Chevy Cruze 1.4L Bad oil leak. Timing cover gasket replacement.
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- Customer states bad oil leak... this one was leaving puddles and streaks of oil down the driveway after a short drive. Leaking too badly to ignore and put off any longer. HD footage of replacement process including some tips
#mechanic #cars #tipsandtricks #professional #engine #knowledge
Highest quality automotive repair video I've ever seen on UA-cam, or anywhere for that matter, and I've been connected online since the early 80s (before the Internet).
That is quite a compliment. Thank you very much!
I totally agree, man you should be on tv
Thats crazy. Thank you! Maybe some day you'll see me put on live classes...
11:13
This guy is a professional. He took his time to take the video and explain everythigh ...high five sir You deserve it.
Thank you very much! I do what I can.
I don't think the way he did that gasket maker on the oil pan is the "professional" way.
@@matthewlobberecht6187 that’s interesting. How would you do it?
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist well I'm not saying you didn't actually do it the way I do it but by what I saw in the video you didn't which was take ur finger and spread it around the pan while not lifting ur finger until it's done. And use light pressure so you can allow the gasket material to be as thick as possible. Generally the service manual says 1/4" bead all the way around so when it mates to the block and squishes, it cuts that thickness in half which is adequate sealing.
@@matthewlobberecht6187 yeah, I used to do that. I took enough of them apart over the years and it doesn’t seem to make a difference on machined surfaces.
That method works really well with old cork gaskets though.
Unbelievable how good this guy is. I have owned my 2015 Cruze 1.4 since it was 10 months old. I have had numerous antifreeze leaks and a couple of oil leaks. Quite possibly the leakiest engine GM has ever made. Looking forward to the day I no longer own it.
Thank you very much! Yes these engines require constant inspection for leaks.
Oil leak engineered so btm chais doesnt rust out keeps lubed up
I have a 15 too and have so many issues. Dealing with this leak now.
@@capricedembek2249I bought my 2014 1.4l turbo brand new. I've never had coolant or oil leaks til I hit around 100k miles. Thermostat, water outlet and others all leaked recently. And radiator cracked on the black plastic recently. But now I'm dripping oil underneath. I haven't pin pointed it yet. It's burning and smoking from the top too
This has been the beat video I've seen to date with perfect video and explanations while working. You are the definition of a Master Mechanic. Look forward to viewing your channel.
Wow thank you very much! I appreciate that. Stay tuned!
Been driving my car a few days now and I felt compelled to make sure anyone watching this video knows how doable this is for the average person as long as they follow this dudes instruction.
I’ve used my Haynes book to complete numerous repairs on my silly Cruze that’s going on 200k now.
This video is 10 times more useful than the Haynes write up. Use this video and only mess with the Haynes when it comes to torque specs.
Successfully completed due to this UA-cam video.
Only thing I’d do is mark a couple bolts on the engine cover, there’s 2 larger bolts on the side engine cover, and they thread perfectly into the engine mount holes…don’t do that lol.
Thank you! That was what I was hoping for. Im very glad this video could help you.
replaced oil pan gasket for the third time only to start the car up and lay under and visibly see the drip coming from the timing cover. what is the tool kit i need to for the timing?
@@marbledad does it come from front crankshaft oil seal? is there also squik sound?
If you take the oil feed line out the clamp goes right on. Then the oil line goes back in easier than fighting the clamp. Thanks for the video. I start my timing cover gasket this weekend. If it goes well I’ll do my 2nd Cruze right away!!!
Thanks for sharing. Check out the comments there have been many questions asked and answered thus far.
Feel free to comment additional questions if needed.
Thanks.
Hey, how did it go?
I appreciate the owner good habit of changing oil.
It is in excellent condition… I wonder if the engine has ever been replaced before but I did not see anything in the repair history about engine replacement.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialistawesome video I have a Buick encore which is the same engine as the car about how much this job cost because I'm afraid I got the same issue
@@solovinosolovino9450 thank you. Cost can vary. Approximately $1000 parts and labor to have this done.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialistwow 1000 dollars insane but worth it im assuming wow how long did it take to do this looks like it took hours to do like four hours
It’s about a 7 hour job.
Im about to tackle this job on my 15 this weekend. But i also havta do the head gasket. Follow ur procedure then remove the head would be the right order to do the job correct. Video was very helpful before tackling this job.
Yes after you remove the timing chain the head gasket isn’t much more work to remove. Feel free to comment additional questions if needed.
Thanks.
wow thank you so much for you efforts sir. my Trax leaks oil too. cheers from the Philippines!
I do what I can. Thank you very much!
Amazing work definition of detail 👌
Thank you!
Your video is fantastic and displays a high level of professionalism. I kindly request the list of tools required for the process, as well as a parts list and information regarding the materials used, particularly the liquid gasket. Thank you
Thank you very much!
From memory.... Use at your own risk.
You will need a basic mechanics tool kit of 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive metric sockets and wrenches, etc.
Razor blades for scraping and cleaning. Gloves. Shop towels. Floor jack. Jack stands. Safety glasses. Service Manual. Torque wrench.
You'll need a torx socket set, and also an External Torx socket set, also known as E Torx.
You'll need special service tools:
EN-952 Fixing Pin
EN-953-A Fixing Tool
EN-955-10Fixing Pin from EN-955Kit
or equivalent aftermarket kit, many are available online.
