Go video. Got a few miles to go before I worry about my guides. I am doing some exhaust work. bought new gaskets that go in before the exhaust manifold. Then I see that the split spacer slides up the manifold to the head followed by the exhaust flange with its two washers and nuts. So what is actually pushing the manifold against the new washer, is it that split spacer? Thanks
Just so I understand properly, the D showing in the porthole means the right side of the bike IS in tdc? And S would mean the left side is in tdc? Thank you for the video
The D & S refer to the Italian words for right and left. Destro (right) and Sinistra (left). They mark the TDC for the right & left hand cylinders. There is also an advance ignition mark before each TDC mark.
I don't use a torque wrench as rule for non critical bolts but that's only because I grew up in an era before torque wrenches were widely available. However the rocker cover bolts are easy to strip so using a torque wrench for these is good practice if you have one.
I just use a torch to look down the plug hole to find top dead centre on the firing stroke (both valves closed). If there are markings on our Breva's flywheel they are hard to see. Because the bike doesn't have a centre stand I take the front alternator cover off and use a long series hex key to rotate the engine with the plugs out. And of course you adjust the clearances when the engine is cold. The valve clearances are: Intake clearance is 0.15mm Exhaust clearance is 0.20mm
Thanks for the video, Mike! Recently the valves of my Mille GT started to get a little noisy, so your instructions come really handy. Do you replace the gasket every time you adjust the valves or can it be reused if it looks healthy and is in one piece?
Mike really! did you need to do this? Ive Just shimmed the Fz750 with 20 under bucket shims, cams out, radiator off, engine re time ( 3 times!) and shims £10 each (potentially over £200) and the Pantah with stupid rubber bands, the fiddllyst little shims your ever seen and £30 for a shim. Taken about 2 months to do the pair. I can do the Guzzi's in 15 min inc making a brew. I never take the plug out the bell housing, i just use a probe down the plug hole to get TDC, doesnt need to be that precise, just watch the exhaust valve close and you know the next TDC is the right one.
Go video. Got a few miles to go before I worry about my guides. I am doing some exhaust work. bought new gaskets that go in before the exhaust manifold. Then I see that the split spacer slides up the manifold to the head followed by the exhaust flange with its two washers and nuts. So what is actually pushing the manifold against the new washer, is it that split spacer? Thanks
The split spacer is sandwiched between a lip on the end of the header pipe and the retaining flange.
Mike, you are great...
Just so I understand properly, the D showing in the porthole means the right side of the bike IS in tdc? And S would mean the left side is in tdc? Thank you for the video
The D & S refer to the Italian words for right and left. Destro (right) and Sinistra (left). They mark the TDC for the right & left hand cylinders. There is also an advance ignition mark before each TDC mark.
do you have to use a torque wrench at all in this process? Maybe when putting the covers back on? Great video, thanks
I don't use a torque wrench as rule for non critical bolts but that's only because I grew up in an era before torque wrenches were widely available. However the rocker cover bolts are easy to strip so using a torque wrench for these is good practice if you have one.
Is it the same process on the Breva 750? Does the Breva have the D/S markings?
I just use a torch to look down the plug hole to find top dead centre on the firing stroke (both valves closed). If there are markings on our Breva's flywheel they are hard to see. Because the bike doesn't have a centre stand I take the front alternator cover off and use a long series hex key to rotate the engine with the plugs out. And of course you adjust the clearances when the engine is cold.
The valve clearances are:
Intake clearance is 0.15mm
Exhaust clearance is 0.20mm
Mike's Machines Thanks a lot!
nice job!!.I have one V7 and I learning......
Thanks for the video, Mike! Recently the valves of my Mille GT started to get a little noisy, so your instructions come really handy. Do you replace the gasket every time you adjust the valves or can it be reused if it looks healthy and is in one piece?
I reuse them if they look ok. If they start to weep too much it's a simple matter to replace them anyway.
@@MikesMachines can you tell me how can i get to know that is top dead center on v7 from 2021? There is none inspection window
You can place a screwdriver carefully in the plug hole to find top dead centre on the firing stroke to set valve clearances.
do it when the engine is cold
Mike really! did you need to do this? Ive Just shimmed the Fz750 with 20 under bucket shims, cams out, radiator off, engine re time ( 3 times!) and shims £10 each (potentially over £200) and the Pantah with stupid rubber bands, the fiddllyst little shims your ever seen and £30 for a shim. Taken about 2 months to do the pair. I can do the Guzzi's in 15 min inc making a brew.
I never take the plug out the bell housing, i just use a probe down the plug hole to get TDC, doesnt need to be that precise, just watch the exhaust valve close and you know the next TDC is the right one.
I thought I'd better pad it out a little, lol!