A shop that makes money by servicing these bikes making a free video...for the back yard guys doing it themselves......classy man. Thank you for this. Very cool of you. Your site is now on my list.
craig a It is always a good thing to put a dab of an anti-seize paste on sparking plug threads, the steel to aluminium sometime seizes, this prevents this occurring.
@@craigauckram1087 Don't do that. Aluminium head, steel spark plug and copper grease plus high voltage electricity = electrolytic reaction. The head corrodes, and then the spark plug shoots out. Do set the spark plug to the correct gap. They come out of the box at 0.90mm which is incorrect. Too large a gap and they misfire at high revs.
@@craigauckram1087 I've been using anti-sieze for 45 or 50 years. It's messy, so use sparingly! Also, I always change the aluminum washer on the drain plug. And sometimes even use a torque wrench just for fun.
You can not go wrong with a Moto Guzzi. Very easy to work onI. I have a 2018 v7 III special. I ride it to work everyday! Some days I want to pass work and keep riding…😂
This is how cool bikes were. And survivors still are. Air-cooled Moto Guzzi is the sole old architecture survivor, allowing you to deal with this at the side of the road or a gas station. Other bikes are built to incentivise you to go to the official shop.
So useful to folks who are just getting started and building confidence on wrenching on their own bikes. I hope Piaggio knows that this is the sort of content that sells motorcycles.
you've got a new subscriber here. You covered valve adjustment and an oil change in 15 minutes. so many 15 minute tutorial videos include 10 minutes of waffle and 5 minutes of actual content, and half the time they don't know what they're doing!! lol
Knowing that it’s hard to find knowledgeable garages that services Guzzis and you guys teaching us step by step is just legend! Would work on my v9 while watching this!
Thanks for this, Todd & team. Appreciate your passion for giving back to the Guzzi community with both parts and instructional videos like this. Y'all rock.
My 1975 Guzzi T3 was most reliable / best motorcycle I have owned & have owned a bunch ! Am glad you did the valve adjustment portion as I will not own a "shim-under bucket" ! I want to be able to completely service the bike myself. Thank You RH
I agree with James Haydon. This is the clearest instruction video for oil change and valve clearance check and adjustment for the V7 I've seen to date too! With little gems of experience scattered in! Kudos to GTM!
It's been years since I had a Guzzi in the stable, but I remember doing the valves was VERY simple, this video reminded me of that. Using a straw to determine top-dead center is a good idea, I used a chop stick or shish kabob skewer. I have a '23 V7 Special Edition, so this video will definitely come in handy. Also have a '24 V100 Navale, so not so much on that bike. But great video, easy to follow, plain language, nicely done!
Excellent video. Other than the beautiful styling, the main reason I traded in my old Ninja 400 for a V7 Stone is the Guzzi's raw simplicity and ease of maintenance.
Wow. The perpendicular design of the engine makes valve adjustment look like a breeze. Even more of a reason for me to one day own one of these machines.
@@CapitanTavish the shape of the engine doesnt matter. Its transverse, so the engine layout itself is perpendicular, the angle of the pistons means nothing
@@CapitanTavish BMW is horizontally opposed. There's no such thing as a "perpendicular" engine except in relation to the direction the bike travels, which is what he was saying. I sense the Dunning Kruger is strong in this one. 😂
Amazing video. Extremely useful, practical material, well photo’d and edited, and best of all, no droning on about peripheral crap, straight to the point. Thx!
I have been weighing several bikes and I think you just sold me on the Moto Guzzi. Very simply, this is something I can do. I started driving air-cooled VWs. My first car was a '74 Thing (Type 181) and my first motorcycle was a Honga CL 90. I say this to point out that the level of wrenching I saw did not look unfamiliar in any way. I am hundreds of miles from any dealer, no matter the Make, and so self-maintenance will be a must. The only other thing I would like to have seen, as I am told it is regular service, is clutch area cleaning and lubrication along with a shaft fluid change. In all, a great video.
The way i adjust my 2016 Eldorado is leave the back wheel on the ground. Put the bike in neutral. On the front of the engine between the horns is a rubber plug. Remove plug and use a socket wrench to turn the engine from there. It works really great. My face is inches away from the valves. Not so when i turn the back wheel. Also, i use wooden skewers in the spark plug holes to monitor piston TDC.
As a retired auto and motorcycle mechanic, it's so refreshing to me to see things being done WITHOUT every single drain plug and adjustment and fastener being cranked on and off with power tools. I was beginning to think maybe that was forbidden in UA-cam videos? When did Moto Guzzi V7s get oil filters that can be changed without dropping the oil pan? That was always one of the main things stopping me from buying one.
Barry, we still mostly hand wrench in our workshop. The small blocks have had this style filter forever. The big block Guzzis have had easy access spin on/off filters since 2006 to current. They are magical machines.
Thank you! This was exactly what I needed to complete my bike’s first service (and MY first-ever bike service). I was afraid there might be some weird tools necessary, but that is not the case (except that I’d HIGHLY recommend GT Moto’s oil cap tool!) All-in-all am easy process and I appreciate the added knowledge on my bike that comes from doing it myself.