1 - valve cover gasket.... must replace
2 - cam actuator solenoid seals
1 - water pump kit with gasket..... most likely leaking, inspect it
2 - water pump bolts... must replace...parts dept will help you
3 - engine mount bolts, mount to bracket....must replace
3 - engine mount bolts, bracket to engine block..... must replace
1 - serpentine belt....depends on condition and miles
1- serpentine belt tensioner....inspect it, failures are common at high miles
1 - front crankshaft balance bolt.... must replace
1 - front crankshaft seal.... must replace
1 - timing cover gasket..... must replace
*1gal - Dexcool concentrate coolant
or
*2 - 50/50 pre-mix Dexcool coolant
5qt - engine oil
1 - oil filter
1 - catalytic converter to turbo clamp..... must replace... will likely break
1 - cat converter gasket, to turbocharger.... must replace
1 - cat converter to front pipe gasket.... must replace
1 - front pipe to muffler gasket..... must replace
3 - cat converter to front pipe nut... common to be rusted
2 - front pipe to muffler nut.....common to be rusted
1 - tube of sealant....AC Delco gray engine sealant.
1 - case of brake parts cleaner.....6 to 12 cans....get the non-chlorinated stuff or the smell will make you sick without ventilation
If you're also replacing the timing chain and components you'll need
1 - intake cam actuator gear
1 - exhaust cam actuator gear
2 - cam actuator gear bolt
1 - timing chain upper shoe
1 - timing chain fixed shoe
1 - timing chain tensioner shoe
1 - timing chain tensioner
1 - timing chain
1 - crankshaft sprocket
I did this job without the special tools, I used crescent wrenches on both cams and locked them down with vice grips and had no issues, the crank wont move, u just have to make sure the camshaft dont jump, I did it without any issues!!!
Excellent. I’ve done something like that on a lot of different engines without trouble. However if you loosen the camshaft gear bolt you will definitely need the tools.
Thank you Rick.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist most definitely, I watched your whole video before attempting it and u did great with explaining everything, great video, keep them coming.
@@rickt8325 thank you very much! Actually I have a couple uploading in a few minutes so be sure to check it out.
I finished the job yesterday and everything went smoothly! Thankfully I have the car running right now and nothing seems to be different, the only thing is that the check engine light came on and gave me a crankshaft code
Will this code go away after a few miles of driving? Like others typically do with censers
Good to hear. What code do you have?
I didn’t get the exact code, but it has to do with the timing, did you get a code?
@@BigDaddy-ih9de no I did not get any codes and the car is still driving on the road currently. You shouldn’t get any timing codes. Possible sensor left disconnected? Need to know what code you have.
Yea I think I might have, it’s the crankshaft positioning sensor I believe, I’ll stop by an auto shop later today to get it read
You are professional
You are so smart
Thank for your sharing
Thank you very much!
I have the same car and the same problem
Hopefully, you are able to get it fixed
When you were sucking the coolant out around 19:25, that small bolt below the opening is a drain for that area.
Daaaaamn that’s what I get for skimming the service info. Good to know. I removed it by accident and said “that’s a plug for something” during the repair.
That being said I do normally prefer to suction the coolant out anyway because it keeps the coolant from making a mess elsewhere. Water and coolant can be a pain to clean up in a normally oily environment.
Thank you for the great comment Andrew.
Nice job My friend I work for GM 26 year
Thank you Mario!
Hi Mario, where you a GM mechanic?
If so, do you know what to lubricant the rear main seal with or are they PTFE and go in dry?
I put one in dry as there were no instructions in the repair manual, it failed.
Thanks
I haven't seen timing cover leaks on these. I have seen the check valve in intake goes bad causing high crankcase pressure blows out everywhere. Also to any one doing this job or even pulling valve cover.check.the upper to.omg guide bolts. Guarantee they are hand tight.
Thanks for sharing!
Hi, Just bought this car a week ago and it is spillin oil right from valve cover( hopefully, hopefully from there..and also a funny smell comes when the engine heated) what do you suggest? I just thought it was the valve cover gasket and ordered only gasket.
@@us3804 could be an oil leak from the valve cover.
That’s what mine is doing. Even after I fixed the check valve but it’s still leaking. Do you think just the crank seal is ruined or both and the new timing gasket?
@@haccoon5458 can u pls tell me what is omg guide bolts?
torque specs: Chevy Cruze Timing Cover Bolts Torque Specs (M6): 8 ft-lbs / Chevy Cruze Timing Cover Bolts Torque Specs (M10): 26 ft-lbs / This applies to all bolts on engine M6 in size.
Oil Drain Plug Torque Specs : 18 ft-lbs.
Exhaust Pipe Torque Specs : 15 ft-lbs
water pump pulley Torque Specs : 16 ft-lbs
Crankshaft Pulley Torque Specs : 74 ft-lbs + 75°
Belt Tensioner Torque Specs : 41 ft-lbs
Mount to Engine Torque Specs : 46 ft-lbs
A/C Compressor / Alternator Torque Specs : 18 ft-lbs
It is best when removing water pump to lay out the bolts on the ground according to position you are taking them out from as they are different lengths, if you have another pump put them into those corresponding holes and once the old one is off transfer them back into the old one in the right order. Cardboard is also good just make up a rough template.
Thanks for the video very good, did you put RTV on both sides of the oil pan?
Thank you for the comment Bob.
Yes, I put a thin film on the block side to keep residue from getting on the surfaces before I bolted it up.
Do you have the water pump and oil pan torque specs? Also on the crankshaft you have 74 ft/lbs +75°, what does the 75° mean?
Thanks
@@eclecticgentleman hello and thank you for commenting.
The water pump bolt torque spec is 71 lb/in……there are two of the bolts that must be replaced and tightened an additional 30 degrees.
The oil pan bolt torque spec is 89 lb/in
The additional 75 degrees on the crankshaft bolt, you tighten the bolt an additional 75 degrees of rotation AFTER you torque to the specification…..the reason for this is we pre load the bolt by tightening to specification and then we turn the bolt a specific amount further for the most accurate bolt loading/stretch as possible.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist you're awesome!!! I'm subscribing
@@eclecticgentleman thank you very much!
Saved me a lot of time mate. Excellent video.
