Thank you so much! I have been looking for such videos with clear cameras and instructions. Please feel free to not edit out - I don't mind longer videos detailing every key step. Looking forward to the next videos. My only wish is that you had released this during winter - now i"ll have to find some time from riding :)
Thanks for the feedback. I hope these help you. Next one out in two weeks...It won't take you long to do this stuff. It's pretty straight forward. Cheers.
Now I really want a Guzzi. My Triumph is trickier just to get to the air filter. Haven’t done the valves yet, but it looks a bit tricky. Very nice video. I appreciate the detail.
It's a great solution I've used before on my Husaberg. I can't take credit, I saw it used years ago by a friend with a vertical twin-but that was no where near as easy to adjust valves on. Cheers.
You can also stick a long thin flat blade screwdriver through fins of head near exhaust header and push spark plug cap up. Better than pulling from top
Looking good so far, BMR! Beetle's recommended valve settings having done the tune were 0.1 inlet and 0.15 exhaust. My bike certainly doesn't pop & bang on the over-run like she used to.
Nice to know I'm not into unknown territory. I'm waiting for a new OBD2 to 3 pin cable right now, as the previous one died when I foolishly let the neg terminal flick momentarily against the pos battery terminal - what a no, no! Cheers.
I agree the BMW airheads and the MG's are simple machines to work on in terms of valve adjustments. Did you re-torque the head bolts before you adjusted the valve clearances? As for values, I wonder if the more generous clearances are labeled as break-in clearances? Old BMW airheads have two sets of values; break-in period and post break-in. Some mechanics will use the break-in figures regardless. Were the TDC index marks difficult to see and that is why the chop stick method?
The chop stick is just so much easier, especially when turning the rear wheel. The timing marks are a fiddle. I'm not sure about the two sets, although I suspect the original factory clearances, being more conservative, allow more room for error and err on the side of safety rather than performance. No, I left the head bolts alone, as there are no weeps and the gaskets are likely "memorized". Cheers.
Having had a quick look, I *think* it would on the bottom of the oil pan, allthough it is finned for heat dispersal, it would *likely* be strong enough. I would suggest you ask the guys at the Griso Ghetto forum before taking my word for it though. Cheers.
The rubber gasket of the head cover on my guzzi might need replacing since a bit of oil is seeping on the left side. Should I grease or oil the new gasket when installing or just keep it dry? Great video! Thank you!
They have a reputation for leaking, although mine are good right now. It depends how they are fastened (and I can't remember!), but if they are sandwiched between two non rotating surfaces, then no light oiling. But if a surface spins on contact with the rubber, then a very light coating of oil will stop any pinching and distortion. IF my memory serves me correct, I used a very light coating of oil, and tightened to spec torque and no more. Cheers.
@@BlueMarbleRider alright great! Thanks for your reply. Yea the gasket is simply sandwiched between two surfaces; it's exactly the one here in your video when you point to it with your finger 2:57 It's squished down between the two surfaces when the head cover fixing screws are tightened to spec. Wasn't sure if any oiling was needed. Cheers!
Having never seen a non rollerized Griso, I can't rightly say. Go to Griso Ghetto and ask those folks - they're a font of knowlege and will know the answer. Good luck. Cheers.
How did you get the TDC? Did you have to remove the oil first? I'd like to do the adjustment, but not sure how far the stick should go and what the positions are of the phases of sucking, compression, ignition and exhaustion. You only checked it by shaking those parts a bit to feel a slight rattle? You don't feel any rattle otherwise? Do you rotate the wheel or something else? Basically, I would like to understand everything regarding the top dead center. Thanks!
I rotate the wheel in 6th gear with the spark plugs out. You can tell which stroke of the cycle you are on by checking the inlet/exhaust valve clearances with feeler guages. When the inlet opens, that is the suck; they will both close for compression and ignition, then the exhaust will open on the 4th stroke - exhaust. At this point the inlets should still be shut, and exhaust open... Cheers.
@@BlueMarbleRider Thanks, BMR! No need to worry about oil spill? Warm or cold to do the adjustment? Assuming, it's okay and should be done when the engine is cold.