Quick follow up: I just changed the gear box and shaft drive (transmission) oil on my V7iii last week. It was pretty easy. The service manual I found on-line helped a lot. This is my first bike with gear oil...man, that stuff smells funky when you drain it. (Like rotten eggs.) Make sure to wear gloves and do it outside if possible, my garage smelled for a few days. (On the V7iii the gear oil drains down on the exhaust cross bar that runs under the bike, due to the placement of the drain plug. I covered that it in tinfoil, which turned out to be a good idea. I didn't end up getting smelly gear oil all over the exhaust cross bar.)
Vic's Garage the gear box and transmission (or rear shaft drive) oil don't have to be changed very often, much less than regular engine oil, but I don't have the exact numbers. I think mine was good for another 20k miles or so after changing it. I sold the bike so I can't check the manual for service intervals. You can find a manual on line and it will have the service intervals listed. I probably didn't need to change gear box and shaft drive oil but the previous owner said he had a friend do his initial break in service, so I wasn't sure what was done. I tend to over change my oils just to get safe. Now I only have one bike in my garage (an old Honda CB750) and it only has one type of oil to change.
I love these maintenance videos. It makes me consider buying one as o can then run it cheaply and properly. I hate money pits being working class on basic minimum wage
I would suggest a couple changes! I wouold Never use pliers on the adjusters, use a small wrench, preferably a correct wrench-not an adjustable as was suggested. A bit of copper based anti sieze paste is highly recommended when installing any spark plug into an aluminum head; I would suggest putting some on those exhaust header threads where the pipes bolt to the head. I would also replace the rusty nuts with ss nuts. At about 7:55 this mechanic lets the wrench slip and almost dings the tank! that is not how to do it! I suggest putting the wrench on the nut and hold it down on the nut with your left hand, then give the wrench a bump with the open palm of your right hand. no risk of damage!
Thank you so much for the video posting! I'm looking into buying a Moto Guzzi for the 2023 season. THIS is one of the big reasons I'm interested because thy are still suitable for the home mechanic to keep serviced.
Hi Todd, thank you very much for the excellent and very educational video. My name is Guillermo and I am greeting you from Argentina. I see that you set the intake and exhaust to 0.005 and 0.007 respectively. On the contrary, the service manual indicates 0.004 and 0.006. Could you please explain to me the reason why you set 0.005 and 0.007?
I got my '22 back from its first service at EuroCycles Sonoma. It was leaking oil so bad I had to trailer it back. When I picked it up I noticed it was missing the front brake light switch. loaned to another bike. Riding home 15 miles later the R. side exhaust was falling off for lack of the mounting bolt...Removed to replace a faulty rear wheel
Great video, thank you. I am interested where you got the valve clearances from. You mention intake 0.005 and exhaust 0.007. The V7 III manual says 0.0039 (.10mm) and 0.0059 (.15mm)
I also think that the adjustment measure is not well taken. In the specifications of the workshop manual it says exactly that for the intake they are 0.10mm (0.0039 inches) and for the exhaust 0.15mm (0.0059 inches). There is no difference between the US and Europe because they use the same fuel with the same octane number. Another thing is the pollution standards and there if there may be differences in the exhaust line (lambda probe, catalytic converter and silencer).
Overall very well done. Like BMW airhead boxers valve service is super simple. Unlike newer tech OHC engines where it may take an hour just to get to the valve cover, then if adjustment is needed cams may need to be removed and shims replaced. The oil change was straight forward, just wish they would use a spin-on filter. I would have started the engine briefly to allow oil to fill the new dry filter before the final level check.
Thanks, true. Several obvious steps we left out, like starting the engine prior to checking the final level. Some common sense applies. We didn’t post this to get critiqued, more to show those with less knowledge on what’s entailed. We always recommend someone knowledgeable or those somewhat versed in wrenching of course.
Thank you for this video my nearest Moto Guzzi shop is 400 miles away! Do you have a video on removing the front and rear wheels when I’m ready to change the tires?
Just a quick question: so, if I understand correctly, you only move te back wheel once to Top dead Center (TDC) as mentioned in the video point 3:36 minutes, then find TDC, now you don't touch the back wheel and check both intake and out take valve, and if needed, adjust. Is this correct?
Looking at the side of engine crankcase there is a large silver plug,if you remove that i bet there will be a mark on the flywheel for tdc,Honda engines i worked on had that,you need to do it on the compression stroke and make sure you do lock nuts up tight or it will end badly if the nut comes loose.🙂
Hello! I really liked your video. I have a question for you, is it possible to service MG without having a dealer, it's just that these are so unique and distinctive bikes that I just don't see an alternative to them? For more than a hundred years, bikes have been produced at the same factory, almost manually, who can "boast" about it now. Thanks!
There's a bit of an issue concerning valve clearances with the V7 III. The V7 III service manual says .004" and .006" but underneath the seat there is a sticker that says .006" and .008". I called many Moto Guzzi dealerships across the US today; 9 out of 13 say they reference the service manual. Then I spoke with the piaggio group customer care about this; They said the sticker is correct stating that the US and CA versions have an evap sensor to meet emissions and because of this the valve clearances should be set to .006" and .008". Then I proceeded to tell her about all the dealerships that refer to the service manual accessed through the piaggio group dealership portal. Even though my dealership does the .006" and .008", I told them to go .005" and .007" ...Split the difference just GT MotoCycles.