Subscribed 👍🏻🇦🇺
Thanks!
That degreaser can has got to be huge! lol great video :)
Yep we have a 55gal drum on tap to refill our portable spray cans.
Thank you!
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist What kind of degreaser is it?
@jonathangaliano2617 brake cleaner
What brand is the degreaser?
I liked step by step on how to correctly do dis..wen i get brave nuff i will do it
Feel free to ask questions if needed.
Thanks.
The timing tools aren't a bad idea especially if it's your first time messing with engine timing but they aren't required if you're reusing the timing chain. You can use a paint marker to mark the chain and sprockets. On the exhaust cam I had to use a punch to hold it in place because the valve spring pressure kept making it jump out of time. Intake cam wasn't moving. Also it's a good idea to mark the crank pulley as that can inadvertently be installed 180 degrees out of time which will cause big issues. Good video you covered everything in detail so the diy can fix it right the first time
Thank you!
Great video! Can you supply the part numbers for the timing cover gasket and the front main seal? Also can you supply the torque specs for the timing chain tensioner and cover bolts as well as the crank pulley bolt? Thank you
I don’t have the part numbers or torque specifications handy at the moment.
Thanks.
What an excellent professional video. This is exactly how to apply liquid gasket to an oil pan. Most people use too much and smear the sealer all over the surface with their finger and wonder why it starts leaking again.
Have you had any experience with the rear main crankshaft oil seal,and if so, what is the best lubricant to use on installation? A bit of clean oil or a white lithium grease? I've done mine once 'dry' as the workshop manual didn't mention to use any lubrication and it failed. I thought it was maybe a PTFE seal, the fail tells me it probably wasn't. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. As I said the manual is no help and public option on the subject varies greatly.
Thanks.
Thank you for the comment Stephen. If it’s a lip seal with a spring I usually use chassis grease or oil to lubricate. If it’s a PTFE seal it must be installed dry or it will definitely leak.
Had the timing cover gasket replaced about 2, 2.5 years ago and its leaking again. I can see why its leaking again, they likely took shortcuts that you didn't. Also have another coolant leak as well. I'm not wanting to put another couple grand to get everything fixed. I think its time to sell my cruze and buy a more reliable car. Not sure if its a bad design on GM's part, subpar manufacturing, or just bad mechanics don't half repairs or both, but i'm done with my Cruze. I tried to support the American automotive industry but its costing me too much money in constant repairs. Been through a couple of turbos too. But i can see why they want a couple of grand. All the work thats involved, IF they actually did all the steps you did to keep it from leaking again.
Yes, sometimes people try and shortcut the job by not removing the oil pan or something crazy like that.
Shortcuts aren’t worth it… It always ends up leaking.
Cruzes are that bad you just have to find a gem that has been well maintained. And yeah, they do have some common leak points that need constant supervision.
I would probably go ahead and fix it because by doing the timing cover job you are also resealing just about everything on the engine that could leak oil except for the rear main maybe. Then turn around and sell the car if you really wanted to.
Thanks.
Great video man thank you my car is leaking by they oil filter housing have to check it out to see what it is
Thank you for the comment I appreciate it.
I just dealt with this on a friend's car this week. gasket between the oil filter housing and the oil cooler had failed (it was dripping down on the cat). Additionally, the o-ring on the turbocharger oil feed line was bad. Gasket kit for the oil cooler had everything I needed to replace gaskets/seals/o-rings on the oil cooler, turbo, and exhaust system parts I had to remove to access oil cooler. Good luck with the repair!
Here is a link I used when diagnosing/fixing mine. ua-cam.com/video/TsZd9MRjWlg/v-deo.html
ALSO: if you pull that turbo, be extremely careful with the oil return line (going into the pan). the plastic gets brittle with age and I broke mine. Clamp holding turbo to cat also was rusted through.
I always order a new oil return pipe and oil feed pipe when I remove one of these turbos. The feed pipe is often clogged with sludge, and the return pipe often breaks.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist in fairness, I was warned that, but hope springs eternal and I thought, "$40! pffft I'll just be careful." That's what I get for not listening to more experienced wrenchers
Been there lol
Question I noticed the block had sealant right before you installed the oil pan, I might have missed when the sealant was applied. Do I add. Sealant to the block or is that sealant on block front the sealant on oil pan? Your video showed me why I have oil leaking. I didn’t add sealant behind the timing cover gasket and I rubbed oil on the crankshaft seal, all bad. I’m going to have to redo it for sure. Thanks for the video
It’s optional. I put a light film on the block side before installing because the oil kept running down and getting on the surface.
Thanks.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialistthat’s good enough for me. Thanks for responding. I’ll be doing this once again, but thanks to your video it will be done correctly this time.
I have same problem , if you don’t mind How much cost that leaking repair to get fix
Thank you for commenting Aziz Siteli.
The cost will vary a lot, approximately $1000 would be a middle price for parts and labor to have this done.
You do a really good job ac Delco stuff nice id have you work on mine if you are near nor California
Thank you!
Excellent job man, your video has perfect depth into a job like this. Really appreciate the help!! Want to ask what kind of degreaser are you using?
Thanks Winston I appreciate it.
We use Zep Brake Cleaner.
Phenomenal vide!!! I read all the comments so I wouldn't ask questions you already answered. Iwant to give a thank you for replying...
I have a 2013 with 162,000 miles that I'm about to tackle. My 1st question can you post what all bolts need to be replaced with part numbers if you have them? 2nd can you post all the torque settings? 3rd do you recommend putting a new timing chain and alternator while I'm in there? Anything else you would replace while you're in there? ( I'm definitely doing the water pump) 4th and final question what torque wrench are you using? Thanks again I greatly appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us. Stay blessed
There are two timing cover bolts that pass through the water pump that must be replaced… 5564507 and 11099551
Three engine mount bolts that must be replaced… 11570514
Crankshaft balancer bolt must be replaced….0912942
The engine in this video had excellent maintenance history and was in excellent condition internally and the timing components showed minimal wear…..if you find a dirt engine inside or signs of wear I’d suggest replacing the timing chain, guides, and tensioner. Possible the cam actuator gears also depending on miles and condition.
