screws). The 291 should find its way up under the head when screwed in. Applying it to the screws/cleat interface is a bit more fiddlly obviously. Great advice not to tighten to 100% initially, but just a mention that then doing the final bit, you need to have someone on top with the screwdriver to make sure the screw doesn't move a mm - tighten the nut only; else potential to break the seal.
What a relief to see that winch moving again! As a matter of fact I’m just today going to exchange the old Lewmar to a spiffy self tailing Andersen for my mainsail. 🛠️
Nice goin! When I’m disassembling mechanical things I like to put each piece on the table in the order I removed it w fasteners in their respective holes of possible. Less to remember is always better 😎.
That deck looks great. I always used Sika as well and a friend introduced me to butyl tape. The prep is virtually zero and dleaning it off and replacing it is really easy as well. Yours kooks great though.
Followed Mads way it is bomb proof but this way is serviceable (for a while) but as other comments with butyl tape (here at Bunnings in Aussie get Gorillla tape its the same thing but cheaper )
On recommendation of my neighbor who had recently replaced his deck, I used butyl tape to seal 2 stantion bases, did similar countersink, then a bit of silicone on top of butyl tape and base of stantion, Also worked well.
Another fantastic video. I noticed in the background as you paned around just before the winch assembly on your boat. There was a beautiful old fishing boat maybe. If you have time would it be possible to have a few shots of this boat and maybe some history. Love your videos . Thanks again Rob from Tasmania
Pretty sure that ‘cleaning’ the deck holes with acetone, you were just damaging the deck caulk and picking up the dissolved caulk on the cloth. Just a heads up for next time! Nice work :)
when restoring a 80 year old steel ship I found that all area's under the cleats were in a real good shape. reason was a thin (1.5mm) layer of flexible rubber. since then I use this method in combination with the sika 291i it, so far has helt great!
Those wipes can dry a bit if left for a while. My solution is to get half a cup of water and add 30% of Flash liquid. Pour that in the tub & shake it up. Leave in the tub & the wipes are nice & wet when needed. Flash cleans most stuff so does the job OK.
in regards to the cleats…i think the way you’re repairing it is probably adequate, but if you really want to insure that it has a good seal over time is to use a broader plate under the cleat to distribute the torque that will be placed on it…that teak will move either by shrinkage or the narrow edge digging in…i guess we’ll see…she’s really looking good buddy…love this yacht!
So glad to hear about Carly and Hudson! I'd agree with @johnfrancis below about the butyl. SS bolts into aluminium cleat. Hopefully you coated the bolts...
Yes, definitely buthyl Tape. In addition, consider the following: Drill the holes larger, fill them up completely with thickened epoxy, drill to the right size for your bolts before butyl tape is applied. Will last for ever...
Are the holes through the deck surrounded by epoxy and not foam or balsa core? I assume you already knew / made sure that its "solid" with a beefy backing plate! My surprise is that you used Sikaflex and not proper butyl mastic as Sikaflex is not a good sealant when under tension - which is what happens to at least 2 of the 4 bolts when the cleat is loaded.
![Amateur DIY Yacht Restoration.... [Day 329]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sSLNfXWg5NM/mqdefault.jpg)
![Amateur DIY Yacht Restoration.... [Day 329]](/img/tr.png)
Thanks for the heads-up on waterproofing the deck cleats etc. One thing I have done below is to put a stainless steel strip between each of the pairs of fixing nuts to help spread the load a bit. Just a thought!!
The deck looks amazing. That’s a tough job executed perfectly.
Great to see you back and the wonderful progress. Looking forward to seeing the entire crew onboard ❤
Hi Dom. Instaed of using Sikaflex which goes off although stays rubbery I would recommend butyl tape. Butyl is incredibly forgiving. It never sets and seals really well but doesn't stick so you can take it apart. It much less messy than sikaflex as it's like blu tack. My Hallberg Rassy which is over 25 years old has many fittings fitted with butyl in the factory and they don't leak. The countersink is really important and some butyl down the thread is a help but as George says below you don't want it where the nut goes underneath.
Completely agree, I refitted some hardware today, with butyl tape underneath. Butyl tape is easy to use. Last year I used it on some fittings attached to a varnished board, although the Butyl tape had stuck very well to both surfaces I was able to roll it over the remaining pieces so that it stuck to itself and left the surface ready to sand.
If you only intend to sail in the cold UK climate, butyl tape is OK but head off to the Tropics and it's useless. It turns to liquid and runs out under pressure. We use Geocel Works to fit all deck hardware for the last 10 years. Far superior to Sika and butyl. It's also cheaper. We set sail 3 years ago for the Caribbean having re-bed all deck fittings after new deck paint. 10,000nm of sailing, tropical UV sun and zero deck leaks. We never use Sika products any more or butyl
Hi Dom, Another vote for Butyl Tape. Easy to apply, no mess to clean up. Have been using it for 25 years!
For taping off around something like a cleat I find it's easier to tape off the whole area, dry fit the hardware, then cut out around the edge with a razor blade. It ends up being pretty fast and way more precise than trying to tape round corners with straight tape.
Damn I learn so much from the comments section!