Great video, The manual is poorly written, Guzzi cheaped out when they wrote it. Also I had 3 dealers work on my V7 and they all overfilled the fluids on a cross county trip. I had gear oil coming out on my boot and motor oil in the breather.
Thank you for service video,just I have one question ,when you tight the oil bolt on how low you push on tool?how Nm for tight oil bolt,and oil filter? Thank you 👍
Nice video. I see that dipstick measurement on guzzis is whole science :-) V7II has measurement done without dipstick tightened V7III with tightened. Maybe that is reason why V7III came overfilled from dealer's first service (oil all the way on cross-hatched area even on cold)
Excellent video my friend. It gave me the confidence to go ahead and try it myself. One question? Do you know how to reset the maintenance icon on the dash?
LOL, pretty acrobatic to adjust the valves. Looks so much more crampy than it actually is on these bikes. „Just snug enough“ with what tool? Toolsize? Is it the same snug with a small wrench vs. A bigger wrench, vs. A tube-type, anything? There is, so just snug enough won‘t cut it if the material is too soft, get into the NM, there are so many NM tools available, it should be no problem. It also tells the more experienced what category of just snug is meant. Sometimes the difference between 3 & 5 Nm becomes very visible in your pocket, when you have to rebuild engine parts. Been doing this valve, carb, oil on my bikes (brits) forever, just like a gas-stop exercise on the side of the road, easy, everyone can who‘s not afraid, just needs a few turns exercised at the garage at home and the fear is gone. Use the tools you carry with you on travel, so you know their „feel“ of force. So you‘re saying the engine should run on 1.6L instead of 1.8L? Interesting.
Hi Jesse, thinking in buying a V7 but reading some of the threads regarding to electronics reliability is affecting my decision. What's your experience? TIA Paulo
Is this pretty much the same for a v7 ii? Was planning to do the oil for the first time soon but I could also have a look at the valves if it’s this simple.
I'm a little confused about how you get the piston to TDC. You have to rotate the rear wheel to get the intake valve all the way down, but then you also have to rotate the rear wheel to get the piston to rise. So wouldn't that mean you're changing the position of the intake valve as you're raising the piston to TDC?
Thanks for the tutorial. For the valve adjustment portion of the video, would the process be the same for a 2014 V7 (North American spec)? Where can I find the stock valve gaps for the valves for the 2014 motor? Thanks James
You were very precise about getting the piston at TDC on the compression stroke. I thought on newer engines the intake valve is already starting to open at TDC if not slightly before decreasing the valve tip to rocker gap. I'm not saying I'm right but I always adjusted valves about half way between BDC and TDC on the compression stroke when the cam lobe is on its lowest point for both intake and exhaust. Has something changed or am I just so old now I don't remember correctly.
I'm not sure I'm the best person to answer, but I have a v85 TT. I adjusted the valves using the method in the video (with proper lash values for the v85) and I ended up with valves that were definitely too loose/tappy, even when the motor was hottest. I decided to readjust and I used the EOIC method this time. It's super simple and I don't have to worry about being exactly at top dead center. The valves seem just right to me now. The bike idles better with just the right amount of valve tapping. I'm sure there's lots of videos explaining EOIC, but essentially it means you adjust the intake just as the exhaust valve starts to open, and you adjust the exhaust just as the intake starts to close.
Aren't some washers made of soft metal, and are made to be squeezed a bit to seal better? I believe some oil filters come with a new washer for that reason.
nice and clean instructions i did notice at the end how the bike seemed to change into what was probably a racer given the red frame , but i forgive you as it doesn't matter these are pretty much all the same motor . . i've ridden jap n british bikes for over 5 decades but the gods guided me to moto guzzi my 14 stone is the best bike i've had and i've had some bloody great bikes
I have a V7 III 2017 model, the twin of the bike in this video. The Moto Guzzi V7 III Stone maintenance and repair manual, which I purchased from Moto Guzzi indicates the valve clearance is .010 intake and .015 exhaust. This is on page 58 of the manual in the Maintenance section. Who's correct?
I also think that the adjustment measure is not well taken. In the specifications of the workshop manual it says exactly that for the intake they are 0.10mm (0.0039 inches) and for the exhaust 0.15mm (0.0059 inches). There is no difference between the US and Europe because they use the same fuel with the same octane number. Another thing is the pollution standards and there if there may be differences in the exhaust line (lambda probe, catalytic converter and silencer).
Today I decided to go for the first ride this year. I also have 2017 V7 ( I did oil change mid riding season last year and probably done under 2000k after that. . .I have note done valve adjustmentat that time) I let the bike run 10-15 min. When I put it in gear and 2nd gear it started flashing warning ⚠️ signal and wouldn't go pass 30km/h. . .no other indicators came on. I have noticed the tire pressure seems a bit lower then normal, but that should have come up as a warning on a digital display. So I am perplexed to what that might be. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Q&A is only for our Forum; www.guzzitech.com/forums/ -- see you there. In short; Inflate your tires, check your Traction Control setting (see your owner's manual), and all will return to normal for you.
Curious, why so accurate on setting TDC when adjusting valves? I thought on the compression stroke, both intake and exhaust valves are closed for many degrees (at least 30) before and after TDC. Thanks for the informative video. I like your easy manner when explaining.