I’d have to get back to you on the torque specs…..please feel free to comment back with additional questions. Thanks.
50 Liter Bremsenreiniger nach jedem Arbeitsgang....Respekt!
Need to keep it clean 😊. Thank you.
For once it seems someone maintained the engine well👍
Yes they did a really good job. It’s a manual transmission car too, so it sees a little bit more severe usage. Still running strong and no leaks.
Thank you.
Timing Chain Guide torque please and also the timing chain cover torque and thank you for the video is very good very professional
I don't have the specs handy at the moment. Some of the auto parts websites list the torque specs and the procedure.
Thanks.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist Thank you
@user-ph2uo8mh3m you are welcome.
Wow amazing talent you have. Great camera placement, you did that with surgical precision. Can the cam alignment tools be rented someplace?? Many thanks.
Thank you very much. You may be able to rent rent the tools from a local auto parts store if they have them… Kind of doubtful. If you have a good relationship with your local dealership, they may also loan you the tools… Again kind of doubtful.
The tools are also available online.
It’s been 7 months since I totaled out my cruze and im glad it’s gone you know how much money that car cost me they are money pits the check engine light was on every other day for literally no reason half the time coolant problems are the worst on those cars
Mine got totaled too and yes I had to constantly inspect for coolant leaks.
I do miss the 50mpg hwy on the highway though.
I can see the dealer bill now paper towels $10.00 degreaser 1,000.00 But really if you have this same leak ALL you need to change is the valve cover gasket, when the rubber is hard and cracked the oil flies around it like it's not even there and while it's running take out the oil dipstick put your finger over the hole and check for the much needed suction to make sure your PVC is working because without a working PVC oil leaks from everywhere.
Check out the couple spots in the video when I pulled the valve cover off and then pulled the timing cover gasket off… Rubber was very hard and cracked just like you said.
Thanks.
Great job!. Very helpful!.
Thank you very much!
You have hitchhiker thumbs..jealous. Has to make things easier. Now help me why my 1.4 has passed coolant measures at the shop but still I see it going to 230 and when hitting the throttle back down in idle to 200.
Hitchhiker thumbs… interesting lol.
These engines run at 220F-230F normally. The vehicle has an electric assisted thermostat and the ECM actually has a “desired coolant temperature” value that it will try it maintain.
At first I was concerned because most engines are overheating at 230F, but I have worked on and driven so many by now that I consider it normal because I have seen the data… that’s exactly what the computer wants.
Thanks.
The code I got was a p0016 code which I think has to do with the chain being put on incorrectly if I’m not mistaken. But the care sounds fine with no issues. Would I be able to notice if the timing was off?
It depends if the cam timing is off or the trigger wheel is off or both because on this engine neither is keyed to the shaft.
The most common mistake on this job is not having the crankshaft tool fully inserted during assembly.
Did you loosen the cam gear bolts at all?
Before that I had issue with missing drain valve inside the oil filter housing.
Yes, I have seen that also… That commonly happens during an oil change. Sometimes the little valve will stick to the old filter and somebody does not notice.
Once again, thank you.
How many hours did this take would be great to know? Also question if replacing both V Seloids do u have to grease them befote u install them and degrease one what grease would u suggest two will there be oil when u take them out for replacement and three im hoping u can just take them out and install without?
The whole job takes about 7 hours by the book.
The solenoids will leak oil when you remove them, but only a little. You can reinstall them with a light film of oil.
Thanks.
What do u think?
I also almost never replaced the solenoids unless they’re leaking from the inside.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist have a code p0011 coming up? Seems maybe I need an oil change or this just came up when I drive the car it goes away when stopped it come back on sportically
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist what oil donu suggest will coat them around the edges towards the bottom second) the two selonide wanting to replace both intake and outake doesnt matter where they get replaced?
Excellent video!
Thank you very much!
What does this kimd of repair cost in 2024? I think this is the problem on my son's 2015 Cruze LTZ. He had to drive it home 11hrs and about half way it started having smoke in the passenger side. It used about a quart of oil for the remaining 6hrs. Now there is oil all down the passenger side if the car as well as that side of the engine compartment.
Approximately $700-$1500 depending on what needs to be replaced.
Thanks.
Great Video Man! Perfect Lighting! I’m gonna do this tomorrow to my 2012 Cruze 1.4 I just have one question it’s been having this code since I bought it a year ago been running like that since it’s p0016 now that I will have the car opened could it be something with the timing chain ? I ready replaced the cam sensors and still showed same code. Thanks
Yes. If the engine is dirty inside when you take the valve cover off you may want to abort the job.
Otherwise if you think the engine is worth fixing go ahead and replace the timing chain and everything including the cam gears.
Thanks.
At the point in which you begin handling the oil pan, where are you supporting the left side of the engine at? I didn’t see anything on the hooks, so is it supported underneath somewhere else?
I gently rest the weight down on the other two mounts after removing the front mount bolts. Thanks for commenting.
Awesome video. For the engine mount, did you replace all the bolts? I was reading you should but don’t have to. Can you give me part numbers and torque specs for all engine mount bolts please.
Per the repair procedure there are a few bolts that must be replaced including the engine mount bolts.
11570514 Engine mount bracket bolt
Torque spec 37 lb/ft + 60 to 70 degrees
I've had to change the head gasket on my 2013 and now I have a huge oil leak about a year later. When you held the motor with a floor jack to remove the motor mount, what did you do when you removed the oil pan?
I let it hang from the other two mounts.