Genius! 👌🏼
Nice tutorial Dom! I tend to use the Sikaflex primer now before the 291 - not sure if it is that important. Also put the screws in first, apply the 291 around the screw/cleat interface in generous amounts, and go down the shaft but not all the way. This way you still end up with the 291 in the same place, but avoid 291 on the end of the screw which otherwise gets really messy. You can also apply 291 to the cleat to increase the bedding surface which might help with shear loads? (not restrict it to just the area around the screws). The 291 should find its way up under the head when screwed in. Applying it to the screws/cleat interface is a bit more fiddlly obviously. Great advice not to tighten to 100% initially, but just a mention that then doing the final bit, you need to have someone on top with the screwdriver to make sure the screw doesn't move a mm - tighten the nut only; else potential to break the seal.
Le meilleur pour ce type de fixation est le Butyl et je ne suis pas le seul de cet avis!
Quite the learning curve you're on. Hope the light Isn't a train. Thanks for another video.
What a relief to see that winch moving again! As a matter of fact I’m just today going to exchange the old Lewmar to a spiffy self tailing Andersen for my mainsail. 🛠️
Well done on all that Dom. That deck looks amazing.
"Because they're meant to be straight, aren't they?" Perfect delivery!
Every thing is coming together and may be the weather will be better , when the crew is ship shape once again . Fondest regards to you all .😉
Nice goin! When I’m disassembling mechanical things I like to put each piece on the table in the order I removed it w fasteners in their respective holes of possible. Less to remember is always better 😎.
@robertgold2643 Use your phone camera, it's free.
Great video 😊I'm currently fibreglassing my deck on my wooden trawler yacht 👍
That deck looks great. I always used Sika as well and a friend introduced me to butyl tape. The prep is virtually zero and dleaning it off and replacing it is really easy as well. Yours kooks great though.
Drill-Fill-Drill (the Mads way) ensures absolutely no balsa core moisture in the future for deck fittings, but your method is the next best thing 👍
Followed Mads way it is bomb proof but this way is serviceable (for a while) but as other comments with butyl tape (here at Bunnings in Aussie get Gorillla tape its the same thing but cheaper )
On recommendation of my neighbor who had recently replaced his deck, I used butyl tape to seal 2 stantion bases, did similar countersink, then a bit of silicone on top of butyl tape and base of stantion, Also worked well.
The one question is up keep on teak, it looks minted. But in heat it gets very hot on the feet. If around the UK no probs. HAHAHA
Another fantastic video. I noticed in the background as you paned around just before the winch assembly on your boat. There was a beautiful old fishing boat maybe. If you have time would it be possible to have a few shots of this boat and maybe some history. Love your videos . Thanks again Rob from Tasmania
Pretty sure that ‘cleaning’ the deck holes with acetone, you were just damaging the deck caulk and picking up the dissolved caulk on the cloth. Just a heads up for next time! Nice work :)
Great vid. Deck looks great, and a bit of self deprecation goes a long way😁. Winch is a beaut. Well done. Cant wait to see you all back on the water.
Fantastic, thanks for sharing.
That is a seriues job man. Nicely done.
In any long project it's the landmark successes that keep you going. On the bedding down, I would do no more, no less.
when restoring a 80 year old steel ship I found that all area's under the cleats were in a real good shape. reason was a thin (1.5mm) layer of flexible rubber. since then I use this method in combination with the sika 291i it, so far has helt great!
Those wipes can dry a bit if left for a while. My solution is to get half a cup of water and add 30% of Flash liquid. Pour that in the tub & shake it up. Leave in the tub & the wipes are nice & wet when needed. Flash cleans most stuff so does the job OK.
Love your 3:12 shows but not sure the orange edge protection would save you🤣🤣.
in regards to the cleats…i think the way you’re repairing it is probably adequate, but if you really want to insure that it has a good seal over time is to use a broader plate under the cleat to distribute the torque that will be placed on it…that teak will move either by shrinkage or the narrow edge digging in…i guess we’ll see…she’s really looking good buddy…love this yacht!
So glad to hear about Carly and Hudson! I'd agree with @johnfrancis below about the butyl. SS bolts into aluminium cleat. Hopefully you coated the bolts...
Yes, definitely buthyl Tape.
In addition, consider the following: Drill the holes larger, fill them up completely with thickened epoxy, drill to the right size for your bolts before butyl tape is applied.
Will last for ever...
Sure is a lot of varnished wood around your boat. 😉
Clean up with baby wipes. Cheaper and efficient.
nice video Dominic
Butyl tape would be the best choice, for deck hardware that you have good clamping force on…winches, cleats, etc…and use the counter sink as you did.
Butyl seems to last longer.
I use it on small surfaces.
When rebuilding the electric winch you didn't use any grease on the gears. Is there a reason for this?
For the cleat, I would have put a bed of SK291i across the whole base footprint rather than circles around the bolt holes. Good job though.
Nothing is “forever” on a sailboat! Lol
Are the holes through the deck surrounded by epoxy and not foam or balsa core? I assume you already knew / made sure that its "solid" with a beefy backing plate! My surprise is that you used Sikaflex and not proper butyl mastic as Sikaflex is not a good sealant when under tension - which is what happens to at least 2 of the 4 bolts when the cleat is loaded.
Are you going to rename the boat Cadohuha ??? 🤣🤣🤣
Did you get that expensive winch for free?
People are thinking epoxy because you said never leak again.
Too many plastic parts in that Winch for my liking - will stick to Harken
The natural oils on your fingers is the worst contaminate.
8:32 Dodgy deals in the car park. I've been there.🤑
Just wondering why no lube??? Or did I miss something. Watched the assembly of the winch twice.