Todd, do you recommend taking the timing cover off for V7II? I have a slight weep by the timing wire gasket that I'm not keen to tackle just yet (any advice?) Are you also advising that the oil level should be at the "min" fill mark on the stick? That check be done fully threaded / cold? I have had oil returned to the airbox (maybe about a cm or so of oil) usually indicating that i've overfilled. I've never had air filter issues because of it. Thought this would be okay as there is no return to the sump on the V7II. Thoughts?
Do you set valves with a cold engine (as per service manual)? You appear to have gone straight from draining oil, which is usually done warm, to setting the valves.
What exactly am I looking at where you're moving the piston to TDC. What's the red arrow pointing at? I'd like a bike I can work on myself for a change, my Ducatis are putting me in the poorhouse!!!
The 'T' handle allen is rising as the piston is pushing it up, and/or will fall if you go to far. They make a specialized tool for this if you want to invest in DIY tools. Yes, Ducatis will do that to you!
I hope you have time answer this. Do you recommend the same slightly-modified-from -the factory procedure for measuring oil level with the dipstick screwed in and only filling to the first mark for a 2016V7II?
I am curious, why the valve lash adjustment? Wouldn't ANY lash be a bad thing as the rockers are essentially slapping the valves instead of constantly riding them?
@@robertparisi8016 all dealers, whether powersports or cars, overcharge for service. They're probably charging $30+ per quart of oil, so $60+, then $20-30 for the oil filter, throw in another $10 for two $0.50 crush washers and bill out 2 hours shop labor at $100/hr...there's your $400 service friend.
Two questions I have with the modern 'small block' Guzzi engines (eg V7): a) Do they have problems with the cam chain tensioner? (my 1983 850 Le Mans III had a fixed cam chain tensioner, thus requiring replacement at around 12 thousand miles) b) Do they have issues with the clutch? (my 1983 850 Le Mans III developed wear in the clutch center hub, making the clutch plates not separating when the clutch lever was pulled in. Again this happened at around 12 thousand miles).
Jonathan L - these questions are well answered on our Forum; www.guzzitech.com/forums/forums/v7-v85-v9-chat-tech.215/ - we cannot answer these type of questions here. See you on the Forum.
A shop that makes money by servicing these bikes making a free video...for the back yard guys doing it themselves......classy man. Thank you for this. Very cool of you. Your site is now on my list.
craig a
It is always a good thing to put a dab of an anti-seize paste on sparking plug threads, the steel to aluminium sometime seizes, this prevents this occurring.
@@craigauckram1087 Don't do that. Aluminium head, steel spark plug and copper grease plus high voltage electricity = electrolytic reaction. The head corrodes, and then the spark plug shoots out.
Do set the spark plug to the correct gap. They come out of the box at 0.90mm which is incorrect. Too large a gap and they misfire at high revs.
@@craigauckram1087 I've been using anti-sieze for 45 or 50 years. It's messy, so use sparingly!
Also, I always change the aluminum washer on the drain plug. And sometimes even use a torque wrench just for fun.
Has a website that sells parts too. Have been happy with everything I've gotten there.
This has got to be the easiest bike to work on I've ever seen. This seals the deal, I'm getting a V7 Special.
You can not go wrong with a Moto Guzzi. Very easy to work onI. I have a 2018 v7 III special. I ride it to work everyday! Some days I want to pass work and keep riding…😂
This is how cool bikes were. And survivors still are. Air-cooled Moto Guzzi is the sole old architecture survivor, allowing you to deal with this at the side of the road or a gas station. Other bikes are built to incentivise you to go to the official shop.
As a DR650 owner I think this will be my next bike of my DR ever dies.
So useful to folks who are just getting started and building confidence on wrenching on their own bikes. I hope Piaggio knows that this is the sort of content that sells motorcycles.
I bought at 2019 last fall, and you're absolutely right, content like this made my buying decision much easier.
you've got a new subscriber here.
You covered valve adjustment and an oil change in 15 minutes.
so many 15 minute tutorial videos include 10 minutes of waffle and 5 minutes of actual content, and half the time they don't know what they're doing!! lol
The most professional and instructive service I've seen to date, thanks guys and keep em coming.
I think this was not real professional on a few things.
@@Zimmermann310 Witch things ? Thx
@@felixaras1 Ask your mum.
@@Zimmermann310 ok childish.
@@felixaras1 Do you have one? Or it was just lik in many cases a child care?
Knowing that it’s hard to find knowledgeable garages that services Guzzis and you guys teaching us step by step is just legend! Would work on my v9 while watching this!
Big thank you for helping bikers working on their guzzis. You are a top man.
Thanks for this, Todd & team. Appreciate your passion for giving back to the Guzzi community with both parts and instructional videos like this. Y'all rock.
My 1975 Guzzi T3 was most reliable / best motorcycle I have owned & have owned a bunch ! Am glad you did the valve adjustment portion as I will not own a "shim-under bucket" ! I want to be able to completely service the bike myself. Thank You RH
I agree with James Haydon. This is the clearest instruction video for oil change and valve clearance check and adjustment for the V7 I've seen to date too! With little gems of experience scattered in! Kudos to GTM!