Thanks.
Great video. I have a 2015 Chevrolet Cruze 1LT manual Transmission that has the same leak. I have owned the car basically since new. Always been extremely good about maintenance, and only using OEM parts. This engine is not as bad as people make it out to be. It does not take well to lack of maintenance. I will need to do this procedure here in the near future. This information is very good, and the community appreciates your willingness to share your expert opinion with us.
I do have a question regarding the timing chain, guides, and tension-er. I have been made aware through various sources that the timing chain guide, and tension-er are known to fail with the 1.4L engine causing the engine to jump timing. Would you recommend the timing chain guides, and tension-er be replaced when performing this service to re seal the timing chain cover, and oil pan? What about replacement of the timing chain as well, as i have herd there known to stretch? If i opted to change the guides, tension-er, and timing chain as a preventive maintenance while performing this service, would I be required to change the timing gears as well do to the wear pattern from the original chain?
Your insights, and thoughts on this are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Andrew
If you take it apart and find wear on the plastic timing chain tensioner shoes then yes definitely replace everything. The plastic also gets brittle with age and heat cycling and can crumble and fall apart, the upper shoe is common for falling apart.
Whether you re-use the gears or not depends how badly they are worn, but if you do find wear in one component there is almost certain to be wear in the others also so its best to replace everything if you have the money especially if the engine has high miles.
I re-used everything in this engine because it was in excellent condition with very little wear and it was still running great over a year later when the car got totaled, also had no oil leaks.
Thanks. Feel free to ask additional questions if needed.
Question for you, how in the world are you supporting the engine during all of this? Every tutorial I've seen regarding timing cover, head gasket replacement, water pump replacement, etc, have all said to support the engine with a jack while the engine mount is off. Not only are you not, you're also UNDER it. Am I missing something, or is there another way of supporting the engine during all of this that I'm not seeing? I'd like to know because I'll be under it soon, lol.
I just gently lower the weight down onto the other two mounts which is holding it up.
The repair procedure wants you to install an engine hanger fixture… But this doesn’t make any sense because if you were to disassemble the engine any further and remove the cylinder head completely, you are also removing the mounting point for the engine hanger and leaving the block suspended anyway.
Thanks.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist Yeah that doesn't make much sense. I'm removing the head, timing cover, and oil pan. Like you said I won't have any harness points to use, but I'll try like you said, maybe take the head and timing cover off first to reduce weight, and only remove the two large bolts necessary that connect the cover to the oil pan, then lower it and remove the pan.
Wish I had a hoist. Appreciate your professionalism.
I have tried it and it doesn't seem to make a difference if you remove the head or not. Just lower the weight down gently.
If its going to be disassembled for more than a day I will suspend the block with a chain from the engine mount bolt holes in the body.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist Good advice. Thanks
I just got to the ac compressor on my 2016 cruze limited. The 3rd bolt that you said was hard to get to, I started to take it off and it let out pressurized air. Is that normal? I'm trying to figure out if I should keep going lol thank you
Sometimes that will happen, it always has a distinct burnt dog poo smell too lol.
Unless a mass amount of oil runs out the hole or something it’s probably not anything to worry about.
Thanks.
@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist thank you so much! I really appreciate it and I appreciate this video so much. You are saving me 1600 bucks!
@BenDover-wu6lu that’s awesome. That’s where I came from, we were always broke and couldn’t send our stuff to the shop. So I learnt.
Feel free to ask further questions if needed.
Great video! Am I missing the torque specs for putting everything back together?
Thank you very much! The torque specifications are in the service manual. This video is just a guide to supplement the manual.
Gotcha. Second question, do you have a parts list by chance for everything you placed? @DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist
Hi, thanks for this grate video. How much it will cost this job?
Approximately $700-$1500 depending on what needs to be replaced. Thank you for commenting.
Thank you for the excellent video
Thank you for the comment I appreciate it.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist I did follow and got fix my leaking issue. Thanks again
@@EOO-Stand excellent
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist did your leak return after a year? mine did uurrghhhh
@Historymaker431 no leaks after over a year except the cam solenoid that was already leaking up top, which I noted in the video.
It was a really small leak from the solenoid though and I finally decided it was coming from inside the solenoid rather than the seal.
The car ended up getting rear ended and totaled, a shame because it was running strong and the engine was beautifully clean inside…. Was starting to get a lower end knock though…. Lots of miles and hard stick shift driving.
I have the same problem I think so can anything go wrong installing the crankshaft kit
Once I lock it off using them tools can anything go wrong removing the chain and then reinstalling the chain
I assume it locks and isn't possible to move and when I reinstall, my car will be fine to start up
No garage will touch them round my way so if going by your video it all locks of with no movement during the process of changing the seal then I can do it myself
Garage said its a 7 hour job at £80 per hour without parts
I found the lock of kit for £20 on Ebay so will it be OK to do myself
Mine is in a astra gtc 1.4t but same engine a14net
You shouldn’t have a problem if you put it back together with the tools and make sure everything fits and aligns correctly before you remove the tools.
Thanks.
Do you remember the torque spec for the red and black timing components that guide the chain? Total of 3 bolts at 51:32 time, thank you!
15lb/ft on the left side tensioner shoe bolt.
71lb/in on the fixed shoe bolts.
Thank you very much! Enjoy your weekend!!
@@BigDaddy-ih9de you are welcome. You have a good weekend as well.
When you remove the oil pan is there nothing holding the engine? You mentioned have a jack down there, did you move the jack out?
There are three other mounts holding it up. Just lower it down gently.
Thanks.
So you RTV'd both the oil pan and the crankcase face for the oil pan re-installation? Is that normal? Also, what RTV do you recommend for that job? This video was phenomenal, I liked how much you prepped the surfaces over and over.