I have just done it on the right side cylinder. :) The intake valves were precisely 0.1mm, but the outtake valves were around 0.1mm, too, so I made them a bit looser to get 0.15mm. I think it's important to keep either the shim or the screwdriver on the adjusting hex screw when you tighten the the lock nut as that tightens the adjustment screw with itself. I don't really see much difference yet between the before and after sound, but I'll test it later after it cools down and can adjust the left side block, too. I didn't put it on stand - don't have - but as I see, there's not much difference anyways as you can move in 6th gear the bike in the riding position - just gets harder before it pushes out the rod, even spit out the straw I used. :) Also it's irrelevant I think whether it's on the kick stand or up straight, the screws are not affected by that. Thank you for giving confidence, BMR, I'll report back after I finished the left side. Cheers!
Done to the left side, too. The good news is that I don't hear/feel any degradation, but on the contrary, it feels like two clocks running in sync. The exhaust valves on the left side were also a bit tighter than the spec, the top valve was around 0.13 mm and the bottom one at around 0.1 mm. Set them both to 0.15 mm. After these adjusments, I went for a shorter run (15 km) and now I notice at gear shift a very short pop, like an airgun shot sound, but it rather sounds nice than disturbing. It's like a feedback that the shift was successful. :) I have the Termignoni, in theory the previous owner upgraded the map with Guzzi Diag, so not sure if I have to touch anything else.
Another update: it became fantastic. Not a big change, I suppose, but it is to the feel and sound. Now the roar is more emphasized, no rattling, but the speed feels less as the sound is calmer, too. It's hard to give it back.
It's been a while since I did the valves, and can't, off-hand, remember the specs. But if I used 0.1mm inlet and 0.15mm exhaust, then, yes, it is running beautifully. So whatever I did worked. Cheers.
@@BlueMarbleRider Hi, I checked the valves and the 0.1 and 0.15 are factory specs :-) Some valves were a bit tight and other loose. (last owner job). Thank you for the video. Now running like Swiss clock.
I'm fascinated by your channel. Thank you or uploading these videos, I can see your passion for Griso. I have just bought a 1200 8V SE Red Trophy a week ago. Need to learn a lot to make the right adjustment. I hear some rattling noise from the front at around 2800-3000 RPM. Have you noticed anything like that? Cannot tell if it's from the phone mount or from somewhere else...
I haven't noticed it, but that doesn' mean it's not happening. When I get back on it, I'll certainly listen out for the noise and get back to you if I hear it.
@@BlueMarbleRidercan you do a detailed video on how to find TDC? It looks straight forward, but I believe there are a few rotations needed to get it “true” TDC.
Hi BMR. Am about to adjust my valves (2017 8V SE) and want to know if you simply spun the rear wheel to move the pistons to obtain TDC. Pete Roper says to use a wrench to turn the shaft via the alternator cover. What did you do?
Yes, Beetle: it's a 100$US for the map of your choice re exhaust etc. He has both a website with instructions and a facebook shop: facebook.com/100063553615018/shop/?ref_code=mini_shop_profile_plus_header_cta&ref_surface=profile
Just follow the instructions to the letter, including which connectors to buy & it's easy. If I can do it, anyone can! The hardest part was finding the connector on my Griso! Up on the frame rails at the rear, on the right. 😉
Coming next Friday. Intersperse them with other content; otherwise, there are too many complaints from non Guzzi owners. Can't please 'em all :-) Cheers.
And that's the truth. I have 3, 2vavlve Guzzis. I will have a Griso one day. Enjoyed the video and RIDE SAFE OUT THERE!
Thanks, Henry. Quite the Guzzi collection you have! Cheers.
Thank you so much! I have been looking for such videos with clear cameras and instructions. Please feel free to not edit out - I don't mind longer videos detailing every key step. Looking forward to the next videos. My only wish is that you had released this during winter - now i"ll have to find some time from riding :)
Thanks for the feedback. I hope these help you. Next one out in two weeks...It won't take you long to do this stuff. It's pretty straight forward. Cheers.
Now I really want a Guzzi. My Triumph is trickier just to get to the air filter. Haven’t done the valves yet, but it looks a bit tricky. Very nice video. I appreciate the detail.
Cheers.