It's been years since I had a Guzzi in the stable, but I remember doing the valves was VERY simple, this video reminded me of that. Using a straw to determine top-dead center is a good idea, I used a chop stick or shish kabob skewer. I have a '23 V7 Special Edition, so this video will definitely come in handy. Also have a '24 V100 Navale, so not so much on that bike. But great video, easy to follow, plain language, nicely done!
Excellent video. Other than the beautiful styling, the main reason I traded in my old Ninja 400 for a V7 Stone is the Guzzi's raw simplicity and ease of maintenance.
Wow. The perpendicular design of the engine makes valve adjustment look like a breeze. Even more of a reason for me to one day own one of these machines.
It’s not perpendicular, it’s V, bmw it’s perpendicular, this is guzzi
It is total breeze.
@@CapitanTavish the shape of the engine doesnt matter. Its transverse, so the engine layout itself is perpendicular, the angle of the pistons means nothing
@@BetaRacer24 poor idiot
@@CapitanTavish BMW is horizontally opposed. There's no such thing as a "perpendicular" engine except in relation to the direction the bike travels, which is what he was saying. I sense the Dunning Kruger is strong in this one. 😂
Amazing video. Extremely useful, practical material, well photo’d and edited, and best of all, no droning on about peripheral crap, straight to the point. Thx!
I have been weighing several bikes and I think you just sold me on the Moto Guzzi. Very simply, this is something I can do.
I started driving air-cooled VWs. My first car was a '74 Thing (Type 181) and my first motorcycle was a Honga CL 90. I say this to point out that the level of wrenching I saw did not look unfamiliar in any way. I am hundreds of miles from any dealer, no matter the Make, and so self-maintenance will be a must.
The only other thing I would like to have seen, as I am told it is regular service, is clutch area cleaning and lubrication along with a shaft fluid change. In all, a great video.
The way i adjust my 2016 Eldorado is leave the back wheel on the ground. Put the bike in neutral. On the front of the engine between the horns is a rubber plug. Remove plug and use a socket wrench to turn the engine from there. It works really great. My face is inches away from the valves. Not so when i turn the back wheel. Also, i use wooden skewers in the spark plug holes to monitor piston TDC.
Yes, big blocks make it easy for 30 years. Modern small blocks have an oil cooled alternator, so no easy access.
Gracias por el vídeo. Tengo una duda, no hay que cambiar la juntas de las tapas del cilindro?
As a retired auto and motorcycle mechanic, it's so refreshing to me to see things being done WITHOUT every single drain plug and adjustment and fastener being cranked on and off with power tools. I was beginning to think maybe that was forbidden in UA-cam videos? When did Moto Guzzi V7s get oil filters that can be changed without dropping the oil pan? That was always one of the main things stopping me from buying one.
Barry, we still mostly hand wrench in our workshop. The small blocks have had this style filter forever. The big block Guzzis have had easy access spin on/off filters since 2006 to current. They are magical machines.
Thank you! This was exactly what I needed to complete my bike’s first service (and MY first-ever bike service). I was afraid there might be some weird tools necessary, but that is not the case (except that I’d HIGHLY recommend GT Moto’s oil cap tool!) All-in-all am easy process and I appreciate the added knowledge on my bike that comes from doing it myself.
This was really helpful. Thank you! Could you do a video showing the gear box oil change and the transmission oil change? : )
Quick follow up: I just changed the gear box and shaft drive (transmission) oil on my V7iii last week. It was pretty easy. The service manual I found on-line helped a lot. This is my first bike with gear oil...man, that stuff smells funky when you drain it. (Like rotten eggs.) Make sure to wear gloves and do it outside if possible, my garage smelled for a few days. (On the V7iii the gear oil drains down on the exhaust cross bar that runs under the bike, due to the placement of the drain plug. I covered that it in tinfoil, which turned out to be a good idea. I didn't end up getting smelly gear oil all over the exhaust cross bar.)
Pleaae do !!
@@daveco1270 how often do you have to to that?
Vic's Garage the gear box and transmission (or rear shaft drive) oil don't have to be changed very often, much less than regular engine oil, but I don't have the exact numbers. I think mine was good for another 20k miles or so after changing it. I sold the bike so I can't check the manual for service intervals. You can find a manual on line and it will have the service intervals listed. I probably didn't need to change gear box and shaft drive oil but the previous owner said he had a friend do his initial break in service, so I wasn't sure what was done. I tend to over change my oils just to get safe. Now I only have one bike in my garage (an old Honda CB750) and it only has one type of oil to change.
I love these maintenance videos. It makes me consider buying one as o can then run it cheaply and properly. I hate money pits being working class on basic minimum wage
Guzzi and BMW twins - Thank you! - you make it so easy
Nice work Todd and crew, much appreciated. That oil wrench is on my list.
Thanks for a good direct video on the job, almost 3000 km to go before I need to do this as there are no dealers within 100 Miles.
I would suggest a couple changes! I wouold Never use pliers on the adjusters, use a small wrench, preferably a correct wrench-not an adjustable as was suggested. A bit of copper based anti sieze paste is highly recommended when installing any spark plug into an aluminum head; I would suggest putting some on those exhaust header threads where the pipes bolt to the head. I would also replace the rusty nuts with ss nuts. At about 7:55 this mechanic lets the wrench slip and almost dings the tank! that is not how to do it! I suggest putting the wrench on the nut and hold it down on the nut with your left hand, then give the wrench a bump with the open palm of your right hand. no risk of damage!