Thank you very much! Yes I applied a thin film of RTV to the block surface, it’s not part of the official procedure, but it helps keep any oil from getting on your prepped surface and covers you if your RTV bead wasn’t perfect. There is a fine line when using RTV, because you don’t want to use an excessive amount.
AC Delco gray RTV from the dealer seems to work well.
I have had great success with Permatex Ultra Black and Permatex The Right Stuff also.
Thanks for the comment!
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist That was a fast reply for a video from 5 months ago ;)
@@joshuaolsen8844 yep! All comments come directly to me and I do my best to respond to all of them!
There is no pre formed gaskets for pan and time covers? Thanks
@StevenAwsomeYoda not that I know of. The bolt holes for the transmission wouldn’t line up if you added a gasket though.
When you removed the engine mount, how did you support the engine while raised to remove oil pan or exhaust parts?
What sealant?
I used a block of wood on the oil pan when taking the weight off the engine mount and then gently lowered the weight down on to the other two mounts.
AC Delco gray engine RTV.
Thanks.
How much this work should cost? To have an idea they are no ripping me off😢 ty
$700-$1500 depends what needs to be replaced.
Thanks.
Nice video and details, was wondering did you support the engine weight by putting a floor jack on the trans case right
Thank you for commenting. I used a block of wood and a floor jack on the engine oil pan and then gently lower the weight onto the other two engine mounts when I remove the front mount and it works well.
What can cause a TMC to act up in 2014 Chevy Cruze ltz I blew a fuse and as I parked it n the next day I started it n it had traction steering wheel n stability mood on my dash
That depends which fuse blew and why it blew.
If the TCM is not communicating it will need to be diagnosed.
Thanks.
Great job
Thanks!
Thank you Sir 🙂🤝
Thank you!
Hello. How did you support the engine after removing engine mount? I see that you did not jack the angine from below on the oil pan.
I gently put the jack on the oil pan with a wooden block or a rubber block, and then gently lowered the weight down on the other two engine mounts after removing the front mount bolts.
Thanks.
I dont think i have all the tools. I have the time as i walk to work. But, how much does this usually cost to do especially as thoroughly as you've done it?
If you are doing it yourself, probably $500 or less.
Thanks.
How much torque you put on the timing chain tensioner bolts? Thanks
71lb/in on the two tensioner bolts. Thank you.
Hiya I’m currently doing the same job on my girlfriends car, I’m all the way to the point of the chains being off. And she’s just above 100k we were going to do head gaskets as well. Is it safe to remove the head once the chains are off? Thanks for anyone’s feedback.
Yes, after you set the timing in the proper position and remove the chain you can remove the head. As an extra pre caution I will turn the crankshaft just a little bit backwards to move the pistons down in the cylinder away from TDC.
Thanks.
Hey thank you! I appreciate and will update.
How did you hold the motor up with the timing cover off and the oil pan off gonna be doing this job at home so don’t have a engine hoist
I supported it with a jack and then lowered it gently on to the other two engine mounts before removing everything.
The car is a cruze 1.4t 2013
a14net engine
I have had 2 problems for 3 years,
And I can't find a solution,
I have already been to 10 different garages!
1 Odor problem - main problem
2 problem of high fuel consumption (1 to 6 in combined driving) - a secondary problem
I have some kind of chemical smell inside the car,
I can't define
(But it bothers me a lot, especially in the eyes)
Of course, this is not about mold, bacteria, etc.
The garages did not find the problem.
Most garages couldn't smell either,
It may be even more something that I feel I'm breathing, Utah than an absolute smell... for example very much reminds me of smoke
(no visible smoke)
The garages found no visible leaks.
The oil level is normal.
The entire period between treatments.
But I noticed that the smell increases every second drive,
I mean let's say I drove for fifteen minutes and the car was parked for about an hour, on the return trip the smell gets stronger,
Which could still indicate some kind of leakage.
I thought maybe the smell of smoke exhaust.
that it really reminds
I went to an exhaust center and they couldn't find anything.
But they didn't check the exhaust manifold,
Just the exhaust.
One of the times at the very beginning (3 years ago) they connected it to the computer, without having a fault light, but just an initiative,
Yes I got error p1101
which means maf,
but did not recommend replacing it,
nor did they clean it,
They did an infusion to the throttle,
Today when I connect a simple fault scanner that I have, p1101 no longer comes out nor any other error.
Recently I started to think it might be a coolant smell,
There are only 2 problems...
1 It is customary to say that it should smell sweet
And it's not really sweet.
2 There are no leaks inside the vehicle, f
Not under the rugs.
Sometimes once every six months or so, the liquid tank drops a little. And I add some coolant. But there is no situation where it falls below the minimum.
The air conditioning works fine by the way.
The car drives great.
And passed the annual test a few days ago smoothly.
There is another strange thing in the car that might help with the diagnosis,
When driving in reverse,
And only then,
I notice smoke coming from the exhaust (weird I know)
A kind of dust cloud
focuses on:
pcv valve
Egr
Exhaust manifold
Feed pipe to the turbo (because I don't see it)
crankshaft seal
Camshaft sensor
Leakage from water pump
or from the thermostat
canister
Which of the options makes more sense for it to start spreading a smell at the times I described?
.... driving there, parking for a long time, then driving back.
Really waiting to hear if you have a direction for a solution.
Thank you very much in advance anyway,
The odor you describe sounds like possible ozone due to electrical burning smell? Considering you’ve ruled out oil and coolant leaks.
Also possibly could be a minute exhaust leak. The intermittent P1101 and smoke in reverse is also concerning….could potentially have cracked hose that only leaks when the engine flexes under load. If the engine runs leans it can produce high Nox and and that can also cause the burning eyes/throat/nose feeling.
As far as the high fuel consumption that may also be related. You say you have a scan tool. What is the short and long term fuel trim data reading at idle? And also what is it reading during the smoking in reverse?