I use a chop stick as well on my guzzi. Work very well
It's a great solution I've used before on my Husaberg. I can't take credit, I saw it used years ago by a friend with a vertical twin-but that was no where near as easy to adjust valves on. Cheers.
Best use ever for a chop stick. Who wants to eat their food with knitting needles?
Hint for the stand: you can fit a 1/2 breaker bar on it, makes lifting real easy
Great hint - thanks. I have the perfect tool. Cheers.
You can also stick a long thin flat blade screwdriver through fins of head near exhaust header and push spark plug cap up. Better than pulling from top
Great tip!
Looking good so far, BMR! Beetle's recommended valve settings having done the tune were 0.1 inlet and 0.15 exhaust. My bike certainly doesn't pop & bang on the over-run like she used to.
Nice to know I'm not into unknown territory. I'm waiting for a new OBD2 to 3 pin cable right now, as the previous one died when I foolishly let the neg terminal flick momentarily against the pos battery terminal - what a no, no! Cheers.
@@BlueMarbleRider The cables I bought were actually Fiat Group! They fit Dukes as well as Guzzis.
I've found a bit more control using a T-handle allen for the valve adjustment as opposed to the ratchet and socket.
Thanks - that's a great idea, far more precise. Cheers.
I agree the BMW airheads and the MG's are simple machines to work on in terms of valve adjustments. Did you re-torque the head bolts before you adjusted the valve clearances? As for values, I wonder if the more generous clearances are labeled as break-in clearances? Old BMW airheads have two sets of values; break-in period and post break-in. Some mechanics will use the break-in figures regardless. Were the TDC index marks difficult to see and that is why the chop stick method?
The chop stick is just so much easier, especially when turning the rear wheel. The timing marks are a fiddle. I'm not sure about the two sets, although I suspect the original factory clearances, being more conservative, allow more room for error and err on the side of safety rather than performance. No, I left the head bolts alone, as there are no weeps and the gaskets are likely "memorized". Cheers.
Like the centre stand. Would a flat motorcycle jack lift work with whatever gear is underneath the griso?
Having had a quick look, I *think* it would on the bottom of the oil pan, allthough it is finned for heat dispersal, it would *likely* be strong enough. I would suggest you ask the guys at the Griso Ghetto forum before taking my word for it though. Cheers.
The rubber gasket of the head cover on my guzzi might need replacing since a bit of oil is seeping on the left side.
Should I grease or oil the new gasket when installing or just keep it dry?
Great video!
Thank you!
They have a reputation for leaking, although mine are good right now. It depends how they are fastened (and I can't remember!), but if they are sandwiched between two non rotating surfaces, then no light oiling. But if a surface spins on contact with the rubber, then a very light coating of oil will stop any pinching and distortion. IF my memory serves me correct, I used a very light coating of oil, and tightened to spec torque and no more. Cheers.
@@BlueMarbleRider alright great!
Thanks for your reply.
Yea the gasket is simply sandwiched between two surfaces; it's exactly the one here in your video when you point to it with your finger 2:57
It's squished down between the two surfaces when the head cover fixing screws are tightened to spec. Wasn't sure if any oiling was needed.
Cheers!
Very nice instructions thank you
Glad it was helpful!
By looking at the cam followers can you easily see if it’s got a cam roller kit fitted?
Having never seen a non rollerized Griso, I can't rightly say. Go to Griso Ghetto and ask those folks - they're a font of knowlege and will know the answer. Good luck. Cheers.
How did you get the TDC? Did you have to remove the oil first? I'd like to do the adjustment, but not sure how far the stick should go and what the positions are of the phases of sucking, compression, ignition and exhaustion. You only checked it by shaking those parts a bit to feel a slight rattle? You don't feel any rattle otherwise? Do you rotate the wheel or something else? Basically, I would like to understand everything regarding the top dead center. Thanks!
I rotate the wheel in 6th gear with the spark plugs out. You can tell which stroke of the cycle you are on by checking the inlet/exhaust valve clearances with feeler guages. When the inlet opens, that is the suck; they will both close for compression and ignition, then the exhaust will open on the 4th stroke - exhaust. At this point the inlets should still be shut, and exhaust open... Cheers.
@@BlueMarbleRider Thanks, BMR! No need to worry about oil spill? Warm or cold to do the adjustment?