Nice video Todd! Very informative. Thank you so much! Agreed on the below comment on the gear box and final drive oil change, would be super helpful.
Why not hydraulic valves on a modest performer like this one? Manufacturing cost reduction?
Thank you so much for the video posting! I'm looking into buying a Moto Guzzi for the 2023 season. THIS is one of the big reasons I'm interested because thy are still suitable for the home mechanic to keep serviced.
Hi Todd, thank you very much for the excellent and very educational video. My name is Guillermo and I am greeting you from Argentina. I see that you set the intake and exhaust to 0.005 and 0.007 respectively. On the contrary, the service manual indicates 0.004 and 0.006. Could you please explain to me the reason why you set 0.005 and 0.007?
I got my '22 back from its first service at EuroCycles Sonoma. It was leaking oil so bad I had to trailer it back. When I picked it up I noticed it was missing the front brake light switch. loaned to another bike. Riding home 15 miles later the R. side exhaust was falling off for lack of the mounting bolt...Removed to replace a faulty rear wheel
Tell me please how often you need to do valve adjustment? Thank you!
Great video, thank you.
I am interested where you got the valve clearances from. You mention intake 0.005 and exhaust 0.007. The V7 III manual says 0.0039 (.10mm) and 0.0059 (.15mm)
Thanks/welcome. We run in between U.S. and Euro Spec - check the sticker on the rear fender under the seat for Euro spec.
I also think that the adjustment measure is not well taken.
In the specifications of the workshop manual it says exactly that for the intake they are 0.10mm (0.0039 inches) and for the exhaust 0.15mm (0.0059 inches).
There is no difference between the US and Europe because they use the same fuel with the same octane number. Another thing is the pollution standards and there if there may be differences in the exhaust line (lambda probe, catalytic converter and silencer).
Nice! Excellent tutorial! Love how easy the v7 is to work on. 👌🏽
Yess! Thank you, more of this please!
Pure class, wearing a chronograph on leather when servicing.
The crystal must be a disaster.
Thank you for the great tutorial! GTM is such a benefit to MG riders!
Any chance you guys can do one for changing the drive shaft fluids?
What would happen if you never did valve adjustment?
And how often do you need to do it ?
Overall very well done. Like BMW airhead boxers valve service is super simple. Unlike newer tech OHC engines where it may take an hour just to get to the valve cover, then if adjustment is needed cams may need to be removed and shims replaced.
The oil change was straight forward, just wish they would use a spin-on filter. I would have started the engine briefly to allow oil to fill the new dry filter before the final level check.
Thanks, true. Several obvious steps we left out, like starting the engine prior to checking the final level. Some common sense applies. We didn’t post this to get critiqued, more to show those with less knowledge on what’s entailed. We always recommend someone knowledgeable or those somewhat versed in wrenching of course.
Thank you for this video my nearest Moto Guzzi shop is 400 miles away! Do you have a video on removing the front and rear wheels when I’m ready to change the tires?
Just a quick question: so, if I understand correctly, you only move te back wheel once to Top dead Center (TDC) as mentioned in the video point 3:36 minutes, then find TDC, now you don't touch the back wheel and check both intake and out take valve, and if needed, adjust. Is this correct?
What about resetting the service indicator?
How is quality build on guzzi bikes? Any where near japanese or far behind ? Thnx
That was excellent, thank you! I have 45 miles on my Special......so I guess you can say I am a new owner, and this guide is just what I needed.
Looking at the side of engine crankcase there is a large silver plug,if you remove that i bet there will be a mark on the flywheel for tdc,Honda engines i worked on had that,you need to do it on the compression stroke and make sure you do lock nuts up tight or it will end badly if the nut comes loose.🙂
They finally managed to make the oil-filter accessible w/o taking the pan off ;-) nice
Hello! I really liked your video. I have a question for you, is it possible to service MG without having a dealer, it's just that these are so unique and distinctive bikes that I just don't see an alternative to them? For more than a hundred years, bikes have been produced at the same factory, almost manually, who can "boast" about it now. Thanks!
There's a bit of an issue concerning valve clearances with the V7 III. The V7 III service manual says .004" and .006" but underneath the seat there is a sticker that says .006" and .008". I called many Moto Guzzi dealerships across the US today; 9 out of 13 say they reference the service manual. Then I spoke with the piaggio group customer care about this; They said the sticker is correct stating that the US and CA versions have an evap sensor to meet emissions and because of this the valve clearances should be set to .006" and .008". Then I proceeded to tell her about all the dealerships that refer to the service manual accessed through the piaggio group dealership portal. Even though my dealership does the .006" and .008", I told them to go .005" and .007" ...Split the difference just GT MotoCycles.
There's no right or wrong in either or in between. We favor Euro spec. Enjoy.
Great video, The manual is poorly written, Guzzi cheaped out when they wrote it. Also I had 3 dealers work on my V7 and they all overfilled the fluids on a cross county trip. I had gear oil coming out on my boot and motor oil in the breather.