Thank you.
Check out related P1101 videos of mine here: INFAMOUS P1101 code… an easy fix this time….
ua-cam.com/video/1--v_UjpuKI/v-deo.html
Another P1101 Cruze easy fix. Scan tool diagnosis tips.
ua-cam.com/video/Pa2e_Hw2aeA/v-deo.html
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist
thank you for the answer,
The issue of liquidity is not completely ruled out.
This was mainly based on the observations of the garages.
And they didn't really rule out places where it's a little harder to notice the leak.
Regarding exhaust leakage,
Does it fit what I described?
that the smell starts after driving and then parking.
what pipes are leaking,
Just that the engine flexes under load?
Can you write me down which parameters to look at in my obd scanner?
What are the relevant parameters called?
The other options I listed,
Can they be ruled out?
thanks again!
@@avid3481 I kind of doubt it’s an exhaust leak due to the lack of trouble codes. Fuel trim data would help us determine vacuum leaks and exhaust leaks.
Your description of the problem sounds like burning electrical so I’d also check battery terminals at the battery and also at the alternator battery cable stud for being tight.
Monitor your short term fuel trim and long term fuel trim data at idle and also in reverse while the smoke is present. Thanks.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist
What should the short-term fuel cut and long-term fuel maintenance data be called? I don't remember coming across it.
@@avid3481 May be abbreviated to STFT and LTFT in your data list.
I'm about to do this in my garage. How did you hold the engine up without the mount and oil pan off?
I gently lowered it and let it hang from the other mounts.
Thanks.
You are doing an excellent job 👍
Thank you very much!
Do you drain all coolant before starting this, or just top off when complete?
All of the coolant gets drained out for this job. You can drain the coolant beforehand… I did it my own way by letting the coolant drain out when I unbolt the water pump.
Thanks.
My engine looks like this but the oil is mostly on the transmission side. Am I looking at a rear main or something else?
I don’t see very many rear main seals fail on these unless there is a clogged PCV system or other problem with the amount of crankcase pressure.
So likely you’ll need to reseal the timing cover and oil pan. You should degrease everything and run it and then see where the leak comes back.
Thanks.
@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist thanks for your response. I don't particularly have the time to be doing a large job on mine so I am probably going to end up taking it to a shop.
@jasonmurawski5877 let me know what fixed it. I’m sure it will help somebody in the same situation.
Today I found out I have probably the same leaks from passenger side near timing belt
Hope it’s not leaking too badly. Time to plan a repair.
Thank you again
I’m a bit confused as to where you safely secured the engine from the bottom when you took off the oil pan. Where did you find the secure points to hold the engine? And one last question is there anything else you disconnected from between the engine and the transmission before hoisting it up for the job? Thank you for your help!
You can gently rest the weight down on to the other two engine mounts after removing the front mount bolts. I used a block of wood and a floor jack on the bottom of the oil pan for raising and lowering.
Didn’t have to really disconnect very much, just don’t jack the engine up too high and you’ll be fine.
Thanks again.
This was my question as well, glad there was a response. I'm about to do this job in my driveway lol
@kennywicks8719 feel free to ask questions if needed.
This video is really well done, 2 years ago I replaced the head after an overheat. So I'm more familiar with the engine than I'd like to be ahah. But thank you, I will keep that in mind!
@@kennywicks8719 thank you very much and thank you for watching.
Im doing this job today, but one question do I really have to remove the oil pan to get that front cover off?
If you’re removing the front cover it would be very risky to not also remove and re-seal the oil pan. Thank you for commenting.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialistwhat if my oil pan was very recently (about 1 week ago) replaced because of stripped oil drain plug threads?
It should be removed again and re-sealed or it will likely leak. Thanks.
I did the labor without removing the oil pan, just when I reinstalled the cover I put some extra silicone in the corners where it meets with the oil pan and you should have any problem 👌🏻
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialistlol damn I figured but was hoping for a different answer
20:17 Any tips on getting that pulley off if I don't have any powered tools? I'm doing this job in my garage, and that pulley is the last thing I need to remove to get to the timing chain cover😅
You will need to hold the crankshaft from turning so the bolt can be loosened. If it’s a manual transmission you can put it in gear to hold the shaft from turning.
Thanks.
Got one question the harmonic balancer u didnt show the right way to put it back on
There is a spanner tool that is used along with the crankshaft locking pin to torque the front crankshaft bolt using a two handed counter holding motion.
The balancer gets installed dry with no lubrication on the front seal.
Thank you.
Any chance you wanna show us how you supported the engine when the noun was removed and oil pan as removed? Did you use an over head engine support bar?
I gently lower the weight on to the other two engine engine mounts. The support fixture when you install it per the service information instructions it gets in the way of the job… And then, if you were to further disassemble and remove the cylinder head, it leaves you with nothing to support the engine block anyway. I’ve done many this way with no ill effects.
Thank you.
How long did the job take, asking for myself
The job normally takes me about 6 to 7 hours working at a comfortable pace and I’ve done several of them so I just automatically know what to do.
This particular vehicle I got it all done in one day… Took extra time to set up camera angles, and all that.
I started the repair in the morning, and drove it home that night. It was a long day, but that was my ride home.
Then we drove the car for another almost two years or so… No leaks.
Car got rear ended and “totaled” by insurance.
Thanks.
Very good work my friend
Thank you Adolfo. I appreciate it.
Quick question before I start this project did you replace the crank seal if so is there a special tool to not damage seal during install and does it need to be lubricated before installed thank you
Yes I replaced the seal and it should not be lubricated.
You can use a socket or a block of wood to install it carefully. There is also a specific seal installation tool available.
Thanks.