Assuming, it's okay and should be done when the engine is cold.
I have just done it on the right side cylinder. :)
The intake valves were precisely 0.1mm, but the outtake valves were around 0.1mm, too, so I made them a bit looser to get 0.15mm. I think it's important to keep either the shim or the screwdriver on the adjusting hex screw when you tighten the the lock nut as that tightens the adjustment screw with itself. I don't really see much difference yet between the before and after sound, but I'll test it later after it cools down and can adjust the left side block, too. I didn't put it on stand - don't have - but as I see, there's not much difference anyways as you can move in 6th gear the bike in the riding position - just gets harder before it pushes out the rod, even spit out the straw I used. :) Also it's irrelevant I think whether it's on the kick stand or up straight, the screws are not affected by that.
Thank you for giving confidence, BMR, I'll report back after I finished the left side. Cheers!
Done to the left side, too. The good news is that I don't hear/feel any degradation, but on the contrary, it feels like two clocks running in sync. The exhaust valves on the left side were also a bit tighter than the spec, the top valve was around 0.13 mm and the bottom one at around 0.1 mm. Set them both to 0.15 mm.
After these adjusments, I went for a shorter run (15 km) and now I notice at gear shift a very short pop, like an airgun shot sound, but it rather sounds nice than disturbing. It's like a feedback that the shift was successful. :)
I have the Termignoni, in theory the previous owner upgraded the map with Guzzi Diag, so not sure if I have to touch anything else.
Another update: it became fantastic. Not a big change, I suppose, but it is to the feel and sound. Now the roar is more emphasized, no rattling, but the speed feels less as the sound is calmer, too. It's hard to give it back.
Hello, can you tell me if the engine is running better with 0.1 mm inlet and 0.15 mm exhaust? Thank you in advance.
It's been a while since I did the valves, and can't, off-hand, remember the specs. But if I used 0.1mm inlet and 0.15mm exhaust, then, yes, it is running beautifully. So whatever I did worked. Cheers.
@@BlueMarbleRider Hi, I checked the valves and the 0.1 and 0.15 are factory specs :-) Some valves were a bit tight and other loose. (last owner job). Thank you for the video. Now running like Swiss clock.
I'm fascinated by your channel. Thank you or uploading these videos, I can see your passion for Griso. I have just bought a 1200 8V SE Red Trophy a week ago. Need to learn a lot to make the right adjustment.
I hear some rattling noise from the front at around 2800-3000 RPM. Have you noticed anything like that? Cannot tell if it's from the phone mount or from somewhere else...
I haven't noticed it, but that doesn' mean it's not happening. When I get back on it, I'll certainly listen out for the noise and get back to you if I hear it.
So uh please don’t yell at me…… I just grabbed a Griso SE as my first bike…… at-least the maintenance is easy? 😅
Wow. That's a bold move, but if you are judicious with the throttle in the wet and slow to test its limits, you'll have fun. Enjoy.
How did you rotate motor for TDC?
I put it in gear and turn the wheel. (I have a removable centre stand for it).
@@BlueMarbleRidercan you do a detailed video on how to find TDC? It looks straight forward, but I believe there are a few rotations needed to get it “true” TDC.
Hi BMR. Am about to adjust my valves (2017 8V SE) and want to know if you simply spun the rear wheel to move the pistons to obtain TDC. Pete Roper says to use a wrench to turn the shaft via the alternator cover. What did you do?
Who is the person that does the ECU flash for the Moto Guzzi's? You mentioned a person by the name of Beatle? does this person have a website?
Yes, Beetle: it's a 100$US for the map of your choice re exhaust etc. He has both a website with instructions and a facebook shop:
facebook.com/100063553615018/shop/?ref_code=mini_shop_profile_plus_header_cta&ref_surface=profile
@@BlueMarbleRider Thank you very much
Just follow the instructions to the letter, including which connectors to buy & it's easy. If I can do it, anyone can! The hardest part was finding the connector on my Griso! Up on the frame rails at the rear, on the right. 😉
Where is your part 2 video of the service
Coming next Friday. Intersperse them with other content; otherwise, there are too many complaints from non Guzzi owners. Can't please 'em all :-) Cheers.
👍