Thank you for service video,just I have one question ,when you tight the oil bolt on how low you push on tool?how Nm for tight oil bolt,and oil filter? Thank you 👍
Nice video. I see that dipstick measurement on guzzis is whole science :-) V7II has measurement done without dipstick tightened V7III with tightened. Maybe that is reason why V7III came overfilled from dealer's first service (oil all the way on cross-hatched area even on cold)
THANK YOU.
GREATLY APPRECIATED.
10/10.
WELL done.
Fantastico! Thanks for the video, keep'm coming...
Wish all bikes are this easy doing valve adjustment
What engine oil, gearbox oil and shaft drive oil do you recommend please
Does anything need to be done differently for the V7 850? Also, can you access everything using a center stand instead of a lift?
Use anti -seize on the plugs !
Thanks to Todd and the crew great simply explained video on service; would this service be very similar if performed on new version V7 850?
That was great. The oil change I'm good. Not so sure about the valve adjustment. You find the highest point for the intake and set them?
Excellent video my friend. It gave me the confidence to go ahead and try it myself. One question? Do you know how to reset the maintenance icon on the dash?
LOL, pretty acrobatic to adjust the valves. Looks so much more crampy than it actually is on these bikes. „Just snug enough“ with what tool? Toolsize? Is it the same snug with a small wrench vs. A bigger wrench, vs. A tube-type, anything? There is, so just snug enough won‘t cut it if the material is too soft, get into the NM, there are so many NM tools available, it should be no problem. It also tells the more experienced what category of just snug is meant. Sometimes the difference between 3 & 5 Nm becomes very visible in your pocket, when you have to rebuild engine parts. Been doing this valve, carb, oil on my bikes (brits) forever, just like a gas-stop exercise on the side of the road, easy, everyone can who‘s not afraid, just needs a few turns exercised at the garage at home and the fear is gone. Use the tools you carry with you on travel, so you know their „feel“ of force. So you‘re saying the engine should run on 1.6L instead of 1.8L? Interesting.
Is there not an inspection cover on the motor with timing marks to line up?
dont even have MG but watched it glued.Love it
I have just ordered a new V7 850 I guess the procedure is similar. I was interested in the how you adjust the valves, not complicated at all. Thanks.
Yes, the same procedure.
Do you not soak the oil filter in oil prior to fitting?
This was a great video! I have a 2016 VII stone. This will help a lot, thanks.
Hi Jesse, thinking in buying a V7 but reading some of the threads regarding to electronics reliability is affecting my decision. What's your experience? TIA Paulo
To set the valve clearance, can't you just turn the engine until the midpoint of closed valve by watching the rockers, instead of measuring TDC?
Is this pretty much the same for a v7 ii? Was planning to do the oil for the first time soon but I could also have a look at the valves if it’s this simple.
Timing marks on flywheel non? Again, why you cannot spin the engine from the front?
I'm a little confused about how you get the piston to TDC.
You have to rotate the rear wheel to get the intake valve all the way down, but then you also have to rotate the rear wheel to get the piston to rise. So wouldn't that mean you're changing the position of the intake valve as you're raising the piston to TDC?
very useful - except you missed the final shot of the fins as you bolted up the filter - I assume in line with the sump fins?
Yes, same as it comes off. ;)
Thanks for the tutorial. For the valve adjustment portion of the video, would the process be the same for a 2014 V7 (North American spec)? Where can I find the stock valve gaps for the valves for the 2014 motor? Thanks James
You were very precise about getting the piston at TDC on the compression stroke. I thought on newer engines the intake valve is already starting to open at TDC if not slightly before decreasing the valve tip to rocker gap. I'm not saying I'm right but I always adjusted valves about half way between BDC and TDC on the compression stroke when the cam lobe is on its lowest point for both intake and exhaust. Has something changed or am I just so old now I don't remember correctly.
I'm not sure I'm the best person to answer, but I have a v85 TT. I adjusted the valves using the method in the video (with proper lash values for the v85) and I ended up with valves that were definitely too loose/tappy, even when the motor was hottest.
I decided to readjust and I used the EOIC method this time. It's super simple and I don't have to worry about being exactly at top dead center. The valves seem just right to me now. The bike idles better with just the right amount of valve tapping.
I'm sure there's lots of videos explaining EOIC, but essentially it means you adjust the intake just as the exhaust valve starts to open, and you adjust the exhaust just as the intake starts to close.
Note to self, filter spring points down.
Aren't some washers made of soft metal, and are made to be squeezed a bit to seal better?
I believe some oil filters come with a new washer for that reason.
Yes they are. We have found them to be reusable for many times in our workshop. Feel free to replace them every time. Many do.
nice and clean instructions i did notice at the end how the bike seemed to change into what was probably a racer given the red frame , but i forgive you as it doesn't matter these are pretty much all the same motor . . i've ridden jap n british bikes for over 5 decades but the gods guided me to moto guzzi my 14 stone is the best bike i've had and i've had some bloody great bikes
What feeler gauge do you use and why? Is there anything wrong with factory specs?
I have a V7 III 2017 model, the twin of the bike in this video. The Moto Guzzi V7 III Stone maintenance and repair manual, which I purchased from Moto Guzzi indicates the valve clearance is .010 intake and .015 exhaust. This is on page 58 of the manual in the Maintenance section. Who's correct?
There's no right or wrong... read the sticker on the fender under your seat, and choose for yourself. ;)
You seem to have an extra zero in there. Its .10mm intake and .15mm exhaust.