I’m looking for the torque specs on the timing tensioner bolts left black is it 15 lb ft and the right red 71 inch lb?? Also could I set the torque wrench to 6ft pounds for the 71 inch pounds of should I go get the inch pound torque wrench? On the timing cover outside bolts 71inch pounds for small bolts 26 ft lbs for larger bolts crank bolt 111+60 degrees do these all seem correct also is there any other torque specs I need I am doing this project over the next few days thank you for your help I’ve been putting it off for a while now
@@adambutts3555 I don’t have the info in front of me right now, but I believe somebody else asked about that and the specs are in the comments somewhere.
yes those specs seems about right.
You’ll also need to torque the motor mount bolts carefully.
Thanks.
Is the engine being held just by the trans mount while you have it in the air?
Yes there are three other mounts holding it you just have to lower it gently.
Thanks.
I thought this was a timing cover gasket replacement not timing chain replacement?
Well, the timing chain has to come off and then be reinstalled in order to do the timing cover gasket so you kind of get both.
Thanks.
What does this job cost,my daughter's cruze is leaking in the same place?
$700-$1500 depending on your local rates and what parts need to be replaced.
Thanks.
You mentioned that the t 65 torx plug that you removed for the fixing pen had sealant on it, did you add sealant onto it when putting it back on?
Yes I did add a drop or two of sealant as a secondary measure. Be sure to clean the old sealant out of the threads too.
Thanks for commenting.
Awesome will do thank you!
My repair shop told me my 2017 ford fusion with 67k miles on it is leaking oil from the timing cover. Should I go ahead with the repair? I’m not too sold on it because the car only has 67k miles on it. I do live in a hot climate it gets very hot here in the summer, so that could be a factor to why it’s leaking. Any advice?
I would repair the leak before it ends up being a big stinking and smoking mess that attracts and sticks dirt to the engine.
Take care of problems with your vehicle immediately and it will always be in top condition.
Thanks.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist Ok thank you.
hi. why is the antifreeze yellow? in my Opel Meriva B(2011) with A14NEL(120hp) is red(G12)
There are a lot of different types of antifreeze and a lot of different colors that the manufacturers use.
This car should have had orange Dex-Cool antifreeze in it.
Yellow antifreeze is typically universal cheap antifreeze, but there are cars that have yellow from the factory…. Ford Gold antifreeze for example.
Thanks for commenting.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist that's why i've commented. Dex-cool is red/pink. At least in Europe...👍
@@adaniel69 I’ve noticed that from the factory the Dex-Cool is more pink and when you get it in the bottles to refill the car the Dex-Cool from the bottles is orange. I have no idea why.
Thanks.
I have a Cruze with the same exact problem. Would love to take it to you. What state are you in?
I appreciate that. I am not accepting work from UA-cam at this time.
Thanks for commenting.
Did you have an engine support on top to hold the engine up while you did that?.
I just gently lower the weight down onto the other two mounts which is holding it up.
The repair procedure wants you to install an engine hanger fixture… But this doesn’t make any sense because if you were to disassemble the engine any further and remove the cylinder head completely, you are also removing the mounting point for the engine hanger and leaving the block suspended anyway.
Thanks.
at 48:37 you had some sort of tool/key for your sealant tube squeeze/twist. Tat looks very handy. Do you have a part/tool number?
That tool came with the AC Delco sealant. I believe they are also available at auto parts stores and hardware stores.
Thanks.
The three tools you said to take off the timing chain, what are those and where do I get them?
I would probably get them as a kit from Amazon or FreedomRacing or something.
I don’t have the tool numbers handy at the moment, but it think I’ve already answered this question in the comments also so take a look real quick.
Thanks.
Wow! This video is perfect! It's every issue I have going on with my 2012 Chevy Cruze. I was wondering how much would it cost me if you did the same repairs for me and where is the location of your shop? Please let me know. Again, excellent video! Thanks!!!
Thank you very much!
The approximate cost would be $800-$1500 depending on what needs to be replaced. I am not currently taking work from online at the moment.
Thank you for the comment George.
Don't EVER use ANY power tool when removing the valve cover on a 1.4t...you WILL strip the threads in the head every single time.
I can’t say that I agree… Never had a problem.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist ask anyone who's worked on these cars for years and who are experts in the 1.4t community. HAND tools only, you are not saving any time using power tools and you have WAY less chance of stripping the threads because they are weak threads and they require very little torque, and installing them with a power tool will absolutely overtorque them.
@thagerdorn2009 still cannot say that I agree… Been working on them for years never had a problem.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist yeah so have I. Well over 1,000 between the sonic and Cruze and Trax and Encore...and I own two Cruze's currently. 95 percent of them have had to have the threads helicoiled from power tool use. It literally takes NO time to do it by hand, tighten and torque by hand.
Graet video .. what is the part# of the tool use for timing tool
Thank you very much!
EN-952 Fixing Pin
EN-953-A Fixing Tool
EN-49977-100 Fixation Sensor Discs
What did you use to spray down the oil pan and timing cover after you took them off and peeled the gaskets?
I used brake parts cleaner to degrease and clean parts.
I used Motorcraft silicone gasket remover to help soften the old sealant. It helps, but is optional.
Thank you.
I have a 2013 Cruze, 1.4. I found oil at the bottom of my spark plug well, the first plug closest to the timing belt. I can not figure out how it got there. Anyone knows?
Valve cover gasket is leaking
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist Thank you for replying. That means a lot!
You are welcome.
@@DadsGarageDiagnosticSpecialist Does the engine need to be held/jack supported through out the replacement process after removal of motor mount?
@hiendao3541 you can lower the engine after removing the mount
Ozone smell coming from my car(leaking valve cover) should i not use my car until repair?
It certainly needs to be checked out. Thanks again.
Hello, how did you remove the grease before the repair, greetings
I used brake parts cleaner to wash down the engine.
Thanks.