I also think that the adjustment measure is not well taken.
In the specifications of the workshop manual it says exactly that for the intake they are 0.10mm (0.0039 inches) and for the exhaust 0.15mm (0.0059 inches).
There is no difference between the US and Europe because they use the same fuel with the same octane number. Another thing is the pollution standards and there if there may be differences in the exhaust line (lambda probe, catalytic converter and silencer).
Today I decided to go for the first ride this year. I also have 2017 V7 ( I did oil change mid riding season last year and probably done under 2000k after that. . .I have note done valve adjustmentat that time) I let the bike run 10-15 min. When I put it in gear and 2nd gear it started flashing warning ⚠️ signal and wouldn't go pass 30km/h. . .no other indicators came on. I have noticed the tire pressure seems a bit lower then normal, but that should have come up as a warning on a digital display. So I am perplexed to what that might be. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Q&A is only for our Forum; www.guzzitech.com/forums/ -- see you there. In short; Inflate your tires, check your Traction Control setting (see your owner's manual), and all will return to normal for you.
Thanks a lot for this. So informative and helpful.
Hi, nice video. What's the reference of the UFI oil filter?
Pedro Alves - see our Forum at GuzziTech.com for more details.
Thank you. Good info, just make sure you say clearly the double zeros for dummies like me
Curious, why so accurate on setting TDC when adjusting valves? I thought on the compression stroke, both intake and exhaust valves are closed for many degrees (at least 30) before and after TDC. Thanks for the informative video. I like your easy manner when explaining.
The valves may be closed but the rockers are still moving, you want the point with max gap, ie TDC.
Great vid. I assume all this applies to a Norge as well? (Fairings removed of course :-)
Todd, do you recommend taking the timing cover off for V7II? I have a slight weep by the timing wire gasket that I'm not keen to tackle just yet (any advice?)
Are you also advising that the oil level should be at the "min" fill mark on the stick? That check be done fully threaded / cold?
I have had oil returned to the airbox (maybe about a cm or so of oil) usually indicating that i've overfilled. I've never had air filter issues because of it. Thought this would be okay as there is no return to the sump on the V7II. Thoughts?
If valve adjustments are suppose to be done on a cold engine and oil changes done with the engine warm how are you doing them at the same time.
We typically overnight drain fluids, valve lash next day. Our videos are often spliced together, but oil drain isn’t critical if not done hot.
What motorcycle stand are you using??
Great video! How often are the valve adjustments done?
Appreciated. Guzzi recommends every 6k. We say 5k to keep the math simple.
Great video......thank you.
Do you set valves with a cold engine (as per service manual)? You appear to have gone straight from draining oil, which is usually done warm, to setting the valves.
Jeff Slade - yes, to save time in the video, oil drained warm. Valves set overnight cold.
What exactly am I looking at where you're moving the piston to TDC. What's the red arrow pointing at? I'd like a bike I can work on myself for a change, my Ducatis are putting me in the poorhouse!!!
The 'T' handle allen is rising as the piston is pushing it up, and/or will fall if you go to far. They make a specialized tool for this if you want to invest in DIY tools. Yes, Ducatis will do that to you!
wishing all motorcycles are as easy to service as the Guzzi
I hope you have time answer this. Do you recommend the same slightly-modified-from -the factory procedure for measuring oil level with the dipstick screwed in and only filling to the first mark for a 2016V7II?
Are you checking oil (at the end of the video) with the bike upright or on the side-stand?
Upright in a wheel chock, you can see in the video.
Very easy do valve adjustment on this moto guzzi honda you need lift tank unplug all bunch of connector and sensor
Yes, but how do you determine TDC compression stroke from TDC exhaust stroke?
Watch inlet valve open then close piston will be rising on compression stroke
I am curious, why the valve lash adjustment? Wouldn't ANY lash be a bad thing as the rockers are essentially slapping the valves instead of constantly riding them?
Heat = Expansion
Do you work on ducatis as well ? I would love to do this on my monster 821..
Great video. I feel like I can do the next service myself.
How does the Guzzi dealer justify $400. For this? Is this unreasonable?]
@@robertparisi8016 all dealers, whether powersports or cars, overcharge for service. They're probably charging $30+ per quart of oil, so $60+, then $20-30 for the oil filter, throw in another $10 for two $0.50 crush washers and bill out 2 hours shop labor at $100/hr...there's your $400 service friend.
Two questions I have with the modern 'small block' Guzzi engines (eg V7):
a) Do they have problems with the cam chain tensioner? (my 1983 850 Le Mans III had a fixed cam chain tensioner, thus requiring replacement at around 12 thousand miles)
b) Do they have issues with the clutch? (my 1983 850 Le Mans III developed wear in the clutch center hub, making the clutch plates not separating when the clutch lever was pulled in. Again this happened at around 12 thousand miles).
Jonathan L - these questions are well answered on our Forum; www.guzzitech.com/forums/forums/v7-v85-v9-chat-tech.215/ - we cannot answer these type of questions here. See you on the Forum.
Could someone explain how he got the piston to climb in order to get it to TDC? Do you just bump the back wheel forward until it stops?
Yes, as the video briefly shows, move the wheel forward to make it climb, back if you went too far.